Drying oil for wood is a natural wood protection. We determine the consumption and how much drying oil dries on a tree - the correct application and comparison Drying oil: varieties and applications

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AvtoSaratov > Informative and entertaining section > Useful. Interesting. Informatively > Drying oil, processing of wooden surfaces

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Obi-Wan Kenobi

31.10.2011, 11:01

Treated with drying oil the inside garage doors. Reiki coniferous tree probably pine.

What is drying oil for: what does it give and how is it used correctly

Why does it take so long to dry? Maybe there are some conditions temperature regime, at which drying will proceed faster?
Drying oil produced in Voronezh.

Pinocchio

31.10.2011, 11:12

It seems to me, or does the second layer of drying oil always behave like this?

The first coat dried very quickly, about a day. The second layer has been drying for a couple of months) it is a little sticky to the touch.

Obi-Wan Kenobi

31.10.2011, 11:46

well, this is normal for the second layer of drying oil (((especially the room is rather humid. If the drying oil is based on fuz (a sediment of natural vegetable oils), then such drying oil will never dry, and neither varnish nor paint can paint over this disgrace. Drying oil based on fuse has a reddish color and a dark sediment. if it was natural drying oil would dry faster!

The room is not damp, moreover, it is heated.
Drying oil has a brownish color, the sediment is not visually determined.

31.10.2011, 14:19

All types of drying oils are used for impregnation and coating of wooden surfaces and various wood products.
The weather resistance of most drying oils is inferior to others available means surface protection, so the use of drying oils in their pure form (not as part of paints) for outdoor use is limited. There is currently no point in using natural drying oil, the most expensive of all drying oils, for outdoor work - the coating will have to be constantly updated, which is very expensive and impractical. It is also pointless to use natural drying oil for pre-coating surfaces for painting, since cheaper drying oils, oxol and alkyd, are better suited for this. Resistance to weathering is maximum for alkyd drying oils - coating with alkyd drying oil is approximately twice as long as any oil drying oil. In any case, it is better to use drying oil in outdoor work only as a preliminary coating for subsequent painting.
For internal works, in terms of usability and environmental friendliness, natural oil drying oil- it practically does not smell, the coating does not emit substances harmful to health, coating work is also not associated with harm to health. But because of the high cost of this drying oil, oxol (or alkyd drying oils) is more often used for interior work. Due to the odor of oxoli, work with it must be done in a well-ventilated area. Until it dries completely, the applied coating continues to emit white spirit vapors, which is why a characteristic smell remains in the room for up to several days.
Composite drying oils are usually toxic, and not only during the drying period - the surface covered with composite drying oils may continue to smell and release harmful substances for several years after coating. Therefore, composite drying oils can only be used for processing wooden and other porous surfaces during outdoor work, as well as in non-residential premises with good ventilation. They are not recommended for interior work in apartments and other residential premises. Surface treatment (http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%9E%D0%BB%D0%B8%D1%84%D0%B0)

Obi-Wan Kenobi

31.10.2011, 14:38

By the way, the drying oil, which I used, almost does not smell ...

Obi-Wan Kenobi

01.11.2011, 07:58

What do you think, and if you try to dry it with a hairdryer?
Will it dry out or, conversely, flow?

leak and get worse.

IMHO, drying oil is hopelessly outdated ... +100. Yes, and from the same drying oil there is only one name left, the one that is now being sold, just dilute the minium)))

Obi-Wan Kenobi

02.11.2011, 12:31

leak and get worse.

It was necessary to cover with something with a wax content. IMHO drying oil is hopelessly outdated ...

Recently turned on the heating, it became noticeably faster to dry. Sticky only where the layer was thicker)

Moreover, it is heated.

Obi-Wan Kenobi

07.11.2011, 14:32

so you said that the room was warm?)))

They would have turned it on right away))) the loss will be all good))

The room is initially dry and moderately warm) but warmer with heating))

Obi-Wan Kenobi

07.11.2011, 14:33

Something drying oil about 15 years ago - sticky)))

impregnated chipboard on the floors with drying oil, axol mine, quickly drying, in two layers, both dried up in a moment)

Well, who's lucky)

But already much less!

07.11.2011, 15:45

The first coat dried very quickly, about a day. The second layer has been drying for a couple of months) it is a little sticky to the touch.
Why does it take so long to dry?

07.11.2011, 15:47

What do you think, and if you try to dry it with a hairdryer?
bugaga…

07.11.2011, 15:49

Well, who's lucky)
nope. depends on the degree of dilution and diluent-solvent.

Obi-Wan Kenobi

08.11.2011, 09:41

😆 drying oil is generally from a series of fig-drying ...
The first layer did not dry out, but was absorbed.

But why the second layer, I can hardly understand. after all, as if varnish would be more appropriate.
on the second layer (I really don’t know why it is needed), the drying oil must be liquefied almost to the state of water and covered with the thinnest layer. when the diluent evaporates, "drying" occurs.

Well, I didn't know)
On the this moment almost everything dried up, well, or absorbed))

Obi-Wan Kenobi

02.05.2012, 14:32

Close topic.

Michael, are you dry? 🙂

Obi-Wan Kenobi

02.05.2012, 14:54

Michael, are you dry? 🙂

Yeah :)
Here I climbed on my created topics and saw this junk)

Is it necessary to dry fiberboard if it acts as a substrate?

It was necessary to level the floors, but there was no way to make a screed.

How long does drying oil dry or when can work be continued?

We decided to put fiberboard. Does it need to be pre-coated with linseed oil?

Of course, fiberboard is not the material that is placed on the floor and even as a substrate.

Fiberboard does not like moisture very much.

If possible, it is better to lay plywood, plywood should be no thinner than two centimeters.

As for drying oil, it is better to oil it, of course, and on both sides, if on one side, then fiberboard can be unscrewed.

Before laying on the floor, give time to "cure", do not immediately nail the fiberboard to the floor.

If the room is damp, for example, the kitchen, then the drying oil will not save the fiberboard.

Also, as an option, you can use paint instead of drying oil, dilute it with a solvent and paint the fiberboard on both sides, this paint will protect the fiberboard from moisture, the quality of the painting is in second place, it is important that it be (although the paint will go away quite a lot, the surface is porous) .

Drying oil dries for a long time, when drying, the temperature is preferably not lower than +20 degrees.

And finally, in order to qualitatively proliferate the fiberboard, heat the drying oil before applying it to the sheet, you need to heat it to a temperature of fifty degrees.

It is advisable to cover the fiberboard with two layers of drying oil, before applying the second layer, it is necessary to allow the first one to dry completely.

Naturally, two layers are applied to both sides of the fiberboard sheet.

When you put the fiberboard on the floor, leave a small gap for expansion.

Be sure to cover the fiberboard with drying oil on all sides, both the bottom and top part, and carefully process the ends, even in several layers!

The reasons for this are as follows:

In any room there is its own humidity, which varies throughout the year depending on weather conditions, and fiberboard is subject to the accumulation of moisture, unless of course it is a special fiberboard that has been treated against water ...
Everyone cleans the floors, someone with washing vacuum cleaners, and someone in the old fashioned way with a rag on a mop, and during washing, moisture can get on the fiberboard substrate and soak into it ...
Also, no one is immune from the flood when a large number of water might get under the floor...

Well, if water gets under the floor and the fiberboard absorbs it, then the following consequences are possible:

decay
swelling
destruction

Which will later lead to the fact that it will be necessary to change the substrate, i.e. to repair...

How to dry drying oil?

He applied drying oil to the surface of a metal barrel. The barrel has been in a warm (+15 degrees) garage for a week now and smells very strongly. How can you dry it faster?

Drying oil: varieties and applications

Maybe there is a way to meet the day? If not, is it possible to dry it outside (now the temperature is about 0)?

I don’t want to upset you, but there is very little chance that the drying oil will dry out.

If there is a strong and not pleasant smell, then it is most likely Ansol drying oil, it is not even drying oil, but its artificial substitute, there is no oil vegetation in its composition at all, only oil products.

True, "Ansol" dries very quickly, a maximum of a day, which means you have two in one matched and drying oil is not drying oil, and even stitched.

The first option is to try to dry it with a building hair dryer (the usual one will not work), direct the stream of hot air as if casually, so that the stream of hot air would “enclose” your barrel.

If nothing helped, then there are no options to dry at all, the drying oil should simply be removed from the surface.

You can remove drying oil with gasoline, you can use White Spirit, and also better solvent for oil paints "Solvent".

The procedure is not complicated, moisten a large rag with the means listed above (one of them, of course), then take a break for forty minutes, then repeat the procedure, thus very quickly remove the drying oil from the barrel (you write about the whole day of work, that's enough several hours).

The drying time of drying oil is short, regardless of what it is made on. Usually it is 24-30 hours after applying to the surface, after drying, it shines, becomes glossy, while the temperature is required at 20 degrees Celsius.

If a drying oil expired, it has an unpleasant pungent odor, when applied it is sticky, viscous, does not dry out.

Your metal barrel dries for a week at a temperature of 15 degrees, while it stinks strongly, therefore the drying oil is old, it is pointless to wait for drying, the surface will only become more and more sticky, the smell does not disappear even after a long time.

When working with wood and many other porous surfaces, one of the most commonly used materials is drying oil. We apply it as a primer, or for other reasons. But those of you who have come across this product at least a few times know that it has long time drying, and that work cannot be continued until this very drying is not complete.

Overheated and oxidized in a special way vegetable oil acts as the basis for the olive. At the same time, various desiccants, solvents and other components characteristic of paint and varnish products.

The main task of drying oil is to form on the surface of wood protective layer to prevent the penetration of moisture, mold, fungus, rot and insects. Finally, this material is used as a primer, allowing the paint to lie more evenly and efficiently, as well as reducing the consumption of this very paint.

Do not forget that the wood covered with linseed oil is very beautiful, so this paintwork also used for decorative purposes.

Drying oil types

The drying time of drying oil on a wooden surface or chipboard depends on the type of product. There are four options on the market today:

natural;
Semi-natural;
Synthetic;
Combined.

Natural drying oil, unlike its synthetic counterparts, is not flammable, since it contains almost no solvents. At the same time, its drying time depends on the type of oil. The product dries in linseed and hemp oil for 24 hours, but sunflower oil will still be sticky at this point

Semi-natural drying oil contains approximately 45 percent solvents. Like natural, it is used not only for coating wood, but also for diluting paint and varnish products. However, the semi-natural option is not used for flooring. Drying time is approximately 24 hours.

Synthetic drying oil is the cheapest. It is obtained by oxidizing shale oil, followed by dissolution in xyol. Unlike all the others, it is not used for the treatment of household surfaces. Requires room ventilation. The scope of its application includes the primer of concrete, metal, dilution of paint and varnish products, the preparation of plaster and mastic. Drying time usually over 24 hours

The combined drying oil dries for about a day. Obtained by polymerization and dehydration of oils. It is not used for coating surfaces - it is used in the manufacture of paint.

How to speed up the drying process of drying oil on a wooden surface or chipboard

Unlike paint, which dries after the solvent evaporates, drying oil dries in the process of oxidation, that is, by binding to oxygen.

Many people ask what to do if the drying oil does not dry out. In fact, you almost always have to wait, and there are not many ways to speed up the process. One of them is the use of a heat gun. The thing is that the process of drying drying oil is accelerated under conditions elevated temperature and low humidity. And the fan heater just does the job very well. By the way, it was previously practiced to apply drying oil hot just to increase the drying speed.

Another way is to use a desiccant. Red lead is ideal. Read the instructions carefully before use.

How to know that drying oil is completely dry, and what to do if it does not dry

The main sign that given material completely dry - no stickiness. However, in some cases, the drying of drying oil does not occur even in 10 days. Most likely due to marriage. It is not worth waiting for such drying oil to dry out - it is better to clean it from the surface. One way to do this is with white spirit. However, if the material is deeply absorbed into the wood, a planer may be required.

In construction during various painting works various types of drying oil are used as a binder for the preparation of oil coloring compositions.

Drying oil is used to obtain oil painting compositions, in the manufacture of various primers and putty. Drying oil is obtained from drying vegetable oils (walnut oil, linseed oil, tung oil and others), as well as from non-drying (castor oil) or semi-drying oils (sunflower), fats and organic products that do not contain varnish resins.

Photo-1. natural drying oil

Natural linen drying oil

1. Natural linseed drying oil (GOST 7931-76 *) is a light and transparent oily liquid. Made from linseed oil with the addition of a desiccant, which is also made on the basis of linseed oil. Natural drying oil is made of two types:

oxidized and polymerized with a wide density range from 0.936 to 0.950 g/cm3.

The drying time of drying oil at a temperature of 20 degrees is not more than a day. Drying oil is used when priming wooden, metal and plastered prepared surfaces. It is also widely used in the manufacture of oil paint compositions for the preparation of putties, putties, and various light, thickly ground paints.

Drying oil can be used when carrying out painting work during interior spaces, for painting building facades, for protection metal structures against corrosion as a binder for oil paints.

2. Natural hemp drying oil (GOST 7931-76 *) is a dark oily and transparent liquid. Made from desiccant and hemp oil.

Hemp drying oil is produced only oxidized, its density is 0.94 g / cm3, the drying time is no more than a day at an outside temperature of 20 degrees. Used for priming various wooden, metal and concrete surfaces.

It can also be used in the dilution and preparation of dark oil paints, fillers, putties, greases, as well as in the manufacture of high-quality paint compositions for doors, window frames, floors, roofs and other building products.

Drying oil is divided into four types:

1. Semi-natural (compacted).

2. Natural.

3. Synthetic.

4. Combined.

Photo-2. Drying oil oksol

Drying oil oksol

Semi-natural drying oil-oxol is a solution of oxidized vegetable oil and desiccants in white spirit (up to 45 percent). Drying oil-oxol is available in several brands:

Grade B is made from linseed oil, Grade SM is made from a mixture of linseed, hemp and sunflower oils. Brand PV-made on the basis of soybean oil, sunflower, corn and other types of oils. The drying time when applied in an even layer on the base is approximately the same for all brands and is about a day, provided that the outside temperature is 20 degrees Celsius.

Drying oil grade B is used in the manufacture of oil paints of various composition, which can be used for painting work both indoors and outdoors. Drying oil grades PV and SM are mainly used in the manufacture of various primers and fillers. It can also be used in the manufacture of oil paints used during interior work except for floors.

Photo-3. Combined drying oil

Combined drying oil

1. Combined drying oil (TU 10-1203-76) is a product of dehydration and polymerization of semi-drying and drying oils. The drying time of the combined drying oil is 24 hours. Such drying oil is used for the preparation of oil paints and painting compositions for interior work.

Photo-4. Alkyd pentaphthalic drying oil

Alkyd glyptal drying oil

2. Alkyd pentaphthalic drying oil is obtained by diluting pentaphthalic resin with white spirit and modifying it with vegetable oils. alkyd pentaphthalic drying oils dry within 24 hours. Used in construction for the same purposes as glyptal.

3. Alkyd glyphthalic drying oil is a transparent liquid that is obtained by mixing vegetable oils with glycerin, phthalic anhydrite, desiccants and white spirit in an amount of up to 50%.

Such drying oil is not inferior natural species drying oil It is widely used in the manufacture of thick and ready-to-use paints for interior and exterior use. Such paints can be applied to wood, metal and concrete prepared surfaces.

4. Synthetic drying oils. Shale drying oil is a dark liquid with a pungent and unpleasant odor. It is a product of the oxidation of shale oils dissolved in xyol.

Drying oil is weather resistant and dries in 24 hours. It is used for dilution of paints and for the preparation of dark colors used for painting internal metal, plastered and wooden surfaces, as well as for painting external surfaces. Not for use on floors and various items household purpose.

Photo-5. Drying oil -ethinol

Drying oil-ethinol

5. Drying oil - ethinol is a varnish etinol and is a clear and light liquid with a pungent odor. It is made from various waste products from the production of chloroprene rubber. It forms a shiny, acid-resistant and alkali-resistant film, which is very durable. Drying oil - ethinol is added in an amount of up to 15 percent to other types of drying oils used in the manufacture of primers and paints for metal coatings.

How to dry drying oil?

He applied drying oil to the surface of a metal barrel. The barrel has been in a warm (+15 degrees) garage for a week now and smells very strongly.

Lecture 4

How can you dry it faster? Maybe there is a way to meet the day? If not, is it possible to dry it outside (now the temperature is about 0)?

I don’t want to upset you, but there is very little chance that the drying oil will dry out.

True, "Ansol" dries very quickly, a maximum of a day, which means you have two in one matched and drying oil is not drying oil, and even stitched.

If nothing helped, then there are no options to dry at all, the drying oil should simply be removed from the surface.

You can remove drying oil with gasoline, you can use White Spirit, and even better with a solvent for oil paints "Solvent".

If a drying oil expired, it has an unpleasant pungent odor, when applied it is sticky, viscous, does not dry out.

How to speed up the drying of drying oil on the surface of a tree?

natural drying oil

(GOST 7931-76) 97% consists of natural vegetable oil (most often linseed, less often sunflower), the remaining 3% is a desiccant (a substance that promotes fast drying). Natural drying oil is used to dilute thickly grated paints and to impregnate wooden surfaces indoors. Experts do not recommend using natural drying oil for outdoor work - it is expensive and impractical.

Oxol based on linseed oil is considered the best, because after drying it forms a hard, waterproof and elastic film and does not blacken for a long time. Oxol is intended mainly for processing wooden and plastered surfaces indoors. Applied to a plastered surface, oxol improves the adhesion of oil, alkyd, dispersion paints and putty. Oksol can also be used for outdoor work, but it should be remembered that this material serves only for temporary preservation of the surface, so it must be painted, painted, varnished or enameled.

If you need cheaper oxol, you can buy its “sunflower” version, which can be used when processing wooden and plastered surfaces indoors, and outside you can process only those surfaces that are under a canopy or roof to protect against water ingress, and even better - paint over with a layer oil paint to keep the wood from rotting.

The cheapest and most odorous composite drying oils, they do not have a GOST number that would strictly regulate their composition, but they are produced according to technical specifications (TU). The composition of the combined drying oils includes chemical components replacing natural resins, petroleum resins and other petrochemical by-products. It is better not to use composite drying oils for treating wall surfaces either in the apartment or on the balcony. They are toxic and harmful, and even after drying, they continue to smell for several years.

Therefore, when buying composite drying oils, be careful!

If drying oil is based on fuz (a sediment of natural vegetable oils), such drying oil will never dry, and neither varnish nor paint will be able to paint over this disgrace. Drying oil based on fuse has a reddish color and a dark sediment.

If you treat the surface with drying oil made on the basis of an osprey (a substance consisting of petroleum polymer resins), then it will either never dry out or begin to crumble. This drying oil is the most liquid, light and the cheapest of all existing varieties.

When choosing and buying drying oil, you should:

- if the packaging allows, pay attention to the transparency of its contents. Natural drying oil should have a dark brown tint. And the more transparent the liquid, the more likely it is that you have a composite drying oil, and most likely a fake;

- “carefully study the composition of the product indicated on the label, and the label itself, which should contain information about the manufacturer (name, coordinates), GOST or TU number, product composition, instructions for use;

- “to check the availability of a certificate of conformity for natural drying oil and oxol, hygienic - for composite drying oil. High-quality drying oil should be homogeneous in composition - without mechanical inclusions and without sediment; the weaker the smell of drying oil, the better.

AvtoSaratov > Informative and entertaining section > Useful. Interesting. Informatively > Drying oil, processing of wooden surfaces

View Full Version: Drying oil, wood surface treatment

Obi-Wan Kenobi

31.10.2011, 11:01

Treated with drying oil the inside of the garage door.

Drying oil: what is it, composition and properties

Reiki of coniferous wood, probably pine. The first coat dried very quickly, about a day. The second layer has been drying for a couple of months) it is a little sticky to the touch.
Why does it take so long to dry? Maybe there are some temperature conditions under which drying will proceed faster?
Drying oil produced in Voronezh.

Pinocchio

31.10.2011, 11:12

It seems to me, or does the second layer of drying oil always behave like this?

The first coat dried very quickly, about a day. The second layer has been drying for a couple of months) it is a little sticky to the touch.
well, this is normal for the second layer of drying oil (((especially the room is rather humid. If the drying oil is based on a fuz (a sediment of natural vegetable oils), then such drying oil will never dry, and neither varnish nor paint can paint over this disgrace.

Drying oil based on fuse has a reddish color and a dark sediment. if there was a natural drying oil, it would dry faster !!!

Obi-Wan Kenobi

31.10.2011, 11:46

well, this is normal for the second layer of drying oil (((especially the room is rather damp. If the base of the drying oil is fuz (a sediment of natural vegetable oils), then such drying oil will never dry, and neither varnish nor paint will be able to paint over this disgrace. Drying oil on fuse base has a reddish color and a dark sediment.if there was a natural drying oil, it would dry faster!!!

The room is not damp, moreover, it is heated.
Drying oil has a brownish color, the sediment is not visually determined.

31.10.2011, 14:19

All types of drying oils are used for impregnation and coating of wooden surfaces and various wood products.
The resistance of most drying oils to weathering is inferior to other available surface protection products, so the use of drying oils in their pure form (not in paints) for outdoor use is limited. There is currently no point in using natural drying oil, the most expensive of all drying oils, for outdoor work - the coating will have to be constantly updated, which is very expensive and impractical. It is also pointless to use natural drying oil for pre-coating surfaces for painting, since cheaper drying oils, oxol and alkyd, are better suited for this. Resistance to weathering is maximum for alkyd drying oils - coating with alkyd drying oil is approximately twice as long as any oil drying oil. In any case, it is better to use drying oil in outdoor work only as a preliminary coating for subsequent painting.
For interior work, from the point of view of ease of use and environmental friendliness, natural oil drying oil has an advantage - it practically does not smell, the coating does not emit substances harmful to health, coating work is also not associated with harm to health. But because of the high cost of this drying oil, oxol (or alkyd drying oils) is more often used for interior work. Due to the odor of oxoli, work with it must be done in a well-ventilated area. Until it dries completely, the applied coating continues to emit white spirit vapors, which is why a characteristic smell remains in the room for up to several days.
Composite varnishes are generally toxic, and not only during the drying period - a surface coated with composite varnish can continue to smell and release harmful substances for several years after coating. Therefore, composite drying oils can only be used for processing wooden and other porous surfaces during outdoor work, as well as in non-residential premises with good ventilation. They are not recommended for interior work in apartments and other residential premises. Surface treatment (http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/%D0%9E%D0%BB%D0%B8%D1%84%D0%B0)

Finishing the premises often involves processing them with paints and varnishes. This is a common and convenient solution. But in order to correctly apply the same drying oil, it is required to thoroughly study the features of such a coating and its varieties.

What it is?

Wood is once again returning to the top of consumer preferences, while plastics and other synthetic materials are losing demand. But it is important to understand that wood needs professional high-quality processing, and drying oil allows you to cover the wooden base with a protective film, while providing high level sanitary safety. The main part of such compositions is formed by natural components (vegetable oils), and they account for at least 45% of the mass.

Application features

Drying oil was first mastered by artists several centuries ago. The production technique has changed quite a bit since then, but there are several key varieties of material that need to be applied in different ways.

Processing with a combined composition is practiced due to its great cheapness.(up to a third of the mixture falls on the solvent, mainly white spirit). The drying speed sharply increases, the reliability of the created layer is very high. These combinations are mainly used for exterior finish wooden surfaces from which bad smell vanishes quickly.

All drying oils, excluding natural compounds, contain substances prone to fire and even explosion, so they should be handled with the utmost care.

When covering wood, natural drying oil dries for a maximum of 24 hours (at a standard room temperature of 20 degrees). Hemp compounds have the same parameters. Based mixtures sunflower oil after a day, they still remain a little sticky. Combined materials more stable and guaranteed to dry in 1 day. For synthetic varieties, this is the minimum period, since their level of evaporation is less.

Often (especially after long-term storage) it becomes necessary to dilute the drying oil. Natural mixtures are preserved in the best condition, since vegetable oils are able to stay in a liquid consistency for a long time. Given the danger of such compounds, in order to dilute the thickened mixture, you need to thoroughly prepare.

For this you need:

choose a room with excellent ventilation;
work only away from open flames and heat sources;
use strictly tested compounds recommended by the manufacturer for a particular material.

When working with synthetic materials, as with mixtures of the unknown chemical composition, rubber gloves must be worn before dilution.

It is important to remember that in case of contact with the skin, certain substances can provoke chemical burns.

Most often, when diluting drying oils, they use:

White Spirit;
castor oil;
other industrial chemicals.

Usually the concentration of the added solvent in relation to the mass of drying oil is a maximum of 10% (unless otherwise provided by the instructions).

Experienced specialists and builders do not use drying oil that has been left in a hermetically sealed container for more than 12 months. Even with the preservation of the liquid phase, external transparency and the absence of a precipitate, the material is no longer suitable for work and represents a great danger.

With confidence in the quality protective coatings, which gave a precipitate, it is enough in most cases to filter the liquid through a metal sieve. Then small particles will not be on the surface of the wood, and it will not lose its smoothness. You can often hear statements that drying oil should not be bred at all, because it will not restore its characteristics anyway. But at least the fluidity and viscosity will improve, the penetrating ability will increase, and therefore it will be possible to cover with drying oil an area that does not require an increased quality of processing.

Stabilization of the tree with drying oil implies that the workpieces must be completely immersed in the liquid.

During operation, the quality is checked in stages, carrying out control weighings at least three times:

before impregnation;
after final impregnation;
after the end of the polymerization process.

To dry the polymer and make it harden faster, the bars are sometimes placed in the oven or boiled in boiling water. Window putty can be made on the basis of a mixture of drying oil with ground chalk (they are taken in 3 and 8 parts, respectively). The readiness of the mass is evaluated by how homogeneous it is. It must be pulled, and at the same time the resulting tape should not be torn.

Types: how to choose?

Regardless of the abundance of manufacturers, production methods are about the same, at least in relation to natural formulations. Vegetable oil is taken, heat treatment is carried out, and at the end of filtration, desiccants are introduced. GOST 7931 - 76, according to which such material is produced, is considered obsolete, but others normative documents no.

The composition of drying oil may include different types desiccant, primarily these are metals:

manganese;
cobalt;
lead;
iron;
strontium or lithium.

When getting acquainted with the chemical formulation, you need to focus on the concentration of the reagents. Cobalt-based driers are considered the safest by experts, the concentration of which should be 3-5% (lower values are useless, and large ones are already dangerous). At a higher concentration, the layer will polymerize extremely quickly even after drying, because the surface will darken and crack. For this reason, painters traditionally use varnishes and paints without the introduction of desiccants.

Drying oil grade K2 is intended strictly for internal finishing works, it is darker than the 3rd grade. The presence of such a substance increases the uniformity and uniformity of drying. To apply the material, you need a brush.

natural

This drying oil is the most environmentally friendly, it also contains a desiccant, but the concentration of such an additive is low.

Main specifications(properties) of natural drying oil are as follows:

the share of the desiccant is a maximum of 3.97%;
drying occurs at temperatures from 20 to 22 degrees;
final drying requires exactly one day;
composition density - 0.94 or 0.95 g per 1 cu. m.;
acidity is strictly normalized;
phosphorus compounds cannot be present in more than 0.015%.

Subsequent surface treatment with varnishes or paints is not possible. Wood completely retains its decorative parameters.

Oksol

Drying oil oxol is obtained with a large dilution of vegetable oils, such a combination of substances must comply with GOST 190-78. The composition must contain 55% natural ingredients, to which a solvent and a desiccant are added. Oksol, like combined drying oil, is not advisable to use indoors - solvents emit a strong unpleasant odor, sometimes remaining even after solidification.

The advantage of such a mixture is an affordable price. With the help of the composition, it is possible to dilute oil paints and varnishes, since their own protective properties material is not enough in practice. Among various kinds oxoli it is best to use formulations based on linseed oil, which form a stronger film and dry faster.

Oksol is divided into several types. So, the material marked with the letter B can only be used for outdoor work. The composition of the PV is needed when it is required to prepare a putty.

In the first case, linseed and hemp oil are needed to produce the mixture. Oxol of category B can be used to obtain oil paint or dilute thick paint. In the decoration of floors, such mixtures cannot be used.

Drying oil oksol brand PV is always made from technical camelina and grape oils. It also contains vegetable oils that cannot be used in food directly or by processing: safflower, soybean and unrefined corn. The raw material should not contain more than 0.3% of phosphorus compounds, they should be even less, depending on the method of counting. It is allowed to open metal packaging only with tools that do not produce sparks upon impact. It is forbidden to breed open fire where drying oil is stored and used, all lighting must be installed in an explosion-proof circuit.

Drying oil oksol can only be used:

outdoors;
in intensively ventilated rooms;
in rooms equipped with supply and exhaust ventilation facilities.

Alkyd drying oil

The alkyd variety of drying oil is at the same time very cheap, extremely durable and mechanically resistant. Such mixtures are needed where heavy rainfall constantly falls, there are temperature drops and solar radiation. For at least a few years, the surface of outdoor timber structures will remain in excellent condition. But alkyd compounds are allowed only as a means of pre-treatment, they are not effective enough in an autonomous form. It is not advisable to use them indoors due to the strong unpleasant odor.

Alkyd drying oil should be applied to wooden surfaces paint brushes, and they are cleaned in advance and monitored for dryness. Approximately 24 hours after the first layer, you need to put the next one, while the temperature is from 16 degrees and more.

Drying oil based on alkyd resins is divided into three main groups:

pentaphthalic;
glyphthalic;
xiphthalic.

Basically, such materials are supplied in transparent containers, occasionally in barrels. Approximately 20 hours after impregnation, the wood can be covered with a layer of paint.

Drying oil colors are determined by the iodometric scale method, like many others paintwork materials. The tone of hydroxycarboxylic acids and the type of vegetable oils used affect the color. The lightest tones can be obtained by using dehydrated castor oil. Where it flows electricity, dark areas are formed, they can also be caused by strong heating and the appearance of significant volumes of sludge.

With regard to the expiration date, currently valid state standards do not write it directly.

The longest drying oil storage time is 2 years (only in rooms that are maximally protected from negative external factors), and for 2 - 3 days you can leave it for open space. Toward the end of the expiration date, the material can be used, if not for protective purposes, then as an ignition agent.

Polymer

Polymer drying oil is a synthetic product obtained by the polymerization of petroleum products and diluted with a solvent. The smell of such material is very strong and unpleasant, under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, rapid decay occurs. Polymer drying oils dry quickly, give a strong film with a glossy sheen, but joinery is poorly impregnated with them. Since the formulation does not include any oils, the settling rate of the pigments is very high.

It is advisable to use polymer drying oils when diluting oil paint dark tones, intended for secondary painting work; be sure to intensively ventilate the room.

Combined

Combined drying oils differ little from partially natural ones, but they contain 70% oils, and about 30% of the mass are solvents. To obtain these substances, it is necessary to polymerize a drying or semi-drying oil and free it from water. The key area of use is the production of thickly grated paint, complete drying occurs in a maximum of a day. The concentration of non-volatile substances is at least 50%.

The use of combined drying oils sometimes gives better results. than using oxol, especially in terms of strength, durability, water resistance and weather resistance. Consideration should be given to the risk of thickening during prolonged storage due to chemical reactions between free fatty acids and mineral pigments.

Synthetic

All drying oils of the synthetic series are obtained by refining oil; GOST has not been developed for their production, there is only a series specifications. The color is usually lighter than that of natural formulations, and transparency also increases. Shale drying oils and ethinol give a strong unpleasant odor and dry for a very long time. Shale material is obtained by oxidizing oil of the same name in xylene. It is mainly used for dark tinting and diluting the paint to the desired consistency.

It is unacceptable to use synthetic impregnations for floor boards and other household items. Ethinol is lighter than shale material and is produced using waste from chloroprene rubber. The created film is very strong, dries quickly and outwardly shiny, it effectively resists alkalis and acids. But the level of its resistance to weathering is not high enough.

compositional

Composite drying oil is not just lighter than natural or oxol, but sometimes has a reddish tint. The cost of the material is always one of the lowest. But it is used only in extremely rare cases, paint and varnish production has not used such a substance for a long time.

Consumption

To ensure the minimum consumption of material per 1m2, it is necessary to choose oxol, especially since all combinations of this series dry faster than a natural mixture. Linen drying oil is consumed at 0.08 - 0.1 kg per 1 sq. m, that is, 1 liter of it can be placed on 10 - 12 square meters. m. Consumption by weight for plywood and concrete for each type of drying oil in a particular case is strictly individual. It is necessary to find out the relevant data in the instructions from the manufacturer and in the accompanying materials.

Drying time is reduced when choosing solutions with the addition of polymetallic desiccants. Natural linen material will dry in 20 hours in a mixture with lead, and if manganese is introduced, this period will decrease to 12 hours. When using a combination of both metals, it will be possible to reduce the waiting time to 8 hours. Even with the same type of desiccant great importance has the actual temperature.

Drying oil is a foaming agent made on the basis of vegetable oil and has undergone special treatment (long-term overheating at high temperature or oxidation). Also, desiccants and solvents are added to it, which are used in the manufacture of paints, varnishes, primers and putties. Drying oil is used as a primer for wood and other porous materials before painting, for the manufacture of putty compositions, and also as an independent decorative coating.

According to their classification, they are:

natural;
Semi-natural;
Combined;
Synthetic.

Depending on which class the drying oil belongs to, it has its own drying time. Knowing the drying time of drying oil of a particular class, you will be able to work with this material much better. So, if it does not dry sufficiently, and you start painting the object, the coating will not fit well and will begin to crack over time.

Note! All types of drying oil, except for natural, contain flammable solvents, which makes them explosive and flammable.

Natural and semi-natural drying oils

Natural drying oils are made by processing vegetable oils (linseed, sunflower, tung and others), which are in the process of drying. Such material in its composition has practically no solvents. Linseed natural drying oil is a clear, light and oily liquid that is made from linseed oil and a desiccant. It is used for the following purposes:

primer wooden, metal surfaces;
For dilution of putties, putties and paints;
For floor painting work window frames and doors.

Its drying time at a temperature of 20 degrees is no more than 24 hours. The same drying time is for hemp drying oil. It is a dark oily liquid. It is used for the same purposes as linen. Sunflower drying oil dries more slowly and is still slightly sticky after 24 hours. Its film is elastic, but strength, hardness and resistance to water are less than those of hemp and linen.

Semi-natural drying oils are the product of a strong heat treatment sunflower oil and driers containing 55% condensed oil and 45% volatile solvents. Them technical properties allow them to be used in combination with other materials in order to obtain a high-quality paint coating. The film has good gloss, high hardness and water-repellent effect.

Important! Semi-natural drying oils are not suitable for painting floors.

Combined and synthetic drying oils

The combined drying oil is a product of dehydration and polymerization of drying oils. Basically, they are used for the production of thick paints. Produced by brands K-2, K-3, K-4 and K-5. They dry within 24 hours.

Synthetic drying oil is a dark liquid produced by the oxidation of shale oil, which dissolves in xylene. It needs at least 24 hours to dry completely and is weather resistant. This is the cheapest drying oil, it is used for diluting dark paints and for minor painting work indoors. It can only be used in well ventilated areas. This drying oil does not dry as well as other types. It is weakly impregnated, and most of film remains on the surface.

Important! Not applicable to painting items domestic use and sexes.

Used for the following purposes:

Priming of concrete surfaces;
Preparation of putties and mastics;
Priming of metal surfaces indoors;
For wood impregnation in outdoor works;
For fixing and renewing old coatings.

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