Drying oil or "boiled oil" (as it was called in ancient times) is a liquid composition that forms a film, which is formed as a result of the processing of vegetable oils (by oxidation or prolonged heat treatment) or fatty alkyd resins, also called driers. Drying oil is used as a protective impregnation for various surfaces, as a primer before painting, as a base for different types of paint, and even acts as a coating for interior decoration.

Based on the components, drying oil is classified according to the following types:

1. natural;
2. semi-natural;
3. synthetic.

The most widespread at the moment are the following types: natural, oxol drying oil and combined. In addition, alkyd and even composite ones are often used.

According to GOST, the product in question must consist of at least 97% of natural vegetable oil (drying or semi-drying, as well as mixtures thereof, mainly flax oil, occasionally sunflower, soybean, hemp oil).

During production, oils are exposed to prolonged exposure to high temperatures (at least 300 ° C) for 12 hours, the next stage is the use of an air purge.

As a result, we get an oily opaque thick liquid consistency of a saturated brown, and sometimes greenish color with a slight smell of the base oil.

Linseed oil based on linseed oil looks like a light-colored liquid, transparent and oily.

Its main purpose is to perform the following tasks:

• priming of various surfaces: wood, metal or previously plastered;
• production and obtaining of the required consistency of light-colored thick-grated paint, putty, paste for greasing;
• as a paint composition of light color used indoors and outdoors for painting metal structures, window and door openings, flooring.

It will take no more than a day to dry completely at room temperature.

Linseed oil from hemp oil looks dark and due to this it is mainly in demand, just like drying oil from flax oil, but when you want to get dark tones. It dries similarly no more than a day.

The drying oil from sunflower oil dries much worse and for complete drying it will take much longer than a day. In addition, although the film turns out to be quite elastic, it loses to the drying oils discussed above. by such indicators as:

• hardness;
• strength;
• water resistance.

Table 1. Indicators of oil varnish.

Indicator name	Value for drying oil				Test Method
	natural		oxol	combined
	linen	hemp
	400	1600	800	800
	1	1	1	1	According to GOST 5481
	26-32	26-32	18-25	20-60	According to GOST 8420
	6	7	8	10	According to GOST 5476
	Full	Full	Full	Full	According to GOST 5472
	24	24	24	24	According to GOST 19007
7 Mass fraction of non-volatile substances,%	-	-	54,5-55,5	70 ± 2	According to GOST 17537 and 9.9 of this standard
	-	-	32	32	GOST 9287
9 Density at a temperature of (20 ± 2) ° С, g / cm 3	0,936-0,950	0,930-0,940	-	-	According to GOST 18995.1
10 Iodine number, mg of iodine per 100 g, not less	155	150	-	-	According to GOST 5475, section 2
11 Mass fraction of phosphorus-containing substances in terms of Р 2 O 5,%, no more	0,026	0,026	-	-	According to GOST 7824, section 2 and 9.13 of this standard
12 Mass fraction of unsaponifiable substances,%, no more	1	1	-		According to GOST 5479
13 Mass fraction of ash,%, no more	0,3	0,3	-	-	According to GOST 5474 and 9.15 of this standard
14 Resin acids	Absence		-	-	By 9.16
Note - It is allowed to use drying oil of the oxol type with other indicators of the mass fraction of non-volatile substances and conditional viscosity, provided that this brand of drying oil meets all the requirements of the standard for this group of drying oils.

Representatives of this species also received their second name "oxol", technologically they are also made from oils, but subjected to oxidation, with the addition of solvents and driers. At the same time, the percentage of oil is 55%, the solvent (white spirit is most often used) is at least 40%. Due to this composition, the liquid has a rather unpleasant and pungent odor, which can last for some time even after drying.

At cost, oxol is much more economically profitable than natural, but at the same time it practically does not differ in basic properties and is almost identical in appearance.

Oxol, made from flax oil, is most appreciated - the film of such a product is distinguished by its hardness, elasticity, water resistance and, which is remarkable, the greatest durability.

For even greater cost reduction, it is also produced from sunflower oil, but its film is much lower in characteristics than from flax oil.

Combined drying oil

This type of drying oil is almost identical to semi-natural, except for the percentage: the percentage of oil is about 70% and 30% remains for the solvent. They are obtained by polymerization and dehydration of drying and semi-drying oils. The main direction for using this product is the production of thick-grated paints. The brands K-2, 3, 4, 5 are industrially produced. The time of complete drying does not exceed a day.

Table 2. Indicators of combined drying oils.

Indicator name	Meaning	Test Method
1 Sludge,% (by volume), no more	1	According to GOST 5481, section 2
2 Nominal viscosity according to a VZ-246 type viscometer with a nozzle diameter of 4 mm at a temperature of (20 ± 0.5) ° С, s	15-50	According to GOST 8420
3 Acid number, mg KOH, no more	10	According to GOST 5476, GOST 23955, method A
4 Transparency after settling for 24 hours at a temperature of (20 ± 2) ° С	Full	According to GOST 5472
5 Drying time to degree 3 at a temperature of (20 ± 2) ° С, hours, no more	24	According to GOST 19007
6 Mass fraction of non-volatile substances,%, not less	50	According to GOST 17537
7 Flash point in a closed crucible, ° С, not less	32	According to GOST 9287

Alkyd drying oils

Thermochemical processing of semi-drying and non-drying oils gives the resulting alkyd drying oil a high drying ability. In addition, in terms of the totality of properties, it has a higher value in terms of hardness, durability, water resistance and weather resistance than oxol drying oils. Due to this, this type is considered as more promising, since it allows to reduce the costs of vegetable oil for production. The only drawback can be called thickening during storage, which is due to the fact that free fatty acids, a large number of which react with mineral pigments and insoluble metal soaps appear. This does not allow the product to be used for making thick-grated paint, but does not interfere with mass use for diluting them to the required consistency.

This type is currently considered the cheapest and this is what made it quite widely used. After all, the main component is not natural oil or resin, but their substitutes, most often a variety of products obtained during oil refining. The composition of such drying oils may be different, since they are produced not on the basis of GOST, but according to technical conditions. They also differ significantly in appearance - the color is often light, the transparency is much higher than that of compositions based on oil. Also, the disadvantages include a very pungent odor and a longer drying process. The most common representatives are oil shale oil and, of course, ethinol.

Oil shale oil looks like a darkish liquid, as it was noted, there is a pungent odor and is a derivative of the oxidation process of shale oil with further dissolution in xylene. Dries a little over a day. Differs in good resistance to weathering. The main direction of use is dark tinting, diluting paints to the required consistency, which are used mainly for outdoor work and sometimes indoors for painting surfaces of their metal, wood and covered with plaster. It is forbidden to use this drying oil for application to flooring materials and household items.

Linseed oil ethinol, on the contrary, looks like a transparent liquid of lightish tone, with the same specific smell and is produced from waste obtained in the manufacture of chloroprene rubber.

After application, the film dries quickly, shines, is very hard, resistant to alkali and acid, but, unfortunately, with low weather resistance.

Often this type is used as an additive to other drying oils, but not more than 15%. The main direction was the production of paints and primers for metal on its basis.

Table 3. Indicators of synthetic drying oils.

Indicator name	Meaning	Test Method
1 Color according to iodometric scale, mg I 2/100 cm 3, not darker	700	According to GOST 19266 and 9.3 of this standard
2 Sludge,% (by volume), no more	1	According to GOST 5481, section 2
3 Nominal viscosity according to a viscometer of the VZ-246 type with a nozzle diameter of 4 mm at a temperature of (20 ± 0.5) ° С, s	18-25	According to GOST 8420
4 Acid number, mg KOH, no more	12	According to GOST 5476
5 Transparency after settling for 24 hours at a temperature of (20 ± 2) ° С	Full	According to GOST 5472
6 Drying time to degree 3 at a temperature of (20 ± 2) ° С, h, no more	24	According to GOST 19007
7 Mass fraction of non-volatile substances,%, not less	50	According to GOST 17537
8 Flash point in a closed crucible, ° С, not less	32	According to GOST 9287

Application of drying oil

The order of work

1. Before starting work, it is required to clean and degrease the surface to be treated.
2. If a composition based on semi-natural drying oil is used in the work, then application is recommended only on a dry surface.
3. Using drying oil and paints and varnishes based on it, it is recommended to apply with a brush, roller or paint spray.

The average working consumption when using semi-natural drying oil is from 150 to 200 g. per cubic meter. As already noted, the drying time with natural drying will take no more than a day.

Storage of drying oil

Proceeding from the fact that the drying oil contains oil and solvents, it belongs to explosive and fire hazardous materials, therefore, in the room where the work is performed, it is required to provide natural ventilation or forced ventilation equipment in an explosion-proof design. In case of contact of the material on the skin surface of a person, it is required to wipe and rinse well with soapy water. When storing drying oil, it is required to ensure that the container is tightly closed and protected from moisture and sunlight, and is far from fires and electrical appliances. When thickening, it is allowed to dilute the drying oil with any solvent available to you, suitable for oil paints in a ratio of 1:10.

The choice of drying oil

Before you buy drying oil, you need to take a good look at what is in the container. First, it should be determined by the color, whether it corresponds to the declared type of product. In addition, you should carefully read the description of the components and check whether it complies with GOST if you buy a semi-natural or natural drying oil. They will have a certificate of conformity, and for a composite one - only hygienic. And in general, with the use of the latter, you should be careful, since it is toxic and it is important to note that it should not contain residues of oil (the so-called fuse) and osprey (oil refining residues), otherwise the drying process will become endless. And finally, it should be noted - carefully examine the liquid for homogeneity, sediment or mechanical particles should not be present.

As noted earlier, the main purpose of these products is the processing of various surfaces, they are also indispensable in the production of paints. If you stop at surface treatment, then drying oil is perfect for wood. It is used both for impregnation of products and walls in general. But for external work, it is recommended to apply drying oil only for preparation before further painting. And it would be more optimal to use oxol or alkyd drying oil. Natural is better suited for interior work (due to its environmental friendliness and lack of smell) and to obtain the required consistency of paints.

Almost all types are involved in the manufacture of paints. So, natural becomes the basis for thick grated, and alkyd is an excellent basis for oil. Only composite is not used due to poor quality.

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1. What is drying oil
2. Selection recommendations
3. We make drying oil ourselves
4. Storage

For a long time, to protect wood from negative influences: moisture, - oil impregnation was used - drying oil. The treated surfaces of wooden structures acquired stable protective properties. Today the building materials market offers a wide range of impregnations.

What is drying oil

A film-forming liquid agent is a product of thermal processing of vegetable oils with the use of additives. Drying oil can be called boiled butter. There are other types of impregnation made from artificial components.

With the advent of effective materials for protecting wooden structures outside houses and structures, drying oil began to be used only for covering the decoration of fences made of wood inside.

The principle of operation of oil impregnation

The mass of natural oil in an open space under the influence of warm sunlight and oxygen acquires a thick consistency. The substance applied in a thin layer begins to dry slowly, and as a result of polymerization, the coating turns into a high-density film. Drying is facilitated by polyunsaturated fatty linoleic and linolenic acids (glycerides).

Among the large number of vegetable oils, hemp oil also has the highest drying ability. Sunflower, poppy, nut, rape, castor and other raw materials almost do not thicken due to the low content of glycerides. They are not fully polymerized.

To significantly shorten the drying time, vegetable oils are heated by adding a desiccant (metal compound). As a result of heat treatment, chemical compounds that slow down the polymerization process are split into inert substances. With the help of this technology, wood is impregnated - drying oil. Various compounds applied in a thin layer to wood, or dries (from 6 to 36 hours), form a hard elastic coating. On average, the compositions dry out within a day.

The product impregnates the top layer of wood, creating a film with high adhesion... It is used for surface treatment before painting with oil compositions, which significantly reduces paint consumption. Processing is carried out before the subsequent coating of wooden surfaces with wax.

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Building materials factories fill the market with many types of impregnations with different characteristics. They are classified as:

• natural;
• semi-natural - oxol;
• combined;
• synthetic;
• alkyd and composite.

Natural

Natural drying oil is produced in accordance with GOST 7931-76. The product is obtained by thermal processing of natural hemp and linseed oils. The oil must not be diluted with solvents or other chemicals. The use of sunflower oil is excluded. A desiccant is added to the prepared mass - with manganese, cobalt or lead in a volume of 3% of the total mass of the material.

In industrial production, heated raw materials languish (+300 ˚C) in special tanks for 12 hours... The resulting mass is polymerized or standard impregnation. Sometimes the cooking process is accompanied by blowing air. This impregnation is called an oxidized or oxidized agent.

The impregnation looks like an oily translucent substance in different shades.... The liquid product has a faint sugary smell of vegetable oil. Linseed oil is much more transparent than its hemp counterpart. Therefore, its quality has been assigned the highest grade. All natural liquids are completely dry within 24 hours.

Semi-natural - oxol

Oxol contains natural oils or their mixtures (sunflower, soybean, corn, etc.), occupying up to 60% of the total volume. A prerequisite for the manufacture of oxol is the use of up to 40% of petroleum polymer resins mixed with desiccants. In the manufacture of semi-natural impregnation, it is allowed to use (GOST 190-78) oil driers containing manganese, cobalt, lead or their mixtures.

Oxol contains the following components in a% ratio:

• oils and resins - 55%;
• white spirit or turpentine - 40%;
• drier - 5%.

Unlike natural products, oxol has a pungent unpleasant odor that can persist for a long time. The advantage of the tool is its low price. The most high-quality drying oil is considered to be oxol from linseed oil. The impregnation is distinguished by its durability, increased elasticity, water resistance and hardness.

Combined

The combined formulations are similar in production to oxol. The difference lies in the proportions of the mixture of oils (70%) and solvents such as white spirit (30%).

The purpose of the impregnation is to protect, stain wood, dilute oil thickened paints. Liquid is applied to the plaster before oil painting. Dries completely in 24 hours.

Combined drying oils are produced in two grades: K-2 and K-3. Each comes in 2 varieties.

Means of the K-3 brand are used for surface treatment both inside premises and outside buildings and structures. They are used to cover street pillars and wooden buildings to protect them from atmospheric precipitation and the appearance of negative organic formations. Grade II K-3 is slightly darker than Grade 1, which is completely transparent.

K-2 does not have a pungent odor and gives wooden structures a noble fawn shade, which is used before coating surfaces with varnish. The impregnation does not withstand negative atmospheric phenomena, therefore it is used only indoors.

Synthetic

This type of drying oil contains inorganic substances. They are a product of oil refining. Popular synthetic impregnations are oil shale oil and Ansol artificial drying oil.

Shale impregnations are made from oil film-forming components... A special catalyst is added to the mixture, and then the mass is diluted with shale gasoline. The composition of such a tool contains:

• raw materials from diesel shale oil;
• shale gasoline;
• raw material from shale generator oil;
• solvent.

The manufacturer adds up to 20% natural vegetable oils to the impregnation. A modified drying oil is prepared by mixing all the ingredients, followed by heat treatment. Drying time is 24 hours.

Ansol is a fully synthetic product without the inclusion of vegetable oils. The impregnation is prepared from refined products. Oil-polymer drying oil is diluted with a solvent to bring it into a technical condition. Because of this, drying oil has a pungent unpleasant odor. To get rid of this faster, you need to ventilate the premises well. Over time, the treated surfaces stop emitting unpleasant odors.

The indisputable advantage of synthetic impregnation is a low price... Due to the intolerance of sunlight, Ansol is used only for interior work. The tool shows itself well at the end of the plastering work. Drying oil reliably impregnates the porous surface of the plaster and strengthens it before painting. If we compare the economic benefits of using different types of drying oil, then Ansol claims to be in first place.

The choice of the type of impregnation is influenced by several factors. This list can include the following items.

1. For the treatment of surfaces made of expensive wood species, impregnations made from linseed and hemp oil are used.
2. It is better to process the surfaces of enclosing wooden structures from the outside with oxol or combined compositions.
3. Synthetic fluids are suitable for coating wooden surfaces in non-residential premises. They process the wood of the roof support structures.
4. The Ansolliu treatment of large areas brings significant savings.
5. It is better to take drying oil in a transparent or translucent container. If a sediment is found, then it is better not to buy such a product.
6. The cost and type of solvents are of great importance. When using a spray gun, the impregnation is diluted with a solvent in a 1: 1 ratio.
7. When buying, it is better to contact a building supermarket, where you can get information about drying oil from professionals.

Cost - from 200 rubles per liter. In retail sale containers up to 10 liters are available.

We make drying oil ourselves

If you have a home workshop, you can cook drying oil yourself. Good quality drying oil is obtained from linseed oil. But if there is nowhere to take it, homemade impregnation is made from natural sunflower oil - this is a generally available and cheap raw material.

The impregnation preparation process includes three stages:

• preparation of the oil base;
• preparation of desiccant;
• final production of drying oil.

Preparation of the oil base

The container is half-filled with oil and placed on the stove. When the base is heated to 110–120 ˚C, water will evaporate and foam will begin to appear.

Then the foam will subside. Cooking is continued for 3-5 hours, increasing the heating temperature to 270 ˚C. If the edges of a pigeon feather are wrapped in oil, then the heating level is sufficient.

Preparation of desiccant

A drier is an auxiliary reagent that dramatically reduces the drying time of the drying oil. The substance is also added to oil paints.

You can make a desiccant like this:

1. 100 parts by weight of rosin is melted at a temperature of 150 ˚C in a separate container.
2. 5 parts of manganese peroxide are gradually added to the molten mass after the next settling of the foam.
3. The mixture is brought to 200 ˚C and incubated for 3 hours. The material should become transparent.

The final production of drying oil

A desiccant is carefully introduced into the oil base over low heat, observing the level of foam. After the final decay of the foam, the mixture is boiled for 5-10 minutes. Then the container is removed from the stove and the mixture is left to cool.

Storage

The storage conditions for the viscous impregnation are simple. Drying oil is stored in open areas for no more than 3 days... The impregnation must be kept in a closed container. In a warehouse, drying oil retains its qualities for about three years. If during this period a sediment appears at the bottom of the vessels, then the agent becomes suitable only for ignition. The temperature regime for storage of drying oil ranges from –40 to +40 ˚C.

The oils of natural origin included in the drying oil form a strong protective film on the surface of the tree, which significantly increases the service life of the wood. A special additive is always added to the drying oil - a drier, this allows to speed up the drying of the drying oil layer.

In its pure form, drying oil is needed for the primary processing of wooden structures. In addition, drying oil is present in most oil paints, whitewash and putties.

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Varieties

There are the following types of drying oil, differing in composition and scope:

1. Natural.
2. Semi-natural.
3. Combined.
4. Alkyd (synthetic).
5. Compositional drying oil.

Let's consider each type separately:

This variety is considered the most environmentally friendly and safe for health. The content of desiccant in such drying oil is relatively small, so the drying time of the layer will be slightly longer than that of other types of drying oil. The color of natural drying oil is light yellow, without impurities and turbid sediment at the bottom of the container.

Note: to speed up the drying process, manufacturers often add manganese, lead or cobalt as a desiccant. The presence of metals in the drying oil indicates that the drying time of one layer will be approximately 24 hours.

According to the current GOST, a quick-drying drying oil based on natural oil must meet the following technical characteristics:

• the ratio of oils and driers in the composition - 97% to 3%;
• lack of a sharp chemical odor;
• the drying time of high-quality drying oil at an ambient temperature of 20-22 degrees Celsius is approximately one day;
• the density of the finished product is 0.93 - 0.95 g / m. cub.;
• acidity number does not exceed 5 (mg / KOH);
• the content of phosphorus-containing elements should not exceed 0.015%.

It's important to know: The main advantage of such drying oil is its environmental friendliness and 100% protection of the processed product from moisture ingress.

Natural linseed oil is used for processing wooden bed frames, sofas, and kitchen furniture. The use of such a composition is possible without subsequent coating of surfaces with decorative paints or varnishes. Linseed oil impregnates the wood without reducing the decorative qualities of the product and dries relatively quickly.

1. Semi-natural drying oil (oxol)

Contains much less natural oils (55% of the total). The base is diluted with a solvent and a standard set of driers is added. The price of oxol is usually lower than that of its natural counterpart.

In hardware stores, you can find several brands of semi-natural drying oil:

• marking B means that drying oil can be used to add to paints and varnishes during outdoor painting work ;
• drying oil brand PV is needed for the manufacture of putties;
• the brand of varnish CM is used in the composition for finishing walls and ceilings.

Take a note: oxol is not suitable for the treatment of flooring, as the layer of such drying oil is quickly destroyed by constant mechanical stress.

In addition, semi-natural linseed oil, due to its high solvent content, has a pungent specific odor that is felt for a long time. The presence of a finishing layer is obligatory, otherwise the surface to be treated will very quickly become unusable.

This type of drying oil is produced by the method of oxidation of natural drying and semi-drying oils (cottonseed, linseed and castor oils). The percentage of oil and solvent is 70/30.

For finishing work, this type of drying oil is rarely used, more often it is used for the preparation of various oil paints. There are several brands of combined drying oils:

• K 2, K 4, K 12 - used for interior decoration;
• K 3 and K 5 are intended for outdoor use, they are used to process facades from and basement parts of building objects.

The most common are the combined drying oils of the K 3 and K 2 brands.... The first variety contains a solvent, a little desiccant and a mixture of drying oils.

It is a clear liquid with a slightly yellowish tint. One layer of such a coating dries within 24 hours. It is necessary to apply K 3 drying oil quickly, since the substance very soon forms a dense film, and it is not always possible to achieve an even coating .

It is best suited for impregnating small wooden parts, bringing oil paints to the required consistency, etc. The color of drying oil brand K 2 is darker, the purpose is painting walls and ceilings.

1. Synthetic drying oil

Advice: the fundamental difference between this type of drying oil is the use of synthetic substitutes for natural vegetable oils (most often petroleum products).

There are no GOST standards for substances of this type, therefore, the percentage of components in the composition of synthetic drying oil is regulated by the TU standards. As a rule, such drying oils are cheaper than natural and semi-natural analogues, but at the same time they do not have high protective and water-repellent properties.

The coating can quickly crack at sudden temperature changes or mechanical stress. In addition, polymer drying oils have a strong unpleasant odor, and their use indoors can lead to serious health problems. That is why such drying oil is used in the production of plaster and putty mixtures.

An exception can be called two types of compositions on a synthetic basis:

• drying oil pentaphthalic;
• glyphtal drying oil.

They are made by joint processing of natural oils and corresponding resins. Paints prepared with the addition of such drying oil, when applied to the surface to be treated, form a dense coating of uniform thickness, which in terms of strength is significantly superior to compositions based on natural and semi-natural drying oils.

1. Composite drying oils

This composition is a mixture of oxidized natural oil and gasoline with the addition of rosin varnish. The oil can be of one grade or several varieties. The addition of rapeseed, corn, mustard and cottonseed oils is used.

The most used variety is considered to be oil-rubber drying oil. This type of drying oil is produced in two brands, which differ from each other by the type of raw materials used:

• MK-1 is used for paints and varnishes based on rubber, is used for painting both indoors and outdoors;
• MK-2 is used as a primer during preparatory work before applying the finishing coat of paint.

Consumption of composition on wood

The following stages of application are distinguished:

1. Preparatory work. The surface must be cleaned of dust and degreased, then completely remove traces of moisture;
2. Application. For DIY processing, a brush with soft bristles is best suited; for large volumes of work, you may need a roller or spray gun. It is necessary to apply drying oil generously enough, otherwise the wood fibers will not be able to be completely saturated. For deeper impregnation, hot drying oil is used. Usually, 130 ml of drying oil is enough to treat one m2 of surface. The number of layers may vary, most often a 2 - 3 layer coating is sufficient;
3. Drying. The optimal conditions for quick drying of drying oil are considered to be an air temperature of 20 degrees Celsius and the absence of drafts. On average, wood impregnated with linseed oil dries completely after 24 hours.

Good to know: The residues of drying oil and used brushes must be disposed of, since these materials have a high degree of fire hazard. Keep drying oil residues away from electrical appliances and open flames.

Oil-based enamels and paints often have a too thick consistency, it is difficult to paint anything with such a composition. In this case, the paint must be diluted by adding the required amount of drying oil until the composition acquires the desired consistency. Among other things, this technique can significantly reduce paint consumption and save money.

Features of choice

Before you buy drying oil in a transparent container, you need to pay close attention to the color and consistency of the composition.

Depending on the variety, the shade of drying oil can vary from light yellow to dark brown. The presence of lumps and impurities is unacceptable.

The package must indicate the GOST or TU number, the manufacturer's contact information and composition, and the method of application. Natural drying oil must necessarily have a special certificate of conformity.

How to cover a tree with linseed oil and its water emulsion, see the following video:

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Drying oil - liquid film-forming compounds, which are products of processing of vegetable oils or fatty alkyd resins with the addition of desiccants to accelerate drying. The varnish is intended for the manufacture of thick-grated, ready-to-use oil, alkyd paints, as well as for diluting these paints and bringing them to working viscosity before use. Linseed oil has some uses for impregnation, priming of wooden surfaces before painting.

Making drying oil.

To improve the properties of drying oil, rosin, low molecular weight rubbers, and other additives are introduced into them, this explains their name - "composite".

Since vegetable oils are valuable food raw materials, and the properties of drying oil as film-forming agents are not so high, the main directions of development of the varnishes and paints industry envisage replacing drying oils with more advanced materials.

Making natural drying oil.

Natural linseed oil is produced by heat treatment (compaction) at a temperature of 270-280 ° C (with or without air blowing) of drying oils with the addition of desiccants.

For the manufacture of natural drying oil, linseed, hemp and other drying refined oils are used. Lead-manganese or manganese-lead-cobalt linoleates, as well as naphthenates, are usually used as driers for natural drying oil. Oil polymerization is carried out in stationary steel reactors equipped with fittings for the introduction of liquid desiccants.

Natural oxidized linseed oil is obtained by compaction of linseed, hemp or other drying oils by heating with air blowing in the presence of a desiccant.

Production of combined drying oil.

Combined drying oil and drying oil "oxol" of different brands are obtained by sequential heating of oil (drying, semi-drying or their mixture), oxidation of the oil by blowing air at a temperature of 150-160 ° C in the presence of a desiccant to the required viscosity and dilution with white spirit to a specified content of non-volatile substances ...

Making castor oil.

Castor oil is made by dehydration and polymerization of castor oil, followed by its esterification with glycerin (to reduce the acid number below 10) and dissolution of the prepared oil obtained in white spirit with the addition of a desiccant. Castor oil varnish contains ~ 46% (mass.) Of prepared castor oil, ~ 50% (mass.) Of white spirit, ~ 4% (mass.) (In terms of metal) desiccant - a mixture of linoleates: lead 1.4% (mass .), manganese 1.6% (wt.) and calcium - 1.0% (wt.).

Getting alkyd drying oil.

Alkyd drying oils (glyphthalic, pentaphthalic and xiphthalic) are obtained by diluting the corresponding fatty alkyd resins of a certain viscosity with white spirit and introducing a desiccant.

Making other drying oils.

Other drying oils are prepared in various ways. So, rubber drying oils are obtained by heat treatment of sunflower oil and its modification with liquid rubber of the SKDP-N brand, dilution with white spirit and the addition of lead-manganese desiccant.

Synthetic drying oils.

There is a group of materials that are conventionally called synthetic drying oils. These are various by-products of petrochemical industries that can form films upon drying. As a rule, these are low-quality materials, which, however, can be used for irresponsible work, impregnation of porous surfaces, temporary protection, etc. Such materials include, for example, polydiene varnish.

Due to the lower quality of synthetic drying oils in comparison with natural oils, a negative attitude has been formed in everyday life towards all synthetic materials as inferior substitutes, surrogates. Therefore, chemists involved in the development and manufacture of paints and varnishes should, on the basis of a deep study of the properties of raw materials, objectively assess its positive and negative aspects and give the consumer recommendations on the use and operation of these materials. Consumers should strictly follow these recommendations, since synthetic drying oils are less versatile. The scope of synthetic drying oil is limited.

Introduction of desiccants (desiccation) into drying oils.

In the process of obtaining drying oil, it is necessary to introduce the optimal amount of driers. At the same time, a small amount of desiccant may be ineffective to ensure the required drying rate, and an excessive amount of desiccant may not only not accelerate, but even reduce the rate of oil drying. In addition, the use of a desiccant containing 2 or 3 metals (polymetallic desiccants) provides an increase in the drying rate of drying oils.

Linoleates of lead, manganese, cobalt are most often used at the enterprises of the oil-and-fat industry in the manufacture of drying oil.

Precipitated naphthenate driers, which are more economical in comparison with fused resinates and linoleates, are most widely used in the production of drying oils.

Drying oil drying speed.

The drying rate of drying oil is determined both by the quality of the feedstock and by the type and amount of the drier introduced.

Drying oil containing polymetallic desiccants has a drying rate significantly higher than drying oil containing monometallic desiccants. For example, when a lead or manganese drier is introduced into linseed drying oil, it dries up in 20 hours and 12 hours, respectively, and when a lead-manganese drier is introduced - in 7.5 hours; with the introduction of a calcium desiccant or lead-manganese-calcium desiccant, linseed oil dries up in 32 hours and 6 hours, respectively.

The drying of drying oil is largely influenced by temperature and relative humidity. When the temperature rises from 17 to 25 ° C, the drying rate of drying oil with cobalt drier increases 1.3 times, and with manganese drier - 3.9 times. Drying oil containing 0.05% (wt.) Manganese dries at a relative humidity of 70%, twice as fast as at 97% humidity.

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Which drying oil is better - choose from 4 options and apply in practice

It is not known exactly when, where and by whom the drying oil was invented, but a person uses this composition, already several thousand are gone. In ancient times, it was made from different types of oil, technical progress has made its own adjustments and now there are 4 types of drying oil, the technical characteristics of which we will analyze further. Practitioners will learn how to dilute drying oil and how to apply it with their own hands.

What is the difference between 4 types of drying oil?

In ancient times, "boiled oil", namely the so-called drying oil, was used as an impregnation for wood and as a base for paints, now this list has been added to the primer of metals and the manufacture of various kinds of putty compounds.

Option number 1. Natural formulations

The natural group consists almost entirely of natural oils. The production and composition is regulated by the Soviet GOST 7931-76, according to this standard, a real good impregnation should consist of 97% of natural oils and only 3% falls on the so-called drier.

Oxides of manganese, iron, cobalt, etc. act as desiccants. This additive is needed to enhance the film-forming effect, in other words, so that the impregnation dries. Without a desiccant, the impregnated surface will never dry, at the same time, if the dose is increased, the coating will become brittle and crack over time.

In fact, drying oil can be cooked from any natural vegetable oil, but most often linseed, hemp, sunflower or tung oil is used for these purposes. Linseed impregnation is considered the best, it dries up in about a day, followed by hemp, and drying oils from sunflower and olive oil dry the longest.

Although formally natural drying oils are classified as varnishes, in fact they are closer to the primer. These compositions can be considered universal, they can be used everywhere, but since the price for them is quite high, such drying oils are used only for impregnating elite wood, restoration work and the production of expensive paints.

Natural impregnation is not able to withstand serious loads, therefore, when processing wooden floors, it can only be used as an intermediate, preparatory compound. But for decorative wood products, this is a great option.

Option number 2. Semi-natural impregnation

Semi-natural drying oils are better known under the name "Oksol". For serious volumes of work, they are considered an excellent alternative to natural formulations.

Oxol is produced in accordance with GOST 190-78, according to which 55% of natural boiled oil, 40% of white spirit (organic solvent) and 5% of desiccant must be present in the total mass. In theory, they can be used everywhere, but the solvent gives off a strong odor, so oxols are more often used for outdoor work.

Unlike the previous version, an increase in the amount of desiccant does not entail a decrease in quality, on the contrary, such coatings dry faster, they are much stronger, and most importantly, they are much cheaper. Plus, the consumption of oxols, in comparison with the natural group, is about a quarter less.

According to the rules, there should be instructions on the packaging of high-quality oxol, and here you need to carefully study the composition. The fact is that in semi-natural impregnations, the use of mineral and synthetic oils is strictly prohibited, the base must be natural.

Option number 3. Combined drying oils

The combined group is quite wide, these impregnations can to some extent be called improved oxol, the composition and general production technology are regulated by GOST 19007-73. It can be based on several types of oils with different processing technologies. The solvent is present, but not more than 30%.

But the main difference between the combined drying oil and all the others is that synthetic modifiers are used along with traditional driers. All this in a complex significantly increases the operational characteristics of the coating. In addition, these formulations do not have such a pungent odor as oxols.

The combined group is marked with the letter "K" and a numerical code, for example, "K-3" or "K-12". So, trains with odd codes are used for outdoor work, and an even line is for indoor work.

Option number 4. Synthetic drying oils

Synthetics are considered the lowest quality product. These drying oils can only boast of a low price, all other parameters leave much to be desired. Moreover, these compositions do not even have their own GOST, they are produced according to TU (technical conditions) and each manufacturer has its own conditions.

• Synthetics are made from petrochemical waste and other similar industries;
• The smell of such products is, to put it mildly, "wildly" unpleasant;
• In closed rooms, the smell can persist for up to several months;
• The color is dark, therefore, synthetics are not suitable for the manufacture of light paints and putties;
• The consistency is thick, often such drying oils need to be additionally diluted.

Synthetic drying oils are mainly used in the manufacture of dark thick-grated paints, pastes and putties, but exclusively for outdoor use. In the synthetic line, only alkyd compositions differ in relatively good quality; they represent a new development based on modern polymers.

Frequently asked Questions

Question	Answer
In what proportion are thick-grated paints diluted.	Densely rubbed paints are made on a different basis, so the instructions for each case are different. Personally, I use a universal recipe - I slowly add Oksol to the base and stir until the consistency becomes like liquid sour cream.
Is it possible to dilute silver oil with linseed oil.	Yes, you can make a good paint on linseed oil, but just keep in mind that such a silver can not be heat-resistant. On average, the proportions are 1: 3 or 1: 4. Below in the video in this article, you will find relevant information on this issue.
How to dilute drying oil	Thickened natural formulations are diluted with castor oil or turpentine; All others can be diluted with white spirit, turpentine or kerosene.
How is paraffin impregnation done on linseed oil.	The composition includes 5 parts by weight of drying oil, 1 part by weight of turpentine and 8 parts by weight of paraffin; Paraffin and turpentine are mixed first in a water bath; Then, add drying oil in a thin stream with constant stirring; The mixture is applied to the wood with a brush in a hot state, dries for about 2 - 3 days.
Is it possible to make drying oil with your own hands.	Yes you can: Take oil and gradually heat it up to 160º С; When heated, foam will form - this is water coming out; In this state, the oil is boiled until the water evaporates completely and the foam disappears. On average, this takes 3-4 hours; Then a desiccant is added, for each liter there is 30-40 grams. You need to add carefully and in small portions, as there will be a lot of foam; After adding the desiccant, the composition is warmed up for another 10-15 minutes, after which it is cooled.