How to properly fix polycarbonate on a metal frame. How to fix polycarbonate to metal correctly: how to fix it and which side How to attach polycarbonate to a metal frame of a greenhouse

The technology of laying a polycarbonate coating has its own nuances and subtleties, for example, which side to put polycarbonate on the crate, and whether it is worth it to prepare the frame and crate of the greenhouse so meticulously. Each summer resident or just a future owner of a greenhouse, faced with the problem of how to properly fix polycarbonate on a greenhouse, tries to solve the problem at his own discretion and at the lowest cost, sometimes risking ruining everything and losing a lot of money. It is quite possible to save in the details of polycarbonate fasteners on a greenhouse, but this must be done wisely.

Features of fastening polycarbonate to the greenhouse

The quality of work performed depends on many factors. First of all, there are certain rules for fixing polycarbonate, not invented and not taken from the ceiling by the manufacturer of roofing plastic. Most companies carefully consider the mounting technology so as to ensure the maximum period of operation of polycarbonate in a greenhouse of any design. Moreover, manufacturers print textual reminders, drawings, diagrams and entire comics about the correct fastening of polycarbonate to a greenhouse on plastic packaging.

In addition to knowing, at least in general terms, instructions for fixing the coating, you need to take into account the features of mounting polycarbonate on greenhouse frames:

• The greenhouse structure must be leveled on a soil or brick base. The upper plank or conditional line connecting the arches at the highest point must be strictly horizontal, the profile strips or battens should be parallel to each other;
• Polycarbonate is attached to the crate of the greenhouse frame only with fixing the web mechanically, best of all with self-tapping screws, or for cast grades, you can fasten monolithic polycarbonate with clamping strips;
• The polycarbonate sheet must be laid on the support strips with the correct side. If mixed up, then the service life of the material will decrease by 2.5-3 times.

Note! To facilitate the task, often the manufacturer of the plastic sheet puts special inscriptions and markings on the surface. Most often, the outer side of polycarbonate is sealed with paper or an opaque film.

Some manufacturing companies seal polycarbonate on both sides, and most often the front and back surfaces do not differ in color or design. Therefore, experienced craftsmen, before screwing the polycarbonate onto the greenhouse, prefer to decipher the designations on the packaging film, after which the outer side of the canvas is marked with a red line, the wrong side with a blue marker. At first glance, it’s a trifle, but according to the colored marks it is much easier to fix and control the polycarbonate on the crate.

The situation is much worse when the material was bought from hand, in used condition or without packaging. In this case, you need to involve a specialist or try to determine the external side by indirect signs. It does not make sense to start fastening cellular polycarbonate to the crate of the greenhouse without understanding the outer and wrong side of the canvas.

Which side to attach polycarbonate to the sun

Such strict restrictions in compliance with the rules for fastening polycarbonate plastic are associated with a high sensitivity of the material to ultraviolet radiation. The material laid upside down on the greenhouse will last a maximum of 3 years, instead of 15-17 years required for high-quality polycarbonate.

Therefore, during the production process, the outer side of the polycarbonate sheet is covered with a special transparent film that blocks 80-95% of ultraviolet radiation. High-quality cellular polycarbonate retains up to 99% of ultraviolet radiation, cheap varieties at best 70-80%, therefore, in order to hide the destruction of the material in the greenhouse, they are tinted in milky and smoky tones.

In standard cellular and monolithic polycarbonate, a thin transparent PVC film helps to protect the material. If the material to be fixed on the crate of the greenhouse is not sealed with packing viscose paper, then you can try to determine the outside by indirect signs:

• PVC film is tougher and harder than polycarbonate plastic, many craftsmen can determine its presence on the surface even by touch;
• Sometimes the outer side of the used ear polycarbonate is given out by scratches and marks from the attachment;
• The second method is simpler, you can measure the thickness of the walls of the honeycombs using a caliper, the outer surface will be 0.1 mm thicker than the wrong side.

Of course, this is not the most reliable way, but still better than putting expensive polycarbonate plastic on the greenhouse, trusting chance. Moreover, collapsing under the sun, polycarbonate often breaks the wooden parts of the frame.

How to screw polycarbonate

To fasten the honeycomb sheet, galvanized steel or black carpentry screws 19-50 mm long are used. The size and design of the self-tapping screw depends on three conditions:

• Thickness of cellular polycarbonate. Usually, a material no thicker than 10 mm is used for sheathing the greenhouse frame. If the greenhouse box is assembled according to the window principle from separate cells, then a more durable monolithic polycarbonate 10 mm is attached to the roof, and the sidewalls are covered with honeycomb plastic 6-8 mm thick;
• The selected polycarbonate mounting scheme. In the event that the canvas is laid with an overlap on a metal profile, a self-tapping screw 25 mm long will suffice; fasteners 19 mm long are used for fastening without overlap. To fix the polycarbonate on the wooden slats of the greenhouse sheathing, a fastener up to 50 mm long will be required;
• Washer dimensions. For standard mounting, silicone pads up to 5 mm thick are used, in decorative and home-made versions of pads, the size can vary from 3 to 15 mm.

For the main methods of fastening polycarbonate, a universal self-tapping screw with a hexagonal head and a drill at the end is used, photo.

Such fasteners are used for the aluminum frame of the greenhouse, but you can also mount on a tree, however, the strength of the connection will be halved. It costs a self-tapping screw assembly of 5-10 rubles, that is, for one greenhouse 2.1x6 m, you will need to spend about 500-600 rubles on polycarbonate fasteners.

Note! On the other hand, a special self-tapping screw can be easily replaced with ordinary carpentry fasteners with a head for a Phillips screwdriver or bit. The speed of attaching polycarbonate to the frame of the greenhouse will be less, but you can save 200-300 rubles.

The only type of fastener that is not suitable for mounting polycarbonate is a self-tapping screw or a screw with an enlarged plastic washer - lining. Such lining options are used to fix decorative canopies, visors, gazebo roofs. For a greenhouse, the option is very inconvenient due to the presence of a protruding centering sleeve, in more detail on the video:

The easiest way is to fix the polycarbonate sheet with a detachable, snap-in profile. Instead of wrapping screws, it is enough to lay the plastic on a pre-assembled profile and snap the canvas with a patch strip.

Through what distance to fix polycarbonate

The step between the installation points of the self-tapping screws depends on the thickness of the material and the distance between the laths of the crate. Standard polycarbonate 8 mm thick and web dimensions 2.1x10 m is fixed in increments of 40-50 mm, for thicker sheets the step is increased to 70 mm, in any case, 1/3 of the distance between the carrier rails or greenhouse arches is considered the optimal length.

Often, on a wooden pitched roof of a greenhouse, thickened beams are used as a crate, on which sheets have to be laid not with an overlap, but with a thermal gap, and the resulting joint is closed with a sealant and a decorative frame. In this case, the fastening step of the self-tapping screws is increased by 20%, and the points for installing fasteners are staggered.

How to screw polycarbonate correctly

There are only two ways to fix plastic, fast and high-quality. It is clear that the correct fastening depends on experience and on how well the layout of the greenhouse is chosen. For example, the same polycarbonate mounting step on an arched greenhouse can be stupidly chosen 30-45 cm, following the recommendations and instructions. And it is possible in the lower part of the wall, where there is practically no normal load, to increase to 50 cm, and at the top of the greenhouse arch to reduce to 25 cm in length. As a result, you can not worry about rain and strong winds.

How to properly fix cellular polycarbonate

The easiest way to ensure quality is to follow the installation instructions for self-tapping screws. The scheme of work depends on the shape and size of the washer and the design of the self-tapping screw:

• An ordinary washer made of thin rubber holds polycarbonate mediocre, it is not difficult to install it, but when working with a screwdriver with a nozzle, you need to be very careful not to push through the honeycomb sheet on the greenhouse. The thickness of the gasket is small, and often beginners do not have time to slow down the screwdriver and pierce the surface of the polycarbonate;
• Reinforced pvc washer, usually transparent or tinted in the color of polycarbonate. The fastening process is not much different from the previous method, the risk of damaging the polycarbonate sheet already laid on the greenhouse is very large;
• Large silicone washer the easiest to mount. It is recommended to all beginners, it is quite difficult to push through the honeycombs, since the material is soft and easily deformed, preventing the screwdriver from screwing the fasteners deeper than the norm.

The most difficult is the fastening of a self-tapping screw with a head for a cross-shaped bit. If the hexagon socket more or less evenly holds and guides the self-tapping drill into the metal, then the Phillips bit under load overturns the fastener.

Advice! If for a number of reasons it was necessary to fasten with a cross-shaped self-tapping screw, then it is best to fix the polycarbonate in two steps. Previously, at the attachment point, drilling is performed with a thin drill for metal, after which it is easy to install a bit - a cross and wrap the fasteners with a washer in the usual manner.

The most reliable way to attach the canvas to the greenhouse

In order not to get into trouble and not accidentally push through the polycarbonate already laid on the frame of the greenhouse, the process is divided into several stages:

• First of all, it is necessary to correctly lay the polycarbonate sheet on the greenhouse frame. The edge sheet is laid on the frame with a projection above the pediment of at least 5 cm, the second edge of the sheet must extend beyond the line of the support bar by 4 cm;
• At the joints above the crate, the panels of cellular polycarbonate must be overlapped. The sheet is leveled, stretched and fixed with a clamp, after which two self-tapping screws are wrapped on each side of the greenhouse;
• Straighten and stretch the canvas under the vertical fastening of the polycarbonate. Wrap fasteners on the walls of the greenhouse;
• The penultimate self-tapping screws are installed on the top of the arch or roof of the greenhouse.

Important! In all cases, the fasteners are not completely screwed into the details of the greenhouse crate with a screwdriver, a gap of 0.5-07 mm is left.

Upon completion of the polycarbonate lining of the greenhouse, you need to take a key or a socket head for a hexagon and tighten all attachment points manually. It is difficult, time-consuming and labor-intensive, but for a beginner, this is the only possible chance to secure the canvas and not accidentally push it through due to great diligence and lack of experience.

How to fix monolithic polycarbonate

Cast grades of polycarbonate plastic are rarely used for arranging greenhouses and greenhouses. Firstly, the monolith is more expensive, and secondly, there is no particular need to use absolutely transparent polycarbonate grades. An exception may be a greenhouse equipped with a heat accumulator, in which case polycarbonate on the roof is really able to improve the heating of plants in early spring.

There are two ways to fix monolithic plastic. The first involves sticking sheets on the wooden crate of the roof of the greenhouse. The glue is usually double-sided tape or a silicone cord laid in a groove in a wooden plank. This laying method is used only for flat roofs with a slope of no more than 10 o.

If the frame of the greenhouse is assembled from small cells, then you can glaze the frame with molded plastic using staples and a small amount of silicone. In this case, the monolith sheet is fixed in the corners of the frame using self-tapping screws, Z-shaped brackets lined with soft rubber. The edges along the perimeter of the sheet and the attachment points of the monolithic polycarbonate are sealed with ordinary sanitary silicone.

The second method involves fastening sheets with clamping pads. To fix the edge of the plastic, a wooden plank and several self-tapping screws are used. Before pressing the monolith, a thin silicone cord or tape is placed on the edges.

Is it possible to mount polycarbonate horizontally

In all known greenhouse designs, honeycomb material is attached only with a vertical orientation of the honeycomb. This is done for two reasons:

• To remove condensate;
• To prevent the appearance of a “bubble” on the greenhouse wall or plastic bulging outward.

The problem of condensate can be solved by "blind" sealing of the channels with a sealant, but this should be done only after the material has been fixed on the sheathing of the walls and roof of the greenhouse. The solvent evaporating from the silicone mass will serve as an additional antiseptic, which is why many cottage owners do just that - they muffle the ends of the polycarbonate, instead of sealing with tapes. No condensation, no algae, no bugs.

The second problem is much more complicated, cellular polycarbonate has different stiffness of the canvas, so the material is laid on the walls and roofs with vertical honeycombs. It is possible to build the walls of the greenhouse with a horizontal arrangement of channels, but in this case it will be necessary to release the self-tapping screws and reduce the pressing force to the minimum possible. In this case, the criterion for proper fastening is the mobility of the silicone washer, it should fit snugly against the polycarbonate, but it should be easy to rotate by hand.

Despite the fact that in theory such a mounting option is possible, only professionals working with polycarbonate laying can implement it in practice.

With all the advantages and merits, polycarbonate remains just a soft and pliable plastic, prone to aging and cracking. Honeycomb sheets, moreover, have the unpleasant property of accumulating plant microspores and dirt inside the channels. If the ends of the polycarbonate are not covered with tape during fastening to the greenhouse frame, then soon insects and moss may appear inside. You can fight green plaque with periodic cleaning with an antiseptic solution.

If the builders incorrectly laid the polycarbonate with the wrong side up, this is not a reason to dismantle the greenhouse. Instead, you can cover the surface with a protective PVC film used to restore the paintwork of cars.

Monolithic polycarbonate is considered more reliable in terms of greenhouse operation. But thermal stresses due to temperature changes can cause the smallest cracks, as a result, water drops with dirty stains appear on the ceiling and walls. Fixing the problem can be quite simple, it is necessary to treat the cracks with solvent 646 several times in order to melt the surface and eliminate the source of leakage in the greenhouse.

One of the problems that one has to face when fixing polycarbonate is related to the inconvenience of screwing self-tapping screws into a metal round pipe. In order for the fastener to properly enter the metal, the axis of the drill must be perpendicular to the metal surface. Only then can the honeycomb material be fixed without the risk of breaking through the thin surface. In this case, the L-shaped attachment to the electric drill helps a lot. With one hand we press the shelf against the steel pipe, with the other hand we drive the self-tapping screw with the washer into the polycarbonate. Marriage is almost non-existent.

If the polycarbonate sheet is planned to be fixed on the crate with ordinary carpentry fasteners, it would be right to do several training approaches on scraps in order to select the applied force on the screwdriver and the number of revolutions to fully enter the greenhouse frame material.

Conclusion

Learning how to correctly determine which side to lay polycarbonate is important for the durability of the greenhouse lining, but this is only half of the existing problems. It is important to learn how to properly install self-tapping screws and eliminate minor damage in the plastic cladding, which will always be present, even with the ideal installation of the material. Maintenance of a polycarbonate plastic greenhouse is not difficult, but it will still have to be done every year with the arrival of spring and the start of the season.

The monolithic version has a solid structure, like ordinary glass, but due to the base in the form of polymers, it is many times stronger and lighter than the same glass, and additionally has an increased resistance to physical impact due to its flexibility. Such elements are used as a complete replacement of glass in residential and public buildings, as well as shopping, entertainment and scientific complexes.

The honeycomb element consists of a pair of thin plates interconnected by special stiffening ribs, the space between which is free.

This material is widely used in construction, utility and utility rooms and summer cottages, especially as a coating for greenhouse complexes.

How to Orient Panels

Polycarbonate honeycomb elements along their length have ribs that ensure their rigidity, therefore, during installation, they must always be positioned in such a way that the hollow channels inside them have an outlet to the outside. This requirement is dictated by the need for condensate to escape from them, which can form due to the temperature difference.

When mounting such plates as vertical glazing, the ribs providing rigidity are also placed vertically. When fastening to the frame as a ramp or arch, you must always orient them so that the internal hollow channels inside go along the slopes or along the arc of the arch, respectively.

Today's manufacturing technology for both monolithic and honeycomb panels implies that each of them has a front and inner side. They are distinguished from each other due to the presence on the first of a special protective coating in the form of a film with a marking, which serves as protection for it until the moment of complete installation, and is removed at the final stage.

When installing polycarbonate panels as an arched structure, the maximum bending radius for a particular type of material, indicated in its marking, should be taken into account and never exceeded.

1. Sheet cutting

Polymer boards are supplied in standard sheets, which, as a rule, always have larger dimensions than required, so one of the main operations with them is to cut them into pieces with the desired dimensions. This operation will have to be done both during and during the installation of a polycarbonate roof with your own hands.

The operation itself for cutting optimal pieces from a solid panel is extremely simple, since the material is easily cut. To do this, you can use different tools for cutting, from a hand hacksaw to an electric grinder or a jigsaw.

In the process of polymer cutting, regardless of the selected tool, it is impossible to avoid the occurrence of material vibrations during its operation, which can adversely affect the quality of cuts and lead to problems during installation and fitting of finished parts, up to the rejection of some of them. Therefore, in order to make the task as easy as possible and level out side fluctuations, the material is securely fixed beforehand.

In the case of a honeycomb structure, after cutting, the cavities in the resulting elements are cleaned of chips, because if they remain clogged, condensate drainage will be difficult and moisture will accumulate inside the plates, which is especially dangerous during frosts, since water frozen inside the panel can damage it.

2. End sealing

Honeycomb plates require sealing of their ends. The one on top can be pasted over with ordinary adhesive tape, and to seal the bottom, it is better to use a special perforated tape to drain moisture condensing inside the sheet.

For unhindered outflow of the condensing liquid from the panel, it is required to organize several holes in its end part, identical to those used to fix the polymer sheet.

Cellular polycarbonate mount

It is possible to fasten carbonate plates to structures of almost any material, its type only affects the choice of elements for fasteners. As a rule, these are self-tapping screws for wood or metal with a self-tapping sting, which come with special thermal washers with a rubberized surface.

Thermal washers have a special leg and are selected according to its size so that it matches the thickness of the panel fixed by it. This design not only protects the sheet structure from excessive deformation, but also reduces heat losses through direct contact with the self-tapping screw, which in this case acts as a cold conductor through polycarbonate.

Therefore, self-tapping screws with thermal washers are a universal fastener, regardless of the material of the bearing surface, which is sheathed with polymer panels.

When mounting, it is advisable to insert self-tapping screws into pre-drilled holes in plastic, which must meet the following requirements:

1. Firstly, holes can only be drilled between stiffeners, and only at a distance of at least 4 cm from the edge of the slab.
2. Secondly, the holes should provide for the thermal expansion of the material, which should be able to move on the fasteners due to the fact that the hole in it is one and a half millimeters larger than the diameter of the thermal washer leg.
3. In the case of a large length of plastic, the holes in it for fixing should not be not only of large diameter, but also of a longitudinally elongated shape.
4. When drilling, it is extremely important to observe the most straight angle of the hole with an error of no more than 20 degrees, otherwise, when the washer is fixed, a distortion will occur and the panel will not be securely attached to the supporting structure.

Knowing the technology of fixing polycarbonate, you can easily and reliably sheathe them with almost any structure. However, it is also necessary to master the technology of joining panels to each other, which involves the use of special elements for these purposes - profiles, which can be either fixed or detachable.

The first are used with panels with a thickness of 4 to 10 mm. The second are Poliskrep profiles, capable of joining together plates from 6 to 16 mm in thickness. Removable profiles are assembled from a pair of elements: the lower one, which acts as a base, and the upper one, a cover with a latch.

Such polymer connecting profiles are necessary for the assembly of arched or pitched structures, but are also suitable for completely sheer surfaces. One latch connects a pair of panels with a width of 50 to 105 cm, and it is fixed on self-tapping screws. When pairing individual panels at an angle of 90 degrees, an angular docking profile is provided, and in case of adjoining a wall, a special wall profile is provided.

The technology for fixing a removable profile fits into several operations:

1. Drilling a hole for a self-tapping screw in the base.
2. Fixing the base to the longitudinal structure and laying the panels with a gap of 5 mm required to compensate for the thermal expansion of the material.
3. Snapping the profile cover with a wooden mallet.
4. Temperature value.

Often, when sheathing greenhouses with cellular polycarbonate, the plates are overlapped one on top of the other, instead of using special joining profiles. This option is optimal and possible only in the case of a small thickness of the sheets, which does not exceed 6 mm, since due to the thinness of this they have increased flexibility, due to which they can “walk” or even jump out of the fixing profile.

But thick polymer plates with a thickness of 8 mm or more with this technique will form very noticeable "steps" due to overlapping each other, which can only be solved by using a connecting profile.

You should be aware that fastening polycarbonate sheets with an overlap method can lead to the following consequences:

1. Firstly, with this method, the tightness of the sheathed structure will always be violated, up to a draft, complete blowing out of internal heat and even clogging of debris and precipitation under the sheathing of the structure;
2. Secondly, overlapped sheets experience a much greater impact from gusts of wind, which means that if the fixation is not strong enough, they can be torn off or broken.

Mounting monolithic polycarbonate

1. How and to what can carbonate be attached

Monolithic carbonate has two ways of fastening, however, both of them require a base in the form of a supporting frame that ensures reliable fixation of the slab:

1. First method- "wet", implies the use of a special polymer lubricant. The installation of elements in this case is organized with gaps that compensate for the expansion of the material under the influence of temperature. This option is also appropriate when inserting a polymer plate into a wooden frame. In the case of a metal frame, rubber gaskets are used in combination with a sealant that is applied to the inner and outer clamping surface.
2. Second method- "dry" installation, does not require any sealants and makes it possible to install the panel directly on the rubber seal. Since the structure itself is not airtight, it provides drainage to drain water.

2. Is it possible to overlap the sheets

Polycarbonate is a thermoplastic material that reacts to temperature fluctuations by changing its dimensions. Therefore, it contracts in cold weather and expands in hot weather. If this fact is not taken into account in the process of fastening sheets from it, most likely, sooner or later they will be damaged.

This is especially true for monolithic polymer elements, which not only have a higher expansion coefficient, but also do not have structural flexibility in the form of voids and profiles. Therefore, their use in combination with the technology of rigid fastening - overlap, is impossible.

Temperature value

Polycarbonate is an unpretentious and rather hardy material and, in relation to the ambient temperature, can be operated in the range from -40 to +120 degrees Celsius. However, the polymer on the basis of which it is made, under the influence of temperature, can both expand and contract, which is expressed in its coefficient of expansion equal to 0.065 mm per degree of temperature for each meter of sheet.

Therefore, to calculate the real expansion, you need to calculate the limiting temperature difference for the year and multiply it by 0.065 mm. For example, when installing in an average climatic zone with temperatures from -40 to +50 degrees

Celsius clearance should be about 6 mm per linear meter of plastic. In the case of painting, the heating of the sheets increases by an average of 10 - 15 degrees, which means that they will expand more, that is, by about 6.5 mm per meter of the plate.

1. Carbide blades with fine, straight teeth are excellent for cutting polymers, as they leave the most even and accurate cut.
2. Do not rush to remove the protective film from the sheets immediately upon purchase, it was created not only to protect the material from damage, dirt and scratches during transportation and storage, but also during the installation operation.
3. The upper ends of the polymer panels must be closed. To do this, it is recommended to use an unusual adhesive tape, and a special tape. The lower ends, on the contrary, are open to ensure the removal of condensed moisture.
4. It is not advisable to strongly tighten the self-tapping fixing plates, and also, in general, to rigidly fasten the entire panel, which must have a certain degree of freedom in order to "breathe" expanding and contracting during periods of warming and cooling, respectively.

Having stopped your choice on this material, you should choose the right product that best meets the required conditions. For any design, there are parameters that determine the choice - this is the ambient temperature (it cannot be influenced); indoor temperature (set by standards), design loads on the structure (depending on the region) and your taste. However, not the last place in the selection parameters is material quality. After all, only serious factories produce high-quality material, with a 10-year warranty and a service life of 25-30 years.

These recommendations for installation, transportation and storage are based on many years of experience in the work of manufacturing plants ( Poligal and Carboglass) of cellular polycarbonate and will give you the opportunity to use the material correctly.

For safety when installing plates, you should:

• Comply with safety regulations when working at height.
• beware of slippery surfaces.
• beware of losing balance in windy weather.

Installation of polycarbonate slabs in flat, pitched and vertical structures (single-pitched, double-pitched roofs, pyramid structures)

When designing the supporting structure, it must be taken into account that the plates must be mounted in such a way that the polycarbonate stiffeners are located strictly from top to bottom to allow condensate to escape.

At the same time, for panels installed in a flat horizontal position, an inclination angle of at least 5˚ is required.

The calculation was made for a wind and snow load of 180 kg/m2.

For the correct manufacture of the supporting structure and the avoidance of large waste, it is recommended to clarify the dimensions of polycarbonate plates and the method of installation with specialists. Also, before installing polycarbonate, it is necessary to perform all welding and painting work on the structure.

Accessories used for the installation of polycarbonate plates

End tapes (upper sealing, lower perforated)

End profile UP

Connecting profile (one-piece HP, detachable HCP, aluminum clamping plate)

Ridge profile RP (depending on design)

Corner profile (depending on design)

Wall profile FP (depending on design)

Self-tapping screws with sealing rubber washers (with a drill for metal structures, without a drill for wooden frames)

1. Polycarbonate sheets have a packaging protective film on both sides. Under the film with factory markings is the front side, which has a UV protective layer that protects the polycarbonate from exposure to harsh UV radiation. The reverse side has a transparent or plain film. Important! Polycarbonate is installed with the front side (UV-protective layer) outward to the sun. Otherwise, the life of the panel will be shortened. ( The manufacturer's warranty does not cover panels installed in violation of the instructions).

2. For storage and transportation, the ends of the polycarbonate panels are protected with temporary tape. During installation, temporary adhesive tape should be removed and installed: sealing tape - along the upper edge (to protect the upper ends), and perforated tape - along the bottom (to allow condensate to escape from the cells and protect the sheets from dust). All open channels of the panels must be glued with end tape.

3. Tapes must be closed with end profiles (if the edge of the panel does not go into grooves or other profiles). In profiles that are attached to the lower edge of the panel, it is necessary to clear the drainage holes with a diameter of 2-3 mm in increments of 300 mm. During installation, it is necessary that the short shelf of the end profile is outside. For strength, the end profile is attached to small self-tapping screws or drops of transparent silicone sealant.

4. Immediately before installation, the packaging film from the sheets must be partially removed, but in such a way as not to confuse the sides. Please note that premature removal of the protective film may damage the panel. Immediately after installation, the entire packaging film is completely removed!

To connect polycarbonate panels, various types of profiles are used, which are selected depending on the supporting structure.

One-piece polycarbonate connecting profile HP:

It is intended for connection of sheets among themselves. The profile is attached directly to the structure through a self-tapping screw, the edges of the panel are inserted into the profile on both sides, and the panels are attached to the structure along the purlins using self-tapping screws with sealing rubber washers. Suitable for vertical, horizontal and pitched structures.

One-piece connecting profile HP

It should be remembered that HP profiles (4 and 6 mm) do not provide reliable joint sealing.

Wall polycarbonateF profile

It is designed both for sealing panels and for fastening the edges of panels to the wall base. Attaches with self-tapping screws.

Wall profile FP

Corner polycarbonate profile

It is intended for connection of panels in corners of designs.

Angle profile

Ridge polycarbonate profile

Designed for joining polycarbonate panels in a ridge up to 120˚ (in gable structures, in pyramid structures).

Ridge profile

Detachable polycarbonate connection profile

Includes

1) the base on which the ends of the connected sheets are placed along the length; it is attached to the crate through the center with self-tapping screws.

2) a lid that is attached to the bottom by hand pressure or with a mallet with a rubber tip.

This profile is convenient for joining long sheets on a roof slope or in arched structures.

Split connection profile

HCP type profiles (8, 10 and 16 mm) provide both reliable sealing of the joint and high panel clamping force, which eliminates the need for additional fasteners. In this case, the width of the mounted panel should not exceed 800-900 mm (panels 8 and 10 mm) and 1200-1400 mm for panels 16 mm.

If overlapping panels cannot be avoided, the recommended overlap of the transverse (on the short side of the panel) joint should be 100-140 mm, and the longitudinal joint - 70-80 mm.

When using own or customized profiles, the customer should take into account the required clamping width of the panel edges in the profile wings - a minimum of 12.7 mm for 6-10 mm panels and a minimum of 19 mm for 16-25 mm panels, plus a margin for thermal expansion. (For example, a transparent panel 6 mm thick and a width of 1 m would require a clamp equal to 12.7 + 2.5 = 15.2 mm. A bronze panel 16 mm with a panel width of 1600 mm would require a clamp equal to 19 + (4. ,6)=26 mm.) In regions with a high calculated wind and/or snow load, the minimum values ​​given should be increased by 1.5 times. When installing the panels indoors (in the absence of high loads), it is possible to reduce the indicated values ​​​​by 3 times, but in any case, the groove size cannot be less than 5 mm.

Interpanel connection

1. Fastening of polycarbonate sheets is carried out using self-tapping screws with rubber sealing washers, along the entire crate, in increments of 400-600 mm.

2. For each self-tapping screw, it is necessary to pre-drill a hole, the center of the axis of which should be located no closer than 36 mm from the edge of the panel. The hole diameter must be 2 mm larger than the diameter of the self-tapping screw to allow thermal expansion and contraction of the material. This coefficient for transparent panels is 2.5 mm/m, for colored panels - 4.5 mm/m.

3. When fastening self-tapping screws, avoid excessive twisting, which can lead to deformation of the sheet surface. It is important to tighten the bolts perpendicular to the surface to avoid damage.

5. It should be remembered that it is allowed to hang the edge of the panel beyond the limits of the supporting structure by no more than 10 cm, but not less than 3 cm.

Attention! Do not leave panels unattended on a roof or installation site unless they are properly secured and all mounting bolts are in place. During installation, make sure that the panels are protected from sudden gusts of wind.

Polycarbonate panels are installed by honeycomb channels only in the direction of the arched surface.

Incorrect positioning of the material

Correct location - in the direction of the arch

Polycarbonate sheets can be bent into an arch to the minimum allowable radius without mechanical damage to the surface. Moreover, the internal pressure that occurs during compression gives the structure additional strength and rigidity. The smaller the compression radius (up to the minimum allowable), the higher the rigidity of the structure.

Important! Compression and twisting of the panel, exceeding the minimum allowable radius, leads to increased pressure and deformation of the surface, as a result, bursting or breaking of the sheet. Panels installed in violation of the minimum bending radius are not covered by the factory warranty!

Minimumadmissibleradiusbendingsheets (R)

For installation in arched structures, panels are prepared in the same way as for pitched structures. Important! In an arched installation, when both ends of the panel with open channels are located at the bottom, only perforated tape is used. The panels are connected using connecting profiles and roofing screws with sealing washers (see Fig. Preparing panels for installation, Ways of connecting and fixing panels, Interpanel connection). It should be noted that it is difficult to connect panels with a one-piece connecting profile, therefore it is recommended to use a split connecting profile. If the use of a one-piece connecting profile is necessary, then the profile must be larger than the thickness of the polycarbonate (for example, when connecting polycarbonate sheets with a thickness of 4 mm, you need to use an HP profile for 6 mm, etc.).

Transportation of panels is carried out in a truck with a body of suitable dimensions with a flat floor without protruding irregularities. For panels with a thickness of 4-8 mm, it is not allowed to protrude beyond the dimensions of the body, panels with a thickness of 10-16 mm can protrude beyond the limits of the body by no more than 0.8-1 m. Panels must be transported only in a horizontal position, they can be stacked one on top of the other , thicker at the bottom, thinner at the top, avoiding sagging unsupported surfaces.

In case of emergency, it is possible to carry out the transport of the panels rolled up in a closed vehicle, while it is necessary that the internal width and height of the body correspond to the minimum permissible bending radius of the panel. For transportation over a short distance, it is permissible for the internal width of the body to be less than the permitted one by 10%. (The POLYGLAS SPb company does not recommend such transportation and does not take responsibility for possible damage to panels transported in this way.)

Polycarbonate storage

Polycarbonate panels should be stored without breaking the original packaging. Overloading or transferring the panels should be done carefully so as not to break the packaging film and not damage the panel itself.

Polycarbonate panels are stored in a horizontal position on a flat surface (pallets, cardboard, etc.). Storage of plates on the ground is not allowed.

It is necessary to store polycarbonate indoors, avoiding overheating of the panels in the sun.

Do not leave the panels with open ends for a long time, because. the channels can become clogged with dust and insects can get into them.

Cutting polycarbonate

Cellular polycarbonate is cut using a circular saw (“parquet”, “grinder”, electric jigsaw) or other suitable cutting equipment, including manual, which should be with a fine, undivided tooth at an angle of inclination close to 30 °. Chips that are formed during the cutting process with a saw should be thoroughly cleaned with a jet of air under pressure or in any other way available. During cutting, the polycarbonate should be pressed firmly against the table surface to prevent it from vibrating or shifting. If it is necessary to cut plates of insignificant thickness (4-6 mm), you can use a wide knife or metal shears.

Washing of polycarbonate plates

Polycarbonate can be washed with a soft sponge/cloth/brush and warm soapy water. You can use any soap (including laundry), dishwashing detergents and window cleaners containing alcohol (but not containing acetone, ammonia), it is imperative to wash off the soap so that stains and stains do not remain.

Do not use scrapers, knives or other sharp objects.

Do not use products containing acetone, ammonia, ethers.

In construction, more and more craftsmen prefer such material as polycarbonate. It has to do with durability and strength. Even natural influences are not dangerous for such structures. The operation of the material does not cause difficulties, but has its own nuances. Therefore, it is worthwhile to figure out in advance how to attach polycarbonate to a metal frame.

A monolithic or cellular variety of polycarbonate is produced. A monolithic thermoplastic is a solid panel. Outwardly, it is similar to glass, although it is flexible and highly impact resistant, with reduced weight. Inside, the honeycomb-type structures have cells with partitions, which simultaneously perform the function of stiffeners. These are light and transparent types of plates. Excellent thermal insulation properties are becoming especially important for summer residents and gardeners. The profile for attaching polycarbonate must also have some characteristics.

Getting ready for work

The main thing is not to forget about the tools and materials needed for installation:

1. Hardware. With the same function, you can use thermal washers or self-tapping screws;
2. Power tools. Let's allow any option - in the form of electric jigsaws, screwdrivers, drills;
3. Mechanical action tools, including screwdrivers and drills, electric jigsaws;
4. Profiles of different types, contributing to the creation of a strong attachment;
5. polycarbonate sheets.

Separate preparation is also required for the polycarbonate panels themselves:

• Each sheet must be correctly oriented in space;
• Creation of accurate markups, according to the initial project. After that, go to the incision;
• The ends of the sheets of the graded material are sealed. It is necessary to take into account the deformation from the effects of heat, the possible bending in the future;
• It is necessary to separately assemble the elements that require assembly before the installation begins; after that we fix the polycarbonate to the profile.

Profiles or thermal washers become the main elements during fastening. Profiles contribute to the formation of detachable, one-piece connections.

One-piece profile option will look good in a small area. This is a cheap option with many colors. The size of the slope is one of the main parameters when working with this material. The maximum indicator is three meters. But the solid sheet also has the disadvantage of poor flexibility. Because of this, the structure can be easily damaged during operation.

Polycarbonate is attached using one of two methods - wet and dry.

1. Wet involves the use of putty;
2. The use of the dry method involves mechanical fastening of the parts; For example, a thermal washer for polycarbonate is used, any home master will understand how to fix it.

When it comes to the wet version, the sheet around the perimeter is treated with polymer putty. The sheet itself then fits into the groove of the frame. It is necessary to observe the necessary clearances, and then press one part to the other. At the last stage, it remains to remove excess putty, use sealant to process the joint. Rubber acts as an excellent sealant if necessary to connect the material to the metal.

It is acceptable to combine both methods to provide better results. Then the processing of the rubber gasket is carried out:

• polymer materials;
• Scotch tape;
• Sealing tape;
• silicone compounds.

For dry mounting, other methods and other materials are used.

Holes and grooves of the threaded type are used when connecting polycarbonate to the base. Plastic sealants or rubber strips will help seal the product.

The main feature of the method is that the sheet is located along an arc allowed by the manufacturers. It is supposed to use grooves with tolerances that initially assume the appearance of deformations from heat.

The use of the point method is relevant for monolithic products. Self-tapping screws and bolts with nuts are the main tools, although you can choose more expensive thermal washers. The design goes through several stages, it is supposed to maintain a 50-centimeter gap between the holes.

The first step is to create a hole on the edge of the sheet. The diameter of the hole, compared with the parameter of the connecting hardware, is set larger, by 2-3 centimeters. A self-tapping screw or bolt will help hold the materials together, you just need to use a screwdriver or screwdriver. Polycarbonate needs to create reliable fasteners.

Cellular polycarbonate: how to work with it

Installation is carried out according to the rules different from working with monolithic products:

1. The stiffening ribs must be positioned so that no obstacles are created when the accumulated condensate liquid flows out. Even the arched version provides that stiffeners are located in the structure;
2. End edges require additional protection from the environment. Adhesive tape, plastic frost-resistant materials will cope with the task;
3. At the top there should be a side that is intended for this, and is provided with a special marking;
4. On both sides, you need to save the protective film, if possible. It is removed when the installation is completed.

The mounting sequence is described as follows:

• The frame and bases of the prefabricated profile are connected with self-tapping screws having a 30-50 centimeter pitch;
• Sheets are stacked on the profile. The material must be prepared in advance. The gaps should be small, 2-5 mm. This helps prevent thermal warping;
• A profile cover is laid on the base. Then everything clicks down.

When fastening, self-tapping bolts are indispensable helpers, you just need to observe the gaps. To do this, you need to perform the following actions:

1. Drill holes in the frame. The edge of the material is laid on top, with a release of 4-5 cm. It is necessary to create coaxial holes between the stiffeners;
2. Self-tapping screws and washers help to mount and connect the plates to each other.

At this stage, the work is considered completed.

About the types of profiles, their purpose

The processing methods used depend on the design:

These are the main types, although there are various models in stores. Polycarbonate mount allows different types.

Supports or battens for fastening panels

Additional fasteners are required if the material covers a large area.

Small dimensions allow the use of polycarbonate to cover the surface with the additional use of double-sided adhesive tape, polyamide glue. Silicone adhesive is suitable for outdoor use. It is more resistant to atmospheric precipitation or phenomena. When cellular polycarbonate is used, the mount may be different.

Polyurethane-based adhesive is used if increased transparency is important. Before using it, the surface must be degreased.

Thermal washers and plugs

Fastening polycarbonate to a metal frame with thermal washers involves the use of different parts. Elements are distinguished by the following features:

1. Mini washers. Used in conjunction with panels of small length;
2. Manufacturing material. Thermal washers can be based on stainless steel, polycarbonate, polypropylene. The latter make the connections airtight without violating the structure, and the latter are relevant for interior work, or the presence of shadows;
3. By design, parts are universal, individual. The second option does not have a leg, which allows it to be used when working with any parameters.

Plugs are used to give the structure an attractive appearance, protection against water and small animals getting inside.

Fixing panels to awnings

Polycarbonate can change properties when exposed to high temperatures. Therefore, you need to follow the rules:

• Correct types of profiles;
• High-quality thermal washers;
• Enlargement of holes during installation;
• The presence of gaps.

The acquired material also requires storage in accordance with all the rules. You need to find out about this before you figure out how to fix polycarbonate to a metal frame.

1. The first step is laying the sheets on a flat surface. The protective film remains at the top;
2. For one stack, the maximum height is 2.5 meters;
3. Storage involves the location of the material away from heating devices. The room must be dry and ventilated;
4. Do not use polyethylene on top of the material.

Protective coatings are removed from the panels only at the end of the installation work. It doesn’t matter what decision is made about how to fix polycarbonate.

The quality of the work performed depends on how compatible the materials are. Polyurethane and PVC, amine and acrylic sealants are not compatible with polyurethane.

There are a number of factors to consider when designing frameworks:

• The direction in which the water flows;
• The presence of a bend with an acceptable radius;
• Dimensions of structures;
• Temperature impact;
• The presence of different types of load.

From +10 °C to + 20 °C are the optimal conditions for creating polycarbonate structures. Supports are used if it needs to be moved on the surface. A soft fabric cover would be the best solution. Then the fasteners for polycarbonate will also last a long time.

Conclusion

Simplicity and ease of use, together with the low weight of the panels, have made polycarbonate a really popular material. In addition, it involves a wide choice of materials used for fastening. Even novice home masters will cope with the installation, with little or no outside help. Quality can satisfy any needs of customers, as well as a large assortment of colors.

The main thing is to choose a product that meets the needs in terms of thickness and workmanship. The frame and some of the intricacies of fastening will not hurt to study before making a purchase.

A great idea to glaze a veranda or assemble a greenhouse made of transparent plastic on a metal profile will be successful only if the polycarbonate is correctly attached to the metal frame. Both materials, steel and polycarbonate polymer, have features and disadvantages, therefore, before attaching polycarbonate to metal, careful surface preparation and, of course, the use of a special type of fastener will be required.

Features of fixing polycarbonate to metal

Using a metal frame to construct a greenhouse or a canopy over the entrance to the house is considered the best solution. You can quickly assemble load-bearing beams and arched ceilings, welding provides the strongest type of connection, and square arcs rolled on a machine get a perfectly flat and smooth surface.

In turn, polycarbonate, whether cellular or monolithic, is recognized as the most successful type of roof, especially for such specific structures as a greenhouse frame or a protective canopy over a car park.

But together, two excellent materials do not get along very well, there are at least three reasons why you have to use a special type of fastener for polycarbonate to a metal frame:

• Polycarbonate plastic has an abnormally high coefficient of thermal expansion, almost two orders of magnitude higher than that of metal. This means that any methods of attaching polycarbonate to metal must be performed with compensating gaps;
• Due to fluctuations in temperature, especially in early spring, polycarbonate sheets begin to "ride" on the supporting surface of the steel frame. Since the plastic surface is many times softer than the metal one, the edges of the sheets eventually become covered with stripes and scratches;
• Monolithic and even cellular polycarbonate has a high heat capacity and low thermal conductivity, about 30% lower than that of glass. As a result of the temperature difference, condensation forms on the details of the metal frame, especially under the attachment points and inside the honeycombs. Frame parts have to be regularly cleaned and periodically painted.

Usually, the owners, when planning the method of laying the roof of a canopy or a polycarbonate greenhouse on a metal frame, take into account only the first point. Fracture and cracking of polycarbonate sheets laid on a steel frame without compensating gaps can be seen two hours after completion of work. Therefore, most developers are well aware of the behavior of plastic and are well aware of how to properly attach polycarbonate to metal with gaps and compensators.

Risk of damage to polycarbonate on a steel frame

The last two points are traditionally overlooked, it is considered more important to prevent thermal stresses and deformation of polycarbonate sheets. Few people think that a steel frame structure will need to be maintained, cleaned and painted at least once every five years.

Note! The most vulnerable parts of the metal frame are not the bases of the supports, as is commonly believed by do-it-yourselfers, but the front edges of the surface, on which sheet polycarbonate rests.

It is in this place that, due to the large amount of moisture, oxygen and sunlight, the paintwork burns out and cracks in the first place. Therefore, the steel frame must be painted under the polycarbonate fasteners to the metal. This is not as easy as it might seem at first glance:

• It is very difficult to crawl under the mount with a brush, so the sheets of polycarbonate plastic must be dismantled, the metal must be cleaned before painting, and, if necessary, the gaskets must be changed;
• Paint or solvent must not come into contact with the polycarbonate surface. First, plastic, contrary to popular belief, melts well and is damaged by a wide variety of solvents, including alcohol, aromatic and organochlorine liquids.

When even a small amount of paint for outdoor metal work gets on polycarbonate, and they are usually produced on the basis of aromatic compounds, a matte opaque spot instantly forms. It is very difficult to remove a “burn” from a cell phone, and especially from a monolithic plastic. Therefore, it is easier to make a collapsible fastening of a monolithic polycarbonate to a metal frame than to damage the material during the first painting.

Of course, the task of maintaining the metal frame can be greatly simplified and even eliminate the use of paint. For example, choose a special aluminum profile with an oxidized and painted surface for arranging load-bearing arches or floor trusses. Not only does the quality of the coating guarantee the protection of the metal cross members of the frame for one and a half to two decades, the process of attaching polycarbonate is simplified several times.

How to fix polycarbonate to a metal frame

Laying plastic sheets on a finished steel or aluminum base can be done in a variety of ways. For example, polycarbonate can be glued to a sealant or sewn to a wooden lining, fixed with self-tapping screws, or a special mounting profile can be used. The choice of a specific technology is based on the dimensions of the roof, the shape and thickness of the material, and, of course, depends on the structure of the polycarbonate - honeycomb or monolithic.

In order not to engage in handicraft, with the method of fastening it is best to use the most reliable and proven schemes:

• Installing or laying the fixation of the sheet on the intermediate polycarbonate tape of the H-shaped profile;
• Installation of plastic sheets with fixation at the joints using a collapsible - split strip;
• Fastening polycarbonate using a specialized detachable profile.

In addition to the three main methods, an auxiliary fastening option is used by the point method. In this case, the polycarbonate is fixed not at the edge joint line, but over the entire area of ​​the canvas. The scheme is clearly borrowed from the technology of sheathing frame metal fences and is currently used only for very thin cellular polycarbonate.

The simplest options for attaching plastic to the frame

The point method of fixing a polycarbonate roof involves the use of a wooden crate laid on a frame between metal girders. For fastening, a through hole is drilled in the canvas, a rubber bushing is installed in the cavity, then a self-tapping screw with a compensating washer is wrapped, and a protective cap is put on.

Instead of a self-tapping screw, you can use a screw, which will make it possible, if necessary, to remove the polycarbonate from the metal frame. The only condition is that you need to drill a hole in the crate. The standard pitch for attaching polycarbonate to a metal frame is 300-400 mm.

Note! The method, despite its primitiveness and not the best decorative look, has two very important advantages. Firstly, fasteners cost a penny, and it is very easy to repair them. Secondly, the load on polycarbonate from the pressure of snow or water is transferred to the metal frame evenly over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure.

Even an extremely large layer of snow will not push through a thin polycarbonate on a metal frame, as is the case when using simpler and more modern mounting schemes. In addition, using a point method, you can easily mount the material on rails with an asymmetrical profile, for example, fasten polycarbonate to a metal corner.

Fixing with a tape profile

In this case, an H-shaped plastic tape with two shelves at the ends is attached to the metal on the frame. The profile is used to attach cellular polycarbonate to a metal frame. In this case, the tape is laid on the roof simultaneously with the polycarbonate sheet.

The advantage of such a scheme is the high speed of mounting cellular polycarbonate on a metal frame. In addition, counter battens or arched sections can be dispensed with, which simplifies work and saves material. The strength of this method of attaching polycarbonate is low, so it is used mainly for temporary ground greenhouses and greenhouses.

Fixed plastic fixing

Approximately 90% of all roofs, canopies and protective canopies are assembled according to a stationary scheme. In this case, the roof is assembled from individual sheets of plastic, cut to the full width of the roof. In this way, it is possible to ensure the minimum length of the seams, which greatly simplifies the installation of a transparent coating on a metal base.

For permanent roofs and canopies, two types of fasteners are used:

The main advantage of both schemes is the high strength of fasteners and the possibility of repairing the roofing. In decorative terms, the plank mount looks more attractive.

Preparing for installation

First of all, before starting installation work, it will be necessary to check and, if necessary, align the bearing surfaces of the metal arcs or profiles on which it is planned to lay the material. If this is not done, then the surface playing with glare on an uneven frame will look very ugly.

After priming and painting the metal frame, mounting strips are laid on the crossbars, their position is aligned according to the template and fixed with a bolted connection.

How to fix polycarbonate to a metal frame

If a point method is chosen for fixing, then it is easiest to mount on individual sections of the roof before installing on a metal frame. In this way, small fragments of greenhouses or temporary sheds are collected.

Separate panels with already installed polycarbonate sheets are joined with quick-release couplings or clamps.

How to fix cellular polycarbonate to a metal frame

The turned method of fastening allows you to flexibly select places for installing self-tapping screws. Usually fasteners are screwed into the wood of the crate, but if the frame is assembled without a sublayer, then metal clamps from steel or aluminum strips can be used, as is done when assembling the fence. It is important that there is a gap of at least 4 mm between the edges for each meter of coating length.

If the roof frame is assembled in the form of flat slopes, then it will be more convenient to use a special rail. First of all, a mounting profile-rail is attached to the frame. Sheets of cellular polycarbonate are fixed with a clamp on metal pipes, after which a clamping bar is laid and fixed with self-tapping screws.

The ends of cellular polycarbonate are sewn to the metal frame using spot fasteners. It will only be necessary to lay an additional gasket tape under the top and bottom edges of the plastic. Of course, the honeycomb sheet is laid so that the channels are located in the longitudinal direction relative to the slope.

A polymer-aluminum tape is glued on the upper end of the honeycomb sheet, and plugs with condensate drainage holes are installed along the lower edge. One of the options for mounting polycarbonate on a metal frame is shown in the video:

How to fix monolithic polycarbonate to a metal frame

Working with molded polycarbonate plastic is both more difficult and easier. On the one hand, monolithic carbonate is very durable, and with proper installation, the rigidity of the metal frame increases significantly. On the other hand, the material is easily scratched, and most importantly, the monolith does not forgive mistakes when preparing a metal base. If the honeycomb panel can be bent or pressed down by fastening, then with a monolithic web, maximum accuracy is required, first of all, in leveling the supporting surface.

If there is no experience with cast polycarbonate sheet, then it is best to use a specialized two-strand profile. With it, you can fix plastic of unlimited thickness and width, both monolithic and honeycomb material.

This type of fastening of monolithic polycarbonate to a metal frame is not cheap, therefore it is used for cast plastics or honeycomb arches of large curvature.

Structurally, the unit consists of a rigid aluminum base with raised side edges - shelves. A U-shaped metal-rubber or silicone seal is laid on the edges. The top pressure bar is also equipped with a band seal.

When attaching plastic, the edges of a monolithic polycarbonate sheet are fixed by pressing with a self-tapping screw to the bottom of the profile. At the same time, the cast sheet retains the ability to deviate by several degrees relative to the center line of the roof. This solution ensures the tightness of the joint even under excessive load, but if the adjacent edges of two sheets are stacked with a difference of more than 1 mm, it will not be possible to ensure the tightness of the joint.

The use of silicone and rubber in the design of the connecting profile greatly simplifies the installation of monolithic polycarbonate on a metal frame and at the same time makes it vulnerable. Branded grades of sealants resist solar ultraviolet radiation well and withstand low temperatures. But even in this case, manufacturers recommend treating the rubber with silicone oil in an aerosol before assembly and during subsequent maintenance.

Due to the channel structure, honeycomb material turns out to be much more plastic, so the loss of rubber elasticity practically does not affect the strength of the roof laid on a metal frame.

Conclusion

Fastening polycarbonate to a metal frame is not a particular problem, both for experienced roofers and for beginners. When buying molded plastic in quantities sufficient to cover a gazebo or carport, construction shops offer a huge selection of all kinds of mounting profile options with detailed instructions from the manufacturer on the nuances of the work, so it’s quite difficult to get lost in the details.