Frame method for leveling walls with plasterboard. Plasterboard wall alignment: fast, cheap, neat

There was a mistake from the start - in many cases, you can save a lot family budget and the time of work. However, this becomes clear only after the completion of the complex of works on preparing the wall for leveling, when the materials are purchased.

After all, only during hanging the wall ( special operation markings of lighthouses), you can find out that you can really do without plaster or drywall on the frame - by directly attaching the drywall sheets to the wall.

The essence of the method: its advantages and disadvantages

Alignment of walls with drywall without a profile is carried out in the absence of significant differences (curvature) in height and vertical deviations on their surface. GKL in this case is attached directly to the wall with an adhesive mixture.

Depending on the curvature of the wall, the gypsum board can be attached completely to its surface (height difference up to 4 mm), or to leveling strips (the difference between the convexity of the wall and its depressions is up to 3-4 cm).

In some cases, instead of stripes, beacons are installed over the entire surface of the wall, and plasterboard sheets are glued along them (but not on them - the glue is applied to the wall). The following are used as an adhesive mixture:

• putty ("Fugenfüller" - manufacturer "Knauf");
• gypsum glue (Perlfix from Knauf);
• polyurethane foam;
• dry gypsum-based plasters ("Volma") with the addition of PVA glue - the most budgetary option.

The method has a number of serious advantages over other technological solutions:

• saves significant funds from the family budget;
• preserves the volume of the room;
• performed in a short time;
• does not require special skills - it is enough to be able to handle various tools.

Serious minus one - this method cannot diversify the interior. About partitions, shelves, niches and others design ideas should be forgotten. There are a number of relative disadvantages that have been successfully addressed:

• the problem of hanging furniture is overcome with the help of special Molly anchors;
• mechanically weak wall reinforced with double plating of gypsum board in two layers;
• mold caused by different levels vapor permeability of walls and drywall, does not appear under vinyl wallpaper.

Procedure for the implementation of work

The walls should be straightened with sheets of gypsum board without a profile in a certain sequence:

1. preparatory work;
2. cutting drywall;
3. preparation of adhesive mass;
4. fastening the sheet to the wall.

Surface preparation

Aligning the walls with drywall without a frame with your own hands begins with surface preparation. Their durability depends on how the adhesive solution adheres to the wall. It is also important to close up all defects in the bearing bases, because cracks, if they appear, tend to expand until the wall is completely destroyed, such as in aerated concrete.

Proceeding from the fact that it is necessary to ensure good adhesion (adhesion) between the adhesive solution and the wall, preparatory work is carried out in the same way as for plastering (this problem is discussed in detail in the work "Preparing surfaces for plastering").

Experience has shown that preparation should be done in stages.

1. All construction and installation work: door and window blocks, all types of cables are laid (electric, telephone, fiberglass for the Internet, etc.), a heating system is installed, etc. At the same time, there is one exception - the floor is not finished, unlike plaster, where such a technological operation is considered mandatory (SNiP requirement).

2. The walls are cleared of the old plaster mortar using a hammer drill or chisel with a hammer. The wallpaper is removed with a spatula and water, as a last resort - special washes that are prepared independently or purchased. If water and washes don't work, you can steam the old wallpaper with an iron. The paint can be removed mechanically or thermally.

3. Walls are being repaired- cracks are sealed with repair mortar, masonry joints, if necessary, deepen and are also sealed with either mortar or construction foam.

4. Various kinds of pollution are removed from the walls: grease stains, soot, etc. Oil stains are removed with oily clay, other dirt - with a metal brush. Efflorescence, fungus, mold are scraped off with a spatula, and then treated with special solutions. Concrete and brick walls it is advisable to rinse with 3-5% hydrochloric acid solution to degrease, followed by abundant washing with plain water.

5. Conditions are created for good adhesion of the adhesive mixture to the wall- concrete and brick are treated with deep penetration primers ("Betonokontakt", Typhoon Master No. 100, etc.). The work is carried out in two passes.

The first time the primer is diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio and applied to the wall with a roller, paint brush, garden sprayer, etc. The second layer - after 3-4 hours on a wet surface, intermediate drying is not needed. The primer is diluted in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Double application is necessary to saturate the wall with water to a depth of 2-3 cm.

But work can be continued only a day later, after the wall is completely dry.

Attention: priming aerated concrete is useless - the glue will come off the wall in any case. There is a slightly different technology.

6. The wall is being hung- its vertical and surface curvature are determined.

Cut drywall

Cutting a drywall sheet to size is not very difficult. Using a tape measure and a rule, cut lines are drawn on its surface with a pencil (marker). Construction knife with a replaceable blade, the cardboard is cut in the first motion. To prevent the knife from going to the side, it is better to cut along the edge of a metal ruler or rule.

With subsequent movements, the gypsum is cut by 1/3 of the thickness. Then it is placed vertically or placed on a table and breaks with a sharp movement. If the incision is made correctly, light pressure is sufficient. If there are poorly worked cuts, the work must be repeated, since there is a possibility of spoiling the narrower sheet - it will break.

The sheet, broken by the cut, is turned over and one side is lifted. In the resulting corner, the cardboard that has been preserved from the reverse side is cut with a knife.

Sheet cutting.

When cutting, you should take into account some of the nuances:

• Drywall should be 1-1.5 cm shorter than the wall in case of shrinkage. The resulting gap will be closed either with a floor covering, if work is being carried out in a new building, or with a skirting board. In extreme cases, they can be sealed with sealant or silicone;

Important: when attaching the gypsum board to the wall with adhesive mixtures, it is not recommended to allow horizontal seams. Therefore, before purchasing the material, you should measure the height of the ceiling in order to buy sheets of the appropriate length. If a horizontal seam cannot be dispensed with, then the sheets are attached in the same order as the brickwork is carried out.

• In a new building, when the floor is not laid, it is necessary to exclude the contact of the gypsum board with wet screed- gypsum is saturated with water and collapses;
• The edge of the cut is processed with a special plane - a chamfer is made on the outside of the sheet for filling the seams;
• Holes for switches and sockets are marked and cut out on the cut sheet;
• It is more convenient to cut curved lines for curly obstacles on the wall with an electric jigsaw;
• When attaching a sheet to an opening in the wall (doors, windows), it is more convenient to cut the sheet already fixed. The incision is made not from the side of the room, from the front, but from the back.

Preparation of the mixture

Putty "Fugenfüller" and gypsum glue "Perlfix" are diluted in a plastic bucket strictly according to the instructions printed on the package. Stir the solution with a trowel most likely will not work - you will have to use a construction mixer (drill or perforator with a special nozzle). It is necessary to knead until thick sour cream without any lumps.

In dry plaster, you need to add 1 part of PVA glue to 3 parts of dry mortar. Stir further in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations. Polyurethane foam is sold in tubes, ready to use.

Important: the adhesive solution retains its ability to adhere to the surface for 30 minutes after mixing, the curing process takes place within 1-1.5 hours, and the strength gain lasts 7-8 days.

Fastening sheets

How to align walls with plasterboard without a frame? Several technological solutions can be applied here. Their choice is dictated by both the type of glue and the type of material from which the wall is built.

Polyurethane foam. Attaching the gypsum board to the wall with mounting foam can be done in 2 methods. Their choice depends on the curvature of the wall. To do this, you must have at hand:

• drill;
• construction pencil (marker);
• metal brush;
• fishing line;
• construction knife;
• level (bubble level);
• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• rule 2 m;
• metallic profile for lighthouses;
• a set of spatulas;
• roulette;
• plumb line.

And materials:

• GKL sheets (ordinary and moisture resistant for the kitchen and bathroom);
• foam rubber;
• polyurethane foam;
• dowels;
• self-tapping screws;
• serpyanka;
• putty.

Several gaskets of the corresponding thickness are attached to a relatively flat wall under each gypsum board in one plane - they function as beacons (can be replaced with metal profiles). They are fastened with self-tapping screws or gypsum-based glue.

After that on inner side polyurethane foam with a low expansion coefficient is applied to the sheet - it has higher adhesion properties. Plasterboard is applied to the wall and fixed. After the foam has hardened, the sheets are additionally attached to the gaskets (beacons) with self-tapping screws.

If the wall has a large curvature, from 1-3 cm, you must proceed as follows:

1. On the cut drywall sheet, 9 marks are made, 3 in a row. The calculation is carried out from the center point. To the sides, up and down, 2/3 of the distance from the center to the edge of the sheet is counted and marked. With a drill in the marked places, the gypsum board is drilled through. The drill is selected for the diameter of the self-tapping screws, which will then be screwed into these holes;
2. Drywall is applied to the wall and places for dowels are marked through the drilled holes;
3. The wall is drilled under the dowels, which, after the end of the work, are driven into the holes;
4. 12-15 pieces of foam rubber with dimensions of 150x150x20 mm are glued to the inner side of the gypsum board (the thickness can vary depending on the curvature of the wall). A prerequisite is that even in the deepest place on the wall, the foam rubber should rest against it. Foam inserts serve as a shock absorber by adjusting the plane of the sheet. It is advisable to glue them no closer than 10 cm from the dowels;
5. We attach the gypsum board to the wall and through drilled holes screw screws with washers into the dowels;
6. We achieve a flat surface of the installed sheet vertically and horizontally. It should be leveled with the help of self-tapping screws - twisting presses the gypsum board to the wall, twisting pushes it away from it;
7. After finding the plane in the drywall, holes of 7-8 mm are drilled - through them, mounting foam will be supplied to the wall, which will glue the gypsum board. Excess foam is removed immediately;
8. After 2 days, after the foam has completely dried, the screws are removed, and the holes left are sealed with putty.

Gypsum glue (putty, dry plaster). For wall cladding with height differences up to 4 mm, using a notched trowel, the glue mixture (any) is applied to the wall in heaps of three vertical stripes(for a stronger adhesion of the gypsum board to the wall, 4 of them can be made).

The layout of the piles of adhesive mixture can be seen in the photo "Plaster putty application". The same operation can be performed on the sheet itself, but then it will have to be fastened together. If lifted alone, the sheet may break.

Pads 1-1.5 cm thick are laid to the wall (the thickness depends on the size of the gap left during cutting), gypsum boards are placed on them. With blows of a rubber mallet, he sits in place. At the same time, the plane of the sheet is constantly monitored horizontally, vertically and diagonally.

Until the glue mixture has set, you can work with the plane with a mallet until the desired result is achieved. To avoid an error in building a new wall plane, there may be an unaccounted bulge in it. Therefore, experts recommend applying more adhesive under the first sheet.

For reference: about 5 kg of dry mix or 15 kg per sheet is consumed per 1 m 2 of the wall.

For unevenness up to 2 cm, you need to use Perlfix gypsum glue. Application of other types adhesive mixture does not give the desired result - the sheet will not stay on the wall for a long time.

GKL fastening technology is the same as with a height difference of up to 4 mm. The only and main difference is that the piles of glue should be much larger, about 3-4 cm in height. When pressed against the wall, the contact patch will increase and ensure good adhesion.

Significant irregularities are removed using auxiliary strips from available material(Fiberboard, plywood, the same drywall, etc.) 10 cm wide, which are attached to the wall in recessed places. Their thickness depends on the level of curvature - the deeper in relation to the most convex point the wall surface is, the thicker the gasket.

Experts recommend making the distance between the strips 60 cm, but practice shows that the most optimal step is 40 cm. After gluing to the wall, the strips should dry well. A couple of days is enough for this. The process ends with gluing plasterboard to the wall with a putty.

How to level a wall with drywall without a profile in wooden house? The surface of the wall is leveled with a planer and spacers. Sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws. Their heads are recessed so that it is possible to fill in the fastening marks.

On the wall from aerated concrete self-tapping screws provide adhesion to drywall. With small surface errors, they are screwed into the gypsum board, and with height differences of more than 4 mm - directly into the wall. On the wall, they are located 2-3 for each pile of glue or putty. Their heads, located inside the adhesive mixture, are a good reinforcing element.

Mounting foam on aerated concrete does not hold drywall.

Sealing of seams

The process of leveling the walls with plasterboard is completed by sealing the seams and holes from the self-tapping screws with putty. For work you will need:

• two spatulas (narrow, about 10 cm wide, and wide - 30-35 cm);
• gypsum putty;
• serpyanka (fiberglass, paper tape).

Sealing of seams with a serpentine (it is a fiberglass mesh 5-8 cm wide with glue on one side):

1. Serpyanka is glued to the seam;
2. With a narrow spatula, the gypsum putty is rubbed into the seam through the glued mesh;
3. On the dried, shrinking putty, a second, leveling layer of the mortar is applied. It is leveled with a wide spatula, while the serpyanka should not protrude outward.

When using fiberglass, the order of work is different:

1. The joint is filled with a filler with a narrow spatula. It is leveled with a wide spatula, while excess solution is removed at the same time;
2. After the putty dries and shrinks, the fiberglass is glued to the seam with PVA glue diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 1;
3. 30 minutes after attaching the fiberglass tape to the gypsum board, a finishing operation is carried out with a wide spatula - a leveling layer of the solution is applied.

Final works

Under the wallpaper, the entire surface of the drywall in mandatory putty with a thin layer of putty, so that when changing the wallpaper not to damage the layer of cardboard that holds the gypsum. This type of work is not performed for painting.

Related Videos

Drywall is deservedly considered one of the most popular materials for. Usage drywall sheets(GKL) has a number of advantages over other materials. Among its advantages, it should be noted the possibility of installation in a short time, relatively small cash costs for the acquisition necessary materials, as well as the fact that it is an environmentally friendly and non-flammable material. There are two ways of attaching the gypsum board to the walls. The first method implies a frame made of metal profiles, pre-made on the wall. The second - allows you to align the walls with plasterboard without a frame.

How can you mount gypsum board on the walls without building a frame? It's very simple - the gypsum boards are glued to the walls using a special glue for drywall. In the assortment of almost every company engaged in the production of construction chemicals, there is a similar type of glue. This mounting technology also saves a little space when compared to frame method, which is a big plus, especially in small spaces... Let us dwell in more detail on how to align the walls of the gypsum board with our own hands using gluing.

Required tools

To carry out the work, you will need the following tools:

Tools for the job

• building rule;
• water level;
• plumb line;
• cord;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• drywall knife;
• rubber hammer;
• container for mixing glue;
• notched and ordinary spatula;
• mixer;
• jigsaw;
• puncher;
• screwdriver.

Preparatory stage

At this stage, it is necessary to carefully study the future base for gluing drywall. The surfaces must be dry, free from freezing, not covered with lime plaster, and free from oil and grease stains. It is necessary to lay in advance all the necessary communication lines (electrical, water and others), which are planned to be hidden inside. After that, using a water level, a plumb line and a cord, measure the degree of unevenness of the surfaces. It should be borne in mind that each wall is a separate plane, it has its own both the most protruding part and the deepest depression.

The difference between these values ​​will determine the degree of surface roughness. This indicator will be important for choosing a method of how to level the walls by gluing drywall, which will be discussed later.

Wall priming

Having performed the operations described earlier, you can safely proceed to processing the base with a special primer, which will ensure reliable adhesion of the glued sheet to the wall. For brick or concrete walls deep penetration soil is used. It comes in the form ready-made solution or in the form of a concentrate, which must be diluted with water. Usually, the purchase of a concentrated solution is cheaper, and there are no differences in quality. The process of treating the walls with soil must be carried out very carefully, without leaving any missing spots. After applying the primer, let it dry for a day.

Material selection

Before starting work, decide on the choice of material. It should be borne in mind that GCRs differ among themselves in their properties, dimensions and thickness. For installation on the wall, plates with a thickness of 12.5 mm are used. The height of drywall is 2.5 and 3 m, the choice of size depends on the height of the ceilings. In rooms with high humidity moisture resistant gypsum boards are used. There are also fire-resistant plates, they are installed in places with an increased degree fire hazard... Having chosen the material, familiarize yourself with the methods of carrying out these works.

The choice of the method of gluing the gypsum board

Depending on the degree of unevenness of the walls to be repaired, the method of work is selected. There are three main methods for attaching drywall to the wall with glue with your own hands:

Applying glue to drywall

1. if the curvature of the wall does not exceed 5 mm, then installation can be carried out on a thin layer of adhesive, which is applied to the back of the plasterboard with a notched trowel. With this method of attachment, glue is applied along the entire perimeter of the sheet and in the form of two longitudinal stripes in the center with an interval of about 40 cm;
2. for wall irregularities ranging from 5 to 20 mm, the glue should be applied with a trowel or spatula pointwise every 30 - 35 cm over the entire surface of the sheet. The size of the area for applying the glue should be 10 - 15 cm in diameter, and the layer thickness should be 25 - 30 mm;
3. when the difference between the bulges and depressions on the surface to be leveled reaches 4 cm, it is necessary to first install the so-called "beacons" on the wall before gluing. These are strips of drywall 10 cm wide, they are fastened vertically with glue at intervals of about 40 cm. Moreover, they must be placed in the same plane in relation to each other and observe strict verticality, control must be carried out using a water level, a plumb line and a cord. Then, when the glue is dry, you can mount the drywall boards directly onto the installed beacons.

Features of the work

The following instruction contains points that you need to know when carrying out this type of finish:

Gluing process

After finishing the marking and cutting of the material, you can knead the glue. It is more convenient to apply the adhesive solution on a horizontally lying sheet. GKL must be placed near the place where the installation takes place. It is inconvenient to carry out this operation on your own, so invite an assistant.

Sticking sheets on the wall

After applying the glue to the sheet, you need to put the lower part of the sheet on a piece of drywall, previously placed under the place where the installation is made. Then, in a smooth motion, lift the sheet to a vertical position. Focusing on the lines drawn on the ceiling and floor, carry out the installation of the sheet, controlling the process with the help of a rule and a level. You can tap the sheets to be mounted with your hands or with a rubber hammer.

GKL gluing is usually started from one of the corners of the room. The first sheet is immediately attached, pressing it close to cross wall... Then mount next sheet, pressing it to the first, making sure that both sheets are in the same plane and are strictly vertical in level. It is necessary to ensure that a gap does not form at the junction of the sheets. Fix correct location sheet using shims and wedges, slipping them under the bottom end of the sheet. When squeezing excess glue onto the surface, remove it with a cloth or spatula. Constant application building regulation check for holes and depressions on the surface, and remove them promptly.

It should be borne in mind that with excessive pressure on the gypsum board, a depression can form, which can be eliminated only by tearing off the mounted plate and reapplying the glue. Therefore, you have to act very carefully. Thus, step by step, the whole room is gradually pasted over.

There is also another technique for carrying out the work. If the surface to be treated is rather long, installation can be done as follows. The first and last drywall sheet is glued to the wall. Then a cord is pulled along the top and bottom between them. And guided by the stretched rope, the rest of the gypsum boards are installed.

To calm your own conscience after gluing, it is recommended to fix the plates with dowels and screws. This operation is carried out after the final drying of the glue. Each sheet is drilled in 4 - 5 places along with the wall, and additional fastening is made with the help of dowels and screws. Subsequently, the holes remaining on the surface are covered with putty.

From the above, it follows that leveling the walls with drywall without a frame is one of the most effective ways carrying out this type of repair. An undoubted advantage This technology has a high speed of work, as well as relatively low costs for the purchase of materials.

For many years, experts have been using material such as drywall to level walls. He deserves a lot positive feedback, and for good reason. With its help, perfectly flat surfaces are created, and this is with its relative not high cost.

It is not in vain that the masters who are engaged in repairs choose. And it's not only a small disguise of bad plaster, but with the help of a correctly installed structure, you can achieve absolutely even walls if they come with differences.

Drywall, like a finishing material, has a lot of advantages and disadvantages:

• Does not contain toxins;
• Fireproof;
• Environmentally friendly;
• Does not contain synthetic additives;
• No need to use plaster - only a minimum of putty;
• Easily disguises communications;
• Allows for thermal insulation and noise reduction;
• Easy to install;
• Easy to cut and bend;
• Poorly interacts with water - deteriorates;
• It is necessary to strictly observe the installation technology in accordance with GOST;
• Further finishing is desirable;
• Cannot be stored horizontally.

Despite all the shortcomings, it is drywall that suitable material for finishing uneven walls.

Is it possible to put drywall on uneven walls

Of course, you can make the walls even in other ways, but it is drywall that is the most optimal material for this task. The main difference is that the assembly of the frame from the profile and the installation of the sheets themselves are so simple that even people without skills can cope with them.

Now there are several types of it:

• GKL (simple);
• GKLO (with fire protection);
• GKLV (with protection from water);
• GKLVO (with protection from fire and water).

This variety allows you to use plasterboard structures in all rooms. True, in the bathroom and kitchen, finishing is still not recommended - prolonged contact with water spoils the sheets, and under the influence of steam, drywall warps. Drywall, of course, has a soundproofing function, but not to the extent that manufacturers claim. Therefore, it is better to lay noise-suppressing material or insulation in the structure, which also dampens sound well.

The order of work: how to level the walls with plasterboard

Still, drywall is a capricious material and requires a certain sequence of actions. Moreover, it is so easy to install that it is quite easy to sheathe the walls with your own hands.

To complete the work we need:

• Drywall sheets;
• Ceiling and wall profiles;
• Self-tapping screws;
• Level;
• Dowels;
• Roulette;
• Scissors for metal;
• Sharp knife;
• Straight hangs;
• Pencil (pen, marker);
• Screwdriver;
• Finishing materials.

First, you need to make a markup - select the most protruding point, and start calculations from it. The guides, that is, those that are profiles on the walls, are attached at a distance of one meter from each other using dowels.

And the ceiling ones are fixed with direct suspensions. It is necessary to check the strength - the structure must be well fixed. Communications are hidden in the resulting metal box, sound insulation and insulation are placed. Drywall is cut in accordance with the dimensions, and then fastened with self-tapping screws. The seams are carefully putty. After drying, they are treated with sandpaper, and then the wall can be further finished.

Recommendations on how to level the wall with drywall without a profile

It is possible to sheathe walls without the costly installation of a profile frame. This procedure is much easier, takes less time and spends less money... But the strength will decrease, strong irregularities cannot be corrected that way. But if big disadvantages no, then this method is perfect.

For work you will need:

• Drywall;
• Glue, for example, "Perlfix";
• Putty;
• Seam tapes;
• Primer;
• Pencil;
• Roulette.

You need to prepare the glue in no more than ten minutes - it hardens quickly. It is applied to the back of the sheet in the form of small piles or strips, and then the sheet is pressed. Remove excess glue. By the way, the position of the sheet can be corrected while the glue is not frozen. Seams are putty with tape. When everything is dry, you can finish the walls further.

Expert advice: how to level the walls in the bathroom with drywall

Thanks to modern developments, special sheets of drywall have appeared - moisture resistant. You can recognize them simply by their green color. They can be used in the bathroom, but it is still worth remembering that even such drywall with hydrophobic additives deteriorates from prolonged and direct exposure to water.

There are several nuances to consider when working in the bathroom:

• If the installation is carried out with a frame, then it is necessary to add another layer of finish where there is the highest probability of mechanical damage;
• For tiling, a two-layer underlay is recommended everywhere;
• It is necessary to strengthen the waterproofing of the room;
• Good ventilation is needed.

Installation technology does not differ in any way from finishing in a regular room.

It is worth paying attention to communications. Many people do not like that pipes spoil appearance bathroom. An excellent solution there will be an installation of a box made of gypsum plasterboard, which will hide all the things that are objectionable to the eye, but at the same time leave the opportunity for finishing, including tiles.

You need to make a box immediately after installing all communications. The principle is simple: marking is done, profiles are mounted, drywall is attached to them. To smooth the joints, soft corners of a suitable color are sometimes used.

You need to be very careful about further finishing. Even reinforced drywall will not withstand too heavy finishing materials, therefore, it is better to choose a tile that is not too large.

All materials must be resistant to steam and moisture, then the finish will last longer and will not lose its attractive appearance.

Spraying the crevices with an antifungal spray can prevent mold. You can also treat some surfaces with water-repellent materials.

How can walls be leveled other than drywall

Aligning the walls requires a special approach depending on the degree of unevenness.

In addition to drywall, there are a number of materials that perfectly cope with this task:

• Putty;
• Plaster;
• Wooden slabs and plates;
• Gypsum-based mixtures (Rotband type).

The putty is used for local leveling, or for masking small imperfections in the walls - a thick layer will not hold, it will creep. For larger-scale works, Rotband mixtures are used - according to their properties, they are like a putty, but they serve for leveling no worse than ordinary cement plaster.

The plaster itself is a proven way of leveling even the most difficult irregularities over the years. For this, you can use a high-quality finish "on the beacons", that is, using metal profiles.

The easiest way to use the so-called "dry" materials, that is, drywall, wood and even siding. They successfully mask minor flaws in the walls, but thanks to the possibility of mounting on a frame, they will make the room absolutely even and proportional.

Do not forget that the material for leveling the walls should be selected in accordance with the further decoration. For example, wood panels do not have to be painted or covered with wallpaper - it is enough to cover them with an antiseptic colorless varnish.

Competent leveling of the wall with plasterboard (video)

Aligning the walls with plasterboard is the most optimal and relevant option. In addition to ease of installation, drywall can be purchased at any hardware store at adequate and affordable prices. There is a choice of sheet size, thickness, and resistance to water and / or fire, making this material suitable for use and operation in almost any environment.

Aligning the walls with plasterboard allows for short term tidy them up without exhausting plastering.

GKL is used with pleasure by both professionals and home craftsmen.

Methods for leveling walls with plasterboard sheets

• frameless;
• wireframe.

Technology frameless way alignment consists in gluing drywall sheets with your own hands to the surface. For this purpose, a special glue is produced.

This is done quickly, the work is not particularly difficult.

When leveling with the frame method, drywall is attached to the frame, pre-mounted on the wall surface.

For its manufacture, you can use a special metal profile or mount it from wooden bars and slats.

This technology is more expensive in financially and takes more time if you do it yourself.

But sometimes it's the only thing possible variant aligning the walls (if, for example, the surface is so uneven that it is impossible to glue the gypsum board on it with your own hands).

Frameless method: technology for performing work

In this way, the load-bearing walls are leveled.

They start work only after all work has been completed related to the replacement or repair of utilities (water supply, sewerage, electrical wiring, gas).

This is especially true for the bathroom, toilet and kitchen. Only flooring do it yourself after completing the installation of drywall.

Aligning the walls with drywall without a frame can be done in one of three ways, depending on the degree of their unevenness:

• Option 1 - used for small irregularities and differences (no more than 4 mm). Plasterboard is glued directly to the wall using Fugenfüller gypsum plaster. It is applied along the entire perimeter (in a thin layer) with longitudinal beds;
• Option 2 - suitable for pasting walls with irregularities up to 20 mm. Plasterboard is glued with "Perlfix". The glue is applied pointwise (in "piles") with a step of 300 to 350 mm;
• Option 3 is the most difficult way... It is used for surface irregularities up to 40 mm. In this case, 10 mm wide plasterboard strips are pre-glued to the wall. Then the gypsum board is glued to them using Fugenfüller putty.

Preparing walls for pasting

Walls to be leveled with your own hands using gypsum plasterboard are cleaned of plaster, dirt and dust. Wet walls be sure to dry. Fat stains are removed.

All sorts of protrusions, influxes must be brought down.

If they are built from a material that absorbs moisture, then after cleaning, they must be covered with a primer with their own hands (for example, "Rikombigrunt"), otherwise they will absorb the glue.

Concrete walls have poor adhesion: to strengthen it, the surface should be treated with a primer "Betonokontakt".

Pasting

The process of leveling the walls by pasting takes place in several stages:

• Step 1: Identify surface irregularities using a level, rule or plumb line. At this stage, the deviations of the walls from the vertical are also checked. Based on the result of the check, the method of gluing the gypsum board is selected;
• Stage 2: do-it-yourself marks are applied to the prepared wall using a plumb line;
• Stage 3: drywall is tried on and cut out. At this stage, all the works are performed on the sheets. required holes under switches and sockets.

The adhesive should be applied to the back of the drywall with a spatula.

From the floor level to the sheet (its lower edge), there must be a guaranteed gap of at least 8-12 mm in size. The same gap is left between the ceiling and top sheet GKL.

This condition is ensured by temporary spacers that are not removed until the glue dries.

Subsequently, all cracks can be sealed with drywall scraps or filled with sealant.

For alignment small areas- you can use "self-made" glue by mixing water, putty and PVA glue (about a liter of glue is required for 13-15 kg of putty).

Aligning walls with a wireframe method

The frame method is good in that it does not require much preparation of the wall surface for it. The main thing is that they are dry.

Especially it concerns wooden houses: if you close the GKL wet tree, it will rot. It is important that during the execution of work, the air in the room is dry.

When the air temperature is less than + 10 ° С, it is not recommended to work with drywall.

Frame installation

To create a frame, you can use a metal profile:

• rack-mount - if the wall is too curved, or it is planned to hide any communications under the gypsum board;
• ceiling - in all other cases.

First of all, a line is marked with your own hands on the ceiling and floor, along which the guide profile will be attached.

This can be done with a dry, easily removable paint cord. The guide profiles are fixed by means of dowels, with a pitch of 500 mm.

Rack or ceiling profile attached to the wall with special hangers. For 2-3 meters in height, 3 suspensions are required (the step of fixing the profile is 1 meter).

Racks are installed every 600 mm. But if plasterboard cladding with heavy tiles is subsequently provided, then the step of the vertical profile is reduced to 400 mm.

To stiffen the frame structure, horizontal lintels can be installed, but this is not a mandatory requirement.

Plasterboard sheets are screwed to the frame elements with self-tapping screws. Moreover, the screw must enter the gypsum board at an angle. The fixing step is about 25 cm.

Each subsequent row of gypsum board is mounted with a shift relative to the previous one by 500 mm (so that the seams are staggered).

At the end of the installation of sheets of gypsum board (by the way, they are also called dry plaster), the joints are glued with a serpyanka tape and covered with putty.

As a result, a "pie" is obtained at the seams, consisting of two layers of putty (lower and upper) and one - reinforcing mesh (middle);

The caps of the self-tapping screws must be putty.

Features of leveling walls in bathrooms

To level the walls of the bathroom, you can also use gypsum plasterboard: just not ordinary, but moisture resistant. It contains antifungal and water-repellent components.

Usually the walls are aligned in the bathroom. wireframe... But if they are even, you can put the gypsum board on glue.

Despite being moisture resistant, drywall remains sensitive to humidity in the bathroom. Its durability depends on the efficiency of the ventilation in the room.

There is little hope for a natural (standard) hood.

If you have chosen GKL to tidy up the bathroom walls, then you will have to install an electric fan: it can work in automatic or controlled mode.

It is not easy to align the walls in the bathroom with drywall: it requires sufficient experience, to know some of the subtleties of the process.

Plasterboard wall alignment is a tricky task. If you have never encountered such work before, it is better to turn to professionals.

As a result, your bathroom will be leveled with high quality, and you will receive a durable renovation and a lot of positive emotions.

Using drywall sheets, you can level even the most hopelessly curved wall, which for a long time haunted you and whose work you were so afraid to take on. The main advantage of the material is its ease of use. It is possible to carry out finishing work on leveling the walls using drywall much faster than other known methods. The panels have a fairly high level of thermal insulation and fire resistance. The material is durable enough that it can be used on almost any surface. Working with drywall is quite simple, it is easily trimmed, has large area coating, which allows its installation in a fairly short time.

Methods for leveling the walls of the gypsum board

Today, there are two main ways of attaching drywall:

1. The first way is to attach to the frame. To do this, using wooden block or a metal profile, a rigid frame is erected, which will be the basis for drywall. Sheets are attached to it with the help of small self-tapping screws.
2. The second method is less popular, but simpler. Using special glue, drywall sheets are attached directly to the wall itself. This method allows you to finish the premises with the least loss of usable area.

Methods for attaching drywall to the wall

Both methods of fastening are quite reliable, and their combination is not excluded. Read about the advantages and disadvantages of each of them ...

Fastening drywall using a frame

If the walls of the room have significant curvatures, then it is better in this case to use a leveling frame. As mentioned above, both a wooden beam and a metal profile can serve as a material for its manufacture.

Usage timber frame has some disadvantages:

• The timber cannot be used in rooms with high humidity. Also, it itself must be made of dried wood, this will exclude its deformation and twisting during the drying process, which would undoubtedly lead to the appearance of cracks and bulges on the wall;
• The frame assembly process is more laborious, which significantly slows down the installation time;
• It is only necessary to use wood of high-quality sawing, which does not have curvature and differences in thickness. Such material will cost more, however, the result will be correspondingly;

Since this method of making the frame is not popular, we will not dwell on it in detail. Let us note only the main things to which you should pay attention.

Observing verticality, two bars are attached to the wall in opposite corners of the room. Threads are pulled between them, along which the remaining bars are exposed. The bars are fastened using a step in 600 mm., this will allow you to use a standard drywall sheet without trimming.

Installation of a frame from a profile

To level the walls in the house using a metal profile for work - optimal solution, allowing you to build a reliable and sufficient solid construction capable of withstanding significant loads. All work is carried out in the following order:

Fastening UD (UD) profile

1. First of all, with a pencil, mark the attachment points of the profile. All lines of the ceiling, floor and walls should converge into one single line.
2. After that, the wall is attached to the markup. UD cross-sectional profile 28x27 mm... and is attached along the entire drawn contour. You can use a dowel for fastening « quick installation» 6x40 mm. which are clogged every 50-60 cm.
3. After installation, using a plumb line, we check the result, the upper and lower profiles must match, so we get a perfectly vertical plane.

Fastening UD profile along the perimeter

Important! Wall mount UD profile on the side walls is not a prerequisite, their presence only on the floor and ceiling will be sufficient.

Mount CD (CD) profile

1. After the frame of the profiles is ready, you can install it into it vertical posts made of galvanized rail CD profile section 27x60 mm.
2. The CD profile is fastened using a special screw "bug" with a drill at the end (see fig. 1)... The presence of a drilling tip allows the screw to freely pass through the metal walls of the profile, reliably holding them together.

Fig 1. Required items for the manufacture of a frame for drywall

The first two profiles are installed strictly vertically at the base of the walls at a distance from them in 10-20 mm... Between them, in the places where the suspensions are attached, nylon threads are pulled, which will be a guide for correct installation the remaining guide profiles. This will give us a perfectly flat plane of the wall.

The step of fastening the profile should be equal 600 mm... between themselves. It is important to remember that this step is measured from the center of the profile, not from its edge. As many have already guessed, this step is not accidental, it allows you to fix drywall without trimming. Width standard sheet drywall is 1200 mm., so it will be secured at the edges and in the center.

Installation of guide profiles along the threads at the attachment points of the hangers.

The profile is fastened using special galvanized metal hangers. They are strips perforated along the edges, with reinforced stiffeners in the central part. (see fig. 1).

During installation, they are bent into a letter "NS", and having drilled holes in the wall are attached to the dowel through special holes. The perforated ends are bent to the walls of the profile and, by placing it along the threads, they are fixed to the screw.

Fastening the profile using a U-shaped hanger.

Video tutorial on frame installation

Fastening drywall sheets to the frame

Aligning the walls with plasterboard is approaching the final stage, it remains only to fasten the sheets and qualitatively seal all the joints. The installation scheme is quite simple, however, given the considerable weight of the sheets, it is better to get a partner, it will be much easier to work this way. A special hardened self-tapping screw 35 mm long is used as a fastening element. ...

Having previously adjusted in height and armed with a screwdriver, we put the first sheet starting from the corner of the room. In order not to destroy the fragile sheets of drywall, it is necessary to set a torsional force limiter on the screwdriver.

If the frame is installed correctly, the edge of the sheet opposite from the wall should be exactly in the middle of the second guide strip. The self-tapping screw is screwed into the pot every 15-20 cm... around the entire perimeter of the sheet.

In a similar way, sheets are attached to adjacent and opposite walls... The joining angle of the sheets should be straight without creating a space between them.

Joint corner of drywall sheets.

Plaster of joints and self-tapping screws of drywall

In order to prepare the sheets for finishing, the joint seams and caps from the screws must be masked with a layer of putty. For this, the seams are reinforced with self-adhesive tape and covered with starting putty.

Reinforcement of the joints will prevent cracking of the hardened putty material during vibration of the walls and temperature changes.

All sheets have special grooves at the edges, this allows you to apply the composition of the putty without disturbing general level surface.

The sweat from the self-tapping screw is masked by applying a small amount of putty to it, after which the excess composition is removed with a spatula.

After the starting layer has hardened, using an emery cloth (P100), the seams are brought to ideal smooth surface... Depending on the cladding, the walls are either covered with a finishing layer of putty or left like that. For example, the walls can be left in this form under the tiles, but the presence of finishing necessarily.

Aligning walls without a frame

To fasten drywall sheets without a frame, special glue is used, which can be purchased at any hardware store. The optimal application of this method is to use it in rooms with a small area.

Important! Before starting work, the surface of the wall must be thoroughly prepared. They must be free of any substance that might prevent the adhesive from adhering well to the wall.

To do this, you need to wash off all the dust from the surfaces of the walls and, after letting them dry for a couple of hours, apply a layer of primer on them.

In order to prevent the diluted glue from drying out, it is advisable to mark all sheets in advance and cut them to the required height.

It is important to remember that after installing all the sheets, between the ceiling and the floor, for a better adhesion of the glue, there must be a gap along the 10-20 mm... from each side.

After everything is ready for work, diluted glue in small piles with a step of about 30 cm... applied to the back of a drywall sheet.

The sheet must be carefully lifted and installed on substrates specially prepared for the technical gap. Lightly tapping a rubber mallet using the level and rule of the long 2 m., the sheets are installed in a strictly vertical position.

We perform a similar procedure with each sheet, precisely adjusting them to each other. This forms a solid, ideal smooth wall without a single screw. It remains to give time for the glue to harden, and proceed to puttying the joint seams.

Video lesson of fixing drywall to glue

Summing up

Aligning walls with drywall sheets - simple, not expensive and enough effective method get rid of crooked walls. Using this material You can transform the walls of almost any room, from the garage to the children's room.

The main thing in this matter is not to rush, but to do everything in stages, as described in this article. The final result your work done should be - perfectly flat walls.