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If you study the section on FORUMHOUSE " Homemade machines, tools and mechanisms”, then you can find “1000 and 1 option” fixtures for a self-builder, which you can’t buy in a store. It can be a stand for a "grinder", for accurate and fast cutting metal profile, a mini-lathe, as well as all kinds of armature and pipe benders and planers for aerated concrete. An interesting multifunctional and inexpensive sawing table, which was created by a portal member with the nickname id215711128.
id215711128
- How to make a saw table for circular saw.
- What materials and details are needed for this.
Universal saw table for circular saw
So, at id215711128 There is a powerful circular, which is already more than 20 years old. Saw cutting depth 65 mm. During its operation, it turned out that it is difficult to achieve high-quality sawing of wood with its help. Reasons: the settings for the angle of inclination of the disk and the depth of cut are constantly lost. The sole of the saw is made of thin metal, as a result it bends, and the geometry is not maintained when cutting the workpiece.
First, the user went the standard way - he began to modify the saw. He made devices for maintaining the perpendicularity of the cut. I put wedges to maintain the depth of the cut. I built the saw into the table, as it is, but the frail M4 thread, on the circular racks, weakened and each new passage had to be reconfigured. Despite the difficulty of sawing, id215711128 made 5 casing boxes. The "accident" that gave impetus to the construction of a multifunctional sawing table occurred when a craftsman was making sidewalls for casing a door.
id215711128
I sawed a two-meter beam. I already chose quarters, cut locks, it remains to choose longitudinal groove designed to fix the product on the wall. I made several cuts with a saw, and when the workpiece was almost ready, the circular lost its depth. I almost sawed the beam in half, completely ruining the part. That's it, I realized that I had enough of these "dances with a tambourine", and I need a normal sawing table.
First, the user bought plywood for the countertop at the construction hypermarket. Then developed technical task what requirements the table should meet. So:
- The maximum possible overhang of the saw blade is required.
- The saw blade must have an adjustable tilt angle - 90-45 degrees and a reach of 0 - max with reliable fixation of the specified parameters.
- Parts of a large section should be placed on the table, so the dimensions of the table are 1.22 x1 m.
- Need an adjustable and securely fixed parallel stop, as well as adjustable horizontal and vertical clamps for workpieces.
- The table should be multifunctional, with the possibility of further installation of a router and an electric jigsaw.
On the topic "universal carpentry fixtures" we recommend reading the articles: and.
Having defined the requirements id215711128 I thought about what to make the mechanism for raising and lowering the saw. The choice fell on a car screw rhombic jack.
But, having gone to the store for bolts, studs and nuts, the user forgot to buy it there. Because I didn’t want to go back, the do-it-yourselfer decided to replace the jack with a clamp, from which he cut off everything superfluous and welded the right one.
The design of the lift turned out to be simple and reliable.
Next came the turn of the circular upgrade. From it, the user removed the sole, the cover of the saw blade, because. it interfered, and disk protection. The disassembly of the saw was carried out with the expectation that, if necessary, it could be reassembled. The saw was installed on a lift.
The tilt of the saw is carried out using a homemade rotary mechanism made from studs and boards.
According to the do-it-yourselfer, because of the metric thread, the handles have to be rotated by a large number of revolutions, but with infrequent reconfigurations of the machine, this is not critical.
The parallel stop has a length of 1220 mm. To prevent shifting of the far edge of the workpiece when sawing it, the stop is equipped with an additional lock.
All parts are well matched to each other and precisely fixed on the table, because the geometry at the exit of the sawn workpiece depends on this.
id215711128
Tests of the machine showed that everything works as it should. The angles of inclination and the depth of the cut do not go astray.
At this stage, the user took time out and thought about how to upgrade the machine for sawing large workpieces. It came to mind to make a carriage, but it will “eat” about 1 cm of the cut depth. This can be critical, because casing parts are made of timber and have dimensions of 1.5-2 m, with a section of 10x20 cm. In addition, such a timber weighs a lot, and it is inconvenient to push it on the table. Exit - the workpiece stands still, and the saw itself moves.
id215711128
I remembered that when they sawed plywood for me in a construction hypermarket, they did it with such a “cunning” machine, the saw blade of which travels from top to bottom and from left to right. On reflection, I decided to make a cart with rollers and straighteners along which the saw would move.
To make the fixture, the user bought casters for a furniture trolley and a 5x5 cm corner. First id215711128 I decided to put only the lower and horizontal rollers. But, because due to the application of effort when moving the trolley, a distortion may result, the master put additional rollers on the trolley that rest against the lower surface of the tabletop.
Those. the trolley is fixed in three directions. This provides high precision her movements.
During the "break-in" of the table, it was necessary to adjust the alignment of the direction of the cut and the direction of movement of the trolley.
To do this, washers were placed under the fastening of the guide corners.
Having adjusted the machine, the do-it-yourselfer tested it by sawing a board with a section of 20x5 cm.
With a blade stroke of 260 mm, this was enough for precise sawing of the workpiece.
d215711128
Based on a simple circular, I managed to do sawing and trimming machine with the possibility of longitudinal and transverse cutting. You can cut either by rigidly fixing the circular saw, moving the workpiece, or by moving the saw, with the workpiece clamped by clamps with adjustable depth and inclination of the disk. I plan to further refine the machine to make it even more functional and more convenient. For this you need to put:
- Quick-release fixed stop with a protractor for trimming workpieces at any desired angle when moving the saw.
- Movable protractor for handling small wooden products with a fixed circular.
The user also installed an eccentric clamp to fix the carriage in any of the positions of the saw.
IN household often there is not enough circular saw, especially if started overhaul or construction. Not everyone can afford industrial products - they are too expensive. But you can make a circular yourself, using the materials that are available in the household.
Design - the main nodes, their purpose
A do-it-yourself stationary circular saw is created with advancement in several possible directions:
- adaptation of an existing hand tool, using the motor and circular saw for new possibilities;
- improvement of industrial products to expand functionality;
- assembly from separate parts, made mainly in-house.
A stationary circular machine includes several main components: a table, a shaft, an engine, and some others, the characteristics of which are not so important.
The table serves for fixing woodworking mechanisms. It can be assembled completely from metal, which is preferable, especially for machine tools with a large engine. Also made from wood nice tables for the circular. But it must be borne in mind that the countertop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the wood will soon wear out. Tables must be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding a considerable load during work. The surface is made perfectly flat; protective shields must be installed above the rotating parts.
For a homemade circular, an engine from washing machine. Portable tools are less suitable: their collector motors are designed only for short-term work. They have very high speeds, low efficiency, they are afraid of clogging. You can use a three-phase electric motor, but if there is no 380 V on the farm, you will need to purchase capacitors to make it work from 220 V.
The most responsible node is the shaft. Use ready-made, if available, or machined from round metal. Work for lathe perform in one setting, then, together with the working bodies, they check the centering. Even the minimum beat is unacceptable, otherwise it will become stronger in work, at which it is unacceptable to work. On the shaft provide seats: under the circular saw and under the pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for planer knives.
Basic parameters - calculation of power, revolutions, transmission
Characteristics circular saw, motor and the maximum thickness of lumber that can be cut are interconnected. On the purchased circular disk, the maximum speed for which it is designed is indicated. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The power of the motor influences the maximum allowable sawtooth diameter. The diameter must be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise sawing will be difficult. It is believed that for sawing materials with a thickness of 100 mm, you need a motor of at least 1 kW of power.
The transmission is made only by a V-belt - if foreign objects get under the saw, the material is jammed, the belt slips on the pulleys. Traumatism in such cases is practically excluded. It is important to choose the right gear ratio. We take into account two indicators: engine speed and the maximum allowable number of revolutions of the circular saw. We calculate the required diameters of the pulleys. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the engine, and a smaller one on the shaft for the circular to increase the number of revolutions.
The revolutions of the shaft with a circular saw are as many times greater than the revolutions of the engine, as the diameter of its pulley is smaller than the diameter of the pulley on the engine.
Woodworking machine - a capital product for the home
For working with wood in large volumes, it is better to have a machine that allows you to cut the material, plan, choose a quarter. Requires a sufficiently powerful electric motor, hard table. We present a structure made of steel angle and sheet steel. It provides a cutting depth of 60 mm, it is possible to plan boards with a width of 200 mm. A three-phase motor 1.1 kW, 2700 rpm is used. Capacitors are required for connection to 220V.
1 - machine frame; 2 - panel; 3 - starter; 4 - a device for adjusting the height; 5.7 - desktop of two halves; 6 - base; 8 - engine; 9 - platform; 10 - studs M10; 11 - circular disk; 12 - shaft; 13 - stops of the lifting mechanism; 14 - driven pulley; 15 - belt; 16 - drive pulley; 17 - switch.
The working table has dimensions of 700×300 mm. In the drawing we see that the height of the entire structure is 350 mm. The height is insufficient for comfortable work, the circular will have to be installed on an additional platform, it weighs only 35 kg. You can increase the length and width, increase the height up to 1200 mm. We adjust the rest of the sizes to fit them, but design features remain unchanged.
First, we make the bed frame from steel corners 25 × 25 mm. If we are not going to increase the height, we make another same lower frame. For a frame with a greater height, first we weld four legs from the same corners to the upper frame, and then we tie them at a height of 15–20 cm from the bottom. The lower frame has slots for the motor platform locking bolts. Two studs are welded to the back side of the platform, which go into the holes on the back of the lower frame. Tightening the studs, tighten the belts, then lock the platform by tightening the nuts on the studs that go into the grooves.
To adjust the height of the table in relation to the saw, we use a simple lifting mechanism. It consists of racks, in the upper part of which we cut grooves at an angle of 45 °. In total, eight racks are needed - four on each side. We weld them to the frame with grooves located in mirror image. We attach the crossbars to the outer racks. In the middle of each of them we drill holes, weld nuts. Threaded shafts will move along them to control the rise.
At the end, they rest against the racks welded to the drawers assembled from the corners of 75 × 50 mm. On the side, we weld the studs into them opposite the grooves for the adjusting mechanism. The table consists of two equal halves and is attached to the sides with countersunk bolts. The adjustment mechanism works like this:
- loosen the nuts on the racks;
- turn the screw that presses the stop, raising or lowering the table;
- tighten the stud nuts;
- perform a similar adjustment for the second half of the working surface.
The design can be simplified without installing the adjusting shaft. Raise and lower the table manually. If you assemble the table not from two halves, but as a solid one, you will need only four racks for the lifting mechanism.
Hand-held circular saw - turning into a stationary one
It is easy to make a stationary one from a manual circular saw, expanding its capabilities. The first thing you need is a table. Comfortable material Finnish plywood will serve, which, unlike ordinary plywood, is laminated - the blanks slide well over the surface during processing. She's thick enough to take big weight, moisture resistant, well amenable to processing. You can use ordinary plywood 20 mm, only it needs to be painted, but it is better to cover sheet steel or textolite.
It must be understood that the depth of cut will decrease by the thickness of the cover. You will need a large diameter disc so as not to reduce functionality compared to a portable tool. We make the dimensions of the tabletop sufficient so that the workpiece fits in width. It should be added that an electric planer and a jigsaw can be additionally strengthened on a wide table, which will make the machine universal.
Using drawings and explanations, it is not difficult to make accessories for a circular saw that will expand its capabilities.
We mark a rectangle of the required dimensions on a sheet of plywood, cut it out, process the edges. With the sole we apply a hand circular to the surface and mark the attachment points with a pencil. We make a slot for a circular saw. You can slightly deepen the attachment point using a cutter, but not more than 10 mm, so as not to weaken the countertop. This manufacturing method will bring the depth of cut closer to the circular saw indicated in the passport.
We make a frame (tsargi) from the boards, which we will install from below to strengthen the structure. We fasten four boards into a box, glue it to the countertop, securing it with clamps. Through the table we screw screws into the boards. The holes for them are countersinked on top so that the heads of the self-tapping screws are hidden. We fasten the legs to the kings of the stationary saw, better with bolts with washers and nuts. The table should be provided with additional rigidity, so we make spacers at the bottom of the legs.
We make a restrictive bar equal to the length of the working surface. In it we drill two grooves perpendicular to the disk, in which the bar will move and be fixed at a certain distance from the saw blade. It remains to make changes to the control system: we fix the control button in the on state with electrical tape. We install a socket connected to the network on the drawer. In the break of the wire going to the saw, we mount the switch.
Some moments of the execution of home-made devices
No matter how well the circular is made, individual errors can lead to the fact that its performance will be limited. This concerns, at first glance, seemingly trifles. Let's start with the bearings for the shaft. The installation of conventional is justified if the machine is used from time to time. For homemade device with constant use, it is better to install self-aligning bearings. They consist of two rows of balls, adjustable by tightening the clamping nut. Install a cover to protect against dust, chips is mandatory.
On the working surface, we put a scale in centimeter increments. This will make it much easier to work with the tree when determining the width of the cut. Many neglect the installation of a protective shield over the disc, but in vain - treatment from chips getting into the eye or in more serious situations is more expensive.
When working with various materials often it is necessary to adjust the speed of the circular saw. Homemade design, as a rule, does not have the ability to control the engine speed. There is only one way out - the use of pulleys of various diameters. They are mounted on the motor shaft. If you undertake to order pulleys from a turner, immediately make a solid pulley with two or three different diameters.
Many people want to install a three-phase electric motor on the sawing machine without having 380 V. You will need capacitors rated for a minimum operating voltage of 600 V paper or oil-paper type.
We calculate the capacitance of capacitors based on the power of the electric motor: for 1 kW - 100 μF for a working capacitor Cf. We take the capacity of the starting Cn twice as large. The SB trigger is a button that automatically returns to its original position. The start is simple: SQ is turned on, SB is pressed for a couple of seconds. After starting, the button is released, as soon as the engine picks up speed, you can cut.
stop for ripping.
Having perfectly aligned the saw with one of the edges of the table, I attached it with M4 screws. To do this, I had to drill the iron base of the circular in four places.
In general, any circular is suitable for installation on a table, but if you choose the type of fastening with screws for the base, then it is better to choose a model with an iron base. The cast may crack.
There is another popular way to fix the circular to the table without drilling holes in the base - attach it with clamps that fix the base by pressing it to the surface. Only this method seemed to me not true enough in terms of accuracy and reliability of the installation, and I did not use it.
Another important parameter of a manual circular is the ability to connect a vacuum cleaner. If you saw without a vacuum cleaner, fine wood dust rises into the air.
The disc has been sawn to the top side of the table top. Height - 40mm (Bosh wood disc 160mm). The table top reduces the cutting depth by 9 mm. The depth of cut is set on the circular saw itself. It is convenient that the disk can be completely hidden in the table.
UPD: IMPORTANT! On a number of budget circulars, it may turn out that the disk is under an imperceptible slope. And all cuts will be beveled. Be sure to check with a tool square that the disc is at 90 degrees relative to the table surface. (before installing the saw, you can check the angle relative to the native platform. If the disk turned out to be not at a right angle and there is no way to set the ideal angle of the platform, you can put several strips of tin on one side under the platform, achieving perfect angle(you can use washers for the screws that secure the saw to the table, but this solution is worse)
Inside the table I placed a socket for the saw, which will now turn on with the start button.
This is how you can connect a vacuum cleaner to the saw. In general, the table is ready and you can saw. (done in one evening and one morning).
Of course, it is possible to cut without equipment using slats and clamps, but it is inconvenient.
This design, clinging to the edges of the table and aligning with them, can move along the saw blade. By pressing the rail against the sled, you can easily cut it exactly at 90 o. Thin pieces of wood can be placed inside the sled.
You can even cut the rail like a sausage :) For example, I cut several pieces of different thicknesses.
Slides solve only part of the problems. For longitudinal sawing, a side stop is also needed.
I glued brackets from plywood that will cling to the edge of the table.
Clings to the edges with a death grip.
The circular saw is a dangerous tool. In order not to saw off my fingers, I made from waste furniture board simple pusher.
I have already managed to work with this table, sawing and slats, furniture panels, plywood. It became much easier to perform all these works than I did when sawing off with a hand circular saw.
In the future, I will further refine this table:
- I will remake the side stop for longitudinal sawing, so that when moving, it always remains parallel to the disk
- I will put a removable riving knife to which the disc protection will be attached
- I'll make a dust extraction from the top of the table. (Now when I drink, the disc throws wood dust right in my face)
- I will finish the improved pusher. I have already begun to make a more interesting and convenient version of the pusher, I will write about it in the future.
I will gradually implement this in the future, but for now I will work like this.
Many home craftsmen dream of conducting independent cutting of lumber. This is a simple matter, but without suitable equipment it is almost impossible. So why not adapt a hand-held circular saw for this and assemble a table with the possibility of a longitudinal and transverse cut with your own hands?
A hand-held circular saw can be used for this quite ordinary. The power and diameter of the disc directly depends on what and how much you are going to process. Remember also that the table mount steals up to 20 mm from the maximum cutting depth, so single-handed saws with a 120 mm blade are of little use for such purposes. The presence of the circular functions of adjusting the depth and angle of cut will provide you with more possibilities for fine workpieces and cutting box grooves.
Table materials and bases
For the countertop, it is recommended to use 9 or 11 mm laminated plywood. The material really deserves to be looked for: durable, does not flex, the surface is smooth and slippery. Ideally, if at the place of purchase you order a cut to the desired table dimensions, so that the edges and cuts are strictly rectangular. In our case, the dimensions of the countertop will be 800x800 mm.
Suitable for almost any table sheet material, for example, Chipboard thickness 16 mm. It will take four strips without pasting the ends with dimensions of 400x784 mm. Of these, you need to assemble the walls of a rectangular box, fastening the planks with black self-tapping screws with a preliminary reaming of the outer part by 5 mm. For durability and stability in inside corners the assembled box, bars of 40x40 mm are installed, it is better to fasten to them in the same way. The ends of the bars will be used to secure the surface of the table.
Such a device for stationary installation of a saw can be placed on top of any workbench of sufficient size. If you are planning a separate installation, fasten long wooden blocks, which will serve as the legs. Do not forget that at the bottom they need to be fastened with crossbars and provide for the installation of additional oppression for greater stability.
Fixing the Hand Saw
Mark the longitudinal and transverse central axis on the wrong side of the plywood. Measure the width and length of your saw's support shoe and transfer them to your worktop markings. Determine the diameter and thickness of the bottom guard and the distance it is from the edges of the support shoe. Mark the rectangle according to the obtained dimensions on the plywood and cut the hole with an electric jigsaw.
In the four corners of the shoe, make one hole with a diameter of 10 mm. Drilling locations are arbitrary. Place the saw blade in the slot on the tabletop and align the shoe with the markings. Mark the centers of the holes made on the plywood and transfer them to the back side with a thin drill.
If there is not enough space in the support shoe to drill such large holes, use two steel plates with welded 6 mm studs, attach them to the base of the saw with wing nuts with star washers. In this case, remove the saw to handmade and return it to its place without additional adjustment will be a matter of five minutes. The plates, in turn, have one large hole each for secure mounting and initial adjustment of the position of the saw.
To fasten the saw to the tabletop, you need to use M8 ploughshare bolts with a countersunk cone head. Under them, an 8 mm hole is drilled from the front side and a countersink is made for a cap, which, in an untightened state, should protrude no more than 1 mm above the surface. On the reverse side, the bolts pass into the holes of the support shoe (or steel plates) and are tightened under a wide and spring washer, or a nut with a plastic grower.
If the fitting was successful, the countertop must be fixed to the box. In the four corners of the plywood board, you need to drill one hole the same as for attaching the saw. The distance from the edges is half the side of the bar used plus the wall thickness of the box, in our case it is 30 mm. A 10 mm hole is drilled in the center of each bar, a steel screw M8x18 mm is screwed inside.
Once the tabletop is secured, turn the table on its side so that you have access to both the blade and the saw mounts at the same time. After removing the protective cover for a while, set the saw blade along the longitudinal axis of the table using a rail and square. After adjusting the disc, tighten the fastening nuts well. Using a ruler or level attached to the disc, mark the edges of the table and draw a line of the cut plane along them. Draw along the line several times with an awl, leaving a shallow groove, such a marking will definitely not be erased after long use.
Start button and electrical
The standard power button must be shunted, and if this is not possible, clamp it with a clothespin or harness. Instead of a button on the handle, a small electrical network will be used, laid inside the box.
On the outer front side of the box, install a double button "Start / Stop" with fixation. Its normally open contact is connected to a break in the power cable. The ends of the wire are connected to a socket screwed with inside.
After the saw is connected and tested in operation, it is necessary to pull a triple-folded nylon stocking onto the air intake grille.
Trimming of parts is conveniently carried out in the presence of a thrust beam that moves along guides along the cut line. You can make this from ordinary 9 mm plywood.
All you need is a few boards:
- 150x250 mm 2 pcs.
- 100x820 mm 2 pcs.
- 150x820 mm 1 pc.
- 142x300 mm 1 pc.
As before, sawing plywood on precision equipment is preferable. Three long boards must be assembled in the form of a channel 150 mm wide and with shelves of 100 mm. Since the self-tapping screws will face the countertop, you need to pre-drill the plywood under them and recess the fasteners, and then process the traces with emery cloth. It is more reliable to use confirmations instead of self-tapping screws.
Boards 150x250 mm are screwed like channel plugs, the free ends are directed downwards. The remaining bar is screwed between the shelves exactly in the center. If this beam is placed on a table, the side boards will drop down the sides of the box with a gap of about 10 mm on each side.
Use full extension furniture rails with ball bearings. First attach them to the beam, and then try on and screw them to the body. The fastening holes are oblong, use them to adjust the beam: it should slide over the tabletop with a very small gap and at right angles to the cutting plane. Pass the beam once with the saw running to make a cut at the bottom. For quick removal and installation of the beam, it is recommended to snap off the plastic clips on the rails in advance.
Adjustable rip fence
It is much easier to dissolve the forest if there is longitudinal stop. It can be made from an ordinary aluminum cornice or another lightweight profile with a perfectly even edge and stiffeners. You will need a cut along the length of the table, that is, 800 mm.
At 150 cm from the edges, make two holes of 8 mm and insert into them along the M8 bolt, orienting the thread down. Screw on the nut without the washer and tighten firmly. At the same distance from the edges of the table, draw two lines. At their intersection with the centerline of the tabletop, drill holes of 12 mm. One more hole is drilled on the same lines with an indent of 30 cm. Using a milling cutter or a jigsaw, make two thin slots, it is advisable to cut as evenly as possible.
The stop profile is inserted with bolts into these slots; after adjustment, it can be pressed with lambs with a wide washer from the inside. If the cutting width needs to be changed frequently, supply the table body with door hinges for easy opening. To make the adjustment of the stop faster, fasten the cut tape from the tape measure to the ends of the table.
Comments:
Many owners of hand-held circular saws are thinking about their improvement, since this necessary tool in the household, with all the advantages inherent in portable devices, is not able to replace a stationary circular saw.
The designers of some DP models decided to help consumers and provided their products with devices that can somehow compensate for the lack of a table needed to work with materials. large sizes. And yet, all design tricks, as a rule, are compromises.
How to make a stationary circular from a manual circular
Of course, there is a way to get rid of the disadvantages of a portable tool - to buy a stationary circular. However, since you have become the owner of a hand-held circular saw, do you plan to work with it? Shouldn't you start by making a do-it-yourself table for a circular saw that will help turn a DP into a full-fledged machine? As a result, you will get experience, satisfaction from the work done and, finally, the desired result.
If you have an old table (dining, kitchen, writing), then it will make a wonderful bed. But it may happen that this is not at hand at the right time, so you will surely need tips on how to make a table with your own hands for your DP.
For the working surface of the future machine, the so-called Finnish plywood is ideal. This material is laminated (good sliding of blanks when sawing), thick enough (can withstand a large mass), moisture resistant (useful quality for outdoor storage) and at the same time not without such wood qualities as ease of processing.
You can use simple plywood 20 mm thick to make a table with your own hands, only it will have to be treated with special compounds and painted. It would be even better to cover the table with a sheet of steel or textolite.
Any boards at least 40 mm thick are suitable for the manufacture of drawers, and the legs can be made from wooden blocks, steel corners or profile pipes, but 100x50 mm boards are best suited
It is necessary to warn before you get to work that the finished table for the circular saw will reduce the cutting depth of the circular saw just by the thickness of the cover, but if your DP is equipped with a large diameter disc, then this circumstance will have little effect on the performance of the new machine.
Manufacturing of lids and sides
When making a table with your own hands, keep in mind that the length and width of its working surface must be sufficient so that the workpiece can lie flat on the table top. The accuracy of its processing largely depends on this. You can add that an electric planer and a jigsaw can also be attached to a wide table from below. Then you get a multifunctional machine.
Cut out a rectangular piece of plywood required size and finish its edges. On the future inside of the countertop, mark the fastening. You can lean the sole of the circular against the surface and circle it with a pencil, and make a slot in the tabletop with a saw blade. If your DP will be used to cut workpieces at various angles, then the slot should expand towards the top of the table.
You can pick up a few millimeters of thickness from the table in order to try to get closer to the depth of cut provided for by your DP passport. Make a small indentation for the sole with a milling cutter. Of course, do not abuse this opportunity (a depth of 10 mm is enough).
Now it's time to make the drawers (side boards under the tabletop), they will strengthen the structure and provide secure fastening legs. In addition, it will be possible to place fittings on the side to turn the tool on and off. The sides will be located 5-10 cm from the edges of the tabletop. With this in mind, cut 4 boards. Collect them in a box and fasten it with self-tapping screws (2 fasteners on each edge).
Coat the edges that will adhere to the lid and the countertop with wood glue, attach the box to it and fix the sides together with the lid with clamps. Without removing them, screw the screws through the work surface into the sidewalls. Remember that the heads of the fasteners must be flush with the surface of the table, so before screwing in the screws, drill holes and countersink them.
Table legs
Making a do-it-yourself table for DP has not ended. Now you need to attach legs to it. Calculate their height so that it is convenient for you to work in the future. The legs are attached to the drawers from the outside and are pulled together with screws, bolts or threaded studs. The heads of screws and bolts, as well as nuts, must be separated from the wood with washers.
Even if you think that you have securely fixed the legs, they still need to provide additional rigidity, because a slightly different load will act on a table made with your own hands than on a coffee table.
Spacers will have to be welded to the legs from a profile or corner, and bars of 40x40 mm or 50x50 mm are suitable to reinforce the supports from the boards.
Required extras
In order not to miss a single detail when making a table with your own hands, you should be aware of the restrictive or regulating bar. Some models of portable DP have it, but its stroke is not enough to work with wide workpieces.
Table of a circular machine: 1 - plywood jumper; 2 - steel plate; 3 - insert; 4 - saw blade; 5 - screws; 6 - countersunk screws; 7 - bed board.
The length of the bar should match the length of the table. It can move along the guides on both sides of the cover or be fastened with clamps. In the surface of the table, you can make 2 slots perpendicular to the saw blade, through which the restrictive bar will be attached at one or another distance from the blade. The limiter can be made from a bar, a metal corner or a profile pipe.
It remains to make a new switching unit for the new machine. It's pretty simple work. A ceramic socket is installed on one of the drawers, where the DP will be connected. The saw button is fixed in the on state (do not break it, but make a simple latch from a strip of steel or aluminum, wrap the button with the handle with electrical tape). On the wire going from the socket on the frame to the mains, install any switching device that matches the power consumption of the saw blade. Fix it on the sidewall in a place convenient for you.
