Parallel stop for circular saws. How to make a parallel fence for a circular saw with your own hands? Guide for circular saw

When working with a manual circular saw, the question of the straightness of the cut is acute. There are two concepts for ensuring a straight line:

Fastening on the sawing machine (workbench) of the actual circular.

In this design, the hand tool is permanently attached to the table, and the workpiece moves along the guide. The cutting quality is at its best, but there are serious limitations on the size of the material being processed.

The workpiece is fixed permanently, and for manual circular saw guide line is installed.

In this design, the size of the workpiece to be cut can be any, the main thing is to ensure a strong fastening of the device for circular saw. Manufacturers hand tool take care of users, and offer various ready-made devices for sale.

Industrially manufactured guides are comfortable and safe. As a rule, they are equipped with an accurate marking ruler, some allow you to set the cutting angle. The material is selected in such a way as to exclude wedging and play during the movement of the tool.

The pair, consisting of a groove and a runner, is protected from the ingress of cutting products and does not need lubrication.

However, all these kits are expensive, and many home craftsmen make a rail for.

Consider options that were independently invented and created by homegrown "Kulibins".

IMPORTANT! A hand-held circular saw is a source of increased injury, therefore, in the manufacture homemade devices based on it, safety precautions should be followed.

The easiest option is a cutting stop

The device is actively used when cutting with a jigsaw.

It works quite efficiently, but it is limited for hand-held circular saws. The tire is pressed against the workpiece with a clamp. The bracket protrudes above the work surface both from below and from above.

As a result, we get restrictions on the length of the cut. The circular engine rests against the clamp, and you have to cut in two steps. In this case, the quality of the edge deteriorates, a step may form.

Expand functionality hand power tools, to make its use more convenient, comfortable and safe allow devices for manual router. Production models such devices are quite expensive, but you can save on their purchase and make devices for equipping a wood router with your own hands.

Different kinds of devices can make a truly versatile tool out of a hand router.

The main task that the devices for the milling cutter solve is to ensure that the tool is located in relation to the surface to be machined in the required spatial position. Some of the most commonly used attachments for milling machines are included as standard with such equipment. The same models that have a highly specialized purpose are purchased separately or made by hand. At the same time, many devices for a wood router have such a design that making them with your own hands does not present any particular problems. For home-made devices for a manual milling cutter, drawings will not even be required - their drawings will be quite enough.

Among the devices for a wood router, which you can make yourself, there are a number of popular models. Let's consider them in more detail.

Rip fence for straight and curved cuts

A rip fence for or other base surface, which allows straight cuts in wood relative to these surfaces, is one of the most popular fixtures and is included as standard on many models. Using such a device, the base element for which, in addition to the desktop, can be the side of the workpiece or the guide rail, grooves are machined on the workpiece, and its edge part is also milled.

The design of the parallel stop for the router includes the following components:

• rods that are inserted into special holes in the router body;
• locking screw, through which the rods are fixed in the desired position;
• fine adjustment screw, which is needed in order to more accurately adjust the distance at which the axis of the cutter will be from the base surface;
• support pads, with which the fixture rests against the base surface (in some models of parallel stops, it is possible to change the distance between the support pads).

To prepare the stop for the router for work, you need to perform the following steps:

• insert the stop rods into the holes in the base of the router and fix them in the required position with a locking screw;
• by loosening the lock screw and using the fine adjustment screw, adjust the distance between the axis of the cutter and the supporting surface of the fixture.

By adding a parallel stop with one simple detail, you can use such a device to create not only straight, but also curved cuts in a tree. Such a detail is a wooden block, one side of which is straight, and on the other side a round or round notch is made. angular shape. It is located between the support pads of the stop and the base surface of the workpiece made of wood, which has a curvilinear shape.

In this case, of course, with its straight side, the bar should rest against the support pads of the fixture, and with the recessed side, against the curved base surface. Work with a parallel stop, additionally equipped with such a bar, should be extremely careful, since the position of the router itself in this case will be quite unstable.

Guide bar

The guide rail, like the parallel stop, provides a straight-line movement of the router relative to the base surface during wood processing. Meanwhile, unlike the parallel stop, such a guide for the router can be located at any angle to the edge of the workpiece. Thus, the guide rail can enable the router to precisely move during wood processing in almost any direction in the horizontal plane. The guide rail, equipped with additional structural elements, is also useful when milling holes located in a tree with a certain pitch.

The fixation of the guide rail on the work table or the workpiece is provided with special clamps. If there are no such clamps in the basic configuration of the device, ordinary clamps are suitable for this purpose. Some models of guide bars can be equipped with a special adapter, often called a shoe. The adapter, connected to the base of the router by means of two rods, slides along the profile of the tire during processing and thus ensures the movement of the working head of the router in a given direction.

Such a device for milling as a guide rail is best used in conjunction with routers, the supporting platform of which is equipped with height-adjustable legs. This is explained as follows. In cases where the bearing surfaces of the router and the tire are in different horizontal planes, which can happen when too proximity fixtures in relation to the workpiece made of wood, adjustable legs tools make it possible to eliminate this discrepancy.

Guides for equipping the router, which, despite the simplicity of their design, will be highly efficient in use, without special difficulties can be made by hand. The simplest of these devices can be made from a long wooden block, which is fixed on the workpiece with the help of clamps. To make such a device even more convenient, you can supplement it with side stops. If you put and fix the bar simultaneously on two (or even more) wood blanks, you can mill a groove on their surface in one pass.

The main disadvantage that distinguishes the device of the above design is that it is not easy to accurately fix the bar relative to the line of the future cut. The guide devices of the two designs proposed below are deprived of such a disadvantage.

The first of these devices is a device made of interconnected boards and plywood sheet. To ensure the alignment of this fixture with respect to the edge of the groove being made, the following conditions must be met: the distance from the edge of the stop to the edge of the plywood (base) must exactly correspond to the distance at which the tool used is located from the extreme point of the router base. The adaptation of the proposed design is used if the tree is processed with milling cutters of the same diameter.

For milling operations performed with tools of different diameters, it is advisable to use fixtures of a different design. The peculiarity of the latter lies in the fact that, when using them, the milling cutter comes into contact with the stop with the entire sole, and not just its middle part. In the design of such an emphasis, there is a folding hinged board, which ensures the correct spatial position of the device in relation to the surface of the processed wood product. The purpose of this board is to ensure that the stop is fixed in the desired position. After such a procedure is completed, the board leans back and thereby frees up space for the working head of the router.

When making such a fixture for a router with your own hands, it should be borne in mind that the distance from the center of the tool used to the extreme point of the router base must correspond to the width of the folding board and the gap between the board and the stop, if it is provided in the design of the fixture. In the event that in the manufacture of this device you focused only on the edge of the cutter and the edge of the groove that needs to be formed with it, it will be possible to use such a device only with cutters of the same diameter.

Often, milling grooves in wood blanks has to be across the fibers of the material, which leads to the formation of burrs. Devices that, pressing the fibers in the place where the cutter comes out, prevent them from chipping off the surface of the treated wood, allow to reduce the amount of burrs. The design of one of these devices consists of two boards, which are connected to each other with screws at an angle of 90 °. The width of the groove made in such a device must match the width of the recess created in the wood product, for which different sides stop use cutters of different diameters.

Other milling fixture, the design of which consists of two L-shaped elements fixed on the workpiece made of wood with clamps, is required for milling open grooves and ensures a minimum number of scuffs during processing.

Copy rings and templates

The copy sleeve for the router is a device with a protruding side that slides along the template and thus sets the movement of the cutter in the desired direction. On the sole of the router, such a ring can be fixed different ways: screwed, screwed into a threaded hole, inserted with special antennae into holes in the sole of the tool.

The diameters of the copy ring and the tool used should be close, but it is important that the ring does not touch the cutting part of the cutter. If the diameter of the ring exceeds the transverse dimension of the copy cutter, then such a template to compensate for the difference between its size and the diameter of the tool should not exceed the size of the workpiece.

The milling template, made in the form of a ring, can be fixed on a wooden workpiece using double-sided adhesive tape and clamps, with which both parts of it are pressed against the desktop. After milling according to the template, you should check that the ring was pressed tightly against the edge of the template during the milling operation.

Milling templates can be used not only to process the entire edge of the product, but also to give its corners a rounded shape. Using such a template for a milling cutter, it is possible to perform roundings of various radii at the corners of a workpiece made of wood.

Templates used with a router can be equipped with a bearing or a ring. In the latter case, the following conditions must be met: the ring must exactly match the diameter of the cutter, or stops must be provided in the fixture design that allow you to move the template away from the edge of the workpiece and thereby eliminate the difference between the radii of the tool and the ring.

With the help of templates, which can also be adjustable, you can not only mill the edges of the processed wood product, but also create curly grooves on its surface. In addition, if you make a template of the appropriate design, which is not very difficult, it will be possible to quickly and accurately cut grooves for door hinges.

Cutting grooves in round and elliptical shapes

In order to cut grooves in a tree in the form of a circle or an ellipse with a hand mill, circular devices are used. The simplest compass for a milling cutter consists of a rod. One of its ends is connected to the base of the router, and the other is equipped with a screw and a pin. The pin is inserted into the hole, which acts as the center of the circle, along the contour of which the groove is formed. To change the radius of the circle of the groove, for which such a compass for the router is used, it is enough to shift the rod relative to the base of the router. More convenient to use are circular devices, in the design of which two rods are provided, and not one.

Tooling, working on the principle of a compass, is a fairly common type of device used to work with a router. With their help, it is very convenient to mill curly grooves with various radii of curvature. As mentioned above, standard design such a device, which can be made with your own hands, includes a screw with a pin that can move along the groove of the device and thereby allow you to adjust the radius of the groove created.

In cases where a milling cutter for wood or other material needs to create a hole of small diameter, a different type of tooling is used. A design feature of such devices, which are fixed on the lower part of the router base, is that their pin, which is installed in the central hole on the workpiece being processed, is located under the base of the power tool used, and not outside it.

Base Corner Guides
Centering pin Compass assembly. Bottom view Compass assembly. View from above

Using special devices, a manual milling cutter can create not only round, but also oval holes in a tree. The design of one of these devices includes:

• a base that can be fixed on the workpiece made of wood with vacuum suction cups or screws;
• two shoes that move along intersecting guides;
• two mounting bars;
• bracket connecting the base of the fixture to the router.

Due to special grooves in the bracket of such a device, its base plate is easily aligned with the base of the router. If this equipment is used to perform milling along a circular contour, then one shoe is used, and if along an oval, then both. The cut made with such a device is of higher quality than if it was made using a jigsaw or band saw. This is explained by the fact that the processing with the milling cutter used in this case is carried out by a tool that rotates at high speed.

Devices for fast and high-quality milling of grooves on narrow surfaces

Anyone can answer the question of how to make grooves for door hinges or a lock. House master. For these purposes, as a rule, a drill and a conventional chisel are used. Meanwhile, such a procedure can be performed much faster and with less labor costs if you take a milling cutter equipped with a special device for this. The design of such a device, with the help of which grooves of various widths can be created on narrow surfaces, is a flat base fixed on the sole of the router. On the basis, which can have both round and rectangular shape, two pins are installed, the task of which is to ensure the rectilinear movement of the router during processing.

The main requirement that the nozzle on the milling cutter of the above design must meet is that the axes of the guide pins must be in line with the center of the cutter used for wood processing. If this condition is met, then the groove made at the end of the workpiece will be located strictly in its center. To move the groove to one of the sides, it is enough to put a sleeve of the appropriate size on one of the guide pins. When using such a nozzle on a hand mill, you need to ensure that the guide pins are pressed against the side surfaces of the workpiece during processing.

It is possible to ensure the stability of the router when processing narrow surfaces without special devices. This problem is solved with the help of two boards, which are attached on both sides of the workpiece in such a way as to form one plane with the surface on which the groove is made. The milling cutter itself, when using this technological method, is positioned using a parallel stop.

Milling fixtures for processing bodies of revolution

Many devices for manual milling machine, manufactured by users for their own needs, have no serial analogues. One of these devices, the need to use which arises quite often, is a device that facilitates the process of cutting grooves in bodies of revolution. Using such a device, in particular, it is possible to easily and accurately cut longitudinal grooves on poles, balusters and other wood products of a similar configuration.

Milling cutter and frame assembly Carriage for router Dividing disc

The design of this device is:

• frame;
• mobile milling carriage;
• a disk with which the angle of rotation is set;
• screws that secure the workpiece to be processed;
• stop screw.

If such a device is additionally equipped with a simple drive, which can be used as a conventional drill or screwdriver, then milling on it can successfully replace the processing performed on a lathe.

Spike Milling Tool

A tenoning device for a router allows you to high precision perform processing of parts connected according to the tenon-groove principle. The most versatile of these devices allow you to mill studs various types(“dovetail” and straight lines). In the operation of such a device, a copy ring is involved, which, moving along the groove in a special template, ensures the exact movement of the cutter in a given direction. To make one with your own hands, you must first select the groove patterns for which it will be used.

Several additional options for expanding the functionality of the router

Why do you need to create additional devices to equip a manual router, which is already enough functional device? The fact is that such devices will allow you to turn your hand mill into a full-fledged machining center. So, by fixing a hand mill on the guide (it can be), you can not only facilitate the process of using it, but also increase the accuracy of the operations performed. The design of such useful device does not contain complex elements, so making it for a router and a drill with your own hands will not be difficult.

Many home craftsmen, wondering how to work with a hand router with even greater efficiency, make a functional desktop for this tool. Naturally, such a table can also be used for other equipment (for example, for a circular saw or an electric drill).

If you do not have a manual milling machine at your disposal, then this problem is also solved with the help of special devices that allow you to successfully perform milling on a serial lathe. Using a milling tool lathe, you can significantly expand the functionality of serial equipment (in particular, use it to machine planes, make a selection of grooves and grooves, process various parts along the contour). It is also important that such a fixture for a lathe is not complex in design, and making it yourself will not be a big problem.

The circular saw is most commonly used for precise, even sawing wood and wood-based materials, but can also be useful for trimming light metals and plastics. It should have a guide for a circular saw: tire and carriage, parallel stop. When buying a tool, you should pay attention to this attention. Power and number of revolutions per minute - labor productivity, quality of work, the ability to saw hard materials depend on these parameters.

Homemade desktop mini-sawmill

A hand circular saw is an indispensable tool in the home workshop of a self-respecting owner. For successful work it must have a guide rail for a circular saw. Saw blades are of great importance, the quality and accuracy of cutting depends on their thickness and size of the teeth. The smaller the tooth, the cleaner the surface to be treated will be.

The well-equipped workshop has a manual electric tool, which has a guide bar for a circular saw, handmade and tuned for successful work. As well as a special connection for a vacuum cleaner and bags or containers for sawdust. This is very practical solution, because during long sawing you don’t have to stop every minute to remove workplace. This saw is manufactured by Bosch for professionals. In addition, it has the ability to adjust the angle of deviation from the vertical and the cutting depth.

The right choice of tool

Before buying, you should make sure that the selected tool provides the required depth of cut vertically and at an angle. An additional aspect that can facilitate normal operation is the length of the cable. If conditions are not favorable for the use of an extension cord, a saw with a long cable should be selected.

Offered saws from well-known manufacturers are equipped with a device for easy blade replacement, which further simplifies the work. This is an excellent electric tool that can be used for small repair work at home or in the garden.

For those people who love to craft, this mechanism is simply necessary. Thanks to its small size, it will always find a place even in a small home workshop.

Multi Tool Attachments

Novice craftsmen doubt that using a hand-held mechanical tool it is possible to make a cut in a straight line. This is true if you cut along the markup, but you can make the job easier by using a purchased or homemade guide,

Hand tools for woodworking, especially modern design, sometimes amaze with the number of auxiliary devices that help in sawing the material. The simplest auxiliary device is an ordinary stop on the base of the saw with an indicator of the line along which the cut will take place.

The most popular addition is short rail with adjustable extension length. More complex designs have a roller on such a guide so that the movement of the saw does not slow down when it comes into contact with the edge of the material.

Sometimes they put indicators showing laser cutting lines and other devices that have the same drawbacks. All these mechanisms serve to inform that the saw blade has gone beyond the cut line. All simple mechanisms indicate inaccurate sawing.

Why then all these systems that do not allow the amateur to perform a simple cut? Where is the error in this approach? All well-known woodworking machines for professional woodworking have a parallel clamping device for constant clamping of the processed material and rigid blocking. Often this stop moves. For professional tools, there is a guide rail for the Interskol hand-held circular saw on sale, which can be used for another overhead mechanism.

Then the tremor in the muscles of the forearm does not affect the direction of the cut, because this is controlled by a hard stop. Someone will say that surgeons do not use stops and are able to perform complex and precise operations. It probably is, but their material is more susceptible to machining, and perfectly straight lines do not matter.

To reduce the cost of purchasing a guide bar for a circular saw, you can make it yourself. Thanks to this DIY, the only thing you have to worry about during the cutting process is to firmly press the saw against the stop and slowly move it forward. The materials necessary for manufacturing, fixtures can be found in every workshop.

For example, a panel made of thick plywood should have a width greater than the width of the saw base by five centimeters. The length depends on the workpieces that will have to be cut. Optimal dimensions:

• length - about 1 meter;
• width - 50 cm.

The stop bar must be the same length as the length of the guide. The width must ensure reliable adhesion to the panel surface - at least 3 cm or even much wider. The height of the bar is at least 12 mm. Optimal size stop: 100 cm x 3 cm x 1.5 cm.

One note when choosing a rail in a supermarket - it should have one thin side of a flat. How to check it? Lay the rail on a flat table and check for a bulge or gap. It is this flat surface of the rail that will provide a straight cutting line.

When all the materials are collected, you can start making a parallel stop for a circular saw with your own hands. First you need to measure the distance between the saw and the edge of the panel towards its longest part. Add some 3 cm to the result obtained. This size will serve for the center line, 2 cm away from the edge.

Then measure the width of the saw base and draw a second line. This size is needed to highlight the area of ​​​​the passage of the saw. Mark the space between the lines with a pencil so that there is no doubt that this area is turned off from work and is intended only for the movement of the saw. When all dimensions are drawn, start mounting the rail:

1. Spread the rail with glue and attach along the second line intended for stop.
2. Press with a clamp to ensure a secure bond.
3. Leave for 12 hours for the adhesive to gain full strength.

When everything is securely fixed, you need to calibrate the device by making the first cut. To do this, set the saw to the stop, trying to make sure that the edge of the saw base is evenly pressed against the bar and make a cut with an even movement along the bar. It is this first cut along the thrust guide that will allow the device to be calibrated for further work.

When the stop is ready, you can safely use it to get a quick cut. On the material to be cut, mark the cutting line. Lay a new guide along this line so that the working edge lies on the line - the saw will cut the material exactly in this place.

After carefully laying and making sure that there is no tabletop on the other side of the material being cut, press the saw firmly against the stop and, moving along the guide, cut off the required size of the material. While sawing, you need to lightly press the saw against the device and against the stop surface - this will ensure a straight cut. It must be moved smoothly and evenly. In the end it will straight line cut. There are two interesting things to note when using a handheld circular saw attachment:

In the carpenter's home workshop there is always a place for a homemade miter saw from a hand circular. To make it, you need to have a homemade guide ruler and a carriage for a circular saw.

To make a line you will need several pieces of 12 mm plywood and a 10x20 mm metal profile. The length of the ruler is 1.5 meters. Using a cutter with a diameter of 20 millimeters, a groove is milled to install the profile along the entire length of the device. The profile is fixed with screws. A stiffener is fixed parallel to the profile line at a distance of 12 centimeters.

Next, a do-it-yourself circular carriage is made from the same plywood. The size of the carriage is arbitrary and is taken under the base of the saw. The carriage has a groove for a profile mounted on a ruler. The basic dimensions are selected in such a way that the carriage lies on the profile and rests against the stiffener with its end. In addition to the groove, the carriage has a slot for the saw blade to exit.

A circular saw guide is a very simple but reliable device.. In order to cut sheets of material, you need to fix the saw in the carriage with two screws, attach the guide to the material, aligning the saw blade with the cutting line, turn on the saw and, moving the carriage along the ruler, cut off the desired workpiece.

The manufactured device can be made universal and used with both an ordinary hand saw and a plunge-cut saw. To do this, it is enough to remove from the line profile pipe and install a movable rail to which the saw is attached. To smoothly move the rail, the groove must be well rubbed with paraffin.

Cutting lumber at an angle

To cut material at different angles, you need to have special device for the sawing machine. If it is not possible to buy such a device, you need to think about how to make a homemade miter saw from a simple circular saw using available materials. In order for this device to have an angle stop, you need to have two structural nodes.

The first node is a rotary device. You can collect it from waste. To do this, you need a plate measuring 100x50x2 cm for the base. Attached to the base on the axis Rotary table in the form of a semicircle with angular markings - the so-called do-it-yourself protractor for a circular.

The second node is the saw table. Its size is 100x25x2 cm. saw table a rectangular hole is made for the saw blade to exit and a groove for the movable rail to which the saw is attached. The principle of operation is as follows:

Electric jigsaw as a sawmill

An electric jigsaw may well replace an electric saw when sawing a small amount of lumber and small workpieces. To do this, you need to make a guide for a jigsaw with your own hands. The device is simple, even a novice master can do it.

From a board 800 long and 20 mm thick, make a guide for the base of the jigsaw. To do this, attach two slats of 10x10 millimeters to the edges of the board with screws. The distance between the rails is equal to the width of the base of the jigsaw. At the ends of the board, strengthen the slats with a length equal to the width of the working part and a height of 10 millimeters. In these rails, drill one hole with a diameter of 8 millimeters for fixing studs.

Make a table measuring 800x400x80 millimeters. For this to chipboard attach slats 60x20 millimeters around the perimeter. Install two M8 studs on it along the edges of the table length. A guide will be put on and fixed on them. Cut a slot in the guide along the central axis for the exit of the jigsaw file. Do additional window 120x40 mm for the output of the file when cutting the material at an angle.

On the table, make a graduation with a protractor, marking an angle of 90 and 45 degrees. According to the markup, install a rotary stop ruler. The device is ready and can be used in work. To do this, it must be installed on a carpentry workbench.

Homemade universal slider

For all of the listed guides, you can make one universal slider that fits any device. The slider consists of metal profile and carriages on bearings.

This design, consisting of self-made guides on bearings, is very convenient: easy to manufacture, easy to use, suitable for any guide device. The carriage has eight bearings: four thrust bearings and the same number of side bearings for fixing the carriage on the tire. As a tire, a profile guide in the form of a rail is used. Rail guides are particularly accurate, so they are used in the manufacture of furniture.

Parallel emphasis for a circular saw with your own hands can be made one of the options according to the proposed drawings.

What is common in a homemade guide- this is a base that moves along the plane of the table relative to the saw blade, which is made of standard aluminum rolled products (pressed rectangular unequal-shelf angular section of aluminum and magnesium alloys, profile number - 411158)

The dimensions of the shelves of the angle used in the section (mm):

Length - 70, thickness - 6
width - 41, thickness - 10

FIRST PERFORMANCE

The length of the corner is 450 (mm). In the wide shelf of the corner, we drill three through holes with a diameter of eight millimeters on both sides, with the same pitch between the centers. We press two pins 8x18 into the extreme holes.

Between the pins, from the bottom of the table, an M8 bolt is inserted so that its threaded part goes into the groove, and the bolt head rests against the bottom plane of the table.

On top of the table, an M8 bolt is clamped with an M8 wing nut or a regular one.

How does a rip fence for a circular saw work?

1. Loosen both wing nuts.
2.
3. Tighten the wing nuts.

The movement of the corner is carried out in the direction of the grooves. The pins are the guides of the stop and allow you to move it relative to the saw blade without distortion (parallel).

VERSION SECOND

The length of the corner is 700 (mm). Along the edges of the corner, at the ends, we drill holes for the M5 thread and cut it. According to the drawing, we will make two guides from metal.

We attach them to the ends of the corner with screws with a cylindrical head for a hexagon (M5x25 GOST 11738-84). Screw M5 screws into the thread.

How does the rip fence for the circular saw of the proposed version work?

1. Loosen the wing screws.
2. We move the corner in the right direction relative to the saw blade.
3. Tighten the wing screws.

The movement of the corner is carried out in the direction of the end surfaces of the table. Guides fixed at the ends of the corner allow you to move it relative to the saw blade without distortions (parallel).

On the surface of the table, draw a markup (ruler) to visually fix the position of the homemade guide.

In the next article, we will dwell in more detail on the working body (saw blade) and electric.

Circular and parallel stop, perhaps the most important device on the circular table. Therefore, I decided to take this project with all responsibility. I don't spend a lot of time sanding and shaping without the need for fillets on fixtures, cut it out, glue it, screw it together, and that's it. In my opinion, extra beauty is not always appropriate, but strength is always needed. When I work on complex projects, I break them down into smaller components and work on them individually. Having at its disposal a thin aluminum parallel stop (photo on the right), it also had a number of inconveniences. The trouble is that for each new cut it is necessary to change the size of the stop setting, for this, moving the stop, we take into account the dimensions at the starting point of the workpiece cut and at the exit point of the cut in relation to the saw blade, then we fix it with two handles. It's inconvenient and takes a lot of time.

Circular and parallel stop step-by-step manufacturing:

Step 1: Making the stop.

Cut three strips from laminated chipboard 1.1 m long and 8 cm wide, and then assemble them together to form a U-profile. By internal dimensions profile, make five blank inserts for rigidity and insert into the inside of the profile, they will create a square section necessary for the stop. The advantage of this stop is the possibility of using it on both sides of the saw blade (photo on the left).

Step 2: Making a guide channel for the stop.

The guide channel for the stop is made of two rails, has the shape of a U-shaped profile and is bolted to the end circular table, perpendicular to the saw blade.

Step 3: Assembling the Stop - Part 1

So, the circular and parallel stop now have a guide channel. Putting everything together, using a small piece of MDF in the shape of an inverted "T", it will be screwed on the back of the stop and inserted into the guide channel. The width of the channel directly depends on the thickness of the T-shaped MDF blank, which will ensure tight placement of the T-shaped piece in the channel.

Step 4: Assembling the Stop - Part 2

Align the positions of the fence using a metal ruler, this will ensure that the fence is parallel to the saw blade. Connect, firmly, together the stop and the T-shaped mounting piece. Working hard, I realized hardwood was better than MDF, replacing the MDF T-piece took almost a day. Any discrepancy in the ready settings will lead to changes in the general settings, be prepared for this.

Step 5: Stop Locking Mechanism.

In fixing the stop, slots for the original stop are used. The locking mechanism is simple: a threaded bolt and nut, a hole in the bottom strip of the rip fence, a wooden washer. By tightening the bolt, the block pulls the stop down to the tabletop and clamps it very hard.