Quite often, the population is interested in how to find out if an apartment has been privatized or ...
In general, I have already considered this in a review article that was devoted to without the use of a panel saw.
Today I decided to dwell in more detail on the method available to most do-it-yourselfers - this is sawing with an electric jigsaw, since this tool is very widespread. In this lesson, I used a household electric jigsaw Skill 4581LA, by the way, a very good machine.
For the highest quality cut, the following conditions must be met
- the file must be fine-toothed (metal sawing is optimal)
- sawing is carried out at medium speed
in addition, for greater cleanliness of the cut, we will use such a modification as sawing "by scratch". Its essence lies in the fact that the laminate is scratched to the full depth and its pieces, pulled out by the teeth of the file, do not go beyond the scratch boundary. For clarity, I will give a few photos.
It is necessary to scratch along the ruler (any sharp object- I used a perk drill, or you can even use a self-tapping screw.) So that the ruler does not move during the scratching process, I additionally fixed it with a clamp - you can use a couple.
We scratch to the entire depth of the laminate, that is, until sawdust appears in the scratch. 
Then we take the jigsaw, and we lead it so that the file goes as close as possible to the edge of the scratch, while not going beyond this border. 
Thus, chips are formed only on the unnecessary side, without going beyond our marking line. 
Once again the same cut upon its completion. It can be seen that the minimum chips still remain, although they may be on professional equipment. But the evenness of the cut leaves much to be desired. 
Of course, there are unique people who can cut with a jigsaw fairly evenly. I am not one of those. Of course, the class of the tool itself also plays a significant role. As a rule, in inexpensive tools, the file is not as stable as in professional models. Due to this, she is led away in the direction of sawing.
In general, this method has the right to exist, but I would not recommend putting it on stream.
Today we will tell you what affects the quality of sawing, how to saw off chipboard evenly and cleanly, and also how you can saw with a tire and without a conventional guide. circular saw.
We will show using the example of a hand-held circular saw, but this does not affect the sawing techniques in any way, the difference is only in minor details. You can get a similar cut quality on a cheaper tool if you follow our advice.
What influences the quality of cutting chipboard?
AT this case we will saw chipboard, this is the most capricious material for sawing, because it has longitudinal and transverse layers, quite delicate and thin veneer. But on the other hand, it has a rigid adhesive base, which will also interfere with us.
Saw disc. How to choose it?
When cutting chipboard, the saw blade must simultaneously cut cleanly and be resistant, because the glue is very close to glass in its properties and quickly dulls the tool itself. Therefore, in the process cutting chipboard you need to choose good enough discs to saw them without losing quality for a long time.
What is the difficulty of sawing with a circular saw with discs?
If we look at the cut of the workpiece, we will see that it is full of scuffs, because it is almost impossible to keep the saw straight in the cut “on the hands”.
On the saw blade there is a difference in height between the body of the saw itself and the sawing part - the tooth. Due to this distance, the disc has the ability to direct its position in the cut. Accordingly, as soon as it changes its geometry, the rear teeth begin to hit the chipboard blank and leave traces on it.
It is important to place the workpiece face down. Why?
The disk rotates from bottom to top, it cuts the pile of the workpiece up to the base. Thus, from below, on the front side, we always have a clean surface. Problems start to form at the top where the teeth come out of the workpiece. This is how explosions, chips, pile are obtained.
How can they be minimized or avoided altogether? There are several simple tricks and we will talk about them now.
Reception 1. Cutting along the guide
We install a guide (tire) on the workpiece, set the sawing depth and perform a cut. As you can see for yourself, even on the outside of our chipboard blank there are no chips, no explosions. He himself drank even without signs of scuffing or side waves. Why such difference?
What is the merit of a leader?
When we saw with a disc, we inevitably move the saw, we get the so-called "movement of the iron." That is, when we move our hand, we move the saw all the time to the right, to the left. The guide, which has a hard edge, avoids this.
Accordingly, when we guide the saw along the guide, it does not move and the saw blade itself runs smoothly without changing its position. It turns out an ideal line parallel to the guide.
What to do if there is no manual circular saw and guide?
You need to make your own guide. We find a regular profile, you can take the rule, any flat rail, the main thing is that its geometry is even.
We measure the distance from the saw blade to the edge of your chipboard blank. We fasten the guide to the workpiece with any clamp and start cutting.
The main thing in the process is to constantly press the saw against the guide. That is, your hand should always lead the saw towards the homemade tire.
After cutting, you will get an almost perfect cut, the cut line is barely visible. We made a very high quality cut, the cut itself is clean, no side marks are visible on it. Except for a small pile on the back of the workpiece.
Where did this pile come from, because we worked with a guide (tire)?
A commercially available cutting bar has a special plastic protective tape. This tape does not allow the pile to rise and the saw cuts it. In this case, we did not have this tape, so we got this pile on the surface.
What to do with the pile in this case?
There are two options:
1. Take ordinary masking tape. It is glued to the place of cut, marking is made on it and sawn together with masking tape. The adhesive tape holds the ingrown in place and when we cut it, we get everything clean.
2. Just drive the saw blade more slowly. That is, if you do the same with a slower feed, then there will be much less chips.
Reception 2. "Reverse cut".
The first pass is performed in an unusual manner - in reverse. That is, the circular saw rotates in the course of feeding the workpiece. We set the minimum cutting depth, turn on the saw and move not forward, but backward.
If you have a regular saw, then just fix the saw with a minimum reach for the base. The meaning of the first pass is that the blade, moving along the guide, only clings to our workpiece. We need a small groove on the chipboard.
Having made the first - undercut cut, you will make sure that there are no chips with such a feed (back). The surface is perfect!
Now we will set the saw to full depth and cut the workpiece along this groove with a regular cut - feed forward. We will get two cuts for one workpiece. No wave cuts, no arson, nothing - perfect quality!
Video - how to saw off material (chipboard, plywood) without chips
How to cut chipboard without chips
So, I collected a sufficient amount of material and decided to dash off another analytical note. This time the theme is sawing chipboard without chips .
There is a fairly fair opinion that it is possible to cleanly cut chipboard only on professional equipment (that is, a panel saw).
The whole highlight of this machine is that it has two saw blades located strictly on the same axis. The first cuts the chipboard, the second cuts it through.
The cost of this unit is about 700,000 - 1,000,000 rubles (of course, there are more expensive))). NOT VERY ACCEPTABLE FOR THE AMATEUR.
Of course, if you decide to make a wardrobe with your own hands. it is better to order a sheet cut (five square meters piece) in the workshop, and then quietly assemble it. BUT WHAT TO DO IF YOU FUCKED UP IN THE CALCULATIONS AND YOU NEED TO CUT A PIECE. I don’t want to drag myself back to the shop, but I need to cut.
This article aims to answer this question. The overview of options will go from simple to complex. Unfortunately, not all methods will be illustrated (I apologize in advance), I will try to compensate for this lack of text????
Method 1 - Scratch
The grandfather's way. It used to be used for sawing Soviet laminated chipboard covered with a thick layer of varnish. Now rarely used. With it, along the ruler, we scratch with an awl or a simple nail a marking line to the thickness of the decorative coating.
After that, we cut along the line, trying to ensure that the edges of the saw teeth fall exactly into the scratch and not a step past. You can cut with both a jigsaw and a hand saw.
In principle, in the photo on the right you can see that all the chips remained on the piece without a scratch, but they did not go beyond the scratched line.
Detailed tutorial on this method 
The cut is much cleaner than when sawing without a scratch, but chips do occur. It is difficult to keep the tool strictly in line. So slow.
Small cuts of acceptable quality can be made with a simple electric jigsaw. For this, several conditions must be met. 
Firstly, the file must be with a minimum tooth size (that is, for metal) and new. At the same time, on one side (where the teeth enter the material), the cut will be almost clean. On the opposite side, there will be chips, but relatively few.
Secondly, the tool must be fed smoothly, without pressure. Turnovers set not maximum (slightly above average.
The disadvantage of the method is that it is quite difficult to maintain a strict straightness of the cut, as well as the presence of a small number of chips.
Method 3 - Circular Saw
To work with a circular saw, we need a “finishing” saw blade (again, with a fine tooth). Circular saws are more convenient than long straight cuts with a jigsaw. But at the same time, chips are formed much more (the side where the teeth cut into the material (top), as a rule, is clean. It breaks off pieces with opposite side(bottom)).
You can cut like a free saw (it is quite difficult to drive exactly along the line). It is difficult to cut several identical parts - a lot of trouble with markings. 
So is the saw fixed in the table. When using guides, sawing is much more convenient. Both hands are free. You can use a guide, which will increase the accuracy of the cut and allow you to stamp the same parts.
Even when using a finishing disc, there will be many chips on one side.
Method 4 - Undercut Sawing
This is a modification of working with a circular saw. Ideally, it will require a plunge-cut saw. but, in principle, you can do with the usual circular. For work, we need a ruler (tire), which is fixed on the workpiece with clamps. It can be purchased or homemade (pictured simple circular with custom tires). 
The whole point is, by analogy with a panel saw, to make two cuts strictly along the same line.
This will help us cut on the tire (long ruler). The tire is placed along the marking line, after which we first make the first cut, cutting the laminate, with a depth of about 6-10 mm. At the same time, the teeth run almost parallel to the surface of the laminate, without pulling out pieces of it. 
If you enlarge the photo, it will look something like this
The second cut is through. At the same time, as we remember, no chips are formed at the place where the tooth enters the material. And at the exit point, the laminate has already been cut off and there is nothing to prick.
Not a bad way to trim incorrectly marked parts, but you can’t cut the whole cabinet in this way. Chips, of course, are present, but in an amount that is quite comparable with the formatter (it also, in secret, leaves a small number of small chips). A lot of hassle with markup. Only straight cuts can be made.
Provides the cleanest edge of the workpiece; the quality is no different from the formatter, often even better.
With it, we first saw the workpiece with a jigsaw, departing from the marking line 2-3 mm, and then align the line according to the template (I usually use the second piece of chipboard, sawn on a formatter, of a suitable size). The cutter must be copy, that is, with a bearing. 
Very clean cut. The possibility of carrying out curvilinear cuts, that is, the manufacture of many radius parts. including several that are exactly the same. Cons - a lot of trouble: the need for accurate marking, preliminary sawing of blanks, setting a template or tire under the router, that is, not very suitable for mass use.
http://ruki-zolotye.ru
An electric jigsaw is a device with which you can cut plywood of different thicknesses, as well as cut out various kinds of figures from it. Let's try to figure out how to properly cut plywood with an electric jigsaw, and let's start with the main thing here - strict observance safety precautions!
Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to take care of such protective equipment, how:
- glasses;
- gloves;
- special oil.
Basic rules for cutting plywood with a jigsaw
For smooth sawing, follow the recommendations below.
- At the very beginning, firmly fasten the plywood.
- Start sawing across the grain. If you do this along, then it will be much more difficult to cut.
- Do not put pressure on the jigsaw. Otherwise, the device will heat up and may even fail.
- If the plywood has increased strength, then smear it tightly with oil. This will greatly facilitate the work.
- Do not operate the jigsaw at low speed for a very long time, otherwise the engine may overheat. At the end of the work, clean the tool and lubricate.
Other features of the process
We continue talking about how to cut plywood using electric jigsaw. If you plan to cut a round hole in the material, then first make a small hole and place a hacksaw blade in it. You can also use plunge sawing if the previous method didn't work.
Note! The electric jigsaw is also suitable for cutting bevels. Here you can additionally fix the guide so that you can cut evenly. Place the plywood face down to avoid chipping.
Using an electric jigsaw to cut plywood, you will not need to use any additional tools. However, they - devices - can still be used to make work easier and more comfortable.
If you are working with plywood of considerable thickness, then use a special table for sawing (so you can work more accurately). Finally, if you are working with material of different thicknesses, then use interchangeable plates attached to the tool.
As a result, we note that the electric jigsaw can be either with a pendulum stroke or with a conventional one. If the material is thick, the stroke should be normal. The plywood itself in this case must move vertically and be cut in the direction of travel.
Video - We cut with a jigsaw correctly
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The electric jigsaw is the most convenient and versatile tool for complex work on wood. With it, you can produce artistic carving, prepare various parts for carpentry and solve other problems.
Operating procedure
To get the best result of work, you need to know how to cut with a jigsaw correctly.
- The material being processed must be securely fastened. Poor workpiece clamping is one of the main causes of sawing errors. The jigsaw can jump off, go off the markup, or even go in an arc. By the way, if the jigsaw cuts crookedly, check if the direction of the cut does not coincide with the direction of the fibers. If this is the case, then it is better to make a cut with a circular saw.
- When it becomes necessary to make a cut on the inside of the workpiece, you should pre-drill a hole at the start of work.
- When working with the tool, do not make great efforts. electric tool saws wood well enough and without excessive pressure. If you make a serious effort to advance the jigsaw, the saw and motor get very hot, and the risk of breakage increases. Besides, overpressure - main reason chips.
- When sawing hardwoods, it is advisable to add a little machine oil to the blade.
- Sometimes you have to work at low speeds. In this case, it is necessary to take frequent breaks in work, as the saw gets very hot.
Problems with accuracy
Consider how to cut with a jigsaw exactly:
- The object of processing must be securely fixed. Moreover, in such a way that it was convenient to make a cut.
- In case of particular uncertainty or for a greater guarantee of accuracy, it makes sense to use guides. For straight cuts, you can use wooden block, fixed along the markup. If the shape of the cut is complex, then the situation becomes more complicated. In this case, you can use patterns, if any, or you will have to reduce the speed of work due to more accurate jigsaw guidance.
- One of the reasons why a jigsaw cuts crooked is problems with the saw. Perhaps it is dull or has chipped teeth. Noticing that the jigsaw literally turns itself where it likes, inspect the saw.
- Breakage of a jigsaw. For example, if the motor runs jerkily, the likelihood of a crooked cut increases dramatically. Likewise, other failures of the mechanism can lead to a drop in accuracy. Such problems are difficult to fix on the spot, as diagnostics are required, and possibly repairs.
- Finally, the skill of the performer greatly affects the accuracy of the work. If you are a novice carpenter, do not get upset because of periodic failures: accuracy comes with experience.
chipped
Another serious question is how to cut with an electric jigsaw without chipping? These usually form:
- with excessive pressure on the tool;
- when working on thin material near the edges without reinforcing stops;
- when using unsuitable (worn out) saw blades.
Avoid these actions, and you will reduce the likelihood of chipping to a minimum. Also, some models allow the use of special anti-splinter inserts for a jigsaw.
