How to attach the legs to the tabletop with your own hands. We work on every little thing: adjustable legs for the kitchen Fixing furniture legs

In the kitchen, the bulk of the entire working space is occupied by floor cabinets. They are designed to store dishes, food and other utensils. They are embedded in household appliances such as: dishwashers, ovens, stoves and more. And, of course, most of floor cabinet acts as a work surface. All these requirements for a headset require its reliability and convenience, and adjusting legs for cabinets can help with this. What are they, what are their advantages and how to properly install them? Let's consider in order.

Legs for kitchen floor cabinets

Buying ready-made kitchen set or made to order, the first thing you should pay attention to is its basis. The most common options for its execution is a kitchen base or legs. More rarely, lower cabinets are attached to the side wall, creating the effect of furniture floating in the air.

Adjustable kitchen legs

The main requirements put forward to the kitchen base are:

1. Strength Endurance. The base is the support for everything. He has to withstand the weight of not only the furniture itself, but also all the utensils that are stored inside it. And sometimes the weight of a person with power loads that occur during the cooking process at the cutting table.
2. The second function that the base must perform concerns the appearance of the product. It shouldn't come out of overall design throughout the kitchen, and harmoniously match it.

On the video - adjustable legs for the kitchen:

Now, given the main requirements, consider the options for the basis for the kitchen set.

Dacha is, of course, the place where you want to take a break from the bustle of the city, breathe in Fresh air and just drink fragrant herbal tea on the veranda. And the special charm of such a simple ceremony will be given by the arrangement of the dacha with furniture made independently.

When choosing materials for a table, first of all, you should pay attention to the quality of wood - not all wood is suitable for use. conifers, such as spruce and pine, are malleable and easy to work with, but such material is more flammable without proper processing, and the resins released can ruin the tablecloth.

Hardwoods (aspen, oak, ash) are more advantageous, products made from them are strong, durable and have an attractive appearance.

Materials and tools

For internal arrangement dachas and country houses long narrow ones are more acceptable, allowing you to move freely around the room. This should be taken into account when preparing everything necessary for work and designing the table itself.

For a table, it is preferable to use a board with a thickness of at least 30 mm. This thickness will ensure the strength of the table and the ability to withstand heavy loads. The optimal length ranges from 150-200 cm. You can purchase two ready-made wooden shield size 30-2000 mm.

Balusters or wooden bars for legs. Curly balusters will give homemade table production chic and luxurious look. And for the manufacture of legs from a bar, you need to choose boards with a minimum section of 50x50 mm. Comfortable Height the table is provided with a leg height of approximately 73-75 cm.

Other materials and tools

1. Boards 20 mm thick and 8-10 cm wide for the tabletop frame.
2. Wood putty.
3. Screwdriver and self-tapping screws 30 and 50 mm.
4. Sandpaper of various grits, as well as a holder.
5. Clamps for fixing legs and countertops.
6. Electric drill.
7. Sander.
8. Building level.
9. Square.
10. Roulette or centimeter.
11. Marker.
12. Glue.

Manufacturing steps

When preparing materials, all boards and beams are processed with a planer, grinder or coarse-grained sandpaper to remove irregularities, the remnants of cut knots, clean up cracks. The boards must be even and smooth, so they are sanded from all sides, including the ends, edges and corners.

If it is planned to manufacture a solid shield without gaps, then it is better to purchase grooved materials - this will create a stronger adhesion of a single web and save time on fitting elements. Chamfers are cut from the edges of the bars for the legs.

Table frame assembly

The frame helps to increase the strength and stability of the table, its dimensions are completely dependent on the parameters of the tabletop, but there are several general rules: both in length and in width, the frame should be 30-25 cm less than the countertop.

Video - Making a dining table for a summer residence

The frame itself is assembled from 4 boards that form the outer frame, and 6 internal cross bars. The boards are installed on the edge at a right angle using a square and tightened with 50 mm self-tapping screws. The joints are pre-lubricated with glue (PVA or carpentry). To prevent splitting of the boards, you can drill pilot holes in them and only then screw in the screws.

Along the length of the frame, markings are made for the cross bars, and guides are drilled. It is very important that the cross members are strictly perpendicular to both sides of the frame frame. The ends of the cross bars are smeared with glue, and the whole structure is fixed with self-tapping screws. Make sure that the screw heads do not protrude, but are completely “drowned” in the wood.

Table frame (manufacturing option)

The boards of the tabletop are connected, leveled with a tape measure and stacked face down on the floor, a frame is placed on top so that the cross planks lie tightly on the tabletop. Guides for self-tapping screws are drilled in the slats, and all elements are tightened with 30 mm screws. There are 5-6 self-tapping screws for each cross board.

Assembling the table legs

The tabletop is laid on a workbench or several stools for the subsequent installation of legs. The table leg is fixed in the corner of the frame with clamps, and guides for self-tapping screws are drilled in the frame.

Before attaching the legs, glue is applied to the end of the bar - this will protect the table from loosening and will contribute to greater strength. It is recommended to fix the leg on each side with four screws, but if desired, you can additionally use metal corners. Round balusters are fixed with long self-tapping screws on the front side of the table, and square ones - on corner fasteners.

Finishing

After installing the legs, the table is turned over and placed on the floor. Depending on the design of the table, corners are sawn off with a jigsaw along the radius or the end is completely rounded. Bevels can be cut from the edges of the tabletop and everything is carefully sanded.

If necessary, scratches and cracks resulting from work are repaired on wood. It is better not to touch the heads of the screws so that it is possible to tighten the structure.

After the final grinding, all dust and chips are removed from the table, and the product itself is covered with stain or several layers of varnish.

Tables with elements of decoupage decor or a single painting look beautiful and unusual. But to hide the beauty natural wood under a layer of paint is not worth it, modern varnishes and impregnations will perform all necessary work to protect the product from moisture.

Video - Table with legs for giving

Option 2. Stump table

Unusual and in a non-standard way to equip the backyard space is the creation of interior items from natural materials. When ennobling the territory, old or threatening trees are often cut down. If there is or was just such a tree at your dacha, then there will definitely be no problems finding a suitable stump. If the idea came spontaneously, then you can look for the desired stump in the clearings, in the nearest forest, or ask the owners of neighboring plots.

Materials and tools

To make such a fantasy table from a stump, you will need quite a bit:

• wood for the countertop, the recommended thickness of the countertop is from 20 mm, when choosing boards, you must follow the rule “the larger the countertop, the larger the cut of the board”;
• stump. For work, you will need a dried stump of any kind of wood, the main thing is that the wood is whole, not damp and not rotten. If the tree was cut down recently, then the stump must be properly dried. And it is better to do this by placing the stump in a warm, dry room or outdoors in sunny weather. It must be remembered that several weeks is not enough time for high-quality drying. As a rule, the whole process takes at least two months. You can determine the condition of the wood by the ease of separation of the bark - if the bark moves away without effort, then you can get to work;
• varnish for wood water based natural shade or transparent. It is this composition that will best emphasize the texture and dignity of natural wood;
• sandpaper of various grain sizes and a holder;
• planer or grinder;
• chisel;
• building level;
• roulette;
• hammer and nails;
• screwdriver and screws;
• abrasive fibre.

Manufacturing steps

Stage 1

The dried blank of the future table must be cleaned of bark. For this step, a chisel or chisel will come in handy. It is necessary to remove the bark very carefully and carefully so as not to damage the wood and prevent the appearance of cracks and splits. All soft and rotten areas also need to be removed.

Stage 2

After the bark has been removed, the stump must be leveled relative to the horizontal plane. To do this, using a level, a flat surface is prepared, and the base of the future table is installed on it.

If curvature is observed, then the shortcomings are eliminated with a planer. At the same stage of work, excessively large rhizomes of the stump and all unnecessary parts are sawn off with a hacksaw, the cuts from which are then polished.

Stage 3

The leveled stump is polished with a disc grinder, especially its horizontal parts. The sides of the stump are also polished, and hard-to-reach places are processed with coarse-grained sandpaper. This is a rather laborious process that requires a significant investment of time.

Stage 4

Cracks and recesses in the trunk must be cleaned of dirt and dust with a chisel, after which they should be carefully folded in half (working layer outward) with sandpaper to carefully process them from the inside. The remains of wood dust are cleaned with a brush or a building vacuum cleaner.

Stage 5

To prevent rotting of the stump and ensure air circulation between the table and the floor, furniture legs can be attached to the base from below. The presence of legs will make it more convenient to move the table.

You can choose any legs: metal, furniture wheels or special rubberized stands. It is best to fix them with self-tapping screws to the base of the stump, the number is chosen arbitrarily, based on the size of the table.

Stage 6

After installing the legs, we proceed to the crate of the upper part of the stump. To do this, we fill two parallel planks perpendicularly on the sidewalls, and on top two more rows of holders - a total of 6 planks fastened together with nails. This will be the frame for the countertop.

Stage 7

We fasten the prepared tabletop boards from below with transverse slats. The shape of the tabletop can be very diverse: round, rectangular, with rounded corners. The winning option looks like a table with a round or oval top.

To give this form, you can use homemade device from a thread, a pencil and a nail: the end of the thread is tied around the pencil, and the tip of the nail is placed in the middle of the tabletop, outlining the circle with a selected radius, after which all the excess is sawn off, and the edges and surface of the tabletop are processed with a grinder.

Stage 8

Holes and defects in the boards can be decorated with finely chipped shiny stones, filling them with varnish and treating them again after drying with a grinder to smooth the surface.

The finished tabletop is fixed from below on the crate with holders on nails or self-tapping screws matched to the size.

The finished table is varnished in several layers. After applying the first layer, the product is thoroughly dried and processed with fine-grained sandpaper. This will prevent flaking of the varnish, and subsequent layers will lie more evenly.

After removing the dust, the second and subsequent layers of varnish are applied without grouting. Optional, after drying last layer can be treated with abrasive fiber - this will remove excessive shine and give the surface a dull finish.

Such creative table will decorate any veranda, especially in a pleasant frame of green bushes or flower beds.

Video - Do-it-yourself table for giving from a stump

If the table sways, then the strapping has come loose.

Table: material, manufacturing technology, schemes, designs - simple and complex

If nothing is damaged, it can be glued again. But if you want to be sure, strengthen the harness.

Gaps between the legs of the table and the frame of the harness, creaking, rocking of the table, etc. are sure signs that something is wrong with the design of the harness. Where the connections have loosened because the glue no longer holds, the table loses its stability and requires immediate repair.

If the strapping has come loose, dismantling the whole structure is indispensable, because if you just add glue to the gaping cracks and reattach the frame, it will not last long. Glue must be added where there are contact planes, i.e. in the grooves and on side surfaces spikes.

And although the connection has already weakened in the castle structure, sometimes it is not so easy to separate the parts from each other. In order not to break off or damage anything, you need to pick up a hammer and knock it out with short, but strong blows spikes from grooves. In order for the glued places to be held again, scrape off old layer glue and remove the remnants of mastic or varnish, if any. When applying a new layer of adhesive, make sure that the legs are vertical and parallel and that the harness frame does not warp. To do this, place the table with the legs up on a flat surface and tighten the clamp evenly and alternately from both sides. The glue must dry before we begin to strengthen the strapping. Now we will work with wood (screwed metal corners do not provide strength and durability). From a single piece of pine or other hard rock, we will make stiffening corners with a thickness of at least half the height of the strapping. The corners are in the form of isosceles triangles, the vertices of which are cut into the upper end of the table leg so that contact planes are formed as closely as possible to each other. As a rule, the tops are cut at right angles. When all four corners are in place, the sides are smeared with glue and connected to the harness. Additionally, you can fix the structure with obliquely set screws.

1. The old elegant table, weakened by “age”, completely crumbled. But someone who knows how to restore furniture can work wonders.

2. Fasten the strapping, and set the legs, if possible, at a right angle.

3. When the areas to be glued are cleaned, the strapping is glued together by tightening it with a clamp.

5. Glue the fasteners at the corners of the strapping. Can also be fixed with screws.

b. Now the strapping is absolutely strong, you can mount the countertop on it.

4. Cut out triangles from a single piece of wood and cut the top into the edges of the table legs.

7. When the table is standing, the additional reinforcing corners are not visible.

Tools:

Hammer, clamp, chisel, narrow hacksaw, screwdriver

In most modern kitchen sets, the lower modules are installed on adjustable legs - supports and are covered with a single tabletop. With the help of adjustable legs, you can compensate for unevenness and slope of the floor, thereby leveling the overall tabletop covering the lower cabinets. Adjustable supports for kitchen sets are able to withstand significant loads and can be plastic and metal, which also perform a decorative function.

Plastic kitchen supports do not have a very attractive appearance, but a special clip is included with the leg, with which a kitchen plinth is attached to the support. The kitchen set, installed completely on plastic legs, closes at the bottom decorative plinth which can be removed if necessary. If you want to leave the legs open, then you should install decorative metal legs- supports.

Four kitchen supports are enough for one bottom module up to 800 mm wide. Wider and angular cabinets need more furniture legs. Also, if a vertical partition passes in the lower module, it is also desirable to install supports under it.

Regardless of the material installation of adjustable supports similar to each other. The kitchen leg is attached to the chipboard with four 16 mm self-tapping screws and one central bolt. Before installing the kitchen legs, set all the supports to the lowest position, that is, fully screw them.

kitchen with plinth and legs

Flip the bottom module over and start marking. Please note that if you plan to close the bottom of the kitchen set with a plinth, then step back 80 - 100 mm along the front edge to fix the legs. This is done with the aim that when you stand at the desktop, your legs will not rest on the plinth. Where the legs cannot be closed with a plinth, it will not be enough to move away from the edge by 50 mm.

To fix, mount one kitchen leg, step back 50 mm from both sides, draw a cross and put a dot at the intersection. Attach kitchen leg to the bottom of the module so that the dot is under one of the four holes. The other two holes should be above the lines of the drawn cross. Screw on the markup three screws, then screw the fourth. Do the same with the rest of the legs.

installing kitchen legs

Then, when you install all the legs on the kitchen set, proceed to align the lower cabinets on the countertop using a level and adjustable feet. Cover the lower modules with a tabletop.

We make a beautiful and strong country table with our own hands

Achieve a horizontal position of the countertop by adjusting the outer legs of the kitchen set. Then screw out the remaining supports so that they are firmly on the floor.

Installing the legs on the kitchen set with your own hands is not difficult, this requires care and accuracy.

A folding table on a balcony or loggia is a very rational thing. You can read a book behind it. Sit with friends with a bottle of beer. Or have a cup of coffee.

This article is dedicated specifically to folding structures. Such tables are often confused with stationary ones. In the photo on the Internet in the unfolded state, both the first and second are very similar. But if you look closely, the transformer table is more practical. It changes position and practically does not take up space on the balcony or loggia.

There is only one way to fold at the wall tables on the balcony. When folded, they are pressed against the wall of the loggia. But the mechanism that is responsible for fixing the tabletop is a big difference.

Convertible table with leg

As with all subsequent types (with the exception of tables with brackets), in this design the tabletop hangs on hinges attached to the wall. When you raise it to a horizontal position, you simply substitute the leg as a support from below. And that's it, the tabletop is holding.

The legs are often made separate, not connected with the main part. As a rule, they are joined in a deep hole in the bottom of the countertop. The essence of this design is that the folded table hangs as close as possible to the wall when folded. Its device is very simple and reliable.

So that the support is not lost, the mechanism was improved. It was simply screwed to the bottom of the table. Such a support has, on the one hand, a hinge, and on the other, an emphasis. The supporting part is a notch or a piece of rail screwed to a vertical surface with self-tapping screws.

These legs can be attached to the wall. And fixed in the recess of the tabletop. As the saying goes, change does not change the essence.

Table with folding support

Supports are usually stationary.

They have a triangular shape or close to it and work in the same way as the top part- on hinges. You lift the lid and move the support aside. Sometimes it is fixed, for example, by connecting a dowel + recess. Magnets or ball fasteners also serve as latches.

Such tables are reliable and beautiful, but unlike options with a removable leg, they are not as compact. The thicker the tabletop and the leg itself, the further such a table is moved away from the wall. For example, a table with a removable leg extends beyond the wall by 2-3cm, and a table with a flat support by 6-9cm.

This difference often plays against such a transformer.

Table on folding arms

For the past ten years, the industry has begun to produce mechanical brackets for folding tables.

The material for them, as a rule, is iron, ordinary iron, less often stainless steel.

There are usually not so many colors in stores; you can find black, white, chrome-plated mechanisms. But there are a lot of designs.

Works table on brackets without hinges. Rather, there are loops, but they are implemented inside the bracket.

One part of the bracket is attached to the wall, the other to the countertop. When the table top is lifted, the mechanism opens to 90° and locks itself. The moment of fixation is difficult to describe on paper. So let's look at the photo.

To lower the cover you need to pull it up or pull the lever.

DIY wooden kitchen table

At this time, the arm will work to lower and it will be possible to fold the furniture.

The cheapest brackets can stick. At the same time, the lid will recline and not fold. In this case, you have to climb under the table to unlock the mechanism.

Mechanism on gas-filled shock absorbers

Recently, a new mechanism has appeared for creating folding tables.

Our craftsmen adapted gas cylinders from the back door of a Niva car as a support for folding tables.

It looks something like this: the tabletop is hanging on hinges near the wall. Under it hides a cylinder filled with gas. This whole structure is held vertically either by a strap or some kind of latch.

To bring furniture into working position you just open the latch. At this point, the gas in the cylinder pushes the piston, and with it the hinged lid, up.

This design is new and has such advantages as: compactness (the cylinder has a diameter of only 18mm), opening speed of only 3 seconds, simplicity of design.

In most modern kitchen sets, the lower modules are installed on adjustable legs - supports and are covered with a single tabletop. With the help of adjustable legs, you can compensate for unevenness and slope of the floor, thereby leveling the overall tabletop covering the lower cabinets. Adjustable ones are able to withstand significant loads and can be plastic and metal, which also perform a decorative function.

Plastic kitchen supports do not have a very attractive appearance, but a special clip is included with the leg, with which it is attached to the support. The kitchen set, installed completely on plastic legs, closes at the bottom with a decorative plinth, which can be removed if necessary. If you want to leave the legs open, then you should install decorative metal legs - supports in visible areas.

Four kitchen supports are enough for one bottom module up to 800 mm wide. Wider and angular cabinets need more furniture legs. Also, if a vertical partition passes in the lower module, it is also desirable to install supports under it.

Regardless of the material installation of adjustable supports similar to each other. The kitchen leg is attached to the chipboard with four 16 mm self-tapping screws and one central bolt. Before installing the kitchen legs, set all the supports to the lowest position, that is, fully screw them.

Flip the bottom module over and start marking. Please note that if you plan to close the bottom of the kitchen set with a plinth, then step back 80 - 100 mm along the front edge to fix the legs. This is done with the aim that when you stand at the desktop, your legs will not rest on the plinth. Where the legs cannot be closed with a plinth, it will not be enough to move away from the edge by 50 mm.

To fix, mount one kitchen leg, step back 50 mm from both sides, draw a cross and put a dot at the intersection. Attach the kitchen leg to the bottom of the module so that the dot is under one of the four holes. The other two holes should be above the lines of the drawn cross. Screw on the markup three screws, then screw the fourth. Do the same with the rest of the legs.

Then, when you install all the legs on the kitchen set, proceed to align the lower cabinets on the countertop using a level and adjustable feet. Cover the lower modules with a tabletop. Achieve a horizontal position of the countertop by adjusting the outer legs of the kitchen set. Then screw out the remaining supports so that they are firmly on the floor.

Installing the legs on the kitchen set with your own hands is not difficult, this requires care and accuracy.

A steel bath is much lighter than a cast iron bath, for this reason it will be much easier to transport and install it. The weight of such equipment is small, therefore it cannot be installed in the center of the bathroom without relying on the walls. First you need to install steel bath on the legs. Reliable and stable legs for a steel bath - those that follow the contour of the bottom of the product itself, in addition, it is desirable that they be self-adhesive.

Some manufacturers include bolted steel bath supports in the installation kit. But this set of fasteners is not harmless to the surface of the products, because it can damage the enamel layer. In case of excessive load, the enamel may crack in the fastening area. In addition, the “regular” legs of bathtubs from some manufacturers, alas, do not differ in quality. Therefore, it is preferable to purchase universal legs for a steel bath on a self-adhesive basis.

Generally speaking, the installation of metal plumbing equipment is practically no different from the installation of cast iron (besides, of course, that they are easier to move). But there are still some differences.

Features of mounting a steel bath

Thanks to big weight and massiveness cast iron bathtubs can be installed in the middle of the bathroom, but the installation of a steel product in the same way is impossible: the bath must necessarily adjoin three walls.

Based on this, you first need to install a bath, and then lay the wall tiles. For the free passage of the bath between the walls, the distance from one wall to another should be equal to the linear dimensions of the product, plus five to six millimeters.

We fasten the legs

How to fix the legs of a steel bath? So, we have already decided on what is best on a self-adhesive basis. Such supports have the shape of the letter "P" with some deflection at the base. They have screws for adjustment with plastic tips. The most reliable set of legs for a steel bath has small feet and longer adjusting bolts.

Since metal products are not very weighty and can tip over under the weight of water or the weight of a person, additional support can be made for them in the form of masonry blocks or bricks. Naturally, this support is installed from the outside of the equipment.

After carrying out all the basic work on installing a plumbing fixture, the brick is tiled, so its original appearance does not play a special role. If you intend to make such a support, be sure to leave space below for free access to the siphon.

To install the legs on a steel bath, it is necessary to carry out the following operations:

Training

It is necessary to prepare a place for the installation of equipment. Immediately it is necessary to organize conclusions for sewer drain and future mixer. The next step is to treat the walls with moisture-proofing agents. If the corners between the walls are not straight, they need to be leveled. After that, you can proceed to the installation of a plumbing fixture.

Leg mounting

• First you need to turn the bath upside down. In order not to scratch the enamel layer, it is better to use cardboard or a layer of foam rubber as a substrate. When buying a product in a cardboard package, you can simply leave it on.
• The legs for a metal bath must first be tried on to the places of future installation. One pair of legs should be installed at a distance of about two centimeters from the outlet towards the center of the product.
• The second pair of legs is placed close to the second edge of the equipment.

Tip: In order for the legs to fit very well to the bottom, you can manually trim the depth of the deflection of the channel. In any case, it is advisable to do such a procedure not under the bath, but somewhere on the sidelines on the substrate.

• At the joints of the product, its surface must be degreased with undiluted alcohol or acetone. After that, you need to remove the protective layer from the lining, put the legs in the right places and press hard to the bottom of the equipment. It is also advisable to degrease the mounting points with alcohol, but in no case use a solvent.

Tip: In order for the protective layer to easily come off the lining, it can be heated with a building or ordinary household hair dryer.

• The threaded studs for adjustment must be carefully and slowly driven all the way into the plastic tips, while making sure that the thread is not damaged. If you do not have a rubber mallet, then it is better to tighten the complete nuts on the studs before driving. After that, the nuts must be screwed up to the tips, and the studs must be screwed into the points assigned to them on the support.
• In order to avoid incidents, you immediately need to evaluate the parameters of the door to the bathroom, because it can be narrow. In this case, it will not be possible to bring equipment with attached legs into the room without damaging the legs. Then it is desirable to attach the legs already in the bathroom itself.

Leveling the bathtub

• After installing the product in the right place, do not forget that the height of the steel bath with legs must be at the same level on all sides. To do this, you can use the level and in case of a height discrepancy on one side of the equipment and the other, simply adjust it using the adjustment screws on the legs themselves.
• Further, in the corners between the sides of the bathtub and the walls, four narrow wooden wedges must be hammered. The gaps between the edge of the steel equipment and the wall should be filled with special mounting foam from a gun. After it has completely solidified, it is necessary to pull out the wooden wedges.
• To ensure that water is not poured under the bath, on top of polyurethane foam, in level with the sides of the product, you can put a layer of silicone.

Conclusion

Upon completion of all stages, place under plumbing equipment you can lay a brick, or just install a decorative sliding screen. Then the installation metal product can be considered completed.