How to fix a bathtub: step-by-step instructions, simple methods, tips from the masters. How to install a bathtub with your own hands: the sequence and subtleties of the work Installation of a steel bathtub on a rule

Installing a rectangular bathtub on a factory frame

Step 1. We print the purchased bathtub and the factory frame and lay it out on a clean floor, having previously laid a soft cloth or cardboard. In the set of fasteners, you will find short and long metal profiles, self-tapping screws, legs and pads for them (thrust bearings), dowels, pins, washers, nuts, racks. Depending on the configuration, the number of parts may be different, for example, there are more metal profiles in the reinforced frame, or the bathtub is supplied immediately with an all-welded frame.

Usually, holes have already been drilled in the fittings and dowels are inserted. This eliminates the need to make markings and drill holes yourself.

Acrylic bathtubs for the most part are installed not only on the frame, but are also fixed along the line of abutment to the walls with metal hangers.

If the kit does not include drain fittings, it must be purchased, taking into account the height of the legs and comparing it with the dimensions of the siphon.

For work, you will definitely need screwdrivers, wrenches and pliers. Also, don't forget the silicone-based sealant, bubble level, tape measure, and pencil.

Step 2. We start by assembling the frame and legs. We turn the bath over without removing the protective film from the inner surface. We provide easy access to either side of the bowl.

Using long self-tapping screws, we connect the profiles. We rely on the instructions attached to the acrylic bath and the correspondence of the holes in the longitudinal reinforcement with the dowels installed in the transverse strips.

Place the assembled frame exactly in the center of the bath bottom.

Step 3. We proceed to the installation of the legs. We will install three pieces on the front edge of the bath, two - under the bottom of the bowl and two more at the edge, which will adjoin the wall.

We begin to fasten the racks with the profile and the side of the bath. We install the stand on the side, screw the first long hairpin into it, and a nut onto the hairpin. The resulting stud with the rack is inserted into the hole of the longitudinal metal profile. We fix the stud with a nut and a locknut. We fasten the plastic support-bearing on top.

Similarly, we collect the remaining support legs. We adjust the height of the legs depending on the dimensions of the decorative screen. The approximate height from the floor to the edge of the side board should be 60 cm.

For the legs located under the bottom of the bathtub, there are short hairpins. We insert them into the holes of the transverse profiles, fasten them with nuts and screw on the plastic supports.

Step 4. Check the assembled frame with a bubble level.

If necessary wrench we twist the studs, leveling the position.

We take short self-tapping screws and fasten the racks to the sides of the bath.

Step 5. Turn the bath over. We take the level and once again double-check the horizontality of the sides. There is no need to make slopes for better water flow.

Step 6. Now you can connect a siphon with an overflow, relying on the manufacturer's instructions. General Principle connection of revision siphons (strapping) of the knee type is as follows:

Note! Before the stage of the final installation of the bath and the screen, it is possible to insulate the bottom of the bowl with polyurethane foam, applying it in a thin stream to the sides, the bottom and partially capturing the fasteners in order to additionally fix them.

Step 7. When the siphon is assembled and the bath is level, it remains to make markings on the walls, drill holes and fix brackets or hooks on the wall that will hold the bath. We put the edge of the bath on these hooks, and insert the free end of the thick corrugation of the siphon into the sewer hole. After docking, apply a strip to the place where the bath adjoins the wall silicone sealant and attach the skirting board or protective strip.

Note! To check the quality of the siphon installation and the correct installation of the structure, you should dial full bath cold water and wait a few hours. If no leaks or distortions are found, you can drain the water, install a decorative screen and use the bathroom. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble and assemble all products in order to eliminate defects.

Step 8. Install the decorative screen. Clips are included. First, the upper fasteners are screwed on, after which the opposite ones are the lower ones. The decorative panel simply snaps onto them.

Attach the squeeze plates to the embedded elements, setting a distance of 2 mm between the side of the bath and the edge of the squeezing plate

You can also make a frame for a decorative panel from wooden bars or metal profiles.

Installing the bathtub on bricks

No factory frame? Not a problem! We can install acrylic bathtub on bricks. This option is even more reliable compared to the method of installing the bath on a factory-made frame.

The support can be solid or columnar.

Installing the bathtub on a solid brick substrate

First step. We temporarily install the bathtub in the place of its future installation and project the drain hole onto the base. This will give us the opportunity to leave a gap in the substrate for connection.

Second step. We spread the bricks on the area of ​​the entire supporting part of the container. We select the height so that the sides of the bathtub rise above the floor by no more than 600 mm. At the same time, we take into account that we will still have a 2-3 cm pillow made of polyurethane foam.

We lay the bricks on traditional cement mortar.

Third step. We assemble a plywood frame around the perimeter of the brickwork. The height of such sheets should exceed the masonry by the thickness of the foam backing. Do not forget to leave the drain hole empty.

Fourth step. Foam the surface of the substrate evenly with polyurethane foam, without going beyond the frame. Immediately apply pre-prepared sheet plywood onto the foam. We use moisture resistant sheets 10 mm thick.

Fifth step. We seal the drain of the acrylic bathtub tightly. At the same stage, we prepare about a liter of water and wooden supports to adjust the level of the container installation.

Sixth step. Pour the previously prepared water into the container and put the bath on a substrate at the building level.

Seventh step. Until the polyurethane foam hardens, adjust the evenness of the bath installation using the props. As a result, the water in the tank should be evenly distributed around the drain, and the level should show "0".

Eighth step. Putting the bath on a level, pour water into it about half the volume. Under the weight of the water, the foam will not be able to raise the container, and the bath itself will take the required slope.

Ninth step. Let the foam dry and remove the bath. If the edges of the container are to be recessed into the wall, we first outline the contour of the edge on the surface, and then make a recess in the wall for the edge of the bathtub. A puncher will help us with this. If the arrangement of the groove is not provided (this is not recommended if the walls are made of blocks, drywall or other light material), at the level of the lower cut, we simply fix the impregnated timber, or a steel corner. We will additionally reinforce the support bar at the end with stops.

Tenth step. We return our container to its place and connect it to the sewer. Blow out the cracks between the container and the bricks with foam. Installing a decorative screen and skirting boards.

An example of a bathtub installed on bricks with mosaics

First step. We bring the container into the bathroom.

Second step. We mark the base at the place where the brick supports are installed. Most correct option- erection of pillars closer to the edges of the bend of the acrylic bathtub. If the container is long, an additional support can be erected in the middle.

Third step. Having outlined the places for laying the supports, we proceed to the preparation of the cement mortar. We don't cook too much - we have to lay out no more than 20 bricks, so we don't need extra expenses.

Fourth step. Let's start laying. We spread the support for the back of the bath to a height of 190 mm, and erect the pillar for the front edge of the tank by 170 mm. The height of the middle support, if necessary, is selected according to the situation, depending on the design of the bath being installed. The difference in the height of the pillars will provide conditions for an effective drainage of water from the tank.

Important note! Many modern acrylic bathtubs initially have a sloped bottom to allow water drainage. If you have such a bath, we set all the supports in level, focusing on the upper part.

Fifth step. We give the masonry about a day to dry and install the bath. We set the container slowly, pushing it tightly against the walls. Fill the gaps between the bricks and the bathroom with sealant.

If desired, you can additionally fix the bathtub to the wall using dowels and a metal profile. Such a mount is rarely used, but it still occurs.

After making sure of the correctness, stability and evenness of the bathtub installation, we connect the sewage system, install, mount the decorative screen and lay the plinth on the bathtub.

Video - Installing an acrylic bathtub with a combined method

Video - How to install an acrylic bathtub yourself

Video - We put an acrylic bathtub with our own hands

The bathroom occupies an important place in the life of a modern person. In fact, this is the place, well of course after the bedroom, where a person begins and ends his day. The place where we put ourselves in order, the place where we wash our things and perform hygiene procedures, and most importantly, this room in which we relax, lying in warm water and thinking about the eternal!

And despite a large number of functions assigned to this room, how microscopic it sometimes happens. I would even say criminally microscopic, when two people who find themselves in such a bathroom at the same time are unlikely to be able to disperse.

It's no secret that the bathroom (the bowl itself) takes up a lot of space and, accordingly, the amount will depend on how it is installed free space, ease of movement and ease of use of other plumbing fixtures. Given the fact that until recently in most housing stock very little space was allocated for this room, when carrying out capital, the correct installation of this huge water tank is of paramount importance.

The issue of organizing space

Now we will consider the issue of bath installation, connection to the sewer system using the example of a small Soviet-era bathroom.

Of course, despite the small size of the room, I want to put this ancient invention more so that the length allows not only sitting down, but also lying in warm water and relieving the fatigue accumulated during the day. Therefore, before the installation is carried out, one must ask another question: - And where in the bathroom is it generally best to place it? After all, since this accessory for bathing was installed during the "Soviet" times, it is not a fact that this is the best option.

I will tell you my experience in this matter. The size of my bathroom is just microscopic (length 2.5 m, width 1.35 m), but I wanted to put the bathroom in it, and, and, and. And you know, I did it! Initially, the bathroom was 1.5 m long. long wall, and the toilet stood at the end, as in the photo below.

After a little reflection, I decided to put it along short wall the room, which is only 1.35 m long, into the place of the toilet, and free up space as much as possible. As always, I want a little more, and I decided to put a bathtub 1.5 m long along this wall, i.e. without losing anything in the volume of poured water.

To do this, I had to make a strobe 8 cm deep on the walls at the height of the sides on one side and on the other. a place.

He brought the bath, inserted it into the strobe from one end and, like on rails in the strobes, pushed it all the way to the wall adjacent to the long side of a four hundred liter container. The work is, of course, hard, but it is better to spend a little effort and time, so that later it is as convenient as possible to use all the plumbing accessories.

But this is so, a lyrical digression, how you can save the existing space and not lose the quality of the surrounding plumbing. All the same, I will turn to the description of how to install the bathtub - our main question.

DIY step-by-step instructions for installing a bathtub

The technology for installing a cast-iron and steel bathing tank will be approximately the same, except that the cast-iron bath weighs a lot and, accordingly, is harder to work with. Step by step, this process will look like this:

Step 1... We fasten the legs in the inverted position to the bathtub.

On cast iron baths, due to its manufacture using casting, sometimes there are sagging (casting defects) at the places where the legs are installed. These nodules impede the full and good fit of the leg to the body, and in this case it is recommended to remove excess metal using an abrasive wheel attached to a grinder (grinder). In no case should you knock with a hammer (mechanically knock down with a chisel) nodules. Cast iron is a very fragile material and as a result of an unsuccessful blow, a new thing can be irretrievably lost.

Step 2... We bring in the bathroom and put it in place.

I have performed this procedure before. This makes it possible to press our "artificial sea" as close as possible to the wall and adjoin the ribs with tiles, as a result of which the seam between the bathroom and the wall is minimal, and its sealing is not difficult. In my case, I just passed the grout between the bathroom and the wall when grouting.

Step 3... We set the bath to the desired height.

At this step, you need to pay attention to the height of the location of your sewer system. The height of the legs with screwed-in adjusting bolts assumes the location of the drainage system at a height of no more than 50-100 mm from the floor level. The drain level should be 20-30 mm higher than the sewerage level. If this condition is not met, it is necessary to put lining under the legs until the required height difference is formed.

Step 4... We adjust the horizontal alignment of the installation in the longitudinal and transverse directions.

To do this, we apply a level in the longitudinal and transverse directions to the edge of the bath.

By screwing or unscrewing the adjusting bolts located on the legs, we achieve horizontality. If the level in the longitudinal and transverse directions shows the horizon, then the bath is installed correctly. Due to the natural slope of the bottom, which is due to the technological feature of the casting of the product, a natural flow of water into the drain hole is obtained.

At this stage, after finishing the horizontal position, I additionally secured the achieved position by filling the grooves along which the installation was carried out.

Additionally, tighten the lower lock nut on the leg adjusting bolts.

Step 5... Sewer drain installation.

The odor trap for draining water from the bathroom is sold disassembled, as in the photo below.

So let's start with assembling it. And the first step is to collect individual nodes.

• We put on gaskets on the hose connecting the drain and overflow;

Moreover, it is necessary to pay attention that the gasket is made on a cone and the thin side should be turned towards the ends of the tube.

• We put on drain hose mounting plastic nut and gasket;

We also orient the gasket with the thin side to the nearest end of the tube.

• We put fastening nuts and gaskets on the component parts of the drain body;

• We assemble the drain body by screwing the drain neck to one end, and a part of the body to the other;

As a result, we get a system of pipes that forms a water seal. It constantly contains water and prevents the penetration of unpleasant odors from the sewer system into our premises.

Please note that when assembling the elements, the tapered gasket of one part must enter into inner diameter other mating part, and, tightening the plastic nut, tighten the resulting connection.

• We connect the drain body to the drain pipeline.

We also insert the pipeline into the drain body, correctly filling the gasket, and tighten it with a connecting nut.

• We collect the overflow.

Putting on the sealing rubber ring, insert the overflow system housing with inside baths. On the front side, we apply a decorative metal plate and fix the entire structure by tightening the bolt.

• From the inside of the bath, into the overflow body, insert the tube connecting the overflow and the drain body;

• We fix the drain body to the bath. We first insert a sealing gasket into the drain hole of the bath.

Comfortable living in the house is out of the question. This room is the "face" of each person. Its appearance speaks of the wealth of the family, the style of the owner and his accuracy. Everyone knows that the central place in the bathroom is the bathtub, which is directly used for taking hygiene procedures.

It is important not only to choose the right one, but also to install the container. Therefore, you need to know how to fix the bath correctly when carrying out repair work in the room. Of course, you can use the services of specialists, but it is quite possible to carry out the installation of the container yourself.

So, let's look at how it is attached modern plumbing made from different material.

Current methods of installing a bath

The installation method of the bath directly depends on its location. So how do you secure your bathtub?

1. Fastening to walls and floors. One of the most common installation methods for angular plumbing. It is also often used when installing a bowl in a prepared niche.
2. Fixing to the floor. In this case, the container is installed at a distance from the walls.

Depending on the type of fasteners used, the following methods of container mounting are distinguished:

• Whether regulated or not adjustable legs... Ideal for fixing cast iron or steel baths, with which such supports are often included in the kit.
• On brickwork... A universal solution for metal baths, which guarantees the stability and reliability of the structure as a whole.
• On adjustable supports or metal structures. This option is often used to install acrylic plumbing fixtures.

Let's take a closer look at the most popular ways to properly fix the bath.

Features of mounting a steel bath

A steel bath is an acceptable option for many apartments and houses. Plumbing stores offer a wide range of selection of these products. The choice of capacity parameters directly depend on the area and the wishes of the owners. The standard configuration includes tubs measuring 0.75 m by 1.7 m.

When choosing such plumbing, remember that it is characterized by a lot of weight. It significantly complicates the installation and makes special demands on the stability and strength of the fasteners.

The product instructions indicate that such a container must be installed on special legs. The presence of these supports greatly simplifies installation. It is necessary to properly fix the supports, which often come with plumbing fixtures. The bath is now ready for installation.

But often such containers are installed on brickwork. How to fix the bath in this case?

Features of mounting a steel bathtub on brickwork

The masonry provides good rigidity compared to the use of standard legs.

• So, the arrangement of the bathroom begins with unpacking the container itself. We correlate its parameters with the dimensions of the footprint.
• Remember that in order to correctly, quickly and efficiently install the container, it is necessary that the distance between the wall and the sides of the bowl is at least 2.5 cm. This requirement does not apply to the installation of corner baths.
• We install the bowl on the previously prepared spacers. They should be located close to the seamy side of the sides.
• We connect the siphon correctly.
• Using a spirit level (level), we check the position of the bowl relative to the horizon. If necessary, align the container by changing the angle of inclination of the spacers.

• The brickwork must be initially laid out under the part of the bathtub where the legs of the structure should have been located.
• The last row of masonry must be brought out close to the bathtub wall. For this, pieces of brick are used.
• We leave the masonry to dry for several days. Then we check the struts and the stability of the structure.
• Along the perimeter of the brick bathtub, lay out the screen under the very side.

Many believe that this is the most reliable and relatively inexpensive way to fix the bathroom.

Do you need a screen?

You can also tile the brick screen to match the walls.

Remember that the screen will not only serve as a decorative function. It also provides additional rigidity to the entire structure. When constructing a side, try to keep the masonry adjacent to its lower part along the perimeter. This will prevent the bowl from skewing if the lower supports are suddenly not strong enough.

This method of installing a bathroom is relevant only for metal. Therefore, it should not be used for acrylic bowls.

Fixing the bathroom to the wall and to the floor

Mounting metal structure on brickwork is quite simple. But how to fix the bathtub to the wall and to the floor?

The metal bath must be installed on a standard support structure.

It may happen that the studs of the support legs are slightly smaller than the previously assumed size. In other words, if, for example, it was planned to install a container under a side height of 60 cm, and a bathroom with turned-out legs reaches a height of 57 cm.

This problem can be easily solved by slicing required thickness pieces of tiles. The bathtub will be securely fixed with their glued elements at the location of the legs.

Then it is necessary to measure the location of the lower edge of the side and install metallic profile according to the markup made earlier.

We seal the fasteners along the wall with silicone. To do this, in the upper part of the profile, stepping back 1-2 mm, apply silicone sealant.

We move it to the wall in such a way that its supports fall into place. If you have glued additional pieces of tiles, it is necessary to install the bath not earlier than in a day. After all, the silicone must completely polymerize.

With the metal bath sorted out. And how to fix the acrylic bathtub, which is very popular today?

Installing an acrylic corner bath on supports

Acrylic bathtubs are very popular today. The main advantage is its low weight. But how do you fix an acrylic bathtub? To the wall or to standard supports?

The installation of a bath from this material on the supports takes place in the following sequence:

• The product is removed from the package.
• It is necessary to spread a blanket or carpet on the floor, which will keep the glossy surface from scratches. The bowl is turned over onto the covered floor.
• We measure the sides of the bath, correlate them with the dimensions of the seat. Corner bath must always be installed correctly. In this case, the two walls that form the seat must converge with each other at right angles. Otherwise, there will be a gap between the walls and the bathroom, which is quite difficult to cover with something.
• We prepare all the components for the manufacture of the bathtub frame.
• We lay out all the components separately. This will make it easier to get to them. So how do you secure the bathroom legs?
• We carefully insert the plugs into the ends of the legs. We snap them well.
• We screw the studs into the adjusting legs (inside which there is a thread).

• We screw 2 locknuts onto the studs.
• We collect the profile from which the frame itself will be made in the future.
• The profile has a hole in the insert. The adjusting leg pin is screwed into it.
• The first locknut must be screwed close to the profile, the second to the leg. So the structure will not only be stable, but also reliable.
• We install the profiles on the bowl. We fasten them with self-tapping screws that are included in the kit.
• When assembling the second profile, it is necessary to prepare long and short hairpins.
• The smaller stud must be screwed in with the locknuts in the same way as the legs.
• But the pancake pin must be screwed from the side of the profile, which should be located on the side of the ledge of the side of the bowl itself.
• We install plastic legs on both sides on a screwed-in longer hairpin. Thus, one leg of the bowl should rest against the floor, and the other against the side of the acrylic container.
• After installing the legs on both sides, tighten the nuts. At the same time, please note that after installing the support legs on the profile, their caps must be placed at the same level. Using a ruler, you can check the location of the extreme points of the support legs. To do this, it is enough to measure the distance from the surface of the plug to the surface of the profile.
• You can assume that the acrylic bathtub is ready. Assembled structure can be turned over and installed in a prepared place.
• Using a level, we check the position of the bowl. If necessary, align the legs by unlocking the nuts on the supports.

Reinforced fastening of the acrylic bathtub

The above methods of how to fix the bath are considered the most popular. But the acrylic bowl can be fixed in another way. After all, long-term operation of the bath on supports shows that this installation method has one drawback. Under the weight of a person, the bowl crunches in the area between the reinforced profiles. What to do if the bathtub sways? How to fix it correctly?

This minor flaw not critical, but it is advisable to eliminate it. To do this, you need to prepare standard foam concrete blocks size 250 mm by 625 mm.

Having decided to install the bath on blocks, pay attention to the placement of the profile mounting frame. It must be spaced at a distance of 65 cm.

Foam concrete blocks must be installed under the bowl on polyurethane foam. After the foam hardens completely, the bath will become motionless and stop crunching.

This method of installing the bathtub requires a minimum financial costs, because you only need to purchase a can of foam and a few bricks.

Features of manufacturing the structure of reinforced fasteners

So, installation work consists in performing sequential actions:

• We raise the bath on maximum height using the adjusting feet.
• We blow strips around the perimeter of the future brick laying polyurethane foam.
• Apply foam to the brick, lay it on the floor.
• We lower the bowl on the foam using adjustable supports, which are secured with nuts.
• After 24 hours, you can use the plumbing.

For better adhesion of the foam to the floor or brick, it is recommended to moisten the surface with water from a spray bottle.

Remember that when securing an object, you significantly complicate the implementation of repair and installation works generally. What else should you pay attention to before fixing the bathtub on legs?

Water stack

Correct device water drain is necessary for the normal functionality of plumbing in the bathroom. It depends not only on the parameters of the siphon, as many non-professionals believe. The main condition of the stack must be met: all siphon pipes and drain must be located above the level sewer pipe.

A large difference in height will allow the water to leave faster. Thanks to the fast flow, the liquid will be able to automatically clean the pipeline. As a result, you will have to make less frequent repairs and preventive examinations.

Remember: before attaching the bowl, you must raise the adjustable feet as high as possible. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the height does not affect the comfort of using the bathroom. The distance between the floor and the sides of the bathroom should be at the optimum value.

Choosing a hose in a siphon

Experts recommend replacing flexible corrugated hoses in the siphon with smooth ones plastic pipes... Of course, it is easier to work with them, because you do not need to comply with the dimensions, they can be quickly bent in any position. But in the folds of the corrugation, dirt accumulates, which is difficult to remove by simple washing. With frequent disassembly of the siphon, they may suffer rubber seals and even threaded connections. As a result, serious damage occurs, which later requires the replacement of the entire device.

And if the bathtub is attached to the floor, then all the repair work is extremely difficult to carry out. Experts recommend purchasing siphons, in which an ordinary bend of the tube performs the function of a sump. So the smell will not get into the room, blockages will be much less frequent. And when they occur, you do not need to disassemble the structure, it is enough to use a conventional plunger.

Bath quality

Experienced plumbers recommend giving preference to imported bath manufacturers. Unfortunately, modern domestic bowls cannot be of high quality. This applies not only to the coating, but also to the geometry of the product.

In domestic products, the corners of the sides are rarely straight. And an error of a few degrees over a long length can turn into a few millimeters. Therefore, in this case, a wedge-shaped gap is often formed between the flat wall and the rim of the bowl. It is not recommended to hide it with a silicone seal, because the error will be too visible. In this case, use ceramic or plastic special skirting boards, which must be mounted on fixed surfaces. The corners come off at the slightest vibration. Re-sticking them is not recommended.

Output

Arrangement of a bathroom is an important task that every owner who has little experience in the construction industry can handle. Now you know how to fix the bathtub to the wall without difficulty.

Steel bath - the most cheap option, at correct installation and additional processing in terms of its performance is in no way inferior to more expensive counterparts. The main advantage of heavy cast iron baths is long time keeps warm. But in order to warm up cast iron, you need a lot hot water, and this is due to additional losses of thermal energy. In addition, during the adoption water treatments the water cools down anyway, the heat goes out through large area unprotected surfaces. There is an easy way to fix this flaw, if you wish. performance characteristics an ordinary steel bath can be brought to a high standard.

An important point, the right choice simplifies installation and increases the comfort of use.

What are the criteria for classifying baths?

Parameter	Meaning and tips for choosing
	105 × 70, 120 × 70, 130 × 70, 140 × 70, 150 × 70, 160 × 70, 170 × 70, 170 × 75, 180 × 80. Choose the length and width of the bath taking into account the size of the room and the height of the residents. Try to keep the product as tight as possible to the opposite walls, this will greatly simplify the installation process.
	110, 120, 123, 136, 150, 170, 195, 210, 240. The volume directly depends on the depth, and this parameter affects the height of the edge. If elderly people or children live in the house, then you should not buy a voluminous bathtub, it is difficult to get in and out of it. In addition, a large volume will require significant losses of hot water. But, on the other hand, the more water, the longer the comfortable temperature remains.
	Bolted or double-sided tape. The first option is used by serious manufacturers, bolted fastening is more reliable, in most cases it does not require additional reinforcement or installation on bricks. Legs on scotch tape - a budget option, does not differ in stability. The legs can help to level the plane of the bath horizontally; to increase the reliability of fixation, installation on brick pads is recommended.
	All steel baths are enamelled. But the quality of the coating is different. Domestic manufacturers cover the worst. Insufficient enamel thickness and low quality of the composition in terms of physical strength reduce the service life. As a consequence - the need to restore the enamel (long and unreliable) or replacement.

Approach the choice of the size of the bath responsibly, take into account the characteristics of the residents and the room. Poor quality enamel can be recognized by several signs.

1. Swipe over the surface with your hand. The surface should be perfectly smooth. Roughness or " sea ​​waves»Indicate a violation of the annealing conditions. Such a coating will quickly get dirty and requires constant cleaning.
2. Inspect the flooring from various angles. If the standard thickness is not observed, then in some places the shade of white changes.
3. Pay attention to the area of ​​the bottom near the drain. There are cases when the drain is in the same plane or protrudes slightly above the surface. In this bath, the water will not go away completely; a small amount of it always remains near the drain. After drying, calcium is deposited in these places, over time it acquires a yellow tint.

Practical advice. Steel bathtubs belong to the segment of inexpensive goods, you do not need to buy the cheapest ones. Additional savings will ultimately bring losses, purchase products only from well-known, time-tested and numerous buyers of manufacturers.

steel bath

Site preparation

At the place of installation of the bathroom, there should already be sewer and water pipes... Check the level of the floor and the corners of the room. If the angle between the walls is not 90 °, then this disadvantage must be taken into account when installing the bath.

The flooring must be horizontal.

Of course, with the help of legs or bricks, the bathtub will be installed evenly, but there may be problems with water drainage during leaks. The fact is that it is difficult to detect small leaks under the bathroom, all elements are closed. If water accumulates against the wall, and the leaks are insignificant, then a fungus will certainly appear in this place. Getting rid of it is difficult, time consuming and expensive. In some cases, you will have to completely dismantle the bathtub, do a set of special measures and reinstall the bathtub. Minor leaks can appear for various reasons, it is impossible to completely guarantee their absence. If water flows towards the screen, then the problem is immediately visible, the reasons are promptly eliminated and Negative consequences minimal.

Siphon and overflow installation

These elements must be installed before installing the bath in place. In terms of their design and connection technology, all systems are the same, the only difference is in the price and material of manufacture.

Step 1. Turn the tub upside down. To protect the enamel from mechanical damage during overturning, place cardboard or soft cloth on the floor. Do not do such work yourself, call an assistant. Together, the process is not only significantly accelerated, but the quality of installation is also improved.

Step 2. Study the assembly instructions, check the completeness of the siphon. Pay attention to the gaskets, they differ in appearance and size. Do not mix up the gaskets, each must be installed in its place.

Step 3. Assemble the siphon, fix it in the drain hole. Do not use too much force, do not damage the oil seals and gaskets. To facilitate the assembly of the structure, it is recommended to use technical vaseline or moisten the surfaces with soapy water.

The upper part is fixed inside the bathtub, the lower one - under the bathtub drain hole

Important. The drain gasket has a groove that divides it into unequal parts in thickness. The thin side should go into the inside of the bath, the thick side should be on the back. Don't change position. Otherwise, the plastic element will protrude above the surface of the bath, the water will not be able to completely leave. The rest after drying forms on the bottom yellow spots you will have to delete them frequently. All cleaning agents contain compounds that provide Negative influence on the enamel. Let their concentration and insignificant, but with repeated use, the thickness of the enamel decreases.

Step 4. Turn the bath on its side, install the gaskets one by one and screw on the plastic parts of the drain and overflow. It is much easier to do this together. One should hold the parts, and the other should tighten with a fastening bolt. Do not use too much force, the plastic may crack.

Check the tightness of the connections. It is better to do this before installing the bath in place, it will be easier to eliminate leaks. Everything is fine - you can install the legs.

Installation of legs

We have already mentioned that the legs can be fixed with double-sided tape or nuts. In the first option, no problems should arise. You just need to make sure that they do not interfere with the revision of the siphon and ensure the stability of the bath.

Assembling the second version of the legs will be more difficult. It is impossible to give general recommendations, each manufacturer develops its own design. Look at the pictures, read the recommendations. It is necessary to achieve reliable fixation of all structural parts to the bath.

Adjust the position of the bath using the threads on the legs, check the horizontal position in two directions with a level. When you find the right position, be sure to secure the threads of the legs with nuts. They should not wobble, otherwise the slope of the bath will change over time. In addition, gaps will appear between the wall and the bathroom. To fix the problem, you will have to make additional stops under the bottom.

And one more piece of advice. Unfortunately, there are defective bathtubs, their bottom slope at the factory does not provide a complete drainage of water. To prevent such situations, practitioners are advised to immediately increase the slope of the bath bottom towards the drain hole by a few millimeters. It is invisible to the eye, but there will be a guarantee of the normal functioning of the drain.

Warming the bowl

A very significant point, it makes it possible to significantly reduce the consumption of warm water, which is important taking into account modern prices for utilities. After warming the bowl, the bathtub significantly surpasses all expensive counterparts on the market in terms of heat saving. In addition, it does not increase weight, perfectly dampens unpleasant sounds during filling with water.

How is the bowl insulated?

Step 1. Work must be done in an overturned position. Recommended immediately after installing the weir siphon and feet. Buy two or three cans of polyurethane foam. The cheaper the better. The fact is that cheap foam significantly increases in volume during solidification, which is exactly what we need. More volume - more air bubbles, less heat loss. A low price is explained by the low indicators of the compression force, this parameter in our case does not play any role.

Step 2. Clear outer surface baths. If it has grease on it, you will have to wash it off with solvents. Working with solvents is unsafe to health, ensure maximum ventilation of the room. It is best to work outdoors rather than indoors. Be sure to wear respiratory protection.

Step 3. After the solvent has completely dried, moisten the bottom surface with a spray bottle. Moisture increases the coefficient of foam adhesion to the bottom by an order of magnitude. In addition, water contributes to the optimal mode of chemical reactions, the foam hardens much faster.

Step 4. Shake the foam bottle thoroughly, put on a special plastic tube. Start covering the bottom with foam. The process will go faster if you apply it in sectors from the bottom up. The foam should lie in even rows at a distance of no more than a centimeter. The rows are wider - not a problem, after solidification, the gaps will recover. If the surface dries up, re-wet it with a sprayer. Do not touch wet foam with your hands, do not try to "stick" it to the surface. In addition to additional problems, you will get nothing. The foam will no longer increase in volume, and it is almost impossible to wash your hands. It will take a long and tedious knife to scrape it off.

Step 5. Wait for the foam to harden, check the evenness of the coating, blow out the gaps.

Practical advice. If foam falls off vertical surfaces, then turn the bath in different directions and trim only horizontal ones. It will take longer, but the result is worth it.

Step 6. Cut off excess foam near the edge of the tub, it should not interfere with the frame for the screen. The distance depends on the type and method of installation of the screen.

On this preparatory work installation completed. The bathtub has a siphon, legs and insulation.

Installing the bath on bricks

Such an installation completely excludes the rocking and tipping of the bath, we strongly recommend using it.

Step 1. Place the bathtub on legs in the desired place, mark their location, draw horizontal lines. Bricks or blocks will be laid along these lines. The bathtub is pre-adjustable in height and inclination with the bolts of the legs.

Step 2. Measure the distance from the bottom to the floor, prepare the required number of bricks. If necessary, use a bricklayer's hammer to chop off excess parts at the required height.

Step 3. Prepare a cement-sand mortar. For one part cement, give about three parts sand, water as needed.

Step 4. Place two rows of bricks where the tub is held. Put about two more centimeters of the solution on top. The mortar should hold its shape and not spread over the surface of the bricks. If necessary, add a little sand and cement to it, mix thoroughly.

Step 5. Carefully lower the bath vertically into place until it stops with the solution. Now, with a little effort, swing and press it until the feet stop on the floor, repeat such actions on both sides. Take your time, let the bath gradually take its place and squeeze out the excess solution. As soon as the feet (if any) touch the floor, the installation is complete. Allow the solution to harden (about a day) and continue installing the bath.

Bath screens

With the help of screens communications are hidden, it is possible to make shelves for storing various household accessories. In addition, they significantly improve the interior of the room. The screen can be brick with further facing with ceramic tiles, made of MDF, plastic panels, gypsum plasterboards, OSB or in the form of an ordinary curtain made of dense fabric. In turn, we will tell you how to do each option.

Structures must necessarily provide easy access to the siphon for periodic routine cleaning of the system. The presence of a leg opening is advisable only when the bathroom is used for washing. As an option - country house for temporary residence. Put in it dear washing machine unprofitable and dangerous, summer residents, out of old habit, use the bathtub for washing clothes.

What are the frames for installing screens

Any type of screen, except for brick, is mounted on a frame. They are made of metal profiles (the best option), wooden slats or square pipes. The latter option is very expensive and time consuming and has no operational advantages. Why do you need a frame that can withstand a load of hundreds of kilograms, if it actually does not exceed a few? We believe that there is no point in considering it. The manufacture of the structure must be approached very carefully, in any case, the curved structure will have to be redone.

How to make a frame from metal profiles?

Step 1. Count the number of profiles.

They need three vertical baths in height, two horizontal in length and two horizontal baths in width. To strengthen the structure, use jumpers; for the door you need to make a separate small frame. Three jumpers are enough in length, in width you can do without them. Knowing the size of your bathtub, it is easy to find out the total amount of material. Buy self-tapping screws for fastening profiles immediately.

Step 2. Make the markup.

Highly important stage, do not rush, check the measurements several times. To improve accuracy, use a plumb line, the level of the vertical planes does not indicate accurately.

How to markup?

1. Apply the plumb line to the wall and corner of the tub, wait until it calms down. Mark the top and bottom of the thread and draw a line between the marks. Using the same algorithm, draw a vertical line and all free corners of the bath, there can be two or three of them, depending on the size of the bath and the room. Thus, the place of joining of the screen with the walls is indicated.
2. At a distance of about 3-4 centimeters, draw parallel lines next to them around the perimeter of the bath. The specific distance depends on the material of the frame and the finishing finishing materials: drywall, OSB, MDF or glue and ceramic tiles.
3. Draw the same parallel lines on the bathroom floor. Check all sizes again, make no mistake.

Further work depends on the material for the manufacture of the frame. The best option- metal profile, but you can work with wooden slats.

Metal profile frame

Step 1. Cut the metal profile to size, as we have already described above how to determine them. Do not deal with jumpers yet, make blanks only along the perimeter of the frame.

Step 2. Lay the long profile on the floor, one side exactly in line with the marked line. Carefully mark with a marker where the holes are to be drilled for the dowels. Pencil does not work well, use a marker.

Step 3. Remove the profile, drill the holes with a drill, put the profile in place and fix it. Do not immediately tighten the dowels, the strips have perforated holes, with the help of which the element can be slightly moved in different directions and to achieve an exact position.

Step 4... Now fix the planks to the walls. The algorithm of actions is the same. If it is planned to use a heavy OSB plate for cladding, then the vertical and horizontal profiles at the corners are connected to each other with hardware.

Step 5. Fasten the profiles along the length and width, close to the upper side of the bathroom, you should get a strong frame. If necessary, make additional jumpers to strengthen the structure. They can be vertical or horizontal.

Step 6. Decide on the size of the door for revising the siphon, make a small frame in the right place for it. Check the position of all elements of the frame constantly with a level. The dimensions of the door are at least 30 cm around the perimeter, otherwise it is inconvenient to clean the siphon.

The frame is ready, check its stability, apply multidirectional efforts from all sides. The structure is staggering - add jumpers in problem areas, achieve high stability.

Frame made of wooden blocks

In terms of its performance, it is in no way inferior to the metal profile. Do not be afraid that rot will appear on the tree. There are concerns - soak it with antiseptics.

For the frame, slats of various sizes can be used. When choosing, take into account the load of the finishing plating. A universal option can be considered the size of the rails of five by five centimeters. Do the markings on the floor and wall as always. One feature - take into account the width of the slats, they should go under the side shelves of the bath and not interfere finishing... To fix the frame, use metal corners and dowels, the width of the corners is slightly less than the width of the rails. This will make it possible to adjust the position of the frame without fear. In addition, it is easy to fix possible mistakes while drilling holes for dowels.

Step 1... Place a long block on the floor, estimate the position of the corners. Make marks for drilling the dowel holes.

Practical advice. In order to completely eliminate the likelihood of the corner going beyond the line, it is better to slightly shift it inward. It is not scary that it will be screwed to the bar off-center, but nothing will interfere with the finishing.

Step 2. Drill holes, fix the corners with dowels and a bar to them with self-tapping screws. Adjust its position. Install the meek bar in the same way.

Step 3. Measure the height of the vertical elements. Make a gap of about 1 cm to the bottom of the tub rims. Use the corners to fasten the segments into a single structure with the lower one.

Step 4. Prepare two more long and two meek ones for fixing at the top of the frame. Why two and not one? We recommend installing the first one at a distance of about 10 cm from the side, these bars are needed to control the dimensions and verticality of the frame. On an already stable structure, it is recommended to fix one more end-to-end to the side. It is much easier to do this, the frame is more accurate. In addition, the strength of the structure is increased.

Step 5. In the right places, make a frame for the door, if heavy materials will be used, then put several jumpers. To increase strength, you can fix several spacers in the corners.

The frame is ready, you can start finishing plating, fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws for wood.

Brick screens

In terms of time, they do not take very much time, and in terms of strength, reliability and durability they far exceed the previously described options. Prepare materials and tools. You can use bricks or concrete blocks. The number is calculated in this way.

1. Calculate the side and end area of ​​the bathtub space that you are going to cover.
2. Divide the resulting amount by the area of ​​one brick or block. Round the number to a whole number. For a reserve, you can take one block or two bricks.

One bath will require two buckets of sand and a third of a bucket of cement. In the future, the surface needs to be finished with ceramic tiles, we will give a step-by-step design in the next section.

Step 1. Lay the first row of bricks on the edge, constantly check its position with a level. You need to know that the laying on the edge has its own characteristics, if they are not observed, the wall can "float". First feature. The mortar should be slightly thicker than when laying flat. To increase the adhesion of the mortar to the side face of the brick, it should be moistened with a spray bottle. Do not overdo it. The optimum degree of wetting will be determined in a practical way. Second feature. After three rows, you need to give time to the solution to harden a little. Take a break for two or three hours.

The brick is laid in a checkerboard pattern, the joints of the lower row are overlapped with whole bricks of the upper one.

Step 2. Continue to work until the entire space is closed. It will be hard to push the solution into the gap between the masonry and the sides. It is desirable to make such an emphasis, it significantly increases the strength of the bath installation. Use for this purpose any narrow improvised means, such work cannot be done with a trowel.

Important. Do not forget to leave a hole for the siphon revision. Check the structure, remove the remnants of the solution that has emerged. Allow at least a day to harden.

Finishing with ceramic tiles

If the wall already has tiles, then the work is somewhat more complicated. The fact is, you need to take measures to match the seam between the tiles on the wall and the screen. There are situations when it is impossible to lay a whole tile, you have to cut it into pieces. No practical experience in cutting tiles - use plastic inserts. They can line up the jambs up to a centimeter, but the appearance will, of course, suffer a little. Real professionals do not use inserts for joints, their cuts fit snugly to surfaces without cracks.

Step 1. Count the number of tiles, the method is the same as for bricks. And you can buy one or two tiles in stock, you will no longer need it, a very small area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe surface to be trimmed. You need to buy about 10 kg of glue.

Step 2. Start with the bottom row. Check the position with a level or flat rail, control several tiles at the same time. They must lie strictly in the same plane.

Step 3. The tile is placed on uneven surface, it is impossible to use the comb. Apply the adhesive with a trowel around the edges and in the center of the tile, approximately one centimeter thick. Next, the tile must be pressed and moved left to right until the position is aligned. The final fit is done with level. Don't forget to use crosses. Some beginners place crosses flat on the four corners of the seam. This is not worth doing for several reasons. Firstly, it is much more difficult to level the tiles, the cross will constantly move the nearby one. Secondly, there will be problems with removing the cross, you will have to pick out each one with a knife.

Step 4. No experience - use plastic elements in the corners and joints, they make the work much easier.

Step 5... You can start in about two hours. The color of the material should be in harmony with the tiles and the overall design of the room. Excess grout is removed with a damp cloth or sponge. Do not wait until it is completely dry, dry material is difficult to clean.

Finishing with OSB boards or drywall

Tiling is much easier than laying ceramic tiles. How is it done?

Step 1. Remove the dimensions of the frame, mark the slab. As a rule, the length of the bath exceeds the length of the slab, you will have to dock. Such a probability must be foreseen even during the manufacture of the frame and a vertical stand should be installed at the docking point.

Cut off all the blanks. Drywall is easily cut with a mounting knife; for OSB you will need an electric hand saw or jigsaw.

Step 2... Fix the elements in turn with self-tapping screws, carefully work with drywall. With great efforts of tightening the screws, their heads fall into the inside of the plaster, you have to tighten new ones.

Step 3. Screw small hinges in the place where the door is installed. Check the functionality of the door.

Step 4. Start finishing the surfaces. You can use ceramic tiles - long and expensive. There is an easier option - cover the surfaces with self-adhesive decorative film, today there is a huge selection on sale - cheap and beautiful. In addition, you can easily change the pattern or repair the coating in case of mechanical damage. But the film also has a drawback - the surface must be perfectly flat.

Practical advice. Do not try to immediately glue the film without air pockets, it is almost impossible to do. Removing air is simple - pierce the pocket in several places with a needle and remove air by smoothing the pocket.

Plastic lining

The option is not the most successful. It is recommended to use if the walls of the bathroom are finished with clapboard. The laying process is standard. The problem arises with the technological hole and door. Practitioners recommend making them from OSB from drywall, not to waste time on lining.

How to make sliding doors

Very simple and functional option screen. For manufacturing, you will need two guides and an MDF plate. The disadvantage of this material is that there is a possibility of spontaneous deformation. You can get rid of it only by making a separate small frame for the doors. It is advisable to use thin wooden slats, MDF is glued to them with a special glue.

Step 1. Make a frame from a metal profile, we have described the algorithm for manufacturing such structures. Check the position of all elements.

Important. For a sliding screen, it is especially important to maintain the parameters, the racks must be strictly vertical.

Step 2. Attach the guides to the frame. They can be aluminum or plastic.

Step 3. Measure the exact distance between the guides, the spread in parallelism cannot exceed 1–2 mm. Otherwise, the doors will wedge during opening / closing.

Step 4. Cut out the doors of the required size from the MDF board. For overlap, 2-3 cm is enough. You can cut the slab with an electric jigsaw or a hacksaw for metal. Work carefully, place an emphasis on the bottom - the hairiness of the cut will decrease.

Step 5. Chamfer the cut. Use a sandpaper or circular sander. Install the handles.

There is one more way. It is the most reliable, but also the most time consuming. It is advisable to use it before facing the walls, if they are already finished, then the work becomes somewhat more complicated.

Step 1. Remove the row of ceramic tiles at the level of the bath rim. If it breaks, there is nothing to worry about. Put a new one in its place and make the tub border a pattern, this will only improve the appearance.

Step 2. On the wall, draw a line for the position of the upper plane of the bath rim, draw another line at a distance of about 2 cm. It indicates the position of the protruding side of the collar.

Step 3... Make a groove in the wall along lines approximately 1 cm deep.

Step 4. Cover the ends of the rim with sealant, put the bath in place. The sides should go slightly into the groove, remove excess sealant.

Tiles were laid, decorative ceramic skirting was used to match the tiles

This method completely guarantees the tightness of the junction, water will never get behind the bath.

Use any method that is not difficult for you. If the technology is not violated, then the tightness of the junction of the bathtub with the wall will be sufficient.

Video - Installing a steel bath

Renovation in the bathroom is a costly undertaking not only in terms of building and finishing materials, but also the cost of the services of craftsmen. In this article, we will tell you in detail how the bath is installed, is it possible to do it yourself, without the involvement of third-party specialists. Thanks to this article, you will be able to save a significant amount of your renovation budget.

The installation of the bath takes place in several stages, some of them are general, while others are included depending on the material of manufacture of the equipment itself.

1. Room preparation;
2. Bath preparation;
3. Assembly of the siphon group;
4. Bath installation;
5. Connection of drain fittings;
6. Decorative design.

If the bathtub is metal, then the second item is omitted. The installation procedure itself is not complicated, but care is required when performing work with small details... The main difficulty lies in connecting the siphon group.

There are two options for doing this.

1. Make the connections before installing the bath in its place. It is much easier because the access to the drain holes is not limited. And the process itself can be controlled visually. But during installation, you will need to be extremely careful not to damage the installed fittings. Considering that the bath is a large and heavy object, it is problematic to do this.
2. Place the bathtub in its place, align it. Only then connect the siphon group. The complexity of the process is seen in the fact that the work must be carried out by touch. Impossible to see from both sides of the bathtub at once. But in return, the installer has the ability to handle the bathroom more freely.

The second option seems to be more preferable. In the end, anyone can brush their teeth with their eyes closed, and they don't get past their mouths with a toothbrush. Therefore, we will focus on the second method.

For the work of installing the bath, installers charge 1500-2500 rubles... And work there, with a prepared foundation, for no more than half an hour. Therefore, we recommend that you install the bath yourself.

Bathroom preparation

The work should be divided into two categories. It is one thing if the bathtub is installed in a newly renovated room, and quite another thing if the old equipment is replaced with new one.

In the first case, you do not need to prepare anything. Complete renovation involves preparation of the base. notice, that floor tiles, if such covered the entire area of ​​the room, should be laid on glue applied in a continuous layer, and not on several points. Otherwise, a bathtub filled with water, and even with a person inside, can break through the tiles.

But this flaw can be leveled if two boards are placed under the legs, placing them along the length of the bath. Wood material - larch. From contact with water, the resins in the composition of larch polymerize, and after a while it will be impossible to even saw the boards with a hacksaw.

In the second case, it is necessary to conduct an audit floor covering... Pay special attention to those places where the legs of the new bathtub will be located. It is quite possible that the new supports will lie in a different place.

In addition, you should measure the level at which the bath will adjoin to the wall. With a high probability, it can be assumed that the walls are not tiled up to the floor. And after old bath, in the place of its abutment to the wall, a clearly noticeable line remained. It will hardly be possible to wipe it off. Microscopic particles penetrated into the pores of the glazed coating, forming an inseparable conglomerate. If this flaw cannot be eliminated, then it should be hidden. For this purpose, boards ( as described above).

Warmed drying oil is applied to the boards in a thick layer. Then they can be painted in such a color that they do not differ from the dominant background.

We would like to remind you about optimal height baths. In the USSR, experts have calculated that it is most convenient for the average person to raise his leg in order to step into the bath, to a height of no more than 60 cm. This parameter was included in the SNiP as a recommendation. But now there are many more bathtub models on the market, with different overall dimensions... Therefore, be guided by this case, you should follow your own preferences.

At the same time, you need to know about one interesting feature... If the drain of the bathtub is placed at least 3-5 cm higher than usual, then the water flow will pass faster. This will no longer allow blockages and deposits to form in the drainage fittings. Even on the grate of the drain hole, hair will not remain.

If the tiles were not laid under the bathroom, then it is recommended to slightly raise the floor level in this place. Even 1 cm of added height will be enough to keep water out of the bath.

This will require:

• Quick-drying self-leveling screed (20 kg):
• Deep penetration primer;
• Guide metal profile;

The surface of the floor is treated with a primer, and during its drying, a side is arranged with the help of a metal profile. For this, the profile is cut in such a way that it fits exactly along the length between opposite walls... Scotch tape is glued to the back, this will not allow you to grab it with a coupler. Having laid the profile through the side wall, screw it to the floor with self-tapping screws in 3-4 places. Then the screed is diluted according to the instructions on the package, and poured into a fenced place. The thickness of the layer is selected individually. Considering that for 1m 2 of screeds with a thickness of 1 cm, ≈ 15 kg are consumed ready-made solution... And from 20 kg of dry mixture it will turn out to be ≈ 30 kg of mortar, then the screed layer on the bathroom will be 1.2-1.5 cm.

The next day, the dried screed is once again coated with a primer.

Bath preparation

Only an acrylic bathtub requires special preparation. It is necessary to provide support for it. There are three options:

1. Legs. The standard solution for shortsighted users. A highly advertised option, but has several vulnerabilities. In particular, it is necessary to make blind holes in a monolithic body in several places. This increases the tension of the material. Self-tapping screws will be screwed into these holes, which, after filling the bath with hot water, also heat up. And their coefficient of thermal expansion does not coincide with the same parameter for acrylic.
   And the load is expected to be significant. 130 liters of water + 70 kg human weight. This is 200 kg for two flimsy supports. A very dubious choice.
2. Frame. A great alternative. A strong, reliable frame made of a profiled tube, supported by 6-8 legs. The integrity of the bath body is not compromised. She is, as it were, in limbo. Please note that there are frames for all models of acrylic bathtubs.
3. Stand made of bricks or blocks. Cheap and capital option. But it is somewhat inferior to the frame, because there is no lateral support.
4. If the bathtub is old, plan the installation at the last stage. Only after the base is completely assembled can you start these works.

Objectively, there is no alternative to the wireframe. Depending on the shape of the bath, its price ranges from 1,800 to 2,600 rubles. It is delivered disassembled. The connection of all components is carried out at the installation site of the bath, according to the attached instructions. IMPORTANT: the legs of the frame are height adjustable. After assembly, screw them in an equal number of turns, to the middle of the thread. This will make it possible to subsequently align more freely to the horizon.

Metal baths, both steel and cast iron, do not require special preparation. But they have one flaw that is easy to fix. We mean the high thermal conductivity of the metal. Such baths heat up quickly, and just as quickly give off heat to the surrounding air. This disadvantage can be leveled with 3-4 cylinders of polyurethane foam. The entire outer surface of the metal bath is treated with it. After foam polymerization, the water cooling rate decreases by an order of magnitude. As a bonus, this treatment almost completely absorbs the noise of the water collecting. If for cast iron bath this is not essential, then for steel it is relevant.

In addition, the legs are twisted into steel bathtubs seats... TIP: Between the body of the bathtub and the end of the threaded leg, we recommend laying a rubber gasket. This will further reduce the noise when drawing water.

Assembling the siphon group

Bathroom fittings are sold separately. They are divided into two groups:

1. Prefabricated;
2. Whole.

In the first case, the siphon group is assembled on threaded connections from small plastic parts. All curves are rectangular.

In the second case, the siphon is represented by a curved pipe. All bends are smooth, there are no threaded connections.

The one-piece siphon looks trivial, but it has huge advantages.

1. The more threaded connections and parts, the higher the likelihood of leaks;
2. Smooth bends do not impede the flow of water, draining is faster and the likelihood of deposits and blockages is extremely low;

And besides this, the siphon is not a subject for demonstration, and no one will see it except you. Therefore, an objective choice is a siphon with a one-piece body.

Its assembly consists in screwing the overflow system through the cuff.

Bath installation

The bath must be installed together. Regardless of the material, this is a large-sized piece of furniture and one simply cannot cope with it.

For work you will need:

• Rule with level;
• Mallet;
• Adjustable wrench for adjusting the legs.

The cast iron bath is installed in the designated place. With a properly prepared base, it does not need adjustment.

The acrylic bathtub is installed inside the assembled frame, and is slightly pressed down until it clicks. This click means that the bathtub is seated and seated on the frame. Since the frame is prefabricated, it is required to adjust the plumbing to the horizon. For this, it is better to use the diagonal method.

As a rule, the bath is laid diagonally, and, if required, by unscrewing the leg, the lowered side is raised. Then the rule is placed on the other diagonal, and again aligned, raising the lower edge. IMPORTANT: alignment is carried out only by lifting the low side. It is impossible to lower the high.
Steel bath, set similarly to cast iron. And the leveling of the horizon is carried out as in the acrylic analogue.

Connection of drain fittings

The assembled siphon group must be fixed at three points:

1. Drainer;
2. Overflow;
3. Sewage pipe.

First, fit the fittings in the drain hole. Fixation is carried out with a screw through the drain grate. The gasket is put on the drain itself, it has a specific shape, and provides sealing on both sides at once. TIP: Apply a little silicone sealant between the gasket and the bath body... Do not tighten the screw all the way.

Then, by adjusting the height of the corrugated pipe, the overflow is fixed. Here the gasket is installed on the outside of the bath. It has a conical shape, and the "point" is directed "from the bath". The screw is tightened to the end.

After that, press the screw on the drain hole.

TIP: stop turning the screw as soon as the plane of the drain grate begins to bend.

The last one is inserted into the sewer, the sewer pipe. To facilitate this process, lubricate both the pipe and the entrance to the sewer with laundry soap.

Installing the screen

Almost always, steel and acrylic bathtubs are equipped with screens. For cast iron, it must be purchased separately. But in any case, the finished screen is a more acceptable option than homemade construction made of plastic.

To install it, you need an adjustable wrench and a screwdriver.

Screen panels are assembled into a single structure. The legs are screwed into the seats and tightened to the maximum.

The screen is installed under the front edge of the bath, strictly vertically, focusing on the plumb line. Then the legs are unscrewed, and the top of the screen is pressed against the edge of the bath. On some models of acrylic bathtubs, there is a special groove where the upper edge of the screen fits.

Full fixation is accompanied by a characteristic click.