How to lengthen the legs of a metal loft bed. How to make a bed with your own hands: we make a bed at home by studying the drawings and instructions

In the modern market of goods and services, you can find absolutely everything, but many people prefer to make an interior item on their own, without resorting to the help of specialists. A do-it-yourself double bed made, the drawings and diagrams of which are attached, can become a real decoration of the bedroom interior. To make such a bed, you need to familiarize yourself with the general recommendations of specialists, make a drawing and a plan for successive actions. The drawing is needed to calculate the necessary materials, funds for their purchase and draw up a sequence of installation work.

Preparatory work

A do-it-yourself double bed has a number of advantages - it is the ability to choose the required size, design, shape of the legs, as well as the quality of the finished product in the end result, thanks to which the bedroom turns into a masterpiece.

The main details in its manufacture are:

• design, which can be classic or with a lifting system;
• a drawing that helps in the preparation and manufacture of parts;
• action plan.

Diagram of a double bed with a mattress

Drawings and diagrams

Not a single work on the manufacture of interior items is complete without drawings and diagrams. The manufacture of a double structure was no exception. Below you can see several options for drawings and diagrams often used in the manufacture of double models.

Having decided on the type and size of the double bed, you need to make a detailed drawing. The scheme allows you to buy the required amount of building materials of a certain size or order their production in a furniture workshop. The drawing is also used throughout the entire construction process, for the manufacture of individual elements with their own hands and their fasteners.

Double bed with several drawers
Assembly diagram
Bed with two drawers on the sides

Main details

Beds with nightstands

Side view
Frame assembly

Materials and tools for work

The double bed can be ordinary or with a lifting mechanism. Their manufacturing technique is slightly different from each other, since the product with a lifting mechanism has an additional box for storing things and a lifting bed frame.In order to determine the size of the product, you need to take into account the dimensions of the factory mattress that you plan to purchase.To make a standard double bed with your own hands, you will need such materials.

When choosing a material, many are faced with wood of different qualities. Experts recommend choosing high-quality wood only for the supporting structure. For the legs and bottom rails, second-rate material can be purchased. If there is not enough money for high-quality material, you can purchase chipboard or plywood.

If you plan to make a product with a lifting mechanism, then a little more materials will be required. Since, in addition to the main frame, it is also necessary to make a lifting frame of the bed. For its manufacture, you can use metal building material. The drawing should include not only the building material, but also the type of lifting mechanism, because its installation plays a big role.

Choosing a board

Tools that will be required:

• roulette;
• pencil or marker;
• brushes;
• sandpaper;
• wood putty;
• varnish, stain;
• glue for wood;
• self-tapping screws (30, 50, 60 mm);
• measuring square;
• drill;
• jigsaw;
• clamps;
• grinding machine;
• construction stapler;
• hacksaw.

When cutting parts according to the dimensions of the drawing, it is necessary to mark them as accurately as possible.

Main frame

The process of making a double bed with your own hands begins with the main frame. The product with a lifting mechanism is also made from its base, which consists not only of four boards, but also of the bottom, as in the photo.

Frame assembly

Frame manufacturing steps:

• in the prepared parts, it is necessary to make holes for fasteners with a drill. The diameter must correspond to 30 mm self-tapping screws that are used to fasten the boards;

We prepare holes for fastening

• clean the ends of the boards with sandpaper or a grinder;

We clean the ends of the boards with a grinder

• open them with wood glue;
• insert self-tapping screws into the drilled holes, fasten the boards with a screwdriver or screwdriver;

We fasten the boards with self-tapping screws

• after finishing bonding, you need to remove all excess glue with a damp cloth;

Remove excess glue with a damp cloth

• at the end, it is necessary to check all the corners of the structure, make sure that they are straight, using a building square;
• after drying the frame, you need to paint it. The color of the stain is chosen solely from the personal preferences of the owner;

Finished frame after painting

• if the frame is made in the form of a box, it is necessary to make a bottom, which can be solid (made of plywood), or slatted.

Fastening supports for the slatted bottom

Supports for laying rails are attached according to the same principle as the frame.

Technology for fastening supports for the rack bottom:

• in the supporting boards, it is necessary to drill holes for the thickness of the self-tapping screws, in increments of 25 cm;
• for fastening the boards, it is better to put the frame on its side and drawing a line at a distance of 5 cm from its bottom, you can proceed to the installation steps;

To fix the boards, put the frame on its side

• before fixing the support boards, they must be lubricated with wood glue;
• fastening is carried out along the frame along its edges, using 50 mm self-tapping screws;
• for stability during the drying of the glue, the support bar must be pressed, for this you can use clamps. An example can be seen in the photo;

The frame with the bar was fixed until completely dry.

• the middle support board is fixed parallel to the two previous ones, at the same height, by drilling holes in its ends;
• the remaining holes from the fasteners must be sealed with putty and cleaned after it dries with sandpaper.

legs

Making legs with your own hands is the easiest step in the entire construction process.

Whole manufacturing process:

• a prepared timber with a section of 10x10 cm must be cut into 6 bars 10.5 cm long;

Preparation for future legs

• fastening is made to the supporting bars;
• for the strength of the frame, two additional legs are attached under the central support, at a distance of 50 cm from the edges of the frame;
• to decorate them, you can give them any shape. You can saw off one of the corners at a distance of about 3 cm from the bottom, at an angle of 45 degrees, as in the photo;
• at the end of the work, it is necessary to sand all sides.

Fastening of all created elements:

• as mentioned above, the legs are attached to the frame support boards. To do this, use 60 mm self-tapping screws. For each leg you need to spend at least two;

This is what the legs look like from the inside.

• holes are pre-drilled with a drill, with a drill, the diameter of which coincides with the cross section of the self-tapping screws.

Legs attached to the frame

Before screwing in the screws, you must first drill holes, which will reduce the risk of splitting the boards..

decorative elements

Decorative elements play an important role in the decoration of the product, thanks to them the bedroom will sparkle with new colors. One of the options for finishing elements are wooden slats, 5 by 2.5 cm thick, which should also be included in the drawing.

Manufacturing process:

• it is necessary to make the required size of the rails from the prepared materials;
• prepared slats must be sanded, painted with a stain, the color of which is chosen from personal preferences and the design of the room;
• after drying, they are coated with water-based varnish;
• after opening the first layer of varnish, you need to polish the rails from the appearance of all kinds of bubbles. Next, apply two more coats of varnish;
• the painting procedure must also be carried out with the legs.

Fastening:

• decorative trim is attached with glue;
• it is necessary to apply glue to the surface of the frame and finishing rails;
• using clamps, press them for a while, preferably until the glue dries completely;
• all excess glue must be wiped with a damp cloth;
• fastening of rails can be done both with nails and self-tapping screws.

Mounting the lifting mechanism requires additional skills, since its installation must be of high quality and safe. There are three types of mechanism, the installation of each of which occurs in different ways. Therefore, choosing a certain type, you need to carefully study the scheme of its installation or resort to the help of specialists.

Reiki

To make classic beds with your own hands, the slats are laid on the frame support boards. And in products with a lifting mechanism, they are placed on a lifting frame. Or it is possible to lay them on two frames at the same time, since on the frame they are used for the bottom, and on the lifting frame, for laying the mattress.

Reiki are made very simply:

• according to the given dimensions, it is necessary to measure the length of the rails and saw off from the purchased boards;

Marking boards for the manufacture of rails

• for convenience and practicality, so that there are no discrepancies in the length of the rails, the first bar can be used as a sample, and subsequent boards can be marked on its basis;
• after finishing the process of manufacturing rails, you need to grind each.

How to make a headboard and what you need for this

A headboard in a double bed is necessary for three main reasons:

• it is a decorative element;
• protects the wall covering from rubbing;
• for comfort.

The headboard can be of different sizes, shapes and finishes, it all depends on personal preferences, the interior of the room and financial possibilities. Here is a photo of a few examples.

Before making it, you also need to make a drawing with your own hands, which will indicate the dimensions and necessary materials. Plywood sheet, upholstery fabric and foam rubber are mainly used to create softness and airiness of the headboard.

Complete manufacturing technology:

• The first thing to do is measure the width and height of the headboard. Transfer all dimensions to a sheet of plywood and cut out the details;

Cut the foam according to the dimensions of the workpiece

• if the rectangular shape of the headboard does not suit you, it can be made rounded or ornate. To do this, prepare a pattern and a jigsaw in advance;
• irregularities and notches resulting from the sawing process must be processed with sandpaper;
• to make an upholstered headboard, you will need foam rubber, a stapler and upholstery fabric. Attach the foam rubber to the headboard blank with a stapler and upholster with the prepared fabric;

Foam rubber must be attached with a stapler and covered with upholstery fabric

• if you plan to make an ordinary headboard, then the plywood blank must be opened with varnish or paint;
• the finished headboard can be attached directly to the bed or to the wall.

The bedroom should create an atmosphere of warmth and comfort, which is achieved through design and furniture attributes. A good bed is needed not only to decorate the room, but also to ensure the sound, comfortable sleep that can be achieved with the right bed. You can not only buy it, but also make it yourself. Having fulfilled all the requirements, the product will last a long time, performing all the intended functions.

Now it is fashionable to make furniture at home on your own, and every year the number of home craftsmen is increasing. Someone prefers to purchase blanks and assemble the necessary furniture from them, while someone does all the work on their own from start to finish. A homemade bed can be very simple or with intricate shapes and patterns. It's not just a matter of skill and availability of equipment - personal preferences and financial capabilities play an important role. In this article we will tell you how to make a bed with your own hands from various materials.

In order for the product to please and to be used for a long time, you need to approach the matter very responsibly, realizing the limits of your capabilities. It is necessary to choose a suitable model and, taking into account the material used, prepare a tool.

Required Tools

Depending on which material is selected, certain tools will be required to work with it.

For working with metal

• Electric welding machine.
• Bulgarian.
• File.
• Metal brush.
• Electric drill.
• Roulette.

To work with wood

• Electric jigsaw. If the product is made of boards, you can get by with a hacksaw for wood.
• Screwdriver.
• Electric drill.
• Roulette.
• Building corner.
• Pencil.
• Plane.
• Chisel.
• Sanding machine.

As for consumables, we will talk about this separately, considering this or that model.

Material selection

Bed materials:

1. Metal corner.
2. Profile or round pipe.
3. An array of wood.
4. Plywood.

The above materials can be used either individually or in combination. So, a metal bed can be equipped with wooden backs, and a plywood product is assembled on a frame made of timber. There can be many options, and you can figure it out in more detail by reading the article.

Location

The first step is to clearly determine what the dimensions of the future bed will be, taking into account its location. It is possible that you are modernizing the bedroom, changing its design, then you can move away from the usual bed placement patterns and find a new place for it. If so, here are a few tips to help you.

• Do not install the bed with the headboard to the window opening, as if the window is open, there will be a draft, and the head can be blown out.
• If you place the bed with the headboard towards the doorway, then it will not be possible to see who enters the bedroom.
• It is better not to hang a chandelier over the bed. It can break loose and fall on a person lying in bed.
• In uninsulated houses, the outer walls are very cold, so it is better not to put the bed in such places.
• A shelf not securely nailed to the wall above your head can also cause a lot of trouble.
• In a narrow bedroom, a bed located in the center of the room will not allow you to move freely. In addition, this arrangement can cause discomfort.
• Many people leave a place for a laptop at the head of the bed. Note that this "time thief" will deprive you of many hours of good rest in this case.

It may seem that there is no room for a bed in the bedroom at all, but this is not so. We only gave recommendations, and you decide for yourself how relevant they are in your case.

Wooden bed

Don't let the apparent simplicity of the design fool you. You need to tune in to the fact that you have to work hard to make a bed out of solid wood. If you are determined, then there is every chance to do something original, while saving money. It is quite natural that it is not easy to decide on the design of the bed right away, so first look at some photos of wood products.

Photo of wooden beds

Having chosen the product you like, you can find a similar drawing on the Internet or draw it yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the room and personal preferences. Often, home craftsmen take a drawing of a bed and remake it for themselves, removing or adding something.

From array

If you are not going to sleep on boards, then when planning the size of the bed, you need to take into account the dimensions of the mattress. If it has not yet been purchased, then you need to take care of this in advance or find out the standard sizes on the selling sites and start from this data. If you plan to make a bed of non-standard sizes, it is important to know that the mattress will have to be made to order.

A custom-made mattress will cost a little more.

It is clear that in a relatively small article it will not be possible to describe the manufacture of several wooden beds, and we are not striving for this. Based on the example given, it will be possible to understand how to assemble a bed from an array.

Let's look at an example of making a wooden bed for a 200 × 160 cm mattress, if there is a minimum of tools - only the most necessary ones.

The actual dimensions of the mattress often differ from those declared by the manufacturer, and to a smaller extent. Having purchased a mattress, measure it, and then adjust the dimensions of the manufactured bed to fit it.

If there is no drawing with a bed suitable for the size of the mattress, then you can take any one you like as a basis, redoing it to fit your size. If the design is very simple, then you can draw a sketch yourself.

Let's say that after checking the dimensions of the mattress, it turned out that its length and width are one centimeter less than the declared ones - 199 × 159 cm. You will need the following material:

• Bar 50 × 40 mm, length 209 cm - 19 pcs.
• Planed board 22 × 100 mm, length 159.5 cm - 18 pcs.
• PVA glue (furniture).
• Self-tapping screws 41 and 65 mm.

Having a clear idea of ​​the quantity and size of the required material, you can go to the store for it.

Making a frame

You can assemble the frame on the floor or on four stools.

So, we need to make a rectangle with internal dimensions of 200x160 cm, which corresponds to the dimensions of the mattress + 1 cm of tolerance. Each side of the frame will consist of three bars assembled into a single structure.

• Of 19 pcs. purchased timber 40 × 50 mm, you need to choose 4 pcs. the most even and with a minimum number of knots.
• For further work, you need to saw off the excess at a right angle. With sufficient skills, you can mark the beam, and then, using a building corner, draw a cut line. If you cannot cut evenly with a hacksaw along the line, then it is better to use a miter box.
• You should get 2 bars of 160 cm each and 2 bars of 208 cm each (internal size of the length of the bed 200 cm + 2 bars of 4 cm each).
• The cleanest side of the bars will be used as the front (top of the bed), so we will lay the bars down with this side.
• You will need 4 more bars with the same dimensions. You also need to cut 2 bars of 200 cm each, and 2 bars of 168 cm each (internal size of the width of the bed 160 cm + 2 bars of 4 cm each).
• For the frame to be strong, the corner joints must be overlapped, so for the second row, the bars of a different size are used, which we cut out last.
• Glue is applied to the bars of the first layer, and then the bars of the second row are laid and attracted with self-tapping screws. Excess glue must be removed immediately, otherwise it will interfere with the work on grinding the surface.
• Now the bars of the third row are attached in the same way.

• It is necessary to check that the corners of the bed are assembled at an angle of 90˚. To do this, we measure the dimensions of the assembled frame diagonally - they should be the same.
• After the glue dries, you can continue to work.
• Since our mattress is 159 cm wide, this size is quite large - the boards we use can sag. To exclude this, in the center of the bed, from one back to the other, from below, you need to make a stiffener. For its manufacture, you will need 2 bars 2 m long each. They are also fastened together and installed in the same plane with the bottom of the bed. This is clearly visible in the photo.

The bed being made has 4 legs located at the corners, but for safety, you can set the fifth point of support in the center - then the base will definitely not bend.

• The legs will be made from two bars 40 × 50 mm, fastened to each other. Their height is selected according to the preference of the owner in such a way that they will be attached to the bottom two bars.
• Having glued and fixed the legs with screws, we wait until the glue dries, and only after that we turn the bed over to the position in which it will now be constantly located.

• To make the base for the mattress along the sidewalls of the bed frame, you need to fix the remaining beam 50 × 40 mm (or existing trimmings), since the boards will be attached to it. The lower edge of the upper beam of the frame will serve as a guide.
• The width of the inner part of our product is 160 cm, therefore, in order to avoid squeaking, the boards can be made 5 millimeters shorter - 159.5 cm (or a little less).

• After sanding the boards, you need to lay them on the frame so that they do not touch the sides of the walls of the frame, and fix them.
• Since the self-tapping screws will be screwed in from the edge of the board, holes will need to be drilled under them in each board, using a thin drill for this.
• As for the distance between the boards, we find it empirically. In our case, the length of the inner part of the bed is 200 cm. We retreat 5 mm from the edges. It remains 199 cm. Divide by 16 (the number of boards). 199/16 \u003d 12.44 cm. Round it up, and it turns out that you need to mark the support beam every 12.4 cm. Since the width of the board is 10 cm, the gap between them will be 2.4 cm, which completely suits us.

• If you need to get a greater distance between the boards, then you need to reduce their number and again perform the calculations according to the scheme we have given.
• Now we need to sand the whole structure. To do this, it is better to take the bed outside the room, as there will be a lot of dust.
• It is convenient to use a grinder or a drill with a nozzle on which an emery cloth is attached. After mechanized processing, you need to complete the process manually using fine-grained emery cloth.

• The bed must be primed and varnished in several steps, each layer is applied after the previous layer has dried. The job is best done with a spray gun. In extreme cases, you can use a brush, but it is important to understand that the appearance of the applied coating will not be the same as when using a spray gun.

You probably noticed that we still have 3 boards left. Of these, we will make the back, as in the photo.

The height of the backrest is 45 cm, and the width is 170 cm, but this does not matter, since it will not be integral with the bed - we will fix it on the wall at the level with the mattress.

Its manufacture is not at all difficult. Three boards are sawn off at 170 cm each. We make 11 boards of 45 cm each from scraps. If there are not enough boards of 45 cm each, then 2 boards of 40–42 cm can be screwed through one board. Just like the bed, the back needs to be given a presentable look by varnishing it.

The backrest can be hung on hooks, only in this case it will knock against the wall. More practical - rigidly fix the back to the wall. Now the wooden bed can be used.

Video: making a wooden bed

Chipboard bed: step by step instructions

The manufacture of structures from chipboard may seem very difficult, due to the nature of this material. If you cut, grind and glue the edge at home, then some difficulties arise, especially with cutting chipboard, as the decorative layer can be damaged. Many problems can be avoided if you make a drawing in advance and order the manufacture of parts in a furniture workshop. At home, it remains only to assemble the structure.

This time we will look at the process of making a small single bed with two drawers. Here is an example of cutting a standard chipboard sheet for one bed.

From the remnants of the stove, you can make shelves for books or something else that is needed on the farm.

So, we have a ready-made set of parts that need to be assembled to make a bed.

To do the job, you will need the following tool:

• screwdriver;
• drill (you can use a screwdriver instead);
• jigsaw;
• confirmation drill;
• bit extension;
• bits (cross and hex);
• mallet;
• pencil;
• ruler;
• awl;
• roulette.

You will also need consumables:

• Confirmations - 50 pcs.
• Stickers or plugs for confirmations - 50 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.8 × 45 mm - 15 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.5 × 30 mm - 30 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 3.5 × 16 mm - 40 pcs.
• Furniture corner - 12 pcs.
• Linear roller - 8 pcs.
• Wide furniture handles - 2 pcs.
• Plastic legs - 12 pcs.
• Bar 20 × 45 mm (3 m) - 3 pcs.

Now let's start assembling.

Since a mattress of 200 × 70 cm will be used, we will adjust the existing slats to the width of the mattress, making them 70 cm long. As a result, there will be 12 of them.

On ten rails on one side, you need to fix the corners.

First, we will make boxes that can be pushed under the bed. Let's assemble the frame first. To do this, lay out the blanks in such a way that the part glued with the edge is at the top. When assembling, it is important not to confuse the sides. Well, if the edge is not glued from the end of the inner part, then you will not mix it up. If the edges of the parts are glued in a circle (which is wrong), then you need to try to fold the box without twisting it, and then attach the bottom. After making sure that everything matches, you can start assembling.

Stepping back from the lower (or upper) edge of about 3 cm, you need to drill a hole with a confirmation drill. This must be done carefully, as one awkward movement - the part will be damaged. The thickness of the laminated chipboard is 16 mm, so we retreat 8 mm from the edge of the workpiece, slightly core and drill a hole without the slightest deviation.

If you have never assembled furniture from chipboard, then first practice on the unused remnants of the sheet.

By connecting the parts, we get such a box.

In order to screw the bottom, eight confirmations are enough - 2 on each side. These drawers are not designed to hold very heavy items because the plastic casters are not designed for that.

It remains to attach the handle and install the rollers. One box is ready, now the second is going in the same sequence.

Putting the finished boxes aside, let's start assembling the bed. Since boxes will be installed on one side, you need to put together 3 parts, using 3 confirmations on each side.

As a result, we get such a "bench".

Now we will assemble a decorative box, thanks to which the mattress will be fixed. This part is not as high as the base of the bed, so 2 confirmations will be used on each side.

We put the resulting frame on the bed frame so that it does not interfere with pulling out the drawers, and connect them together from the inside with 3.5 × 30 mm self-tapping screws.

You need to nail the plastic legs.

Let's start making ribs. On the front of the frame, draw a line from one edge to the other along the height of the bed frame. Now we fix the bars with the corners screwed to them every 13 cm, so that their lower part is lined up.

Instead of ribbed boards, you can use a chipboard cut to size.

After that, it remains to fasten the bars to the opposite sidewall with 30 mm screws.

Having rolled up the boxes and laid the mattress, you can begin to use the bed.

As you can see, with the right approach, it will not be difficult to assemble a bed from chipboard at home. The design can be any size, as in the next video.

Video: making a podium double bed from chipboard

pallet bed

Beds made from pallets are in fashion right now. At first glance, it may seem that this kind of design would be appropriate only in some kind of provincial dacha, but this is not so, because pallet beds can also be found in houses with a rather rich environment.

Let's move from words to deeds. Consider one of the options for assembling a pallet bed. How many will be needed? It all depends on the size and design of the manufactured product. So, a single bed with legs can be made from 2 pallets, and without legs - from 4. We used 8 pallets to make our double bed.

If possible, then you need to choose the most whole pallets. They need to be skinned.

All pallets should be painted with non-toxic wood paint. Since the tree is very hygroscopic, it is likely that the pallets will need to be opened with paint 2-3 times.

If there is such a desire, then you can open the blanks with varnish.

Having laid the first row of pallets, it is necessary to fasten them. If the wood is very strong, then holes are drilled under the screws.

Then the second row is laid.

All pallets are fastened together with metal plates, fixed with wood screws.

Thanks to this simple technology, you can make a pretty decent pallet bed.

You can also make a back from pallets.

From the remains of pallets, you can assemble some furniture and install it near the bed. In general - who likes what.

From plywood

You won’t surprise anyone with a plywood product, but you can make furniture from it at home. We will use sheets of the FSF brand, since not every plywood is suitable for making a bed.

Consider an example of making a bed for a spring mattress 1900 × 900 × 200 mm.

Materials for making a bed

The thickness of the plywood used can be 12, 15 or 18 mm. Thin sheets can be used when fastening plywood with screws. From 18 mm plywood, the bed will be more durable, but very heavy, so it is preferable to use sheets with a thickness of 15 mm - they are much stronger than standard chipboard.

• Plywood 2.44 × 1.22 m - 1 sheet.
• Beam 30 × 40 mm - 2 pcs. by 1.9 m.
• Beam 30 × 40 mm - 7 pcs. by 0.9 m.
• If the edges of the parts need to be pasted over, then buy a PVC edge. Its consumption will be no more than 8 p / m.
• Glue "Moment" - 1 tube.
• Screws 5×40 mm - 26 pcs.
• Screws 5×60 mm - 12 pcs.
• Screws 3×9 mm - 8 pcs.
• Thrust bearings - 4 pcs.

As for the tools, they are the same as for working with chipboard. Wood screws can be used instead of screws.

The side wall of the back of the bed has a large height. This is done so that the drawers that are pushed under the bed do not rest against the walls. If there are no boxes, then the side walls can be made the same.

Bed making

From the existing plywood sheet, you need to cut out the details corresponding to the drawing.

If desired, laminated plywood can be used. In this case, it is important to consider that it is very difficult to cut such a sheet at home without damaging the laminated coating. In addition, then the edges will necessarily need to be pasted over with a furniture edge.

To cut plywood, you need to use a file with a fine tooth, and drive the jigsaw slowly - so we get an even cut without chips. As a result, we should get parts of the following dimensions:

1. Front back - 932 × 650 mm.
2. Backrest - 932 × 500 mm.
3. Front side panel - 1900 × 200 mm.
4. The rear side panel is 1900 × 350 mm (if there are no cabinets, then we also make 1900 × 200 mm).

• The ends of all parts must be sanded. To do this, you can use a small wooden block wrapped with medium grit sandpaper.
• After that, we assemble the bed frame.

bed base

• The backrests are attached to the side rails with 5x40mm screws (2 for each front side and 3 for the back).
• Then we fasten the beam to the side rails of the bed using 5 × 40 mm screws (7 pcs per side). The head of the screws should be slightly recessed into the timber. If driven deeper, the screw will go through the plywood.
• We fix the crossbars from the timber on the horizontal bars with self-tapping screws 5 × 60 mm (1 for each point).
• With 5 × 40 mm screws, we fasten the bars to the backs from the inside (3 screws for each).
• At the last stage, we fasten the thrust bearings from below to the backs - 2 screws 3 × 9 mm for each.
• We install the bed, lay the mattress and use our product.

If instead of a spring mattress on the frame you use a soft one, then you need to cut the bottom out of plywood and screw it to the bars from above.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in making a plywood bed.

metal

If you have some welding skills, then you can make a metal bed. We will not even consider the option of a bolted connection, since such a product will loosen very quickly.

Look at the photo of a collapsible metal bunk bed. Agree that she looks very presentable.

For its manufacture, the following materials were needed:

• Profile pipe 50 × 25 mm - 8 m.
• Profile pipe 40 × 40 mm - 8 m.
• Profile pipe 20 × 20 mm (or 15 × 15) - 40 m.

In addition to pipes, a metal primer and hammer paint were purchased.

One of the advantages of such a bed is the absence of bent parts, so a pipe bender is not needed to make it.

If you buy pipes, and not use those that have lain for several years in the garage, then do not opt ​​for rusty ones, since then they will need to be cleaned for a long time.

Frame manufacturing

Since the bed is collapsible, its parts can be made in parts. Let's start with the backs.

• The base will be pipes 40 × 40 mm. We cut them into equal parts of 2 m each. If the ceilings are low, then they can be reduced to 185 cm.
• The width of our backs will be 90 cm, so we will cut off 8 identical segments of 82 cm (90-(4 + 4) = 82) from a 20 × 20 mm pipe, and 8 pipes of 30 cm each.
• So far we will use only half of the prepared material.
• On a flat plane, parallel to each other, you need to lay pipes-racks.
• Stepping back from the bottom 40 cm and from the edge 1 cm, a pipe 82 cm long is attached.
• It is necessary to check the correctness of the set angles with a building corner.
• After 95 cm, the second pipe is grabbed.
• We return to the first one, and on the tacks we assemble the grate - 2 pipes of 30 cm each and a cross member of 82 cm.
• We do the same with the second lattice.
• After checking the angles and alignment of the stuck parts, they can be welded thoroughly.
• The second back is made in the same way.

Now let's start making the shelves.

• We will also cut the profile pipe 50 × 25 mm into 4 equal parts of 2 m each.
• The width of the shelves will be 88 cm, so we need 26 pieces of pipe 20 × 20 mm, 83 cm each (88-(2.5 + 2.5) = 83).
• 2 pipes are laid on the edge parallel to each other.
• We mark 13 cm from the edges and grab one jumper at a time, placing them along the bottom edge.
• We lay out the remaining 11 jumpers every 14 cm and grab them.
• After checking, the shelf is scalded, and the second one is assembled in exactly the same way.
• To the shelf that will be installed at the top, it is necessary to weld a fence of the same height as the height of the lattice on the back. The pipe used for fencing must be bent, not welded at an angle. If there is no pipe bending machine, then it can be filled with sand and bent in a vice or between two supports. This pipe must be welded in the middle of the bed, as in the photo.

• In the same way, 3 more vertical racks are welded, but it will not be welded to the back, so you need to weld a small bar from the end.

The turn has come to assemble the structure together, for this we will use welding a little more.

Since our bed is collapsible, we will make universal fasteners for it.

• From a pipe 20 × 20 mm, 16 pieces of 10 cm must be cut off and welded to the backs at the junction.
• Each attachment point uses 2 tubes. They are inserted into the lattice pipe and cling to the back. If this is not done, then it will not be possible to assemble the bed, since the attachment points will not match.
• After checking the correct location of the part, we thoroughly weld the tubes to the back.

• With the help of a grinder, it is necessary to process the welding seams.

Assembly

• Now let's assemble the bed.
• In order for the collapsible parts to hold together securely, they will need to be secured with self-tapping screws (after final assembly).

It is also necessary to make a small ladder, the dimensions of which can be arbitrary.

• We attach it to the shelves with bolts and nuts.

• At the final stage of work, the entire structure is disassembled, degreased, primed and painted.
• After the paint has dried, the bed can be brought into the house and assembled.
• To close the ends of the pipes, specially designed plastic plugs are purchased for this purpose.

If the bed is made for children, then its length can be significantly reduced.

As you can see, at home you can make a beautiful and durable metal bed.

Production of decorative elements

If you want to do something original, then in the manufacture of a bed, instead of standard profile pipes, you can use forging elements.

Such parts are sold in specialized stores or made to order. Good results can be achieved using bent parts, and you can bend them yourself.

Bed legs

A person may have the wrong opinion that the legs of a metal bed will look rough. If you set a goal, then this element can also be made very attractive.

Video: making a metal bed with forging elements

Design choice

The wrong bed can cause a lot of inconvenience. Here are some tips from experts in the field:

1. It is best if the bed is made of natural materials. When using chipboard, plywood, laminate and other materials with synthetic additives (glue, etc.), the products must be certified, intended for the manufacture of furniture.
2. The size of the bed matters a lot. A single bed can be 100, 90 or 80 cm wide, and a double bed can be 200, 180 and 160 cm. If there are no restrictions on the size of the room, then you need to act on the principle - the more the better. The length of the bed must be 20 cm longer than the height of the person (minimum 10 cm).
3. Structures made of chipboard (and laminated chipboard) are the most unreliable and brittle.
4. The solid bottom of the bed does not allow the mattress to ventilate, but too little ribbing can cause the mattress to deform.

Since we are talking about a mattress, there are some nuances of choice here.

1. The mattress should not be hard. It should be soft enough, but not too deformed under the weight of a person lying on it, so it must be selected individually. For a double bed, you can choose 2 mattresses of different elasticity. To make sure that the mattress suits you, you need to lie on it for 15-20 minutes before buying.
2. If a hard mattress is purchased, then you can put a thick mattress topper on it, for the manufacture of which latex or memoryform is used (thickness from 3 to 10 cm). If you have not decided on the choice, then it is better to purchase a mattress with double-sided rigidity.

As for the design features of the bed, this is a matter of personal preference and convenience. In a small room, you can place a bed, under which there will be drawers, folding or pulling out from the podium. In a large room, you can give free rein to your imagination by making a wide bed.

Video: how to choose a bed in the bedroom

Single

A single bed is installed in cases where it is planned that only one person will sleep on it, whether it be a child or an adult. Also, 2 or more beds can be installed in one room, for example for two children. Be that as it may, you first need to decide which design is suitable, and then take up manufacturing. Photos of homemade single beds can help with this.

Photos of single beds

double bed

As a rule, married couples sleep together (at least for the first few years), and in order for this bed to be comfortable to sleep, you need to take care of its size and design. Look at the photo exhibition of double products.

Photos of double beds

bunk bed

Usually a double bed is made for children. It can be either a simple bed or a fairy-tale castle in which the child will fall asleep with pleasure. When choosing the design of this kind of children's bed, you need to think about both convenience and design.

Video: designing a baby bed

Photos of bunk beds

Drawings and diagrams: bed assembly

A broken bed is not yet a reason to run to the store, especially if there are bars and self-tapping screws at home. With the help of simple materials, everyone can make a double bed with their own hands, and personal preferences and wishes will serve as a guide.

The original bed will exactly match the required size, height and weight of the owner, and will also fit perfectly into the overall interior design.

Wood based

The bed frame can be made of iron or wood. And if the first option requires special skills in working with iron and hard-to-reach materials in the form of profile pipes, then every economic person will have bars along with the ability to handle a screwdriver and tighten self-tapping screws.

It will take no more than 10 days to assemble such furniture, and only safe and high-quality materials are used: self-tapping screws, plywood, MDF panel, metal corners, PVA glue, beams and dowels.

Competently and quickly assemble a strong and stable bed will help some recommendations:

• It is better to give preference to an even beam on glued pine with a length of about 200 cm;
• The dimensions of the future frame are recommended to be correlated with a pre-purchased mattress;
• For boxes complementing the design, chipboard sheets should be purchased;
• Self-tapping screws and other fasteners are bought with a margin;
• There should be no roughness on the bases of the folds of metal corners, indicating poor quality.

Let's start assembling

Once everything you need is ready, you can start assembling the bed. The algorithm below will serve as a diagram for the manufacture of the constituent elements of the bed with your own hands.

Frame and stiffeners

First of all, a rectangular frame is made, each side of which consists of three bars fastened in height. Further, the following manipulations are necessary:

• A beam measuring 4x5 cm is sawn into 4 parts: two 16 cm each and two 21 cm each, which are laid out on the floor along with the frame and fixed with PVA furniture glue.
• The second layer is laid parallel to the bars, firmly fixed with self-tapping screws on both sides. Periodically, it is necessary to check the evenness of the structure with a tape measure or rope. Protruding excess glue must be immediately wiped with a cloth, preventing it from drying out.
• For the base of the bed, slats with a thickness of at least 3 cm are taken. To increase the load capacity, a “stiffening rib” is made in the center, passing along the bed and having two supports.

Legs and supports

Four supports are needed and in each corner. Each leg is made from two pieces of timber 4x5 cm, while gluing their PVA seams, connecting them together with self-tapping screws and attaching them to the main frame. After that, the product is turned over and installed on the legs.

Mattress base

The bars for the support are provided for in the drawing of the bed and, depending on the suitable option, they come in various thicknesses, heights and locations. Most often they are equal to the internal length of the frame and are attached at the level of the second row.

To create an optimal orthopedic base, the rails are fixed at a distance of about 20 mm, fixing them at the edges and in the center with two self-tapping screws in each place. After the future bed is left to allow the glue to dry.

Sanding and painting

The final processing consists in grinding the entire surface, thoroughly washing the product. Before painting, a protective wood primer is applied to the perimeter of the structure, and the bed is painted with high-quality wear-resistant varnish in 3-4 layers.

Modernizing standards

One bed is good, but a children's and bunk bed is even better, especially since making it with your own hands is as easy as making a standard model.

Choosing a suitable scheme, you can experiment with the dimensions and design: make two beds, place a desk, sofa or lockers on the ground floor.

Experienced and purposeful craftsmen will also be interested in another modern and functional model - a podium bed. In this case, you will have to accurately measure all the dimensions of the room and prepare the lumber in strict accordance with the required area.

Mandatory drawers at the bottom of the bed and sidewalls hidden by panels.

If your soul and body require a new bed, then do not rush to run to the store. Making this piece of furniture with your own hands is simple and quick, and the end result will directly depend on individual wishes, taste and area.

DIY bed photo

Note!

In the season of gardens and holidays, you want to spend more time outdoors near your favorite beds, spruce forest and river. But you have to spend time returning to an apartment under the roof of a city high-rise building, because in the garden house there is no comfortable beds , and your living room without a bedroom and a night bed is right next to the dining table. Do not despair!

It all depends on how and where you want to use it. A single bed will suffice for your teenage child. beds . If you are of a large physique, then a comfortable sleep will come only on the "one and a half".

Are you married? So, you need a double from solid wood.

If there is enough space, then equip a pull-out bed under the podium, and place a cozy seating area with a coffee table on top, to which steps lead. In a small room where every square meter is expensive, build podium bed.

Built-in drawers for storing bed linen, clothes and other things.

For bed linen, place a tall, narrow drawer with a top hinged lid at the head of the bed. It is convenient to store pillows and blankets in it during the day, and at night - a cape.Assemble a beautiful decorative back and nail it to the wall above the headboard. Place night lights on it.

This will give your bed an aristocratic chic and comfort.

Choose a material and decide on a price

The metal is too expensive, requires a specially equipped workshop, a welding machine, has a high specific gravity and does not retain heat well. Good furniture can be assembled at home from sawn timber that is quite affordable without overpaying for a well-known brand.

Building a wooden bed with your own hands will cost less than buying a finished one in a store.

How to make a wooden bed with your own hands

Best for beds wood of medium (from 550 to 760 kg/m³) and high density - over 760 kg/m³. It wears out less, but is harder to process.

Optimum in terms of strength and ease of processing is pine.

IMPORTANT! Spruce is not suitable for load-bearing elements and bed legs . It breaks down quickly under pressure.

For the base frame, select boards or timber from dense wood - larch, birch. The legs can be made from bars, and the slats under the mattress from cheap pine boards 2 cm thick. Thin spruce boards 0.5 cm. Carefully check the material for knots, bumps and roughness.

The fewer such defects, the easier it is to process it with a grinder.

Check the curvature of workpieces in a simple and effective way.

1. Raise it by one of the ends to eye level.
2. The edges going from the near to the far end should be a straight line in perspective - their curvature will be immediately noticeable.

ATTENTION! Be sure to draw. Consider the size of your mattress. They may not match the ones below. Frame interior beds should be a little more. An allowance within 30 mm is allowed.

Immediately determine the presence and height of the legs.

Bed solid wood can be made without them by gluing cloth pads at the corners to protect the floor from scratches. For light single and "one and a half" heights, the optimal height will be 35-40 cm - you can vacuum and wash the floor or build a drawer for storing things and clothes.

ADVICE! Try to reinforce the joints with a furniture corner where possible.

Making a wooden bed with your own hands may not be the easiest solution, but the most profitable one.

Entry level bed

Under a mattress measuring 80x190 or 90x200 cm, build a simple single wooden bed . It is suitable for an adult or teenager. For manufacturing you will need:

• B rus for four legs with a section of 50x50mm;
• D skewer 25x245 mm for side rails and footboard, 25x100 mm - for the manufacture of overlapping rails, 25x200 mm- for the headboard wall;
• B rus with a section of 50x25mm for the manufacture of support beams for floor slats;

Bed materials.

In addition to good lumber, get:

• Furniture corners or bed ties.
• TO fixing screws 60 mm;
• piping length 80 and a section diameter of 8 mm;
• With wood glue;
• M orilka or impregnation for wood;
• A acrylic water varnish.

Materials required for work.

During the assembly of this and other variants beds use tools:

• D relay and screwdriver;
• H small hand planer;
• R hand saw circular or furniture hacksaw;
• W bodice machine or grinder;
• H a few clamps;
• TO sources for applying glue, varnish and stain;
• R sliding joiner's square;
• WITH building level;
• M alka - a device for quickly marking cut corners;
• WITH dull - a tool for fast and accurate sawing of workpieces at an angle of 45 and 90 °;
• AND measuring tape.

Tools to help you get the job done.

Assemble the headboard first. From a bar with a section of 50x50 mm, cut out two legs up to 80 cm high. Drill 4-6 holes with a diameter of 8 mm and a depth of 30 mm in their upper part from the inside. From boards 25x200 mm, cut out two blanks 950 mm wide. From the ends, make holes up to 50 mm deep, matching those that you made on the legs.

Lubricate the parts with carpentry glue at the articulation points and fasten with dowels, carefully hammering with a mallet.

The footboard is made from boards 25x240x950 mm and two pieces of timber 400 mm high.

Fasten them in the same way.

The backs are fastened to the side walls 25x250x1900 mm with furniture corners or ties, aligned along the outer edge legs.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION! Ties will make it easy to disassemble the furniture when moving.

Along the lower edge of the right and left walls, using wood glue and clamps, support beams 25x50 mm are installed and long 190-200 cm. After drying, before removing the clamps, the beams are additionally screwed with self-tapping screws.

Assembling the side wall of the bed.

From boards 25x100 mm, make 12-14 transverse rails long 95 cm. From the left and right ends, through holes with a diameter of 3 mm are drilled at a distance of 12 mm from the edge. Lay them across the support beams at a distance of 35-50 mm and tighten the screws.

Final assembly of the bed.

IMPORTANT! All parts must be sanded before assembly. With a sliding square, check the "straightness" of the corners between the side walls and the backs beds . Using a building level, control the horizontal arrangement of the frame structural elements.

Treat the rough surface with a grinder. The outer ribs of the backrests and other parts can be chamfered to prevent chipping of the wood and improve the appearance. For longer service life, treat wood stain and dry. Cover with acrylic varnish.

As you can see, making a wooden single bed is not at all difficult.

FOR YOUR INFORMATION! To end faces legs when moving, they did not scratch the floor, you can glue felt pads to them.

Single bed

There are differences in the design of the backs, and its longitudinal axis is reinforced with a jumper with a leg that prevents the mattress from sagging.

It is made under a mattress with dimensions of 140x200 cm.

The head of the lorry consists of a wall and two legs . Make a wall from 2-3 boards long 1400 mm and 25 mm thick, reaching the desired height (30-40 cm). The legs are made of timber 50x50x800 mm. Fastening wall elements and legs made with tongues 8x80 mm, carpentry glue and reinforced with long self-tapping screws from 65 mm.

The footboard is assembled in the same way.

Side rails of the bed - one and a half should be located on the same level with the lower boards of the backs and have the same height.For variety, change the design of the backs beds . The middle board of the wall can be replaced with short vertical inserts from the same boards fastened with tongues.

Corners can be cut at the outer edge of the top board.

To do this, using a special tool - malki - make markings with a pencil. Malka consists of a handle pressed against the edge boards , a narrow metal plate with a longitudinal cutout, and a mounting bolt that allows you to fix the plate by setting the desired angle and length of the cut. In such a simple way, you will quickly draw symmetrical cut lines on the left and right ends. To prevent the hacksaw from leaving the line, press a wooden guide bar along the marking with clamps.

To give an interesting look to the bed, before varnishing, you can limit yourself to applying stain only to the surface of the legs and backs.

How to make a wooden double bed

Two adults is a serious weight, which requires a more thorough approach in the choice of material and assembly method. Make a sleeping bed out of solid wood.

The basis is a standard double mattress measuring 200 by 160 cm.

You will need the following materials:

• B bar 50x50 mm for legs and bed frame, 3x3 cm - for support beams under the slats for the mattress;
• D oski 20x100 mm for the transverse flooring under the mattress;
• M metal furniture corner with a shelf width of 50 mm;
• With self-tapping screws 40 and 65 mm long.

From the tools you will need an electric jigsaw, equipped with a file with large and widely spaced teeth.

First, we assemble the frame for beds with internal dimensions of 210x170 cm and a height of at least 15-20 cm. To do this, glue three or four pieces of timber, tighten with clamps. After drying, we cut in such a way as to obtain two blanks for the side sides long 220 cm each and two for the backs - 180 cm each.

In the same way, we assemble a longitudinal jumper 10 cm high and 210 cm long.

When assembling, use a "lock" type connection. To do this, on short workpieces, use a jigsaw to cut a notch, removing a segment from the middle long 5 cm. On long blanks of the side walls beds , leave the "thorn" by sawing off the top and bottom of 5 cm.

Apply glue to the notches and spikes and connect them at a right angle, checking with a sliding square.

Attach the longitudinal jumper with additional support in the middle using a metal corner with a shelf width of 50 mm, aligning it with the lower edge of the frame. In the corners, attach legs from a bar up to 40 cm high. Fasten with glue and self-tapping screws.

For strength, secure the connections with clamps.

For greater reliability, make legs beds from a thicker bar. To give them an elegant look, chamfer the inside at a 45° angle using a miter box. Do not overdo it - the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsupport should be sufficient to withstand a lot of weight. When mounting the legs, use long countersunk head bolts with washers and wood glue.

At the bottom of each corner, place triangular inserts that serve to prevent deformation of the structure.

Glue beams of 3x3x210 cm timber along the long side walls.

Their upper face must be in the same plane with the upper face of the jumper.

From boards 20x100 mm make slats long 170 cm. They are laid and fixed across the lintel and longitudinal support beams with an interval of 3 cm.

The first and last rails should be adjacent to the front and rear walls of the frame, the rest should be evenly distributed between them.

IMPORTANT! To prevent the slats from squeaking, make them shorter than the inner width of the frame by 1 cm.

After assembly is complete, carefully grind the surface with a grinder or drill with a special nozzle using medium to fine grit sandpaper.Cover with stain, and after drying - with water-based acrylic varnish in several layers.

For double bed you can make a wall headboard from 2-3 boards long 25x100x1800 mm and 10-12 boards 25x100x450 mm. The first row that will be in contact with the back will go short boards . On the wrong side, it is necessary to equip hidden fasteners. At the appropriate places of the headboard, fasten metal plates with self-tapping screws, the free lower edge of which will be inserted into the grooves of the tires when hung.

The most reliable solution would be to fix the rails for wall cabinets with dowels on the wall - according to the number of short boards.

If you do not like a hard headboard, assemble it with upholstery from the following layers:

• D JV or plywood 1cm;
• P orolon from 3 cm;
• In atin;
• O bib fabric with an interesting pattern;

From a piece of plywood or chipboard, cut out the base 45x180 cm.

Bevel the ribs and sand carefully so as not to tear the upholstery and batting.

From expanded polystyrene or foam rubber, cut a workpiece that matches in size and shape. Attach it to the chipboard and make several symmetrical holes for decorative buttons. Measure and cut the batting and upholstery to the shape of the blank with an allowance equal to the sum of the thicknesses of all the blanks, multiplied by two.

Make sure the holes are symmetrical.

Using glue or a special spray, glue the foam rubber to the base. Carefully spread the batting on the floor. Lay a piece of chipboard on it.

Bend the seamed edges, starting from the bottom, and nail to the chipboard with a furniture stapler.

Repeat this operation with upholstery. To prevent the fabric from wrinkling, iron it and tighten it properly using clamps screwed to the middle of the workpiece.

IMPORTANT! Don't skimp on stapler staples. Nobody will see them anyway.

Finally, sew on the sofa buttons. From the wrong side of the headboard, pierce the upholstery with a large "boot" needle and drag a thick coarse thread, thread it through the eye of the button and bring it back through the same hole.

Fix the ends of the thread with a stapler on the wrong side of the back.

Hang the upholstered headboard on the wall with the help of rails for wall cabinets.

A wooden bed with your own hands, made according to a personal project, will cost less than a purchased one.

Remember, the lack of extra money and the lack of living space are not an obstacle to the fulfillment of the desire to sleep comfortably.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself wooden double bed.

The average person spends almost a third of his life in a dream, and his activity in the waking state, and hence success in business and personal life, depends on a good rest at this time. The quality of a night's rest largely depends on the comfort of the body position during sleep, which a comfortable bed should provide.

Nowadays, in the assortment of furniture stores, you can pick up almost any, even a very unexpected version of this necessary piece of furniture, but for various reasons it is far from always possible to purchase a model that suits all parameters. Therefore, the question often arises of how to make a bed with your own hands at home, and at the same time save a decent amount.

Variety of bed models

Before choosing a bed model for manufacturing, it will probably be useful to familiarize yourself with some of them in order to assess the complexity of the design and soberly weigh your capabilities. Today, furniture designers and designers have developed a huge number of options, and many of them may well be implemented at home.

The main difficulty of the self-manufacturing process mainly lies in the preparation and processing of structural parts, since for these operations it is often simply necessary to have special tools. But, one way or another, in order to decide on the creation of this piece of furniture, it is worth first of all to consider some models of various levels of complexity, made from different materials.

Bed with drawers

The bed, equipped with drawers, can be single, one and a half or double. But it is especially in demand for installation in children's rooms, where there are usually a large number of toys and items for various educational activities. This design is convenient in that it is possible, without cluttering up the room with unnecessary furniture, to create a place to store various things. Moreover, by pulling out such drawers, you can immediately see all the contents, and not delve into the jungle of a massive deep cabinet, where it is sometimes difficult to find the right thing.

A bed with drawers is a great solution for a child's room

By and large, the design of this bed is not much more complicated than the usual one, where free space is left under the bed. The main thing is to draw up high-quality drawings, put down the correct dimensions in them, process all the parts intended for assembly well, assemble them carefully and find fittings that are easy to use. In this case, the sliding elements should have an easy move, move out and slide in freely, and for this you can pick up special side guide mechanisms or fix small wheels on the bottom of the box.

hanging bed

This original version of the bed is not so difficult to manufacture, as it might seem at first glance. The only requirement that must be met for the effective functioning of this design is the sufficiency of free space, since the bed is designed for rocking in a certain amplitude range.

The bed itself consists of a frame - a frame and lamellas, but you need to take into account the fact that all parts must be made of high-quality material and securely fastened together. For this design, you need to choose light wood so that it does not create too high a load on the supports. The same quality should have a mattress, which sometimes has an excessively large unnecessary weight.

metal bed

A bed made of a metal corner, a rod, a strip and fittings is available for execution only by an experienced welder, but this option will last a long time without repair, and will not bother you with a creak. A metal bed is especially well suited to a certain style of interior, for example, retro, empire and even modern.

Such a "work of art" is available only to an experienced master

Stable and heavy in weight, the design nevertheless looks light, almost weightless, so it will perfectly fit into any environment and become an element decorating it. Metal causes negative associations for many due to rust, which can leave ugly stains on the mattress and bedding. You should not be afraid of this - today, with the development of technology, varnishes and paints have been developed that will protect not only bed accessories from rusty stains, but also the metal itself from this unpleasant manifestation of corrosion. On such a bed, the mattress will always be ventilated and will not sag, since the frame has sufficient rigidity and solidity.

Bed-wardrobe transformer

A bed that turns into a closet is indispensable in the cramped conditions of small apartments, and this design can also be reproduced independently by purchasing special lifting and supporting mechanisms. In this option, the bed should be easy to clean and imitate a closet or cabinet.

They can be different in size, imitate a massive wardrobe or turn into a compact narrow chest of drawers with a tabletop on top. The latter option can be used both for a children's room and as an additional, reserve bed - in case guests arrive. In addition, this design is sometimes installed in a loggia or on an insulated balcony, because in the summer it is so nice to relax in the fresh air.

Bed-cabinet - always ready to reserve a bed

The most difficult thing in the manufacture of such a model is to choose the right lifting mechanism, and, of course, to process all the details of the structure well so that it can be easily installed and removed, without distortions and jamming.

Bed-podium

Another bed option that will help save space in the small spaces of modern apartments is a podium bed. The meaning of this design is that the bed will not take up a single extra centimeter in the room, since the bed is removed for the daytime under the podium, which can be used as a usable area, for example, by equipping it for a workplace.

It is also not so difficult to make a similar model, but a lot of high-quality materials will be required for the bed and the podium, and the work itself will take a lot of time. However, the result will exceed all expectations, as the output will not only be a comfortable sleeping place, but also an original interior design.

In addition to the mentioned beds, popular, often chosen models include such as a design with a lifting mechanism, an orthopedic frame, bunk beds, a frame made of wooden slats, a sofa bed and others. Some of them will be discussed further in more detail, with illustrated instructions for their manufacture.

Find out by examining the two available options in a dedicated article on our portal.

We make a bed with our own hands

Double wooden bed

Wooden double bed "classic" type

This ordinary bed of standard sizes is made from natural wood, which can be processed by yourself, bought ready-made or taken to a carpentry workshop for precise sawing and processing. In order to make such a double wooden bed, you will need the following materials:

• Pine timber for the box and legs with a section of 50 × 50 mm, 2200 mm long - 15 pieces.
• Pine planed board 2000 mm long, 100 mm wide, 20 mm thick - 22 pcs.
• Carpentry glue or PVA for furniture.
• Self-tapping screws 65 and 40 mm.
• Metal corners with a shelf width of 50 mm.

The frame to be made is designed for a mattress measuring 2000×1600 mm, so the inner space should have dimensions of 2100×1700 mm, and when measured along the outer edge - 2200×1800 mm.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

Illustration
	Since the box for the bed frame must have a height of 150 or 200 mm, with a wall width of 50 mm, the timber must be glued (3 or 4 pcs.) To do this, the sides are smeared with wood glue, the bars are superimposed on each other, compressed in clamps and left to dry completely.
	Further, the resulting glued blanks must be adjusted in size. So, to assemble the box, you will need two side panels (side panels) 2200 mm long, one 2100 mm for the middle longitudinal jumper, and two end side panels 1610 mm long.
	In order to get a reliable locking connection at the corners, 50 mm are measured at the edges of the sides, on the upper and lower bar of the blanks - these fragments must be carefully sawed off and removed without affecting the middle bar of the panel. On blanks for the end sides, 50 mm is deposited on the middle bar, and then carefully removed. Then, the protruding middle parts of the bars of the sides are smeared with glue and installed in the resulting gap between the two bars of the end panels of the box. After that, they need to be compressed in clamps and left to dry completely.
	You can do it differently by using the connection of the bandaging of the timber. In this case, the bars are glued into the box already cut. To do this, the first row of timber is laid out on a flat floor, which should form a rectangle. The length of its sides should be 2100 mm, end - 1500 mm. The end parts of the timber of the side panels are smeared with glue, and the bars of the end sides of the box are pressed against them, and then fixed with self-tapping screws. The corners of the rectangle are set using a building square, and checked by measuring the diagonals - they must have the same length. Further, the middle row is glued to the bottom row, in which the length of the side bars is 2200 mm, and the end side element is 1700 mm. Its ends are smeared with glue, and it is laid between two bars of the sides, and then fixed. Then, the middle row, in addition to gluing, is fixed to the bottom row with self-tapping screws. In the last, top row, the beam has the same dimensions and is laid in the same way as the first, lowest row. The timber is glued, screwed with “under-sweat” screws and left to dry. This assembly method is more complicated, since if the master does not have the appropriate experience, the corners can go awry.
	The next step is to fix the middle structural element - a jumper glued together from two bars 2000 mm long. Before fixing the jumper, the bed frame is turned over, the end sides are marked from the inside in order to accurately find their middle. The jumper at the bottom should match the level of the box. Then, on the bottom row of the box beam, in the designated places, stop bars 150 mm long are screwed. They will serve as a support for the central longitudinal partition. For docking with these supporting elements, 50 mm from the edge is selected from the lower beam of the jumper. Fastening is made on glue and self-tapping screws. A metal corner with a 50 mm shelf can also be used as a support - appropriate holes are drilled in it for fastening to the walls of the box and to the crossbar. The finished jumper will become an additional basis for the boards laid on top of the bed frame.
	The bed model under consideration has 4 legs in the corners - it is also convenient to immediately fasten them with self-tapping screws or bolts now, while the bed frame is upside down. The legs will serve as segments of the same bar 50 × 50 mm. The legs are fixed to the structure first with glue, and then with self-tapping screws or through bolts, and it is additionally recommended to strengthen them on both sides with metal corners. The height to which the bed will be raised above the floor can be chosen arbitrarily, but usually it is from 200 to 300 mm. The shorter the legs, the more stable the bed will be, but on the other hand, the low height complicates cleaning.
	In addition, so that the center does not sag, it is necessary to attach one or two additional supports of the same height to the middle lintel - then the structure will have higher rigidity and reliability. The middle support legs can be fixed in different ways. This illustration shows an option when the legs are fixed with bolts on both sides of the jumper.
	After the glue has dried in the joints of the supports, the bed frame is again turned over to its normal position and installed on the already mounted "regular" legs.
	Further, on the side long panels of the box, lines are marked along which a beam or board with a width of about 30 ÷ 40 mm and a thickness of 25 ÷ 30 mm will be attached. This will be a support for the subsequent installation of overlapping boards. The support shelves must be placed so that they are flush with the center lintel. Usually they are guided by the gluing line of the upper beam of the sides of the box - if everything was done correctly, then the overall level will be ensured.
	The next step is to lay boards on top of the prepared support shelves. They should not rest against the sides of the box, otherwise unpleasant squeaks may appear during the operation of the bed. Therefore, a gap of 4 ÷ 5 mm on each side must be maintained between the walls and boards.
	The flooring does not need to be made solid at all - the boards are laid out at a distance of 20 ÷ 40 mm from each other.
	The boards are fixed in three places - along the edges, to the supporting shelves, and in the center - to the longitudinal jumper. At each attachment point, two self-tapping screws 40 mm long are screwed in. To avoid the appearance of cracks on the edges of the boards or on the shelves on which they abut, it is recommended to pre-drill holes for self-tapping screws with a small diameter drill - 3 mm.
	After the installation of the boards is completed, it is necessary to revise all surfaces of the structure. If necessary, glue streaks, large burrs, etc., are removed.
	Move on to finishing the assembled bed. First you need to bring all surfaces to a perfectly smooth state. For such wood processing, it is better, of course, to use a belt, eccentric or vibration type grinder, on which sandpaper with the desired grit is successively installed, ranging from 80-100 to 280-400.
	In the absence of a special tool, you can use an electric drill by installing a grinding nozzle on it. If woodworking was carried out with the help of power tools, then after them you need to carefully examine the product, since it is possible that in some places you will have to finish the work manually. After grinding is completed, the finished bed must be well cleaned of dust and small sawdust, that is, prepared for coating.
	If the product will immediately be varnished, then the parts must first be treated with a primer. If the wood is darkened with stain, then it is used first. The coating process is carried out with a brush or sprayer.
	Further, if it is planned to emphasize the textured pattern of wood, then after the stain has dried, the surface is once again passed over with sandpaper.
	It is desirable to carry out the coating not only from the outside of the bed, but also from the back, invisible to the eye. The fact is that the wood stain to a certain extent is an antiseptic and is able to protect wood from "traditional" pests - microflora or insects.
	The next step is varnishing the product. For this, it is best to use water-based compounds, especially when the work is carried out in an apartment. Such varnishes do not have a toxic odor, are environmentally friendly and dry quickly enough, and after drying they give a pleasant matte sheen. To achieve the desired appearance of the bed, you will have to apply several thin layers of varnish. Moreover, subsequent layers are applied only after the previous one has completely dried.
	When finished, a stained and varnished bed should look something like this.
	In between varnishing the bed, while the next layers dry out, you can make a full-fledged or impromptu headboard. In this case, the day panel of the back is made of boards and mounted in the form of a decorative lattice. It will require three boards 100 ÷ 120 mm wide, 1600 mm long, and 11 ÷ 12 pieces 400 ÷ 460 mm high. The lattice is also processed with sandpaper and covered with the same compounds as the bed itself.
	In this model, the headboard is not fixed to the bed - it is mounted on the wall at the level of the mattress. The last step is the mattress itself - and the bed is ready for use.

Double bed with installed lifting mechanism

Another option for a double bed is a model made using chipboard. In this design, unlike the previous one, there are no legs, which makes it more stable. The advantage of this bed can also be called the ability to usefully use the closed space under the bed, as the model is equipped with a lifting mechanism that allows you to easily raise the wooden frame without removing the mattress.

The disadvantages of this model include its massiveness, which makes it impossible to install it in a small room. In addition, chipboard cannot be called an absolutely environmentally friendly material, since it is made using binders, which can often release toxic fumes into the environment, which is completely unhealthy for humans.

It should be noted that when choosing furniture made of chipboard, it is necessary to create conditions for effective ventilation of the room in which it will be located. And for the manufacture of bed parts, chipboard panels with a formaldehyde emission class of E1 should be purchased.

So, in order to make a bed with a standard mattress size of 1800 × 2000 × 200 mm, you need to prepare the following materials:

• Chipboard sheet with a thickness of 16 mm and a size of 3500 × 1750 mm.
• Two sheets of fiberboard 5 mm thick, standard size 2745 × 1220 mm.
• Beam with a section of 50 × 50 mm, 18 m.
• Board 10 ÷ 15 mm thick, 60 mm wide - 20 m or plywood 10 mm, size 1525 × 1525 mm.
• Lifting mechanism with gas shock absorbers.
• Self-tapping screws, bolts.
• Metal corners.
• Upholstery fabric, 1500 mm wide, 5000 mm long.
• Sintepon 1600 mm wide, 5000 mm long.
• Foam rubber 2 sheets, 10 mm thick and 3000 × 1000 mm in size.
• Brackets for stapler 8÷10 mm.

Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to the manufacture of structural elements.

A. From chipboard with a thickness of 16 mm are made:

- headboard - 1 piece, size 1080 × 2130 mm, it can be rounded or have right angles;

- side panel of the box - 2 pcs., 2330 × 350 mm;

- end panel of the box - 1 pc., 2130 × 350 mm;

– internal partition – 1 piece, 2010×280 mm.

B. Details from a bar 50 × 50 mm, fixed in a box:

- longitudinal elements fixed on the side panels - 2 pieces, 2010 mm long;

— transverse part fixed on the end panel – 1 piece, length 1810 mm.

- racks with a height of 100 mm - 4 pcs.

V. Details from a bar 50 × 50 mm for the manufacture of a lifting frame:

- longitudinal elements of the inner crate - 5 pieces, 2005 mm long;

- transverse parts of the inner crate - 2 pcs., 1805 mm long.

G. Plank or sawn plywood (10 mm) lamellas 60 × 15 × 1805 mm in size - 11 pcs.

D. Sheathing of the bottom of the box - 2 sheets of fiberboard 1650 × 2330 mm each.

Having made all the elements necessary for assembling the structure, you can proceed to sheathing and assembling parts.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	If the headboard will have a rounded shape, then the template for it is first made on paper, and then transferred to chipboard and cut out with an electric jigsaw. It is very important to consider that the headboard should be pressed against the wall - so the design will be more rigid. Usually, at the junction of the floor and the wall, there is a plinth having a certain width. Therefore, in the upper part in the center of the headboard, a special supporting element is fixed from a bar or a piece of chipboard, having a thickness equal to the width of the plinth. With its help, it will provide an emphasis on the back against the wall. You can do it differently by removing a section of the plinth from the place where the bed will be installed.
	Further, the fitting of the details of the box and headboard is performed at the installation site. Then, the exposed panels of the chipboard box are fastened together at the corners using pieces of timber or metal corners. The headboard panel is not attached yet, as it must first be sheathed with fabric. Details from a bar are tried on the fixed panels.
	Lamellas are tried on across the timber laid on the chipboard, and their location is marked.
	The next step is the head of the bed is sheathed with foam rubber - this operation is performed using a stapler and staples. The foam is leveled and first fixed on the front side of the panel.
	Then, its edges are wrapped and shot with staples from its back side.
	From above, the foam rubber is covered with the fabric chosen for this. It is recommended to purchase a dense material that can repel dust.
	The sheathing work is carried out starting from the bottom of the panel, and then the fabric is carefully stretched and fixed in the same way as the foam rubber on the back of the headboard.
	Now the upholstered back can be installed in its permanent place.
	Next, the frame of the lifting frame is made. Its parts are assembled and fixed with metal corners. All five bars are distributed at the same distance from each other, starting from the middle of the structure. The middle beam should rest on a chipboard partition fixed in the bed frame. Having assembled the frame, it is temporarily set aside.
	Further, both inside and outside, the walls of the box are sheathed. First, a synthetic winterizer is also fixed on them with the help of a stapler, and then the same fabric as the head of the bed was previously sheathed.
	The next step is to mark and fix the elements of the lifting mechanism on the frame.
	Further? the frame is fitted onto the box and the place of installation of the beam on the side panels of the box is marked, on which the second side of the elements of the lifting mechanism will be fixed.
	Then, the beam is fixed, and the fixed part of the lifting mechanism is screwed to it, and the structure is tested. The beam is fixed on the chipboard using self-tapping screws 50 mm long. Their hats must be sunk into the wood by 0.5 ÷ 1 mm.
	After that, lamellas are fixed to the frame, across the bars, with the help of self-tapping screws.
	When folded, the lifting mechanism looks like this. It is located in the resulting niche between two bars.
	In the illustration presented, you can see a semicircular cutout made in the central partition. This space is necessary for the free lifting of the frame lattice.
	Further, the design must be installed on the side panel for the convenience of further work.
	The next step is to prepare fiberboard sheets, which will sheathe the bottom of the bed box. This will create a full cabinet, suitable for storing various things.
	Sheathing can be done with staples or self-tapping screws of small length and diameter, but with wide caps.
	After mounting the bottom part, the bed is lowered and installed in place.
	In this photo, small wooden parts are clearly visible - racks fixed on the side inner beam. Such elements are installed not only in the middle part of the side beam, but also at the corners of the box. They are mounted at the same height, and are necessary for rigid support of the movable frame when it is in the folded state.
	For the convenience of raising the frame together with the mattress laid on it, loops sewn from fabric or peculiar handles are fixed in its front part. They are screwed with two or four self-tapping screws with wide caps to the end beam of the frame.
	A bed with an open mattress looks like this.

Single bed

This section presents the design of a single bed, which can be used for an adult or teenager, as it has quite suitable dimensions. As for any piece of furniture installed in the bedroom or children's room, for this product you need to choose high-quality and environmentally friendly material.

single bed

Dimensions in these drawings are in inches, 1 inch = 2.54 cm or 25.4 mm. Knowing this ratio, it will be easy to translate the presented sizes into units familiar to domestic masters.

This table shows the manufacturing process of this simple bed model:

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	For the manufacture of this bed model, the following materials and parts will be required, which are listed in accordance with the diagram shown in the illustration: - A - legs. For the manufacture of these parts, a bar with a section of 2 × 2 ″ (50.8 × 50.8 mm) is required. The height of the beam for the headboard - 33½ ″ (851 mm) - 2 pcs., for the footboard - 17¼ ″ (438 mm) - 2 pcs.; - B - the back and front walls of the bed frame, as well as the wall located at the foot, are made of a board with a section of 1 × 9¼ ″ (24.5 × 245 mm), the length of the side elements is 75½ ″ (1918 mm) - 2 pcs., footboards - 39″ (991 mm) -1 pc. - C - longitudinal beams for flooring, made of boards with a section of 2 × 1 ″ (50.8 × 25.4 mm) and a length of 75¾ ″ (1910 mm) - 2 pcs.; - D - overlapping boards 1 × 4 ″ (25.4 × 102 mm) and length - 39 ″ (990.6 mm) - 13 pcs.; - E - bottom piece of headboard 1x6″ (25.4x152mm) - 1 pc. and the upper part with a section of 1 × 9¼ ″ (25.4 × 235 mm) - 1 pc., The length of both parts is 39 ″ (990.6 mm). In the future, a curly back will be cut out of the board prepared for the top element.
	The first step is to make structural details and assemble them into separate sections from which the bed will be assembled. The most complex detail in terms of shape is the upper part of the back, which is not only decorated with a curvilinear shape, but also must have a perfectly finished top and bottom edge. The indicated dimensions are applied to the prepared board, with the help of an impromptu compass, the rounded upper part of the back is determined. You can make a so-called pattern (pattern) on paper, and then transfer the form to the board. Then, sawing is performed using an electric jigsaw, processing the edges with a milling cutter and grinding with a grinder or manually. It is very important that the surfaces are brought to a perfectly smooth condition, as they will not be sheathed with fabric or other material. In addition to this detail, the bottom panel for the headboard is cut out. It is much easier to deal with it, since the most difficult task will be to cut off the edges evenly, and then process them well.
	Then, legs 851 mm high are cut out of a beam with a section of 50.8 × 50.8 mm. They also need to be well processed and cleaned. After that, on the sides of the bars that will be turned inward, markings are made to connect them to the crossbars.
	To assemble the headboard neatly and have strong connections, you can proceed according to the presented scheme. To do this, 2 ÷ 3 holes are drilled in the bars and end sides of the boards for each of the elements. Next, dowels 80 mm long and 8 mm in diameter are prepared. Then the dowels and the joined end parts of the parts are lubricated with glue. Further, the dowels are carefully driven through the beam into the transverse parts of the headboard. If the process is carried out in this way, then the joints on the outside of the legs are closed with a wooden lath, which is fixed to the glue, and for the period of its drying, the leg is squeezed in clamps.
	Provided that the closing decorative rails are glued, landing grooves for the side panels of the bed (side rail) are left on the outside of the legs. In this case, they are attached to the side of the legs, which is the most durable connection. If it is not planned to fix additional pads covering the dowel connections on the leg, then the holes in the bars are not drilled through, but only from the inside, deepening them by 25 ÷ 30 mm. Then, also with the help of glue and dowels, the headboard parts are interconnected. This assembly method is somewhat more complicated than the previous one, but with a careful approach and precise work, it is quite doable.
	Next, the legs and the panel for the footboard are made. The height of the beam for them should be 438 mm, and the size of the panel should be 235 mm wide and 990.6 mm long. The connection of the footboard parts is carried out in the same way as in the headboard section, that is, with the help of dowels and glue.
	The next step is to connect the side panels (tsargs) to the head and foot sections. They can be fixed in different ways. The most common option is metal corners. They are screwed to the tsargs and legs with self-tapping screws.
	In addition to metal corners, there are special parts for connecting these parts, called bed ties or hooks. With their help, the side panels are hung on the headboard and footboard legs. If hooks are used for connection, then the design will be collapsible.
	The next step to the tsargs is to fix the supporting shelves or elements made of timber or docks. They are fixed along the lower edge of the sidewall.
	Glue is applied to the beam, then the part is leveled on the side and pressed against it with clamps. When the glue is completely dry, the parts are screwed with self-tapping screws.
	The next step is to lay out and level the prepared boards on the bars fixed to the tsargs.
	When fixing the lamella boards to the bars, the entire structure acquires the necessary rigidity. Each of the boards is screwed with two self-tapping screws on both sides. Holes for self-tapping screws are marked by drilling (3 mm).

The bed options presented above can be considered the most affordable for self-production. In order for the work to be effective, it is necessary to prepare well for it by equipping the home workshop with the necessary tools and high-quality material. Having fulfilled these conditions and performing all technological operations carefully and slowly, it is quite possible to get a high-quality piece of furniture that will last for many years.

Video: DIY bed making master class