Homemade copier for a wood lathe. DIY wood lathe: photos, drawings

The device of a lathe for woodworking

Making cylindrical parts by hand is laborious and time-consuming work. Yes, and it is difficult to obtain a product good quality... Much faster and more accurate can be done cylindrical part on the lathe... Wood blanks are processed on it by turning. The main parts of the lathe are - bed, headstock with electric motor, tailstock and handguard.

Woodworking lathe STD-120M and its parts:
1 - base; 2 - electric motor; 3 - bed; 4 - belt drive guard (casing); 5 - magnetic switch; 6 - headstock; 7 - spindle; 8 - an assistant; 9 - tailstock.

V headstock (see fig.) installed spindle - a shaft that receives rotation from an electric motor using a belt drive, as well as bearings.

1 -headstock body;2 - belt pulley;3 -washer with locking screw; 4 , 7 - shaped covers; 5 -thrust ring; 6 - spindle; 8 - special nut.

End spindle has a thread, it is screwed on special devices for fixing the left end of the workpiece... Depending on the size of the workpiece, different devices are used: trident(see fig. a), faceplate(see fig. b), cartridge(see fig. v).

Workpieces of small diameter and up to 150 mm in length are fixed in cartridge. Before this, the end of the workpiece is slightly cut off onto a cone, clamped in the clamp of the workbench and hammered into the chuck with a mallet. For more reliable fastening, a screw is screwed into the workpiece through the side hole.

Long workpieces are fixed at one end in trident ... To do this, a recess is made in the center of the end of the workpiece with an awl (or a hole with a diameter of 4-5 mm is drilled to a depth of 5-9 mm). After that, cut through the center of the workpiece with a hacksaw with fine teeth to a depth of 3-5 mm. In the center of the other end, a recess is made with an awl.

Short workpieces of large diameter are fastened in faceplate screwing the workpiece with screws.

Tailstock(see fig.) supports the right end of long workpieces... The tailstock is brought to the workpiece along the bed guides and fixed with a bolt and nut. Finally, the end of the workpiece is pressed with a special part - the center. It is moved by rotation flywheel and secured with a clamp.

1 - frame; 2 - center (Morse taper); 3 - quill; 4 - clamp handle; 5 - hole for lubrication; 6 - quill nut; 7 - quill screw; 8 - threaded bushing; 9 - flywheel; 10 - screw for fastening to the bed; 11 - biscuit.

The cutting tool is supported by handyman(see fig.). It can move both along and across the bed, fixed by turning the handle.

The handcuff is installed in such a way that its upper supporting part is 2-3 mm above the level of the line of the machine centers and is not more than 3 mm away from the workpiece. To check the gap, the workpiece is manually rotated one or two turns.

The transmission of movements in mechanisms and machines is shown conventional signs on the kinematic diagrams .
They depict details that are directly involved in the transmission of motion. For clarity, the contours of other details are often given.
The kinematic diagram of the lathe is shown in the figure.

Turning on the lathe and working on it is allowed only with the permission of the teacher.
Do not put tools and foreign objects on the machine bed.
The parts of the belt drive of the machine must be guarded
Do not lean on the parts of the lathe.
Immediately report all faults in the machine and electrical wiring to the teacher.

Modern factories are equipped with lathes (more complex and productive than those on which you will work in the training workshop). Serve them woodworking machine operators ... In addition to mastering all the techniques of turning on a machine, they must know the properties of wood, the device of machines, be able to read drawings and diagrams, sharpen a tool, and set up a machine. Working on machines requires accuracy and precision, care and caution, coordination of hand movements.

Wood chisels are a class of hand-held carpentry tools. Devices are used mainly for working with natural material, but can also be used for working with metal, leather, plastic, etc.

1 How to make a chisel from scrap materials?

The name of this device comes from the German word Stemmeisen, which translates as "slotting tool", "gouging tool". This term meant a thin, hand-propelled, without the use of a mallet, instrument. This term came to Russia, presumably, during the reign of Peter I and meant a device that now falls under the definition of "chisel", i.e. item for chiselling.

Chisels for wood carving consist of a handle and a metal sheet... In the recent past, when more often it was necessary not to buy, but to "get it", many craftsmen made such a household item for themselves. In addition, it was not always possible to find the tool needed "here and now". You can make blades for homemade chisels from discarded saws from any sawmill. Both disc and flat blades are suitable. A workpiece is cut out of a piece of saw with a grinder, then processed, sharpened, then a handle is inserted.

There are craftsmen who make a canvas from the outer bearing race. For this, the clip is cut into two parts, heated to orange and straightened with a hammer on an anvil. Two blanks emerge from the resulting plate. How to make a chisel with a rounded cutting edge becomes clear if you look at the pipe. You will have to cut hardened metal, and therefore, using a grinder, you must remember that when high speed and continuous cutting, metal tempering may occur, so that the workpiece should not be allowed to overheat.

Sharpening of chisels, that is, their cutting edges, should be carried out on emery, at low speed, with periodic wetting with water. Overheating of the metal must not be allowed, otherwise the entire workpiece will be hopelessly damaged.

2 Types of chisels according to the principle of operation

Currently, tool factories are producing, and numerous stores are selling great amount the tool under discussion. By the principle of work, we distinguish the following types of chisels:

• those that cut without help additional tools, only the strength of the hands is used; such devices are made in small sizes, with a thinner metal part; you can work with them on any tree, it is convenient to cut small parts and patterns.
• larger options that can be worked with the effort of the hands, and if necessary, you can use a mallet; a metal ring is put on the handle of such chisels, and wooden, rubber and polyurethane mallets can be used.
• varieties that work only with a mallet, usually such chisels are large sizes; they process hardwoods, the chisel handle must be looped back, otherwise it will quickly fail.

TO the last species the electric mesh also applies. Such a tool is multifunctional, it can be used in work on the restoration or repair of furniture, for removing old paint or carpet from the floor, etc. The electric chisel has a convenient, "under the arm" body, light weight, spot illumination. The tool can be used in hard-to-reach places. Supplied with nozzles different sizes and forms. The set includes "chargers" for the battery versions.

3 Chisels for wood and lathe

Special, specific tools are made for wood carving, with their help craftsmen create unique panels, woodcuts and linoleum engravings. A set of chisels for such work is produced with a wide variety of cutting edge shapes. There are spoon cutters, their canvases are made curved along the entire length, they are intended for sampling round deep depressions in a tree. They got their name due to the fact that they were originally used for the manufacture of spoons, bowls, ladles and other kitchen utensils... Now there is a wider application, however, sets of dishes and spoons with Khokhloma painting are still popular.

For the manufacture of a large number of products of the same type, wood lathes are used. Chisels for a lathe can be manual and caliper (cutters). Hand tools should have a long and thick handle that allows a firm grip and sufficient safety distance. The direction and force of the cut are determined by the hand of the master. Caliper chisels are made much shorter and do not have a handle. Feeding and speed is carried out through the support, the drive can be mechanical or electrical. Turning cutters can be bought in stores either individually or as a set. Tool sets for lathes are available in a wide variety of sizes and modifications. And at different prices, depending on the method and quality of the metal and the tool itself.

4 Choosing a set of chisels for all occasions

Before purchasing chisels, first of all, you need to decide what they are for. If this purchase is for a one-time job (repairing windows in an apartment), you can buy an inexpensive set that will not be needed for the next few years. If wood carving is a life's work, then the choice of tool must be taken with all responsibility. According to the manufacturing method, chisels are forged, cut and stamped. Forged have a thicker blade, which allows you to work with harder materials.

Punching cutters allow you to maintain high accuracy when working with materials of lower density and hardness. It is necessary to install thrust washers on stamped chisels so that the handles do not "sit" on the shank when the mallet strikes. By the type of handle attachment, the chisels are available with skirted cones and shanks. Cone mounts are better able to withstand fairly strong lateral and shock loads. They also resist twisting and bending better when punching holes when used as a lever. The length of the chisel matters: 10-15 cm is optimal.

Longer lengths reduce the load that the web can withstand... Pay attention to the handles as well. The handle should be smooth, streamlined. A steel cap should be fitted at the end to prevent the wood from flattening. GOSTs provide for handles made of different breeds wood, but practice shows that modern plastics last longer and withstand shock loads better than the hardest woods.

5 Chisels for woodcarving and more - determining quality

The reliability and durability of the purchase largely depends on the quality and hardening of the steel. Chisels should be made exclusively from, i.e. made of alloys strong enough, but not brittle. Such steels should be marked with the symbols: drop forged, CrV or the inscription "chrome vanadium". If this marking costs no indication of the manufacturer, and the kit itself is very cheap, then this is a Chinese fake.

If there is no steel grade in the instrument's passport, then you can check the quality using a grindstone. How to sharpen a chisel with its help is not difficult to understand, for sure each of us has processed knives with it at least once in our lives. So, on properly hardened solid steel, burrs appear during sharpening, which can be easily removed. If burrs do not appear, it means that the steel is overheated, and such a tool becomes traumatic, you cannot work with it. If the burrs are not removed, it means that the steel is soft and will not keep sharpening, and the cutting edge will wrinkle even with little effort.

Before going to the store, it makes sense to familiarize yourself with the manufacturers of the tool and the reviews on their products. As a rule, bona fide manufacturers mark their products, give an address and guarantees. You should not buy tools without an address, it may turn out to be a deliberate defect. Also, do not seek to overpay for a set of functions, for example, a universal chisel will not always be the right choice, if most of the attachments never work, moreover, in the event of a breakdown of exotic paintings in some cities, it will be impossible to purchase them separately.

1. What are chisels
2. Gadgets
3. Algorithm of work
4. Do it yourself
5. Meisel
6. Semicircle
7. Groove
8. Make or buy

The creation of wooden cylindrical products is impossible without hand tools - chisels for a lathe. It is from under its blade that an unnecessary amount of material is removed and the workpiece acquires an artistic decoration. Turning chisels can be bought ready-made, but such kits are very expensive, especially well-made. Cutters for processing wood are easy to make yourself, which will be discussed later.

What are chisels

For the professional processing of a workpiece made of wood on a lathe, various working tools are required, including a rich set of chisels. According to their functional role, they can be divided into groups:

1. For rough processing. They have 2 cutting edges at an angle to each other.
2. Meisel for finishing. This cutter is a blade with a flat plane and angular sharpening on the left or right side. The angle of inclination of the cutting part can be different.
3. A reyer chisel of a semicircular shape is used to work with non-standard products.
4. The cutting tool is used to remove fragments of wood when forming a pattern.
5. The boring tool for wood turning has a shoulder to help remove excess material released during the dot process.
6. Round chisel for processing round products. Its tip can be smooth or serrated.
7. Cutting file for processing the end sections of the workpiece.
8. Cutter stop, mounted on the tool to adjust the turning depth.

The presented types of incisors are the main ones; there are many variations in size, modification, quality. Experienced craftsmen woodworkers often come up with their own author's devices for turning wood blanks.

In order for the manufacture of tools to proceed in an orderly and accurate manner, the craftsmen recommend creating drawings for the products with the content of dimensions, shape, slopes and material. So you do not have to constantly think about the required parameters, sharpening of turning tools for wood is realized just like clockwork.

Gadgets

The experience of creating hand tools is different for the craftsmen, the sets of tools for production, respectively, differ from each other. Let's try to imagine the average universal kit blanks:

1. Metal is a blank. Depending on the intended type of chisel, they use old files and rasps, cut steel pipes, square-section fittings, and car springs.

1. A wooden handle is needed for the convenience of using the future cutter. It can be bought ready-made in hardware store or carved using a wood lathe.

1. Metal working machine. This can be any rig that works with emery wheels.
2. Overalls. Even with home-made cutters, there is a risk of injury from glowing sparks and metal chips. Prepare glasses, gloves, robe.

Algorithm of work

The manufacture of any cutting devices is carried out according to the standard algorithm:

Do it yourself

To understand how hand tools are made for woodworking, consider the process of making several of their main varieties.

Meisel

It is the main tool used for fine finishing. wood blank... V skillful hands this chisel is enough to create any pattern.

A straight sharpened meisel is ideal for creating rectangular grooves in the workpiece... Its width varies from 4 to 40 mm, the standard sharpening angle is from 22 to 45 0. The desired blade bias is determined by the personal preference of the craftsman over time.

How to make it:

1. We take an old file or any other flat rectangular blank. If necessary, align the working end;
2. We grind the cutting part, carrying out the primary turning. We use an abrasive wheel, we make sure that the blade is processed evenly in thickness without drops;
3. We temper if the metal is not hard enough;
4. We put the handle on.

This type of chisel is easy to prepare, and you can start building your own collection of hand tools to gain experience and understand the process.

The beveled Meisel is more versatile than its sibling:

• Processing of round products becomes possible;
• An obtuse angle is good for making rounds;
• The tool is convenient for processing the end of the product.

Manufacturing is similar to the previous fixture:

1. The workpiece is machined to fit the shape of the future tool;
2. A sharpening of the chisel is created at an angle of 70-75 0, after which the made tool must be sharpened.
3. We put the handle on. Meisel is ready.

The rest of the angular cutters for the wood lathe are created using a similar algorithm. Sharpening is carried out only after careful control of the tool dimensions.

Observing the exact angles when making your own tools is not necessary. It is enough to adhere to the necessary and convenient proportions, evenness of processing.

Semicircle

The semicircular tip of the chisel allows you to create neat grooves when processing wood products. To make such a cutter, we outline on the workpiece the contour of the tool along which we cut. After that, in the usual way, we sharpen at an angle of 25 ... 40 0.

The chisel radius affects the size of the groove in the product, therefore, for professional production it is advisable to make several cutters with a semicircular tip for different cases.

Groove

After stripping the bark, the wooden trunk is processed with grooved chisels, they are designed for the initial rough finishing of the material and creating a blank for the product.

In addition, grooves are used to cut concave shapes and recesses in frontal turning.

How to make a grooved cutter:

1. Take a tap to cut a thread of the desired diameter.
2. We process a metal blank with it at a distance of 8-10 cm from the edge, in fact, cutting off half of the rough product.
3. We sharpen the lower convex part of the blade at an angle of 30-40 0.

Grooved homemade wood turning tools are not easy to manufacture, but it is quite possible to figure out the process.

Make or buy

The process of creating tools for working with wood is fun and not always easy. If you have the right set of tools, an inexperienced teacher will have no problems - the process is intuitive, but painstaking.

Of course, you can buy a ready-made set of fixtures, but how much will it cost ... At the same time, the wear rate of the metal increases over time, and even now new chisels will soon require turning. Making your own is a way of getting a tool at your fingertips. Custom cutters with individual dimensions will be adapted to the owner and his needs.

A more detailed description of the chisel manufacturing process is presented in the video. The wizard talks in detail about creating a blank, applying sharpening and touches on others important points that are necessary for a successful completion of the work.

All photos from the article

Manual processing of a wooden blank is good in that you can cut any pattern, no blind spots are guaranteed to remain. True, this will require woodcarving skills, and it will take a lot of time. Buying a lathe allows you to significantly increase the speed of wood processing, besides, a simple machine can be made on your own, so the game is worth the candle.

Is it worth buying a lathe

Wood processing on a lathe introduces some restrictions on the shape of the future product, this must be taken into account when choosing in favor of mechanical processing. By and large, the product obtained on the machine will consist of a combination of bodies of revolution, but usually this is quite enough. Also, using the machine, you can make wooden balls and plates.

As for the purchase of a machine, that is, in such a decision, there are both weaknesses and strengths:

• on the one hand, we get a device that will significantly increase the speed of wood processing. Products on a lathe for wood will reduce the cost of a unit of production just by saving time;
• its advantages include the fact that it can cope with soft metals. Much, of course, depends on the manufacturer and the materials used;
• modern machines have a wide range of dimensions, so you can choose the right option for both a small workshop and for personal use.

But the disadvantage can be the price of a new machine, especially if woodworking is more a hobby than a main source of income. You can save a little while searching for old Soviet models, but still the cost will remain decent.

If you want to buy a lathe as an experiment, just to try yourself in wood turning, and finances do not allow, then you can try to make a lathe yourself. Of course, you won't be able to create a full-fledged analogue of a factory model, but it is quite suitable for processing small blanks from soft wood.

Small wood products on a lathe own production may well compete with those that were made on a machine from a renowned manufacturer.

More about lathes

Before proceeding to the choice of a suitable model of the machine or engaging in the manufacture of a home-made analogue, it will not be superfluous to understand the structure of conventional lathes and the basic methods of working with them.

The main elements of the machine

The device of a wood lathe remains almost the same regardless of the model.

The main elements are:

• base. It can be either wood or metal. If there is no need to often move the machine from place to place, then models with a metal base are preferable, since during processing solid materials it will be more stable;

• bed. Quite cheap models can be equipped with an aluminum frame, this is, to put it mildly, not the best choice in terms of strength and rigidity;
• electric motor, all machines are powered by the mains;
• the protective cover hides the belt drive;
• control Panel- there is a start button and a speed controller on it;

Note!
Modern models all without exception are equipped with a speed controller.
This allows you to handle different materials, not just a tree.
Older models can only operate at a certain shaft speed.

• headstock and tailstock;
• tool - needed to stop the cutters when working with wood.

The device of the tailstock of a lathe for wood is extremely simple, it is necessary only in order to fix a long workpiece, otherwise its far end will sag. When fixing the workpiece, it is brought along a guide to the end and, by rotating the handle on the back, the tip slightly deepens into the center of the workpiece.

A shaft passes through the headstock, to which the torque is transmitted from the electric motors (a belt drive is used). The right end of the shaft (it can also be called a spindle) has a thread on which the device is installed for. For fixing, a chuck for a wood lathe is most often used.

Additional accessories

You can purchase a number of accessories for the machine that will make it easier to work with wood. Thanks to them, it will be possible to process long workpieces without any problems without fear of sagging in the center.

A trident for a wood lathe allows you to exclude the rotation of the workpiece around its axis when the cutter removes the chips. Outwardly, such a device looks like a crown with sharp teeth along the edge, a sharp spike can be placed in the center, but there are tridents and just with teeth along the edge.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to process a long workpiece, for example, when making balusters for stairs. In this case, fixing it at the ends is not enough, you will need 1 more support in the center, which will not interfere with rotation. For this, a steady rest is used for a wood lathe.

The steady rest is a ring with 3 rollers, their position is adjusted depending on the diameter of the workpiece. Theoretically, they should not interfere with rotation, but with a strong compression on the wood, quite distinguishable traces from the passage of the rollers remain. So we can recommend finishing without a steady rest after roughing, if possible.

Note!
You can make a bezel with your own hands.
The main challenge is finding suitable rotating parts, they have to be strong, not very marks on the wood and wear resistant.
The optimal solution for a home-made steady rest, you can consider wheels from ordinary roller skates.

When you need to make a large number of products of the same type (the same balusters on the stairs), it is almost impossible to do it manually. The path of the cutter will be slightly different each time, which will affect the shape of the product.

The solution to this problem can be a copier for a wood lathe, it allows you to guide the cutter along the same path every time. It is also important that its design is simple, so you can make a good copier yourself.

This becomes possible thanks to the use of 2 movable carriages, the lower one moves along the workpiece, the upper one can move in the transverse direction. On the upper carriage, it also houses a small wheel for moving along the guide slot.

You can turn a regular machine into a wood lathe for making balls. This will require special device in the form of a rigidly fixed cutter and a lever that will allow you to move this cutter along an arc of a certain radius (it is desirable that the radius can be changed).

This design is installed from the end of the part and in order to make the ball, you just need to gradually turn the lever, removing the chips from the end of the workpiece.

Note!
The workpiece should not be too short, otherwise you can get hit in the face when turning the handle.

Homemade machine

For the simplest homemade device from the purchased items, you will only need an electric motor and a tool for a wood lathe. All other elements can be made from available tools.

The base of a miniature machine can be made from a thick board, in which a slot should be made to move the tailstock (this will be needed when fixing the workpiece). A metal strip must be secured over the slot.

The handyman can be made from a regular metal corner and a metal tube. Connections (if the machine is small) can be brazed. The main thing is that the upper part of the handguard is horizontal, after all, the cutter for the lathe on the tree will move along it, and it should move without unexpected jumps.

An L-shaped piece of metal with a hole into which a metal pin will be inserted to fix the workpiece is suitable for the role of the tailstock. The only drawback of this solution can be considered that it will not rotate, so you need to leave an allowance at the ends of the workpiece, since the tree will darken slightly when rotating due to heating when rubbing against the metal.

Despite the simplicity of this design, the main units are similar to factory machines. The only thing to remember is that such a machine is suitable only for wood, and even then for not very large workpieces. You will have to forget about making, for example, balusters or chair legs.

• at the end, the finished product is cut off with a cutting tool. You can finally bring it to mind manually.

Summarizing

A lathe is an indispensable tool not only in a carpentry shop, but also in a small workshop, for the owner of which woodworking is just a pleasant outlet. You can buy such a machine, or you can try to make it yourself. Of course, a home-made device will be inferior to a factory one, but it will be enough for solving small problems.

The video in this article shows an example of how a homemade lathe works.

Lathes are specialized equipment used to make wood products. It is on such a machine that legs for furniture are made, doorknobs, balusters and other wood products. There are many models of modern lathes with different costs.

Models of lathes for wood

There are a large number of different models of lathes, they can be divided into the following types:

• Standard machines, depending on the product, are processed on such a device in the center, in a special chuck or faceplate. The design of the equipment includes an electric motor, steel frame, cutters, chucks and control system.
• Copying tools, with their help they produce the same type of wood products, in large quantities... Manual devices are cheaper and will profitable option for small industries.
• Milling machines, on which wood processing is done along the axis of the product. The work is done with a cutter and a circular saw.
• Machines for twisted flutes, the equipment can carry out standard operations, as well as curly cutting on the sides of products. Electronic control greatly facilitates work, and the ability to simultaneously process two products increases productivity and saves time.

Copy lathe for wood Proma DSL-1200

The lathe is designed for processing wood products, turning profiles and decorative details. Salient feature apparatus - the presence of two incisors... One is installed on a steady rest and is used for processing round workpieces, removes up to 10 mm of material in one pass. With this tool, you can make round workpieces of different diameters. The settings are set on a special device.

The second cutter is installed in the copy carriage and grinds the parts according to the copy. The original mount allows you to quickly prepare the machine for work.

For the manufacture of long products, the delivery set includes a steady rest, which is attached to the guide rods as a support and prevents the long workpiece from bending. By installing a faceplate, the machine will allow you to process multifaceted products.

Specifications:

• Voltage - 380V.
• The maximum length of the part is 1200 mm.
• Center height - 215 mm.
• Weight - 395 kg.
• Dimensions - 2105x1000x1225 mm.

Price - 255803r.

4-spindle copying lathe T4M-0

Model T4M-0, equipped with a horizontal grinding unit, which is capable of processing 4 workpieces simultaneously using a copy (lace legs of tables and chairs, musical instruments).

• The cast bed and balanced parts have eliminated vibration, increasing the speed of machining large workpieces.
• The shaft is set automatically at the beginning of the cycle and returns to its original position after finishing machining.
• Pneumatic clamp on spindles.
• Adjustable feed speed of the shafts.
• Smooth adjustment of the spindle rotation speed using the block.

Specifications:

Additional equipment:

• 7.3 kW engine.
• Inventory control of rotation speed.
• Expansion of the working space up to 1500 mm.

Price - 49700r.

Copying lathe for wood CL-1201

The CL-1201 machine is used in manufacturing industries for turning rounded products with a diameter of up to 1200 mm and processing parts cylindrical... Clamps provide ample processing possibilities: faceplate, chuck, centers.

Features of the lathe:

• Heavy spindle, equipped with a device for controlling the rotation speed, which allows high-quality processing of workpieces based on weight, dimensions, type of wood.
• The spindle can change the direction of rotation, ensuring good processing of wood of any density.
• The control and adjustment of the lathe is carried out from a portable console, which, at the request of the user, can be placed on the front or rear column.
• The stability of the machine is ensured by the frame made of steel, and the rear columns made of cast iron. This achieves minimum vibration during operation and improves the quality of processing.
• The base allows you to process workpieces up to 1270 mm long, and to increase it, you can use additional sections up to 1270 mm.
• The mechanism for copying is included in the basic delivery, which significantly expands the possibilities.
• The milling attachment allows the production of longitudinal grooves along the entire length of the workpiece.
• The mobile support moves over the entire surface of the part. The control is carried out by a flywheel. Working depth adjustable with a lever
• With the help of the tailstock, the machining accuracy of long parts is increased.
• The degree of protection of the machine is IP54, the motor is reliably protected from overheating and overload, and the electronic parts are protected from moisture and dust.

The standard package includes:

• Copier and template holder.
• Support for a knife 254 mm.
• Fastening washer 254 mm.
• Revolving center.
• 2 straight cutters
• Chisel stand.
• Mobile steady rest.
• Spindle speed control devices.

Price - 153588r.

Copying lathe for wood CL-1201A

The device is manufactured by the Austrian company Stomana, which has been supplying equipment for over 20 years. The device is designed for processing wood and rounding products up to 1270 mm long, from materials of different densities. The copier is supplied in a basic configuration and can be used to model products.

Included in delivery lathe includes:

• Copier and template holder.
• Support for the knife.
• Mechanism for applying spiral channels.
• Revolving center.
• Leading center with a diameter of 20 mm.
• Fastening washer.
• 2 cutters.
• Steady rest support.

Copy lathe for wood KTF-7

The lathe KTF-7 is used for processing wood on stationary and rotating workpieces. The equipment uses disc milling tool, which increases productivity and service life. This scheme allows you to get parts that cannot be made on a conventional lathe.

Our article is devoted to the nostalgia for school labor training workshops. Many people know how to do wood turning, but not everyone can afford to buy and maintain equipment for this. Is it possible to assemble a machine that meets technology and safety requirements with your own hands - let's figure it out together.

What GOST says

The good news is that you don't have to reinvent the wheel. The entire assembly process and drawings of each machine module are described in TU3872-477-02077099-2002, and although this document is not in the public domain, it can be obtained on an individual request. Although this is unlikely to be needed: the device of the machine is so primitive that you can easily navigate the intricacies of its manufacture, even from pictures from school textbooks.

Another positive fact - STD-120M, apparently, was designed with the expectation of manufacturing "on site", so you can either find all the components for assembly on sale, or make and modify yourself. Naturally, if it becomes possible to inexpensively purchase accessories for this machine or its younger brother TD-120 - do so. Factory-made parts are more reliable, easier to align, besides, the unified frame design allows you to assemble one machine from many donors.

Please also note that standardization of modules largely determines the safety of equipment operation. The basic principles of industrial safety are announced in GOST 12.2.026.0-93, and the rules for electrical protection are set out in GOST R IEC 60204-1. Match any part or machine module you are making with these standards.

Manufacturing the bed

Instead of a cast iron bed, we offer a lighter welded structure... It consists of two pieces of 72nd angle steel 1250 mm long. It is tempting to make the bed larger for processing heavier products, but remember that such changes require intervention in other parts of the machine. Perhaps you should take TT-10460 as a sample for a meter-long workpiece.

We place the corners on a flat horizontal plane with shelves to each other. We insert calibrated inserts between them so that the bed guides are located strictly parallel with a distance of 45 mm. To fasten the guides, we use two corners, the same as on the bed, 190 mm each, which we put on the front and rear edges. Before welding the parts, it is recommended to squeeze them with clamps so that the metal does not lead when it cools.

The guides are fastened with another 190 mm jumper, in the bottom shelf of which there are cutouts for each corner. This part is installed with the formation of a cell, with dimensions exactly corresponding to the landing spike of the headstock, in the standard version it is 45x165 mm.

Such a frame can be attached in any way to a workbench or deck, but it is recommended to weld all fastening elements without violating the integrity of the base. If a separate corner is allocated for the machine, weld the legs from the pipe perpendicular to the corners of the bed and, for greater stability, make them a small "brace" with a sledgehammer. Ultimately, the weight of the bed, fastened to the workbench, should not be less than 60-70 kg.

The assistant

This element conventionally consists of two parts. For both, one type of workpiece is needed - a 50 mm corner, inside which another is inserted, 30 mm wide. They are welded along the edges, as a result, you should get two pieces of 260 and 600 mm each.

The short part is the adjustable base of the handrail. One of the shelves is cut off, but not completely, leaving a 110 mm long segment with an inclined cut. The other shelf is trimmed at right angles 60 mm from the rear edge. A mating frame must be made from a thick steel plate, which will clamp the guide of the assistant's post.

To make a rail with a clip, take a regular pipe an inch and make a longitudinal cut in it with a grinder. The resulting sleeve should be about 150 mm long, we put it in a corner of 25 mm, orienting the slot outward perpendicular to one of the shelves. We tighten the parts with a clamp and boil along the entire length closest to the shelf slot. We cover the workpiece with a second corner of the same length and attach it to the tube from the back side.

The guide is welded flat to the protruding shelf of the adjustment rack from the inside of it. For fixing, a screw with a long handle and a nut welded to the rail are used. On the reverse side, the striker is fastened with a cotter pin or even a welded rod.

The handrail is attached to a 20 mm rod of smooth reinforcement, which is centered on the outside of the corner piece. The rod fits tightly into the tube of the guide system, and when the screw is tightened, it reliably crimps from all sides. A long corner piece 600 mm long is welded to the bar with a slight slope towards itself and a slightly "sharpened" leading edge.

Drive and transmission

The standard version of the drive is an asynchronous three-phase motor with a power of up to 2 kW (usually 1.2 kW), connected to the headstock shaft by a V-belt transmission on double-grooved pulleys. The bed for attaching the engine can be located between the legs of the bed, or on an additional platform behind the headstock, which will complicate assembly, but make it more convenient to transfer the belt.

It is far from always possible to use an engine with the required shaft speed, therefore, the output to the final speed is carried out by adjusting the diameter of the pulleys. For example, if you have a blood pressure of 1480 rpm, then in order to reach the cherished 1100 and 2150 rpm, the diameters of the leading and driven streams must be correlated as 1: 1.5 and 1.3: 1.

When positioning the motor, it is useful to equip the frame with a plate attached to the door sheds. The engine installed according to such a system will be suspended all the time and will ensure that the belt is tightly pressed by its own weight. And if you equip the platform with a pedal, you can change the speed even on the go.

There are no difficulties in the electrical part either. Switching is performed with a standard three-phase starting button with a reverse, for such a low-power motor there is no need to install a starter. The only moment is the inclusion of braking direct current while holding the stop button, for which you need a powerful diode bridge (on KD203D) according to typical scheme inclusion.

The VFD can be used as a direct drive, eliminating the need for headstock design. To do this, you need to fix the engine on the transition platform, in the lower part of which there is a longitudinal alignment spike 45 mm wide as a standard alignment tool for the STD120 bed.

Headstock

Looking ahead, we note that both the headstock and the tailstock include parts that can only be made with access to a metal lathe. Otherwise, it makes sense to think about purchasing ready-made modules or, at least, their cast consoles.

At the base of the headstock there are two bearing housings of the S, V or U types, permanently fixed to a frame made of angle steel. Unfortunately, it is impossible to predict which standard sizes will be available, but in general, the spindle axis height above the bed should be at least 120 mm. Given that the diameter of the spindle shaft is about 25 mm, the size of the bearing unit with a total height of about 70 mm will be the most interesting.

The shaft is turned from round timber of carbon steel with a diameter of 40 mm with a tolerance of no more than 0.05 mm. There are two main shaft variations. The first one is the simplest: the whole shaft remains in the center, then descents are made to the bore diameter of the bearing assemblies, then a thread is cut at the ends. For axial fixation, four grooves for the retaining rings are machined on the shaft.

1 — seats for bearings; 2 - grooves for retaining rings

The second variation has a skirt-like extension just behind the thread of the cartridge. It is designed to install a flanged thrust bearing mounted on the ledge of the headstock base. This approach can reduce bearing wear if the machine is machining massive parts.

The base of the headstock is two pairs of corners or two channels turned towards each other. By bringing-down the vertical shelves, you can adjust the height of the base to the axial height of the existing bearing assemblies. A 45 mm strip is welded to the bottom of the base, which serves as an adjustment groove. The order of assembly is important: first, bearings are pressed onto the spindle, then the shaft is mounted on a bed with a backing of adjusting steel plates.

Tailstock

Making a tailstock is much easier. It consists of four parts:

1. Angle steel base 100 mm high in the same way as for the headstock. From above, two 50 mm corners are bolted across with bolts, in their shelves in the center there are cutouts of squares 40 mm wide.
2. Guide (external) thick-walled square tube 40 mm wide, 150 mm long and 20x20 mm internal clearance. In the rear part, you need to install a plug with a thickness of 6-8 mm and a hole in the center of 8 mm, it is fastened with two screws through the walls of the tube.
3. The inner tube, also known as the quill, is made of a 20 mm profile tube, preferably thick-walled and milled exactly to fit the guide lumen. In the rear part of the quill, an M14 nut is welded, a metal rod is inserted and welded into the front part, widened to 5 mm to fit a double-row bearing.
4. The drive screw has a thread for a nut in a quill (it is desirable to make a trapezoidal one), in the rear part there is a transition to an 8 mm thread for attaching the flywheel.

The principle of operation and the assembly diagram of the quill are quite obvious, but special attention should be paid to the alignment of the axes. The guide tube, fixed by welding in the cutouts of the corners, can be raised higher or lower due to the transformer steel shims. The headstock and tailstock must be perfectly aligned, with a tolerance of only a couple of tenths.

As for the method of attachment to the bed, it is the same for the attendants and for the handcuff. Studs M14 or M16 are welded to the bottom of the headstock, and a large ploughshare bolt is inserted into the slot of the handyman. From below, the modules are tightened with nuts with rods welded to them, like levers. For uniform tight pressure from below, a 50 mm channel is placed as a striker.

Copy turning machines are used to make many of the same parts, such as balusters for stair railings, fence posts, etc. You can make a functional structure with your own hands, using devices that are unnecessary in the household.

Lathe making

The most primitive model of a lathe is made from a conventional drill. But this is not the only solution. The main parts of the future device:

• bed;
• front and rear racks (headstock);
• electric motor;
• master and slave centers;
• tool stop.

The bed is the base for placing all the elements and mechanisms. Therefore, it is made from a thick bar of wood or metal. The headstock is securely fixed on the base, the part will be fixed to it. The front pillar houses a device that transmits movement from the electric motor to the driving center and then to the part.

The back stand (headstock) moves along a guide on the bed, it holds the free end of the workpiece. A tool stop is placed between the headstock. The headstock should be located strictly along a single axis.

For a do-it-yourself machine, an electric motor with a power of 200 - 250 W, with a speed of no more than 1500 is suitable. If it is planned to process large parts, a more powerful motor is required.

A faceplate is put on the pulley of the electric motor, which fixes large workpieces. The faceplate contains points on which the part is pressed. The opposite end of the part is fixed with a corner.

To turn an ordinary lathe into a copying machine, an additional device is required - a copying machine.

Copier for lathe

The copier will be based on unnecessary manual frezer... It is placed on a plywood surface of 12 mm, the size of the site is 20 x 50 cm. Holes for fasteners and cutters are made in the site, and stops are installed - bars for fixing the cutter. The router is placed between the clips and secured with a pair of large nails.

The distant part of the platform moves along the bed along a guide - a pipe. Its ends are fixed in wooden bars. The bars are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. When fixing the pipe, it is necessary to use a level and align the axis of the pipe with the center of the machine. Before installation, a pair of bars with holes are put on the pipe, easily moving along the guide. A platform is attached to the bars, on which the router is located.

Second important element do it yourself directly on the lathe - a bar in a horizontal position, on which the templates will be attached. A bar of 7 x 3 cm is suitable; it is attached to the vertical supports with self-tapping screws. The stands are screwed onto the bed. The top surface of the block must be in perfect alignment with the axis of the machine.

When the copier is not in use, the block is dismantled, the platform with the milling cutter is retracted and the machine turns into a regular lathe.

The stop is made of thick plywood and is attached to the work surface. In fact, the emphasis plays the role of a copier in this design. It is fixed vertically, to the end of the working surface it is fixed on a transition bar made of wood. The copier can be removed, it is installed on the stand with self-tapping screws. The stand must be fixed firmly, without the possibility of removal.

The templates are made of plywood, using self-tapping screws, they are screwed to the front surface of the bar. The upper surface of the timber should be aligned with the axis of the template.

Cons of the proposed design

• The working surface with the milling cutter has to be moved with both hands, since during operation it is skewed and jammed;
• you can only copy enough simple elements, for example, it is impossible to repeat the twisted patterns on the posts;
• it is more convenient to provide a screw drive to move the cutter;
• and it is better to replace the cutter with a circular, such a device will turn out to be more universal.

All photos from the article

A lathe-copying machine for wood is a machine that is widely used in factory woodworking to replicate products of a certain configuration, corresponding to a given pattern. This equipment allows you to process any part with high precision and speed. However, production machines with their large dimensions will be difficult to locate in a small private workshop.

Copying equipment in woodworking

Many joinery enthusiasts, gradually expanding their tool base and improving their skills, come to the idea of ​​assembling a copying lathe for wood with their own hands. Indeed, with the help of this device it is possible to make an exact copy of any piece of furniture and carry out restoration work.

Note!
In most cases, of course, the main factor driving people to “reinvent the wheel” is the high price of the finished manufactured product.

The principle of operation on a wood copying machine is quite simple:

• The workpiece of the required size is clamped in a horizontal position.
• Launching the device, forcing the workpiece to rotate around its axis.
• In turn, the movable cutter also removes excess wood, turning the blank into a product of the desired shape.

Structurally, a copying device for a wood lathe is a whole series of parts connected to each other, so there will be something to work on.

Hand-made assembly of equipment at home

Lathe

In order to assemble a small copying machine for wood with your own hands, you will need to make some effort and patience, as well as invest financially (about 7-7.5 thousand rubles). But this is several times less than the costs that await you if you purchase a ready-made version.

Both in production and at home, it is often necessary to make a part, the shapes and sizes of which are completely identical to the original sample. In enterprises, this problem is solved with the help of such a device as a copy-milling machine, which allows you to make copies of the original part in large series, is distinguished by high speed, as well as the quality of the processing performed.

What is the milling process

Copy milling machines and any other equipment of the milling group can be found in almost any industrial enterprise. This is explained by the fact that the milling operation is one of the most common methods used to perform machining. This technology allows you to perform a wide range of roughing, semi-finishing and finishing operations with simple and shaped blanks from ferrous and non-ferrous metal, to work with wood and plastic. On modern milling equipment, parts of even the most complex shapes are processed with high precision and productivity.

There are two main types of milling: counter (feed and rotation of the tool in different directions) and down-cut (the tool rotates in the same direction as the feed). The cutting part of the milling tools is made of various materials, which makes it possible not only to work successfully on wood, but also to carry out processing (including grinding) of even the hardest metals and alloys, artificial and natural stone.

Milling equipment is divided into two types: general-purpose and specialized, to which the copy-milling machine belongs.

Capabilities of copy-milling equipment

The copying machine, belonging to the milling group, is designed for copy-milling work with flat and three-dimensional parts. In addition, such a device can be used to engrave shaped profiles, apply inscriptions and patterns (even of high complexity) to products, and carry out light milling operations on wood and other materials.

Using tools with a cutting part made of various materials, parts made of cast iron, different grades of steel and non-ferrous metals are processed on copy-milling machines. Blades of turbojet engines and steam turbines, propellers for ships, punching and forging dies, impellers for hydraulic turbines, molds for pressing and casting, molds, etc. are successfully produced on such devices for the release of parts in small and large series.

The copy-milling machine performs technological operations that are practically inaccessible to universal equipment. The principle of operation of such a machine is based on the copying method, for which a special template is used. The use of a template eliminates the human factor when processing even the most complex parts, due to which all finished products have the same shape and geometric dimensions... Conveniently, one template can be used to accurately manufacture a large batch of parts that will be completely identical to each other.

In order for the copying of the shape and size of the template to be as accurate as possible, a copier (pantograph for a router) is installed on the copy-milling machine. The purpose of such a device is to accurately transfer all movements of the copying head to the cutting tool.

How a copy milling machine works

Copy milling machines, as mentioned above, are used for planar (profile machining) and volumetric (relief machining) milling. As a working tool, cutters are used on them, which, processing the contour or volumetric surface of the part, repeat the movements of the copier. The connection between the working body and the tracking system of hand-held machines is provided by mechanical, pneumatic or hydraulic elements necessary to generate the force transmitted from the copier to the working body of the copy-milling machine.

The template on such machines is a flat contour or spatial model, a reference part or contour drawings, and the element that reads the shape and dimensions of the template is a copying finger or roller, a special probe, a photocell. To make a template, you can use an aluminum sheet or a sheet of another metal, plastic or wood. The template and workpiece are positioned on the rotating machine table.

The working body of the copy-milling equipment is set in motion thanks to such structural elements as a screw, a slide valve, a solenoid, a differential or an electromagnetic clutch. The relays installed in the amplifying devices of copy-milling machines are electromagnetic, hydraulic or electro-optical.

The quality of the workpiece (surface roughness, shape and dimensional accuracy) depends on such a parameter as the speed of movement of the tracking device. In this case, the following characteristics of the finished product can be achieved: roughness - No. 6, profile accuracy - 0.02 mm. The main elements of the executive circuit of such equipment are an electric motor and a hydraulic cylinder.

Pantograph installed on copy-milling equipment provides copying at a given scale. The design of the pantograph consists of a guide pin, its axis, a tool spindle and a separate axis of rotation. The spindle and the guide pin are located on the same rail, the ratio of the arms of which determines the copying scale.

Moving along the contour of the template, the finger drives the rail, which freely rotates on the axis. Accordingly, on the other side of the rail, the machine spindle performs identical movements, processing the workpiece. On copy-milling machines that are made by hand, such a device will also not be superfluous, its presence significantly increases the functionality of the equipment.

Varieties of machine tools of the copy-milling group

The equipment of the copy-milling machine can include various types of drives. Based on this parameter, the following are distinguished:

• equipment with a pantograph (suitable for processing parts in 2–3 dimensions);
• devices with a copier fixed on a rotary rail moving in a vertical plane;
• single- and multi-spindle machines equipped with turntables round or rectangular;
• machines, the supply of which is provided by mechanical, electrical, hydraulic devices;
• photocopying equipment.

A homemade copy machine can be any of these types (including copy grinding machines). You just need to find drawings on the Internet and select components.

According to the degree of automation and the method of fixing the workpiece, the following categories of copy-milling machines are distinguished:

• manual or bench-top, on which the workpiece is mechanically fixed (on these devices you can drill holes of various shapes according to the template);
• automatic equipment of a stationary type, the workpieces on which are fixed using pneumatic clamps (on such machines they work with aluminum);
• automatic stationary-type equipment with pneumatic clamps, on which a three-spindle head is installed (on these copy-milling machines, triple holes are simultaneously drilled, which does not allow the execution of units of the two previous types).

How a copy milling machine works

As noted above, on a copy-milling machine, the workpiece is processed using a master device - a copier. All movements of the copier along the contour or surface of the template are transmitted thanks to a special (copying) device to the working head of the machine, in which the cutter is fixed. In this way, cutting tool exactly repeats all the movements that the copier makes, used to equip the router.

The movements of the elements of the copy-milling machine during the processing of the part are divided into main (rotation and movement of the spindle when plunging the tool into the workpiece material, movement along the contour of the working table and slide) and auxiliary (movement of the spindle head, slide and table in accelerated mode, as well as setting movements that are made by the tracer table, the copying finger, stops and the clamp fixing the spindle head).

In copy-milling machines working on aluminum, two tracking schemes can be implemented: a simple action and an action with feedback. When implementing a direct action scheme, the working body of the machine makes movements due to the fact that it is rigidly connected to the copier. The reverse action scheme does not provide for such a connection and the movements from the copier to the working body are not transmitted directly, but through the tracking system.

As mentioned above, contour and volumetric milling is performed on copy-milling machines. In contour milling, the movements of the copier occur in a plane parallel or perpendicular to the tool axis. In the first case, the movement of the working table of the equipment can only be longitudinal, and the cutter and the copying finger move vertically. In the second case, the table moves both longitudinally and transversely. In volume milling, the part is processed in stages - thanks to several movements of the table and the tool, made in parallel planes.

The direct action scheme can also be implemented through a pantograph, which allows you to reduce the size finished products in relation to the size of the template used (scale). Most often, such an additional device, which is easy to make yourself, is installed on machines used for engraving and light milling work.

Another variation of a self-made machine

How to make a copy-milling machine with your own hands

Many home craftsmen would like to purchase a copy-milling machine to equip their workshop, but the cost of such equipment is quite high. Meanwhile, possessing desire, spending not so much time, effort and financial resources, you can make such equipment with your own hands.

Naturally, homemade copy-milling equipment cannot be compared with professional ones in its power, reliability and functionality, but even on such machines you can make high-quality copies, work with them on wood and process blanks from other materials. Many people try to adapt the copying device to the existing one, but this is impractical, since this requires reworking almost the entire machine. As practice shows, it is better to assemble your home-made copy-milling machine from scratch, choosing the appropriate components for this.

The photo below shows an example of a homemade machine tool with an addition in the form of a video. The creator of the machine leads the story in English, but in principle everything is quite understandable and without translation.

It is easiest to make a copy-milling device with your own hands according to a typical scheme, which includes a supporting structure - a frame, a work table and a milling head. The drive for ensuring the rotation of the working tool is an electric motor that transmits the movement through a two-stage mechanism, which makes it possible to obtain two speeds. The work table of this homemade device can be adjusted in height.

Many of those who made a copy-milling machine with their own hands note that when changing operating modes, such equipment begins to show a lot of shortcomings. The most common of these disadvantages are machine frame vibrations, workpiece bending and deflection, poor quality copying, etc. To avoid such problems, it is best to make the copier-milling device highly specialized and immediately set it up for processing workpieces of the same type. This is explained by the fact that it is almost impossible to take into account all the shortcomings that will arise in universal equipment when changing operating modes.