Do-it-yourself installation and connection of the washing machine. Connecting a washing machine: step-by-step installation instructions and connection features (80 photos) How the washing machine should be connected

Before the purchase washing machine the first thing to do is to choose a place for its installation, taking into account the possibility of connecting to communications.

Washing machine selection

When choosing a washing machine, it is necessary to determine its main technical characteristics based on the frequency and volume of laundry to be washed, the possibility of drying it and the conditions for connecting to communications.

Dimensions and weight

The smaller the better, the main thing is that the washing machine can be brought into the room and that it fits into the installation site.

The standard dimensions of modern washing machines are 60 cm (width), 85 cm (height), 60 cm (depth). There are models with a depth of 45 and even 35 cm.

Maximum weight per load of dry laundry

Another important characteristic is the maximum load. On sale are available with a maximum load of dry laundry from 3 to 7 kg.

Here I will share my personal experience. For a family of up to four people, 3 kg is enough - this is the weight of two single sets of bed linen made of medium-weight fabric. It seems more convenient to do one load of change of linen for the whole family, but do not forget that you will wash delicate and colored items, tulle, sweaters and much more separately.

It is worth evaluating the possibilities of living space in terms of simultaneous drying more wet laundry. As a result of 90% of the operating time, the machine will be partially loaded. The consumption of electricity and water will increase, as the tank of the washing machine is filled to a certain level, and since there is less laundry, more water will be poured in and more will be spent on heating electricity. From personal experience, a 3 kg machine successfully cleans a family of 6 people.

The main advantage of automatic washing machines with a small load of laundry is low power consumed electricity. Therefore, they can be connected to any available electrical outlet. As a result, the installation eliminates the need for costly electrical wiring work.

The power consumed by the Italian Kandy washing machine with a maximum load of 3 kg does not exceed 1300 W (the maximum power is consumed during the heating of water during the first 15-20 minutes of washing, and then drops to 250 W). Thus, the consumed current does not exceed 6 A, which is much less than it consumes Electric kettle 1.5 l.

Drum rotation speed when spinning clothes

For a full spin, 800 rpm is enough. At 1200 rpm, the laundry is wrung out almost dry. There are models that provide spin even at 2000 rpm. But the higher the turnover, the more expensive the purchase.

Set of laundry programs

Any machine has a minimum set of them, which provides high-quality washing of any products. If you find it difficult to master complex electronic control– choose a car with mechanical. As practice shows, only a few use all the available service functions, and their number significantly affects the cost of the machine.

If you are comfortable with computers, you should buy a car with an electronic control panel. In this case, the "Delay start" function will become available to you, which, in combination with the installed "day-night" electric meter, will save energy by programming the washing to start at a time of a cheaper rate.

Energy efficiency classes

The modern standard divides washing machines into seven energy classes - A, B, C and D. For clarity, the classes are assigned color coding.

A class A +++ washing machine consumes almost half as much electricity as class D. Obviously, it is better to buy a washing machine automatic consumption class A +.

Laundry loading method

Washing machines come with a vertical and horizontal way of loading clothes. Choose based on the installation location and personal preferences. The most popular washing machines with horizontal loading of linen.

Thus, when choosing a washing machine, you need to pay attention to just a few technical characteristics:

• Dimensions
• The weight of one load of dry laundry - 3-5 kg ​​is enough for a family
• Drum rotation speed - enough 800 rpm
• A set of laundry programs - standard
• Energy efficiency class - not lower than A
• How to load laundry - at your discretion
• The presence of the drying function - if necessary.

Based on these recommendations, I chose the Kandy washing machine. The model turned out to be very successful. For 21 years of constant operation, the washing machine failed 3 times: in the 15th year, the drum bearing “rattled”, in the 16th year, the pump (pump) and worn brushes in the drum electric motor had to be replaced (the machine began to spontaneously stop). Repairs were carried out at home. I changed the brushes and the pump myself, but a friend helped me to replace the bearing. It required a special bearing puller, which I did not have.

Washing machine installation instructions

To put the washing machine into operation after purchase, it must be unpacked, freed from transport bolts and connected to communications: water supply, sewerage and electricity. This work is usually performed by a plumber and an electrician. Connecting the washing machine is not so difficult task, as it seems at first glance, and with a minimum amount of knowledge, following the instructions below, home master you can do it yourself by yourself.

Release from transport bolts

The first thing to do before installing the washing machine is to unscrew the transport bolts that secure the drum to prevent damage during transportation. Usually the instructions indicate where they are located.

To reduce noise and vibration when squeezing clothes, the drum is mounted in the body of the washing machine on a spring suspension, and so that the drum does not hit the walls of the body during transportation, it is rigidly fixed with bolts, which must be unscrewed.

Connecting the washing machine to communications

To wash clothes, the washing machine must be connected to communications - water supply, sewerage and household electrical wiring.

Connection to the water supply network

In new homes, a tap is usually installed in the water supply network to connect the washing machine's water inlet hose to the water supply. There is no such crane in the houses of the old building. Therefore, the most simple option connection of the washing machine to the water supply network is the connection to the tee, to which the hose for supplying water to the toilet flush tank is connected.

There are two rubber hoses coming out of the washing machine. One of them, with union nuts at the ends with internal thread 3/4", is called an inlet hose and is designed to be connected to the water supply network. You can see it in the photo.

The fittings at the ends of the hose have different directions: one is angled, and the other is straight. The corner fitting is usually already bolted to the outlet of the washing machine at the factory. In the production of some models of washing machines, a coarse water strainer is installed, which must be cleaned if the water in the washing machine at a constant water pressure in the water supply system has begun to accumulate for a long time. The straight fitting is designed to be connected to a tap in the water supply network. In some models of washing machines, in the inlet hose, at the point of connection to the water supply, the Aquastop system is installed, which is solenoid valve, allowing the supply of water on command from the washing machine, only at the time of pouring water into the tank.

Marking and specifications inlet hose

The inlet hose, with the help of captive plastic nuts with an internal thread ¾", thanks to the winglets, is easily screwed by hand to the required tightening torque. The tightness of the connection is ensured by installing standard rubber gaskets with a thickness of about 3 mm.

Inlet hoses are available in lengths from 0.5 m to 5 m in length increments of 0.5 m. Washing machines are usually equipped with inlet hoses 1.5 m long. If the length of the inlet hose did not fit when installing the washing machine, you can replace it yourself with a suitable by lenght. It should be noted that the inlet hose should not be stretched with a string, since the washing machine vibrates during washing and a tightly stretched inlet hose may fail prematurely.

Both when connecting the inlet hose to the water supply network, and when choosing to replace a new one, it is necessary to pay attention to the markings applied to the surface of the hose.

Reliable operation of the inlet hose is determined by only two technical characteristics: operating pressure and allowable temperature poured water. They are applied when marking on the surface of the hose. The first word in the marking "REFLEX" indicates the name of the manufacturer of the inlet hose. The inlet hose shown in the photo is designed for a maximum operating pressure in the water supply system of 10 bar (10 bar, from the Greek baros - gravity) and a water temperature not exceeding 25 ° C.

In Russia, pressure is usually expressed in atmospheres or kg / cm 2, and in Europe in bars. One atmosphere is approximately equal to one bar, and to be exact, then 1 atmosphere \u003d 1 kg / cm 2 \u003d 0.98 bar. According to requirements normative documentation, the pressure in the water supply network should be 4 atmospheres, but in reality its value, depending on the floor of the house, varies between 1-5 atmospheres. So the inlet hose, even taking into account possible water hammer, designed for a pressure of 10 bar, is quite suitable. The higher the number of bars written on the label on the inlet hose, the better.

If the washing machine is connected to a cold water supply network, then you don’t have to think about the temperature for which the inlet hose is designed. In the case of connection to a hot water supply network, the water temperature in which, according to SNiP 2.04.01-85, must be within 50-75 ° C, for an allowable operating temperature inlet hose should be taken into account. The marking must indicate a temperature of at least 75 ° C.

It should be noted that everything said about the inlet hose for the washing machine fully applies to the inlet hose for connecting the dishwasher. Inlet hoses for modern household washing machines and dishwashers are interchangeable.

Installation of an additional outlet from the water supply network

In the vast majority of cases, the washing machine is installed in the bathroom, less often in the toilet or in the kitchen. In any of these rooms, water pipes are laid to supply water to the toilet bowl drain tank and sink taps. The photo shows classic way installation of a tap in the water supply for water intake.

Water in plumbing fixtures is usually supplied using flexible hose, which is attached to the water pipe using a union nut (American). The organization of water intake from a water pipe is shown in the photo above. A tee is cut into the pipe with two holes on the same axis with an internal ½ "thread, into which water pipes are screwed, and one perpendicular hole with an external ½" thread, to which a flexible hose or other fitting is attached.

The inlet hose, both washing machine and dishwasher, in without fail connected to the water supply through a shut-off valve. The crane is necessary to be able to move the product, for example, in case of repair. It is also recommended to turn off the tap if the washing machine or dishwasher is rarely used. The corner faucet, as in the photo, is the most widely used for connecting washing machines.

A distinctive feature of this faucet is that the thread on the faucet is ½" on the water supply side, and ¾" on the water outlet side. This is due to the standard for the thread of the inlet hose union nut.

Connecting the inlet hose to the faucet is simple - just screw the union nut onto it by hand, not forgetting to lay the rubber gasket. Usually there is a gasket in the inlet hose kit.

In addition to the tap, you will also need a tee and, depending on what internal and external threads it has, one or two couplings. Typically, an apartment water supply network is laid with pipes with a diameter of ½", therefore, all fittings must have a ½" thread.

Of the tools and materials you will need: an adjustable wrench, a pipe lever wrench and some flax or FUM fluoroplastic tape. True, I do not like the tape, since in 50% of cases it is not possible to get a tight connection the first time, I have to redo it. With flax, everything works the first time. It should not be forgotten that any sealant should be wound in the direction of the thread - if you look at the pipe opening, then clockwise.

Before finally installing the fittings and faucets on the plumbing network, it is advisable to assemble the entire structure without gaskets to make sure everything fits and is easily screwed on.

After assembling all the fittings, you should get a design similar to the one shown in the photo. In the case of organizing water intake at the point of connection of the flexible hose of the sink mixer, proceed in a similar way. As you can see, there is nothing complicated when you independently connect a washing machine or dishwasher to the water supply network, and a home master can do such work.

Service life of flexible water hoses

Filling the neighbors on the floor below is an unaffordable luxury. Unfortunately, it is impossible to say for sure about the period of reliable operation of a flexible hose. The warranty obligations of sellers of any flexible hoses, regardless of the manufacturer, usually do not exceed one year. The manufacturer's warranty, depending on the company, ranges from one to ten years.

The inlet hose that came with the Kandy washing machine was a long-liver (see photo above). He served 19 years, at the time of replacement remained serviceable and was replaced for preventive purposes. It should be noted that all this time the hose was under water pressure, since the tap did not close between washings. Five more flexible hoses are in operation in the apartment: at the drain tank and on two mixers. They have already worked for more than 13 years, and the external examination did not reveal any changes. appearance flexible hoses.

Relying on the personal experience, I believe that the period of reliable operation of high-quality flexible hoses for the water supply network is at least 10 years, and there is no need to change them earlier for the purpose of prevention, if no defects appear.

Connecting the washing machine to the sewer network

Connecting a washing machine or dishwasher to the sewer is no less a responsible matter than connecting the machine to the water supply network, and it requires the home master to follow simple rules.

In addition to the inlet hose, another flexible hose comes out of the back of the washing machine, called the drain hose. It serves to drain waste water after washing into the sewer. As you can see in the photo, it is corrugated, and therefore bends well.

Typically, the washing machine is equipped with a drain hose 2.2 m long. Drain hoses are commercially available from 1 to 4 m long. So, if necessary, you can replace the standard drain hose with a longer or shorter hose or increase it. It should be noted that the shorter the drain hose, the lower the load on the pump and, accordingly, the longer the life of the pump.

Manufacturers do not recommend making a drain hose longer than 4 m. This recommendation can be circumvented by extending the drain hose with a larger diameter tube through an adapter. You can use an inch plastic pipe for plumbing. Length drain hose measured from the exit point of the washing machine or dishwasher to the end of the washing machine, including all bends.

Depending on the model of the washing machine, the drain hose may exit from the bottom or top of the back of the washing machine. If the hose comes out of the bottom, then you must definitely raise it to the height of the washing machine up. The fastening scheme in clips specially installed on the wall is usually given in the operating instructions for the washing machine. If you do not make a loop, then the water, when filling the tank of the washing machine, will freely drain into the sewer, and the tank will never be filled to the required level.

Draining water from the washing machine can be organized in two ways: by lowering the end of the drain hose into the toilet, bathtub or sink, or by connecting it permanently to sewer network. Since the water is pumped out of the washing machine under high pressure, when simple plum you need to take care of fixing the hose so that it does not jump out and cause a flood.

There are two options for stationary connection of the drain hose of the washing machine to the sewer: 1) connection to the sink or sink siphon; 2) direct insertion into the sewer pipe.

Connecting the washing machine drain hose to the sink siphon

Connecting the drain hose to the sink siphon is the easiest connection, since in most cases the washing machine is installed in the bathroom, shower room or kitchen, where there is a sink nearby.

To connect, you just need to replace the regular sink siphon with a special one, with a branch for connecting a drain hose. This method of connection is within the power of any home master, even without plumbing skills.

The siphon shown in the photo has a pipe on the right side, on which a drain hose is put on. On the left side, a tube is connected to the sewer. On sale there are special inserts with a tap that can be installed in a standard siphon.

When I first installed the washing machine, there were no such siphons, and I just took aluminum tube of a suitable diameter with an external thread, drilled a hole in the upper tube of the siphon and, using two nuts, fixed the aluminum outlet to the siphon through rubber gaskets. For many years, a homemade drain has served reliably. To prevent the hose from slipping off the mixer nozzle, it is imperative to secure the hose with a hose clamp for hoses with a diameter of 24-40 mm.

The disadvantage of this method of draining water is the possible appearance of water in the sink during draining. But the ease of connection, the exclusion of the possible gravity flow of water during its filling and guaranteed absence possible smell from the sewerage compensate for this disadvantage. So if there is a sink near the place where the washing machine or dishwasher is installed, then I recommend draining dirty water organize through a siphon.

Drain hose connection
directly to the sewer pipe

If, in the situation of connecting the drain hose to the siphon, you do not like the possibility of water appearing in the sink, and if there is a free outlet from the sewer pipe next to the washing machine, then you can arrange for the water to drain directly into the sewer.

To seal the connection point of the drain hose, there are special rubber seal adapters called cuffs. The photo shows an example of connecting a pipe coming from a sink or sink siphon to the sewer. The drain hose is connected in the same way, only a cuff is used, for example, with a size of 25 × 50 mm. To facilitate installation, it is necessary to soap the mating surfaces of the cuff with soap. Unacceptable in this case use machine oil, as it corrodes rubber.

Since I installed the washing machine in the toilet room above the toilet, where there was no sink nearby and the possibility of draining water directly into the sewer pipe, I had to use the sewer pipe coming from the toilet bowl.

When installing the toilet bowl, I drilled a hole in the bend of the outlet pipe, inserted a ½ "piece of stainless steel into it, fastened it with two nuts through rubber gaskets, put the drain pipe of the washing machine on it and secured it with a clamp.

In the case of an already mounted toilet bowl, it is quite possible to drill a hole in the bend, clean the inner surface of the hole through the resulting hole with a rag soaked in solvent, cut a thread in it, generously lubricate with silicone and twist the tube section. It is only necessary not to drain the water for several hours until the silicone hardens.

If the bend pipe is polypropylene, then it is possible to drilled hole insert a piece of plastic tube and melt the joint with a soldering iron. Since there is practically no water pressure at the junction of the pipes, the connection will turn out to be quite reliable.

There is an opinion that connecting a drain hose to a sewer pipe directly, without a water seal, is illiterate, because. as a result, the smell from the sewerage can penetrate into the room, and gravity water may also occur during the filling of the tank. In older models of washing machines, the manifestation of such phenomena is quite possible.

In modern washing machines at the bottom of the front panel there is a flap valve, behind which is the drain pump filter. Thus, from the tank inside the machine, the drain hose first goes to the filter, then along the bottom of the machine to the rear wall and then inside or outside it rises to the height of the machine and only then goes down. After the drain pump stops working, the water in the vertical section drain hose, returns back to the horizontal section, thereby providing a hydraulic seal for odors from the sewer.

The occurrence of gravity water in modern ones is also excluded, since water from the water supply system will not begin to flow into the tank until the pump pumps out the waste water.

But even if you find the disadvantages of direct connection of the drain hose to the sewer described above, they can be easily eliminated after the connection work is completed.

It is enough, if the length of the hose allows, to twist a ring with a diameter of about 30 cm from it and pull it off, as shown in the photo. This is where the water seal comes in. If the drain hose turns out to be short, then it can be extended even with a hose of a larger diameter, it will only be better.

Connecting the washing machine to the mains

The power consumption of washing machines, depending on the model, ranges from 1000 to 4000 watts. Therefore, before starting work on connecting the washing machine to the electrical wiring, you need to find out from the passport what maximum power it consumes. Often, the power consumption is indicated on the packaging or on a label affixed to the back of the machine.

When connecting the machine to the mains, please note that the washing machine does not consume the maximum current during the entire washing time, but only during the time of heating water and drying clothes (if there is such a function). Depending on the set heating temperature, this time ranges from 0 to 30 minutes. For example, if the temperature of the water in the water supply is 20 ° C, and the set temperature is 30 ° C, then the heating time will be no more than 10 minutes. If the washing machine has the function of drying clothes, then at the end of the wash, the power consumption will again become maximum, since the heater is turned on to heat the air.

New wiring is laid in the apartment according to the standard wiring diagram, and in this case, as a rule, the question of connecting the washing machine to the electrical network does not arise. The question may arise if the length of the washing machine wire is insufficient. There are two ways to solve the problem: use an extension cord or transfer electrical outlet closer to the washing machine.

If the electrical wiring in the apartment is old, then before buying a washing machine, it is necessary to determine how much power the existing wiring can withstand. As a rule, in old-built houses, all electrical wiring was laid with a wire of the same section, therefore, to determine its load capacity, it is necessary to open any electrical outlet or switch, measure the diameter of the core of a suitable wire and determine by color what metal it is made of: copper (gold color) or aluminum (silver color).

Now, knowing the technical characteristics of the apartment wiring, from the tables below you can find out what power a dishwasher or washing machine (and any other electrical appliance) can be connected to it without overloading.

I draw your attention to the fact that the tables are only intended to determine the maximum load capacity of the existing electrical wiring. When laying new electrical wiring, you should be guided by the data from the table on the page "Selecting the wire size for electrical wiring".

If the wiring is able to withstand the load of the selected model of the washing machine (most likely you will get such a result), then you should check the quality of the twists in the junction boxes, from which the electrical outlet for connecting the washing machine is powered, and the outlet itself.

Old Soviet sockets are designed for a current of 6 A and C5 plugs with a pin diameter of 4 mm. They are not suitable for connecting C6 Euro plugs with round pins with a diameter of 4.8 mm. Therefore, if a Soviet-made socket is installed, it will need to be replaced.

Connecting the washing machine to the mains through the RCD

And another very important issue is the grounding of the washing machine body. In old electrical wiring, the earth wire was not laid. Not everyone dares to pull the ground wire from an electric meter or even from a switchboard installed in the entrance, although this is exactly what is supposed to be done according to the requirements of the PUE. I connected all my wires in junction boxes by soldering, and I am 100% sure of their reliability, so I simply connected the ground terminal in a socket with a neutral wire.

Although this PUE is not allowed, in this case I consider this an acceptable violation, since the first class of protection is provided in the washing machine (there is double insulation), its control panel, handles and buttons are made of plastic, the floor does not conduct current, and the machine can be opened impossible until you turn it off.

In the absence of a ground wire in the wiring, a portable residual current device (RCD) can be used. Thus, you will not violate PUE requirements when connecting a washing machine, and you do not have to pull the ground wire from the shield. Portable RCDs for everyday life are of two types: in the form of an adapter and in the form of an electrical plug.

In the photo on the left side there is an RCD adapter that is inserted into an electrical outlet, then a washing machine plug is inserted into this adapter. On the right side of the photo is an RCD plug. To use the RCD plug, you must first cut off the standard plug of the washing machine wire and connect this wire to the RCD.

For a washing machine of any model, a portable RCD of any type is suitable, rated for a rated current of 16 A and a rated differential breaking current of 30 mA.

The use of water softeners
to prevent scale

I am surprised by a video on TV that frightens housewives by flooding an apartment due to a failed tubular heating element (TEN) as a result of scale coating. Physically, this cannot be. The heater fails due to overheating, as scale impairs heat dissipation. As a result nichrome spiral melts, the circuit opens, and the heating element stops heating the water. The failure of the heating element cannot violate the tightness of the tank of the machine; in the worst case, the machine will simply stop working.

To check the performance of the heater, it is enough to set the temperature with the regulator lower than the temperature of the water in the water supply. Then the machine should work. If it works, then the heater is definitely out of order, and you need to change it. Temporarily, you can continue to use the machine, but it will be possible to wash only in cold water.

About the use of emollients. Numerous conversations with washing machine repairmen allowed me to draw an unambiguous conclusion - the uncontrolled use of all kinds of softeners does more harm than good. It's better not to use anything since any water softener contains a weak acid that corrodes tank parts.

The decision on the need to use emollients can be made by looking into the electric kettle. If its heater or bottom (in the absence of an external heater in the kettle) is covered with a thick white layer of scale, then the water in the water supply is hard, and emollients must be used.

Reading time ≈ 5 minutes

Electricity, plumbing and sewage - for the normal operation of equipment, the washing machine must be correctly connected to each of these three networks. Some of the work you can do yourself, others - entrust professionals.

It is quite possible to connect the washing machine to the sewerage, electricity and water supply with your own hands. Watch the video of the process on our website, and most activities you can do on your own.

Choosing a location for the washing machine

Before connecting the washing machine, decide on the best place her installation. Optimal options:

• Kitchen;
• Bathroom;
• Toilet;
• Any other room, for example, a pantry. But subject to the possibility of conducting electricity, sewage and plumbing systems there.

Equipment preparation

To ensure that the washing machine does not fail immediately after connection, remove bolts and other fasteners for transportation from it in advance. For example, for the safety of delivery, the equipment drum is bolted. In working condition, you will see only springs on it.

Unscrew the bolts from the back of the equipment, cover the holes with plastic plugs. Make sure that there are no defects on the intake and drain hose (kinks, holes, etc.).

To begin with, we will learn how to connect the drain of the washing machine to sewer system. There are several options:

1. During normal operation of communications, through the siphon of the kitchen sink or bathroom. At a height of 70-80 cm from the floor, fix the drain hose using a special clamp (located on the back of the unit body). Insert into the siphon and fasten the hose end onto the mounting nuts.

Important! Siphon installation - the best choice for connecting equipment to the sewer system. He won't miss unpleasant odors and sewer water back into the car.

In the presence of check valve on the drain of the unit, you can choose both this and the following option.

2. Inserting a pipe through an adapter. block access sewer water into the system. Using a core drill, drill a hole in the pipe with a drill required dimensions. Put the adapter on the pipe, tighten using bolts or clamps.

If you will not install the machine immediately after tie-in, cover the outlet with a plug. A sealing cuff is required to connect the drain hose. If you still have questions, the washing machine connection diagram will tell you the correct sequence of events.

Water connection

You can also connect the washing machine to the water supply yourself. Moreover, everything is usually supplied with the equipment. necessary elements: no additional purchase of fittings or flexible hose is required. But sometimes the hose is not long enough, and then you can:

• Choose a fixed installation;
• Use a longer rubber hose, simply by buying it from the store.

In the latter case, connecting the washing machine to the plumbing system involves connecting the nozzle on the equipment to the water intake point through a new hose. Each side of the hose has rubber seal. The main points of the procedure are as follows:

• Do not lay the rubber tube where it can be mechanically damaged;
• Do not stress the element. Otherwise, the vibrating machine may deform the hose;
• Make sure the connections are tight and secure.

How to connect a washing machine permanently? The process is similar to the above, but requires the use of polypropylene or metal pipes.

Important! If you use steel pipe, rust particles can clog important parts of the equipment in the future. If possible, buy a plastic pipe.

Once again, we note that it is worth resorting to the stationary method of connecting to the water supply only if it is impossible to use a flexible hose.

Important connection points:

• In order to stop the water supply in the future, use a ball valve to connect;
• To protect internal components from blockages, use small filter rough cleaning. It should be installed before entering the machine;
• To connect water, use a tee of the main pipeline or ready-made bends.

Electrical connection

If you have not worked with electricity before, seek professional help. The cost of professional services is low. On the other hand, if you incorrectly connect the unit to electricity, the consequences can be very sad.

If you are also going to do this work personally, please note:

• The switchboard must be grounded. Since in most cases the machine is installed in rooms where avoid high humidity impossible. The minimum tire size is 3 mm. You can use a three-wire socket;
• If the unit is located in the kitchen, connect it to the stove socket - this is more convenient;
• The extension cord (if necessary, in its use) must have grounding contacts. If possible, connect structures using a separate wire coming from the meter that fixes the circuit breaker. In the absence of a separate wire, purchase a portable RCD.

Important! Refuse to experiment, and connect the ground to the gas pipeline and / or heating equipment. Otherwise, you risk not only the safety of equipment, but also your own health.

Final stage

After you connect all communications, conduct a “test drive” of the equipment. Carefully monitor not only the operation of the machine, but also whether it makes any extraneous sounds, whether it leaks, or whether it vibrates too much. Did you notice violations? Contact the professionals, they will be able to find and fix problems.

Video: how to connect a washing machine yourself

Provide high level comfort in the residential sector without the use of modern electrical appliances is almost impossible. That is why air conditioners, water heaters, convectors, dishwashers and other household items are increasingly becoming part of everyday life.

However, perhaps the most popular type household appliances considered a washing machine. This is due to certain advantages when using it:

• Minimization of manual labor;
• A wide range of operations performed;
• Ability to integrate into a highly intelligent home control system;
• Flawless appearance.

Regarding the choice of technology for home use it is necessary to build on personal preferences, financial capabilities and individual characteristics of the object. However, after acquiring the desired assistant, many consumers are interested in how to hook up a washing machine and is it even possible to do so. In order to dispel all doubts, this material is presented.

The main stages of connecting a washing machine on your own can be divided into several types.

Preparing the washing machine for installation

So, after the washing machine is purchased and delivered to its destination, a number of preparatory operations are required. Firstly, for this you should decide on the place of the intended installation of the equipment. And although, in principle, any room can be used as such a place, a washing machine is more often placed in places of economic purpose (bathroom, kitchen, corridor, pantry).

When choosing the location of the washing machine, the following features must be taken into account:

1. The proximity of the laying of engineering communications (water supply, sewerage, power supply) necessary to connect the device;
2. Aesthetic component;
3. The presence of a flat (preferably reinforced concrete) surface of the base of the floor;
4. Optimum placement in terms of operation.

second step preparatory phase dismantling of transport parts is considered. This procedure should be Special attention, because the operation of the machine with these nodes will certainly lead to the failure of the washing machine. Usually, bolts, brackets, wooden bars- all these elements must be completely dismantled.

It is advisable to carry out this stage after reading the instruction manual, which describes such a procedure in more detail.

Thirdly, at the preparation stage, you should take care of the quality of the floor base at the place of the intended installation of the product. A number of requirements must be met here:

• The base must have a solid structure;
• The horizontal surface must be ensured;
• The base material must be resistant to aggressive operating conditions.

If these criteria are not met, measures should be taken to facilitate the fulfillment of the listed requirements. So, for these purposes, a cement-sand screed can be laid on the floor surface, at the intended installation site of the equipment, or the existing floor base can be strengthened (if necessary).

As the main materials for self-connecting the washing machine, it is recommended to stock up on the following components.

Installation of a washing machine: a complete description of the process

After all the preparatory procedures are completed, you can proceed with the installation of the washing machine. To do this, it is advisable to use a building level or a plumb line. The machine must be set strictly horizontally (checked by the top cover), and the maximum allowable deviation angle should not exceed 2º.

The horizontal position of the washing machine should only be adjusted by screwing in or unscrewing the support legs of the appliance. Adjust by placing under the supports additional materials, is strictly prohibited, as they can pop out during operation. The only acceptable option in this regard is the use of a thin rubber mat. It is necessary if the machine is installed on a sliding surface (tile).

After the body of the machine is perfectly exposed, the support legs are mechanically fixed by tightening the locknut counterclockwise.

In order for the washing machine to serve with maximum efficiency, the process of its installation should be given special attention. Therefore, before connecting a washing machine with your own hands, it is very important to consider the following factors:

• The machine will stand more stable when the adjustable feet are screwed in as much as possible (this circumstance may be acceptable with an ideal base floor surface);
• When installed on an inclined floor, fixing elements can be used to fasten the supporting structures;
• Checking the correct installation of the washing machine can be done by swinging it diagonally. In most cases, there should be no free play. If it is available (depending on the rigidity of the washing machine body), then its amplitude should be the same for different diagonals.

Connecting the washing machine to the water supply

Before connecting the washing machine to the water supply, it should be noted that this procedure is very responsible and therefore it must be taken quite seriously. To make such connections, a water hose with appropriate fittings is usually supplied with the washer, but quite often its length is not enough to connect the washing machine in the right place. In view of this, the following methods of water supply are quite often used:

1. Using a rubber hose of a longer length (can be bought at specialized points);
2. Implementation of a fixed connection.

In the first variant, the task of the performer is only to connect finished product to the inlet of the washing machine and the water intake point. It is desirable to perform these procedures on the basis of certain recommendations.

Firstly, the water hose should be laid in a place that is least prone to mechanical damage (it can be placed under the bathroom or hidden by furniture elements). Secondly, you should not connect the hose to the tension, since during the operation of the washing machine it may deform due to the vibration of the device.

And, thirdly, we should not forget about the quality of the purchased accessory. After all, used in aggressive conditions, such a pipeline must provide a reliable and tight connection.

In the second case, water supply can be implemented by laying fixed communications. For these purposes, they can be used as metal pipes(copper) and plastic-based systems. Connect the washing machine to the water supply using ordinary steel pipes impractical, since this can cause clogging of the main components of the machine with suspended particles of rust that can form in the cavity of such pipelines.

As in the first case, the system must provide high tightness and prevent leakage. At the same time, it should be noted that it is still not worth it to directly connect stationary pipelines (especially metal ones) to the inlet pipe of the washing machine (due to the occurrence of vibration). The best option will use a flexible hose-adapter.

In both the first and second options, when connecting the washing machine to the water supply line, it is desirable to ensure that the following conditions are met:

• Make connections using shut-off valves ( ball valve), which allows you to disable the consumer if necessary;
• Before entering the washing machine, install special mechanical or magnetic filter systems that allow the water to be purified from pollutants to be supplied to the unit;
• As water supply points, use either ready-made outlets (to a mixer or flush tank), connecting pipelines through tees, or pre-mount individual liquid intake points (pipes, spurs).

Installation of a washing machine to the sewer

Despite the seeming simplicity of the operations, it is not easy to connect the washing machine to the sewer on your own. This is due to some physical features of such a scheme.

The drain can be connected in two ways:

1. According to the temporary scheme (by fixing the drain hose to the sides of the bathroom or washbasin);
2. Method of stationary connection to the sewerage system.

And if in the first case the connection is limited to the standard connection of the drain hose to the outlet pipe, then the second option requires more significant labor input.

One of my friends complained that her washer goes into recursion at the rinsing stage: it pours water, then drains it, pours it again, and so on ad infinitum.

Began to understand. It turned out that the drain of the washing machine was not installed correctly. The drain hose was simply connected to the sewer tee right at the level where it passes sewage pipe, i.e. almost at floor level.

Looking ahead, I will say that this was precisely the cause of the malfunction.

The washing machine, by the way, is cool - LG F1296ND. Just a year ago it was a top model with a bunch of great reviews. But, as you can see, even for her, the way to connect the drain turned out to be critical.

The fact is that, according to the instructions, end of drain hose should be at a level of 60-100 cm from the surface on which the machine stands with its legs. It's the end. In the instructions it is directly drawn (who else would read it, right?). And it doesn't matter whether the middle of the hose is raised to this height or not - the height of only the place where the water flows from is important, i.e. the very tip.

Moreover, please note that the pipe to which the drain is connected must necessarily be of a larger diameter than the drain hose. This is necessary in order for the so-called. jet break. It turns out that inside the pipe the jet flowing out of the drain hose is, for some time, in free flight in the airspace of the sewer pipe.

General connection diagram of the washing machine

The main rule: strict adherence to the manufacturer's instructions. It was not written by fools.

The easiest way to show in the picture - you should end up with something like this:

In my case, the top point of the drain hose was at a height of ~ 74 cm, which is within acceptable limits:

So, with how to properly connect the washing machine to the sewer and water supply, we seem to have figured it out. The next important step:

Electrical connection

Here you need to follow a few simple rules:

1. Look in the instructions for the maximum power consumption of the machine and make sure that the el. the network of your apartment is designed for this. In our case, max. power is 1700 W:

which means the current consumption is about 8A.

In other words, you need to make sure that the socket is connected copper wire the cross section of each conductor is at least 1 sq. mm (if aluminum, then 1.5 sq. mm).

2. You can only turn on the washer in a socket with grounding contacts!
First, it is for your own safety. Secondly, if you connect the washing machine to electricity without grounding, then any malfunction will be considered a non-warranty case.

If your apartment does not have grounding, then as a last resort, install at least a residual current device () at 30 mA. You can’t rely on RCDs alone, but it’s better than nothing.

3. After washing, the machine is de-energized by pulling the plug out of the socket. And by the way, you still need to turn off the supply valve cold water- this is stated in the instructions.

It remains to make sure that this entire unit is as stable as possible and that it does not sausage during the spin cycle. Now I'll show you how I did it.

Proper installation of the washing machine

So, we open the instructions again: the machine must be installed on a solid, stable base. Thus, no thick rubber mats, no slipping boards or plywood! In this regard, I was lucky and the hostess in the kitchen had excellent floors - a cement-sand screed covered with linoleum. Moreover, linoleum, as expected, was glued over the entire area.

Installation consists in leveling the machine using the adjustable feet. Then she will stop jumping on the floor and begin to function normally. Everything is done by yourself with your own hands, but you will need to find a normal building level. In no case do not take a level at the nearest grocery store for change from cigarettes!

The machine was supposed to come with a special key for adjusting the legs, but naturally it was touched somewhere. Therefore, I prepared two open-end wrenches for 17:

We put the level right on top of the washing machine and with keys 17, either unscrew the legs or, conversely, twist:

We strive to ensure that the level shows a strictly horizontal surface in both directions - along and across. Valeria said that everything is OK, so we leave it like that:

Proper installation (by level) is almost guaranteed to save you from increased vibration and loud knocks during the spin cycle. Of course, if there is only one massive rag inside the drum, then nothing will help here. The machine simply will not be able to evenly distribute it throughout the drum and vibration cannot be avoided. Miracles don't happen.

As a test, we decided to immediately wash a few little things: three large towels, a couple of T-shirts and some other women's small things.

In the video, you can see that a slight vibration appears for a short time only at certain drum speeds (a resonance phenomenon occurs), after which it disappears. Washing machine stands as if rooted to the spot. We even used a jar of compote for clarity:

Well, now you also know how you can independently (and most importantly correctly!) Connect washing machine even in a tiny kitchen like this one.

And all that remains for me is to return the sink to its place and let the grateful hostess feed herself with delicious borscht!

Finally, your dream came true - appeared in the house. Washing will now turn into a pleasure! But before this happens, you need to install and connect the washing unit. You can do it yourself, it is not necessary to invite specialists.

First of all, carefully read the instructions for your washing machine. Unpack it and remove the seals located on the sides of the machine (if any). Then carefully look for scratches or any defects on the car, and also check the package. And if everything is in order, you can install the washing machine in a permanent place. For successful work machines need to be connected to electricity, water supply and sewerage system.

Installation and connection of the washing machine

Once again check the strength of all joints and joints. You can turn on the water and open the faucet that passes water into the machine. And now it's time to start the test wash. To do this, select a program that is minimal in time, and select the maximum temperature (this is required to remove grease residues from the machine). Carefully monitor the process: are there any leaks anywhere, is the body of the machine “pinching” with electricity, is it “jumping”. And if you had the correct installation of the washing machine, then the washing will be successful.