Integration of the hob into the worktop. Hob installation: subtleties and nuances

This step-by-step instruction on how to cut a hole in the countertop from chipboard or mdf under the hob with your own hands. When you probably need to know how to cut holes in chipboard or MDF countertops if you are installing a sink or hob. This task may seem simple, but we can assure you that there are many nuances that need to be considered for a good result.

On the one hand, you must closely follow the contour of the gas stove using a template or follow the instructions indicated on the product. In most cases, there are certain restrictions that you must pay attention to, for example minimum distance from the plate to the back or both sides, k. Use a large L-shaped square to draw a rectangle on your desktop, otherwise the corners will not be right angles.

To get an accurate hole, you must use a good saw with the correct blade. Therefore, the blade must have teeth oriented downwards, otherwise it will split the surface. Drill starting holes along the four corners of the rectangle using a drill or (the hole should be wider than the size of the jigsaw blade).

Work plan for installing the hob in the worktop

Materials:

• countertop;
• carpenter's pencil;
• insulating tape.

Tools:

1. Protective gloves, goggles;
2. Saw or jigsaw;
3. Roulette, level, square;
4. C-clamps.

• Wear safety glasses when making incisions.
• Choose a blade with fine teeth.

Deadline

• 10 minutes

When installing hob gas stove or you have to cut holes in the countertop.

Tip: follow the manufacturer's instructions when cutting a hole in your kitchen countertop if you want to prevent possible problems..

How to cut a hole in a worktop for a hob

Marking guide lines

The first step is to define the contour of the slab. In most cases, it should contain instructions on how to do this, but there is a technique in which only the recommended hole sizes are indicated. Place the hob on top of the cabinets. Leave the recommended distance from the back panel to the front edge of the table top.

Draw a median on the countertop and mark the incision lines using the manufacturer's instructions.

Marking the countertop for the hole for the plate

As you can see in the picture, you need an L-shaped square, tape measure, and a carpenter's pencil to get the job done professionally. Make sure the cut lines are parallel and at right angles. In addition, the rectangle must be symmetrical.

Tip: Check if the rectangle is positioned correctly underneath kitchen cabinet in which the cooker hood will be built and there is sufficient space around it (in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions).

Installing spacers under the countertop

To get an accurate result, you must place some spacers under the countertop. However, the table top should be flat.

You should leave about 5 centimeters free space between the cabinets and the worktop, otherwise the saw blade may damage them.

Making initial holes for drilling

Use a drill with a special drill bit to create starting holes along the corners. It is very important to align the bits correctly, otherwise you might drill out of the contour.

Tip: Make sure you use good equipment for drilling with speed control. Install the drill on low speeds and hold the drill with both hands if you want to have good control over it. Repeat the process for each corner of the rectangle.

Passage of the laminated layer

In this image, you should notice that the drill is going through upper layer... Do not apply too much pressure on the drilling equipment, otherwise it may slip out of place.

We remove the remains from the process with a vacuum cleaner

Drilling a hole in the countertop with a drill will create a lot of residue, so we recommend that you ask someone to remove them as you are making the hole.

Tip: Work with great care and attention, as it is important to make the holes exactly in the indicated places.

Cutting holes in the worktop

After drilling the corner starting holes, the cuts must be made along the guide lines. If you are not experienced in this area, you should cover the cut lines with masking tape. In this way, you will help prevent edge chopping.

Cutting a hole with a jigsaw in a worktop

We recommend that you use a jigsaw to make cuts. Choose a blade with downward-facing teeth. In addition, the blade must have parted teeth. If you have not worked with a jigsaw before, we recommend that you secure the tabletop. Make sure the blade runs exactly along the cut lines.

Tip: Remove the shavings that form frequently, otherwise they may cover the lines. Set the jigsaw at low speeds.

Finished hole in the countertop for the stove

Last but not least, you need to take care of installing the hob in the countertop with your own hands. If you've followed our advice and read the manufacturer's instructions, the hob should fit easily into the hole. However, if the edges are not completely straight, you can smooth them with silicone or sealant.

Tip: Use sandpaper to smooth cutting edges.

Installing the hob into the worktop

After that, you just have to install the hob in the countertop, connect it and fix it using the self-tapping screws that should come with it.

Thank you for reading our step by step recommendation how to cut a hole in the countertop and install the hob with your own hands, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with other articles. Don't forget to share our designs with your friends using social media widgets.

When connected hob you may encounter problems that make you think not only of an ordinary user, but also of an experienced electrician:

• which cable to choose for wiring from the panel to the hob

• which machine to connect the panel in the switchboard

• how to connect the 4 wires coming out of the plate and 3 wires of the power cable of the electrical wiring

• how to connect correctly and not to confuse the cable cores on the terminal block

Wiring cable for connection

First of all, understand for yourself that the hob must be connected with a separate wiring line directly from the switchboard. It is not allowed to power it from an existing common junction box in the kitchen or from pre-installed sockets.

The cable must be necessarily three-core and copper, and which brand VVGnG-Ls or NYM is up to you. Which cable is better and how they differ can be read in detail in the article "4 differences between NYM and VVGnG-Ls".

The most important thing is to choose the right cross-section. The code of rules SP31-110-2003 compiled on the basis of GOST and PUE states that for slabs it is necessary to choose a cross-section of at least 6mm2.

But apparently here we are talking about pre-assembly wiring in the apartment, when it is not yet known what power the hob will be installed. Therefore, initially a cross-section of 6mm2 should be laid, sufficient to connect most of the existing models.

If your power is less than 7 kW, and you are sure that you will not buy a new, more energy-intensive stove in the future, then you can navigate according to the following table:

And what to do if the cable has already been laid (VVGng-Ls 3 * 2.5mm2), but it turned out to be of a smaller section than is needed for the maximum possible power of the hob (7.2 kW). At the same time, there is neither the possibility nor the desire to re-gash the walls.

In this case, you can protect yourself in two ways, although you have to accept the fact that you will not be able to use all the power of the panel:

• install a switch in the panel based on the nominal cable cross-section, and not the power of the plate (see the table above, according to the cross-section)

• programmatically set the operating mode of the panel, in which it will not be possible to turn on all the burners at the same time

That is, if you do not yet know what kind of hob you will have, feel free to lay 6mm2. Just keep in mind that low-power panels have small terminal blocks, not designed for 6mm2. And correctly, it is not always convenient to directly connect such a wire, you can break the clamp.

Connecting an induction hob in a flap

A prerequisite for installing the hob and oven- this is the connection of these devices through an RCD + an automatic device, or a differential automatic device with a leakage current of 30mA.

Simple circuit breakers will not be able to provide protection in the event of insulation damage and leakage to the case.

• Zero core (choose a wire of blue color) - to the terminal below, marked with the Latin letter N

• Vein of yellow-green color ( protective earth) to the grounding bar

Hob socket and plug

If you do not intend to run the cable directly into the panel, then you will have to install a separate socket under it.

Using a plug over convenient option in terms of maintenance and operation of the hob.

For example with wet cleaning the panel must be de-energized. If you do not have an outlet, you will have to run to the dashboard twice and turn off the machine. And so he pulled out the plug, rubbed the surface and plugged it back in.

The socket must be installed on comfortable height... The recommended distance from the floor is up to 90cm.

In this case, it is not allowed that the socket box is on the same level with the hob. It is best to place it to the right or left of the instrument.

If you want to install an oven next to it, then the socket must be below the oven level. Usually this distance is at the level of the legs of the kitchen.

It is also impossible to do too close to the floor, keep in mind the likelihood of flooding and water supply leaks!

Which outlet to take? With a low-power panel up to 3.5 kW (usually two-burner), you can connect everything through a European socket and a corresponding plug.

However, it will constantly operate at its rated power of 16A and will most likely get very hot.

In addition, if you originally took a 3 * 6mm2 cable, then putting it on the plug contacts will be a big problem. Therefore, it is preferable to use special plug and a socket for plates, designed for currents up to 40A.

If you have induction hob with a power of more than 3.5 kW, then connecting through a regular plug and socket is all the more prohibited!

The location of the phase and neutral wires in the outlet does not play a significant role. The main thing is to correctly connect the grounding conductor (from above to the grounding contact).

But when connecting the plug, it is advisable to observe the "polarity". It is not for nothing that manufacturers mark the terminals on which the phase and zero should go. But even if you confuse the panel, it should still work properly.

You need a wire to connect the plug. It does not always come with the kit. In the absence of a standard one, it is necessary to purchase a three-core PVA wire. The wire cross-section must correspond to the power of the device (see the table above).

Disassemble the plug body, pass a wire through it. Remove the insulation from the outer shell to such a length that its edge, after assembling the plug, is pressed down with a special clamp.

Stripping the veins and to ensure better contact crimp with the NSHV tip.

Tighten the screw connectors of the plug:

A big inconvenience of such models is that they "stick out" from the wall very much - by 5-7cm.

Consider this point when assembling the kitchen in advance.

Panel connection without plug

If the socket protruding a few centimeters does not suit you and you want to neatly hide everything in a socket box or a junction box, then there are two ways to do this:

• through the GML sleeves

• through the KlK-5S junction box

First, let's define the wires. On many models, a connected cable already comes out of the panel, but it has 4 cores. And you have only three in the box. How to be?

The fact is that such hobs are simultaneously designed for both a single-phase 220V connection and a two-phase 380V. In this case, one half of the burners will operate from one phase of 220V, and the other from the second.

Some people think that the second phase is used only for control supply. This is not true. Power is distributed evenly across both phases. To connect the whole thing to the usual 220 Volts, simply remove one core to the side and isolate it.

Remains zero (usually blue wire), ground (yellow-green) and phase (brown, black or other colors).

It is possible to combine two phase conductors into one through a ferrule. For example, in many Bosch panels, where the cable is not removable, this was originally done.

There is also a variant with a 5-core cable. Such panels are usually of high power from 7 kW and above. They are originally designed for 380V. To connect them to the 220V network, you need to connect two wires in pairs.

For example, put the black and brown wires on the phase, and the blue and gray wires to zero. The ground yellow-green remains solitary.

But if you strictly follow the rules, then such a connection is not entirely correct. Since the protective PE conductor must be of the same cross-section with the phase ones. And you will have it twice as thin.

Sleeve connection

Now you need to connect the wiring in the socket with the cable going to the panel. Select the GML sleeves corresponding to the cross-section of the veins.

If the cross-sections of the cores are different, for example, 6mm2 come out of the wall, and 4mm2 goes to the panel, then on one side (smaller) the sleeve is sealed with an additional wire.

After that, the ends are pressed in with a press with pliers and insulated with electrical tape or thermotube.

Now all this can be neatly hidden in a socket box.

Connection via back box

The sleeve is inconvenient because, firstly, the connection is not collapsible, and secondly, a special tool is needed for crimping. Not everyone has a press available, and such connections cannot be squeezed with pliers.

In this case, will come to the rescue junction box KlK-5S. In addition to a screwdriver, nothing is needed here, and the outgoing cable can be disconnected at any time.

True, her contacts can be quite delicate, so do not overdo it with tightening force.

Besides, dimensions her, unlike powerful sockets, is small and the whole thing can be conveniently mounted behind kitchen cabinets.

The connection is performed traditionally:

• zero through screw terminal N (blue wires)

• the ground is marked with a "ground" icon - a yellow-green core

• on top there are three phase connectors. Extra phases, if you have a 220V drop and isolate.

Induction hob connection diagrams

After all the work has been done, you can proceed to the direct connection of the cable to the terminals of the hob. On the back of the panel there should be a sticker, picture or graphic designation of the factory wiring diagram.

For a single-phase network, choose a circuit that is most often referred to as 1N.

According to this scheme, terminals numbered 1,2,3 and terminals 4,5 must be connected with jumpers.

These copper or brass jumpers must be supplied with the hob. Usually they are located in a separate "pocket", in the same place as the terminals.

If you do not install these shunts, then only part of the hob will be heated.

Often, the same problem can arise during operation, when, due to poor contact and heating, one of the jumpers burns out.

Before connection, the insulation is removed from the PVA wire and the conductors are pressed. Here you can use tips NShV, NKI, NSHPI. Before installation, check if there is enough free space in the terminal box for mounting these or those terminals.

Sometimes you have to shorten them, or even abandon some kind.

Jumpers are installed first. According to the diagram for a single-phase hob, mount them on terminals 1-2-3.

After that, connect the phase conductor to terminal No. 3 and tighten the contacts.

To connect zero, mount a jumper between the fourth and fifth terminals.

Insert the zero core of blue into terminal No. 5 and tighten the contact.

The last free vein- connect the protective grounding to the socket marked with the "grounding" symbol.

Here are some connection diagrams for different models of Bosch, Electrolux, Zanussi, Hansa, Gorenje hobs:

If, after connecting, the panel starts to work in an incomprehensible way - it turns itself off, after a few seconds it can turn on again. Do not rush to sin on the wrong installation.

It is possible that the program has child protection, water spilled on the sensors, or accidentally pressed the wrong buttons. Some models have a cookware recognition function. Until you place a saucepan on the hotplate, it will not heat up.

Another common problem is that only two of the four burners work, and the rest show residual heat (the letter H is highlighted). This is due to blocking with single-phase connection of three-phase models.

Thus, the power is programmatically limited.

Therefore, first understand the documentation well and only then climb back into the connection terminal block.

Five common mistakes that can lead to the failure of your panel, or fire due to improper installation and connection:
1 Using a regular Euro socket and 16A plug for panels with a power of more than 3.5kW.

2 Connection via a simple circuit breaker with a thermal release, without an RCD or diff.automatic. 3 The use of a cable of a smaller cross-section for powerful hobs (3 * 2.5mm for 7kW). 4 Connecting the hob and oven to a common junction box in the kitchen without a dedicated line from the junction box. 5 Lack of a phase jumper on one of the terminals. As a result, half of the cooking zones may not work. Or the panel will not turn on at all if this contact was responsible for supplying voltage to the control.

In case it is necessary to save space in the kitchen, it makes no sense to install gas stove that takes up quite a lot of space. Moreover, not everyone uses the oven that comes with it, especially with the advent of a large number of microwaves and electric ovens at an affordable price. For the most part, the hob itself is used for cooking. There is no fundamental difference in the installation of gas and electric hobs, only some of the nuances that will be discussed later in the article.

Required tools, materials

To install the panel, you do not need any expensive and outlandish tools, or special courses. Everything is quite simple, any person who is more or less friendly with his hands can master the process. In the process of work you will need:

• roulette;
• a drill with a drill with a diameter of 8 mm or more to drill a couple of holes into which a jigsaw file will fit;
• electric jigsaw(you can also cut it by hand, but it will turn out longer and more tedious);
• sealant;
• special plasticine, self-adhesive sealant or aluminum tape.

This list includes accessories that will be needed unambiguously. Also, depending on the type of surface, other materials will be needed, for example, Teflon or tow for threading, terminals, electrical tape for contacts. The main thing is to get involved in the battle, and there it will be clear what else is needed.

Measurements

The easiest way to markup is to carefully trace the contours of the panel directly on the table top, ensuring an equal indent from its edges. You can go the other way:

• first transfer the contours of the shelf above which it is located to the countertop;
• find the center of the resulting rectangle, mark on the countertop with a cross and make it the middle of the contour under the slab;
• after measuring the dimensions of the slab with a tape measure, give an additional 5 millimeters of allowance on each side to the prepared hole, the marked cross is the point of intersection of the diagonals and the middle of the hole (it is advisable to make sure that the marking is accurate by drawing the diagonals in the image).

Pruning

To carry out washed down with a jigsaw, it is necessary to drill holes in the corners of the outlined contour with a drill so that the file goes into them freely. It is enough to make two holes located diagonally relative to each other. Two cuts are made from each hole according to the marking. Most clearly, such cuts are made by means of hand router, but not everyone has it, so a jigsaw is a more realistic option. Accurately, according to the markings, at medium speed, slowly lead the jigsaw clearly along the markings, making sure that it does not go to the side. It is highly recommended that you try to make a few cuts on some unnecessary bar.

An important nuance- some people advise doing markings and pruning on the back of the tabletop. The problem is that the laminate covering the front side can chip, and the board will not cover the chip. Therefore, easier markup do it with a marker on the front side, and drill and saw also with the front side up.

Installation and sealing

After the cut has been made, the edges of the slot are treated with silicone or other sealant to protect against moisture. Along the perimeter of the hole prepared in this way, a sealant, which is usually included with the plate, is glued from the upper side. Then the slab is inserted and aligned along the contour of the hole, after which the fasteners located on the back side are pressed. If the seal protrudes beyond the edges of the surface, carefully cut off its excess with a knife, being careful not to scratch the countertop.

Features of installing a gas and electrical panel

Important! According to the safety regulations when using gas appliances, it is FORBIDDEN to unauthorized connection of gas appliances, including hobs.

This provision is enshrined in current legislation. The connection is carried out, as a rule, by the employees of Gorgaz, for an appropriate remuneration. You can install the device yourself at your own peril and risk, but you should expect possible sanctions from the organization supplying the gas, up to turning it off and sealing the valve. All installations gas equipment must be carried out in agreement with the relevant organizations.

If, nevertheless, there is a desire to do the housework on your own, they act in the following sequence:

• through the squeegee or the union is connected flexible hose to the gas valve;
• a hole in the furniture for the hose is being prepared;
• the presence of jets for the main connection of the stove is checked, if they are not installed, it is necessary to install them;
• the gas inlet nut is connected to the stove, and always with sealing ring, a connection angle is usually included in the kit.

Checking for gas leaks is carried out by applying a soap solution to the joints. It should not bubble, if there are bubbles, this indicates a leak, as well as the presence of a characteristic gas smell.

The installation of an electric hob is carried out strictly according to the scheme given in the instructions. If experience with electrical appliances a little - you should not experiment, it is better to contact specialists. If the power supply is incorrectly connected, the device may malfunction, or it may fail, as well as the wiring in the apartment. The power supply is connected before installing the tiles in the socket prepared in the worktop.

Various models provide options for connecting the wire either to the outlet or directly to the electrical panel. Remember that electrical cooking stove consumes quite a large number of electricity, and ensure that the wiring meets the requirements for power consumption.

Modern kitchen sets allow you to independently install a gas, electric or induction hob. Such models can be operated both in conjunction with the oven, that is, they can be dependent, and separately, that is, they can be independent. Despite some difference in their design, general rules, which should be followed when carrying out work, are similar for all versions.

Bore hole preparation

Markup

Depends on how accurately the markup will be carried out appearance finished kitchen, and an error of even half a centimeter will force you to acquire a new countertop.

The markup can be done in two ways:

• put the device in place and circle it with a marker;
• calculate and mark the attachment point with millimeter accuracy.

Despite the seeming simplicity and attractiveness of the first path, there are a lot of chances to make mistakes and apply incorrect markings.

Preliminary fitting of sizes

It is much more reliable to mark the installation site by careful calculations:

1. Borders are applied to the surface of the countertop interior space cabinet, above which the hob will be placed. Thus, the place within which the work will be carried out will be indicated. The markings must be applied with a pencil so that at the end of the work the lines can be easily erased. If the tabletop does not allow drawing well-visible lines, then paper masking tape should be glued to its surface, and the markings should be drawn on it.
2. It is necessary to find the future center of the hole into which the body will be installed. To do this, the diagonals of the rectangle formed by the front and rear parts table tops and the drawn cabinet borders.
3. At the point of intersection of the applied diagonals, the center of the hob will be located. Through it you need to draw two straight lines: one parallel to the edge of the countertop, the other perpendicularly.
4. On these lines it is necessary to note the dimensions of the built-in part of the case. They can be viewed in technical documentation or try on yourself. These dimensions should be increased by 1-2 mm in order to make it more convenient to install the device later.
5. Straight lines are drawn through the marked marks (parallel and perpendicular to the edge of the tabletop). They form a rectangle that exactly corresponds to the recessed part of the cabinet and is located in the center of the table top.
6. It is necessary to check that the minimum distance specified by the manufacturer in the technical documentation is observed between the lines of the final marking and the surrounding objects.
7. The resulting rectangle must be circled with a marker, and the extra lines must be erased so as not to make a mistake when cutting a hole.

The marked rectangle corresponds to the size of the hob

Cutting the bore hole

To cut seat under the hob, you can use the following tools:

• milling machine;
• jigsaw;
• drill.

The highest quality cut is obtained when working milling machine... A slightly less high-quality cut is made by an electric jigsaw with a fine-toothed saw.

For work, you can use a drill or jigsaw

The procedure for cutting a hole with a jigsaw is as follows:

• At the corners of the marked rectangle (with inside) drill holes with an 8-10 mm drill.
• Using a fine-toothed saw, carefully cut along the marked lines. The body of the jigsaw must not be held “suspended”; it should be firmly pressed against the tabletop.

The hole is cut along the marked lines

But not every household has handy tools... Much less beautiful, but, nevertheless, a cut suitable for installation can be made using a conventional drill.

The procedure for cutting the bore hole with a drill is as follows:

• An 8-10 mm drill is used to make holes along the marked line. They need to be drilled from the inside of the marks in such a way that the drilled places are in contact with the intended cutting line. The holes must be made as often as possible so that the cut-off piece of the tabletop can be easily broken off.
• The rough edges of the hole must be aligned with the marked line. To do this, you can use a rasp or a fine saw for wood or metal. The resulting edges must be made as even as possible.

Attention! After the hole has been made, you need to insert the hob into it. The device should be able to fit without effort and completely cover the cut hole with its body.

Sealing the bore hole

The next step is sealing. It is necessary to protect the countertop from water ingress during cleaning or cooking. A worktop made of wood or chipboard can swell and deteriorate from this.

Sealing is done with an acrylic plumbing sealant or nitro varnish. It must be carefully applied with a thin layer from the inside to the ends of the hole made. There is no need to apply sealant to the top surface of the countertop - there will be used a special gasket in the form of a sealing tape, which comes with the panel.

The ends of the table top are treated with silicone

Sealing tape sticker:

• An adhesive layer covered with a foil is applied to the sealing tape. It should not be removed all at once, but torn off gradually, as it sticks to the surface.
• The tape is glued along the perimeter of the bore in a single piece. At the corners, it is not cut, but simply glued with a turn.
• The end and the beginning of the tape are joined end-to-end, without overlap and gap.

Some manufacturers equip hobs with aluminum seals. Instructions for their installation are contained in the documentation for the device.

Panel fixing

The hob is fastened as follows:

• The appliance is inserted into the mounting hole and centered so that the front is parallel to the edge of the table top.
• From the inside of the cabinet, the body is attached to the tabletop with special plates included in the delivery set.
• Installation must be carried out in such a way that there are no gaps between the hob and the worktop.
• With a clerical knife, the excess of the seal is cut off from above.

The seal is cut off with a clerical knife

Connecting an installed hob

Electrical panel

It is advisable to provide the connection point for the electric hob even before installing the kitchen unit. The socket must meet all electrical safety requirements:

• have a grounding line;
• the supply copper cable must have a cross-section of at least 4 sq. mm.

An opening is cut in the rear wall of the base cabinet opposite the electrical outlet of such a size that you can easily insert and remove the plug from the hob by hand.

Sockets installed for self-connection, are of two types:

• three-pin;
• four-pin.

If a plug is installed on the wire of the hob, then to connect it is enough to plug it into the socket. The power cord must be of such length that it is not taut when connecting the device.

Plugs and sockets for connecting hob

For models sold without a plug, certain steps will be required:

• If the socket is three-pin, and there are four cores in the wire, then you will need to connect the two-phase model to a single-phase network. For this, wires with black and brown insulation are connected in a cord. This connection connects to the phase of the socket. The zero blue wire is connected to the zero of the socket, and the green-yellow wire is connected to ground. All connections must be reliably insulated.
• If the location of the wires in the outlet is unknown, then using a multimeter it is necessary to determine the phase and zero. If necessary, they are interchanged in such a way that they correspond to the wiring in the plug of the device.

Attention! When self-embedded in an electric hob, it is necessary to provide for the mandatory installation of individual RCDs and a circuit breaker. For example, for a 16A socket, an RCD of at least 40A is required, and an automatic device is at least 25A.

Induction hob

The induction panel is connected according to the same general principles as electric.
Many models do not have power cords, only terminals for connecting an external cable are installed.

The connection diagram is shown next to the terminal block.

In this case, joining is carried out in the following order:

• Remove the protective cover from the back of the instrument.
• The external cable is passed through the cover.
• The cord is connected to the terminal plate according to the diagram supplied with the panel.
• If a jumper is installed connecting zero and ground, it must be removed.

Gas panel

Domestic gas is a source of increased danger, therefore, special requirements are imposed on the kitchen area:

• The presence of a ventilation hood.
• Air inflow of at least 2 cubic meters. per hour for each kilowatt of panel power.
• The distance to the wall is at least 130 mm.
• The gas supply hose must be located so that it is not exposed to excessive heat and allows for periodic inspection by an inspection authority.

The hob is connected with a flexible hose

Attention! If mandatory requirements are not observed, the operator will not allow the installed gas panel to be operated.

The panel is connected by a certified specialist in the following order:

• A sealing fum tape is applied to the places of threaded connections.
• Paronite gaskets are inserted into the gas hose.
• The hose is connected to the hob and the gas supply point.
• The joints are checked for leaks using soap foam.
• The power cord is plugged into a waterproof outlet.

For the operation of gas models, they must be accepted by the service organization responsible for these works in the area of ​​residence.

Install the hob in kitchen set can on their own, carrying out the work carefully in accordance with the recommendations presented.

I still chose an induction hob. Because I don't have gas in my house, and I didn't want a regular electric one. The panel from the manufacturer HANSA, there will definitely be an article about it, but today is not about that. Today I need to install this hob in my countertop! And I have never done this before, I just saw how the masters do it. But I didn't really want to give 2000 - 2500 rubles, I didn't really want to install the surface, so I decided to install it myself, in principle I succeeded, I think you will succeed ...

The article will be with pictures, so read and see everything step by step.

Guys for a start -. Be sure to read the article so as not to redo the wiring several times later!

1) Tool. To install (insert) the hob, we need a jigsaw, drill, tape measure, marking pencils and flat board, about 1 meter (I have left of the furniture) or a large ruler.

2) Determine the place where we will embed the panel, I have this place above the void for the oven. Of course, the panel can also be embedded over cupboards and kitchen utensils, but in my opinion this is not very correct.

3) Try on the panel by eye. The main thing is that there is enough space around the edges.

4) Now the most difficult thing is to mark the dimensions on the countertop. To begin with, I determined the center, just measured the distance (where the installation will be made) and marked the center.

5) Now we take a book, it has everything required dimensions, you need to try to comply with them. First, I define the horizontal gaps. That is, what size should be set aside from the wall and what should be left to the edge of the countertop. Moreover, these dimensions are already indicated by the manufacturer, here they are in the picture - X and X1. X - 50 mm (up to the wall), X1 - 60 mm (up to the edge). We postpone these dimensions. I have a corner attached, it is 30 mm, so I set aside another 20 mm and that 50 mm from it. At the end, exactly 60 mm remains, you don't even need to measure there.

6) Now the dimension "A" is important for us - this is the width of the slab, we have it 560 mm, that is, 280 mm from the center (which we set aside). Draw two parallel lines from the center at a distance of 280 mm. And in the end, we get all sizes. Take a look.

7) Now we take a drill, insert a drill 8 - 10 mm (to fit the jigsaw file) and drill. We need to drill three to four holes (three are possible, then the last corner in which we do not drill - we will cut to it). Here are my three holes.

8) Next, we take a jigsaw and begin to cut the tabletop, everything is strictly in size. It should be noted the dimensions that are in the instructions already with gaps. We'll have to sweat the worktop is difficult to saw, but after 20 - 25 minutes everything was ready.

9) After that, we simply take out the cut plate and remove it.

10) We remove the sawdust and try to insert the panel into place, everything should be fine! They did it according to the manufacturer's size. The stove moves a little, that is, you can move it slightly to the right - to the left, as well as up and down.