Leveling a wooden floor: technology and necessary materials. Methods for leveling the subfloor How to make a floor of planks even

For dry leveling of the floor, plywood is considered the most suitable option. Floor screed with this material is less expensive compared to the use of special mixtures. For rooms with high humidity, it is necessary to take a moisture-resistant material. In addition to plywood, it can be GVLV, MDF, OSB, chipboard boards. Fiberboard slabs are not suitable for leveling a wooden floor, since over time they will repeat all the bumps and grooves of the boardwalk. Having decided to level the wooden floor, you must carefully study the advice of specialists in order to avoid unpleasant and costly alterations.

The thickness of the plywood is taken depending on the level of differences in the old floor, the method of installation and the planned topcoat. Thicker sheets can be placed under carpet and linoleum as these floor coverings do not require perfect leveling. Laminate and parquet flooring require a perfectly flat base, therefore plywood for the base should be chosen with a thickness of at least 12 mm.

Our advice! For greater reliability and strength under parquet and laminate, choose plywood, the thickness of which will be no less than the thickness of the finish flooring.

When buying, you need to pay attention to the brand of plywood. For individual construction, you should choose the FC or FSF brand. The FC brand does not contain phenols and is absolutely harmless material. This material has an average moisture resistance and is resistant to mechanical stress.

When choosing plywood for leveling the floor, pay attention to its marking

For rooms with high humidity and temperature changes, it is better to take the FSF brand. Such material is more wear-resistant and has mechanical strength. It receives such qualities due to the use of phenol-formaldehyde adhesive resins in its manufacture. Unfortunately, these resins are quite toxic, so in living rooms using such plywood is not worth it.

According to GOST, 4 grades of material are on sale:

• First grade. This material is of the highest quality. On the surface, you will not see practically any external defects, however, GOST allows cracks less than 20 cm or the presence of a slight warped veneer.
• Second grade. For this grade, slight oozing of glue and wood inserts are allowed. Scratches and dents are possible on the sheets up to 5% of the total surface.
• Third grade. On the surface of such material, there may be traces of wormholes, intergrown or fallen out knots.
• Fourth grade. It is the lowest quality material with many manufacturing defects. At big flaws the veneer is nevertheless glued well.

By analyzing the price-quality ratio, experienced craftsmen, for leveling the wooden floor, it is advised to take 2 grade plywood.

Plywood is sold unpolished and sanded. Marking "Ш1" indicates one-sided grinding, and "Ш2" about two-sided. "NSh" - unpolished plywood. Sanded plywood is marked with the emission class of free formaldehyde:

• "E1"- 10 milligrams of formaldehyde for every 100 grams of dry plywood;
• "E2"- 10 - 30 milligrams of formaldehyde for every 100 grams of dry matter.

Thus, for residential construction the best choice there will be plywood sheets of 2 grades, with markings FC, Ш1, Е1 and with a thickness of 10-12 millimeters. Such material will make the floor perfectly flat.

Plywood is considered the most acceptable material for leveling a wooden floor.

Experienced craftsmen, when choosing a method for leveling a particular floor, take into account general state floor and the degree of deviation from the horizontal. Building codes give clear values ​​for the permissible differences. Professionals advise:

1. If the difference in floor level in height is no more than 2 mm by square meter then no alignment is required.
2. If the deformation of a correctly laid wooden floor in height is no more than 5 mm, then when leveling the plywood is attached directly to the floorboards. According to the requirements of SNiP, boards with different directions of the pattern are stacked in such a way that the humps-bulges are located not side by side, but after 1-2 boards. This floor is considered to be installed correctly.
3. If there is a large difference in height of 1-8 cm, then tape or point supports are made under the plywood sheet to be installed.
4. If the fluctuations in height are too large, then it is better to carry out complete assembly floor by replacing materials.

Important! The use of plywood for dry leveling is permissible only if there are no complaints about technical specifications floor.

To determine the height difference, it is better to use a two-meter level gauge:

• points are marked in the corners of the room;
• the centers of the mating lines of the walls and floor are determined;
• the center of the room is located;
• divide the room into separate areas and examine them.

Be sure to carry out a full audit of the floor:

• eliminate squeak;
• update the fasteners;
• replace damaged areas;
• make an audit of all underground communications.

For work, you will need a screwdriver, a level, self-tapping screws and PVA-joiner glue.

How to level a wooden floor with your own hands

If in the future it is not planned to use finishing flooring, then the laying of cut plywood sheets begins from the center of the room to the walls. After installation, the plywood is opened with varnish. The attachment points should not be closer than 2 cm to the edge of the sheet.

Layout diagram of plywood when using it as a floor covering If it will be laid on top of plywood flooring then there is no need to worry about the symmetry of the points

If the plywood will subsequently be covered with another material, then the location of the attachment points and the order of installation of the sheets does not matter. In this case, as a rule, installation begins from the far corner of the room. If it is supposed to lay 2 layers of plywood, then make sure that the seams are not located one above the other. Leveling the floor with plywood is performed in several ways.

Leveling the floor with plywood without log

The method of leveling the floor without installing a log is the simplest. Before laying, the material is brought into the room at least two days in advance and installed on the edge. If there is no heating in the room intended for laying, then the sheets are brought in a day and moistened with warm water.

When installing using this method, the support beams are not installed, their function is performed by small tubercles of the curved floorboards. A technological gap of 10-20 mm is left between the flooring and the walls. It will prevent the floor from deforming when the humidity changes. For the same purpose, plywood sheets are not placed end to end, but laid with a gap of 3-8 mm. Large sheets the plywood is cut into several smaller sheets. All sheets are stacked in checkerboard, making an offset of a quarter / half of the sheet.

If the floor is made of floorboards up to 20 cm wide and the irregularities are the same, then take plywood with a thickness of 8-10 mm. For flooring with a board width of more than 20 cm and if the plywood will not rest on each floorboard, it is better to take plywood with a thickness of 18-20 mm. For such installation, in addition to plywood, DSP or GVL boards can also be used. When fastening, make sure that the fastening points are evenly spaced.

Important! It is better to drill holes in the plywood in advance. This should be done in 2 steps. First, they drill with a drill of the same diameter as the self-tapping screw, and then a smaller hole is made along the diameter of its cap, which must be sunk into the back. At least two centimeters recede from the edge of the sheet.

Plywood fixing scheme A hole for a dowel or a bolt is made in two steps

If the sheets are rough on one side, then they are laid:

• with this side up, if further it is planned to lay the finished floor;
• this side down, if you plan to cover the attachment points with acrylic sealant and open the plywood with varnish.

Alignment with tape support

According to this method, the crate is placed horizontally. It consists of longitudinal logs and cross members. The laying step of the lag leaves 40-50 cm, plus an indent of 3 cm is made from the walls.

The device of a strip support for leveling with plywood The pitch of the battens depends on the thickness of the plywood used. The thicker the plywood, the less often you can install logs.

For the construction of the lathing, the following materials are needed:

• timber 60x60, 50x50 or 40x40;
• edged board 2 grades;
• reiki.

Lags and crossbars are set one level.

Procedure:

1. Lay out the plywood in a checkerboard pattern and circle the sheets. This will mark the place for the lag. Sheets are numbered.
2. Lags are mounted according to the markup.
3. Install crossbars and fasten them to the logs with self-tapping screws.
4. Expose logs with crossbars vertically. When aligning, adhere to the requirements of SNiP.
5. The leveled lag system is attached with galvanized metal corners.
6. Plywood is laid and attached to the logs.

For additional insulation the floor space in the crate can be filled with a mixture of wet sawdust with PVA glue. The mixture is applied in 2-3 layers. Each layer should harden for 2 days. Medium plywood is suitable for this alignment.

Mini-lag alignment

This technology is used on floors with a large slope or height difference of more than eight centimeters. To level the floor, in this case, slats and wooden pads are installed. Such a system will be a single support for the plywood sheet. Using this method requires precise engineering calculations.

First of all, you should try on by laying out the plywood sheets and indicating their location. It is necessary to calculate the dimensions of each supporting element very accurately. There are special formulas and programs for calculating the height and dimensions of the support.

Using the mini-lag allows you to correct significant curvature. A more complicated version of this method is fitting the plywood to the "relief" of the flooring. Such work requires a high-precision special tool and precise engineering calculations.

More difficult option- adjustment of plywood "to the relief" of the wooden flooring

Leveling the floor with plywood on point supports

When using this method, separate pillars are installed. They're cut out of planks OSB boards or plywood residues. The thickness of the saber is equal to the size of the level drop. Thus, a mesh-like crate is formed, similar to a strip crate. The pads of the saber are set at a distance of 30-45 cm.

Such a support is inferior in its characteristics to a strip crate - it is less stable and reliable. This a budget option for small rooms, with small differences in height. If plywood of medium or low thickness is available, then it can be laid in 2 layers. With this arrangement, make sure that the plywood sheets lie apart and the seams do not match. Butt seams should be at least 20cm apart from each other.

Specificity of laying plywood in two layers

In conclusion, I would like to remind you of the need to provide the underground with ventilation. After the finishing flooring is laid and the plinth is mounted, the ventilation holes are drilled. They are located at pre-designated points. The holes are covered with a ventilation grill.

Tips from the masters

If linoleum is supposed to be laid on a plywood base in the future, then it is additionally sanded, with high-quality processing of all joints and attachment points to the logs. A special underlay is placed on the base under the laminate. If carpet flooring is planned, then the plywood base is covered with several layers of varnish.

We have told you how to level a wooden floor in a private house. All of the above methods will not provide much difficulty for home master... After such leveling and finishing, the old wooden floor will serve for many more years. It is important that the floor, when leveling with plywood, will rise by only 2-5 cm, and this makes it possible to use this method for rooms with a low height.

Video: leveling a wooden floor with plywood

There are situations when you need to quickly and inexpensively level the old floor under the laminate. Floor options can be a large number of... But they will all have a concrete foundation that will have to be leveled. It can be wood, concrete base. The rough version of the floor must be adjusted to the maximum level and horizontal, in order to subsequently perform finishing... The floor covering can also be laid over the old floor. But over time, problems can arise, such as squeaking wooden floors, emerging potholes and protrusions in the concrete base. This will have to be dealt with by dismantling the cover and performing alignment. To get rid of this process, the subfloor must be leveled beforehand.

There is a need

Some people may think that producing a subfloor is not as necessary as it seems at first glance. In their opinion, the new coating will hide all defects and errors of the base. Over time, any floor covering, if laid on uneven surface, fail, lose their properties and qualities. Appearance will be damaged and you will have to resort to repairs. It is worth noting that a particularly soft surface requires evenness. A difference in height is allowed, but no more than 2 mm. per meter. So, for example, laminate flooring, with large differences, can swell.

Particularly popular is the subfloor using plywood sheets, the preparation of self-leveling mixtures, scrapping the floor, and putty. In the latter case, ordinary PVA glue acts as a base.

Wood floor curvature

Before starting work, you should determine how crooked the subfloor is and what should be done to fix it. The floor curvature factor will influence the life and quality of the floor covering over time. If you take a material such as laminate flooring, then it cannot be laid immediately on wooden base... Under the influence of changes in temperature and humidity levels in the room, boards can dry out, lose strength, and crack. This all affects the condition of the laminate. You can glean information on how without ripping off the boards. But in this case, they themselves should be in excellent condition.

For this reason, an alignment layer should be produced. All voltage will be transmitted to it. The surface is preliminary inspected for damage and formations. These areas should be removed and replaced with new ones. When all this is done, you need to take the level and make all the measurements.

The following tools can be used for work:

1. Rotary. A simple rail is used to determine the difference in floor height.
2. Bubble level. The curvature is determined when this tool is applied to the base. If the bubble remains in the central position, then you can proceed to the next stage, since. If it begins to slide to the right or left, then you will have to make an effort to create a flat surface. But it has low accuracy in rooms with large areas.
3. Linear laser level.

The choice as a tool will depend on capabilities and needs. If the work is one-time in one room, then you should not spend a lot of money, but take a regular bubble level.

Plywood alignment

The most convenient material can be called. When using them, the rough surface becomes almost perfectly flat. In any case, the topcoat can be laid without any fancy. The floor can then be raised 20-30 mm. In the process of performing the work, a minimum amount of funds and material is spent, and the process itself is simple and fast. In the future, you can even produce linoleum flooring or other soft materials. But you should definitely do it yourself in an apartment in stages. There should be no deviations from the installation technology in order to get the desired result.

The moisture content of the plywood sheets used must correspond to the humidity in the room itself. This result can be achieved by wetting both sides of the sheets with water, and then leaving them in the room for about 2-3 days. After this time, work can begin.

In some cases, the caps of the self-tapping screws may still protrude slightly. To avoid this, it is first necessary to drill a small hole of a larger diameter in the plywood sheets.

All subsequent actions will depend on what kind of flooring will be laid. For carpet, plywood is covered not with one, but with several layers of varnish. A substrate is laid under the laminate. For linoleum flooring, plywood sheets are sanded somewhat using a grinder. In this case, special attention is paid to the joints of the plywood squares, as well as to their attachment points with self-tapping screws.

Using homemade floor putty

Many people say that we are very expensive floor. But there is also very cheap option level the old wooden parquet floor with slight differences in level. For this option - the use of putty together with sawdust. Moreover, the area for work can be significant.

The surface is thoroughly cleaned from any debris beforehand. The sawdust used is slightly moistened during work. This is necessary so that there is no rapid absorption of moisture from PVA. The filling technology includes the following stages:

Among the disadvantages of this version of the rough layer is the drying time of all previous layers of putty. This great way instead of a floor screed in the apartment. But the coating becomes less durable compared to other options, despite the large amount of time spent.

Self-leveling mixtures

Any old floor covering should be removed carefully. The same applies to cases when it is necessary to create a flat surface after the parquet. There are some peculiarities and subtleties of the work. But it is very important to study the technology and learn how to level the floor after removing the parquet. Among the new methods, application can be distinguished. This composition is diluted to a liquid state by adding water, after which it is distributed over the entire surface of the subfloor, where leveling should be performed. As a result, it turns out solid foundation, elastic, smooth, intended for finishing.

In any case, preparations should be made prior to installation. It will not matter here whether it is on the ground floor or others. The sequence of work and technology is no different. True, the first floor requires more attention if there is a basement... Here you will need to additionally arrange a layer of waterproofing to protect the screed from the appearance of mold or mildew.

Acrylic compound is used to seal wide gaps in the surface. Leftovers old paint, the varnish must be removed, as in the future they can cause Negative influence on the state of the alignment layer.

The cracks can be closed with a self-leveling mixture, but it must be brought to the state of thick sour cream. Before full cycle alignment will have to wait for drying.

With protection against moisture, it is applied to substrates after cleaning debris and full preparation... This increases the level of adhesion of the mixture to the floor. The bottom walls are insulated with construction tape. A mark is made on it, along which it is necessary to fill ready mix... If pouring is carried out with adjacent rooms, then a bar is installed at the entrance to prevent the solution from flowing into it.

When the level is set at the bottom of the walls with scotch tape, it should be remembered that it should not be lower than the minimum thickness for a future screed. When distributing the mortar, a reinforcing mesh should be used, which is laid on the base. It can be fastened with a construction stapler.

It is best to use a drill with a nozzle for mixing. In this case, everything must follow the instructions from the manufacturer. After kneading, time is given for settling for about 15 minutes. Next, the mixture is re-kneaded.

Distributed over the entire surface. For work, you can use a mop with a rubber base. If there are air bubbles, they are all removed with a mop with spikes, which should be longer in length than the thickness of the fill.

During the drying process of the mixture, the same temperature is maintained. There are also disadvantages in such mixtures - the floor level rises. But not a single alignment option is immune from this. So you shouldn't pay here special attention... Nevertheless, the advantages of the method are much greater, which arouses interest among the performers.

Wood floor scraper

Everyone should be aware of how old hardwood floors are. After removing the floor covering, surface defects remain, as well as errors of the old base appear. You should get rid of this. The most laborious process is scraping.
But the effectiveness is noticeable right away. The work can be done independently and with your own hands. The simplest and fastest option is mechanical scraping, which is worth paying attention to.

In the process of work, a large amount of fine dust appears. So that it does not affect the interior items in the apartment, it is best to cover them with a protective film. On the old wooden floor the heads of the nails are completely hammered, which are simply sunk into the base. looping is a sequence of the following stages:

1. The work is carried out with a snake from one corner to the opposite.
2. When the first layer is removed, the gaps formed are sealed with putty. Its color is best chosen the same as the used floor covering.
3. When the putty is completely hardened, you can continue sanding.
4. Using a hand-held corner scraper, work is done in hard-to-reach places, including around skirting boards.
5. When the dust has completely settled, a vacuum cleaner is used to collect it and remove the debris. After that, the plank floor is wiped with a damp cloth, which is pre-moistened with a solvent. As a result, all that remains is to apply varnish to the treated base.

If the board is damaged on one side, it can be turned over to the other. It is installed in the same place. You can, of course, replace it with a new one, but the color will be noticeably different from other boards.

Over time, the surface of any wood floor will inevitably crack, buckle and become uneven.

You can hide such defects using various floor coverings, such as laminate or linoleum.

You can hide such defects using various floor coverings, for example or. Before laying any finishing materials you should competently and efficiently process the surface and make it as flat as possible.

There are several ways to make the floor surface even. For selection the right way should assess the state wooden surface.

Choice of method

Basic alignment methods

• Looping
• PVA glue and putty
• Self-leveling mixture or "self-leveling floor"
• Plywood

Mechanical scraping of a wooden floor

For mechanical scraping, a scraper is required, with which you can quickly and efficiently make the floor surface as flat as possible.

Loop is one of the most simple and common methods for leveling a wooden floor. The laboriousness of the process pays off with the high quality of the result. Most often, scraping is performed for painting (read about puttingty walls for painting in this one) or varnishing. The manual method of scraping is impractical due to the high labor intensity and time consuming. For mechanical scraping, a scraper is required, with which you can quickly and efficiently make the floor surface as flat as possible. With minimal skills, for looping a room of 20 sq. meters leaves no more than one day.

Stages of mechanical scraping:

• Cleaning the room from furniture and interior items. Stationary items should be covered to avoid excessive dust.
• Floor surface preparation. Remove all nails and buttons that could damage the scraper. Thoroughly clean the floor from debris.
• Checking the operability of the scraper and preparing overalls, respirator, headphones, heavy gloves.
• Direct scraping of the floor. Work should start from the corner of the room. The first layer is removed when moving with a snake.
• Elimination of all cracks, chips and holes with a putty. The color of the putty must be chosen as close as possible to the color of the wooden surface.
• Processing of all hard-to-reach areas of the floor using manual scraping. After the putty has dried, it is necessary to carry out a secondary scraping.

Leveling the floor with PVA glue and putty

It is based on the use of a mixture of wetted sawdust and PVA glue, which, after hardening, forms a fairly durable surface that vaguely resembles a chipboard plate.

So innovative and unusual way leveling a wooden floor is very budgetary, and has recently been gaining momentum in popularity. It is based on the use of a mixture of wetted sawdust and PVA glue, which, after hardening, forms a fairly durable surface that vaguely resembles a chipboard plate. The process is quite lengthy. For leveling a surface with an area of ​​20 sq. meters may take about 8 hours.

Stages of leveling with an adhesive mixture:

1. Removing furniture and cleaning the floor.
2. Execution according to the level of marking and the imposition of slats.
3. Filling the space between the slats and the floor with prepared adhesive mixture... A thick leveling layer is carried out in several stages. Each subsequent layer is poured after the previous one has completely dried.
4. Checking the resulting coverage using a level. All defects and errors must be eliminated with a putty.
5. Complete drying depends on the thickness and takes at least a day. Additional strength can be given by using chipboard sheet or plywood.

Wait until it is completely dry (it usually takes a couple of days) and install the floor covering.

Leveling with self-leveling compound

The walls should be covered with insulating material.

This method is quite simple, and the self-leveling mixtures produced specifically for wooden floors make the whole process as easy as possible. The thickness of a perfectly flat surface will be from 0.5 to 2 cm.

Surface preparation consists in securing all movable boards and removing protruding parts fasteners... Then it is necessary polish surface for removing paint or varnish residues. Visible gaps and gaps are leveled with a thick self-leveling compound. The walls should be covered with insulating material, and in doorway set the wooden plank to the height of the upcoming pour. The duration of work in the room is 20 sq. meters with a layer of 3 mm. does not exceed 8 hours, and after 6 hours it is already possible to move on the flooded surface.

Leveling steps:

Plywood alignment

A very popular and widespread alignment method. Demand for styling different types floor covering. Plywood sheets of class 4 and higher are used. The sheet thickness should not be less than 1.2 cm. The optimal lag thickness is 70 mm. A good option is grade 2 from solid wood conifers: spruce, fir or pine. The humidity level is no more than 18-20%. With a competent approach and some skills, a floor area of ​​20 sq. meters can be leveled for one day.

Leveling steps:

Cost of material and work in 2015

Most often, construction and repair companies offer floor leveling services. "Bulk method"... The cost of leveling with a "self-leveling floor" up to 20 mm is 270 rubles. per sq. m. Leveling "self-leveling floor" from 20 mm to 50 mm will cost 310 rubles. per sq. m., leveling with a "self-leveling floor" using a leveling compound costs 350 rubles. sq. m. If a floor primer is required with a universal composition, then such work is estimated at 75 rubles. per sq. m.

If the option of a self-leveling floor is chosen, then the consumption of a high-quality German mixture Uzin NC 175 with a layer thickness of 3 mm. equals 4 kg per 1 sq. meter; 6 mm - 8 kg; 9 mm - 12 kg. Accordingly, a standard package of 25 kg is enough for 6, 3 or 2 square meters. meters of the base of the wooden floor. A paper bag of this mixture weighing 25 kg. costs around 3 thousand rubles.

The cost of professional work on leveling a wooden floor using plywood is in the range of 140 - 160 rubles. per sq. m. A sheet of waterproof plywood FSF 12 mm format 2500 x 1250 costs 1300 rubles. Required amount easy to calculate yourself.

Of course, the most budgetary method is leveling using PVA glue and putty.

The total cost of the material depends on the footage of the room and the thickness of the applied layer. For example: PVA glue Polymax Extra M, 5 kg. costs 230.96 rubles. Sawdust, which is a waste of woodworking production, is completely "cheap", and even free material. With an average thickness of filling with such a mixture of 1-1.5 cm, the consumption of glue per 1 sq. m. will be about 0.8 kg. The proportions of glue and sawdust depend on the type of wood waste.

Typically, a strong bond gives a sawdust to adhesive ratio of 2: 1.

The price range for floor shredding is very large and depends on the selected equipment. The price of scraping a wooden floor starts at 119 rubles. per sq. m. For example, cycle work on German technology will cost the customer 500 rubles. per sq. m. Warranty for work - at least 2 years. The price of independent cycle work depends entirely on the cost of the tool used. Renting a cycling machine costs 1000 rubles per day. Buy such a tool for one-time use impractical.

Video instruction

Having done all the work correctly, you can be sure that the wooden floor will become perfectly smooth, various irregularities will disappear and will not affect the quality of the new coating.

How to determine the condition of a wooden floor in a house

Before laying laminate, parquet or linoleum, you should assess the condition of the wood floor and level it.

Before leveling the surface, clean the floor from residues concrete pavement, dust, etc., it is also necessary to eliminate all cracks, holes. This will prevent material leakage and premature wear of the coating.

Alignment and adjustment can be done in any of these ways:

• Looping
• Self-leveling mixture
• Plywood
• Glue and sawdust

Only after analyzing the condition of the boards, you can choose suitable option... First of all, the boards should be examined for a predisposition to rot and the presence of insects. The main enemies of wood are insects, which lay eggs in it, destroying the organic structure of the material.

Moreover, insects, reproducing, can destroy a tree in a few years, turning it into crumbling dust. Boards should be treated with a special solution to get rid of bark beetles.

It is worth noting that the wooden floor does not have to be damaged, it is possible that the boards were simply "led". In such situations, the floor in the house remains strong, free of insects and rot, but with some irregularities. It is possible to lay laminate flooring, but it will not last long.

How to level a wooden floor?

Looping - the best way if the boards are "led". This option is only possible if the floor is horizontal. The advantage of scraping is that such a procedure not only flattens, but also emphasizes the structure of the tree, refreshing the cut.

The disadvantages of this method can be called the laboriousness of the process, the expensive rental of a cycler.

It is necessary to cycle in a protective mask or respirator, overalls and headphones that will protect you from loud noise.

Such processing includes the following steps:

• driving nails a couple of millimeters below floor level
• protection of furniture from dust
• processing by apparatus
• putty (using acrylic putty the desired color large cracks should be hidden)
• final processing with a scraper

It is best to start from the far corner of the room. After the end of the last stage, dust should be collected with a vacuum cleaner and treated with a special solution. The floor is now ready, it can be varnished or laminated.

Leveling the wooden floor in the house

Plywood is used for leveling. Using it will allow you to correct small defects and significant horizontal deviations.

The following stages of plywood adjustment are provided:

• markings are made on the walls (a laser level is used)
• self-tapping screws are used to make "beacons"
• lags are attached with glue (plywood or timber is suitable)
• plywood sheets are placed (plywood is sawn into 4 parts)
• during the final laying, the plywood is fixed to the joists with countersunk screws

After completing the work, carefully inspect the attached plywood. Any damage and delamination of the material will lead to problems during the installation of laminate or any other covering.

The following nuances should be considered here:

• In order for the chipboard to "get used" to the humidity of the room in which it will be located, bring the sheets into the room for several days
• Cables and communications can be hidden under plywood sheets
• Plywood can be used as a topcoat or as a base for laminate, linoleum or carpet.
• If you have installed lags, then the level can be increased to 10 cm

How else can you align

To level the boards, you can install plywood directly to the floor. The support in this case will be the "waves" of the boards and the highest points of the differences.

Correct plywood alignment:

• Ideally, if the width of the boards is 10-12 cm.Then you will need plywood board about 10 mm
• Otherwise, you need to purchase plywood with a thickness of more than 10 mm

If the room has high humidity then regular plywood will not work. For leveling the boards, you should choose a moisture-resistant material.

Plywood sheets are attached directly to the floor with self-tapping screws. Seal the joints with acrylic sealant.

Correction with glue and sawdust

The most commonly used method of leveling before laying laminate flooring is to apply sawdust and glue (putty method). The initial components are inexpensive, and the putty itself, after hardening, becomes strong, resistant to external influences. The mixture is prepared from sawdust and glue.

Leveling steps:

• installation of slats on the level
• filling the space between the slats with sawdust (each layer is poured only after the previous one has completely dried)
• checking the surface with a level
• laying laminate flooring after complete drying

Most often, this mixture dries up in two days. It is worth noting that for some coatings, sawdust and glue putty is not reliable enough, so it is better to put plywood or other suitable material on top.

Self-leveling mixture - a universal tool for adjusting the floor

In situations where defects need to be corrected not in order to varnish it, but to lay another floor covering, self-leveling mixture is one of the most convenient and practical ways. After treatment, the floor will acquire perfect smooth surface, and all flaws and cracks are eliminated.

Despite its name, leveling the flooring with a self-leveling mixture is very difficult process... Also, this method is one of the expensive ones.

Solutions of this class consist of polymer materials, which contributes to almost instantaneous leveling and smoothing of the new coating.

Before proceeding with the leveling process, you must carefully prepare the surface. Pour in carefully and quickly.

The main phases of gender adjustment in this way:

• movable boards are fixed, nail heads are driven in
• the surface is cleaned
• primed
• the walls are prepared, the level is determined
• lined with a special reinforced mesh (for fixing it is used construction mesh) - this will allow you to extend the life of the coating
• the mortar is poured onto the reinforced floor and processed with a spiked rubber roller
• leveled with a smooth special brush
• the surface is dried

When using this method, it is worth remembering that the floor level will rise. This factor should be taken into account, especially if the laminate is to be laid on it later.

Leveling a wooden floor with a cement screed

Experienced experts are of the opinion that if the wood floor is strong enough or is initially laid for leveling, a cement floor screed can be used.

This method will make a rough surface with large drops almost perfectly flat.

In order to level the old wooden floor with cement, you must:

• the surface of the wooden floor is covered with a waterproofing compound
• after the layer has dried, lay a plastic wrap or roofing material. It would be correct to do it with an overlap
• the level measures the new surface
• beacons laid out
• then the cement mixture is prepared

Alignment in this case will not be difficult: cement mortar superimposed on the beacons, then alignment is carried out towards the door with metal slats.

The next layer of self-leveling compound will be easy to apply.

However, there is a risk of breaking the base boards with a heavy cement mixture. In this case, you will have to remove the cover and refill the floor. Use further layers of foam or expanded clay.

Providing ventilation

Regardless of the leveling method, it is necessary to provide for the ventilation of the floor boards in advance. This will allow you to prevent the appearance of mold, mildew and various pests on the surface.

Previously, for these purposes, a hole was drilled on the surface, into which a decorative lattice was reinforced.

Alternatively, conduct ventilation to the wall and install a decorative grill there.

If you notice something like this during alignment, do not rush to cover it up or cover it.

Leveling the floor without tearing the boards: how to choose the profitable method

Before you start leveling the floor, you need to decide which of the proposed options will be relevant and beneficial for you. This is determined based on the following criteria:

• Leveling capability
• The need to level the wood flooring
• Relatively low cost of good quality material
• Labor intensity of repair work

Leveling the wooden floor will make the log house reliable, durable and of high quality. After processing the wood in any of these ways, the floor will not bend, and the surface will be smooth and free of cracks.

It is useful to watch a video describing all the stages and nuances of leveling wooden floors without breaking the board before performing all the manipulations.

All the work can, of course, be done independently. If you have weighed all the pros and cons, you may come to the conclusion that a specialist will do it both faster and better. In this case, the YouDo service will come to your aid, offering the services of professionals with extensive experience.

Ordering services from specialists

The leveling of wooden floors is assessed based on several criteria:

• Do you need to dismantle the boards
• Application of floor insulation
• The presence of another waterproofing layer
• Material cost for leveling

Base floors do not always have the required characteristics, especially when it comes to concrete foundations v apartment buildings... But wooden floors are not always even, therefore, before starting the flooring of the selected floor covering, it is necessary to carry out a set of leveling works. It is important to immediately decide which methods of leveling a concrete or wood floor are most suitable.

Floor screed device diagram.

There are many such methods for concrete floors. You can use not only traditional cement screeds, but also logs, bulk mixes, allowing you to perform high-quality leveling. Not all methods can be used for wooden floors. This is due to the peculiarities of the foundation. For instance, concrete pouring not used, most often experts recommend installing leveling floors on logs.

How to level a concrete floor?

To level the concrete floor, you can use self-leveling mixtures. They can be divided into several distinct groups:

• self-leveling self-leveling mixtures based on cement;
• bulk polymer floors.

The scheme for leveling the subfloor with plywood.

In the first case, special dry mixtures based on cement are used, they are diluted with water. When making a screed, the mixture is poured onto the base in small portions, it is easy to distribute it over the surface. The result is a smooth and beautiful floor, no special effort is needed. During work, a special needle roller is used, which removes air bubbles from the poured mixture, simultaneously leveling it.

Polymer flooring is a slightly different method that allows the base not only to be leveled, but also to be finished. Today manufacturers offer a wide variety of options for such floors. They are distinguished by excellent qualities not only in leveling, but also in strength, durability, attractiveness.

Cement screed for leveling floors

The cement screed is used only for concrete, it is not intended for wood. This is due to the fact that the weight of the screed is significant, and the wooden base, especially the dilapidated one, may not withstand it.

The very process of installing a screed based on cement mix pretty demanding:

1. Preliminary preparation is in progress. The base is inspected for cracks and other defects.
2. Building level the position of the finished floor is determined, usually the height of the screed depends on the unevenness, the slope of the floor. Concrete leveling methods are most often acceptable. The solution can eliminate significant irregularities. But we must remember that the ceiling height will be hidden.
3. A damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the room, after which the coating is completely filled with the mixture prepared in advance. To level the solution, a rule is used, it is imperative to follow the markings made in advance or special beacons.

The device is a cement screed with expanded clay backing.

After the solution is poured and distributed, it is necessary to leave it to dry completely for 28 days.... This is one of the main disadvantages, since this method is not always applicable in an apartment. During drying, it is important to ensure that the surface does not crack. The advantages of the method are that it is possible to level the floors even if there are drops of 5 cm, which is quite a lot. It is best to hire a specialist to do this work, although this increases the already considerable cost of alignment.

To ensure the best quality, experts advise using beacons. For this, before pouring, special profiles and beacons in the form of piles of mortar with the required height are laid on the base of the floor. Their step is 60-80 cm, this is quite enough. The filling is carried out strictly according to the beacons, the surface is perfectly flat, while the labor costs are lower. Pouring is carried out from the far corner, you cannot walk on fresh cement, it must be smoothed immediately.

Lag alignment

Leveling the floor along the logs is relative uncomplicated way that anyone can do. To work, you need to prepare:

Installation of a dry sub-floor on the joists along the floor slab.

• wooden beams;
• pieces of plywood;
• plywood sheets, pre-cut into squares;
• jigsaw;
• self-tapping screws;
• mineral wool;
• building level;
• simple pencil.

The work begins by inspecting the base of the concrete floor. If it is too humid, it will take time to dry. Next, a layer of waterproofing is laid on the floor in the form plastic film... With the help of a building level and a ruler, a pencil on the walls, markings are made for the future final floor. It is necessary to take into account the height of the logs themselves and the presence of a plywood base of the finished floor.

Work begins with laying the joists on the floor in increments of 30-60 cm. The direction is chosen so that the joists provide maximum strength to the base. It is recommended to run them along the width of the room. If there is a need for alignment, then pieces of plywood are placed under the logs, getting them to the required height level.

Wooden floor screed diagram.

When the whole system is ready, it is necessary to start warming the floor. V in this case you can use mineral wool, which has optimal qualities and low cost. It fits tightly between the beams, no gaps should remain. Insulation fits flush with top lag, he should not perform, but he also cannot bend.

Next, leveling the floor with plywood begins. For this, plywood rectangles are fastened with self-tapping screws to the logs in a checkerboard pattern. It is necessary to leave a temperature gap of 3-5 mm between the individual elements, and up to 10 mm between the plywood sheathing and the wall. Self-tapping screws are sunk into the wood, as protruding heads can damage the flooring. After work, the surface is sanded, this completes the leveling of the floor.

How to level a wooden floor?

A plank floor has many advantages, but it is also more difficult to level it than a concrete one. First, you need to make sure that all the boards are strong, there are no signs of rot, cracks and other things. That's not all, usually plank floors are already installed on logs. We'll have to remove the cladding boards in order to inspect the condition of the log, to determine the required level of leveling work.

Floor scheme on logs on the ground.

If the board cover is intact, then it must be removed carefully, since it can be used for subsequent sewing. The state of the lag must be examined carefully. If there are cracks, traces of mold and other damage, then it is best to replace the wooden floor completely, that is, to perform a full complex of leveling it.

1. If the logs are even and dry, there are no signs of damage, the horizontal alignment is appropriate, then between the logs you can pour or lay a layer of insulation and sew the surface with boards. Alignment for laying the laminate is carried out with sheets of moisture-resistant plywood. This option is the simplest, it does not take much time.
2. If the lags began to resemble an "accordion", they were led, then it is necessary to completely remove all the bars, and then proceed to leveling. In this case, the wooden floor will be arranged on the logs. You can also apply the plywood leveling method and a special self-leveling system.

Leveling technology

The process of leveling a wooden floor with logs is as follows:

Beacon placement scheme.

1. Wooden beams are laid out on the base. If there is a need to adjust their height, then pieces of plywood are used for this or wooden pegs, which are placed under the logs. The pitch of the beams should be 30-60 cm, but it all depends on what kind of flooring will be used.
2. After the logs are mounted, you can insulate the floor, for which a layer of expanded clay, ecowool is poured between the beams or mineral wool is laid in the slabs.
3. The top is lined with moisture-resistant plywood or wooden planks... The result is a smooth sheathing suitable for almost any type of flooring. It is best to cut the plywood into small squares rather than using a solid sheet as this will provide the best quality wood flooring.

If the logs are intact, but the sheathing boards are uneven, then the actions are different. Experts advise to completely remove all boards, inspect their condition. All rotten, cracked elements must be replaced with new ones. The building level checks the horizontal position, if necessary, then it is necessary to plan the alignment, that is, the use of plywood sheets under the boards in the place where it is required.

The boards themselves for the wooden floor must be fastened from the far corner. Before this, the floor can be insulated, for which mineral wool, expanded clay or cellulose insulation are used.

The boards are knocked down with galvanized nails, the caps should be sunk into the material so that they do not protrude outward.

During work, it is important not to forget about the temperature gaps of a couple of millimeters, since the tree is highly susceptible to temperature and humidity changes, and this negatively affects the coating. It is best to leave gaps on the sides of the floor, but more than between individual boards.

Leveling the floor is a responsible process, since it depends on the base how well the flooring will be laid. Wood floors are more demanding. It is necessary not only to carry out the alignment, but also to carefully inspect the condition of all boards, if necessary, replace the damaged ones. Most often, logs are used for wooden floors, and cement screed for concrete. Its cost is higher than that of lag, but its strength is also higher.