What to put the tiles on. How to lay tiles on the wall: do it yourself with a photo instruction

Water bodies 25.06.2019
Water bodies

The cost of high-quality laying of one square of tiles is close to the price of the finishing material itself. Consequently, many people are interested in how to lay tiles on floors and walls on their own.

After completing the repairs in the bathroom, the person is sincerely happy, because now everything is new in the room. Over time, he begins to notice that the sink is covered with rust and limescale, the shower is leaking, and the tiles are faded, cracked or fell off. As a result, there are thoughts about updating the repair.

Trying to reduce the cost of bathroom renovation, they want to learn the secrets and intricacies of styling tile... Anyone can master the skill of tiling. If in doubt, read the article where you will find general information for laying tiles.

Tiling organizes a durable and beautiful decorative coating... Upon completion of the finishing work, a perfect surface will be obtained.

  1. Seams. In the case of wall tiles, the seams are horizontal and vertical. When it comes to gender, perpendiculars and parallels come to the fore. The width of the seams must be the same. Small plastic crosses of the same size help to achieve this effect.
  2. It is customary to check the verticality of the seams with a plumb line. The size of the maximum deviation of the seam from the vertical axis should not exceed 1 mm. If the deviation is large, the first row is to blame.
  3. The width and verticality of the joint is determined by the skill of the installation and the quality of the tile. Ideally, the size should be the same in height, width and diagonal. In spite of the fact that at the enterprises the material is collected in calibrated bags, it is not always possible to avoid the difference in size.
  4. The plane of the tiled surface should be as flat as possible. It's easy to check - attach to the plane building level and slip a banknote under it.
  5. Beginner tilers, when laying tiles on a non-vertical wall, break the rows. Closer to the top, the layer of glue increases and may crack, and the tile may fall off. In this case, one can only dream of an ideal plane. It will help to avoid this pre-alignment walls.
  6. In some cases, the material does not differ in a flat plane. Consequently, at the very end of the facing work, "Amur waves" are formed. To check the quality of the flatness of the tile, it is very simple to take two tiles from one package and attach them to each other. If there are gaps between the front sides, this indicates an unsatisfactory flatness. It is customary to check the plane vertically and horizontally.
  7. The tiled plane must correspond to the level. As the theory goes, the tiles are laid on the most flat surface. That is why uneven floors and walls are pre-leveled with screed and plaster. Uneven walls cannot be leveled with a layer of glue. As a result, a thick layer of the substance will turn out, which will negatively affect the strength.
  8. The tiles are laid flat so that the adhesive layer does not grow too much.

When laying tiles, be sure to observe the plane, horizon and level.

Video Tips

If in the bathroom uneven walls, pay attention to alignment.

How to lay tiles on the floor

There is an opinion that laying tiles on the floor with your own hands is a laborious and complicated procedure. People who hold this opinion are greatly mistaken.

  1. First, let's prepare the floor. Remove dirt from the surface, moisten with clean water and level with a solution. Prime the floor and allow to dry.
  2. Tiles are laid on the floor in two ways. The first involves the use cement mortar, the second - special glue.
  3. Take four tiles and place them in the corners of the room. When laying other tiles, they serve as guidelines.
  4. Lay the tiles parallel to the window line. The first row starts from the first, located in the corner. Be sure to level it.
  5. In the case of cement, it is recommended to seal the tiles to the floor. If glue is used, apply to tile and apply to surface.
  6. When laying the second tile, press it tightly against the first. Remove excess adhesive mixture and separate with plastic crosses. The result is a seam.
  7. Sometimes a whole tile will not fit. In this case, trim using a special tool.
  8. After finishing styling, wait a day. After the expiration of the period, we proceed to the seams.
  9. If the tile is laid on cement, remove the excess mortar, and after 48 hours, fill it with cement milk. After two days, remove the cement, leaving only the seams.
  10. In the case of glue, after drying, seal the joints with grout using a flexible spatula.

After finishing the installation, be sure to wash the surface. If the tile is laid on cement, it is allowed to use the room after a week. In the case of glue, after 48 hours.

It is recommended to decorate the walls in rooms with high humidity with ceramic tiles. The result is an excellent waterproof coating that will last for many years. The surface of the material is not susceptible to chemical attack, so a variety of cleaning agents are used for cleaning.

Step by step plan for laying tiles on walls will help to avoid common mistakes and unnecessary costs.

  1. Calculate the number of tiles. Use a tape measure to measure the width and length of the walls and calculate the area. Add another square to the resulting value.
  2. Choose your tiles carefully. The surface should be flat, without flaws or kinks.
  3. Plan your paper layout ahead of time so you know where you will need to trim.
  4. Prepare the walls before laying. According to the rules, they should be leveled and primed. The quality of the installation depends entirely on the evenness of the walls. Plasterboard or plaster will help to align curved walls.
  5. After completing the work on leveling the surface of the walls, proceed with the installation. It is recommended to use special glue and a tile cutting device.
  6. Attach a tile to the wall in order to lay out the first row as evenly as possible.
  7. Using a notched trowel, apply the adhesive to the tiles and spread over the surface. If the wall is even, the thickness of the adhesive layer is within 5 mm. If there is a curve, the layer thickness is increased to eliminate the deviation.
  8. Attach the first tile to the rail and the corner of the room. Glue the next one horizontally. Using a spirit level, check the vertical and horizontal.
  9. Crosses are inserted between the tiles to get an even seam.
  10. Lay the tiles row by row. After 5 rows, pause to allow the glue to dry. Remove the adhesive mixture that comes out through the seams.
  11. When finished, wait 24 hours. Then, without fear of rubbing the seams with a special compound. It is recommended to apply grout with a flexible trowel.

Instructional video

After carefully reading the information, proceed to laying the tiles. If the result of your work turns out to be far from ideal, do not be discouraged, because the savings and precious experience are worth it.

Putting tiles on drywall

In rooms with high dampness and temperature changes, drywall is used to level the walls. This construction material by leveling the wall, constructions are built from it that cover the wiring, sewer and water pipes.

Special rules have been developed for surface preparation and laying tiles on a wall made of plasterboard.

  1. Make a crate under the drywall. The base is mounted using a bar or metal guides. Pre-coat the tree with a special moisture-resistant impregnation.
  2. Screw drywall onto the crate. The distance from one screw to another does not exceed 20 cm. As a result, the drywall will not warp under the weight of the tiles and the masonry will remain intact.
  3. Use a primer. If you are priming the walls with a roller, use a special mold to squeeze out excess liquid.
  4. Apply the primer to the drywall in two coats. After completing the procedure, wait a little for the surface to dry.
  5. Putty the joints and screw heads. Use gypsum plaster and a narrow spatula.
  6. Wait for the plaster to dry and remove any unevenness with a sandpaper. Prime the sanded areas.
  7. Lay out the tiles on a sheet of paper to calculate how much finishing material is required. Buy tiles in the store with a stock.
  8. Prepare the glue. As part of a simple procedure, it is important to adhere to the proportion indicated on the bag. Stir the mixture using a drill and a mixer attachment.
  9. The finished mixture is applied to the wall in an even layer with a spatula. Then a special scraper is carried out in place, resulting in furrows. In this case, the material will adhere well to drywall.
  10. Start laying from the bottom row. Check the vertical and horizontal lines with a level. Tilers recommend using plastic crosses to achieve even seams.
  11. Take a break after laying 5 rows. While you are resting, the tile will stick to the base.
  12. After finishing laying the tiles, wait a day. Then apply special grout to the joints with a small flexible trowel. Remove excess grout immediately with a sponge.

If it seemed that laying tiles on drywall is a difficult event, believe me, this is not so. Gain confidence and patience and get to work. After a few hours of practice, your actions will become more confident. The main thing is not to rush.

Laying tiles in the bathroom

Many companies offer a turnkey bathroom service. The service is noteworthy, but also expensive. It is more profitable to learn how to lay the tiles yourself at home.

Before starting the main work, work with a pencil and a ruler. Based on the measurements obtained, create a surface plan and determine the location of the tile. Be sure to mark the location of friezes, borders and other decorative elements.

Strive so that narrow strips of tiles do not turn out in the corners of the room, since this looks ugly. Also decide on a styling option and size. After completing the calculations and calculations, get to work.

  1. Prepare the walls by carefully leveling them. A smooth surface largely depends on the initial state.
  2. If the wall, which you intend to tiled, has been painted earlier, remove the paint completely. The adhesive does not adhere well to painted surfaces. It is recommended to knock down the paint with a perforator with a special nozzle. The use of the tool ensures high working speed. True, it is accompanied by noise. If there is no punch, use a grinder with a special attachment.
  3. If mechanizing the work does not work, a hatchet or spatula will come to the rescue if the paint layer is weak.
  4. Remove debris from the wall and prime twice for greater reliability.
  5. Before starting tiling work, solve the issue with communications. It concerns sewerage, wiring and water supply. An impact drill will make the task easier. The indoor temperature should be above 8 degrees.
  6. Start preparing the glue. Pour the dry mixture into a bucket of water in small portions and stir with a mixer. See the packaging for the proportions.
  7. For the glue to adhere well, soak the tiles in water for 10 minutes.
  8. To obtain the most even masonry, it is recommended to use a level. Place plastic crosses between the tiles. They will help to make the seams as smooth as possible.
  9. To ensure evenness and quality of the tiles, lay out the first row correctly. This will help the water level and metallic profile attached by marks.
  10. After leveling and priming the surface, start laying. Apply the adhesive mixture to the wall and spread with a spatula with teeth. Then attach the tiles to the wall.
  11. The tiles are laid on the wall from the bottom up. Having laid out the first row on the installed profile, proceed to the second row and so on to the ceiling. Check the surface plane with a level, as well as verticality. installed tiles.
  12. The tiles are laid on the floor according to a similar principle. It is recommended to start from the far corner and slowly move towards the door. To improve the convenience of masonry, use construction thread.
  13. After finishing the installation, leave the work for 2 days. Then start rubbing the seams.

If you are renovating a bathroom without help, fear not, be patient and move forward. Remember, all great masters in the past started out the same way. With a little practice, get your hands on and increase your skill level.

How to lay tiles in the kitchen

Everyone has to renovate the kitchen. The best material for cladding kitchen surfaces is ceramic tiles. Its service life is calculated for decades, and after cooking pork and beef, cleaning the kitchen is much easier.

True, almost always a person finds himself at a crossroads. One way involves attracting a master, and the second - independent work... Since the second option is cheaper, most people prefer it.

Preparation

  1. Prepare the room. Remove the obsolete coating from all walls and strip off the wallpaper. Remove layer oil paint from the wall is almost unrealistic. In this case, make notches on its surface and prime several times.
  2. Solve the issue with the wiring. Install the sockets at a height of 90 cm.
  3. Determine the level in the horizontal plane. It will help determine where the tiles will be laid on the wall.
  4. Having received the markings, fix a flat bar or metal profile.

You cannot solve the problem without tools. To lay the tiles, you will need a drill, a mixer nozzle, two spatulas, crosses, a cutter and a flexible spatula, a sponge. The list of materials is presented by tiles, glue and grout.

Styling

An arrow or a special icon is applied on the back of the tile from the factory. Lay so the arrows or icons point in the same direction. As a result, the discrepancy will turn out to be insignificant.

  1. Glue the tile to the wall, installing it on the previously nailed rail. Set it vertically by means of a level.
  2. Glue the top tile that the same way align to plane. To control the seams, it is customary to use crosses, the size of which depends on the desired width.
  3. The remaining material is laid in the same way up to the corner of the room. Immediately put the bottom row, then the top, crosses between them.
  4. In the corners, the tiles are cut using a grinder with a special circle or a tile cutter.

Holes for switches and sockets are cut with a drill and cutter. There is no need to rush to solve the problem.

Ceramic tiles are one of the best materials for finishing premises with special operating conditions. Such a cladding is not afraid of the effects of high humidity, temperature changes, abrasive loads, in itself it is very attractive in appearance, it is easy to clean. In a word, for kitchens, bathrooms, toilets - it's better not to find it. And what is more important - it is quite possible to cope with the process of laying it on your own.

Why does it make sense to try to do the cladding with your own hands? It's just that even if the surfaces for laying are perfectly flat, you will have to pay about the same amount for the services of the master as the cost of the material itself, and this is even in the best case. Such expenses are quite avoidable. After reviewing our instruction article how to lay tiles on the wall, the reader will have a clear idea of ​​all the stages of work, from the preparation of surfaces and the choice of tiles - to the sealing of the joints. And he will surely make sure that there is nothing supernaturally difficult in performing such a finish.

Preparation of surfaces for finishing

It is completely pointless to start facing work on an unprepared wall. Some novice home craftsmen naively believe that the layer ceramic tiles will reliably hide all the "ugliness" of the surface, and in the end you get a straight beautiful wall... They are cruelly mistaken!

What does the preparation process involve?

  • V mandatory it is necessary to get rid of the old wall decoration. It will not, for example, hold adhesive tiles on a painted surface. Completely excluded or even small fragments of them. If there was a tile on the wall earlier, then after dismantling it, all flows and drops of frozen glue should be removed.

  • The quality of the plaster layer, if any, is necessarily checked. All problematic, crumbling areas are removed immediately. It is necessary to tap the entire area, to identify the places of instability, which must also be removed. And most often it happens that if an exfoliating area is found in one area, then everything else will be pulled from it, that is, the plaster has to be knocked down completely.

  • In no case is it disregarded if traces of their biological damage are found on the walls - mold spots, fungal colonies, etc. Antiseptic priming is carried out on all surfaces without exception, but if this microflora has already settled, then you will have to carry out preliminary "treatment" of the wall

  • There should be no cracks or cracks on the surfaces. If they are identified, appropriate renovation work for their high-quality termination.

  • The wall should be flat, that is, it should be a plane, and not a twisted, heaped, protruding or concave surface. The tiles can be laid on the aligned walls without any problems. Yes, there are techniques for leveling walls precisely by installation. ceramic cladding... But, believe me, not even all experienced craftsmen they love to do this, since this task is extremely difficult. And if a newcomer is about to "debut", but there is nothing to even think about. It will be much easier to align - and the finish will definitely turn out to be of high quality.

There are many ways to align, and some of them, for example, using moisture resistant drywall or gypsum fiber slabs are not so difficult and will not take much time.

How to level the walls yourself for finishing?

Do not be intimidated by this task in advance. There are many technologies available that even beginners can quickly master. Moreover, for laying tiles, the ideal smoothness of the surface is not required - the correct geometry is enough. are discussed in detail in a special publication of our portal.

  • Ceramic tiles are most often installed in rooms with high humidity, therefore, it is worth thinking about reliable waterproofing. To a greater extent, this applies, of course, to the floor, but on the walls it makes sense to provide waterproofed"Belt" at least 100 ÷ 200 mm high from the floor along the entire perimeter. In addition, it is advisable to reinforce with waterproofing the sections of passage through the walls of plumbing and sewer pipes, areas around water outlets.

And in frankly "wet" areas of the wall, for example, around a bathtub, washbasin, shower stall, etc., it is generally better to perform a solid waterproofing. Approximate dimensional standards for these areas are shown in the illustration:

  • Finally, the wall must be thoroughly primed with a deep penetration compound. This measure will completely remove dust from the surface, eliminate the phenomenon of moisture absorption. That is, the wall material will not take water from the tile adhesive, allowing it to freeze in optimal conditions... The best adhesion performance is achieved. In addition, many primers also have antiseptic qualities, and such preventive treatment will never be superfluous.

If the absorbent qualities of the material are high, then the primer treatment is performed twice, always waiting for the first layer to dry completely. As a rule, the primer is applied immediately after finishing preparatory work... But if, for some reason, there is a significant gap in time between this stage and finishing, it will be advisable to apply the primer again - a day before the installation of the tiles. So a quality result will be guaranteed.

Drawing up a project and choosing the necessary tiles

It is clear that these two issues are closely intertwined. In this publication, we will not analyze design approaches to choosing the interior of a room - we will dwell only on some practical aspects.

Planning the placement of tiles on the walls

Of course, the owners should already imagine what they want to see in the end. Surely you have familiarized yourself with the approximate range of tiles presented in the store. That is, it remains for them to "fit" the selected collection into the specific dimensions of their premises.

Here you should not rely on the "eye". The best way- drawing up a graphic scheme for each of the walls separately. Moreover, if it is not supposed to be a continuous cladding with one type of tile, but with decorative inserts or friezes, or with division into sections. Some material manufacturers offer online programs on their official websites to optimally place tiles on the walls. If this is not possible, you will have to sit on your own or in a graphic editor, or just over paper diagrams.

  • In horizontal rows, you can start with a whole tile from one of the corners, that is, the cut edge will have to opposite side walls. Naturally, in this case the least noticeable angle is chosen. But you should immediately estimate, and which fragment will remain in the corner? If it is too narrow, then it will be very difficult, if not impossible, to remove this area neatly. And on the front side of the room, that is, attracting the eye of the incoming person, such an arrangement will also look very ugly. Therefore, it often makes sense to choose such an arrangement to start from the center of the wall - aafterfrom it is laid to the edges with the same trimming on both sides.

It all depends, of course, on the size of the wall and tiles. It often happens that the layout seems to be optimal when the vertical axis of the wall coincides with the center of the tile, and then there is a wiring to the sides with again symmetrical trimming along the edges.

The trimmed edges can be easily hidden by installing solid tiles from the corner on the adjacent wall. If in inner corner two cut edges will converge, then this can be solved by grinding one of them. On outer corners copes well with this task decorative corner... More details will be discussed later.

  • They also show the necessary "creativity" when planning vertical rows. So, laying looks not particularly advantageous, which will end under the ceiling with a narrow section. It is better to plan a solid tile for this place, especially since its upper edge is very often covered by a suspended or stretch ceiling.

And here narrow section it is quite possible to start up first from the floor - there it is hardly noticeable, and the cut edge of the tile will not be at all visible in the corner between the floor and the wall. More precisely, this bottom row is generally recommended to be laid out last, so that no problems with accurate pruning are foreseen. All this will be shown below.

However, other circumstances may influence the choice of the starting horizontal line. It can be features design project(for example, the use of contrasting rows or friezes), and the placement of plumbing fixtures. For example, it is always recommended to place the tiles near the bathtub so that the horizontal seam is hidden below the side by 20 ÷ 30 mm. This will not violate the aesthetics of the styling, and will remove the vulnerable seam from the "wet" area.

  • When planning the placement of rows, vertical and horizontal, do not forget about the thickness of the tile joints. Let it not seem like a trifle: when using not very large tiles, but on the wall large area- the difference is considerable.

Too large thickness of the joints is often not required when laying on the wall. Usually limited to gaps of 1.5 ÷ 2 mm. Moreover, after grouting with a fugue, the visual effect of thickness will change somewhat - the gaps will seem wider.

  • It is clear that when drawing up diagrams, it takes into account the number, size and location of inserts - friezes, borders and other decorative elements. If a fully-fledged plan for each of the walls is constantly at hand, then during the installation process there is much less chance of making a mistake.

Some of the nuances of choosing ceramic tiles for walls

Wall tiles are much easier than floor tiles. The indicators of its strength, abrasion resistance, roughness, etc., are fading into the background, since they do not play a decisive role here. You can concentrate on decorativeness and, of course, the quality of the material.

We will not talk in detail about all the intricacies of the choice - this is a separate topic. But some important points it should still be emphasized.

  • There is a very wide variety of formats on sale. But you should not immediately chase the tiles. large sizes... First, it doesn't look appropriate everywhere. Secondly, when laying it, a lot of waste can remain, and since it is usually not cheap, it turns out to be expensive. And thirdly, the installation of such a cladding requires some experience, and a novice master may not cope with the task - any mistake will be in plain sight.

If the first is coming self-styling tiles, it is better to proceed from its average size, for example, up to 300 ÷ 400 mm along the long side.

  • should have a water absorption of no more than 3% - this is usually indicated on its packaging.
  • If wall cladding is planned in unheated rooms or even on the street, then you should look for the material marked with a snowflake pictogram - it is not afraid of freezing.
  • Without fail, all purchased packages of tiles of the same type are checked for consistency. The fact is that the same article, but released in different shifts, may slightly differ in the color tone. Visually, this is most often not noticed in the store. But after laying on the surface, even a slight difference can spoil the overall appearance.

  • Of course, they try to purchase tiles as much as possible. high grade... Even at factories, products are sorted, and products with distorted shapes are sold as second or even third-rate. With them, you can be exhausted when styling.
  • Manufacturers also sort tiles by caliber. It is clear that they always try to bring the dimensions closer finished products to the declared standard. However, the specificity of ceramic production does not yet allow achieving a unique coincidence of the sizes of all tiles without exception. The tile packaging may indicate its caliber - letter or numerical designation, and attached a plate with its decoding.

It is clear that tiles of the most accurate caliber have a higher price. But all preference should be given to her, since unjustified savings can lead to an unsuccessful finish, and in as a result the total costs will be clearly negative.

  • In any case, it will not be possible to do without tile waste. And sometimes it becomes impossible to acquire the missing quantity - the right party may not remain on sale. That is, the stock is made in advance. Usually they start from 10% - with a competent layout and high-quality cutting of the material, this is enough. If it is supposed diagonal layout, then the stock can be increased up to 15% - anyway there will be more waste. But we note right away that it is not recommended to get involved with diagonal installation without good work experience. Therefore, in this article, intended more for beginners, it will not be considered.
  • Do not hesitate to ask the store to inspect all purchased tiles - there is no guarantee that they will not be damaged in transit. Yes, and an obvious marriage sometimes comes across.

  • Even top-notch tiles of the same batch and the most accurate caliber should still be carefully sorted into several groups at home. The highest quality, with perfectly matching dimensions, is best set aside for facing the most visible critical areas. The tile is a little worse - to push aside "to the periphery". And the one that has the most significant dimensional distortions or with small defects can already be used for cutting to fill areas along the corners or the floor.
  • The number of tiles is usually calculated per piece. This can be done if a high-quality scheme is drawn up. And all the more you have to do this when it is planned to use several varieties to create a special decorative effect of the interior.

But in the case when it is supposed to cover the entire area with one type of material, you can also use the calculator, which is located below. There it will be necessary to indicate the area of ​​the finish, the dimensions of the tiles and the width of the tile joint. The spare 10 or 15 percent will be taken into account when choosing the allocation principle.

06-02-2015

Tiled walls are a very successful and durable finish. If the work is done with high quality and in accordance with all the rules, then you can get rid of the repair for 20, or even 30 years. In addition to saving on repairs, tiling allows several times to simplify the maintenance of the surface of the walls and floor.

Tiles are currently available for purchase, appearance which other Decoration Materials such as wood, a natural stone etc. Therefore, the aesthetic side of finishing a kitchen or bathroom will be at a high level. If you want to get an even greater percentage of savings by choosing tiles as finishing, then do this work yourself. How to lay the tiles will be described below.

Getting started: features

Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory work. These include the measurement of the area, which will be finished with tiles. Using a tape measure, we take the necessary measurements horizontally, vertically, and also diagonally. Basically, this process should be carried out especially carefully so that during the work you do not expect unexpected surprises.

The geometric parameters of the room can be checked very easily using wooden beam... A more accurate way to detect vertical deviations is to use a plumb line. Its structure consists of a rope from ceiling to floor, at the end of which a load is fixed.

Horizontal parameters are checked using the factory production level or homemade. In case of significant deviations, it is necessary to level the walls with a plaster layer.

If you decide that alignment is not necessary, then puddles will form in the grooves on the floor, and the tiles on the walls will look ugly, since serious drops are not just striking, but also exert their own Negative influence on the quality of the masonry and its durability.

The next stage includes the creation of a drawing on which there will be a floor plan with a designation of a scheme for future finishing. Tiles on the floor, walls and all difficult areas in the plumbing area and so on must be indicated in the plan.

When performing calculations for the required amount of materials, it is necessary to slightly increase the result obtained, since anything happens in the process. You can accidentally damage the tiles, or you may come across a defective specimen.

Purchase tiles in the right amount you need it right away, because over time, the store may no longer have the colors you need.

Back to the table of contents

Selection of materials and preparation of tools

Choose the grout to match the color of the tile.

The choice of tile adhesive also has its own characteristics. It should be designed for the conditions in which the tile is supposed to be used. For example, a bathroom or kitchen work area involves the use of a special glue that is resistant to moisture. Simultaneously with the purchase of glue, you need to purchase a grout that will match the shade of the tile. If your project does not have plans for the use of colored grout, then you can purchase a regular formulation.

In addition to the materials listed above, for laying tiles with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

  • construction mixer. It is useful for the process of mixing various kinds of compounds, for example, primers. If you do not have a construction mixer, you can use the usual electric drill equipped with a special mixing nozzle;
  • notched spatula. The size of this tool directly depends on the size of the tiles chosen for laying;
  • a spatula 10 cm in size, with it you will apply the composition to the notched tool, you can also use a trowel;
  • you will need a tile cutter to cut the tile. If not, you can use a regular glass cutter;
  • if the scope of work is very large, then you will need a grinder to speed up the progress of work and facilitate the process of trimming tiles;
  • another spatula, but already rubber. It is used to apply grout to the finished surface.

For beginner inexperienced craftsmen, the most suitable and easy to implement will be the way of laying tiles, which is called "seam in seam". There are, of course, other, more complex methods, but the first time it is better to start simple. If the finishing involves the use of decorative details (borders, friezes, etc.), then it is necessary to think over their location in advance. Acquire these decorative elements also needed with some margin.

Back to the table of contents

Prepare the surface for tiling

Only in the case of a perfectly prepared surface, the quality of the tiling and its durability will be guaranteed to you. For this purpose it is necessary:

  1. Carefully check the entire area of ​​the treated surface for the quality of the plaster attachment, and if weak spots are found, clean the wall up to the brickwork.
  2. Dismantle all plumbing fixtures, this way you will exclude their damage during operation, and the finishing will be simpler, since nothing will bother you.
  3. Walls that are already tiled must be freed from the old coating.
  4. When doing this work, take care of protection for your eyes and hands. If the walls have a layer of paint on their surface, it also needs to be removed, this can be done using a perforator.
  5. After all these procedures have been carried out, you need to start the process of leveling the walls.

The tile has practically no competitors in the field of interior decoration with a pronounced high level The solution to save on repairs is one of the most important decisions, many things can be done independently without the help of strangers. One example, laying tiles on the floor, is a task that many can do. All that is required is diligence, attention to detail, knowledge of theory and its application in practice.

Thorough laying of tiles on the floor

The geometric shape of ceramic tiles directly affects how they are laid. At the traditional way the tile is laid in exactly rows, it requires careful and accurate installation, since the slightest deviation will be immediately visible.

Styling floor tiles v different rooms private houses or apartments is a very popular type

If the room is with high traffic, then it is recommended to use the whirlwind method. If there is a chess layout, or traditional, then you can lay out diagonally. In rooms with disturbed geometry, you can lay a Christmas tree. If the tile will lay down with a border and a pattern, then first a laying scheme is made, and then installation is carried out.

When we put the tiles on a cement mortar, it is necessary:

  • Soak in water for at least 8 hours.
  • First, you need to conduct a test on a piece of tile, if it is of poor quality, then stains may appear under the enamel.
  • After 2 days, it is necessary to check the sample, if everything is normal, then you can proceed with the installation of the floor.
  • If stains appear, then you can limit yourself to wiping the back of the tile with a wet rag.

If the ceramic tiles are placed on a cement-sand composition on a concrete floor, then the work is simplified. Water is poured onto the concrete floor, then cement is poured through a sieve, tiles are applied to the resulting mess.

Instructions: how to properly lay tiles on the floor

Laying ceramic floor tiles is not much different from the technology of installing tiles on the wall. Floor tiles are much easier to lay beautifully. To choose the right layout method, you need to put 1 row of tiles on a dry floor along one of the walls.

Much depends on the availability of quality material, tools and surface preparation

With the diagonal layout method, you need:

  • Connect 2 opposite corners;
  • Draw long line On the floor;
  • Determine the center;
  • Tiles are being laid.

If the room has a strict geometric shape, then lay the tiles from the corner or from the center. The adhesive must be applied evenly to the back of the ceramic tile with a notched trowel so that no voids are left. Pressing the tiles must be very strong. For evenness of the seams, plastic crosses should be mounted on the floor at the same time between the tiles.

The crosses are removed only after the glue has completely dried.

When installing tiles, you need to monitor the horizontalness of the surface, this is done using a building level. If the tile has dropped lower, it is worth adding glue, if on the contrary, then remove the excess glue. The seams are rubbed after the glue has completely dried using a special solution. For application, you can use a rubber spatula, the excess is removed with a damp sponge.

Laying tiles on the floor

First you need to understand in which room the floor will be laid, the choice of tiles will depend on this. Each room has its own type of tile. The tile has a number of properties that meet the requirements of hygiene, so it is often used in bathrooms and toilets.

When choosing a tile for the floor, be sure to take into account the purpose of the room - this will help not to overpay for the operational properties of the material

V sanitary facilities it is necessary to ensure that the floor is not slippery, for this you need to choose tiles with a corrugated surface, or with an anti-slip effect.

In rooms with high traffic, it is necessary to use the tiles with the greatest thickness. Clinker and porcelain stoneware differ in that they have a low percentage of abrasion and high strength, as well as a wide range of colors and surface texture.

Briefing:

  • First, there is a marking of the surface, thanks to it, the work boundary and the position of individual control fragments are indicated.
  • The perimeter is marked with a thread or laser level.
  • An angle of 90ᵒ from the far corner is measured.
  • It must be borne in mind that the distance between the extreme tile and the wall is 1.5 cm.
  • The trimmed tiles are placed at the edges.
  • To visually assess the future surface, you can draw a diagram on paper, or lay the tiles on the surface first.

Next, you need to prepare a solution. Either a cement compound or ready-made glue is used. You can prepare the cement mortar yourself. To do this, you need to use clean sifted sand, cement and water. The finished mixture must be prepared strictly according to the instructions. With the help of a ready-made mixture, it is easier to lay tiles, it contains all the necessary additives that provide a stronger adhesion to the surface.

The tiles are cut first. This requires a pencil, tape measure, and cutting tool... Cut marks are made on the back of the tile. Glazed tiles are cut only from the front side. To trim the tiles, you can use a special electric or manual tile cutter, but you can also use a grinder or glass cutter.

Laying floor tiles with your own hands is a time consuming business and requires special knowledge and skills.

After the preparatory period, you can start the main work:

  1. Apply the adhesive evenly to the floor with a notched trowel, approx. 4 tiles. With small differences, the glue must also be applied to the tile.
  2. From the far visible corner, the installation of the tiles begins strictly according to the markings, slightly pressing the part.
  3. Use a rubber mallet to tap on top of the tile to expel air and compact the glue.
  4. With the help of the level, all errors are removed
  5. Plastic crosses are installed between the tiles at the seams. In this way, the tiles of each row are laid.

Finally, grouting is performed. To do this, apply ready-made composition, as well as a rubber spatula. A small amount of grout is applied to the joint area, tamped tightly deep into the seam with a spatula.

The recesses are pretreated with antifungal impregnation to ensure better adhesion, and are additionally moistened with water.

Excess mixture is removed with a spatula, then wiped with a rag. Additionally, the already hardened putty can be treated with a water-repellent liquid. All joints of the tile with furniture, plumbing must be sealed with silicone.

Lessons: how to quickly lay tiles on the floor

Work before installing ceramic tiles should begin with preparation working area... To begin with, the surface is freed from all that is superfluous.

If you want to lay the tiles not only quickly, but evenly, correctly, then, provided that the entire room is finished, you need to start with the floors.

Removed:

  • Furniture;
  • Old base;
  • Rubbish.

The floor must be clean and dry. After that, it is necessary to make waterproofing in order to protect the concrete from excess moisture, for this it is necessary to use bitumen or film, but the easiest way to paint the floor, while capturing part of the wall. The next step is to level the surface with a screed. For this, using the level, it is necessary to determine all the differences. If the differences are insignificant (no more than 3 cm), then they can be corrected without screed by applying an additional layer of glue.

After that, the surface must be primed and treated with an antiseptic impregnation.

It is necessary to take the building level, measure the distance from the wall equal to the tile, minus 2 cm. On this horizontal line, it is necessary to fix the timber, from which the tiles will be laid up. In this method, the installation will be carried out very quickly and efficiently, since initially the glue is applied directly to the floor. You just need to press the tiles harder and monitor the horizontal level of the tiles to be laid.

Strong mortar for floor tiles

You need to dilute the finished dry mixture yourself strictly according to the instructions that are attached to the composition or printed on the package. To prevent lumps from forming, you do not need to pour water into the powder. But if you do the opposite, carefully add the composition to the water, stirring with a drill nozzle, then the mixture will turn out to be a homogeneous mass and of high quality. It is necessary to stir the solution twice: immediately during preparation and before application.

Pure cement is the most popular type of material, simple and affordable to work with.

It is necessary to monitor the temperature of the added water, it must be at room temperature, otherwise the mixture may lose all its adhesive properties. It is also necessary to monitor the temperature in the room, it should be from 18 to 24 ᵒС. To avoid loss of the mixture due to its fast drying, it must be prepared in parts. When using dry ready mixes, the tiles must not be soaked and the subfloor must not be moistened. In this case, the floor only needs to be cleaned of dirt and unnecessary items.

For the preparation of cement mortar, use well-sifted dry sand, to which is added required amount cement. Then water is slowly added, and the whole mixture is mixed. Supplements can be used if desired. To check the desired consistency of the solution, you need to take a little sweep with a trowel. The mixture, when properly kneaded, should be plastic and hold onto the trowel without dripping. The density of the solution depends on the size of the tile, if the tile is small, then the solution should be more liquid, for large - thicker.

How tiles lay on the floor (video)

You can put the tiles with your own hands easily and quickly, with correct styling, the service life of the surface, decorativeness and aesthetics of the cladding will delight for many years.

As with all finishing work, tiling begins with a thorough preparation of the substrate. First of all, you need to start by removing the old tiles. To do this, we need a punch perforator. The sequence for dismantling the tiles is as follows:

    Use a sponge to moisten the joints between the tiles.

    Clean the grout from the joints with a metal trowel.

    By inserting the punch of the punch into the seam between the tiles, remove the tiles from the wall. It is better to dismantle the tiles from top to bottom.

The tile can be removed in another way - with a hammer and chisel. First, the seams, as in the previous method, are moistened and cleaned of grout. Then a chisel is inserted under the top tile and the tile is knocked off with hammer blows. However, this process is more laborious than using a hammer drill and will take longer.

How to put tiles on the wall

After you have removed old tiles, thoroughly cleaned the walls, leveled (if necessary) and primed them, you can put tiles on the wall.

Surface marking

It's worth starting with the markup. Using a level, draw a line that marks the height of one tile from the floor, remember to keep the joint width in mind. If you glue the tiles, starting from the second row, then a metal profile or bar is installed on this line so that the tile has a support.

If you are laying tiles on the walls after laying the floor tiles, then you can start laying from the first row.

But if you initially lay the tiles on the walls, then it is worth laying them starting from the second row. The first row is left at last so that it covers the floor tiles.

Putting the tiles

So, you marked the walls and prepared the glue according to the instructions on the package. We apply the glue to the walls with a notched trowel. Apply glue to small area, no more than 1 m², otherwise you will not have time to stick the tiles 0150 glue quickly hardens. Next, we apply glue to the back of the tile and press it firmly against the wall.

Important! The tiles on the walls must be laid in horizontal rows, on next row can only be skipped after finishing the previous one. Check the horizontal rows with a level. Use spacer crosses to ensure that the seams between the tiles are the same.

Approaching the edges of the walls, it is often necessary to trim the tiles. For information on how best to do this, read the article How to cut ceramic tiles.

Grouting

After the tile has hardened, you need to wipe the tile joints. To do this, a grout mixture is diluted, which is applied to the seams with a rubber spatula. For more details, read the article How to grout tiles.

After everything is dry, wipe the tile with a damp sponge. Wall tiling is complete.

Recommended to read

Up