Under countertop gas hob. Do-it-yourself installation of the hob in the countertop

When connected hob you may encounter problems that make you think not only an ordinary user, but also an experienced electrician:

• which cable to choose for wiring from the shield to the hob

• how to connect the panel in the electrical panel

• how to connect 4 wires coming out of the stove and 3 wires of the electrical wiring power cable

• how to connect correctly and not confuse the cable cores on the terminal block

Wiring cable for connection

First of all, understand for yourself that the hob must be connected by a separate electrical wiring line directly from the switchboard. It is not allowed to power it from an existing common junction box in the kitchen or already mounted sockets.

The cable must be three-core and copper, and it is up to you to decide which brand VVGnG-Ls or NYM. Which cable is better and how they differ can be read in detail in the article "4 differences between NYM and VVGnG-Ls".

The most important thing is to choose the right section. The set of rules SP31-110-2003, compiled on the basis of GOST and PUE, states that for plates it is necessary to choose a section of at least 6mm2.

But apparently this is about pre-installation wiring in the apartment, when it is not yet known what power the hob will be installed. Therefore, initially, a section of 6mm2 should be laid, sufficient to connect most of the existing models.

If your power is less than 7 kW, and you are sure that in the future you will not buy a new, more energy-intensive stove, then you can navigate by the following table:

But what if the cable has already been laid (VVGng-Ls 3 * 2.5mm2), but it turned out to be of a smaller cross section than necessary for the maximum possible power of the hob (7.2 kW). At the same time, there is neither the possibility nor the desire to re-strobe the walls.

In this case, you can protect yourself in two ways, although you will have to accept the fact that you will not be able to use the full power of the panel:

• install a circuit breaker in the switchboard based on the nominal cable section, and not the plate power (see the table above, according to the section)

• programmatically set the operating mode of the panel, in which it will not be possible to turn on all the burners at the same time

That is, if you still do not know what you will have hob, feel free to lay 6mm2. Just keep in mind that low-power panels have small terminal blocks that are not rated for 6mm2. And it is correct, it is not always convenient to directly connect such a wire, you can also break the clamp.

Connecting an induction hob in a shield

A prerequisite for the installation of the hob and oven is the connection of these devices through an RCD + machine, or a differential machine with a leakage current of 30mA.

Simple circuit breakers will not be able to provide protection in the event of insulation failure and leakage to the chassis.

• Zero core (choose a wire of blue color) - to the bottom terminal marked with the Latin letter N

• A vein of yellow-green color ( protective earth) to the ground bar

Socket and plug for hob

If you do not intend to run the cable directly into the panel, then you will have to install a separate outlet under it.

Fork use over convenient option regarding the maintenance and operation of the hob.

For example, when wet cleaning the panel must be de-energized. If you do not have an outlet, you will have to run to the shield twice and turn off the machine. And so he pulled out the plug, wiped the surface and connected it back.

The socket must be installed on comfortable height. The recommended distance from the floor is up to 90cm.

In this case, it is not allowed that the socket is on the same level with the hob. It is best to place it to the right or left of the device.

If you also want to install an oven nearby, then the socket must be located below the level of the oven. Usually this distance is at the level of the legs of the kitchen.

It is also impossible to do it too close to the floor, keep in mind the likelihood of flooding and water leaks!

What socket to take? With a low-power panel up to 3.5 kW (usually two-burner), everything can be connected via a euro socket and a corresponding plug.

However, it will constantly work at its rated power of 16A and most likely get very hot.

In addition, if you initially took a 3 * 6mm2 cable, then getting it to the plug contacts will be a big problem. Therefore, it is preferable to use special plug and a socket for stoves, designed for currents up to 40A.

If you have induction hob with a power of more than 3.5 kW, then connection through an ordinary plug and socket is all the more prohibited!

The location of the phase and neutral wires in the outlet does not play a significant role. The main thing is to correctly connect the ground wire (from above to the ground contact).

But when connecting the plug, it is desirable to observe the "polarity". It is not for nothing that manufacturers mark the terminals on which the phase and zero should go. But even if you confuse the panel, it should still work properly.

You will need a wire to connect the plug. It doesn't always come with it. In the absence of a regular one, it is necessary to purchase a three-wire PVA wire. The cross section of the wire must correspond to the power of the device (see table above).

Disassemble the plug body, pass the wire through it. Remove the insulation from the outer shell to such a length that its edge, after assembling the plug, is pressed down with a special clamp.

Stripping the veins and to ensure better contact crimp with a NShV tip.

Tighten the screw connectors of the plug:

A big inconvenience of such models is that they very much "bulge" out of the wall - by 5-7 cm.

Consider this point when assembling the kitchen in advance.

Panel connection without plug

If a socket protruding a few centimeters does not suit you and you want to carefully hide everything in a socket or junction box, then this can be done in two ways:

• through GML sleeves

• through the mounting box KLK-5S

First, let's define the wires. On many models, a connected cable already comes out of the panel, but it has 4 cores. And you have only three in the socket. How to be?

The fact is that such hobs are simultaneously designed for both single-phase 220V connection and two-phase 380V. In this case, one half of the burners will work from one phase 220V, and the other from the second.

Some believe that the second phase is used only for control power. This is not true. Power is distributed evenly over both phases. To connect the whole thing to the usual 220 volts, just remove one core to the side and isolate it.

There remains zero (usually a blue wire), ground (yellow-green) and phase (brown, black or other colors).

You can combine two phase wires into one through the lug. For example, in many Bosch panels, where the cable is not removable, this is how it was originally done.

There is also an option with a 5-wire cable. Such panels are usually high power from 7 kW and above. They are originally designed for 380V. To connect them to a 220V network, you need to connect two wires in pairs.

For example, put black and brown wires into phase, and blue and gray wires into zero. The earth is yellow-green remains solitary.

But if you strictly follow the rules, then such a connection is not entirely correct. Since the protective conductor PE must be of the same cross section as the phase conductors. And it will be twice as thin.

Sleeve connection

Now you need to connect the wiring in the socket to the cable going to the panel. Select the GML sleeves corresponding to the cross section of the cores.

If the cross-sections of the cores are different, for example, 6mm2 comes out of the wall, and 4mm2 goes to the panel, then on one side (smaller) the sleeve is sealed with an additional wire.

After that, the ends are pressed in with a press tongs and insulated with electrical tape or a heat pipe.

Now all this can be neatly hidden in the socket.

Connection via junction box

The sleeve is inconvenient because, firstly, the connection is not collapsible, and secondly, a special tool is needed for crimping. Not everyone has a press available, and such connections cannot be crimped with pliers.

In this case, help mounting box KlK-5S. In addition to a screwdriver, nothing is needed here, and the outgoing cable can be disconnected at any time.

True, her contacts can be quite delicate, so do not overdo it with the tightening force.

Besides, dimensions it, unlike powerful sockets, is small and the whole thing can be conveniently mounted behind the kitchen cabinets.

Connection is performed traditionally:

• zero via screw terminal N (blue wires)

• earth is indicated by the "ground" icon - yellow-green conductor

• three phase connectors on top. Extra phases, if you have 220V, recline and isolate.

Wiring diagrams for induction hob

After all the work done, you can proceed to the direct connection of the cable to the hob terminals. On the back of the panel there should be a sticker, drawing or graphic designation of the factory wiring diagram.

For a single-phase network, choose a circuit that is most often indicated as 1N.

According to this scheme, terminals numbered 1,2,3 and terminals 4,5 must be connected to each other by jumpers.

Such jumpers made of copper or brass should be included with the hob. Usually they are located in a separate "pocket", in the same place as the terminals.

If you do not install these shunts, then you will only heat part of the hob.

Often, the same problem can occur during operation, when one of the jumpers burns out due to poor contact and heating.

Before connecting, the insulation is removed from the PVA wire and the cores are crimped. Here you can use tips NShV, NKI, NShPI. Before installation, check whether there is enough free space in the terminal box for mounting certain tips.

Sometimes you have to shorten them, or even abandon some kind.

Jumpers are installed first. According to the diagram for a single-phase hob, mount them on terminals 1-2-3.

After that, connect the phase core to terminal No. 3 and tighten the contacts.

To connect zero, mount a jumper between the fourth and fifth terminals.

Insert a blue neutral wire into terminal No. 5 and tighten the contact.

last free vein- connect the protective earth to the connector with the "ground" symbol.

Here are a few connection diagrams for different models of Bosch, Electrolux, Zanussi, Hansa, Gorenje hobs:

If after connecting the panel starts to work in an incomprehensible way - it turns off by itself, after a few seconds it can turn on again. Do not rush to sin on the wrong installation.

It is quite possible that child protection is set in the program, water has spilled on the sensors, or the wrong buttons have been accidentally pressed. Some models have a dish recognition function. Until you put a pot on the burner, it will not heat up.

Another common problem is that only two of the four burners work, and the rest show residual heat (the letter H is displayed). This is due to blocking during single-phase connection of three-phase models.

Thus, power is limited by software.

Therefore, first, understand the documentation well and only then climb back into the connection terminal block.

Five common mistakes that can cause your panel to fail or cause a fire due to improper installation and connection:
1 Using an ordinary euro socket and a 16A plug for panels with a power of more than 3.5kW.

2 Connection through a simple circuit breaker with a thermal release, without RCD or differential circuit breaker. 3 Use of a smaller cable for powerful cooking surfaces (3*2.5mm for 7kW). 4 Connecting the hob and oven to a common junction box in the kitchen without a dedicated line from the junction box. 5 No phase jumper on one of the terminals. As a result, half of the burners may not work. Or the panel will not turn on at all if this contact was responsible for supplying voltage to the control.

In the era of new technologies, inconvenient and cumbersome gas and electric stoves comes completely the new kind kitchen equipment. These are cooktops. Such devices harmoniously fit into the design kitchen furniture, convenient to use. Installing the hob in the countertop with your own hands is a fairly simple process. If you have even small skills when working with a power tool, such a task is within the reach of a beginner. This can save you money on installation fees.

Choice of hob

These kitchen appliances practically devoid of flaws. All devices can be divided into categories:

• electrical;
• gas;
• combined;
• induction.

According to the material of manufacture:

• stainless;
• ceramic;
• glass;
• enamelled.

In this case, the panel may different number burners and their various arrangement on the surface. At the first stage, you need to choose the most convenient and suitable device. When ordering kitchen furniture, it is necessary to think over the place of installation in the furniture in advance. It is possible that an oven will be installed with the panel. Need to think first about connecting to the network: to gas pipe when choosing a gas panel and to the mains if an electrical device is preferred.

For installation of the electrical network in without fail provide for the cross-section of the power cable and the power of the socket, taking into account the current consumption of the panel and the possible oven specified in the instructions. Do not forget about grounding or protective grounding of metal parts electrical appliance. After preparation, you can get to work.

Do-it-yourself installation of the hob in the countertop is a simple process, accessible to a beginner . First you need to prepare all necessary materials and tools. Inserting the hob into the countertop begins with sizing. Further installation depends on how correctly and accurately the markup is performed. First you need to remove from the panel all the parts that may fall out during installation (these are the protective grill, burners, regulators).

Marking the table top

The dimensions for the technological hole in the countertop can be specified by the manufacturer in the instructions. If not, you will have to take measurements yourself. This is not difficult. To do this, you need to turn the panel over and take its dimensions, given that it should lie on the countertop around the entire perimeter. For convenience, you can make a template by cutting it out of a piece of cardboard according to the respective sizes. Then transfer the dimensions to the countertop using a long ruler, a square, or a prepared template. With maximum precision, to avoid curvature, draw a contour on the table top with a pencil or marker.

Window cutout for panel installation

After making sure that the markup is correct, you can proceed to cut the hole. Using a drill with a diameter greater than the width of the saw blade of the used jigsaw by 2 mm, drill 4 holes inside corners drawn outline. Insert the jigsaw blade into one of the holes and make a cutout in the countertop along the entire contour. To prevent large chips, you need to use a file with fine teeth or a hand mill.

Try on the panel to be installed into the resulting niche, align it. See from the side that everything is done smoothly. If everything is done correctly, proceed to the next the stage of cutting into the countertop. Now process the cut points sandpaper, file, rasp. If the worktop used is made of wood, be sure to exclude the possibility of moisture penetration. To do this, carefully treat the cut point with a moisture-proof material:

• silicone;
• sealant;
• nitrolac.

If the tabletop is made of plastic materials, such processing can be skipped. Plastic will not swell and swell from the presence of moisture. Can be covered in several layers for reliability. After the last layer has dried, glue the cut with a self-adhesive sealant. Preparation completed. You can do the installation.

Installation and connection

Installing the hob in the prepared window is not difficult. To do this, lower the panel into the hole. Using a measuring tool, align its position. After making sure that it is correct, fix it from below with special brackets and self-tapping screws to the countertop. Staples and self-tapping screws are supplied by the manufacturer as a set. It would be useful to use a seal around the perimeter of the installed device. Such a step will also prevent debris and moisture from getting under the surface to be installed. Usually, it comes with the product.

It remains to install in place all the previously removed parts and proceed to connect the energy carrier. If the panel is gas - it must be cut into the gas line. If an electrical one was installed, then it is correct to connect it to a previously prepared electrical network. It remains only to test it in work and use it comfortably. How to properly install the hob, you can see on the video.

Installing the hob: basic rules and recommendations

The joy of purchasing a hob is understandable - now a new beautiful and smart assistant will appear in your kitchen. However, in order for her to fully show her talents, she needs to know how to properly install the hob.

How to install a hob: general requirements

This technique is available in electric or gas format. This is reflected in the difference in panel mounting, but general rules before the process itself remain the same:

1. Mandatory attendance ventilation system. Modern rules hygiene and safety prescribe that there must be a hood above any hob. If this is not possible, then you should definitely install a fan with high power on the window.
2. The source material for the countertop can be anything - the main thing is that its heat resistance does not go below 100 ° C. This imposes certain obligations on the thickness, which should be within 25 mm (not thinner).
3. In the event that the installation is done between two cabinets, then you need to leave a distance from the wall of each to the plate of at least 15 cm. Up to kitchen wall the requirements are slightly reduced, but still you should not step over the threshold of 5 cm. If this rule cannot be observed, then it is imperative to lay a heat-insulating material between the wall and the panel.

Installing the hob in the countertop: process features

The surface of the countertop will have to be sawn through - the jigsaw is best suited for this. From the materials should be prepared:

• special sealant;
• self-tapping screws;
• clamps.

After compliance general requirements you can get to work. It will consist of observing the following simple algorithm:

1. The instructions usually indicate the dimensions of the panel. If it is not there, then you can measure it yourself, but you don’t need to do it tightly - you need to leave a gap of 1-2 mm between the panel and the countertop.
2. It is better to attach and circle the cardboard layout first.
3. The gaps between the hob and the edge of the worktop must be at least 5 cm.
4. Drill out the corners of the tabletop with an electric drill.
5. Saw carefully along the marked lines from one sawn corner to another.
6. Close the edges of the tabletop in the places of cut with a special sealant (comes with the purchase). It is also recommended to use silicone sealant which will protect the countertop from negative impact excess moisture.
7. Lower the hob into the resulting niche.
8. Align it, but do not allow too much effort.
9. Firmly fix the surface with special clamps, fixing them with self-tapping screws - this will hold the panel in one place.

Further actions in the event will depend on which connection method this technique has.

How to install an electric hob

Installing the socket for the hob

Of great importance in connecting such a plate is the initial check of grounding. Second important rule- This is a ban on the use of adapters and extension cords.

It has its own characteristics and installation of a socket for the hob. Its location must be taken care of even before the start of work, so that this moment does not distract. It is best to place it below the level of the countertop.

Very often in such a process it is dismantled kitchen set- this is necessary to prepare a new electrical wiring channel, strengthen it and close it with a cement or putty layer. Only after that, a hole is cut in the back wall of the furniture, with the help of which the panel will be connected to the outlet.

Following actions

They should go according to the following instructions:

1. An electrical cord with grounding is connected to the plate connectors.
2. The panel itself is connected to communications. It is possible to modify the power supply system.
3. A performance check is in progress.

If the connection is made to a single-phase network, then the work is supplemented following points:

1. A separate electrical line(it is better to take a three-wire 3x4 wire).
2. A special socket with grounding is installed.
3. A circuit breaker is installed.

Refinement of the power supply system is also very important - this significantly reduces both the breakdown of the device itself and the risk of injury. electric shock user. For its implementation, you should contact the experts.

More clearly similar installation can be seen in the following video:

Installing a gas hob

Due to the specificity of connecting such equipment, only an employee should connect it. gas service- poor-quality work by amateurs can lead to tragedy. The recommendations below are for them (and for those who have repeatedly connected devices to the gas main).

Connection Features

There is a difference between recipient jets for main or bottled gas. This must be taken into account when connecting. You can unscrew them with keys of 6.7 and 8. Those that go for main gas have a larger hole diameter.

Special flexible hose the panel is connected to a gas source. In combination panels, for additional security, it is worth installing thermal shut-off valve- it will shut off the gas supply if the temperature exceeds the threshold of 80 degrees (the second such valve will need to be placed on the gas cylinder).

After connection, all joints are checked for tightness. Usually a soapy solution is used for this - bubbles will appear on it if something is leaking somewhere.

Complex cookers for the kitchen, simultaneously combining a hob and an oven, are becoming more and more a thing of the past. Modern housewives less and less used for its intended purpose ovens. They are increasingly turning into a warehouse of pots and pans.

Why overpay money for an unnecessary metal cabinet, when you can buy a comfortable and aesthetic hob, and formed under it free space perfect for storing dishes and other things. Even an inexperienced master can install a hob in a countertop, because its installation does not require experience and qualifications at all.

Varieties of hobs

So, before proceeding with such a procedure as installing a hob into a worktop with your own hands (you can see the photo in this article), you should deal with the varieties of these devices. There are the following main types of hobs:

1. Electrical.
2. Induction.
3. Gas.

It is advisable to entrust the installation and installation of the latter option to a professional, since an incorrect connection can lead to serious problems. When using gas stoves indoors, special requirements must be observed. During installation electrical panels it is also important to observe caution and safety rules when working with high voltage. Quality power supply with grounding.

When buying a hob, it is important Special attention pay attention to it Since the installation of the hob in the countertop should be carried out with a small margin at the edges. In addition, you need to decide on the location of the tie-in. Spend in advance

Countertop installation

If you have purchased a glass or stone countertop, it is advisable to entrust its installation to professionals. Since you do not know about all the intricacies of the process, you can damage an expensive item. If you can handle the installation yourself, but with some building skills.

You will need the following:

• Grout for tiles.
• Tiles for facing the surface of the countertop.
• Mounting or tile adhesive.
• Tiles with tungsten coating.
• Gun with silicone sealant.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Waterproof wood board.
• A set of tools - a square, a screwdriver, screws.

Replacing the countertop should begin with the dismantling of the old one. Despite the fact that you will not need the old countertop in the future, you must remove it very carefully to avoid damage to the kitchen set.

It is very important to fit the new countertop to the dimensions of your furniture. It is likely that you will need to cut off the excess. In this case, the unprotected edges of the chipboard are exposed. This material perfectly absorbs moisture, so the saw cuts must be well treated with a sealant. If the countertop is mounted with saw cuts to the stove, it is advisable to close them with the help of special end strips.

Required Tools

Before proceeding to such a process as installing a hob in a countertop (photos show what they are), you need to prepare the following tools:

• Pencil.
• Roulette.
• Jigsaw.
• Drill driver with a drill for wood with a diameter of 8-10 mm.
• Sealant.

Preparatory process

To begin with, you should make sure that there are accessible sockets in the place where the hob will be installed in the worktop. The presence of an outlet, a suitable length of the gas supply hose, gas stove These are two fundamental aspects.

If the wiring is old and there is no certainty that it is reliable, it is recommended to run an independent cable for the stove directly from the meter.

Installing the hob in the countertop

1. First you need to make a hole in the countertop. To do this, according to the instructions, an opening is marked. If there is no instruction, then
   the full dimension is outlined, while on each side you need to retreat about 5 mm.
2. Using a drill, a hole is drilled so as not to go beyond the contour boundary. Then we continue to work with a jigsaw. To reduce chipping, it is recommended to take a file with fine teeth. In addition, you can paste over the contour with stationery or masking tape.
3. After the drank is completed, you need to paint over or sealant the sawn edges to prevent the countertop from swelling.
4. Next, the hob is installed in a 28 mm worktop, fixed and connected to the network.

Panel insertion must be carried out with maximum precision. Otherwise, even an error of 1 cm can ruin the countertop, which is one of the most expensive elements of a kitchen set.

Countertop made of artificial stone

Compared to their counterparts in Chipboard worktop from artificial stone is the most durable. Despite this, the main problem is the installation of the hob in an artificial stone countertop.

In most cases, an artificial stone countertop is ordered with pre-drilled holes for a specific hob. But what if the countertop is already installed, but the hob is not yet? AT this case the most reliable and the best option will give the countertop to qualified specialists who, using a professional tool, will make the necessary hole.

If you still decide to take the risk, then this work can be produced using the technology described above, but instead of a jigsaw, you will need to take an angle grinder and a diamond-coated disc designed for cutting concrete.

It is important to remember that self-installation hob in the countertop should be well thought out at all stages of installation. Only in this case, less time will be spent on this type of work, and their quality and subsequent result will significantly improve.

And again a photo-lesson for installation. This time I got my hands on a gas hob from Hansa. Not a bad company, by the way, had many years of experience with the stove of this company (albeit electric) - only pleasant memories.

The design of this panel is quite original - I liked it - on frosted glass fixed, as it were, separate burners ...

Instructions are also included. Here are some pictures of the installation. The first scheme, in my opinion, is rather useless.

The second scheme has much more practical value. We will be guided by her. True, this was not fully done, due to the peculiarities of the kitchen project. But more on that along the way.

We take a joiner's square and transfer these dimensions to the countertop. It was impossible to move the panel to the adjacent box due to the nature of the project, so I just moved it as far as possible from the wall (as a result, instead of the recommended 100 mm, I got 80 mm).

The next step is drilling out the marking angles with an 8 drill and connecting them with straight cuts using an electric jigsaw (it is better to use a file with a reverse tooth - the cuts on the front side are simply exceptional)

Since the panel should go onto the wall of the box, I took out the box itself and made a centimeter cutout on its side wall. By the way, after installing the plate in the tabletop, it turned out that I did it in vain on the left, it is thinner by about 4-5 mm and does not go beyond the thickness of the tabletop. But, guided by previous experience, I did just that in advance.

The instructions do not say anything about the next step, but I always silicone the ends of the chipboard in places where the equipment is tie-in. This case was no exception.

Now we take up the hob itself. We turn it over (trying to make the burners crumble at the same time - they can be removed in advance))) and paste a foamy insulating tape around the perimeter (it is included in the kit)
Now we need the help of a professional, namely a gasman, to make the connection. It is forbidden to do it yourself. But the lesson needs to be completed, so I will put the stove, and then I will take everything apart)).

It remains for us to push the plate into the cut out niche, align it and screw it with special clamps.

The instruction sees this process as follows:

True, the width of the tabletop did not allow us to do it as in the diagram, namely, to place one edge of the clamp into the cutout on the plate, and the second on the tabletop ...

But this did not affect the degree of fixation much ... As a result, you should get something like this:

By the way, this hood for the operation of auto-ignition requires connection to a power outlet.