How to attach a router to a table. How to make a milling table with your own hands? Add a rip fence

It is not difficult to make a milling table with your own hands, having in front of you the drawings, the necessary materials, fasteners. Some people think that it is better to purchase a finished product. Others are confident that a homemade table allows you to accurately adapt the work site to your needs, the nuances of a CNC machine or a conventional hand router. What to choose is up to you.

To make yourself a table for a router, you must first decide what kind of table it will be. Operating a milling machine may vary depending on a number of factors, including the dimensions of the machine itself.

Work on a table for a CNC milling machine begins with the fact that you choose which drawing will become the basis for manufacturing. It is not uncommon for work to be carried out without drawings. But then you yourself must draw the parameters of the future table, cut its elements using a circular. Select the components that will be required to make a homemade table based on its basic elements.

1. Construction type. Work outside the workshop, and with constant movements, provides for the choice of a portable table for a CNC machine or without software control. If the work will be carried out in the garage, workshop without the need to carry the table, you should choose a stationary table for your router. There is an aggregate type. This is an option when the table top of your milling machine is expanded or a rotary design option is made.
2. Table top. To make the top cover of your table, use chipboard or MDF sheets. These materials are easy to cut with a circular, so the work is not difficult. Many people make a homemade table using a pressed tabletop. But it is important to understand that when working in conditions of increased dampness, they quickly swell and become unusable. Alternatively, you can choose plastic. An excellent practical tabletop is created from polymer sheets. Metal is a tougher but heavier material. If you decide to choose aluminum, be sure to cover it with a protective varnish layer.
3. Groove and stop. Working on a milling machine usually involves longitudinal machining of the side of the workpieces. If you want to machine cross-face elements, the design must include a movable stop. This stop will move in the grooves. The groove will also serve as a fixation of the clamping elements of the structure.
4. Installing the router. Using a homemade table, the hand router can be attached to the table directly to the bottom of the tabletop or to a removable platform. The first option is easier to do, but if you choose the second method, you get some benefits in the form of easier removal of the cutter when changing cutting tools. In this regard, the mounting plate is a preferable option, which will take a little longer to tinker with.
5. Longitudinal stop. This stop acts as a guide for the workpieces. Therefore, the most important requirement is that the emphasis must be as even as possible. Since this is a homemade table, you can make the support using the T-slot. Pressing devices and other components are inserted into it, which make it possible to simplify the work on the machine.

All the necessary elements can be cut using a circular. Making a homemade table is not a problem. The table top, stop, guides, fasteners are clearly indicated by the dimensions if you use standard drawings. Taking a ready-made drawing, you can adapt a homemade table for a CNC machine for your own needs. Do what is best for you. It will not be difficult to find the drawings themselves, and the circular is probably in your arsenal of power tools, since you are going to make a table for a CNC machine.

Do it yourself

To make yourself a table for a hand router or machine tool with a CNC module, you will need the drawings and the necessary elements of the future design, which we described above.

When choosing a drawing for a future design for a milling machine, be sure to be guided by the dimensions of your machine, as well as the dimensions of the space available for placing the equipment. It makes no sense to make a large table for a small CNC machine, exactly, as well as vice versa.

You can always redo the drawing, make some corrections based on the available materials, machine features, the presence of circulars and other nuances. If you need a good coordinate table for a router, it is better to purchase it from a factory. It is quite problematic to make a homemade coordinate table.

We offer you the option of a small table, work on which will make it easy to place a small desktop router with or without a CNC module. The advantage of this design is that it is easy to do it yourself, it is small in size, and simple fasteners are used here.

1. It is recommended to make the working table and side posts from laminated plywood. The material must be thick enough to support the load. The approximate dimensions of the table top will be 40 by 60 millimeters. Not taking into account the corner stop, the height is 35 cm. The corner stop itself is 10 cm high. Instead of plywood, a metal or plastic plate can be used. The plate made of such materials is more durable and less prone to wear. But the metal plate will add weight, making the table not so mobile and lightweight.
2. On the surface of the countertop, make three grooves that will serve for the installation of the rails. Here, auxiliary components of the future working surface can be installed, which you may need to work with milling cutters or a circular milling machine.
3. To increase the stability of the leg attachment structure, reinforce it with chipboard or MDF No. 22 sheets. The table legs must be set at a certain distance so that there is room for fixing the templates and clamps with clamps.
4. You can close the machine mechanism by covering the bottom of the front panel with a sheet of plywood or other similar material.
5. Under the side stop, there must be grooves along which it can move. At the required place, the stop is fixed with bolts and nuts. Moreover, it is better to use wing nuts. In this case, you can easily remove the stop and put another unit in its place.
6. The stop is connected to the branch pipe, which is necessary for removing dust, chips during processing. For waste disposal, use ordinary corrugated hoses, which are widely used in the organization of sewage. A home vacuum cleaner can be connected through the clamp.
7. If you have a bench-top machine, it is better to provide a toggle switch for turning the machine on and off. If you do not have a desktop, but a simple manual router, such a toggle switch is not required.
8. The stop includes two elements that can move or move apart depending on the size of the working tool. Use wing nuts to secure the leaves. This design will make it easy to remove the milling device from the bed and change milling cutters as needed.
9. It is up to you to decide what material to use for the mounting surface for the CNC milling machine. Experts advise taking textolite or plexiglass.

A similar table for a desktop or hand-held milling machine can be made using a circular, an electric jigsaw and standard tools. The coordinate version of the table is much more complicated, because the work involves the use of appropriate drawings and materials.

Which table to choose for you - coordinate or ordinary home-made for a router with or without CNC, decide for yourself. The work must be carried out with high quality, observing all the specified dimensions. Watch the video instructions to help you determine which table is best for your machine.

It can be very difficult to cut grooves exactly and in size. For the manufacture of the legs of tables and chairs, milling, planing or drilling machines with special devices and moving tables are used. In the absence of stationary machines, the grooves are cut with a hand mill using a stop.

To cut a groove, it is necessary to adjust the entire system of tables and hold-down devices by eye, and the first time you almost always get an error. After additional adjustment, the error is eliminated, and parts can be backed up. It is difficult to hold a manual cutter with your own hands, and sometimes during vibration there are errors and arrivals towards the stop, especially when it hits a knot.

The problem is even more complicated if the part is single, or the groove is located at a great distance from the edge of the board.

Original idea

The table recommended in the article is light and small in size. It is quickly transferred, rebuilt and allows you to select grooves with great accuracy, high quality and without errors. Working with a manual router with the proposed table becomes simple and safe.

Important! The advantage and peculiarity of the idea is that with the help of a transparent plexiglass material, it is very quick and convenient to install the structure, combining it with the marks on the blanks.

The table for a hand router presented in the article is easy to make with your own hands.

Preparation for work

In order to make a table structure for a hand router, you must have the following materials and components available:

Materials (edit)

Components

Tools

The list of tools used in the manufacture of a homemade device:

• ruler;
• cutting knife;
• thick felt-tip pen;
• pencil;
• finger cutters 10 mm, 16 mm;
• conical cutter;
• manual frezer;
• carpentry square;
• clamps;
• 8 mm;
• head for chamfering on a drill;

The process of making a homemade table

Advice! To protect against chips, tape is glued in the slots. For this purpose, they also protect the places of drilling holes in plexiglass with a drill with a chamfer head.

After that, the tape is removed. With a simple felt-tip pen, sketch the line of the cut so that it clearly appears.

Two strips of 500x50 mm are cut from plexiglass for the manufacture of milling table guides. The edges of the guides are ground to reduce friction.

Further, in the lower side of the platform plate, 3 holes are drilled on both sides. Perform this operation with a drill with a chamfer head. Countersunk screws will be inserted into these holes from below. On one of the plexiglass guide strips, 3 holes are cut, respectively. Then one rail is connected to the platform and nuts and washers are attached.

A conical cutter is installed on a hand router. The milling cutter is pressed against the platform, while the end of the cutter is aligned with the line in the center of the platform, and the bolt is clamped on the guide. Repeat this operation on the other end of the rail and tighten all the bolts. The second guide is screwed in the same way.

Thus, the manual router slides along the plexiglass platform along the guides, which rigidly fix it on both sides, avoiding errors and errors.

Then, using a milling machine, cut a groove for the cutter, having previously marked its dimensions with a felt-tip pen on the platform. Since its width should be 1 mm larger than the largest finger cutter available, the groove is made in 3 passes.

At the next stage, it is necessary to make equipment from polystyrene for fixing the limiters. The stops slide and lock on a stop base that attaches to the table platform.

1. Cut polystyrene blanks on a circular saw.
2. The grooves are milled.
3. Drill holes for fastening.

The grooves are milled in the blanks of the limiters and inserted into the bases by threading the screws into the holes of the grooves. If necessary, the protruding screws are cut off with a grinder and the burrs are ground with a file.

1. Drill holes in the pressure bars.
2. A cutter is used to choose a pocket for the heads of furniture bolts.
3. Insert the bolts into the holes.

On the back of the platform, insert the bars so that the bolts go into the grooves for fixing the table. The lambs are screwed onto the furniture bolts and screws of the limiters.

The design of the milling table is made by hand and is ready to use.

The procedure for using a homemade table

Milling bars

1. The workpiece is installed from below, covered with pressure bars on both sides and clamped. Using the markings on the plexiglass of the platform and the markings on the bar, the structure is oriented so that the center of the bar is in the center of the platform. Clamp the lambs of the pressure bars. After that, the structure with the workpiece is clamped in a joiner's vice.
2. With the help of markings on the bars, and a conical cutter, the stops are set and fixed.
3. Moving a manual router along the guides from one stop to another, changing the depth several times, select the grooves.

Milling grooves on a board

You will need double-sided tape for this operation. The pressure bars are removed from the device.

1. Markings are made on the board with a pencil, tape is glued to the board and the platform is pressed against it in accordance with the markings.
2. Install and press the restraints.
3. The groove is milled.

The following figure shows the work of a hand router, carried out on bars and a board. The result of the assembly on the thorns is also shown. All dimensions are perfectly accurate, and the process lasted for an hour.

Conclusion

A home-made table for a hand router is simple to perform and has a low cost. Along with this, it is quickly installed on the part, and easily and flawlessly performs manual milling work. Using this device in the workshop, you can significantly increase the productivity of the carpenter.

Video

2. Glue the right leg WITH to the support B (fig. 1) and additionally secure with screws. Set the assembly aside. Cut the tsars I... Then make cutouts for the drawers in the middle support. How to accurately make such cutouts is described in "".

3. Using the cutouts of the middle support V, mark the width of the top divider F (photo A). File the shelf to the final width. Then determine the width of the bottom shelf G and file it (photo B).

FOR A PRECISE FIT, MARK ONE PARTS WITH OTHERS

Place the bottom shelf G on the middle support B, aligning the edges. Use the cutout as a template to mark the width of the front.

Align one edge of the top shelf F with the cutout and mark its width by placing a mark at the opposite cutout.

4. Glue the top shelf F to the middle support V by aligning its underside with the top edges of the cutouts (photo C). When the glue is dry, glue the bottom shelf in place G.

Cut out two spacers 108 mm long from the scraps and, aligning the bottom shelf with them, glue it to the middle support B.

The combination drill allows you to make countersunk mounting and pilot holes in one operation, without changing the tool.

5. After drilling the mounting and guide holes, glue the left leg D to the assembled node B / F / G and additionally secure with screws (PhotoD).

Quick tip! Using glue and screws, you can fasten several base parts at once. Screws speed up assembly because you don't have to wait until the glue is completely dry before attaching the next piece. Saw out the back wall J and, trying it on to the opening, make sure that the top edge is flush with the cutout of the middle support V... Glue the back wall in place and secure with clamps.

6. Glue the drawers in place I fixing them with clamps (photo E). Then fix the last support with glue and screws. V... When the glue is dry, mark the exact length of the top bar N (photoF) and glue the part in place (fig. 1).

Glue drawers I into the cutouts flush with the top shelf F. Then glue the left support B in place, securing it with additional screws.

To ensure that side bars I are parallel to each other along their entire length, mark the exact length of the top bar H by attaching it to the left side of the base.

7. Take the right leg again B / C and attach to the assembled left side of the base B / D / F-J using glue and screws (fig. 1). Then glue to the left and right supports V planks E fixing them with clamps. Use a sanding block to round off the upper outer edge of the left plank with a radius of 3 mm.

Milling table drawings

Measuring and marking out project details with a tape measure and a ruler can be difficult to achieve accuracy, especially if the actual thickness of the plywood differs from the nominal. Instead, for neatness, it is better to use the parts themselves or cut material to dimension the machine tools. Follow this method to make precise cuts for drawers I in the middle support B.

To adjust the cutout width, make a cut in the plywood trim by lifting the blade so that a small burr remains on the edge.

When adjusting the cutting depth, measure the distance from the stop to the outside of the saw blade teeth.

Attach a wooden overlay to the head of the cross (corner) stop and cut a cutout into the part in several passes. The rip fence serves as a stop for the last pass.

Take care of the lid

1. Take the cover cut out earlier A and mark its center by connecting opposite corners with straight lines. Use a hole saw to make a 38mm hole in the center of the lid (PhotoG).

Use the clamps to secure cover A to the workbench with a board to prevent chipping. Drill a cutter hole in the center of the cover.

Place the cutter base plastic on cover A and center it so that the power tool controls are accessible from the front.

2. Remove the plastic cover from the base of the router that you are going to install on the table and, using it as a template, mark the centers of the mounting holes on the cover. (photo H). Drill the holes and countersink them.

3. Saw out the cover strips TO... Mark the centers of the three holes on one of the planks (fig. 2). Drill 6mm holes (photo I). Glue the strips to the lid A and secure with clamps.

Secure both K-planks to a workbench by stacking them and placing a board underneath to avoid chipping.

Drill a 5mm diameter hole through the axial hole. Then make a 6mm hole on the right. The depth of the holes must match the length of the fastener.

4. Put the lid on A / K on the base and align the axial hole in the middle of the edge of the bar E focusing on the middle layer of plywood veneer. Then through the holes of the upper bar TO Drill a 5mm hole for the axle screw and a 6mm hole for the right locking screw (fig. 1, photoJ). Add washers and screw a 6 × 35 mm wood-grouse screw into the axial hole. Lift the cover up and drill a 6mm hole through the left lock hole for the setscrew that will hold the cover up.

Add a rip fence

1. Saw out the front wall and the base of the stop L... Mark out identical semicircular cutouts (fig. 3). Then, as described in the "Craftsman's Advice", carefully saw them out with a jigsaw. Glue the front wall to the base and secure with clamps.

2. Cut out the spacers M and clamps N... Glue the spacers to the clamps. When the glue is dry, place a stop L / L on the assembled clamps M / N, align the parts and drill 6mm through holes (Fig. 3, photoL).

With an anti-chipping board underneath, align the L / L stop over the assembled M / N clamps. After securing all parts with clamps, drill a through hole, then do the same on the other side.

Adjust the cross stop to a 45 ° angle and saw off two gussets from both ends of the strip. Set the 90 ° angle again to saw off two more gussets.

3. Cut out triangular gussets from a 19x76x305 mm plywood strip O (photo M). Glue them to the assembled stop (fig. 3).

Craft sturdy crates

1. From 19 mm plywood, cut two pieces of 100 × 254 mm for the front and back walls. R... Saw two back walls from one workpiece and set them aside. On the second workpiece, mark the cutouts of the front walls. (fig. 4) and carefully saw them out (see Craftsman's Tip below) before splitting the workpiece into the two front walls.

Quick tip! It is more convenient to make the cutouts before you start cutting out the front walls, so that the sole of the jigsaw does not rest on the clamps that hold the workpiece.

Method of cutting sharp bends with a jigsaw

Even having installed a file with the smallest teeth in a jigsaw, it is not easy to make neat cuts with a small radius, since the file gets stuck in the cut, heats up and burns are formed.

Try this method: before cutting the cutout along the contour, make frequent straight cuts from the edge of the part, as shown in the photo to the right. Then cut the cut out by cutting the file slightly off the contour line. As the saw moves forward, the small pieces formed by the straight cuts will fall out one after the other, without interfering with the movement of the saw and giving room to maneuver if a slight change in trajectory is required. Sand the edges of the cutout to the outline using a piece of plastic pipe wrapped with sandpaper.

2. Cut the sidewalls out of 12mm plywood Q and bottoms R... Set these details aside.

3. Attach the router to the underside of the cover A... If the original sole screws are too short, replace them with longer ones with the same thread.

4. Insert the 12 mm rebate cutter into the collet. Install the stop as shown in rice. 3. Mill 12 × 12 mm rebates along three sides of the front and back walls R... Replace the cutter and make rounds with a radius of 3 mm at the edges of the semicircular cutouts of the front walls.

5. Assemble the boxes by gluing the parts together and fixing them with clamps (fig. 5). Make pivot locks out of 6mm plywood trim S and sand on the fillet corners with a 6 mm radius. Drill countersunk mounting holes and attach the locks to the leading edge of the center post B (Fig. 1). Now insert the boxes, fill them with the boxes of cutters and you can start milling.

Usually, to perform some new work, new tools are required. As a programmer, this is well known to me, since for many years, for each new task, one has to create libraries and write utilities. These are the very tools with which the solution of the following tasks becomes easier and easier. Probably so in many areas, except for those where you have to create everything from scratch, using only knowledge and skills. (Maybe that’s why I don’t really like drawing, for example, that I’m used to using the previous developments).

I finally finished my milling table. (It took 7 evenings to create.) At first I thought to buy a ready-made one, but those that I found for affordable money and suitable for my work did not suit me at all. And I decided to make it myself for the manual router that I had Caliber FE-650E.

A milling table is a very useful tool for handicrafts. I hadn’t really thought about it before, but if you look around in any house, you can see a lot of objects that have been processed on a milling table: window frames, furniture doors, picture frames, wooden baseboards, door boxes, overlays, and so on.

First, as usual, I modeled in a 3D program. I did not copy someone's table, but developed a model for myself, having seen a bunch of ready-made similar milling tables on the internet. The idea is common, the essence is the same, the details are different, because everyone implements for themselves, using what they have and what they are capable of.

The side stop has slots and slots and can move back and forth and is fixed in the desired position with two thumbs. The chip collector is connected to the angle stop. (The milling cutter gives a lot of chips during operation) If required, the side stop can be easily removed and replaced by other devices or nothing at all.

The stop has two flaps that can move apart and move depending on the size of the cutter. The position of each flap is fixed with thumbs.

A regular vacuum cleaner hose is connected to the chip removal system.

This router model did not have a fine depth adjustment. It was necessary to put pressure on the router and catch the desired depth with a lock. (It should be noted that this is terribly inconvenient. You have to suffer by rearranging the depth several times to get to the desired one)

Modified the bed by adding the so-called "lift".

I drilled the bed and installed the adjusting screw with the high nut (In the picture in the center). By tightening the nut, you can smoothly adjust the depth.

This is how the depth is adjusted: the desired value is set on the square, and the cutter is raised with a key until it stops against the square.

The only remaining inconvenience is that this procedure requires two hands. It is necessary to squeeze the depth lock on the router with one hand and turn the nut with the other. I have a solution, but I haven't had time to implement it yet. When done, it will be possible to adjust the depth with one hand. And the clamp to hold the corner will no longer be needed.

Please note that the upper part of the side stand is specially designed so that various attachments can be attached to it.

In general, there are ready-made platforms for the manufacture of milling tables on sale. There are holes for specific models of the router, there are universal ones in which you can drill holes for your model yourself. The platforms are quite expensive (1500-5000r) and are much larger in size than required for my mini-table.

I made my platform for the router from plexiglass (6mm), removing my own plastic platform from the frame of the router.

Fitting the glass to the window.

First samples.

The cutter support is machined with a cutter on the left. To her, I worked the planks

By the way, the roller cutter does not require a side stop. This can be used to process edges on a bare table, although it is more convenient to have one more stop point, especially when processing cylindrical workpieces.

What is left for me to finish:
- Cut out a pair of glasses for installing larger cutters.
- Make hold-down devices that are installed on the side stop and the table top, ensuring that the workpiece is tightly pressed against the cutter.
- Improve the handy key for adjusting the depth of the cutter.
- Workpiece advance limiters (on the side stop).
- Special pusher feet for the workpiece (the Milling cutter is a dangerous tool. If I seriously injure my hands, it will be especially bad for me, because after that I will not be able to play most musical instruments).
- Special stop for working with edge cutters.
- Angle stop with a protractor, a device that allows you to move the workpiece at a certain angle using a rail.
- Slide for feeding the workpiece on the table at a right angle.
- Device for cutting "box joints".
- Trap container for chips. (The native bag of the vacuum cleaner clogs up very quickly)
- Well, and some other little things.

I hope that those who find it useful will find this post.

Other interesting posts about my DIY tools:

The presence of a milling machine will greatly simplify the process and the accuracy of processing products. It can be purchased ready-made in a specialized store, or you can save your own savings and make a table with your own hands.

With such a device, you can cut not only different types of trees, but also plastic, wood-based panels. Also, with it, you can independently make a curly selection of a profile, grooves, spikes and cuts.

With a DIY milling table, you can equip your workshop with a practical woodworking machine. All that is required for effective work is to attach the manual router itself to the product.

Type constructions, the milling table can be:

• mounted... This option is quite practical and easy to use. For this, a separate unit of the unit is attached to the sawing machine with clamps on the side. This design saves space. If necessary, it can be easily and quickly removed and left to the side;
• portable... This option is in great demand, especially if the workshop is small. Also, this type of design is suitable for those who often change their place of residence or take a router with them to construction sites;
• stationary... This option is suitable for a spacious workshop. This is a very handy model. Since with a stationary product, you can equip a well-thought-out workplace.

Material

For the manufacture of a milling table, you can use various materials:

Each individual option has its own advantages. The tree is distinguished by its high strength, reliability and durability. But you need to be able to work with this material. It is more difficult to handle manually, unlike DPP or MDF. And natural wood is much more expensive.

As for chipboard and MDF, these materials are more affordable in terms of price. They can be easily processed with hand and power tools and have good technical characteristics.

Drawing of a homemade milling table for wood

Before you start making a milling table, you need to make a drawing. It indicates the exact dimensions of each individual element and the materials of manufacture. As for the manufacture of a drawing, you can do it yourself, you can use special programs on the computer or, order from a furniture company... The last option is the most reliable. Since the specialists will make a competent calculation of all the details, with an accuracy of one millimeter.

Tools

To make a homemade milling table design, you will need the following tools:

• hacksaw;
• electric jigsaw;
• sander or sandpaper;
• drill;
• chisel;
• screwdriver or screwdriver.

Advice: The use of electrical tools will greatly speed up the manufacturing and assembly of the product.

From materials you will need:

• Chipboard or MDF. In order not to bend during work, it is worth choosing lumber with a section of 3.6 cm.For the side parts, chipboard with a thickness of 1.6 cm is suitable;
• plywood, textolite, metal (manufacturing of a mounting plate);
• the router is purchased from a specialist store.

An easy way to make a table for a hand router

Countertop manufacturing

First you need to prepare the parts for the table. They are cut with a jigsaw from the selected lumber, according to the drawing.

Advice: Detailing can be ordered from a specialized furniture company. Here you will be helped to immediately create a competent drawing and select lumber. The cost of services of a furniture company is fully justified by the quality and accuracy of work. All you need next is just to assemble the product according to the diagram in your workshop.

The process of making a milling table is carried out in the following sequence:

Important: whether to do for the design of the table or not is a personal matter for everyone. A worktop with an installed router can simply be fastened between two tables.

How to make and install the plate yourself

Since the tabletop of a homemade milling table has a decent thickness, the mounting plate should be thinner. Then you can maximize the overhang of the cutting tool.

Attention: the plate with the minimum thickness should be as strong and rigid as possible.

It can be made from metal or from a material that is not inferior in strength, for example, from PCB. The thickness of the PCB should vary within 4-8 mm.

The plate making process is as follows:

1. After checking the drawing, cut out a rectangular piece from the PCB sheet.
2. In the center of a rectangular part make a hole... Its dimensions should correspond to the hole diameter of the router base.
3. We connect the plate with the base of the router and the table.
4. For fixing the plates to the worktop we make clamps for the machine, which are located at the four corners. These dimensions must strictly correspond to the holes located on the instrument itself.

Work area equipment

After the manufacture and assembly of the milling table, it is recommended to think over a competent work area. To maintain the precision of milling, it is worth installing on the worktop:

• guides... They can be made from chipboard or from the same materials as the countertop. The guides are installed at right angles and are held together by four oblique stops.
• clamps... They can be made in the form of a wooden comb or from a ball bearing of the desired size and weight.

Finishing

After building a milling table with your own hands, to give the product an aesthetic appearance and to extend its life, you need all the working surfaces:

• grind;
• polish;
• bottom and sides - paint;
• open with varnish.

The electrical part of the product must be covered with a metal sleeve.

Photo

The result of the work may be a table that looks like one of the following

Useful video

A detailed description of the manufacturing process can be viewed in the following video:

Conclusion

In conclusion, it should be noted that the process of making a milling table is a rather responsible process. If you are sure that you can cope with such a task, you can save your own savings and make the product yourself. This will require: stock up on a well-drawn up drawing, the necessary materials and tools and free time.

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