Proverbs and sayings about May HORIZONTALLY: 2. May will deceive - in ... will leave.4 ....
Very often, old buildings require changes in the form of insulation. This happens for a number of reasons, including the choice of an imperfect design or a change in the purpose of the structure. This is especially true for outbuildings located on the site. So, a shed used to store a tool can be used for breeding animals. Accordingly, it is important to create the necessary conditions for raising poultry or livestock. Many of the methods used by the older generation are not effective and costly enough, so you should know how to insulate a barn.
Of course, it is better to think over all the nuances of future operation even at the stage of building construction, however, improvement can also be carried out for an existing building.
There are two main types of insulation:
- Furnace installation.
- Warming of the structure itself.
The first method involves the use of two types of heating devices - these are metal and brick. Each oven has its own characteristics, so when choosing, you should focus on their disadvantages and advantages. Experts recommend installing a metal device for periodic work, because it can quickly heat the surrounding space. And in the case of maintaining a household, use brick ovens that provide the required temperature for a long time.
In the second case, the walls, floor and ceiling of the barn are insulated using various materials. Long-known or modern technologies can be used, it all depends on financial capabilities and the desired result. But when choosing a material for insulation, you need to take into account its characteristics, many simply do not tolerate moisture. Therefore, you will have to take care of waterproofing, which will entail additional costs.
External insulation is a good choice
In order to insulate the barn for the winter, you can use improvised means, the work with which does not require special skills. The following set of measures can provide comfort for a long time, namely, you will need:
The second popular way is considered to be wall cladding with shingles, it gives a warm room with little or no investment. However, this technology is time-consuming, so it is worth considering in advance the appropriate option, the better to insulate the barn.
For this you will need the following materials:
- slats;
- nails;
- clay;
- water;
- sawdust or straw.
First, a kind of frame made of shingles is erected on the walls, the slats are stuffed from the bottom up diagonally, the next layer is nailed from above in the opposite direction. You should get a surface of crossed rails at an angle of 45 °. Next, a solution is prepared, for this, water is poured into the clay and stirred to a sour cream consistency. Sawdust or straw is added in portions, while the mixture must stand for some time.
Clay mortar is applied to the walls starting from the bottom row, the resulting layer should be 3-5 cm thick. For uniform application, a spatula is used, with which the mixture is pulled along the wall. Near the corners, the clay layer may increase slightly, while the surface is rounded off. Such plaster dries out within a few days.
Cracks appear on the plastered surface, but sand with clay in a ratio of 2: 1 will help to cope with them. From above, such insulation needs to be whitewashed with lime mortar.
To decorate the ceiling, a wooden box is built and the resulting space is filled with a mixture of clay and sawdust. For effective insulation, a layer of about 10 cm is made.
Internal insulation of the structure
Often they try to use technologies for external insulation - this is considered a simpler and cheaper way. But if it is necessary to insulate the barn from the inside, they buy modern materials, however, all surfaces must be smooth without significant flaws. Styrofoam, spray foam or mineral wool can be used.
In the process you will need:
- slats or timber;
- nails;
- insulation;
- vapor barrier film;
- sheathing material.
A frame for insulation is prepared from the slats, nailed wood creates cells into which mineral wool is embedded. A vapor barrier film is pre-stretched onto the walls, it will ensure the integrity of the insulation and the material from which the walls are made. Next, the laid layer is covered with boards, plastic or chipboard. This results in neat surfaces that do not require further finishing.
The above are the simplest ways to ensure the necessary conditions in the barn, it is quite feasible on its own. Of course, to install a furnace in a building, you need to have building skills and provide for all the nuances in the project for safe operation. But for external or internal insulation of the structure, it is enough to have improvised means and detailed recommendations. In order to know how to insulate a barn with your own hands, we offer the following video.
Often, in a subsidiary plot or on a small farm, it becomes necessary to insulate rooms, buildings where animals and birds are kept. Usually these structures are not capital, made of plank boards, plywood.
The purpose of insulation is to maintain a positive temperature throughout the winter without heating or with its minimum power - up to 2 kW per building of about 30 square meters, and also to make the insulation extremely cheap. But that doesn't mean bad. Savings occur on the finish, the "brand" of materials, the design of the fastening, and also because it is done by hand.
Simple slots - large heat leaks
It is necessary to insulate the chicken coop, barn, barn in a complex way. Most of the heat escapes with the exchange of air. No amount of heating can resist a draft...
First of all, you need to put a second glass on the sealant, if there is a window. Effective window insulation - for the winter, above the glass of 15 mm, install a plastic film over the slats on the sealant - a double-glazed window for a chicken coop. At a minimum, it is necessary to close the cracks in the windows, frames.
But there should be no non-adjustable gaps under the doors, windows - this is the basis of the insulation of any building.
How to insulate a chicken coop?
Where it is required to insulate a chicken coop, a poultry house or a barn, natural heaters are often “underfoot” in large quantities - straw, hay and wood shavings (small sawdust is not suitable). 
So that any living creatures do not start in them, they need to be prepared. You will need lime (fluffy, crumbly) and this is the main cost - one volume of lime per 10 volumes of material. And also - boric acid and copper sulfate - excellent anti-rotting agents.
In order for the material to be used in shields, it must be strengthened by adding 1 part of cement to 10 parts of the material. A solution is made with the addition of antiseptics and mixed with the required amount of chips, hay, straw. It is laid in shields, on overlapping in a wet state, drying gains strength. 
It is desirable to prepare hay and straw with a length of 20-30 mm, which is sometimes problematic and time-consuming. But it is the finely cut material that is easy to use and has the best heat-saving properties.
An alternative to all this is the use of foam, a very cheap insulation, especially if purchased in bulk. Sometimes it is cheaper, and most importantly faster and easier to install.
But lining with foam plastic will lead to a violation of vapor exchange in wood, structures may begin to rot and rot over time.
However, more often this is not critical for a chicken coop, besides, vapor barriers have to be used with other heaters, which also negatively affects the wood. Therefore, foam insulation of a barn, poultry house, chicken coop, as a very cheap insulation, can be recommended as a way out of the situation.
We insulate the ceiling in the chicken coop or barn
First of all, we insulate the attic floor. You will have to use a vapor barrier, you can use an ordinary dense plastic film. Without it, the insulation will get wet faster than dry. We cover with overlaps, over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe overlap with a twist on the walls. 
If nothing will be stored in the attic, then it is enough to cover it with treated (but without cement) hay-straw with a layer 20–25 cm thick. But if you plan to walk regularly, then it is better to make flooring on a crate at least 20 cm high, taking into account the ventilation. gap (insulation thickness 17 cm).
Polyfoam dense from 25 kg/m cube. with a minimum thickness of 12 cm, it can be laid without a crate in two layers with dressing of the seams in layers, and on top of it throw boards, plywood, on which it will be possible to walk.
When using foam, it is desirable to seal all the cracks with crumbs on polyurethane glue.
How to insulate the walls of a barn, barn ...
Plank walls need to be converted into shields. From the inside there should be a dense layer that prevents steam, from the outside - more vapor-permeable. If there is no dense layer of material from the inside, then it is advisable to apply a vapor barrier from the inside in front of the straw insulation, as well as on the roof.
The order of work is to install from the outside (or from the inside, which is better?) Vertical bars 12 cm thick with a step of 600 mm and between them pour organic insulation with cement in series with filling the missing lining from the bottom up. Cover the outer cladding with something water-repellent, for example, even oil-workout.
A feature of the use of foam on the walls is the absence of a vapor barrier and careful sealing of cracks. Dense foam can be glued to the walls, and on top of it some kind of protection from ultraviolet radiation and water can be glued - the same thin plywood that can be painted on top. The recommended foam thickness is 10 cm.
Thermal insulation of floors and ground
Usually in a chicken coop, a barn, a barn, the floors are made on compacted soil with some kind of backfill. Their insulation often comes down to adding natural (without processing) straw, hay, shavings for livestock. You just need to remember to turn the contaminated layer over, change it in time. 
The soil in winter is a natural heater for an outbuilding, a shed, a garage. A positive temperature can be maintained due to the heat of the earth. For this to happen, it is important to insulate the soil along the perimeter of the barn or poultry house to a width equal to the freezing depth in the area.
It is best to dig extruded polystyrene foam from 8 cm thick end-to-end to the foundation. But this is not cheap. Another option is all the same hay-straw 15-20 cm thick, covered from precipitation with shields, slate with a slope, and from the steam of the earth - roofing material. Or simply - hay with a thickness of 50 cm, covered with boards - piled up. Even when wet, such a layer will give the desired effect ....
As you can see, it is really not expensive to insulate a chicken coop or a barn. Such insulation, as a rule, is done by hand, but the laboriousness is not small, and the quality will depend on the thoroughness of execution ....
Often on a small farm or in a subsidiary farm for the winter, it is necessary to insulate a room that contains birds or animals. Most often, such buildings are made of lightweight materials - plywood or plank boards. Of course, such walls are not able to withstand the winter frosts. Warming the chicken coop is very important, it not only allows you to maintain the required temperature, but also reduces the amount of electricity consumed for heating. So, how to insulate a chicken coop with your own hands?
So, how to insulate the chicken coop so that the chickens do not get sick and endure the winter well? On the floor, natural materials are most often used - straw, hay or wood shavings.
It is better to insulate the habitat of chickens with natural materials
- lime;
- boric acid;
- copper sulfate.
Any of these substances is added to the mixture in a ratio of 1 to 10 to the base material.
In order to insulate shields with shavings, straw or hay, you need to make the mixture stronger by adding cement in a ratio of 1 to 10. Antiseptics are added to the resulting solution, and then everything is mixed with the required amount of insulating material. This mixture must be laid in the shields until it dries. When the insulation hardens, it will become strong enough.
If you are using straw or hay, it is advisable to use materials about 30 cm long. Such material will better keep the heat in the coop.
Instead of natural materials, foam can be used as a heater, it is quite cheap and easy to use. However, there are some nuances here - because of the foam, the vapor permeability of the walls is disturbed, and the wood begins to rot, and eventually becomes moldy. However, for the chicken coop, this is not such a serious problem.
How to insulate doors and windows
Most of the heat from the room leaves through the doors and windows. Based on this, door and window openings should be given the most attention. How to properly insulate a chicken coop? Thermal insulation is very important. If there are windows, a second glass must be installed. Another effective way to insulate window openings is to use plastic film, which is attached to the planks at a distance of 1.5 cm from the glass.
Most of the heat from the room leaves through the doors and windows.
At the same time, it is imperative to use a sealant, it is necessary to close up all the existing cracks in the frames and windows.
Additional insulation will require a contour from the side of the window hinges. For this purpose, you can adapt both a self-adhesive store insulation and a felt strip, which is nailed to the frame.
If the chicken coop is in the design process, make sure that the windows are small in advance - the larger the glass area, the more intense the heat loss. One small window on the sunny side is enough - on the east or south wall. For the winter, you can put double frames, and in the summer you can replace them with a regular mosquito net or a single layer of glass.
To insulate the chicken shed with the onset of cold weather, the windows must be insulated with a special plastic film, which will prevent them from freezing in the winter. The film does not prevent the penetration of sunlight into the chicken coop.
The door is also better located in the south, so even in winter it can be slightly opened to ventilate the chicken coop. The doorway, like the window, should not be too large.
However, keep in mind that it should be convenient for you to carry out all the necessary work to care for the bird and maintain the chicken coop in good condition - change the floor litter, clean up, take out manure, etc.
The door must be insulated. In severe frosts, the doorway is additionally hung with a carpet or an old carpet. The doorway can be insulated using a dense film insulation.
Ceiling insulation
A well-insulated chicken coop also implies insulation of the ceiling. Particular attention is paid to the attic floor. For insulation, a vapor barrier is used, which can also be replaced with ordinary dense polyethylene. Without such a layer, the insulation will get very wet. The material is laid on the ceiling with an overlap with the obligatory entry into the walls.
When choosing insulation for the ceiling, decide for yourself whether you are going to store anything in the attic. If not, then ordinary hay is enough, the optimal layer thickness is 25 cm. If you often need to go to the attic, it is better to put a crate over the insulation.
Styrofoam slabs can be laid without using a crate, and boards or chipboard sheets can be laid on top of it, so that it is convenient to walk.
How and what to insulate the walls
A warm barn for chickens is unthinkable without good thermal insulation of the walls. Plank walls are insulated in several layers - inside and out. Inside, a vapor-tight layer is needed, and on the outside, a more “breathable” material. If there is no additional layer of heat insulator on the inside of the walls, straw can be used.
Outside, vertical bars are installed every 60 cm, the thickness of the bar should be 12 cm.
These bars act as a crate, which is then filled with natural insulation mixed with cement. The top layer is facing and serves for decorative purposes. You should definitely think about the water resistance of the walls, so it would be good to treat the facade with a water-repellent solution.
If foam is used to insulate the walls, it is necessary to seal the gaps between the plates well.
Foam boards are attached to the walls with glue, and then additionally covered with plywood sheets. If desired, the walls can be painted in any color or varnished. It is best to use foam no thinner than 10 cm.
Floor insulation
Most often, the floor in a chicken coop or barn is an ordinary compacted soil, covered from above, for example, with straw. It is very simple to insulate the floor, for this it is enough to lay a layer of hay or wood shavings. It is important to remember about the timely cleaning of the contaminated layer, turn it over and change it to a new one.
In winter, the soil is a natural source of heat, which allows you to maintain a positive temperature. In order for the chicken coop to be warm due to the heat of the earth, it is necessary to insulate the soil around the perimeter of the building, taking into account the depth of soil freezing - the width should be the same.
Expanded polystyrene can be used as a heater by digging it close to the foundation of the house.
First you need to dig the foundation, and then fix the foam
However, this option is quite expensive and is not suitable for everyone. You can use ordinary straw by laying a layer 20 cm thick on a roofing felt substrate. From above, straw or hay is covered with sloping shields that protect the insulation from snow and rain. An even simpler option is only a half-meter layer of hay covered with boards. Then, even in its raw form, such a layer will provide the necessary insulation.
Heating appliances
Insulation of the chicken coop implies not only the presence of insulated walls, floors and ceilings, but also heaters. What appliances are suitable for a poultry house:
- diesel stoves or conventional wood or coal stoves;
- electric heating radiators;
- incandescent lamps.
Diesel-fueled stoves are the most economical and fire-safe heating option. In addition, they do not emit smoke. Depending on the size of the chicken coop, you may need several of these stoves, each unit heats only a specific area of \u200b\u200bthe room.
Modern type of heating equipment
Buleryan stoves, operating on any type of solid fuel, are quite economical to use and evenly heat the space.
Solid fuel stoves are a convenient means of heating
Solid fuel stoves are becoming increasingly popular.
But before insulating the chicken coop with electrical appliances, make sure that not a single chicken can get to the wires and the hot surface of the heaters themselves. Failure to comply with precautions threatens the death of birds.
The most economical in terms of energy consumption are infrared heaters. In some models, you can independently regulate the temperature in the room. It is enough to set the maximum temperature, and the device will automatically turn off as soon as the air in the room becomes warm enough.
However, the simplest option for heating a chicken coop is incandescent lamps covered with mesh caps. In order not to make a mistake with the power of the lamps, it is necessary to take into account such factors as:
- air temperature outside;
- poultry house area.
The most economical way to insulate a chicken coop
Some may think that only heaters are enough to insulate a chicken coop, and fuss with insulating walls, floors, door and window openings can be avoided. In fact, when deciding how to make a warm chicken coop, you need to combine both options. With poor thermal insulation, most of the heat will go into the external environment, which will immediately cause excessive energy consumption. An insulated room and the absence of drafts are not only a guarantee of heat, but will also reduce utility costs.
It is necessary to insulate the chicken shed before the first frosts, because otherwise the bird, due to the cold, can at least stop laying eggs, and in the worst case, hypothermia will lead to illness and death of chickens.
To insulate their chicken coop, many use moss peat.
It is necessary to warm the barn for chickens before the first frost
Not only is it an environmentally friendly material, it also absorbs moisture and chicken manure, preventing the spread of odor. Moss peat is great as floor insulation in a winter chicken coop. Birds, moving on such a moss floor, will not wet their paws, which means that the risk of diseases in the winter will be significantly reduced. Such peat can be reused as fertilizer for plants on the site.
In addition to moss peat, you can use a mixture of wood chips and sawdust in a ratio of 3 to 1. It is best to use coniferous trees, as they keep the heat inside the barn best, and are also a good preventive measure against a number of bird diseases.
A well-made and insulated chicken coop will not take much effort and financial investment. You can insulate a barn for chickens on your own, without resorting to third-party help. Despite the fact that the materials are quite cheap, it will take a lot of time and effort. However, the more carefully the work is done, the higher the quality will be.
Chicken coop insulation video
How to insulate the door in the barn with your own hands - a master class with a photo
See my master class with step by step photos on how to insulate the door in the barn with your own hands.
Hello everyone!
Here, I already wrote about how to build a shed of sleepers with my own hands, but as it turned out that one shed is not enough for me ...
In general, it went like this...
I built a shed and attached a firewood shed, a coal burner to it, and all sorts of rubbish was still stored there. The shed was not enough for me, and I decided to insulate this building and use it as a second additional shed (this will be a little later in another article on the construction of a bullpen) and there was a door that was not insulated.
I decided, of course, to insulate it, so that later it would be possible, they are not afraid that my bulls will freeze!
For this I needed:
Boards (Slab) and 2-3 bars 5 cm thick and at least 10 cm wide, and 2 or 3 pieces it will depend on how many sheds there will be! See below.
Insulation type "Ecover" or "Ursa"
Nails or screws ... who cares. I have used both.
Canopies 2 or 3 pieces (if you cut the boards, then it’s better to plant a door on 3 canopies, because it will add weight).
5 meters of roofing felt or film \ oilcloth.
Furniture stapler and staples
So let's get started!
For those who wish to assemble such a door from scratch, I will say right away ... DIMENSIONS are EVERYTHING here! If you have shifted a little, check and immediately correct your shortcomings, otherwise the whole door will lead, so you yourself will not be happy and you will start remembering me 😉
We insulate the door in the barn with our own hands
I had a barn door like this.
And this is the thickness
We take the bars and fill them around the perimeter of the door so that it would then fit into the opening.
And we check the whole thing! Now, when stuffed, we begin to measure the boards.
We take the boards along the width of the door and nail them with a “pocket” so that the insulation would then fit between the boards.
This is how it should look like!
Then we stuff them on all the doors, gradually installing insulation between the boards.
It should turn out like this:
Now all the cracks must be filled with mounting foam. Then cut off the excess foam with a knife.
When everyone is done, we cover it all with a film, oilcloth or roofing material (which is the first that comes to hand).
This is so that in winter, when the temperature will vary greatly, our insulation does not get wet, does not cake, and does not become unusable in one season!
Then we install handles and nail skirting boards that will protect animals from strong drafts.
The plinth should close the gap between the door and the jamb, so that the wind could not “dig” the road.
Everything! Now I will explain a little why my door is so crooked. In general, so...
I live in the village, I don’t have much money, and then I also have to buy food. So it turned out that a friend told me that nearby at the sawmill they sell boards cheaply “not standard” ...
If you process them, then nothing will remain in width, so I decided to do it this way! Whoever has the opportunity, do it cleanly, then you will have less drafts!
Thank you all for your attention. Gorod_Omsk was with you! I wish you all everything you wish for yourself!
www.sami-svoimi-rukami.ru
How to insulate a barn with your own hands - cost-effective ways + Video
Living in a private home opens up new possibilities. Home-grown vegetables and fruits are much tastier than market ones! And homemade eggs are just right for vegetables, and milk for eggs ... But where to keep animals? All structures on the site, including unsuitable ones, are used. In this article, we will consider options for how to insulate a barn at no extra cost with your own hands.
Construction and insulation - we act outside the barn
Rural residents hardly need to be explained what pets are and how to care for them. But yesterday's "urban", who decided to move closer to nature, everything is new! As a rule, the first in the list of pets, not counting dogs and cats, are chickens. In spring and summer, caring for them is not at all difficult, the main thing is to provide quality food and a canopy where they can hide from the sun. But in winter, the question is different - you can’t invite a chicken “mob” led by a pugnacious rooster into the house for the whole winter, and animals simply freeze in the tool shed.
The issue should be resolved quickly and efficiently. And, as everyone thought at that moment, preferably - inexpensively. Even a leaky tool shed can be turned into a warm room for the winter with your own hands. The easiest option is to knock down a wooden frame from the boards, hollow inside.
How to insulate a barn from the outside with your own hands - a step-by-step diagram
Step 1: Frame the Walls
The back wall of the frame will be the existing surface of the walls, and we will hammer the front wall out of the boards. Suitable even not quite smooth. But what about the cracks? There is one tried and tested method - the boards are nailed with an overlap! First, two boards are nailed to the bars, between which there is a distance for the third. The middle one is inserted so that the upper part goes under the first board, and the lower part covers the second board from above. It will turn out a "herringbone" through which no wind will break through. The advantage of this design is that it is protected from drying out, because if we just put together the boards butt-to-butt, sooner or later large gaps formed between them.
Step 2: Fill the frame with insulation
The space between parallel walls can be insulated with your own hands in different ways. If funds allow, buy mineral wool or blow out the voids with polyurethane foam. However, initially we agreed to save money, which means it's time to remember the ways of warming for the winter, which were used by our grandparents. What could be easier than sawdust! The material is almost free - at the nearest sawmill this stuff is at least heaps, for a bottle of something stronger you bargain with the watchman.
It is desirable to take sawdust dry and small. To prevent rodents from getting into them, it is enough to mix wood with fluffy lime - 1 part of lime is enough for 25 parts of sawdust. When insulating with sawdust, the space between parallel walls should be at least 25 cm. The prepared material is covered in layers, constantly ramming. Over the next two weeks, the insulation will still shrink - do not forget to add more sawdust after a while.
Step 3: Insulate the ceiling
In the case of the ceiling, the same frame is created. But unlike walls, a layer of high-quality waterproofing is also laid on top of the thermal insulation. Simply covering with slate or tiles is not enough; there must be a layer of roofing material or plastic film between them. The most important thing at all stages is to prevent the penetration of moisture into the sawdust. To prevent this from happening, many pack sawdust in plastic bags, and then carefully place it in the space between the walls.
Step 4: Insulate the floor
To insulate the floor with your own hands, it is important to make a mound of soil at least 10 cm high above the main level. Then clay is poured and compacted. The disadvantage of this method is in the dirt, which will always be inside the barn. If you want to make a clean and durable warm floor, it is recommended that instead of an embankment of soil, make an embankment of expanded clay and pour a cement-sand screed over it. Only this should be done in advance, in the warm season.
Shingles - an environmentally friendly way
Clay and straw is another budget option for do-it-yourself insulation, which, moreover, is absolutely safe from an environmental point of view. To this day, clay and straw are used to make adobe (lampach, valek, clay block) - clay bricks, which combine both insulation and the basis for the walls of the shed. Straw mixed with clay acts as a reinforcing material, so that the clay does not crack or crumble.
Under a layer of plaster, adobe is able to serve for many decades. So if you intend to build a barn for the winter from scratch, consider this budget option. Clay bricks in the villages used to be made by all relatives - there will be a reason to get together. If the barn has already been built, the clay and straw option is still relevant. Do-it-yourself warming of the barn should be carried out from the inside - a mixture of materials is applied to a previously prepared shingle.
Shingles - wooden planks stuffed from the inside of the room. First, one layer of planks is stuffed diagonally, and then the second in the opposite direction. To prepare the solution, first soak the clay (sour cream consistency) and add straw in portions. The resulting solution should be thick enough so that it does not slip from the surface. Let the mixture cool for a bit before you start working.
The clay mixture is applied to the walls with their own hands from the bottom up. The layer thickness is at least 3 cm. Use a spatula to make it easier to level. At the corners, the layer thickness can be increased up to 5 cm by rounding them. When drying, cracks may appear - this is not a problem. They should be covered with a solution of clay and sand (1: 2). The final stage is whitewashing the walls with lime.
How to insulate a barn - we work from the inside
Shingles, although a budget option, will take you a lot of time. If you value time, then instead of budget options, you can use more costly, but also more efficient in terms of speed of work. These include the option of insulation with mineral wool and foam. It makes no sense to talk about the merits of materials - we have already talked about this more than once in articles devoted to these heat insulators. Recall the shortcomings - mineral wool is easily saturated with moisture, as a result of which it loses its thermal insulation qualities, and also cakes over time.
Styrofoam is devoid of these shortcomings, however, it has little strength and needs additional protection from curious animals.
When insulating with mineral wool in a checkerboard pattern, nails are stuffed onto the walls to create a reinforcing mesh. Rolls of mineral insulation are unwound and laid on the walls, while a reinforcing mesh is created with the help of a rope that will hold the wool in position. Mesh is not necessary if you use rigid or semi-rigid slabs instead of soft rolls. But in this case, you will need to make a crate of boards with your own hands.
The distance between the boards should correspond to the width of the plates, and even be a couple of millimeters less so that the plates fit snugly into the space. How to insulate a barn with mineral wool for the winter? The secret is to prevent the material from getting wet due to moisture condensation.. And therefore, a layer of vapor barrier is stuffed over the insulation - glassine or more modern versions of membranes.
Styrofoam insulation inside the barn is even easier. If the base is strong, you can glue the insulation boards with your own hands on any available glue, even on ordinary PVA. Suitable and mounting foam, and liquid nails. For greater strength, it is possible to fix the plates together with the adhesive base using special dowels. In any case, after this, it is imperative to protect the material from mechanical damage. Any sheet material will do. In a chicken coop, this can be flat slate, and in a barn for small horned thinness, sheets of plywood.
Heating - a radical way to make the barn warm
If winter has caught you suddenly, and the barns with animals turned out to be poorly insulated, a radical way to increase the temperature inside the premises is to provide heating for the winter. Heating can be electric or wood burning. In the first case, heaters are used, in the second, a stove is built. Heaters are a temporary solution to the problem, but the stove should be installed even in insulated rooms.
The fact is that thermal insulation does not warm, but only prevents heat from leaving the barn. The stove will allow you to quickly and cost-effectively heat the air for a comfortable life for your pets. What to make a stove from, you decide. Just keep in mind that brick structures heat up for a long time, but then cool down for a long time. Metal stoves heat up almost instantly, but then also cool down quickly.
Insulated doors will help keep the heat inside the barn. It is best if the door leaf consists of two independent halves. To release the animals into the yard or into the aviary for walking, it will be enough to open the bottom door. Warm air accumulated from above will not be able to leave the room. And in the summer, the top half will make it easier for you to clean the barn - through it you can throw fresh manure out.
remoskop.ru
what should be the temperature and how to insulate
With the onset of cold weather, egg production of chickens decreases, and the risk of colds in birds increases. In regions with a harsh climate, in order to maintain optimal temperature conditions in winter, one has to resort to various methods of warming and heating the chicken coop. All work will be done by hand. The main thing is to correctly choose the heat-insulating material and follow the rules for its installation. With insufficient natural heating, it makes sense to think about an artificial heat source.
What should be the temperature in the chicken coop in winter
When breeding laying hens, it is important to know what temperature should be in the chicken coop in winter so that the hens rush. Experienced poultry farmers call the following temperature parameters:
- favorable temperature for keeping chickens ranges from + 12 ° C to + 15 ° C;
- the minimum temperature in the chicken coop in winter is + 10 ° С - with a decrease in the indicator, feed consumption increases, since part of the nutrients is used to heat the body of birds;
- the recommended temperature in the chicken coop for laying hens is about + 18 ° C - the organization of the "spring" microclimate contributes to an increase in egg production by 40%.
Insulated chicken shed
Most types of chickens are able to survive even with short-term negative values on the thermometer, however, such extreme conditions drastically reduce the performance of the bird. When determining how many degrees should be in the chicken coop in winter, it is necessary to take into account the age of the inhabitants of the house:
- chickens on the 21st day of life - at least 21 ° C;
- grown chicks from the 21st to the 50th day - the minimum temperature is + 16-17 ° C;
- adult chickens - from + 10 ° С.
Creating a normal microclimate in the poultry house
Under favorable conditions, chickens are active - they drink water well, eat food, are mobile and are distributed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe poultry house. Crowding of birds testifies to insufficient heating, which is fraught with their suffocation.
Excessive warmth is also undesirable. High temperatures adversely affect the egg production of birds - the quality of the egg shell deteriorates and the mass of eggs decreases.
Signs of overheating birds:
- rapid breathing;
- lowering of wings and open beak;
- intensive water consumption;
- refusal of the main feed.
Excess heat has a negative effect on chickens
In addition to maintaining the optimum temperature, it is important to ensure the stability of the microclimate in the chicken coop in winter. Poultry does not tolerate “jumps” in relative humidity and temperature fluctuations.
Warming the chicken coop with your own hands for the winter
All measures to prepare the house for the winter period with their own hands are divided into natural insulation and artificial heating. The first option involves the implementation of thermal insulation of the structural elements of the barn: walls, floors, roofs, windows and doors.
Thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool and isolon
It is advisable to take care of the insulation of the house even at the stage of its construction. In this case, it is not necessary to reduce the useful area of \u200b\u200bthe building. Let's designate the main ways how to insulate the walls of the chicken coop from the inside.
Option 1. Warming the chicken coop with glass wool. The material is characterized by low cost, good elasticity, resistance to pests, rodents and mold.
Work order:
- From the inside of the walls, fill the crate of the rails. The thickness of the insulation of the walls of the chicken coop will be about 8-10 cm.
- Place glass wool in the formed cells.
- Place a vapor barrier on top of the insulation. Fiberglass is hygroscopic, so a vapor barrier cannot be neglected.
- Sew up the structure with OSB or drywall boards.
Laying glass wool between wooden battens
Using the same technology, another mineral wool is laid or the walls are lined with foam from the inside.
Option 2. The use of isolon. Reflective thermal insulation material is efficient, environmentally friendly and does not "hide" the space inside the room. The disadvantage of the method is the high cost of the insulation.
To achieve the greatest efficiency, a gap of 1.5-2 cm should remain between the wall and the insulation.
We will analyze step by step how to insulate a chicken coop with isolon:
- Fill a grid of slats 1.5-2 cm thick on the wall. Cells with dimensions of 1 * 1.5 m should be formed, arranged in a checkerboard pattern.
- Fix the isolon with nails, glue the joints with aluminum tape.
- Fill an additional grate on top of the insulation.
- Install the finish coat.
Thermal insulation of the poultry house with isolon
Budgetary insulation with shingles and natural materials
Option 3. Insulation with shingles - an affordable and effective method. Moisten the clay abundantly, add sawdust and mix until smooth. Treat the walls with mortar - the layer thickness is about 3 cm. Seal the cracks that have appeared with a sand-clay mixture. After drying the shingles, whitewash the surface with quicklime.
Using shingles as insulation for a barn
Option 4. Laying natural insulation. To implement the method with your own hands, you will have to build a false wall from boards or OSB panels. Place sawdust, wood shavings or dry pine needles in the space between two walls.
Owners of compact structures are thinking about how to sheathe the chicken coop from the outside. The best option is polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. Sheets are "planted" on glue or attached to the facade with plastic dowels. After grouting, reinforcement and plastering of thermal insulation is performed.
Sheathing the outer walls of the house with foam plastic
Warming the chicken coop with polystyrene foam increases the temperature inside the building by 4-5 ° C.
What materials are suitable for the floor
The insulated warm floor in the chicken coop is done according to the same scheme as for a residential building: a subfloor, wooden logs, a layer of insulation and a finishing layer of boards.
Scheme of the device of the subfloor
How to insulate the floor in a chicken coop? For the thermal insulation of a wooden floor with your own hands, the following materials are used:
- Sawdust and expanded clay. Floor insulation in the chicken coop with expanded clay is affordable and easy to install. The material is poured between the installed lags, the thickness of the heat-insulating layer is 5-10 cm. By analogy, sawdust is also used. The lack of wood-shaving material is exposure to rodents.
- Mineral wool. The heat insulator is placed in the space between the lags with the solid side up - it is indicated by a blue stripe. Under the mineral wool it is necessary to lay polyethylene, and on top - a vapor barrier. The thickness of the insulation is about 20 cm.
- Styrofoam. For the installation of thermal insulation, you should not use vapor and waterproofing - the characteristics of the material do not change in a humid environment. Extruded polystyrene retains its original shape and is not exposed to rodents.
Instructions for floor insulation
Below are options for how to insulate a concrete floor in a chicken coop.
Method 1. Thermal insulation under a semi-dry or wet screed. Under the cement-sand screed, it is better to lay polystyrene foam of maximum density.
Layer sequence:
- Deep penetration primer treatment.
- Waterproofing the floor with roofing felt or mastic.
- Fixing the damper tape around the perimeter of the poultry house.
- Placement of expanded polystyrene plates.
- Shelter insulation with plastic wrap.
- Installation of reinforcing mesh and floor screed.
Insulation of a concrete floor under a wet screed
Method 2. Warming along the lags. The process involves pre-installation of the log, laying of thermal insulation material and finishing the floor with boards or OSB boards.
Regardless of the floor arrangement, additional warm bedding is required for the winter for the chicken coop. Most often, a mixture of sawdust and shavings is used in a ratio of 1: 3, respectively. It is advisable to add moss, a little peat to the litter, and cover it with straw on top.
Important! Spruce sawdust in the chicken coop in winter has a disinfecting effect. The temperature inside the litter of 20-30 cm can reach 30°C.
Straw bedding for chickens
It is acceptable to warm the chicken coop with straw and dry grass. During the winter, the litter should be fluffed and a fresh layer added periodically.
How to prevent heat leakage through doors and windows
A large amount of heat escapes through window cracks and leaks in the door structure. The windows in the chicken coop are insulated with various improvised means: newspapers, foam rubber, cotton wool, self-adhesive tape, felt strip or pieces of fabric.
All existing gaps in the window frame must be sealed with insulation material. To minimize the risk of blowing through, seal the junction of the window profile with the frame with masking tape.
Thermal insulation of the window frame with foam rubber
In old buildings, the integrity of the window structure is often violated - the frame is skewed or "departs" from the walls. In this case, all existing holes must be treated with mounting foam or silicone sealant. As an additional protection against the cold, you can stretch and fasten the film.
When designing a new barn for birds, it is enough to provide one small window on the south or east side. The optimal solution is the creation of removable frames, which can be easily replaced in summer with a mesh for ventilation of the poultry house.
Be sure to check the tightness of the door to the harness and insulate the entrance to the chicken coop. The upholstery of a wooden or metal door leaf is carried out with mineral wool, isofol, polystyrene foam, penofol, foam rubber, synthetic winterizer, felt, batting or polyurethane foam.
Using batting to insulate a door
Before you insulate the door in the chicken coop, it must be removed from the hinges, dismantle the handle and lock. When using a "soft" thermal insulation material, the following procedure is followed:
- Lay the door on a horizontal surface.
- Take measurements and cut out an advising piece from thick batting, foam rubber or mineral wool.
- Run a sample.
- Prepare the upper upholstery from leatherette or dense raincoat fabric - it should overlap the door with an overlap of about 20 cm.
- Put insulation on the door and fix it around the perimeter with nails or staples. Grab in several places inside the door leaf.
- Stretch the upholstery from above and carefully fasten it on the outside of the door with decorative or ordinary nails.
- If necessary, insulate the door from the inside.
Upholstery of the door leaf leatherette
What should be a warm roof
In the northern regions, it is recommended to build poultry houses with a gable roof. The resulting attic provides additional thermal insulation for the entire structure and is used to store non-bulky items. To insulate the roof with your own hands, the same materials are suitable as for the walls.
Step-by-step instructions on how to properly insulate the roof of a chicken coop with an attic with isover or mineral wool:
- Treat the load-bearing floor beams with an antiseptic and flame retardant to protect against decay, the development of pathogens and fire.
- Cover the floor of the attic with vapor barrier film.
- Lay mats of heat-insulating material between the beams and cover the insulation with a film waterproofing.
- Sheathe the floor with drywall, boards or plywood.
Rolling insulation in the attic
Ceiling insulation in a chicken coop
In a shed house, the ceiling must be insulated. For work, it is better to choose light materials: polystyrene foam, mineral wool, foil polystyrene foam.
Consider how to insulate the ceiling in the chicken coop with foam with your own hands:
- Inspect the ceiling and replace old rotten boards.
- Treat the wood flooring with protective compounds.
- Create a crate from wooden beams.
- Place the foam in the cells and fix it to the ceiling with dowels with hats or with glue.
- Cover the insulation with wooden clapboard or sheets of moisture-resistant drywall.
Styrofoam ceiling insulation technology
An interesting and affordable option for thermal insulation of the ceiling is the use of reeds. First you need to prepare "reed mats":
- The collection of reeds is carried out at the beginning of winter, after the leaves fall off. Cut the stems close to the base.
- Peel each stem and spread the reeds on a flat surface to dry.
- Grouping the reeds, form reed mats about 5-8 cm thick.
- Fix the shape with a rope for twisting the bales. The approximate size of the mat is 1 * 2 m.
Homemade mat from river reeds
The disadvantage of insulating the ceiling with reeds is the fire hazard of the material. When using an artificial source of heating (stove, incandescent lamps), it is better to refuse the use of river reed.
Heated barn for chickens
In regions with long and severe winters, where frosts below 10 ° C are not uncommon, it will be necessary to maintain the optimal temperature regime by an artificial method. We will figure out how to competently organize the heating of the chicken coop in winter and the better to heat the house.
Organization of furnace heating
When deciding how to heat the chicken coop in winter, it is necessary to build on the dimensions of the barn and the available resources. With free access to solid fuels, some prefer to use a wood-burning stove. An option for budget heating is often a home-made stove burelyan or potbelly stove.
The organization of cheap solid fuel heating of a chicken coop has a number of nuances:
- the heating elements of the oven must be isolated from birds;
- high fire hazard - the floor of the barn is filled with flammable bedding;
- the need to equip the premises with a chimney and ventilation system;
- the combustion process requires constant monitoring and the addition of fuel.
Making a solid fuel stove for a barn
The simplest do-it-yourself chicken coop stove can be made from a lawn balloon. The furnace is a chamber of two compartments: the upper one is for fuel combustion, the lower one is for collecting ash. There is a grid between the compartments.
A hole is cut out in the used cylinder and a furnace door is installed. Metal supports are welded to the bottom, and a chimney is installed on top. To protect birds from burns, it is advisable to shackle a potbelly stove in a chicken coop in a steel casing.
Alternative options for stove heating:
- Heating a chicken coop with gas is practiced in large farms, since supplying a gas line and installing a separate boiler is an expensive undertaking for a chicken coop. This method is inappropriate for use in private households.
- A diesel stove is not suitable for a chicken coop due to the complexity of its design. The supply of liquid fuels requires injection equipment and pre-filtration.
- Water heating of the chicken coop. If the poultry house is adjacent to the house, then it will be possible to draw a water circuit from the boiler through it. For a small shed, it is enough to lay one or two pipes around the perimeter; in spacious rooms, the heating system is supplemented by radiators.
Electric heating
Among farmers, the two most popular options for electric heating for a chicken coop are:
- infrared lamp;
- infrared ceiling heater.
Heating a poultry shed with an IR lamp
A red lamp with a power of 250 W is enough to heat a chicken coop with an area of 12 square meters. m. The efficiency of the heat lamp allows you to not turn it off in the cold season, when the birds lack sunlight.
Additional benefits of a heating lamp:
- local target heating of objects, not premises;
- maintaining a normal level of humidity;
- drying bedding;
- maintaining oxygen in the poultry house;
- 10% of energy heating lamps spend on additional lighting;
- ease of installation and replacement.
Important! The distance between the lamp and surrounding surfaces should be at least 0.5 m. Closer objects may overheat.
Ceiling IR heater for poultry house
An infrared heater in a chicken coop works on the same principle as a lamp. An electric heater is convenient in that it can be mounted on the ceiling - the birds will not be able to get too close to the equipment and get burned.
The maximum power of the heater in the chicken coop is 500 watts. If the performance of one model is not enough to maintain the temperature in the entire barn, then the room is equipped with additional "heating points".
The optimal solution is a heater with a thermostat from Teplofon. The built-in temperature switch turns off the device when the set air parameters are reached in the house and turns it on when the room cools down. Such models are considered the most economical and energy-saving heaters for the chicken coop.
The fan heater is not efficient enough to heat the house
Tips for choosing the best electric heating method
Possible options for electric heating:
- A fan heater for a chicken coop can be taken with a small power (1-2 kW). Such a unit will heat a small room up to + 16 ° С. The disadvantage of the method: the risk of a quick failure of the motor, the need for regular cleaning of the spiral from dust.
- Heating with infrared film is an expensive method. In addition to the IR film, you need to buy a mounting kit, a reflective substrate, a thermostat and plywood for floor or ceiling sheathing. The distance from the heating surface of the film to the perches is about a meter. The film underfloor heating in the chicken coop must have a moisture-proof coating.
- An oil cooler in a chicken coop is a temporary fix. The device warms up the air for a long time and consumes a lot of electricity.
- Heating a chicken coop with a convector is more economical than an oil counterpart. After turning on, the unit immediately starts to heat the air. The disadvantage of the convector is uneven heating of the room. Temperature fluctuations reach 10°C.
Installation of a "warm ceiling" from IR film
Particular attention in the construction of a barn for laying hens and broilers should be given to the natural insulation of walls, floors, roofs, windows and doors. Experienced poultry farmers recommend using IR lamps or heaters as artificial heating - they are safe and allow you to adjust the temperature regime of the poultry house.
101design.ru
Choosing a place for an insulated shedTo build houses outside the city (here we started with the foundation for a country house) - there has always been a dream number 1 in our Today I will tell you how we built such A very important point is the choice of a place for a new building. Unfortunately In our area, the coldest winds blow from |
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Preparation of material and tools for the construction of a warm shedThey decided to make a shed using frame technology with full We'll cover the walls For processing |
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We make the base of the shedWe use four racks as supports for the base of the frame. Three ends |
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Before starting to lay the insulation in the interlag Sawing |
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We lay the insulationA polyalpan was placed in several grooves (it was borrowed by neighbors who Unfortunately, the polyalpan was only enough for 4 spans, in |
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We use construction plywood as the base for the floor. |
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In our case Try to push the self-tapping screws under the level of the plywood base. Necessarily |
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Everything - the floor is ready. By the way, with this operation you will immediately catch |
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We make the frame of the walls of the shed.The height of the front and rear walls of the shed is 2000 mm. Based on these parameters |
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We fix all elements of the frame on self-tapping screws 75 mm long, strictly It is enough to make one common bobbin and put it in advance |
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The caracas of the wall is ready, it is enough to put it in place and |
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Similarly, we expose the front wall of the shed and fasten it to |
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Making frames |
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After all four walls are assembled, raised and fixed, be sure to If |
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Making the roof of the barnIn order to create a slope on the roof, we make one very Now the facade wall is higher |
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We lay the boards on the edge with an interval of 50 cm - these will be truss |
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We lay a vapor barrier film on the rafters. Mandatory |
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A drain of the resulting condensate from the ceiling insulation mats should form. |
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We lay edged boards on top of the vapor barrier film as guides for |
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The length of the slope of our roof is such that we had to lay |
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After the roof is closed, proceed to the installation of sheets Necessarily, |
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We carry out the sheathing, moving in a circle, but initially we fix |
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We insulate the walls of the barn with our own handsAs a heater for walls and ceilings, we use mats made of A prerequisite for working in this type of activity is We cut the mats in such a way that the cutting width is greater than the width of the opening where it will be laid. Use a wooden spatula to poke the edges of the mat. It's more convenient than using |
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After the mats have been laid into the walls and into the ceiling, it is necessary to It remains only to bring electricity, but this is a completely different Here we have such an insulated shed, built with our own hands. It must be said that this See also how to build a barn from sleepers and a simple barn in the country. |
www.sami-svoimi-rukami.ru
How to insulate a barn with your own hands ⋆ Proraboff.rf
It is advisable to know, even before construction, what the barn will be used for, foresee the method of insulation in advance and implement it.
Options for warming the barn and households. buildings
The best option is to build two parallel walls with space for insulation.
The roof, like the walls, needs to be insulated. To do this, lay the insulation on the logs and press it on top with boards. It is necessary to make a sloping roof so that moisture does not penetrate inside.
To prevent the cold from coming out from the ground, you can put wooden pallets with straw on the floor.
This method is the cheapest, since everything can be made from improvised materials, and no special skills are needed.
If you decide to redecorate an old barn for the winter, then there are several ways to do it.
Boarding
The easiest option is to make a second wall of boards with space for insulation. In this case, the boards will need to be nailed with an overlap to avoid gaps between them.
As you can see in the photo, to form a wall without gaps, first two boards are nailed with a retreat, and then it is closed on top of the third.
Too curved edges can be cut in advance with a circular saw.
In the process of erecting the wall, it is necessary to fill the insulation into the resulting compartment. Sawdust is well suited for this, but sometimes dry fallen leaves, pine needles are also used. The advantage of sawdust is that they are small, dry, and the price is almost zero, they can be obtained at any carpentry workshop.
Advice!
To avoid rodents between the walls, mix sawdust with slaked lime ("fluff") in proportions of 25 to 1.
Pour the materials onto a wooden or metal shield and stir with a shovel.
The sawdust insulation layer should be 20-30 centimeters thick on the walls, ceiling and field. You need to fill them up in layers and constantly tamp. After that, you need to give time for the sawdust to sit down, it is advisable to add more after 1-2 weeks.
The ceiling will need to be hemmed and filled with sawdust in the same way. To get a box for insulation, you need to make a false ceiling by stuffing a second layer of boards over the rafters. From above, they are covered with roofing material and nailed every 50 centimeters.
To protect it from rodents in the lower part of the barn, it is possible to enclose the walls with slate on both sides. The floor is insulated by pouring a layer of soil 10 cm above the main one, and then clay is poured and compacted from above. The main thing when warming is to prevent moisture from penetrating inside the sawdust, otherwise they will quickly begin to rot.
To make a warm door, the boards are knocked down diagonally, and a roofing material is inserted between them. With this design, you maximize the heat inside the room.
Sheathing of walls with shingles
If money is tight, but you want to get a warm utility room, then the walls can be sheathed with shingles.
To do this, you need to nail the slats diagonally, first in one direction, and then in the opposite direction. Reiki can be replaced with goat willow branches, then the clay layer can be made thicker.
To apply clay to shingles, you need to prepare a solution. Soak the clay with water to the consistency of sour cream and gradually pour in sawdust or straw, achieving the desired consistency. Do not apply the solution immediately, but let it stand for a while.
Start work from below, applying a clay solution with a thickness of at least 3-5 centimeters. Throw it in and smooth it out with a spatula. The layer should be uniform, pay special attention to the corners - you can increase the layer on them by rounding them.
After clay plastering, the walls should dry for several days.
Cracks will appear that can be repaired with a solution of clay and sand by mixing them 1 to 2.
Then you need to whitewash the walls with lime. If you are working in the cold season, then it is better to use slaked lime, as it will heat up when it comes into contact with water, but then be especially attentive to safety precautions.
Advice!
Instructions for painting with lime: Dilute quicklime granules in half a bucket of water.
In just a minute, the reaction will begin and the solution will become very hot.
After that, fill the bucket with water to the end and add a spoonful of salt.
With the same clay solution, seal all remaining cracks in the ceiling and floor. To insulate the ceiling, make a box of boards and bars, and fill it with clay and sawdust with a layer of about 10 cm.
This method is quite laborious, but does not require money.
Insulation of the barn from the inside
The next method - warming the barn from the inside, will suit you if the boards on the walls are more or less even and without gaps. You can call it the most expensive, since it requires the use of purchased materials, unlike the previous two options. But on the other hand, the appearance will be more or less beautiful, you can even convert the barn into a workshop.
Usually, mineral wool is used for internal insulation, which fits tightly into cells made of bars. As well as the insulation of the loggia and the facade, in the barn it is necessary to protect the insulation from moisture with a layer of vapor barrier with foil. Also, for insulation from the inside, you can use foam, sprayed foam.
Summing up
In this material, we examined the main methods of warming a barn. Which one to choose - cheap, but laborious, or more expensive and durable, in the end, it's up to you. If the structure is made of poor material, then of course, it is better to use the economy option.
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how to insulate a wood shed
How to insulate a cellar with minimal labor and cost
As you know, building a cellar does not mean getting a good place to store your crops. Poor waterproofing can be the cause of the penetration of groundwater into the room, and poor-quality thermal insulation can lead to unfavorable temperature conditions and the formation of condensate. That is why we will consider how to insulate the cellar in the garage or under the house, this will create an optimal microclimate in which all products will be kept fresh for a very long time.
It is worth remembering that only an integrated approach: good waterproofing, high-quality insulation and competent ventilation guarantee that the cellar will not be damp.
Styrofoam is a very popular option for cellar insulation among developers.
Insulation serves two main tasks:
- In winter, freezing of the structure is prevented.
- In summer, high-quality thermal insulation allows you to keep a low temperature in the cellar even on the hottest days.
Features of insulation of various parts of the cellar
First, you should decide which insulation for the cellar to choose. It depends on the heat-insulated surface and the characteristics of the material used. We will consider the most popular options, and the final choice will have to be made by you.
External thermal insulation
Warming outside the building is relevant in cases where the cellar is located under the garage, in the barn or at the outer walls of the house, and also if it is located separately. In cases where the cellar is located under the house a few meters from its outer walls, this operation may not be carried out.
At this stage, the following features can be distinguished:
- It is best to carry out work at the construction stage, when there is space. Otherwise, you will have to free the entire foundation, and in some cases this is almost impossible to do.
- Walls must be waterproofed. The best option is modern roll materials and liquid rubber. These coatings serve for decades, unlike bitumen and roofing material.
- If there are large gaps, it is best to seal them with mounting foam. it reliably insulates and does not collapse for a long time.
- Next, foam or other sheet heat-insulating material is attached. The easiest way to glue it is with mounting foam or a special composition. You can also use bituminous mastic - it also, drying, provides high fastening strength.
In the photo - heat-insulating material with external insulation is attached to a previously waterproofed surface
If high quality work is important to you, it is better to use extruded polystyrene foam.
This material is much stronger than conventional foam, it has higher thermal insulation properties, and thanks to the grooves in the ends, the joints are very reliable.
- To maximize the effectiveness of the thermal insulation layer on the street, it is necessary to make a blind area along the wall to protect the basement walls from moisture.
The blind area will reliably protect the layer of external insulation and significantly extend its service life.
Floor insulation
This is also an important point in the arrangement of the cellar. Many people think that the floor does not require special attention, but this is not so. In order for your floor to be reliable, it should be thermally and waterproofed. This can be done in several ways.
Warming with expanded clay:
- The base is leveled, which must be covered with roofing material or poured with bitumen, and a waterproofing agent is glued to it.
- Next, expanded clay fractions from 5 to 20 mm are poured. The layer of material should be from 10 to 25 cm. A concrete screed with reinforcement is poured on top of the material, the thickness of which depends on the expected load on the floor. After it hardens, additional waterproofing of the surface can be carried out.
Expanded clay - an excellent material for thermal insulation of the floor
It is worth noting that expanded clay is a very light material, which simplifies the process of working with it. In addition, the price of this material is quite democratic.
You can insulate the floor with sand and gravel:
- The site is being prepared and leveled, after which 15-20 cm of fine gravel is poured onto it. Then a layer of sand 5-10 cm thick is poured.
- The pillow is rammed and waterproofed, this can be done using roofing material or construction film.
- Next, a reinforcing belt is arranged and concrete is poured. If groundwater is located close to the surface, you can waterproof the flooded surface and make a 5 cm thick screed on top. This will provide additional protection.
A reinforcement structure is installed on the gravel-sand cushion and concrete is poured
The third way is foam insulation:
- A sand or gravel cushion is arranged, which is closed with a waterproofing barrier.
- Styrofoam grade 35 is laid on top.
- Next, a screed is poured, which, if necessary, can be reinforced to increase strength.
But this method is less common, since the floor can be perfectly insulated in simpler ways.
Wall insulation
We examined how to carry out work outside, now we will analyze how to insulate the cellar from the inside.
The best option is polystyrene due to ease of installation and low price.
With it, you can easily carry out the insulation with your own hands, you do not need the help of specialists and instructions - everything is very simple.
The walls should first be prepared - they should be even, all flaws should be repaired with cement mortar.
If there is a danger of flooding, it is better to treat the walls with a penetrating solution, at the moment this is the best protection for the premises from moisture.
Insulation sheets are easiest to glue, after which the surface is covered with a reinforcing mesh and plastered.
Styrofoam provides excellent thermal insulation
It should be noted that when insulating the outer walls with foam plastic 10 cm thick or more, internal insulation can be omitted.
Another option is to stuff guide bars along the walls, after which the foam is inserted between the bars, and the surface is sewn up with wood or moisture-resistant sheets.
Many developers prefer to use mineral wool; the process of its installation does not differ from polystyrene foam. If the insulation will be carried out under the plaster, a solid insulation is used, if under the bars - soft mats or rolled material.
Another option is insulation with sprayed polyurethane foam. At the moment it is the most reliable and durable insulation. It has no seams, it is resistant to moisture and has high thermal insulation properties. But the price of this solution is much higher than others.
Spraying is carried out between the bars, after which the surface is sewn up - everything is very simple
Ceiling insulation
As a rule, the main problems with the microclimate in the basement are associated precisely with poor-quality insulation of the upper partition. Therefore, it must be done.
There are several basic options for insulating the cellar from above. Let's consider each of them.
You can use polystyrene foam: fill the slats, insert insulation between them and seal all seams with mounting foam.
Styrofoam can be used on both walls and ceilings
You can fill the crate at a distance of 30 cm from the ceiling with cells of 40 cm, you can weld it from metal. Sealed polyethylene bags with moss, straw and other natural materials are stuffed into the formed space.
You can use polyurethane foam spraying, but it will cost a significant amount.
door insulation
Many, when insulating the cellar, forget that a significant part of the coolness leaves through a poor-quality door. It is best to make a vestibule with two doors. But still, it is better to insulate the inner fabric additionally. The easiest way is to paste over it with foam - this is a simple and effective way of warming.
Based on site materials: http://moypodval.ru
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How to build a barn and insulate it yourself cheaply? Step by step + Photo and Video
If you live in a private house, then you have some opportunities that residents of state-owned apartments do not have. You can grow your own vegetables, fruits, get your own livestock and treat yourself to a fresh, environmentally friendly product. True, the cattle still need to be kept somewhere. And here already someone is into something much - they drive the poor cattle wherever they get, even into rooms that are completely unsuitable for that.
barn construction
Usually, the first livestock that newly-made gardeners and owners of private houses, not counting cats and dogs, are chickens. This is understandable, because it is by no means difficult to care for them at any time of the year. In spring and summer it's a pleasure- it is enough to equip a canopy where they could hide from the sun or bad weather, and provide the necessary nutrition. And in winter it is a little more difficult. Of course, it would never occur to anyone to take them into their house, and in a flock with tools, chickens will die from the cold. But do not despair. Even a barn that looks like a sieve and is blown through by all the winds can be insulated for chickens.
The simplest option would be a hollow downed frame.
And so, to begin with, we will erect a frame for the walls. For the back wall, we use the existing outer wall, and the front wall must be put together from boards. Boards for this fit absolutely any, not even even. And so that no gaps remain during the construction of the building, we nail the boards with an overlap.
First, we nail two boards to the bars, while leaving room for the third. We insert it between them in such a way that from above it lies under the first board, and from below it goes to the second. Through the resulting "Christmas tree" the wind does not leak.
In addition, this design is resistant to drying out. If the boards were butted together, then over time, gaps would begin to appear between them. The design of the "Christmas tree" is protected from this. 
Or, alternatively, you can blow out the empty space with polyurethane foam. But the cheapest and most reliable means will be the grandfather's method - insulation with sawdust.
Insulation of the barn with sawdust
This material can be obtained in abundance at any sawmill and for a hell of a nice price. Sawdust should be fine and dry.
Also, sawdust should be mixed with fluffy lime to prevent the appearance of rodents.
We breed sawdust with lime 1/25, respectively. If you insulate the shed with sawdust, then make sure that the distance between the parallel walls, which you fill with chips, is at least 25 centimeters.
We fill the material in layers, while constantly tamping. Then you need to wait a couple of weeks until the insulation settles. After that, you will need to add sawdust.
Insulation of the ceiling in the barn occurs in approximately the same way. But here, on top of the insulation layer, you need to lay another layer of waterproofing. We do not just cover it with slate, but between it and a layer of insulation there should be a roofing material or a plastic film.
When insulating the floor of the barn, pour the soil at least 10 centimeters in height above the main level. Then we pour and ram the clay. But with this method of floor insulation, you should immediately warn that it will always be dirty in the barn. If you want a clean floor, then we replace the soil with expanded clay and pour it on top with a cement-sand screed. But this will have to be done in advance during the warm season.
Shed insulation with shingles
The shingles are made from clay and straw, it is safe and environmentally friendly. The shingles can act as a reinforcing material, since the straw prevents the clay from cracking and crumbling. Such material is able to serve for many years under a layer of plaster.
By mixing clay with straw, you can make bricks- adobe, from which you can make an excellent warm barn. If the barn has already been built, it can be insulated with shingles from the inside.
Shingles are wooden dies that are stuffed onto the walls from the inside of the room. It is them that you will cover with clay and straw. The dies are stuffed in two layers diagonally. One layer goes in one direction, the second in the opposite direction. Thus, you should get a diamond-shaped grid. Once the base is prepared, the clay should be soaked to a state similar to sour cream. While stirring, add straw in portions.
Then we stir for some more time until the solution becomes thick enough so as not to fall off the base. Before use, the mixture should be a little more infused. Next, apply the mixture on the walls from the bottom up.
The layer should be at least 3 centimeters thick.
Leveling is done with a spatula. In the corners, the thickness of the layer is increased to 5 centimeters. If cracks form after drying, do not be afraid - just cover them with a clay-sand mortar. In the end, in order for our insulation to live for a long time, you need to plaster the walls and whitewash. Warming the barn with shingles contains a significant disadvantage - despite its low cost, it will require a lot of time and effort from you.
Shed insulation with mineral wool
There are ways faster, but at the same time, more expensive. Of these options, the best of its kind is insulation with wool or foam. If you insulate with wool, then the nails should be driven into the walls in a checkerboard pattern, so you will create something like a reinforcing mesh. We lay rolls of mineral insulation on the walls, and with a rope we create a network that will hold the cotton wool. If you use semi-rigid or rigid slabs, then there is no need for a grid.
But then you will have to make a plank crate, with a distance between the boards corresponding to the width of the plates or even less by 1-2 mm, so that the plates sink as tightly as possible.
After installation on the insulation, we run the vapor barrier layer to prevent it from getting wet from the resulting condensate.
Insulation of the barn with foam
Insulation with foam walls from the inside is even easier. Styrofoam boards can be easily glued with any adhesive to the walls of the barn. The main thing is that the base is strong enough. You can even use PVA, monolithic foam or liquid nails. After gluing, the foam plates must be covered with any sheet material to protect them from mechanical damage. It can be plywood, flat slate, etc.
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Usually work on the construction of households. the owners make buildings with their own hands, and the question often arises of how to insulate a barn for chickens, pigs and other livestock.
It is advisable to know, even before construction, what the barn will be used for, foresee the method of insulation in advance and implement it.
Insulation options
- The best option is to build two parallel walls with space for insulation.
- The roof, as well as the walls, needs to be insulated. To do this, lay the insulation on the logs and press it on top with boards. Be sure to make a sloping roof so that moisture does not penetrate inside.
- To prevent the cold from coming out from the ground, you can put wooden pallets with straw on the floor.
This method is the cheapest, since everything can be made from improvised materials, and special skills are not required.
If you decide to redecorate an old barn for the winter, then there are several ways to do it.
Boarding
The easiest option is to make a second wall of boards with space for insulation. In this case, the boards will need to be overlapped to avoid gaps between them.
As you can see in the photo, to form a wall without gaps, two indented boards are first nailed, and then it closes on top of the third.
Too curved edges can be cut in advance with a circular saw.
In the process of erecting the wall, it is necessary to fill the insulation into the resulting compartment. Sawdust is well suited for this, but sometimes dry fallen leaves, pine needles are also used. The advantage of sawdust is that they are small, dry, and the price is almost zero, they can be obtained at any carpentry workshop.
