Peeling skin can be caused by a variety of factors. To deal with ...
As I promised, I am publishing an article on the manufacture of a smoking pipe. I shot the blank at every stage, but still my hands did not get to write the text for each photo. Huge work, as it turned out.
UPDATE !!!
The article is already well outdated, but write a new one
no time at all :) But there is a more recent video, or rather,
whole movie... It's 2015. How to find the time, be sure
I will shoot a new video, and separate videos at different stages
process. So follow the link,
subscribe to the channel:)
This is a ring from. It is prepared in advance. Sometimes you have to spend a whole working day to prepare such rings from different materials and in different sizes.
One end of the ring is ground strictly perpendicular to the axis. This side will face the bowl. The other side is not ground off - it is already ground off in place.
This is what the tusk itself looks like.
In addition to mammoth tusk, I also use other materials: cow horn, elk horn, various types of wood (I like boxwood and bubingo root), acrylic imitations of all kinds of materials. Curiously, a pipe with a mammoth tusk cannot be sent to the United States. To protect rare animals, their laws prohibit the import of ivory products, and customs officials cannot distinguish an elephant from a fossil mammoth, which is a little too late to protect. Therefore, only acrylic imitation of ivory is used on the American market.
On a lathe, I carved a cylinder at the end of the shank for the inner diameter of the ring. I glued the ring onto epoxy glue, then grinded off the end and drilled a mortise. It is very important to do this in one setup so that the axis of the mortise is exactly perpendicular to the end face. Otherwise, there would be a crack at the junction of the shank and the mouthpiece.
Precisely because the workpiece at this stage cannot be removed from the machine, rings have to be prepared in advance. The work would have been simplified by a second lathe, even the smallest one, but for now there is also more necessary equipment for which free funds are spent.
If you do not make a ring, then you can do without a lathe, having only a drilling machine. In this case, the end of the shank is sharpened with a Forstner drill. This is a cutter used for drilling for furniture hinges, for example.
The next step is to drill the smoke channel. I drill it by feeding the workpiece with my hands to a drill rotating in a lathe. Resting in the right place with the back binder, I do not let the drill go to the side.
To do this, you need to make a hole on the back of the workpiece. The center of the back cap will rest against this hole. Another hole at the bottom of the mortise - a drill will fall into it.
The smoke channel is drilled to the required depth to the proposed meeting point with the drill of the tobacco chamber.
Drill - 4mm. Drilling diameter is a moot point. Most factory manufacturers make the channels narrow, about 3 mm. Danish craftsmen prefer a little wider - 3.5 mm. Most of our craftsmen drill 4mm. American masters also love broad channels.
A pipe with a wide channel smokes, in my opinion, tastier and drier. The probability of tobacco particles being sucked into the channel slightly increases, but for filterless pipes this is not a problem: the channel can be easily cleaned with a brush without disassembling the pipe. I myself have not encountered this problem, since I smoke mostly coarsely chopped tobaccos of the English group. Danish tobaccos are usually cut finer, which is probably why Danish masters prefer narrower channels.
The hole is drilled just below the center of the bottom of the mortise. In bents, this is necessary for the brush to easily pass the assembled tube. When grinding the channel, the hole will be slightly bored up to an oval.
For the next installation on the lathe, I drill the tobacco chamber and sharpen the bowl cylinder. The shape of the tube is not at all cylindrical, and will be removed by another tool, but there will be something to start from.
In the background is a drill for a tobacco chamber. This is a perk refined to a parabola.
The camera is sharpened until it converges with the smoke channel. The channel should enter the center of the chamber along the very bottom. A little more to the right or to the left is not a big problem, and within reasonable limits I make such a mistake. Slightly lower, with a groove along the bottom is not entirely correct, I try not to leave such a groove. A little higher is definitely a marriage. A pipe with an overestimated channel bore will not finish smoking to the end, it will start to "sour", which will spoil the taste.
In this case, everything is perfect. The canal exit will be even neater after grinding.
It can be seen that the glued corners have worn off and will not become part of the tube.
The next stage is turning the shape. In the background is a velcro sanding disc. I install it on a lathe, but you can adapt any motor, or even use a grinder.
Using a lathe for this is not even entirely correct. A turner who loves his machine will never use any abrasives on it. But my machine is so old and not accurate, many generations of students of some vocational school worked on it before me.
A couple of black dots are visible in the image - these are sandpits - grains of sand that got into the briar from the ground. These sandpits will wear off, but even if they hit the surface of the tube, they are quite acceptable. Smooth tubes without sendpits are more expensive.
At first, I only sharpen the rounding of the bowl on four sides.
Then I roughly deduce the whole shape.
If you wet the workpiece, you can see grains - a natural briar pattern. Later, I will contrast these grains with successive sanding and staining.
The stammel was sanded a little more with coarse sandpaper (150 grit), a piece of ebonite was cut off for the mouthpiece.
The mouthpiece will be slightly curved, but it will be straight at first. Ebonite bends easily when heated, then hardens. But this is later.
On a lathe, I grind a trunnion - the spike of the mouthpiece for connection with the stammel - the wooden part. The trunnion has a precise diameter to fit snugly in the mortise without getting stuck. And the length is precisely adjusted to the depth of the mortise, so that there is no cavity inside the assembled pipe. To be absolutely precise, the length of the trunnion is still slightly less than the depth of the mortise, approximately 0.2 mm. This is necessary due to thermal expansion so that an alkali does not form in the warm tube.
The mouthpiece channel was drilled with three drills: first a little 3.8 mm, then 2.5 almost to the end, then 1.5 mm towards the end of the mouthpiece.
Then I bore the slit in the mouthpiece. For this, the following tools are used:
The Dremel drill attachment is used to sketch the direction of the crevice. Most of the factory manufacturers and some craftsmen (mainly Italians) stop there. But if you do everything according to your mind, you need to bore the gap with a deep cone deep into the mouthpiece. For this I use a piece of a jigsaw file.
The third tool is called a tapered rimmer. This is a triangular file with a grinded cut. In a wide place, the section fits into a circle with a diameter of 4 mm - just under the diameter of the stammel channel. By rotating this rimmer in the channel, I remove the "steps" between the drills of different drills. The result is a smooth taper from 4mm at the inlet to 1.5mm at the mouthpiece. Again, many manufacturers omit this step, and these steps accumulate condensation from the smoke.
Then I roughly sharpen the shape of the mouthpiece with the same Velcro sanding disc. Further - only hand tools: files and skins.
In this picture, the shape of the mouthpiece is roughly deduced. I do this with a flat file.
I worked a little more with a file, and then - a skin of 150 grit on just such a block. I use different blocks: round, rectangular, complex profiles. Grinding on your fingers will not work, at least due to the different density of materials: the briard will fail, the mammoth and ebonite will bulge.
I spent some more.
I got to 240 grit. Wet it. Grains are visible.
The channels of the stammel and the mouthpiece were sanded with sandpaper on a wooden skewer. From the side of the mouthpiece - with skins folded into a sharp corner. I grind the chisel canal up to 320 grit - there is no further need. The only task is to get rid of the drill marks that make cleaning difficult. I not only grind the mouthpiece channel up to 800 grit, but also polish it with a paste on a long brush (visible behind the tube).
Then I heat the mouthpiece with a construction hairdryer and fold it over. Then I cool it with cold water. While there was no hair dryer, I used a simple candle. A hairdryer is more convenient only because it is impossible to accidentally set fire to ebonite.
Sanded with 320 grit sandpaper. Determined the final shape of the mouthpiece. I make the mouthpiece physiological, like a boxing mouthpiece.
Starting at 320 grit, I paint the pipe between the skins. I currently use black water stain. After staining, I wash off the remains of the stain with a damp cloth.
Here the black painted tube is sanded to 400 grit. As you can see, some of the stain that got on the more porous fibers was absorbed a little deeper and remained after sanding. This is how the contrast of grains appears.
The procedure is repeated with sandpaper 500 and 600 grit.
I apply the main color. This is already an alcohol-soluble stain. Again, rinse off excess stain with a damp cloth to prevent the pipe from getting your hands dirty.
I polish the pipe with paste on a polishing wheel. On the polished mouthpiece, small shoals of grinding are visible - I grind it there, bring it to 1500 grit, and polish it again.
I grind the stains in the tobacco chamber with a sandpaper on such a stick. I use 150 grit coarse skin. Some masters grind the camera in the mirror, but I think this is not only superfluous, but also harmful. Soot deposits more quickly on the rough surface of the chamber.
I mark the tube with stamps. His name is A. Bondarev. Grading A-B-B, A - the highest. And the date of manufacture, in this case 2013-09-13. Traditionally, craftsmen use the Latin alphabet for hallmarks, but I prefer native Russian letters. Perhaps I will have to moderate my patriotism when I enter foreign markets, but so far my pipes are sold only in Russia and the CIS.
On the finished tube, I apply carnauba wax, a natural polish that gives M & Ms, for example. In fact, this is just a pre-sale preparation, since over time the carnauba will be erased. I use the same cotton pad to apply the carnauba as I did for polishing.
It remains to sew a leather bag, and the tube is ready. A drop of black stain remained in the cell - it doesn't matter. Light up. I erased most of the splashes, and you can't rub any further without distorting the geometry of the camera.
This is what the finished tube looks like. It took me two full working days to make this pipe. This is a great success: on average, the tube takes more time, since often the workpieces go to waste due to hidden material defects (cracks, cavities). Plus I had a pre-prepared mammoth tusk ring.
The material from which the pipes are made is called briar. It is an outgrowth in the root system of a tree-like heather, a tree that lives around the Mediterranean in arid climates in rocky soil. In this porous growth, the tree accumulates moisture, and from the soil it absorbs minerals, making it hard and almost non-combustible. It is these difficult growing conditions that make this material ideal for the manufacture of smoking pipes.
This image shows a roughly cut and lined block. In the original block, the tube is placed at an angle, so before cutting it, I had to stick the briar trim on the epoxy. They are now visible in the corners. This will make it easier to fix the workpiece in the lathe. And later these corners will be cut off.
The wooden part of the tube - the stammel - will have two holes. One in a shank for attaching a mouthpiece (mortise), and one in a bowl - a tobacco chamber. A smoke channel will be drilled from the bottom of the mortise into one of the tobacco chamber. The axes of all three drill holes are in the same plane, it is drawn in the middle of the block.
This is a ring made from mammoth ivory. It is prepared in advance. Sometimes you have to spend a whole working day to prepare such rings from different materials and in different sizes.
One end of the ring is ground strictly perpendicular to the axis. This side will face the bowl. The other side is not ground off - it is already ground off in place.
This is what the tusk itself looks like.
In addition to mammoth tusk, I also use other materials: cow horn, elk horn, various types of wood (I like boxwood and bubingo root), acrylic imitations of all kinds of materials. Curiously, a pipe with a mammoth tusk cannot be sent to the United States. To protect rare animals, their laws prohibit the import of ivory products, and customs officials cannot distinguish an elephant from a fossil mammoth, which is a little too late to protect. Therefore, only acrylic imitation of ivory is used on the American market.
On a lathe, I carved a cylinder at the end of the shank for the inner diameter of the ring. I glued the ring onto epoxy glue, then grinded off the end and drilled a mortise. It is very important to do this in one setup so that the axis of the mortise is exactly perpendicular to the end face. Otherwise, there would be a crack at the junction of the shank and the mouthpiece.
Precisely because the workpiece at this stage cannot be removed from the machine, rings have to be prepared in advance. The work would have been simplified by a second lathe, even the smallest one, but for now there is also more necessary equipment for which free funds are spent.
If you do not make a ring, then you can do without a lathe, having only a drilling machine. In this case, the end of the shank is sharpened with a Forstner drill. This is a cutter used for drilling for furniture hinges, for example.
The next step is to drill the smoke channel. I drill it by feeding the workpiece with my hands to a drill rotating in a lathe. Resting in the right place with the back binder, I do not let the drill go to the side.
To do this, you need to make a hole on the back of the workpiece. The center of the back cap will rest against this hole. Another hole at the bottom of the mortise - a drill will fall into it.
The smoke channel is drilled to the required depth to the proposed meeting point with the drill of the tobacco chamber.
Drill - 4mm. Drilling diameter is a moot point. Most factory manufacturers make the channels narrow, about 3 mm. Danish craftsmen prefer a little wider - 3.5 mm. Most of our craftsmen drill 4mm. American masters also love broad channels.
A pipe with a wide channel smokes, in my opinion, tastier and drier. The probability of tobacco particles being sucked into the channel slightly increases, but for filterless pipes this is not a problem: the channel can be easily cleaned with a brush without disassembling the pipe. I myself have not encountered this problem, since I smoke mostly coarsely chopped tobaccos of the English group. Danish tobaccos are usually cut finer, which is probably why Danish masters prefer narrower channels.
The hole is drilled just below the center of the bottom of the mortise. In bents, this is necessary for the brush to easily pass the assembled tube. When grinding the channel, the hole will be slightly bored up to an oval.
For the next installation on the lathe, I drill the tobacco chamber and sharpen the bowl cylinder. The shape of the tube is not at all cylindrical, and will be removed by another tool, but there will be something to start from.
In the background is a drill for a tobacco chamber. This is a perk refined to a parabola.
The camera is sharpened until it converges with the smoke channel. The channel should enter the center of the chamber along the very bottom. A little more to the right or to the left is not a big problem, and within reasonable limits I make such a mistake. Slightly lower, with a groove along the bottom is not entirely correct, I try not to leave such a groove. A little higher is definitely a marriage. A pipe with an overestimated channel bore will not finish smoking to the end, it will start to "sour", which will spoil the taste.
In this case, everything is perfect. The canal exit will be even neater after grinding.
It can be seen that the glued corners have worn off and will not become part of the tube.
The next stage is turning the shape. In the background is a velcro sanding disc. I install it on a lathe, but you can adapt any motor, or even use a grinder.
Using a lathe for this is not even entirely correct. A turner who loves his machine will never use any abrasives on it. But my machine is so old and not accurate, many generations of students of some vocational school worked on it before me.
A couple of black dots are visible in the image - these are sandpits - grains of sand that got into the briar from the ground. These sandpits will wear off, but even if they hit the surface of the tube, they are quite acceptable. Smooth tubes without sendpits are more expensive.
At first, I only sharpen the rounding of the bowl on four sides.
Then I roughly deduce the whole shape.
If you wet the workpiece, you can see grains - a natural briar pattern. Later, I will contrast these grains with successive sanding and staining.
The stammel was sanded a little more with coarse sandpaper (150 grit), a piece of ebonite was cut off for the mouthpiece.
The mouthpiece will be slightly curved, but it will be straight at first. Ebonite bends easily when heated, then hardens. But this is later.
On a lathe, I grind a trunnion - the spike of the mouthpiece for connection with the stammel - the wooden part. The trunnion has a precise diameter to fit snugly in the mortise without getting stuck. And the length is precisely adjusted to the depth of the mortise, so that there is no cavity inside the assembled pipe. To be absolutely precise, the length of the trunnion is still slightly less than the depth of the mortise, approximately 0.2 mm. This is necessary due to thermal expansion so that an alkali does not form in the warm tube.
The mouthpiece channel was drilled with three drills: first a little 3.8 mm, then 2.5 almost to the end, then 1.5 mm towards the end of the mouthpiece.
Then I bore the slit in the mouthpiece. For this, the following tools are used:
The Dremel drill attachment is used to sketch the direction of the crevice. Most of the factory manufacturers and some craftsmen (mainly Italians) stop there. But if you do everything according to your mind, you need to bore the gap with a deep cone deep into the mouthpiece. For this I use a piece of a jigsaw file.
The third tool is called a tapered rimmer. This is a triangular file with a grinded cut. In a wide place, the section fits into a circle with a diameter of 4 mm - just under the diameter of the stammel channel. By rotating this rimmer in the channel, I remove the "steps" between the drills of different drills. The result is a smooth taper from 4mm at the inlet to 1.5mm at the mouthpiece. Again, many manufacturers omit this step, and these steps accumulate condensation from the smoke.
Then I roughly sharpen the shape of the mouthpiece with the same Velcro sanding disc. Further - only hand tools: files and skins.
In this picture, the shape of the mouthpiece is roughly deduced. I do this with a flat file.
I worked a little more with a file, and then - a skin of 150 grit on just such a block. I use different blocks: round, rectangular, complex profiles. Grinding on your fingers will not work, at least due to the different density of materials: the briard will fail, the mammoth and ebonite will bulge.
I spent some more.
I got to 240 grit. Wet it. Grains are visible.
The channels of the stammel and the mouthpiece were sanded with sandpaper on a wooden skewer. From the side of the mouthpiece - with skins folded into a sharp corner. I grind the chisel canal up to 320 grit - there is no further need. The only task is to get rid of the drill marks that make cleaning difficult. I not only grind the mouthpiece channel up to 800 grit, but also polish it with a paste on a long brush (visible behind the tube).
Then I heat the mouthpiece with a construction hairdryer and fold it over. Then I cool it with cold water. While there was no hair dryer, I used a simple candle. A hairdryer is more convenient only because it is impossible to accidentally set fire to ebonite.
Sanded with 320 grit sandpaper. Determined the final shape of the mouthpiece. I make the mouthpiece physiological, like a boxing mouthpiece.
Starting at 320 grit, I paint the pipe between the skins. I currently use black water stain. After staining, I wash off the remains of the stain with a damp cloth.
Here the black painted tube is sanded to 400 grit. As you can see, some of the stain that got on the more porous fibers was absorbed a little deeper and remained after sanding. This is how the contrast of grains appears.
The procedure is repeated with sandpaper 500 and 600 grit.
I apply the main color. This is already an alcohol-soluble stain. Again, rinse off excess stain with a damp cloth to prevent the pipe from getting your hands dirty.
I polish the pipe with paste on a polishing wheel. On the polished mouthpiece, small shoals of grinding are visible - I grind it there, bring it to 1500 grit, and polish it again.
I grind the stains in the tobacco chamber with a sandpaper on such a stick. I use 150 grit coarse skin. Some masters grind the camera in the mirror, but I think this is not only superfluous, but also harmful. Soot deposits more quickly on the rough surface of the chamber.
I mark the tube with stamps. His name is A. Bondarev. Grading A-B-B, A - the highest. And the date of manufacture, in this case 2013-09-13. Traditionally, craftsmen use the Latin alphabet for hallmarks, but I prefer native Russian letters. Perhaps I will have to moderate my patriotism when I enter foreign markets, but so far my pipes are sold only in Russia and the CIS.
On the finished tube, I apply carnauba wax, a natural polish that gives M & Ms, for example. In fact, this is just a pre-sale preparation, since over time the carnauba will be erased. I use the same cotton pad to apply the carnauba as I did for polishing.
It remains to sew a leather bag, and the tube is ready. A drop of black stain remained in the cell - it doesn't matter. Light up. I erased most of the splashes, and you can't rub any further without distorting the geometry of the camera.
Yeah, I also wanted to feel myself not only as a consumer, but also as a master. And since it is too late to plant tobacco, I decided to make a pipe.
I ordered a couple of blanks and a couple of mouthpieces in the St. Petersburg store www.pipeshop.ru. Problems arose: the assortment of the store did not match the stock, my greenish mouthpieces were not found. Delivery went through the Moscow www.tabachok.ru, plus my boss accepted the goods, and I was three hundred kilometers away ... But as a result, the mouthpieces arrived and were selected (out of a dozen provided) very pleasant.
Further difficulties were purely technical - it was necessary to figure out how to make a pipe. Well, for me, after four years of ceramics, one and a half years of woodcarving and twenty-five years of careful observation of how the world works, it is a matter of a day or two of experiments.
And this came to me with the aim of becoming a pipe.
Drilling completed;)
An unsuccessful experiment - the sharpener burns the tree, but almost does not cut it down.
After I got fucked up with the sharpener, I took the skin. I rolled it into a flexible file. And I felt the buzz from the right instrument ...
Almost done ... the 240th skin isn't perfect either. I want 360 or 440 ...
Tube while waxing. The technology is as follows - we heat it in the oven, then dip it in melted wax. It looks like this. Then we heat it on an open gas flame (it does not give soot) and rub the wax with a cotton rag.
It turns out like this;) And I still have to do the second ...
... but first I'll smoke this one !!!
The workpiece is sawn off according to the idea. SHOULD be filing freer by half a centimeter, and not like me. Draw not only the outline, but also the stocks.
Then the workpiece is drilled into the bowl and channel. The bowl is drilled with an 18.5 mm drill and bored with emery to 22 mm, otherwise the walls will be uneven, the channel is 4-5 mm.
There was no chuck under the 18.5 mm drill, I drill 10 mm and re-drill by hand.
Briar is cut very hard, almost like a beech, only it does not crack ...
The workpiece can already be smoked. Now all the work is a cosmetic event.
On the sly, a briar ring with two 16-carat nails was prepared for the wife.
Almost done, right?
The first, unsuccessful attempt to stain the pipe. Forgot to dilute the stain.
And here is the result - uzhosnah :) He sanded it off and peremoril.
Final product:)
Uh ... How can I put it ...
We do everything in a simple way, there is no need to be afraid. Briard is also a tree.
We saw off the workpiece according to our thoughts, which we first draw on the workpiece.
We take a fighter (a file for wood) and shape the workpiece, 3-4 millimeters before reaching the desired size.
We take a sheet of 40-ki skin, twist it into a tube and use this soft file to give the final shape to the tube blank. DO NOT * HURRY !!!
Next, we grind with 160 and 240. I want a 400, otherwise it is not completely polished. We have to work with the reverse side of the skin;) Very not * ... Well, see above;)
Further, if desired, we starve. I like the domestic organic wood stain - just dilute it 1:10 with solvent 649 or similar and paint it, dries quickly, about 10 minutes before the next layer, about an hour before waxing.
> HINT: if you wet the tube, you will see how it will look like waxed. It will darken !!!
We wax. We take beeswax (not particularly show-off are free to take anything;), melt it in a semicircular vessel. Along the way, we heat our pipe in the oven - it will be better absorbed this way. We are preparing for light burns of fingers, however, there are only 80 degrees. Dip our pipe from all sides, let it cool.
Now quickly warm up the tube piece by piece on a gas flame and rub the wax with a cotton rag.
Ready!!!
Yes, now it remains to properly smoke our charm :)
But that's no problem!
Pipe smoking is one of the earliest ways to use tobacco. Pipe lighting was a kind of ritual. Most of the smokers continued to smoke pipes until the middle of the 20th century. Now the smoking process has become easier due to the appearance of cigarettes and cigarettes. But, interest in the pipes has not disappeared. And even vice versa. And the making of the pipe became great home business ideas with a good income!
It's time to admit that a person loses to smoking. Of course, the consumption of cigarettes can be reduced. But, smoking hookahs and pipes is not. And what about the "vapors" with their newfangled electronic cigarettes? Smoking is a huge niche that generates colossal revenues for multinational corporations. And who is going to refuse it voluntarily? That is why smoking, mutating and reincarnating, will always be there. Whether we like it or not.
site: in our editorial office nobody smokes. And we do not advise you. Although, smoking is a voluntary choice of an adult. However, tobacco smoke is harmful to health and can cause chronic illness. Remember this when making your informed choices.
The key advantage of smoking pipes is that it is not a mass product. The demand is stable, but not very high, so that large industry is interested in it. Of course, there is a factory-made small-scale product produced mainly by small Asian enterprises. But, such copies are used only by novice smokers to teach the process of smoking tobacco using a pipe. Later, having gained experience, people who prefer pipes try to find an individual specimen that meets their taste preferences. And this is where the home business begins, which can bring a lot of income.
By the way, among the regular pipe smokers there were and are such celebrities and famous people - Bob Marley, Johann Bach, Yuri Vizbor, Arkady Gaidar, Joseph Stalin, Stanislav Govorukhin, Vincent Van Gogh, Walt Disney, Sergei Yesenin, Madonna (singer), Nikolai Rastorguev and many others. And even fictional characters have such a passion for pipe smoking - Taras Bulba, Sherlock Holmes, Commissioner Magre, Captain Vrungel, Gena the crocodile and even Carlson. The list is impressive!
It will not be superfluous to warn. Thinking about this business, it is imperative to have artistic and craft talents. Making a tube is quite laborious and requires a good qualification of the master. A lot of material will be wasted in the process of “stuffing your hand” into making the tubes. But, it's worth it. A good quality pipe is very expensive. Very expensive! Did we write that making a custom-made tube is very expensive?
Typically, a good pipe maker comes to this business through smoking. He tries the pipe first. Then he looks for the ideal among the available ones, along the way understanding the smoking process. Not finding a suitable specimen, the master tries to make a pipe for himself. He succeeds. Then he makes gift pipes to his friends, acquaintances and just everyone who wants to. Taking a symbolic payment for the pipes - the cost of the material and a drop for the work. And only then, increasing the cost of his work, making smoking pipes to order becomes his main source of income. And the clients are looking for him themselves, through the pipes he made. In modern society, as a rule, via the Internet, finding photos of the master's works on social networks.
Considering the above facts, have you already decided to start smoking? Do not hurry. You may be able to make pipes without developing this addiction.
The theory of tube making is widely described on the Web. Many communities, forums and sites are dedicated to it. There are given typical sizes, standard shapes and arrangement of various types of tubes. Technological methods of production and the necessary equipment are described. That is, in fact, the device and internal dimensions of the pipe (chamber and shape of the smoking channels) are standard for each type, but the appearance is the master's fantasy. This is the whole point of this home business. The look and workmanship of the tube is what will help you make money. And smoking will allow you to independently test manufactured copies. And you don't have to do it yourself. You can find a friend who is a heavy pipe smoker.
Materials suitable for making a smoking pipe
Such materials can be classified as traditional.
Wood- a traditional material for making a tube. The most popular type is briar, which has been used since the 19th century. This is an outgrowth between the root and trunk of the erica shrub of the heather family. Cheaper options are pear or beech wood. Sometimes the roots of various trees, such as cherries, are used. Resinous woods and trees with low heat resistance - not suitable for pipe making.
It will not be superfluous to remember mortu ("bog oak") - the wood of fossil oak. This material is characterized by high strength and excellent heat resistance.
Meerschaum- a porous white mineral, the main deposits are located in Turkey. Tubes made from this mineral are called foam tubes. The bowl of the tube is usually made of foam. Decorated with fancy carvings. The mouthpiece and shank (tube-to-mouthpiece connector) are usually made of wood. In more expensive options, the shank is also made of foam.
Clay and porcelain... The cheapest option for making tubes. Akin to pottery. Nowadays, such pipes are usually used as souvenir, decorative and collectible. Although there are also workers, the so-called Turkish pipes.
Also, advanced craftsmen do not stop there and are looking for various options and combinations of materials - from metal to plastic.
The simplest technology for making smoking pipes from wood
Here we will consider the simplest technology for making smoking pipes of a certain size from wood. Downtime means that most of the technological processes are automated or mechanized. The full production cycle is not given, but it is clearly shown that there is nothing complicated in this. To make pipes, you need a certain set of equipment and tools.
- wood lathe;
- turning tools - roughing, finishing, boring, cutting;
- wooden detachable jig;
- wooden pliers;
- vertical drilling machine;
- cutters with a diameter of 10 mm;
- two-stage wood drill with a diameter of 10 and 14 mm;
- hand saw for metal (or part of it);
- rough rags;
- skins of various grain sizes.
The wood used for making smoking pipes is the same as for making mouthpieces, that is, beech, pear, cherry or briar.
Manufacturing begins with turning the workpiece to dimensions: length 62 - 63 mm, diameter 38 - 40 mm.
The workpiece is removed from the lathe and transferred to a vertical drilling machine for further processing.
Using a detachable device and clamping wooden pliers, set the workpiece on a drilling machine and drill two holes perpendicular to each other: a blind hole for tobacco, 10 mm in diameter, 25 mm deep, and on the side to connect the tube to the mouthpiece. In this case, a through two-stage hole is drilled with two diameters - 10 and 14 mm, so that the mouthpiece does not "fall through" into the tube when connected.
The workpiece is re-installed on the lathe. A blind hole is bored along its entire length to a diameter of 14 - 15 mm, a depth of 25 mm. Then the workpiece is ground from the outside to a diameter of 30 mm. In this case, the permutation of the workpiece in the chuck is not allowed, since the coaxiality of the diameters can be violated.
After turning to the above diameter, the workpiece is formed into the desired shape of the future smoking pipe.
Following this, black risks are made on the tube. They are carried out with the reverse side of a hand-held hacksaw for metal under pressure. A coarse rag is used to induce "blackness" at the end of the workpiece under pressure. The workpiece is ground inside and outside to mirror-like cleanliness. The workpiece is cut off from the wood.
Then they start making the mouthpiece... Before connecting the tube to the mouthpiece, coat the junction with PVA glue and then with a light blow with a wooden hammer, on which a thick rubber is attached, the mouthpiece is hammered into the hole of the tube. In this case, there should be no visible gaps between the tube and the mouthpiece. The tube is finished at the request of the master.
The use of a double filter placed in a shank or a mouthpiece when using a pipe can reduce the incidence of harmful substances emitted by tobacco products. For making a mouthpiece, juniper, apple, pear, birch, cherry, acacia, oak are best suited. And also a good material is a birch twig (an outgrowth on a birch trunk, a rather rare, but high-quality material).
The manufacturing technology of the mouthpiece is not difficult and is a good practice for a novice woodcarver.
The workpiece is clamped in a lathe chuck and machined along the butt and outer diameter (roughing). Then, with a drill with a holder (through a threaded hole in the tailstock), a through hole with a diameter of 4 mm is manually drilled into the workpiece. In this case, vibration of the drill with the holder is not allowed.
The mouthpiece is processed along the contour and carried out with a hacksaw (reverse side) two or three transverse black stripes - recesses for decoration. Following this, the mouthpiece is grinded to mirror cleanliness and cut off from the workpiece. Drill a hole with a diameter of 8 mm. To make it convenient to hold the mouthpiece when smoking, grind off two chamfers. Cover the mouthpiece with a solution of natural drying oil. In the mouthpiece, according to American studies, when smoking, a significant part of harmful substances (including nicotine) is deposited.
The pipe allows not only smoking tobacco, but also cigarettes and cigarettes. For this purpose, an insert can be made, which is inserted into the tube during smoking of cigarettes. While smoking the tobacco, the pipe insert is listened to.
The insert is a conical plug with a hole inside for a cigarette. The insert should fit snugly against the walls of the tube and should not allow air to pass through the cigarette opening with your finger.
Profitability of a Home Business to Make Smoking Pipes
The cost of custom-made tubes is individual. Therefore, the profitability of this business is highly dependent on the capabilities of the master. A good craftsman makes pipes of high quality material at a cost of 11,000 ... 100,000 rubles each. A beginner craftsman can count on 2-10 thousand rubles per pipe.
You can increase your profits by manufacturing additional accessories - pipe stands, cases, covers, ashtrays, replaceable mouthpieces, tube packers, tobacco boxes and so on. Smoking tobacco is a long process, furnished with all kinds of traditions and devices. Having studied the topic well, you can understand that making a pipe is only a small part of this entertaining home business.
By the way, for those who have almost completely studied the topic of smoking pipes, hookah is also considered a pipe for smoking tobacco.
Purchased smoking pipes cannot always satisfy all requirements, so it is better to make a unique smoking pipe with your own hands and feel like a real master. This requires the simplest materials, a little patience and imagination - and then you can get an excellent pipe with a unique and inimitable design.
Making a smoking pipe with your own hands
It is not so difficult to make a smoking pipe with your own hands using materials at hand, but its cost will be higher than the purchased one. Manufacturing will require some tools and materials, knowledge of the tube device and patience, but even so, the quality of the first copies will be low.
The structure of the tube and the name of all its parts can be easily found on the Internet, as well as a diagram of its structure. If before starting work it turned out that there were no necessary tools, then the manufacture of the mouthpiece and briar would have to be abandoned. You need to take a ready-made block and a standard acrylic mouthpiece, this will greatly facilitate the task. You can order these items in specialized online stores or on classified sites. In order for the elements to fit together along the connectors, they must be purchased from the same seller: then there is no need to sharpen the parts by adjusting them to the desired size.
In order to make a pipe for smoking, you need a minimum set of tools:
- File;
- Sanding paper of varying grain size;
- A set of drills of various diameters and lengths;
- Vice;
- Joiner's machine.
Beginner's Guide - How to smoke a pipe properly?
Working with a workpiece
To work with the workpiece, a joiner's vice is used: they increase the accuracy and quality of work. Clutching the block in a vice, they draw a pencil around the contour of the future tube. The excess is cut off with a hacksaw, but then you will have to process it with a file. Grinding the desired shape, they also use a sanding belt. At this stage, this stage is over. Next, a drilling machine is used to quickly and accurately make a hole in the tobacco chamber. To make a channel hole, several drills with a diameter of 3-4 mm are needed. In addition, it must be elongated - it will not be easy to find such a drill, you will have to look. Alternatively, a long drill is modified by sharpening it to a curved shape. For mortise, you need a drill with a diameter of 7-10 mm.
The drills are specially wrapped in soft material. In order not to make the hole more than necessary, the depth of the holes is measured: the drill lying at an angle should not move to the side. The edge of the briar is carefully trimmed so that the outline is perpendicular to the flue duct. It is necessary to mark the axis on the sides of the workpiece in order to maintain accuracy. Drilling begins at low speeds so as not to damage the workpiece with a heated drill.
Compliance with the calculated depth of the holes is necessary in order not to make a mistake when working with the tobacco chamber. The workpiece is removed from the vise, after which the correctness of the grooves is checked. Then the mortise is drilled: it is important to observe the marked axes. If the drill in the channel moves to the side during drilling, you can correct the axes by changing the shape of the tube. When the hole is ready, the edge of the mortise is filed with a file. After completing this step, a hole is drilled for the tobacco chamber. For this, an already prepared curved drill is used. The workpiece is removed from the vise so that you can make sure that the axes are set correctly. After that, they start working again. Drill carefully, observing the required depth so that the channel merges neatly with the bottom of the chamber. Drill the remaining depth manually for greater accuracy.
Mouthpiece
For manufacturing, you will need an ebonite bar of the required length. Most often they use imported material, since its quality is higher than domestic. Having drilled a place for the Teflon trunnion, take out the workpiece and check the correctness of the hole made. The required hole depth is clearly observed. Then connect the mouthpiece to the first blank by gluing. To do this, drip epoxy glue to the bottom of the trunnion and, without changing its position on the machine, insert the trunnion into the briar. Remove excess glue before drying.
Now you need to connect the mouthpiece to the briar by drilling a smoke channel in the first one. You need to drill consistently, gradually increasing the depth. The drills must be small in diameter to reach the end of the channel. Having reached the end of the workpiece, the drill will come out from the back side. The workpiece is now removed from the machine. Check the holes made and clean the workpiece from dust.
Mouthpiece flare
After connecting both parts of the tube, it remains to make a bell of the mouthpiece. This is the part of the tube that is held directly in the mouth, so it must be of the correct diameter and neither too narrow nor too wide. For this, a special needle is used. Carefully insert the needle into the channel and swing the workpiece until a gap of the desired diameter is formed. From this moment, the workpiece ceases to be a raw product and takes on the appearance of a real smoking pipe. To make it look really beautiful, you need to do some grinding and polishing.
After completing the main stage, carefully clean the workpiece from the remnants of glue and dust. Having carefully examined the edges of the workpiece and the shape of the tube, mark those places that need to be corrected before starting the final work.
Completion of work
Sanding paper is required for sanding. It is best to use a sanding disc. It will provide a quick and smooth sanding surface, while hand sanding will take much longer. If you use a disc, it is inserted into a drilling machine and gently greased with a special polishing paste. This will give the workpiece the desired smoothness and avoid damage during grinding.
When finished sanding the outside, you need to sand the inner holes of the tube. For processing the smoke channel, thin wooden sticks are used, tightly wrapped in fine sanding paper. No grinding paste is used in the mouthpiece, as it may remain on the channel walls.
Now the tube is almost finished and it remains to be painted to get the finished look. Stains are used to color the pipe. They are of several types: water-based, chemical and alcoholic. It is best to use alcohol or water stains. Chemicals are a mixture of chemical components that will adversely affect both the product and health. After each stage of polishing, a stain is applied: in this case, it will be absorbed and make the wood pattern more expressive. Different stains are used to give the mouthpiece and briard different colors.
When the tube is finished painting, it must be allowed to dry. Then they paint over the places that need to be given a specific color or shade. When the tube is completely dry, it is ready to use. Falling asleep tobacco and lighting, you can feel the pleasant taste of a unique homemade pipe made at home.
