How to hem a wooden ceiling. The subtleties of filing the ceiling on wooden beams

Wooden beams are structures that are found not only in private houses, but also in old buildings of a 3-5-story type. To make the ceiling surface even and suitable for finishing cladding, it is necessary to make a high-quality rough ceiling according to wooden beams. Works are available for do-it-yourself with minimum set tools and materials.

Before hemming the ceiling surface, you should understand the layers that make up interfloor overlap in wooden house.

Overlay layers from top to bottom:

1. Most upper layer- boardwalk, which can be the basis for the finish coating or serve as a fine finish.
2. Vapor barrier membrane is a required layer. Membrane fabric prevents the formation of condensate on wooden structures, prevents the formation of wet areas, mold and fungus growth.
3. Thermal insulation. Fits in any case, regardless of whether the premises are residential or not above the floor. If the attic is not residential, the energy efficiency of the house increases, residential - the sound insulation of the floors increases.
4. Waterproofing. The layer is designed to protect the insulation and wooden structures from moisture. If you do not lay waterproofing, moist air, hot steam, rising to the ceiling, will destroy thermal insulation material– which will reduce the practical characteristics of the product.
5. Draft ceiling – last layer, which is finished with a finishing lining.

Sometimes boardwalk is left unfinished, especially when planks are used. good quality. If, after the arrangement of the ceilings, the flooring is to be laid on the floor above, then a layer of vapor barrier is laid on top of the insulation, then a wooden floor base can be laid.

How to hem a rough ceiling on wooden beams

The range of products is wide, so when choosing how to hem the ceiling in a private house, you should pay attention to the interior design of the room:

• ceiling sheet materials: chipboard, fiberboard, plywood;
• plastic decor resists moisture well, but you will have to make high-quality vapor barrier to prevent condensation from accumulating;
• wood will become the best choice affordable in price and quality.

In rooms with changes in humidity levels, temperature fluctuations, resinous wood should not be chosen so that the resin does not drip down when released. Edged boards are suitable for hemming the ceiling, the price of which is from $ 80 per m3, plywood will cost less - from $ 2.6 per sheet.

Tools and materials for work

To get the job done you will need:

• board 25 mm;
• fasteners: nails or self-tapping screws 45-55 mm;
• cranial timber for arranging boards above beams;
• sheets of mineral wool for insulation or mineral wool with dry sawdust in a ratio of 50:50;
• waterproofing (film) and vapor barrier membrane.

If the filing of the ceiling on wooden beams is made with plywood, a rail and bars will come in handy for decorating the frame from the crate.

The following tools will come in handy: a saw or a jigsaw, a hammer, a stapler, a screwdriver, a pencil, a tape measure, a building or laser level, a square, a strong support or a stepladder. You will also need to stock up on personal protective equipment: gloves, mask.

Advice! The board is a more practical material - there is no need to buy additional slats for the crate. Fastening boards is made directly on the beams, it is stronger and cheaper.

Boarding ceiling boards

Having figured out how to hem the ceiling along wooden beams, you need to know how to do it.

Algorithm of work on the installation of a wooden subfloor:

• fix the boards on the logs with screws or nails;
• lay insulation, waterproofing material on top of the flooring.

Attention! It is important to prepare the boards according to the size of the ceiling so that there are no gaps or gaps during fastening.

The option of fastening the boards from the bottom of the log is the simplest, but in this case the beams are covered, it is difficult to get to them, if necessary. It is much better to sheathe the logs with a board on top.

Stages of work:

• fix the cranial bars on the beams;
• lay boards on a bar;
• lay out sheets of heat, vapor barrier, and materials can be laid out both above and below the boards;
• close the structure with plywood or other material.

In this case, the logs and the cranial bar will be visible and will become a good decor for the room.

On a note! All elements made of wood must be properly dried, pre-treated with impregnations from rot, bugs, and fire.

Ceiling lining with plywood

This option requires the arrangement of a crate, which will become a frame for mounting plywood sheets. When choosing how to hem the ceiling, it is worth evaluating the evenness of the surface - plywood sheets on the crate help to hide all the flaws in the evenness of the ceiling.

Advice! The option with plywood is chosen by the owners of houses, where the ceilings still retain their strength qualities, but have lost their aesthetic appeal. In addition, this design will withstand a thick layer of insulation.

Work is carried out in the following order:

• fix the vapor barrier membrane on the beams with a stapler;
• from above, form a frame from a bar (40x60 mm) with a step, half plywood sheet;
• hem sheets of plywood on the crate, fasteners with self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter and crosswise;
• lay sheets of insulation.

You can lay out insulation between the crate timber, and then hem the plywood - the choice remains with the owner. The main thing is that the sheets of material fit together without gaps and align the horizontal level of the frame to obtain a flat ceiling plane.

Is it necessary to process the draft ceiling

Having figured out how to hem the ceiling in a wooden house, you should not forget that the design requires additional protection, especially if there are fluctuations in humidity levels in the room. Processing includes the following steps: sanding for smoothness, puttying the seams between the sheets and fastener points. As soon as the putty mixture dries, sand the surface again and treat it with an impregnation with antiseptic and antiprene.

If the ceiling will be sewn up with plasterboard, metal profiles are mounted on the draft ceiling, on which it is then sewn sheet material. And you can leave the plywood coating without decor, impregnated with tinting impregnation, matte or glossy varnish, paints.

I plan to hem a rough ceiling (25mm board) directly to the beams (200x100) from below (distance m / y beams 1m along the axes), and then a frame with plasterboard. How strong is such a design when insulated with 50% mineral wool-50% sawdust? And another question worries - there is no waterproofing in the places where the beams are laid in the walls (expanded concrete block + silicate brick) - how to keep the beams healthy?

Yesterday I answered a similar question, I decided to print for a long time and now I will paste it. Read something useful for yourself, you will find: "1. It is much more reliable to use beams not 150 * 150, but two beams of 150 * 50 knocked together in the ceiling. This will be enough. If the distance between the walls is large, a strip of 1 centimeter lantern 150 wide is sewn in between the boards along the entire length beams.This will betray significant strength and resistance to loads.Beam 150 * 150 (in the ceiling this is not effective because for its correct operation, the height of the beam must be greater than its width. For example, 150 * 100 or 200 * 150) bends even under its own weight In addition, in such a beam there are weak points (knots), and in a sewn of two these places overlap. In general, it is much more reliable ... 2. Regarding the insulation of the ceiling between floors 1 and 2.! we hammer the nails in about 150-180mm on them from beam to beam we stretch the knitting wire (cross section is about 0.7-1mm) making two turns on each nail.Then we hammer the nails completely at the same time, the wire will still be stretched ... Next, on the beams from below, on top of the wire, we settle the vapor barrier, carefully gluing the joints with double-sided tape or special bituminous tape. The vapor barrier should not let moisture through, especially when pouring the floor on the 1st floor, there will be a lot of evaporation and the insulation will become unusable. Further, from below, along the entire length of the beam, we fill the rail, and in your case it will be a board 100 * 25. Thus, we additionally strengthen the wire (on which the insulation will actually lie) and the vapor barrier. Here, in principle, is the whole fraud from the bottom of the beams. Next, if you want to make an independent frame, attaching it to the rails that we knocked out from the bottom of the beams, and if you want a stretch ceiling, it is attached to the walls and has nothing to do with the beams (Although stretch ceiling throughout the house? Maybe think over this position again.) On top of the beams, we freely settle the insulation with a layer of 100-150mm - this is enough for the ceiling. Then you have a "50mm floor tongue, glassine, 12mm plywood, finish coating."-BREEED! This is done if the distance between the beams is 1000-1200mm. In your case, this is a tongue and groove of 35mm, you want plywood 8-10mm, although you can also use OSB or chipboard 10-12mm and a fine finish. Overlapping the 2nd floor on the same scheme but the insulation is at least 200mm. (There is less no-no because 70% of the heat rising up goes through the poorly insulated ceiling.)"
Insulation with 50% mineral wool-50% sawdust is the Stone Age, or the Woody Age, or just a shitty idea, call it what you want. Sawdust is a fire hazardous, insect-infested insulation that has poor heat and noise insulation by modern standards. A 100mm layer of mineral wool replaces somewhere around a 400mm layer of this wood waste. If you have a lot of this wood shavings - drown her stove, smoke fat on it, just throw it away in the end, but don’t use it as a heater in any case - THIS IS CRAZY!
Don’t bother with the floor beams ... Of course, it is desirable to waterproof, impregnate, process. But even without this, there will be enough of them for your lifetime, and then let the grandchildren-great-grandchildren rack their brains on how to repair or replace them. Well, if you are going to live forever, then of course you can "dismantle, waterproof, install in place." As the esteemed citizen Resa123 advises!

How to hem the ceiling in a private house, bathhouse, garage, in the country house or veranda is not an idle question, because after the completion of construction there remains an ugly rough ceiling, that is, just a wooden floor made of bare beams and boards. But after all, without a high-quality ceiling, one cannot consider finishing, even in utility room, completed, and filing is an easy way to give the floor aesthetics, and at the same time insulate.

Important. False ceiling should be distinguished from suspended. Between the suspended and the ceiling, 8–10 cm of empty space is left, while the hemmed one is mounted almost close to the ceiling.

False ceiling installation rules

1. Unlike concrete ceilings in a city apartment, wooden ceilings in a country house or in a country house can be hemmed with almost any material, and the beams can be beautifully beaten in the interior.
2. Before starting work, the draft structure must be insulated and its air conditioning should be considered.
3. The ideal material for the bathroom is plastic, because it does not mold or rot at all.
4. Balconies are most often sheathed with plastic, metal slats or clapboard, because these materials are resistant to temperature extremes.
5. Open verandas, gazebos, terraces are sheathed with plastic or siding, rack and cassette structures are suitable. Due to low moisture resistance, drywall is not suitable.
6. The bath requires a moisture-resistant and heat-resistant finish. It is impossible to use resinous wood, plywood, chipboard, plastic in the bath. by the most good choice there will be a lining made of linden or aspen.

Draft ceiling before finishing

How to hem a ceiling

Wood

This is the most best material for finishing country house. Among its advantages are enviable durability, the ability to retain heat, beauty, the ability to give the room comfort and create a special microclimate. The materials of this group vary greatly in cost, so you can always pick up something for the budget, and for elite repair.

• Plywood

Plywood filing requires knowledge of some nuances. Plywood (except laminated) must be treated with an antiseptic, only then it will last for decades. The frame is made of a bar, and in such a way that the edges of the sheets fall on the bar, otherwise they will sag. The sheets are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, the seams are puttied before painting the ceiling.

• clapboard

Inexpensive lining has always been a popular material for sheathing. The frame for fixing ordinary and eurolining can be made from a metal profile or a bar. The frame is installed perpendicular to the direction of the lining. The lining itself must first be allowed to mature in the room for at least 48 hours, otherwise there is a risk that it will dry out or swell.

Finishing the bath clapboard

• Boards

This is the most unpretentious way to hem the ceiling. The frame is not needed, the boards are nailed immediately to the beams, perpendicular to them.

Ordinary boards can be amazingly good

• Plates and panels

From woodworking waste, excellent finishing materials are produced in the form of slabs and panels, all of which can be used to finish the ceiling in a private house. OSB panels, fiberboard and MDF boards have excellent thermal insulation properties and are beautiful. Thanks to double or single-sided lamination, they are easy to care for - just wipe them from dust. In terms of texture and color, plates and panels imitate natural wood but are much cheaper.

They weigh a little, this allows you to install simple lightweight frames under them. Mounted on a pre-installed frame made of wooden beams. As in the case of plywood sheets, the joints should fall on the bar. Each slab is first nailed in the center and in the corners, then along the perimeter and in other places. Sheets have large area, while they are flexible, so you need to nail them with high quality so that they do not sag over time.

MDF boards are well suited for finishing a country house

Plastic

Another inexpensive material that does not look as beautiful as wood, but has an ideal resistance to moisture. Used in bathrooms, toilets, kitchens. plastic ceiling is a smooth and even surface overhead without the cost of Painting works. It is easy and quick to assemble, even alone, because the material is almost weightless and made in the form of narrow panels that can be held in the hands of one person.

Frame under plastic trim in wooden houses they are made from a bar 2.5–3.0 cm wide, on concrete ceilings- from metal guides. The frame pitch is 50 cm, the panels are fixed with self-tapping screws. Finally, a decorative plinth is fixed along the perimeter of the ceiling, covering the joints.

metal slats

Slatted false ceilings are gaining popularity mainly due to the fashion for them. Reiki can be metal (steel, aluminum) and "metal-like". The great advantage of the material is complete Fire safety, the disadvantage is that there is no heat and sound insulation. Care consists in regular washing without abrasive materials, since it is quite easy to scratch the slats.

The rack construction is very quickly and skillfully assembled without fasteners, like a children's designer, it is practically weightless. But still, in wooden houses it is better not to make such ceilings, but to hem concrete floors with them.

Metal slats are not afraid of dampness and do not rot, but wooden floors under them quickly deteriorate

Siding

The siding ceiling will look appropriate on the porch, open veranda, loggia or utility room, because it is traditionally considered a material for exterior finish houses. Having trained on the ceiling of the veranda, you can then sheathe the outer walls of the house with siding yourself. It is a very durable and moisture resistant material, has big choice colors and textures. Despite operating under open sky retains its color and durability for decades.

There are metal and vinyl siding. Vinyl, flexible and inexpensive, well suited for ceiling decoration. Simple installation on a branded profile and low weight make it possible to mount the panels on the ceiling alone. Vinyl siding can swell slightly due to temperature changes, so when installing, you need to leave an extra centimeter around the perimeter of the ceiling. Care is the easiest - water plus any detergent.

Hemmed with drywall, left beams in plain sight for decoration

Drywall

Drywall - recognized leader for the construction of false ceilings in any residential premises. They trim the ceilings in seasonal country houses, houses with permanent residence, in huge, like an old castle, country houses. It has the only drawback - it is not sufficiently moisture resistant, warps and deforms from steam and dampness.

Tip: the industry produces more expensive moisture resistant drywall for rooms with a difficult microclimate.

The frame for drywall is made from a profile or bar 5x3 or 4x4 cm, the sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. For a false ceiling, unlike a suspended one, it is not necessary suspension mounts, mount sheets directly on the frame.

Video: filing with wooden beams

False ceilings do not "eat up" the height of the room. In a sense, they are easier to make than hanging ones, and the conditions country life make it possible not to think too much about how to hem the ceiling, use inexpensive materials that cannot be used in a city apartment.

During the repair and redevelopment of the premises, great attention is paid to ceilings. The owners carefully approach the choice of materials and methods of finishing the upper part of the room. Today, at the peak of popularity, there is a ceiling filing, which is used not only for finishing and masking ceilings from concrete slabs, but also on wooden beams in private wooden houses.

Peculiarities

False ceiling is a type hinged structures. At the same time, it will be faster to hem the ceiling than to mount suspension system. No need to build a bulky frame, consisting of different elements.

When arranging this type of ceiling, the supporting structural elements are attached to the base base or beams if the filing is done in a wooden house. As a result, the load on the floor becomes less, and the amount of materials that can be used for decorative finishes, increases.

Another advantage of a false ceiling is that it takes some height away from the room. So, for example, clapboard lining will reduce the room in height by 3-4 cm, and suspended ceiling from GKL, mounted on metal carcass, "eat" at least 10 cm of distance from the floor to the ceiling surface.

How to sew up the ceiling: the choice of materials

Before choosing a plating method, you need to understand that facing materials must correspond climatic conditions rooms to withstand temperature fluctuations. At the same time, it is often necessary to install under the ceiling, if the ceiling is finished in a private house or on the top floor of a multi-storey building, the so-called "pie", which includes three layers: heat, hydro and vapor barrier.

Among the common materials for filing the ceiling, which are chosen for cladding not only in an apartment, but also in a private wooden or brick house, include: GKL, wooden lining, edged board, plywood sheets, plastic panels and etc.

It is used to level the ceiling surface, the construction of complex structures with built-in lighting. With the help of drywall, beams can be reliably masked if you plan to exclude these load-bearing elements from the interior. The result is an even and smooth finish.

GKL ceilings are combined with different types interiors, which is why they are so popular. At the final stage of finishing, the structure is covered with a layer of putty, painted water-based paints, wallpapered or decorated with plaster.

Installation of drywall is more difficult than filing the ceiling with other materials. Sheets are mounted on a pre-installed frame, consisting of metal profiles. Guides and ceiling elements are mounted to the counter-lattice on self-tapping screws.

On a note! In rooms with high level humidity, you need to use drywall labeled moisture resistant for finishing. Where there is stove heating, choose fire-resistant GKL.

The advantages of the material include:

• price;
• ease of processing;
• wide selection design solutions for finishing;
• environmental friendliness.

Among the minuses of GKL are:

• fragility;
• deforms when wet;
• heavy weight requires the installation of a reliable frame base.

This material is impossible better fit for finishing ceilings in a private wooden house. Environmentally friendly and natural lining will create a favorable microclimate in the room, provide reliable thermal insulation of the room, and protect from extraneous noise.

Such ceilings will last a long time, and throughout the life of the ceiling will look beautiful and aesthetically pleasing. A variety of wood textures (oak, ash, birch, pine, etc.), from which the lining is made, allows you to choose a decorative finish that suits different interior styles.

The standard width of the panels is from 3 to 15 cm, the length is up to 6 m. Thanks to this, it will be possible to cover the ceiling without combining individual parts. You can give the lining the necessary shade with the help of a stain, and change the texture by covering the surface of the decorative ceiling with varnish.

The lining is mounted to the logs on self-tapping screws or nails, the panels are fastened together according to the “thorn-groove” principle.

It is also used if you need to hem the ceiling in a wooden house. However, there are gaps between adjacent boards, so rough ceilings are often built from them, which are finished in other ways. To hem the ceiling with a board, choose an inch 25 mm thick, which is fixed at an angle of 45 ° to the sidewall of the rail on the screed or through.

The benefits of this material include:

1. ease of installation, sheathing can be done independently;
2. strength;
3. heat and sound insulation;
4. nice natural wood look.

If the boards are used as decorative cladding, before installation, the material is treated with special compounds that increase the wood's resistance to moisture and mold.

Flaws:

• the need to install a vapor barrier in the ceiling space;
• instability to sudden changes in temperature;
• when cleaning, do not use aggressive chemicals;
• boards are not always carefully processed in production, therefore they are a favorable environment for the development of harmful insects;
• are expensive.

How to decorate the interior in a private house or apartment.

Plywood is inexpensive and eco-friendly material, which is often used for ceiling decoration. Before fastening, the sheets of material are also treated with special impregnations, and the plywood is mounted on a pre-installed frame made of wooden beams. In this case, the edges of adjacent sheets should converge in the middle of one beam. Otherwise, sagging and deformation of the coating cannot be avoided.

After filing the ceiling with plywood, the joints between adjacent sheets are sealed with putty, the ceiling is painted. In order not to hide the natural texture of wood, plywood is covered with a layer of transparent varnish, or a shade is added with a stain.

The fastening of sheets is carried out by analogy with the installation of plywood. To do this, first, wooden beams 20x40 mm are installed to the ceiling. The bars are fixed flush with the lags, after cutting recesses in the lags. Sheets of material are placed in checkerboard pattern or with seam offset. Also, throughout the work, they monitor fiberboard sheets didn't sag.

The main difference between the material is instability to high humidity and deformation when wet. Therefore, this type of finish is not suitable for the ceiling of a bathroom or an unheated loggia, balcony.

MDF panels appearance remind natural wood, so they trim the ceilings in wooden houses, while maintaining a single style of the room. At the same time, at the price of MDF, it will be cheaper than lining, it is easier to work with the material. In addition to aesthetic characteristics, MDF panels have thermal insulation properties.

Among the minuses are:

• fear of UV rays. Exposed panels natural light lose their original color
• often sag due to their small thickness, so they attach the parts to the frame with self-tapping screws in increments of 60 cm.

Despite the fact that the material is used for cladding surfaces outside houses, it has also found application in ceiling decoration. And not only on open verandas but also in residential areas.

Among the advantages of siding, resistance to moisture and strength, a wide selection of colors and shades are distinguished.

Siding is available in spirit types:

• vinyl - flexible, inexpensive. Better suited for ceiling decoration;
• metal.

When installing siding between the finishing material and the walls around the perimeter, leave at least 1 cm free space, because under the influence of temperature changes the material swells a little. The panels are attached to a special branded profile.

They are also among the inexpensive materials for finishing the ceiling, but they are resistant to dampness and moisture, so they are the best suited for finishing the bathroom or kitchen. After installing the panels, it turns out smooth and smooth surface which is easy to clean and free from dirt.

Plastic elements are mounted simply, to build a frame in a wooden house, wooden bars 2.5-3 cm wide are used. If you need to hem a concrete ceiling, the frame is assembled from a metal profile, which is attached to the base surface every 50 cm. Joints and gaps between decorative ceiling and the walls are covered with plinth.

What are the types and sizes.

The slatted false ceiling is widely used today in interior decoration. Beautiful and durable design original complements different styles and directions in the interior. Reiki are made of metal or produced "under the metal".

The main advantage is resistance to fire, minus - they do not have heat and sound insulation properties.

The design is mounted quickly, you can handle the work yourself. Such a ceiling requires regular maintenance ( wet cleaning), but without the use of abrasive detergents.

How to install - step by step instructions.

To increase space in one-story house made of wood, you can not cover the beams on the ceiling with finishing materials, but decorate with carvings, varnish and decorate with lighting in the form of hidden lighting. This is done with solid beams. If the building is old, then the beams will look the same, so it is better to hem the ceiling. But first, the beams are cleaned of mold and coated with protective impregnations.

In general, the basic scheme of an interfloor or roof ceiling is identical:

• a floor made of boards in the form of a flooring, if there is a second floor on top;
• vapor barrier preventing escape warm air from the room, extends the life of the roof;
• the insulation is mounted in the presence of an unheated attic on top of the room;
• waterproofing is represented by a special membrane (film), which provides reliable protection wood from moisture;
• the draft ceiling acts as a support for all layers and serves as the basis for the construction of the finishing (decorative) ceiling.

When the overlap between floors is ready, you can proceed to the final finish - to hem the ceilings.

How to hem a ceiling with insulation

Before hemming the ceiling with the selected material, prepare the base base. And, if there are no difficulties with the overlap of the slabs, then the beams require a more careful approach:

• furniture is taken out of the room, the electrical wiring is turned off;
• remove the previous finish from the ceiling surface, knock down the plaster;
• dismantle the rack crate, remove the insulation layer;
• beams are cleaned of debris and mold, treated with antiseptics.

The evenness of the beams is checked using laser level. If there are differences, they are eliminated. If the ceiling is completely sewn from the bottom side, it is leveled with a counter-lattice. To do this, use a beam with a section of 40x60 mm or profiles under the GKL. From the bottom side, a vapor barrier layer is mounted on the beams, which is attached to construction stapler. The film is overlapped.

The beam to the beams is fixed in a transverse arrangement with self-tapping screws. To level the base, wooden jumpers are laid between the timber and the beams. With strong differences between the beams, special U-shaped brackets for plasterboards are used.

A heater 100-150 mm thick is laid in the space between the beams.

If the niches between the beams are not completely sewn up, then the bearing elements are fixed on both sides wooden beam on the screws so that it is flush with the beams. And the vapor barrier is mounted from the side of the floor of the upper floor or attic space. The cladding is fixed to the bars, and on the second floor the floor is laid from the boards.

When preparatory stages completed, laying of hydro and vapor barriers is completed, proceed to decorative cladding ceiling surface.

An affordable way for self-implementation will be filing with boards:

• first measure and cut the boards to the desired length. The cut is made with a jigsaw on the reverse side so that the edges are even;
• the board is screwed with self-tapping screws or nailed to the counter-lattice;
• if lining is used, it is fixed according to the “thorn-groove” principle, plastic panels are also mounted;
• when the entire ceiling is sheathed, the seams between the walls and the cladding are closed with decorative skirting boards.

If drywall is used as a cladding, then the frame is first mounted. To do this, guide profiles are attached around the perimeter, and ceiling elements are fixed to the beams. The result is a crate to which the GKL sheets are attached. The main condition is that the joint of adjacent sheets falls on one profile.

be moisture resistant;

be easy to care for;

do not be afraid of sudden changes in temperature;

to look nice.

More often, for finishing bathroom ceilings, structures from:

• plastic panels that are quickly assembled into a single plane, easy to clean, resistant to mold;
• metal rails. The coating will retain its original appearance for a long time. At the same time, the design is successfully combined with different types of lighting devices;
• drywall. To do this, choose GKL marked moisture resistant, and water-dispersion silicate or silicone paints are used for coloring sheets.

Ceiling filing will add aesthetics to the room, create and maintain a comfortable microclimate in the house throughout the service life. If you approach the work responsibly, purchase quality materials and carefully perform finishing, decorative false ceiling will last at least 10 years.

Video how to knock out the ceiling (vapor barrier and board)

The appearance of any room largely depends on how the ceiling looks. As for the private, then in it great importance has the quality of rough work. Let's talk about such a variant of finishing work as a rough ceiling on wooden beams.

Houses with wooden floors

The draft ceiling slab differs depending on the structure of the building. A draft ceiling is a ceiling erected during the construction of a house.

In a wooden private house, the draft floor has the following parameters:

• the basis of the floor are wooden beams;
• the component of the ceiling surface is the design of the draft ceiling;
• with the help of a draft floor, a ceiling surface is constructed, then Finishing work.

Interior finishing work usually begins with the arrangement of the ceiling. Therefore, an important task is the question of how to hem the draft ceiling in a private house. You can sheathe the ceiling surface with drywall, or mount tensile structure. Another option for ceiling sheathing is OSB boards.

Materials for hemming the ceiling surface

Depending on how to sheathe the draft ceiling in a private house, it will depend general form premises. You can choose between the following materials:

• drywall. The material is attached to the draft ceiling with an adhesive, or mounted to the frame. If the installation takes place in a room with high humidity, then you need to select a moisture-resistant material;
• plastic panels. Panels are glued liquid nails on a timber structure;
• lining made of wood. Ecological, safe material with long term operation. Wooden slats mounted on a crate or to a solid base. For fastening, use self-tapping screws or nails with a missing hat;
• MDF panels. The material can imitate wood, natural stones, plants. The panels are fixed with the help of special fasteners that press the slats to the base or crate;
• plywood sheets, which are pre-treated with an antiseptic solution. After installation, it is necessary to seal the seams, then paint;
• plastic siding. Such material is used for cladding bathrooms, balconies, terraces.

What material to choose for sheathing a rough ceiling covering depends on the purpose of the room in which repair work as well as from the budget.

Advantages and disadvantages of OSB

OSB boards (oriented strand board) for hemming the draft ceiling are made from pressed wood shavings (3-4 layers). The layers are held together with boric acid, synthetic wax and various resins. In order for the sheets to be strong, in the middle layer the chips are located across, and in the extreme layers - along the sheet.

The advantages of facing the rough coating of the OSB ceiling are as follows:

• low cost;
• moisture resistant, due to its structure;
• simple installation, which you can handle yourself;
• long service life;
• the material is not afraid of insects;
• no preliminary surface preparation with putty is required;
• during installation, you can immediately insulate the structure.

There are few cons, but they are still there:

• the composition of the adhesive base includes phenol, which is toxic to humans;
• plates are easily deformed;
• exposed to high temperatures;
• insufficient vapor permeability.

When the pros and cons are known finishing coating, you can figure out how to make a draft ceiling in a country cottage.

Cost of work

Prices for OSB installation on the ceiling are based on the type and amount of work performed. Soda may include the following preparatory work:

1. dismantling of the old coating
2. markup;
3. calculation of the height of the ceiling;
4. insulation installation;
5. cladding with tiles.

The price of work on the draft ceiling is usually indicated in square meters. The table below shows approximate prices for Moscow and the region:

Type of work	unit of measurement	Cost, rub.)
Removing putty and paint	m2	300
Removing plaster	-	300
Dismantling the crate	-	2000
Sawing OSB boards (18 mm)	-	1000
Antiseptic treatment	-	200
Draft ceiling device (unplaned board)	-	200
Warming with mineral wool	-	60
Steam and waterproofing	-	60
Mounting the frame metallic profile or wooden beam	-	3500
Scheme of fixing OSB boards	-	From 4500
Markup for installing OSB sheets	-	200-400
OSB plate installation	-	600-3000

Experts will help you complete necessary calculations, determine right amount sheets OSB boards take accurate measurements of the space. Prices for construction and repair work from different companies, of course, vary. It depends on the method of installation of finishing materials, on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling covering, on the thickness of the plates.

Having become acquainted with average cost, you can make a choice - entrust the repair work to specialists or perform the installation of a rough ceiling coating yourself.

The sequence of preparatory activities

Sheathing of the draft ceiling needs preliminary preparation, performed in the following sequence:

1. you need to free, as far as possible, the room from furniture, or cover it with covers;
2. disable lighting, isolate electrical wiring;
3. completely strayed old layer plaster from the ceiling;
4. the old lathing is dismantled, and with it the insulation is removed;
5. wooden beams should be cleaned of accumulated debris, remove mold. It is advisable to treat the beams with an antiseptic solution after cleaning.

Before installing a rough ceiling covering, it is necessary to check the condition of the electrical wiring. Perfect option- replace with a new one.

The working surface is prepared and you can proceed to the main stage of work.

Installation work

Check out how the installation of a draft ceiling on wooden beams is carried out in the video below. The workflow consists of the following steps:

• waterproofing is done. A membrane film is laid between the wooden beams. If visible gaps form between the film strips, then they must be sealed with adhesive tape;
• insulation (polystyrene or basalt wool) is placed between the beams. It is necessary to lay the insulation in such a way as to exclude the presence of cracks;
• a vapor-tight material is mounted on top of the insulation. Staples are used for fastening to the film;
• raw boards are fixed on wooden beams.

This type of installation activities is carried out in a private wooden house on wooden floors.

Installation on reinforced concrete slabs

If it is necessary to mount a rough coating on a reinforced concrete slab, then the following repair measures are carried out:

1. first, as for actions with wooden beams, a work surface is prepared. It is necessary to clean it from the previous coating - wallpaper, plaster, tiles;
2. between ceilings the ceiling joints are cleared and sealed with cement mortar;
3. All cracks are sealed with sealant. You can use mounting foam for this purpose;
4. the ceiling space must be covered with a primer layer.

The primer layer should dry completely, then you need to apply 2 more of the same layers. Each layer dries for about a day.

Concrete slabs are never perfect. Over time, they can become deformed, so preparatory work is important.

The preparatory activities are completed, consider how to make a draft ceiling in a private house on a concrete slab:

1. beacons are installed (dowels made of plastic or self-tapping screws), using a level;
2. a layer of starting plaster is laid with a spatula;
3. a layer of liquid primer is applied on top.

Upon completion of the work on the rough ceiling, you can (if necessary) start painting the ceiling or laying tiles.

In the process of installing a rough ceiling covering, there are some subtleties, the knowledge of which allows you to save materials and do the job efficiently:

• when mounting with boards, it is important to correctly calculate the dimensions of the elements so that as little waste as possible remains;
• if the length of the board is longer than necessary, then the slats are not fixed to the last beam, if less, they are cut to the length of the last beam. It must be taken into account that the slats can be fixed from the back of the beam;
• wooden slats are considered the best option, because they are mounted much faster than other material;
• vapor barrier materials are laid taking into account how the room will be used. The material is laid around the entire perimeter of the ceiling surface. With this layer wooden ceiling will not rot and mold.

If it is not possible to mount thermal insulation on concrete pavement, then the suspended frame structure is first performed.