How to plaster a concrete ceiling with your own hands. How to plaster the ceiling: a description of the process and video instruction

Ceiling plastering, like any other type of finish, requires careful surface preparation. This is done regardless of the finishing method:

• traditional, with wet plastering;
• dry, using sheet material.

Both methods end with the application finishing layer of plaster... The choice of material depends on the work to be done: repairing the ceiling, leveling the concrete slab, finishing the ceiling with decorative plaster.

This finishing method is suitable for rooms with high ceilings and creates space for hidden engineering systems: ventilation ducts, cable ducts. GKL joints and sheets are putty with a thin layer of finishing plaster, then the surface is painted or pasted over with wallpaper.

The traditional way wet plaster known since antiquity. A wooden slatted frame (shingle) was prepared. Then they applied 3 layers of putty with a lime mixture:

1. A thickness of about 8 mm (3/8 in.) Was applied through the gaps between the planks to achieve a strong bond with the planks.
2. A so-called floating coating of approx. 6 mm (1/4 in.) To achieve a smooth finish on the final coat.
3. The latter (fitting or finishing) was about 3 mm (1/8 inch) for a trim for decoration.

Traditionally, the first and second layers were usually made up in a 1: 3 ratio of a mixture of lime dough for cleaning and quartz sand... Mixed animal hair, as a binder additive. The third layer is lime dough alone or 3: 1 for a fine sand mixture.

Modern gypsum plasters much harder and more fragile than the traditional lime dough used in older designs. This must be taken into account when renovating buildings.

Apartment buildings have concrete ceiling slabs... Their finishing consists in sealing the joints of the panels, followed by plastering. This method has advantages:

• room space is preserved;
• fire safety is provided;
• the possibility of timely elimination of defects;
• the possibility of creating designer decorative stucco molding.

The construction market has dry plaster mixes on cement, lime, gypsum base... There are decorative plaster mixes. Their composition includes additives that increase strength characteristics that reduce the setting time, improve water resistance. The main thing is ease of use.

The packages or the attached instructions indicate the amount of added water, the consumption of the mixture at a certain layer thickness per square meter, the technology of preparation and application to the surface. In order to plaster the ceiling with your own hands, buy a hand tool.

You will also need: construction knife, soft sponge, different grit sandpaper, hammer, grout, usually smooth comb, building level, container for mixing the mixture, mixer. We will get acquainted with other tools when performing work.

Attention! Plastering the ceiling with your own hands is best done on a fairly flat ceiling with a slight difference in height. The application of a thick leveling layer of plaster to the ceiling is carried out along the beacons. This kind of work requires skill.

Choosing the type of plaster. Repair of concrete surfaces: sealing of seams, cracks, chips - performed by plastering the ceiling cement mortar ... An inexpensive dry mix will do. "MixCity Tsemosloy"... In terms of technical characteristics, it is not inferior to expensive gypsum-based mixtures. Usage time 4 hours, which allows mixing large volumes and performing plastering of large areas.

You can plaster the ceiling with gypsum plaster, but you need to work with it quickly.

Attention! Dry mixtures are prepared based on the use for the time indicated on the package. Do not dilute the mixture, especially at the end of the term.

The applied layer without additional reinforcement is from 5 to 30 mm for walls. Ceilings are recommended to be reinforced with a special plaster mesh... The mixture contains mineral fillers and modified additives that improve the strength characteristics, the working solution is plastic, adheres tightly to the concrete surface, brickwork, gas silicate blocks, stone slabs... The choice of dry mixes is huge.

Entrust the specialists with which plaster to choose for the ceiling.

Preparatory work includes cleaning the ceiling from dirt and dust... Metal brush, scraper, spatula, detergents- clean the ceiling from old paint, loose plaster, another that has fallen into disrepair, finishing material... Panel joints, potholes and cracks are sealed with prepared plaster mortar from a dry mixture.

The surface to be repaired is left for the time of hardening (about a day). Then the seams are cleaned and primed. This is necessary for better adhesion of the plaster to the concrete surface.

There are deep penetration primers that protect against mold and mildew and reduce the consumption of finishing materials. It is recommended to prime the surface 2-3 times at intervals for better penetration. The joints with the walls and between the panels are glued with a reinforcing mesh (if necessary), and then a finishing layer is applied.

Then, at the request of the Customer, artistic plaster moldings are performed. This expensive type of decoration is performed by highly paid craftsmen. There are ready-made decorative fragments made of plaster or polyurethane. They are attached to the ceiling and wall. liquid nails... Looks rich, classic style.

Ready-made decorative plaster mixes... You can choose the appropriate tone and prepare decorative ceiling plaster with your own hands. Dyes are sold that are added to the mixed plaster solution to obtain the desired shade.

Plaster wooden ceiling

Considered above traditional way wet plastering with shingles. This method is laborious and requires a certain skill. It is much easier to align the ceiling GKL and then apply to the surface leveling layer of finishing plaster... Such work is called putty... Applying decorative plaster to the ceiling with this method will reduce the consumption of an expensive mixture, and the ceiling will look like this.

On the gypsum board is applied Venetian plaster ... The smooth glossy surface looks like marble. Plaster stucco molding will be performed under the chandelier. This is how it changed wooden ceiling performed by the master.

How to plaster the OSB ceiling correctly?

OSB boards are sheathed in the ceilings of many private houses built according to frame technologies... For better adhesion to the plaster, the OSB surface is glued with a masking net with PVA glue. Self-adhesive nets are available for sale.

Ceiling plastering on a grid is recommended in two steps: smooth with longitudinal and transverse layers. Excellent results when applied to the ceiling textured plaster... Various dyes are added to the usual mixture and, due to a professional set of filling techniques, they form decorative patterns on the ceiling. Use special rolling rollers, templates, devices.

Available for sale ready mix... It is beneficial to use them because they have high plasticity. The consumption is indicated on the plastic container, this allows you to buy the right amount putties. The relief surface of textured plaster hides small irregularities and small cracks.

How to plaster the ceiling with your own hands?

Even experienced plasterers, before plastering the ceiling, try various techniques drawing on a separate section of the sheet(imitating the ceiling). And only after a successful selection, this technique is used for the main ceiling. Train, pick up reliable way how to properly plaster the ceiling, bring your skills to a professional level and get to work.

Structural decorative plaster differs from textured composition of fillers. For internal works choose ready-made mixtures on a water-dispersion basis. The structure includes marble chips different fractions and binders polymer fillers with the addition of acrylic resins.

There is a difference: plastering and filling. The putty, according to professionals, is intended for finishing... So, for example, the picture shows the materials of the manufacturer BORO.

How to plaster the ceiling in the bathroom?

There is no significant difference. It all depends on the preferences of the Customer. Decorative putty is usually moisture resistant. In addition, it can be protected with moisture resistant paint. The paint is tinted using computer programs in construction hypermarkets. Not to be mistaken: "how to plaster the ceiling in the room?" carefully read the composition of the mixture, which should consist of natural ingredients and meet fire safety requirements.

Plastering is the most important stage of finishing the facades and premises of buildings. This operation allows you to align the walls before finishing them. In addition, protect them from most negative influences. In this article we will talk about how to correctly plaster the ceiling.

Plastering allows you to level the walls before finishing them

Methods and quality of leveling surfaces

There are two technologies for leveling surfaces using plaster.

1. On a plane, using a rule, without. In this case, the ceiling becomes even visually only. This method is used when there is no need to align it perfectly on all planes.
2. Plastering on control beacons. It is used if the base has significant irregularities and deviations, and it is necessary to create a completely flat roughing.

Ready-made beacons for plaster are perforated. Based on the rule about them, you can remove excess mortar mixture. Their usual length is 2.5 or 3 m, height is 1 or 0.6 cm.

note! Beacons allow you to correct significant irregularities in surfaces, as they are set exactly on the level. With their help, you can lay plaster with deviations of only 0.1 cm per 1 square meter.

Plastering walls and ceilings using beacons

Which mixture to choose

A little about which plaster is better to use.

1. Cement-based materials are the traditional type of roughing. They have a high level of strength, moisture and frost resistance. Such solutions are universal and can be used in all rooms, as well as outside buildings. Disadvantages - low plasticity.
2. Lime mortars have also been used for a very long time. Their advantages are good plasticity, low price, the ability to apply the mixture in a thick layer. Disadvantages - high hygroscopicity and, therefore, a low level of moisture resistance. Based on this, it is better to plaster dry rooms with a similar solution.
3. Recently, gypsum-based mixtures have become very popular. They can be applied in a layer up to 5 cm, without cracking, since the material is very plastic and does not shrink.

Note! High adhesion and low specific gravity allow them to align ceilings and smooth surfaces without reinforcement. In addition, gypsum has better thermal insulation and allows the walls to breathe.

However, it has a low level of moisture resistance. Therefore, the instruction advises to plaster with gypsum solutions only dry rooms.

Kneading gypsum plaster

Wooden ceiling

If you are dealing with a wooden ceiling, then for leveling, first fill it with a metal mesh or shit.

Forgiving shit is nailed

First of all, forgiving shit is nailed. Place it at a 45 degree angle to the wall. The thickness of the coating should not exceed 3 mm. Step back between the pancakes no more than 2 cm.

Correctly plaster the ceiling in three layers. Be especially careful when applying the latter. Its thickness should not exceed 25 mm. Before applying a layer of plaster, let the previous layer dry a little, but not completely.

Plastering process

First, prepare everything necessary materials and tool. You will need:

1. Selected dry mix.
2. There are enough lighthouses.
3. Drill with drills and grouting attachment.
4. Plastic dowels.
5. Self-tapping screws for wood.
6. Phillips screwdriver.
7. Long bubble level, tape measure and plumb line.
8. Shears for metal for cutting the guides.
9. Hammer.
10. Aluminum rules for 2 (for plaster) and 5 m (for marking for beacons).
11. Medium spatula (15 cm).
12. Metal trowel and wooden grater.
13. Solution container.
14. Primer. Before plastering highly absorbent surfaces, acquire a deep penetration compound.
15. Roller or large brush for.

Substrate preparation, priming and marking

This stage is very important, so do everything with your own hands especially carefully and carefully.

Priming is necessary to improve the adhesion of the coating and the base, eliminate dust and reduce the hygroscopicity of the ceiling.

For smooth surfaces, use the "Concrete-contact" primer. For porous and highly absorbent (brick, foam and aerated concrete blocks) is the composition of deep penetration. Before plastering the painted ceiling or wood, purchase a special primer for such substrates.

When the ceiling has been primed, carefully examine it for horizontal deviations using a level. Next, using the rule, find all the depressions and bumps. Mark them with a pencil.

Most experts are convinced that perfectly flat ceilings simply do not exist. They also believe that it is not at all necessary to achieve a level surface. Most often, when plastering the ceiling, they try to align it with one of the plates, which is lower than the others. In this case, there is no need to put up beacons, since the plate will act in this role. Just keep in mind that this way you can only align the ceiling, and not make it horizontal.

To, measure the distance from floor to ceiling in all corners of the room. Where it turns out to be the smallest, there will be a slope of the ceiling. Transfer this mark to all other walls using a level. Now with the help of rope and chalk mark a horizontal line on all the walls. She will indicate the lower border of the future ceiling.

Screw in self-tapping screws or dowels along this line. Pull a string or line between them. It will become a level for all beacons.

Installation of beacons

1. Cut the guides.
2. Stir in some creamy gypsum solution.
3. Apply the mixture in piles along the lines so that it protrudes behind the screw heads. Press the profiles into the mortar as a rule, not deeper than the level of the caps.
4. Check the evenness of the installation with the guides using the rule with the level installed on it. Adjust the position of the beacons as needed. Then you can unscrew the screws.
5. Install all the beacons this way.

After that, you can start finishing the ceiling. As an example, we will tell you how to plaster the ceiling with gypsum plaster.

Primer application

We fill the bucket mortar

1. Pour one third of water into a container (bucket, basin) and add the dry mixture. Mix the solution with a drill with a whisk attachment.
2. Note! You can immediately cover the walls with soil. The thicker its layer, the thicker the solution needs to be kneaded. The optimum consistency of the mixture is pasty.
3. If the surface absorbs water strongly, moisten it before use. Otherwise, the solution will give off moisture too quickly and, setting, will crack.
4. Experts apply the primer by sprinkling it with a plastering trowel. If you are not experienced in this, you can spread the solution on the wall with a trowel.
5. Make a layer of solution dense, without gaps. It should protrude slightly beyond the guides.
6. Next, press the sharp side of the rule against the neighboring beacons and begin to pull the solution together. Start alignment from the walls.
7. Move the instrument from side to side in a wave-like manner, at a slow pace. Remove the cut off excess mortar from the tool with a spatula and apply to surfaces still free from plaster.
8. If there are unplastered areas somewhere, throw in the solution and tighten it again.
9. Next, walk the tool over the plaster again, moving it not in a wave-like fashion, but straight. The pressure should be light. This will smooth out the finish completely.
10. Then stir the solution more and start plastering the next cell.
11. When the strips between the beacons are processed, you will have unfilled areas near the walls. They must be plastered after the mixture has hardened on the ceiling.
12. Fill the voids that remain at the edges with a solution. Level these areas using the surface of the base plaster as a guide. At the same time, keep the rule in a horizontal position or tilted.
13. Next, check the plane of the new coating. To this end, apply a rule to it in all directions and throughout the ceiling.
14. If you find performances larger than 1 cm, then cut them off with the sharp edge of a rule or steel trowel. This is easy to do with fresh plaster.
15. Then you need to dismantle the guides. Pick them up sharp object and carefully remove from the cover.
16. Cover the remaining voids with plaster and level.

We rub the plaster in a circular motion

Now about how to plaster the ceiling when covering and grouting.

1. To make it easier for you, do this immediately after the initial setting of the solution, while it is wet. Since the cover is a thin layer, stir the solution in small portions. It should have the consistency of sour cream.
2. Apply the mixture to a trowel and spread it evenly over the area in half square meter thin layer. Then smooth out the plaster at a 45 degree angle by pressing firmly on the tool.
3. After that, continue rubbing the area with a wooden float. Do this in a circular motion. As a result of your efforts, the surface of the coating should become completely smooth and even.
4. Repeat the described operations over the entire surface.

Note! Smooth each new area with an overlap of the previous square. The best option- carry out grouting without interruption. You should only be distracted by cooking plaster mix.

In this article, we examined how and with what to plaster the walls in the best way. Of course, not everything can work out right away. After all, skills come only with experience. But, without trying to plaster, you will never learn it. If you have experience with plastering a ceiling, share your comments with readers under this article.

The repair process includes work on leveling the ceiling for painting. Plastering is a laborious process, but possible.

Plastering is a laborious process, but possible

Why plaster the ceiling?

1. This is the most environmentally friendly option for leveling the ceiling surface.
2. Plastering the ceiling with your own hands is the most economical way to prepare the surface, if everything is done according to technology. Please note: Failure to follow the work steps can lead to unnecessary waste and loss of time. In the absence of skills and strong differences in ceiling height, it is easier to use drywall or professional plastering services.
3. The thickness of the mixture layer will not "steal" the height of the ceiling. The maximum layer is 5 cm. Exceeding this indicator can be hazardous to health - a thick layer may not hold and become a threat to life. In case of serious differences in height, it is recommended to install a suspended plasterboard ceiling.

Before starting surface preparation, it is necessary to assess the scale and level of need for plastering.

For surface decoration, decorative plaster for the ceiling can be applied - modern material with excellent aesthetic and technological performance.
Repair of plaster is possible! To do this, it is necessary to find weak points in the finish, points where the material has peeled off, remove these layers, prime and putty.

How to plaster the ceiling and what materials are required for this?

1. Spatulas: choose three different kinds metal spatulas with a comfortable, rubberized handle.
2. A special stirrer required for the preparation of a high-quality solution.
3. Roller and brush for priming the surface.
4. Mixing container: select a bucket with straight sides for easy mixing. The volume is more than 10 liters.
5. Sandpaper for sanding the surface to prepare the ceiling for painting.

Ceiling decorated with decorative plaster

How to properly plaster the ceiling in the room?

Before starting surface preparation, it is necessary to assess the extent and level of need for plastering. It is necessary to inspect the condition of the ceiling. If the surface differences are minimal (up to 5 mm), you should not waste time on a difficult and time-consuming procedure. To prepare the base, it is enough to use a putty and a spatula. If the drops are more than 3 cm, and you do not have the skills, it is better to refuse to carry out the procedure with your own hands. How to plaster the ceiling if the drops are more than 3 cm? Contact specialists who will ensure quality work or use drywall to create suspended structures.
Preparatory work requires a complete cleaning of the surface from the old finish. To remove old plaster from the surface, wet the ceiling. The procedure must be repeated several times so that the material is easier to remove and there is less dust.
Using a putty knife, remove all old finish to the slab - if the material has not peeled off from moisture, use a hammer drill.

Pay attention to the seams! From them, you also need to carefully remove the plaster, which does not adhere well.

Ceiling plastering

Lime and cement will remain on the surface of the floor slabs - rinse it off with a sponge.
Is there a fungus on the surface? Use a special antiseptic solution to treat the ceiling. Indoors with high level humidity should not only be treated with the affected areas.
To treat the surface from the fungus, you can use not only special antiseptics, but also chlorine-containing agents.

Remember: they will only remove the fungus, but they will not be able to prevent it from reappearing!

After cleaning the surface from the old finish, it must be treated with a primer - this is the basis for the plaster, which will ensure the strength of adhesion to concrete.
What if the ceiling is wooden? In "stalinkas", in old wooden country houses residents are faced with the problem of repairing shingles - this is a "native" partition made of boards under the clay. Replacing the plaster is recommended only if the state of the finish does not allow it to be restored, make redecorating or install suspended plasterboard structures or stretch ceilings.

Do not plaster the shingles and remove the old finish yourself! This can only be done by an experienced specialist.

Ceiling plastering

In case of serious damage to the finish and the impossibility of fixing the drywall, it is worth contacting a professional restorer.
Is it possible to plaster the surface of drywall? If you need to apply plaster to drywall, you should make sure that the material is moisture resistant. Only special mixtures for drywall are used, they are applied in several thin layers.
Ceiling plaster can be done with a gypsum-based mixture or with a cement-lime mixture.

The first option has advantages over the second:

1. When it comes to concrete, then it is the gypsum mixture that is best suited, due to its high adhesion.
2. It is easier for a layman to use a gypsum mixture than a cement-lime mixture.
3. With normal shrinkage of the house, gypsum plaster does not crack and is suitable for painting.

Ceiling plaster on lighthouses: features of work

This technique is considered the most simple and accessible even to a non-professional. It allows you to create a flat ceiling.

How to align the ceiling with plaster on the lighthouses?

1. First, you need to find the lowest point of reference on the rough ceiling. For this, a water or laser level is used.
2. A special metal perforated profile-beacon is mounted below 1 cm. Use a short rule, if you do not have experience in such work - it is more convenient, long rule- less convenient, but allows you to make the surface smoother. The distance between the profiles should be less than the length of the rule by 20 cm.
3. Moving the rule in a zigzag manner, the plaster is applied using a medium trowel. The layers should be thin. Maximum - 2 cm. If the height differences are greater, it is worth letting the first layer dry completely, then apply the second.

Important! If it is necessary to apply a second layer, it is necessary to fix the first one with a reinforced mesh - it is pressed into the fresh first layer. Once dry, you can continue to apply the mixture.

Installation of beacons on the ceiling

A wide spatula is required for finishing the surface to be painted. With its help, dried plaster is treated with a leveling putty. Layers should be minimal, applied gradually.
After the putty has dried, sanding is carried out using a special machine. You will need a bandage to protect your breathing from dust. Grinding finishing is most practical when large area ceiling, in small room final leveling can be carried out using a hand-held sander. Smooth surface is ready for painting, decorative ceiling plaster can be applied.
Remember! Before painting the surface, check that the plaster has been applied securely. A good primer is recommended to ensure optimal paint application.

Priming walls before painting

Modern decorative plaster on the ceiling: pros and cons?

1. Venetian plaster on the surface of drywall is used for wall decoration, less often for the ceiling. Suitable for living quarters - living room, study, bedroom, nursery. Do not use in the bathroom, in the kitchen, because when an abundance of moisture gets in or flooding, the coating peels off and it has to be completely changed, it is almost impossible to choose a shade of color.

Decorative plaster of the ceiling

1. Polymeric textured decorative plaster on the ceiling looks beautiful in residential premises. Since the surface is voluminous, such a solution would be impractical for the kitchen - it is difficult to remove dirt from the unevenness of the surface.

The use of professional, high-quality materials will help to make the process easier and the surface more reliable.

How is plastering the ceiling with your own hands carried out? How and how to plaster the ceiling? Is it worth even leveling the ceiling with plaster or is it better to prefer suspended or suspended ceiling structures?

Let's try to figure it out.

Pros and cons

Let's start with the main thing. Is it worth plastering the ceiling at all?

Advantages

• In terms of material costs, this is the least costly method to fix the ceiling... Expenses for building mixtures much lower than the cost of a cassette or stretch ceiling.
• , usually, flawless in terms of environmental friendliness... Neither cement nor gypsum mix do not allocate in environment nothing harmful to health.
• Plaster to the ceiling is also beneficial because will not reduce the height of the room... The maximum thickness of its layer is 5 centimeters.

Please note: in fairness, both stretch and suspended ceilings can also reduce the height of the room very slightly. It all depends on the materials you choose.

Minimum distance between stretch ceiling and overlap - only 4 centimeters. Profile width.

disadvantages

• If plastering the ceiling with your own hands is enough budget way fix the ceiling, then other people's services in this area will cost quite a significant amount... For example, homemade suspended ceiling from PVC panels will cost much cheaper.
• Level differences that can be hidden by plastering ceilings and walls are limited to five centimeters. The limitation is not only due to the prohibitive flow building materials... Falling thick plaster from the ceiling is a very real threat to life and health.
• Finally, certain skills are still desirable for plastering. If most of suspended structures can be assembled by a beginner with an acceptable result, then, taking the plaster for the first time large room, you will hardly make the ceiling surface perfectly flat. And for painting, it is the ideal surface that is desirable.

How to plaster

So, we will plaster the ceiling again. Where to begin?

Inspection of the battlefield

First you need to decide: do we really need to plaster?

• If the size of the irregularities does not exceed five millimeters, it makes no sense to start a laborious operation. It is enough to putty the ceiling using a wide spatula and a rule.
• It has already been said about the maximum layer of plaster: if the height differences exceed five centimeters, plaster becomes an absolutely inappropriate idea. If you are a beginner, it is better to limit yourself to a layer of no more than three centimeters altogether.

Surface preparation

Let's take the worst scenario for us: old plaster is partially destroyed and affected by fungus; the ceiling has deep cracks at the seams and height differences.

How to prepare the surface in this case?

• Moisten ceiling over the entire area with water. At least twice with an interval of a couple of hours. Water will make it much easier to remove old plaster, and there will be immeasurably less dust.
• Armed with a hard spatula clean up ceiling surface to floor slabs. In problem areas, a punch can also come in handy. Remove any loose plaster in the joints between the boards.
• Residues of lime and cement dust wash off a simple damp sponge.
• Then comes the turn of the antiseptic primer (fungus, remember?). Process mildewed areas with an overlap of at least 20 centimeters. If the room is damp, it is better to process the entire ceiling.

Please note: to kill the mold, you can use any liquid containing chlorine (domestic Whiteness or its analogues). However, the antiseptic soil will not only destroy the fungus, but also prevent its reappearance. Better not to skimp on trifles.

• Finally, the last thing to do is to prime the ceiling with any primer. The penetrating primer will strengthen the outer concrete layer and improve its adhesion to the plaster.

Choice of plaster

Plastering of walls and ceilings can be carried out using cement-lime mixtures or more modern gypsum. Professionals strongly recommend staying on the second option.

Causes?

• Gypsum plaster transfers within reasonable limits the shrinkage of the house. Cement-limestone, under the same conditions, cracks.
• The adhesion (adhesion) of gypsum plaster to the concrete surface is much better. As a result, the putty can not only be thrown, like cement-lime, but also spread. For a beginner, this method will seem immeasurably easier.

Knauf Rotband gypsum plaster is an excellent solution at a very reasonable price. No wonder it is so popular among builders.

Lighthouses

The simplest way even out significant differences - plaster on lighthouses.

How it's done?

• Using a laser or water level, the lowest point of the draft ceiling is located.
• Then, 10 millimeters below this point, the plaster level is bounced off and beacon profiles are attached. The easiest way to fix them evenly is to pull threads on the studs driven into the horizon line, then stick a few blotches of finished plaster on the ceiling in a line and, guided by the threads, press the profile into the putty. Then you can move on to the next one.
• The step between the profiles is 20 centimeters less than the length of your rule. Short rule work more conveniently; however, a longer one will allow the beacons to be placed further and will give a smoother surface.

• The plaster is spread on the ceiling with a medium-width spatula so that it protrudes beyond the beacons, and the excess is removed as a rule. In this case, the rule moves in a zigzag, and not in a straight line.
• The correct technology for plastering the ceiling is to apply a layer no thicker than 2 centimeters at a time. If there are more irregularities, let the first layer dry and only then apply the second.

Important: when applying plaster in two layers after applying the first one between two beacons, the ceiling is reinforced with a synthetic mesh. The strips are pressed into the fresh plaster with an overlap of about ten centimeters. Further finishing of the ceiling with plaster is also performed after the first layer has dried.

Fine finishing

Finally, the surface of the ceiling is leveled with the help (in the case of using gypsum plaster, you can immediately apply the final putty).

Tool - wide spatula... It is easiest for a beginner to adhere to a simple algorithm: with the interval necessary for drying, the putty is applied in two as thin layers as possible, then the ceiling is sanded.

For sanding the ceiling, you can use hand grater with sanding mesh. However, with a large ceiling area, the work will be extremely tedious. The sander will save you a lot of time. A respirator or gauze bandage and glasses are required at this stage.

Useful little things

At the end of the day - a small selection of scattered useful information.

Perhaps it is this part of the article that will give you a fresh idea for decorating your home.

• Venetian plaster on the ceiling it is used relatively rarely: this is the material that can often be seen on the walls. Initially, its components were marble chips and beeswax... Now acrylic resin is used as a binder, as a rule.

The solution is beautiful; however, you should not use this type of plaster, imitating the texture of polished stone, in bathrooms and toilets. Flooding from above will cause the coating to flake off; it is simply unrealistic to choose exactly the same color scheme for repair. We'll have to re-plaster the ceiling.

• Textured plaster on the ceiling - the solution is rather ambiguous and definitely not intended for the kitchen. The reason is dust. It will not be easy to remove it from the irregularities. The best such plaster for the ceiling is on polymer base... It is less afraid of moisture and more resistant to abrasion when washing compared to silicate (based on liquid glass) and mineral (based on cement and lime).

By the way, choosing different tools and different methods final processing (with a roller, trowel or float), you can get completely different surface structures with one plaster.

• Ceiling plaster repair usually involves removing crumbling layers and filling cracks. Old plaster is tapped to reveal loose layers and cavities underneath. All weak points are cleaned to concrete. Cracks are widened with a knife or trowel. Then the defect is primed and puttyed.

• After finishing the putty, before painting the ceiling, do not be too lazy to prime it again. The operation will not only make the surface more durable and improve the adhesion to the paint. It will also reduce paint consumption when applying the first coat.

Do not hesitate about the economic side of the issue: with comparable quality, a primer is always much cheaper than a water-based paint.

V this case our goal is a step-by-step training on the topic of how to properly plaster the ceiling on concrete floors, which means on a knowingly uneven base that needs to be leveled. In this case, we will not consider suspended and multi-level gypsum plasterboard suspended structures, in which this process is much easier.

But, having learned the basic techniques, you will understand the principles of action and be able to deal with such a finish on structures of any complexity. So do not leave this page, besides, you can additionally watch the video here in this article.

Ceiling plaster

Preparatory work

Note. It is not without reason that I chose as an example concrete slabs rather than suspended plasterboard structures. If you figure out how uneven slabs are putty, then the gypsum board coating will be a kind of rest for you.

Requirements for the rough base:

• none of the plaster compounds can be applied to old finishes like wallpaper, paint, lime or old putty that you want to get rid of;
• therefore, you will have to remove the unnecessary coating and for this most often all kinds of scrapers are used. But practice shows that the best of them is a steel spatula about 5-10 cm wide, the blade of which is cut to 3-4 cm;
• but in many houses the joint between the ceiling and the wall is made rounded, and there is no way to cope with a spatula. You need a hammer drill with a chisel, but, as a last resort, of course, you can use a crowbar or even an ax;

• in addition, you will have to face the joints of the floors, which, firstly, will need to be cleaned, going deep into the seam and, secondly, the plates may not be on the same level (one higher than the other, as in the top photo);
• you need to get rid of such things immediately after cleaning the ceiling - for this you clean the gap with a brush, prime it, and after drying, push the putty there. Glue a serpyanka (perforated plastering tape) on top of the mixture and wait until it is all dry.

For reference. Serpyanka is usually used for joints plasterboard structures- one side of it is sticky and adheres perfectly to plasterboard paper.

• when all the joints are sealed and dry, you can prime the ceiling and wait a few hours for the composition to dry, after which you can start installing the beacons.

Lighthouses

First, I suggest that you figure out the principle of installing beacons, since you can only properly plaster the ceiling with them. Otherwise, you will not be able to zero the floor plane.

The distance between the profiles is selected in accordance with the length building regulation which you will use on this moment... And this is done according to the principle of decreasing the step by at least 10-15 cm.

That is, if you use a tool with a length of 150 cm to tighten the mortar, then the maximum step can be no more than 140 cm.If the rule is one meter, then the step, respectively, is no more than 90 cm, but it is better to make it even less if, of course , technical conditions allow.

To put all the beacons in one plane, first of all, you will need to install the extreme profiles, stepping back from the wall as much as the installation step allows. That is, the rule should reach the wall with its end and at the same time rely on two beacons at the same time.

Therefore, if you use, for example, a one and a half meter rule, and the step is 140 cm, then you can retreat no more than 5-7 cm.Therefore, it is easier for you to shorten the step for the first span so that you can retreat at least 25-30 cm from the wall ...

When you install two beacons along the edges of the ceiling, screw three screws with dowels (between the beacon and the wall) into the plate at the ends and in the middle of the profiles. Then pull the nylon threads between them diagonally and along the plane, as shown in the diagram, so that the thread does not touch the ridge of the lighthouse with a distance of about 1-1.5 mm. Thanks to these guidelines, you will be able to establish intermediate profiles.

Lighthouses are sold in shops, their lengths are 3000 mm and 4000 mm, and their section along the ridge is from 6 mm to 20 mm. Remember, the larger the cross-section, the harder the profile, but at the same time the applied layer of the mortar increases.

Personally, I prefer to use 6 mm thick beacons in such cases - first I put them on the putty bumps, as shown in the top photo, and level the plane. A few hours later, when the putty begins to set, I just put the solution in the voids, and after drying, I get the beacon tough - the rule is not to knock it down.

Preparation of the mixture

Note. I will not focus on how to plaster the ceiling, that is, on this or that type of plaster mixture, but I will say this - there are powdery and pasty mixtures. If you don't have great experience in such works, then you better choose the second option - starting and finishing putty and learn how to prepare a solution.

It does not matter whether it is a starting or finishing mixture, and what kind of manufacturer it is - as a rule, the instructions for preparation are always the same. We will assume that you have purchased a special rubberized bucket (it does not break), you have a drill (low-speed or ordinary), as well as a mixer for putty (not for paint).

To achieve the desired consistency, you will need ½ a bucket of water and 1/3 of the powder, which will need to be interrupted at the lowest speed that your drill is capable of (the speed control is at the reverse, near the start button).

First, interrupt the contents for 3-5 minutes (depending on the rotational speed of the drill), trying to get the mixer to the corners of the bucket between the bottom and the wall. And then let the solution settle for 2-3 minutes - this will allow water to penetrate all areas.

Then interrupt it again for 1-2 minutes and you can use it immediately. Only its amount should not exceed that which you will have time to work out in 20 - 30 minutes, until it begins to set.

If you stir after the start of its setting, then its molecular structure will change, and this will lead to:

• firstly, to a very long solidification;
• secondly, the frozen layer will crumble like frozen lime.

Recommendation. For the ceiling, the consistency of the mixture should resemble a thick homemade sour cream... But if the bucket is too full, the solution will spray out while stirring. If it really happened, and you have to interrupt the overfilled container, then reverse the drill in the opposite direction and the vortex will twist to the center, and not to the sides. Thus, there will be less splashing.

First layer

The first layer is applied along the spans. That is, first one gap between the beacons, as long as the bucket of mixture will last, then another, next to it. This will move you from one side of the room to the other.

Putty, made by hand, from a bucket, put on the ceiling with a spatula (blade 10-15 cm). Try to make your layer a few millimeters higher than the ridge of the lighthouses, and you can work out the whole bucket at once (if there is an auxiliary, let the next one cook at this time). Then align the layer with the rule, resting the tool against the beacons and pulling off the excess mixture.

With the same spatula, remove the cut solution from the rule and apply it back to the ceiling, trying to close all the voids that have formed, go through the rule again. There can be from five to ten such passages.

But the more experience you get, the faster their number will decrease. In this case, you are not required to bring the surface to a mirror-like state, because after the starting putty you will apply the finishing layer (the same putty, only with a finer fraction).

Second layer

Now your goal is to bring the surface to a mirror-like state so that it is suitable for painting. But first you have to wait until the first lighthouse layer dries up and prime it.

After that, prepare the finishing mixture as described above and, using two spatulas, apply it to the ceiling with a layer of 1.5-2 mm thick. Here, a solution is applied to a wider blade with a narrower spatula, then the mass is spread on the ceiling, the remnants are removed from the spatula, and the whole process is repeated again.

Since you do not have enough experience, then from the spatula you will have scars on the ceiling, and you need to try to keep them as small as possible. Although it is unlikely that it will be possible to reach full zero without long-term practice.

Do not be upset, this is fixable, especially since you can cut off the remaining scars after the start of setting with a spatula. But you can achieve a mirror surface only after grinding.

You may have heard that sanding is optional. Yes, this is so, but only in two cases - the first, if the surface is needed for dense wallpaper and the second, if an experienced craftsman is engaged in this.

You can use disk or tape grinder if you have one. In most cases, use a trowel with diamond mesh clamps or sandpaper №№160-200.

To perform these manipulations, it is imperative to wait until the plaster is completely dry. This can be determined by the presence of dark spots on the surface - a dark shade indicates the concentration of moisture.

The second coat dries faster, especially if it is applied to a completely dry starter coat. The drying process can take from 5 to 7 days.

Attention! When doing this, be sure to use protective equipment- glasses, respirator and gloves. It is not simple production rules T / B, but a vital necessity, confirmed by practical experience! Dust from any composition, be it gypsum, cement or acrylic base, is capable of corroding the skin, and Airways and the cornea!

Conclusion

I think you understood from this material how to plaster the ceiling with your own hands and the information given above is enough for you to finish it yourself. But if there is a misunderstanding somewhere, then you can ask a question by leaving your comment.