Growing watermelons in open ground. Watermelons: growing outdoors with seeds or seedlings All about growing watermelons

Growing watermelons in open ground with seeds and seedlings

You can grow watermelons using seeds and seedlings. Of course, in order for good and tasty fruits to grow in the end, the planting technology should be carried out correctly.

In addition, the subsequent care of the plant largely affects the quality of ripened fruits. Therefore, it is best to familiarize yourself in advance with all the secrets of growing watermelons using seeds and seedlings.

Place to land

For growing watermelon choose sandy or sandy soil. Its acidity should be 6-7 units.

Since watermelons are a thermophilic plant, a place for planting should be chosen warm, sunny, so that it constantly warms up. Planted in warm soil up to +12 +15 degrees.

Watermelons will grow well after the following crops:

• potato;
• cabbage;
• carrot;
• legume crops.

In no case should you plant a plant in places where solanaceous or gourds have grown before, since these plants have common pests.

It's important to know: it is recommended to prepare a site for watermelons in the fall, it needs to be dug and loosened. Then on the dug up ground the berry will grow well and give excellent harvest.

Digging the earth should be done in conjunction with rotted manure or humus. For 1 square meter the following amount of fertilizer is applied - 5-6 kg of humus or rotted manure, superphosphate 50 grams, potassium salt 35 grams and ammonium sulfate 40 grams.

Sand is poured into the weighted soil - 2 buckets per 1 m2. It is not advisable to use fresh manure for fertilizer. When digging, all weeds and roots are removed, because watermelon does not like these unpleasant "neighbors".

If further planting will be carried out under the film, then you should also purchase necessary material and cover the ground with them.

Planting a watermelon

There are two ways to plant watermelons:

1. In a seedless way.

For planting watermelons in open ground, you should choose cold-resistant seeds with a ripening period of 90 days. Varieties are perfect - "Spark", "Gift to the North", "Chill".

Seeds should be soaked in water before planting. The water temperature must be at least 50 degrees. It is necessary to soak until the seeds sprout.

Then they are planted in the soil. The soil should be warmed up to +12 +15 degrees. They are usually planted in early May, by the time the seeds germinate it will become warmer, and the soil will warm up with the sun.

After 8-10 days, the first shoots should appear. If the earth is cold, then germination will be delayed for a long period and eventually the seeds may die.

It is worth noting: before landing, be sure to pay attention to the weather conditions. If it is cool in early May, then planting should be postponed to the end of the month.

In order to grow good harvest, the following disembarkation technology should be observed:

• each well is filled with a mixture of ash, earth, humus and nitroammophos (1 teaspoon). Pour 1 tablespoon of the mixture into the well. This will help increase productivity in the future;
• then we lay the seeds in the soil to a depth of 6-9 cm;
• sprinkle with humus so that a crust does not form on top. This crust can harm the sprouts when they come to the surface, and they will die.

Below, we suggest you watch a video on how to transplant watermelon seedlings into open ground:

2. Growing seedlings.

Seeds are planted for seedlings in late April - early May. It is desirable that the room maintains a temperature regime of +25 +30 degrees.

Seed germination begins at temperature regime from + 17 degrees, but in order for them to grow and develop fruitfully, it is recommended to maintain at least 25 degrees in the daytime, and at +18 degrees at night. Seedling picking is not necessary.

The soil in which the seedlings grow should be fertilized. This will ensure rapid growth of sprouts. For all the time the soil needs to be fertilized twice, mineral fertilizers are used as top dressing.

Important to remember: when planting, seedlings cannot be completely covered with soil. On the surface, sprouts of 3-4 cm should be left.

The sprouts should not come into contact with each other, otherwise they can be severely damaged when planting. Therefore, you should watch the sprouts, and as they grow, the cups should be moved away. Shoots ready for planting must have at least 3 leaves.

Seedlings are planted in the soil in late May or early June. Be sure to follow the landing technology. Sprouted seedlings are planted in prepared beds to a depth of 9-11 cm.

One or two shoots are planted in the hole. If 2 processes are planted in the hole, then they are bred on opposite sides so that their lashes do not intertwine.

Before planting, up to two kilograms of compost or humus are poured into the hole and poured with water. It should be planted in a gruel of soil and fertilizers, sprinkling with dry soil.

Care

In addition to landing, you must follow the rules of care. The future harvest depends on proper care.

Care consists of the following:

1. Shelter. In order to accelerate the growth of the plant, covering materials can be used. Remains under the film fever and due to this, the plant begins to grow faster.

In addition, the fruits will appear 2-3 weeks earlier. Also covering material will provide protection against various pests. To cover with a film, you can make not high racks on the sides and put covering material on them. It should be removed in early June and preferably on a cloudy day, otherwise the plants may burn out under the scorching sun.

2. Irrigation procedures. Since the watermelon has a very powerful root system, which can go to a depth of more than 1 meter, it should not be watered very often. Once a week is enough. He gets the missing moisture from the ground himself.

3. Soil fertilization. The first top dressing is done 7 days after planting seedlings or seeds. The next two are done at intervals of 2-3 weeks. For the first top dressing, the following can be used as fertilizers - a solution of ammonium nitrate, 20 grams per 10 liters of water. For subsequent dressings, it is best to use mineral fertilizers.

4. Work on the formation of bushes. The fruits are formed on the main stem. In order for them to ripen quickly, it is best to leave no more than 6 ovaries on the stem of the plant, it is recommended to remove the rest.

Also, do not forget about loosening the soil. Beds with watermelons should be periodically loosened. It is advisable to do this after rain or watering.

Overgrown lashes can be tied to special racks or lightly sprinkled with earth. This will protect them from the wind and speed up the growth of the fruit.

Harvesting

Fruit picking begins around August. Before cutting a watermelon, check it for maturity. Usually a ripe fruit has a glossy skin and a dry tail.

There are no hairs on the stalks. Usually, when you knock on the fetus, a dull sound is heard. All these signs are conditional, so it is recommended to use them in combination.

Growing watermelons is a rather laborious process, so it should be approached responsibly. Be sure to prepare the landing site well, pre-dig the soil and fertilize with top dressing.

Do not forget about further care behind the plant. It is from all right technology cultivation depends on the future harvest.

We offer you to watch a video on how to properly plant watermelon seeds for seedlings:

In recent years, a huge number of hybrids and varieties of watermelon have appeared that are suitable for cultivation in open ground conditions, not only in the southern regions, but also in cold climates. To grow melons and gourds in your country house, you need to put a lot of effort and skill. The secrets of preparing seeds, planting and caring for seedlings will help to fulfill the dream, which will result in a large and sweet watermelon.

Site preparation

Location selection - milestone planting a watermelon, which largely determines its further growth and yield:

• watermelon loves places with a lot of light, in shading conditions it does not develop well and will not be able to give high yields. For planting, sunny areas are allocated that must be protected from the wind;
• due to the highly developed root system, watermelons are highly drought-resistant; planting in places with close groundwater is unacceptable for it;
• for the cultivation of gourds, light sandy or sandy soils with neutral acidity are most suitable. In areas with acidic soil, watermelon produces small fruits that crack while still green.

These plants are undemanding to soil fertility, they grow well both on black soil and on poor sandy and rocky soils. Still, well-cultivated plots are needed to obtain large yields. To do this, in the fall, the place of the future planting is dug up and fertilizers are applied:

• superphosphate, azofoska (according to instructions);
• wood ash (1 l);
• humus (5 l).

The calculation is given for 1 m 2 of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site. Fertilizing before planting eliminates the need for regular top dressing during the growing season of the plant. For watermelon, you need to choose a well-lit place

Step-by-step instructions for planting a watermelon

In order for the preparation and planting of watermelon seeds to proceed correctly, the following steps should be followed.

Seed selection

This is a crucial period of preparation for sowing watermelon, as it largely determines the success of growing and obtaining fruits. A variety of varieties and hybrids allows you to choose a plant that is most adapted to the cultivation conditions in your area. Between themselves, watermelons can differ in large or small fruits, the speed of their ripening, and have different resistance to diseases.

Pre-sowing preparation of seeds

Preparing seeds for sowing is an important stage in the cultivation of vegetable crops, especially in home cultivation, since under conditions limited space increasing requirements for the selection of plants.

Calibration

Sorting seeds by size allows you to choose the best of them, reject small and damaged ones. The selection is usually carried out manually: the inoculum is scattered over smooth surface and divided into large, medium and small. Large seeds tend to contain a large supply nutrients, which in the future will provide plants with good growth and high yields.
For sowing, choose the largest seeds

Heating and soaking

Warming and soaking increases the rate of biochemical reactions in cells, which improves seed germination, the formation of more female flowers, good growth and development of lashes.

Procedure:

1. The inoculum is poured into a cloth bag and immersed in warm water (50–60°C) for 2–3 hours.
2. Then transferred for half an hour for disinfection in a slightly warmed weak solution of potassium permanganate.
3. The bag is taken out, allowed to drain excess moisture.
4. Seeds are laid out on wet sand, a cotton or paper substrate and left in warm room. They are kept at room temperature for about 2 days until seedlings appear.

If you bought treated seeds, they should not be soaked and should be planted directly in the ground.

Germination of watermelon seeds for planting in open ground or for seedlings

hardening

To increase the resistance of plants to sharp fluctuations in temperature and to obtain an earlier and more abundant harvest, seed hardening is carried out. Most often, seed is affected in two ways:

• exposure to constant low temperatures. Within 1–2 days, swollen and hatched watermelon seeds are kept in a refrigerator at a temperature of 0 ± 1 ° C with occasional stirring. Such hardening can also be carried out by burying the seed in a small box or bag in the snow;
• exposure to variable temperature. The swollen seeds are kept in the refrigerator for about 12 hours at a temperature not lower than 6 ° C, then they should be kept warm at a temperature of 18–20 ° C for the same period of time. The procedure is repeated three times.

Before sowing, the seeds are slightly dried.

Selection of containers and soil

To avoid further transplanting or picking, the seeds are sown in separate pots or containers with a volume of at least 300 ml ( minimum height containers - 12 cm, diameter - 10 cm). Prepare for landing soil mixture, into which sand is added in equal proportions, sod land and peat. To 5 liters of prepared soil add:

• dolomite flour and potassium sulfate (50 g);
• double superphosphate (100 g);
• ammonium nitrate (50 g).

Seedling containers are filled with a mixture so that about 3 cm remains between the surface of the soil and the edge of the pot. As the plants grow, the earth can be poured into the pot.
To avoid further transplanting or picking, the seeds are sown in separate pots.

Sowing watermelon seeds

Depending on climatic conditions, watermelon is sown through seedlings or directly into open ground:

Sowing seeds for seedlings

The best time for planting is mid-late April. Sprouted seeds with a root of 1–1.5 cm are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 4–5 pieces in each container, sprinkled with earth on top, watered and covered with glass or film. The pots are put up for the most bright window preferably south.

It is important that there are no drafts in the room.

Germinated seeds with a root of 1–1.5 cm are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 4–5 pieces in each container.

Planting seeds in open ground

Prepared seeds can be sown directly in open ground only in southern regions with a warm climate. The optimal time for planting is when the air temperature is set within 12–14 ° C, and the soil warms up to a depth of 10 cm. It is better to sow in the last decade of May, at which time the probability of a cold snap is significantly reduced. In cold soil, seed germination time increases, as a result of which seedlings may die or become infected with pathogenic microflora. For planting a watermelon, a hole is prepared with a diameter of about 1 m and a depth of at least 30 cm, they bring into it:

• humus or compost (1 kg);
• ash (1 tablespoon);
• nitroammophosphate (1 tsp);
• sand is additionally added to heavy soil, everything is mixed.

Sprouted seeds of watermelons are sown in the prepared holes. Prior to this, approximately 2 liters of water are poured into the seed planting site. After it is absorbed, 4–5 seeds are laid out to a depth of 3–6 cm, the hole is covered with earth and compacted. The bed after sowing is not watered. To avoid the appearance of a crust, which makes it difficult for sprouts to reach the surface, the soil is mulched with humus.

Young seedlings need a lot of water, so they are watered abundantly as the soil dries out, but not more than 1 time in 7 days. The required depth of soil moisture is at least 25–30 cm. Soon after the emergence of sprouts, the first thinning is carried out, leaving the strongest plants, in the phase of 3–4 true leaves, the procedure is repeated. As a result, 1-2 plants should remain in the hole.

Watermelon grown by direct sowing in the ground is more resistant to stresses, including drought and temperature changes, but the crop will always ripen later than that of a seedling crop.

A hole for sowing watermelon seeds in open ground is prepared with a diameter of about 1 m, the soil in it is mixed with humus and mineral fertilizers to a depth of about 30 cm

seedling care

In order for plants in pots to grow and develop well, they create optimal conditions:

• daytime temperature should be around 25°C, at night it is lowered to 20°C. Under these conditions, sprouts will appear in 7-10 days;
• the required length of daylight is at least 12 hours. The lack of lighting contributes to the elongation of seedlings and can cause their death; on cloudy days, it is recommended to highlight the plants with a phytolamp;
• after the seedlings have risen, the weak ones are removed, leaving one sprout;
• watering seedlings is carried out in several steps, avoiding water on the leaves;
• in phase 3 of true leaves, the plant is fed with fermented mullein mixed with water in a ratio of 1:10 (or liquid complex fertilizer).

Subject to these rules, seedlings will grow strong and healthy and will easily take root in a new place.
After culling weak seedlings, one plant should remain in the pot

Transplanting seedlings in open ground

By the time the seedlings are transplanted to the garden, their age is 30–35 days, the plant has at least 4 leaves. 10 days before transplanting to the site, the seedlings are hardened: they are taken out into the open air, increasing the residence time every day. For 3-4 days before planting in the ground, the plants are kept outdoors, and in the evening before transplanting, they are watered abundantly.

After hardening, watermelon seedlings become more resistant to temperature fluctuations.

In mid-June, plants are planted in a permanent place. The transplant is carried out in the morning: the watermelon, together with the earthy clod, is removed from the container, planted in the hole, then watered and covered with a film. The root neck of the seedlings is not deepened.
After planting the seedlings, the earthen ball should be completely covered with soil, the root collar of the watermelon should be left open

Video: transplanting seedlings of watermelons in open ground

Watermelon planting time according to the lunar calendar for 2018

In order for the plant to grow and develop well, it is important not only to prepare the soil, but also to choose the right time for planting. Often vegetable growers resort to the help of the lunar calendar. Auspicious dates for 2018:

• planting on March 10–15 will have the most positive effect on the growth of melons;
• in April, a favorable time for planting seedlings is the period from 9 to 14, as well as 22 and 28;
• in May, watermelons are recommended to be planted from the 3rd to the 9th;
• landing horticultural crops undesirable:
  • April 15–17,
  • May 14–16,
  • June 12–14;
• it is better to refrain from planting and transplanting plants:
  • April 23–24,
  • May 7–8, 12–13, May 20–21,
  • 3-5, 8-9, 16-17, 30 June.

Scheme and planting depth

Exist different schemes planting watermelons in open ground, their choice is influenced by:

• cultivation method (watering or without artificial irrigation). Plants grown without watering occupy a smaller area, so they can be placed more densely;
• watermelon variety (early or late ripening);
• estimated fetal weight (3-5 kg ​​or more than 8 kg). The higher the planting density of watermelons, the smaller the fruits will grow.

When planting watermelons, it is taken into account that the plants grow widely and should not interfere with each other:

• in the garden, early varieties are placed at a distance of 1.4x1.4 m or 1.4x0.7 m;
• mid-ripening watermelons and late-ripening varieties planted according to the scheme 2x2 m; 2.1x1.4 m; 2.1x1 m.

The smaller number shows the distance between plants when planting, the larger one - between rows.
The higher the planting density of watermelons, the smaller the fruits will grow.

The depth of planting seed in open ground can vary from 3 to 8 cm and depends on:

• on their size (the smaller the seed, the smaller the planting depth);
• type of soil (on light soils, the incorporation is deeper than on heavy soils);
• soil moisture (seeds spread on a moistened layer).

Seedlings are planted a little deeper than when growing in a pot, so that the root neck is not damaged by winds.

Neighbors and predecessors

To guarantee a good harvest of gourds, you need not only to follow the rules of planting, but also to know about the compatibility of plants with each other:

• watermelon does not tolerate gusty winds. To create shelter, corn, peas, or beans are planted around the site;
• all members of the pumpkin family, including watermelon, are compatible with black radish plantings. This plant secretes phytoncides that prevent the appearance of spider mites;
• melon is an excellent neighbor of watermelon;
• it is well compatible with potatoes and oat root;
• corn and peas improve the growth and taste of watermelons;
• thistle and gauze contribute to the growth of melons;
• watermelon grows well next to plantings of greens (parsley is an exception);
• phytoncides of tomatoes drive away aphids, sawflies and moths.

All representatives of gourds grow very strongly, so next to them it is better to plant crops that give an early harvest.

Planting some plants next to a watermelon negatively affects its growth and productivity, so the choice of neighbors must be approached responsibly:

• gourds grow well in open, sunny areas, so they are not planted next to trees and shrubs that shade the area;
• watermelon does not like the neighborhood of strawberries and nightshade representatives (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers);
• he extracts from the soil a large number of minerals, so growing watermelon next to beets, carrots, garlic and radishes is not recommended;
• watermelons should not be planted together with related plants - pumpkins or zucchini, as well as cucumbers.

An important agricultural technique is crop rotation. When alternating gourds with a frequency of 3–4 years, the number of pests and diseases, as well as weeds, is significantly reduced on the field. It is not recommended to grow watermelon in the same field for more than 2 years in a row, the optimal predecessors for it are:

• winter wheat,
• perennial herbs,
• corn for green fodder,
• radish,
• dill,
• basil,
• tomatoes,
• celery,
• roots,
• cabbage.

It is strongly not recommended to plant gourds in the area where melons, squash or zucchini previously grew. After harvesting watermelon fruits, it is better to plant this area with legumes (green beans, peas) or garlic.

Methods for planting watermelons on the site

Depending on the climatic conditions of the region and the availability of free space, watermelons are grown in different ways.

in a bucket

In this way, watermelon can be grown at home. To do this, first seedlings are grown in a small pot. Further work is carried out as follows:

1. Prepare a bucket with a volume of 16 liters (you can wooden box size 50x50x30 cm).
2. The container is filled fertile soil with neutral acidity, mixed with perlite in the ratio 2:1. This will protect the soil from standing water.
3. After the third true leaf appears in the seedlings, the plant, together with an earthy clod, is transplanted into a bucket.
4. The optimum daytime temperature is 25–30°C, at night it is 18–20°C. Such conditions are created in spring and summer on a closed balcony.
5. Watering should be moderate, watermelon does not like waterlogging.
6. Fertilize the soil every 2 weeks. Liquid fertilizers for vegetables are suitable for this (add 1 tsp of fertilizer to 1 liter of water). For irrigation prepare only a fresh solution.
7. At the stage of formation of the ovary, a second top dressing is carried out with an increased content of potassium and phosphorus, and after 2-3 weeks - the third.
8. The side shoots of the watermelon are pinched, leaving only the main lash.
9. In the flowering phase of watermelon, artificial pollination is carried out: male flowers with stamens they pluck, remove the petals and pollinate the female flowers (with a thickening at the bottom), touching the pistils with stamens.
10. After fruit set, no more than two berries are left on the plant, the rest are removed.
11. Fruits about 10 cm in size are placed in a net and tied to a support.

After about three months, you can harvest delicious berries weighing about 1 kg.

According to the author, this method can be considered more like a hobby than a way to get a tasty berry. In an apartment, it is unlikely to provide the plant with optimal temperature conditions, except perhaps during the hot summer on the balcony. A home-grown watermelon is unlikely to please with the aroma and sweetness of the pulp. For those who still decide to experiment, I advise you to make a drainage hole at the bottom of the tank to protect the roots from waterlogging. And to determine if a watermelon needs watering, it can be recommended to slightly raise the bucket with the plant, guided by its weight and soil moisture.

On the trellis

In the southern regions, gourds are cultivated in open ground, in which case they do not require a garter. When grown in northern regions with a cool and humid climate, trellises can be used. This is especially true for small areas where there is little light and moisture stagnation is likely. In such places it is recommended to grow watermelons of small-fruited hybrids and varieties:

1. On both sides, the beds are dug along a support at least 1.5 m high, ropes or twine are pulled between them.
2. Other ropes are tied to the stretched ropes, which descend to the plants and serve as a support for the stems of the watermelon, determining the direction of growth.
3. The end of the lowered rope is fixed on the stem of the plant or on the ground.
4. The main stem is tied up in a vertical direction, the top is not pinched. All side shoots are removed, as female flowers are formed mainly on the main stem.
5. The grown fruits are placed in nets, then individually tied to a trellis so that they do not fall under their own weight.

With the formation of 2-3 fruits the size of egg the rest of the ovaries are removed, since large quantity watermelons will not have time to ripen.

The trellis is relevant for small areas where there is little light and moisture stagnation is likely.

Under cover material

The cultivation of watermelons under covering material has become especially popular at the present time. Additional costs for the film are offset by the advantages of this technology, including:

• protection of seedlings from weeds in the early stages of growth in the open field;
• reduction of diurnal temperature fluctuations;
• accumulation and preservation of soil moisture.

The use of covering material allows you to reduce the period of fruit ripening by 7-10 days. This method is especially relevant in conditions of a short or humid summer and can be used in several ways:

Spunbond can be used to cover plants directly along the lashes, protecting them from possible frosts.

Features of planting watermelons in different regions

Watermelon is a heat-loving crop that needs a fairly long growing season. This should be taken into account when cultivating in regions with different climatic conditions.

In the southern regions (south of Ukraine, Krasnodar region, Republics of Transcaucasia) watermelons are traditionally grown in an open way, which is facilitated by a large number of warm and sunny days necessary for the vegetation of the plant and the rapid development of fruits. After preparation for sowing, the seeds are planted directly in open ground.

In the northern regions of Ukraine, the amount of heat is not enough to ripen the fruits, so watermelon seedlings are grown first.

In regions with a moderately cold and severe climate ( Leningrad region, Moscow region, Siberia, Far East) the harvest of watermelons will always be moderate. To obtain it, you must strictly follow some rules:

• for planting choose only early ripening varieties;
• to ensure acceptable temperatures, watermelons are grown in greenhouses, and under conditions middle lane- also in the open ground under the film (spread);
• planting is done through seedlings in pots;
• so that the roots grow in width, watering the plants is carried out not under the root, but along the grooves dug in the middle of the aisle;
• no more than 5-6 fruits are left on one plant, to obtain large berries - 1-2 fruits, a plank is placed under each one so that they do not rot in cool conditions.

For cultivation in northern regions choose only early ripening varieties of watermelons:

• for the Moscow region:
  • Sugar baby (Sugar baby),
  • Crimson Sweet,
  • Skorik,
  • spark,
  • Producer,
  • Astrakhan,
  • top gun
  • Chill;
• for the Leningrad region:
  • Kharkiv,
  • spark,
  • Rose of the Southeast
  • early maturing;
• for the Urals - the same varieties as for the Moscow region, as well as:
  • Pink Champagne F1,
  • Gift to the North F1,
  • Crimstar;
• for Siberia and the Far East:
  • Crimson Wonder,
  • Crimson Sweet,
  • ultra early,
  • spark,
  • Siberian.

The average fruit ripening period for the middle lane is about 70-80 days, the fruits are medium-sized - from 2 kg to 4-6 kg.

Hard work and knowledge of planting and caring for watermelons will surely reward you with tasty and healthy berries. You can grow watermelon even in the northern regions, you just need to choose the right variety and not be too lazy to make a shelter.

Tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, zucchini - these crops have long become familiar in our dachas. Caring for them has been brought to automatism for many, but the desire to grow watermelon in the garden can be confusing, since very few know how to care for watermelons. Meanwhile, there is nothing particularly difficult in this. With a little work and effort, you can get great results.

Watermelon. First meeting

Before delving into the secrets of agricultural technology, let's get acquainted with the culture that we want to settle on our site.

Watermelon is a member of the Pumpkin family. It is a herbaceous annual culture. Blossoms in the first half of summer, fruit ripening occurs from August to September. Formally, the fruit of the plant is a pumpkin. Depending on the variety of watermelons, they can vary significantly in shape and color. Fruits can be spherical, cylindrical, oval and flattened.

External color - white, yellow, pale or dark green. The surface may have a pattern consisting of stripes or spots. The pulp is sweet and juicy, pink, red and even yellow color. One plant can produce from three to six fruits of different weights. The minimum weight of a ripe watermelon is approximately 2 kg, the maximum is more than 25 kg.

Growing technology

To get a decent harvest, you need to know exactly how to care for watermelons. Realizing that this is a heat-loving plant, for it you need to choose the right place and time for planting. best place there will be a bed on which beans, corn, peas or potatoes grew before. You can not plant in places where melons, cucumbers and pumpkins have ripened before. Soil preparation for cultivation should be done in the fall. With deep digging, humus, ammonium nitrate, superphosphates and potassium chloride are introduced.

Seed material does not require complex preparation. It is enough to select the largest seeds, dry them and warm them up a little. Early varieties watermelons are grown from seedlings, which are planted under a film at the end of May. cultivation late varieties it works well from seeds sown at the end of April in warm holes of 3-4 pieces. The landing site should be sunny, with good protection from the wind. When it gets cold, young plants are additionally protected with a film or cardboard boxes.

Watering, feeding, care

Any summer resident understands that productivity greatly depends on how to care for watermelons. And since we want to enjoy a good harvest, we are engaged in regular loosening of the soil, removing weeds, watering and top dressing. The first top dressing is carried out within a week after planting the seedlings in the ground, then at intervals of 2 weeks.

The composition of top dressing includes superphosphates and ammonium nitrate, diluted with water. Proportions: 15 g of the first substance, 10 g of the second and 11 liters of water. Fertilizers should be applied to moist soil, after a while the plant should be washed with clean water. Despite the high drought tolerance, watermelons are very fond of water. Watering watermelons is especially necessary during the formation of the leaves and stem of the plant. During the ripening of the fruit, watering is reduced so that the fruit gains sugar content faster.

watermelon greenhouses

How to care for watermelons in areas where the climate is not suitable for them open cultivation? The answer is simple: use the greenhouse method.

For greenhouse cultivation use seedlings that you can buy or grow yourself. To independently obtain seedlings, you will need pots with a diameter of 10 cm, the temperature in the room is at least 25 ° C. Plants are placed at a great distance so that the leaves do not touch. Saplings are fed with mineral fertilizers twice.

A greenhouse for watermelons must be at least 2 m high. Seedlings are planted at the end of May, when the threat of frost has completely passed. On the tenth day, the first garter is carried out. With the greenhouse method of growing, the plant is formed into one stem. To do this, when tying, the tips of the shoots are pinched, and the shoots without an ovary are removed. In addition, carry out a garter of fruits. Small fruits are placed in large nets and tied to a trellis.

Pinching watermelons in the open field

Correct pinching - main secret obtaining large sweet fruits. So, a novice gardener needs to understand how to pinch watermelons. If only the central stem needs to be formed in the greenhouse, then it is permissible to leave 3-4 full-fledged ovaries in the ground, and pinch other processes. This frees the stem from excess load, and the culture grows faster. It is necessary to pinch the upper kidney at the time of the formation of the sixth leaf on the stem. Before active fruit growth. If the fruits began to grow actively, then pinching is too late.

Harvest

Like any crop, watermelons are harvested as they ripen. It is possible to determine that the fruit has ripened by the shrunken tendrils in the axils of the leaves at the stalks. Another sign of ripeness is the appearance of a shine of the peel, the pattern and color are somewhat lightened, and a dull sound is heard when struck.

At first glance, a heat-loving crop seems undemanding to top dressing and soil composition. It is enough to water abundantly and destroy weeds in time, and other factors that can affect the result determine the climate of the area and the weather. But experience shows that watermelon will not be sweet and juicy if it is not properly cared for. The main thing for a plant - sunlight, watering and caring hands, without this you will not get a good harvest. If you do not neglect the rules for planting and growing watermelons, then at the end of July it will already be possible to enjoy juicy, tasty berries.

How to care for watermelons

The climate of central Russia allows you to grow a heat-loving crop in open ground. Watermelons ripen perfectly Astrakhan region, in the Crimea and the Caucasus, in the Central Black Earth and Primorye. If you plan to plant watermelons in a harsh climate, then you will need to install a heated greenhouse in advance to prevent freezing of the grown seedlings during return frosts. This option is suitable for gardeners in Siberia and the Urals. In Central Russia, early and mid-early varieties are grown, as well as hybrid, unpretentious and cold-resistant.

Useful tips from experienced gardeners:

1. First you need to choose a watermelon variety suitable for the climate, the seedlings of which, if necessary, will endure spring frosts.
2. It is important to choose the site correctly, as the culture is planted in light sandy soil, without lumps and stagnant moisture.
3. Be sure to decide in advance on the landing site, protected from the winds, and prepare the upper fertile layer.

The plot for future watermelon beds is dug up manually or “under the plow”, taking care of fertility. To do this, a layer of chicken manure or cow manure is first spread over the surface of the soil. Plowed fertilizer should "settle", so the beds are left alone for 2-3 days.

This time is just right for preparing the selected seed for planting. Seeds are dipped in warm water, where potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) is added. Chemical substance at the tip of a knife, dilute in one liter of water and leave watermelon seeds in this solution for 30 minutes for disinfection.

For disinfection, the seeds are placed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes.

Sometimes the seeds are hardened by lowering the temperature. The seed in a wet napkin is placed in the refrigerator for three days, maintaining the required level of humidity. The procedure guarantees the germination of seeds in difficult weather conditions and the resistance of seedlings to cold.

The germination process is as follows: after rejecting the defective material, the seeds are placed in a damp cloth for a day and left at room temperature. Such a manipulation wakes up the sprouts that have fallen asleep in the winter, allowing them to hatch a little. Now everything is ready for landing.

Watermelon seedling care at home

Melons germinate well in plastic and paper cups or in peat tablets- it all depends on the financial capabilities of the gardener. To grow strong seedlings, it is necessary to prepare peat humus, which is mixed with manure in a ratio of 1: 0.2 and wood ash is added (3-4 cups per 10-liter bucket). The resulting fertile mixture is compacted in a container for planting seeds and sprinkled with sandy soil or turf. To improve drainage, sawdust is poured into the bottom of the cups.

The germinated seeds are lowered into the prepared substrate to a depth of 2–4 cm, sprinkled and lightly crushed, then watered moderately and wait for germination. Be sure to ensure that the surface of the soil does not dry out and does not crack. To avoid this, it is enough to spray the surface with warm water from a spray bottle and maintain the required temperature - up to + 26–28 ° C, lowering at night to + 18 ° C.

There is an opinion that a seed planted sideways in the substrate germinates better.

On the fourth or fifth day, the first shoots appear, which require close attention. After 10-14 days, when young watermelons rise and get stronger, they are watered once a day under the root and once every three weeks they are fed with tincture of bird droppings or mullein in a ratio of 1:10.

A week before transplanting, young shoots of watermelon need to be hardened off.

Be sure to monitor the lighting so that the sprouts do not stretch, and maintain humidity within 70%. Excess moisture is not beneficial, so both watering and spraying should be moderate.

A week before transplanting, grown plants are hardened off. To do this, increase the ventilation of the room where the seedlings stand. If there is enough time and effort, young watermelons are taken out to the balcony or street for several hours. This allows melons to adapt to outdoor temperature and humidity.

How to care for watermelons outdoors

When the May frosts are behind, gardeners prepare a plot on which the predecessors were legumes or potatoes. Melon crops feel good on sandy soils and light loams. 30-35 days after sowing, in the 3-leaf phase, healthy young watermelons on a strong thick leg are selected and transplanted into abundantly watered beds. This procedure is carried out when a constant is established on the street. average temperature+15 °C to +20 °C and the danger of frost has passed.

Landing pattern:

1. The prepared hole, about 10 cm deep, is fertilized with rotted manure and mulched.
2. The beds are staggered at a distance of 1.5–2 m from each other.
3. 2-3 bushes are planted scattered in one hole.
4. Plants are planted next to corn or potatoes on a flat area, as the moisture will leave on the slope, and the melon will wither and stop growing.

Video: planting watermelon seedlings in open ground

Plants require sunny weather and abundant watering. Watermelons do not dive at the beginning of the growing season, they are planted immediately in a permanent place. Removal of malicious weeds, weeding and periodic top dressing will provide fast development and abundant flowering melons.

In July, watermelons fade, and the first fruit ovaries appear

The grown lashes are sprinkled with soil to form additional roots, so that the plant becomes more powerful and strong.

How to care for watermelons in a greenhouse

Most amateur gardeners in the northern regions of our country grow an exotic crop in polycarbonate greenhouses. To get a harvest in difficult weather conditions, it is recommended to plant early varieties of watermelons, which you can grow yourself from seedlings or buy from experienced gardeners an already hardened culture in the 3-leaf phase.

At the time of planting in the greenhouse, it is necessary to maintain a constant temperature within + 20–25 ° C and humidity - 60–70%. It is also advisable to use additional lighting and heaters so that there are no sharp jumps in daily temperature. Light must be present for at least 12 hours.

The main care for watermelons in greenhouse conditions comes down to regular watering with water at room temperature and periodic feeding with solutions of mineral and organic fertilizers. Young plants require loosening to prevent waterlogging and rotting, as well as ventilation to combat the growth of bacteria in a humid greenhouse environment.

When the plants begin to branch out and the first fruits are tied, choose 2-3 lashes and leave 1 or 2 watermelons on each, located closest to mother bush. Departing from the ovaries 10–15 cm, the stem of the tops is cut off. At the same time, the end of the cut shoot should not end with a bare, leafless stem, which will gradually dry out. 2-3 young leaves remain, providing the process of photosynthesis on tops with watermelons.

It is customary to lay growing watermelons on a wooden flooring, which is a few thin boards 50 * 50 cm in size, knocked together, or a piece of building wood-slab of the same size. This is done in order to avoid fruit rotting in conditions high humidity greenhouses. Cardboard is also suitable for isolating fruits from damp earth. But since its structure can change under the influence of moisture, this material must be periodically replaced with fresh one.

Another support option for a growing berry is tying watermelons on a trellis or lowering them into nets. When the fruit reaches the size walnut, they are carefully tied with twine to metal posts. After 2-3 weeks, when the watermelons are still growing, they are lowered into nets (for example, onion bags), leave room for further growth of the fetus and tie. A wire is pulled between the posts, on which hooks are attached at a height of about 20-30 cm from the ground, since watermelons gain weight quickly and can break off the fasteners if placed high. A net with a young berry is hung on a hook by twine, which saves space on the site and prevents watermelons from stale on wet ground and rot.

Since most varieties of gourds are pollinated, bees must have open access to plants in the greenhouse, especially in clear, sunny weather.

When to Harvest

The degree of maturity of a watermelon can be determined by its weight and size. Mid-season and early hybrids are already gaining 4-6 kg by the beginning of August and can be of impressive size. If during the season the weather was hot and accompanied by periodic thunderstorms and rains, and spring was without long night frosts and prolonged cold snaps, then by this time the fruit will already be sweet and juicy. But a sufficient amount of sugars and the highest degree of maturity in gourds is achieved in 90–120 days. A watermelon is considered ripe when:

• the stalk dries up and the leaves turn yellow;
• the peel becomes glossy and shiny, and a yellow spot forms at the point of contact of the fruit with the ground;
• when tapping on the surface of the berry, a dull sound is heard.

Video: how to determine the ripeness of a watermelon

As you know, ripe and juicy watermelon is very vulnerable. If it is knocked on or awkwardly lowered onto a hard surface, the fruit may crack. And if the pulp of such a berry is sugary and granular, then there is no doubt that the crop is ripe.

How to properly pinch watermelons

Pinching young shoots, in order to prevent their abundant growth and excessive shading of melons, will be coordinated with the timing of fruit ripening and the region where the plant is grown. This means that in the northern regions of our country, pinching the shoots must be done as early as possible - as soon as the first ovary appears (1-2 watermelons on one stem). New young shoots will not take up nutrients, and the berry will have time to gain weight and ripen during the short northern summer.

If it is an early variety of watermelon, it does not always need to be pinched. But if the stepchildren grow profusely, the shortening of the shoots should be done immediately, as soon as the first fruits are tied on the central stem. This guarantees rapid maturation, and ripe watermelons will appear much earlier than on later varieties.

Pinching is the removal of stepchildren: one central stem remains and several rudiments of future fruits on it, and two lateral ones, on which no more than 2 fruits are also left. All new shoots are recommended to be removed in a timely manner along with the ovary.

On the central stem, 2-3 leaves remain in the axils of secondary shoots, preserved after pinching. Young ovaries require careful handling, so fragile, juicy tops should not be moved or moved often. It is recommended to leave watermelons on one stem at a distance of 10–15 cm so that they do not interfere with each other as the fruits grow.

In order for melon exotics to meet all the gardener's expectations, the removal of stepchildren must be done on time. The procedure is carried out for plants, guided by the following rules:

1. Pinching is done immediately after the appearance of the first ovaries.
2. 2-3 watermelons are left on young shoots, the rest are cut off, as they take all the strength and power of the plant and do not allow it to develop rapidly.
3. As a rule, depending on the variety, 4-6 fruits are left.

Thus, one central stem and two side stems remain, which have from one to three set fruits. Early varieties Ogonyok and Gift to the North, with a growing season of up to 80 days, do not need pinching. Most of the ovaries have time to ripen and gain enough mass and sweetness over the summer season.

If you plan to grow a very large and massive berry, you should leave only 1 or 2 ovaries - they will get the bulk of the nutrients. Maximum fiber buildup will occur much faster in one or two fetuses. If there are a lot of watermelons, the harvest will not be so rich.

In the greenhouse and in the southern regions of our country, the procedure is carried out if it is necessary to thin out plantings of melons and exclude rotting of densely located tops. Abundant plant growth occurs while maintaining a constant temperature and humidity sufficient for the ripening of all fruit that has set. It will be necessary to remove excess shoots if the plants begin to interfere with each other and shade too much. But even without pinching, you can achieve a bountiful harvest of watermelons.

Video: do I need to pinch watermelons in a greenhouse

Watering rules

During the period of active growth of melons, plentiful and frequent watering is required. Watermelons respond well to sprinkling. Some gardeners use a conventional watering can and water each bush by hand. But it is very time consuming in the area with large area landings.

Usually they put a stationary sprinkler, powered by pumping station, for 3-4 hours. It is best to carry out this procedure in the evening, as the moisture is well absorbed and will not evaporate quickly. Such irrigation is preferable at the beginning of the growing season, when the melon tops grow abundantly and unwind over the site.

When the flowering period is over, and the first ovary has appeared, you should reduce sprinkling and switch to drip irrigation. This method involves the use of a special hose with holes from which water is supplied in a dosed manner and without pressure. Holes with a spout should be within the radius of the hole so that all moisture is absorbed by the roots and does not evaporate.

When fertilizing, watering under the root is used. First, the prepared dosed top dressing is poured into the hole (about 0.3–0.5 liters per bush), then it is carefully watered so that it does not spread over the surface of the soil, and the near-root substrate is thoroughly saturated with useful microelements. If root watering is carried out, then the best option- separated rain water.

Full watering and hot summers guarantee an excellent harvest of gourds.

During the period of growth of stems and the formation of ovaries, plants especially need watering. It is known that the root system of gourds is very dense and rather long, therefore, during the active growing season, daily soil moisture in the hole is required.

• If watering is carried out every day, then for one medium-sized melon bush, 1-2 liters of settled water is enough.
• When moistening the soil every 3-4 days, about 5 liters of water per plant will be required.
• When irrigating watermelons once a week, it is necessary to gradually pour a full 10-liter bucket under each plant bush as it is absorbed, or install a drip irrigation system for 3-5 hours.

Watermelon is watered late in the evening or early in the morning, in order to avoid evaporation of moisture by the sun, and in order not to form a crust, the beds should be loosened on the second day after watering. If this is not enough, there is not enough moisture, and the leaves wither and turn yellow, it is recommended to put a layer of mulch from straw or dried hay around the watermelon holes.

It is very important that with standard irrigation of a plot with melons, the soil layer is saturated by 20–50 cm, and the humidity is kept within 80%. More high level Humidity in hot weather can lead to the development of phytophthora.

If there are 2 or 3 watermelons on the tops, when they come into contact and at high humidity, there is a possibility of developing fungal diseases and spreading bacterial rot. With abundant fruiting, watermelons are watered gently under the root, trying not to affect the fruits. They try to isolate the berries from the moist surface of the soil and from each other with the help of special flooring.

As a rule, hot and sunny weather sets in in Central Russia at the end of July-August. Sprinkling will maintain the level of humidity in the beds and will not be a source of rot of tops and fruits on melons. In this way, it is enough to water the plants twice a week. Irrigation is always accompanied by loosening the earth in the hole (to enrich the roots with oxygen) and subsequent top dressing.

Top dressing of watermelons

The deficiency of minerals and organics is determined visually by the state of the plant. If gourds turn yellow or the stems become thin and the foliage is sparse, urgent fertilization is most likely required.

Feeding is necessary for:

• low fertility of the land in the garden,
• increased acidity of the soil.

In the first 30 days, when the seedlings are just gaining strength, it is useful to feed them with a weak solution of mineral fertilizers Malyshok or Bogatyr according to the instructions and no more than 1 time per week. Before the seedlings are in a permanent place, they are sprayed with a mixture of 1% Bordeaux liquid and one drop of iodine per liter of water. Such a procedure will be an excellent prevention of fungal and foul diseases of cultivated plants.

Melons are very responsive to the periodic application of organic fertilizers and minerals. Excellent result yields fermented organic matter. Chicken manure and mullein infused for 10–14 days are used for regular top dressing once every 10 days. A concentrated solution of litter or manure is diluted with water in a ratio of 1/5 and allowed to brew for a day. Then, 20 g of pharmacy powder is added to a bucket of the prepared solution. boric acid and stir thoroughly. It turns out a dark brown liquid, diluted with a suspension, with a specific smell of litter. The organic mixture is used as a root top dressing, which not only enriches the soil with microelements, but also enhances growth, improves plant immunity and makes them more resistant to fungal diseases and late blight.

Mineral dressings for melons are:

• simple, when one chemical element is introduced;
• complex - at the same time they are fed with a whole set of mineral fertilizers.

An integrated method of introducing useful minerals involves a combination of ammonium nitrate (10–15 g), superphosphate (40–50 g) and potassium chloride (25–30 g), which are dissolved in 10 liters of water. Watermelons are fed at least twice during the growing season with potash and phosphorus fertilizers. Potassium increases the amount of sugars in fruits, and the nitrogen-phosphorus composition helps shoots develop, enhances photosynthesis and increases plant immunity. After the procedure, the beds are carefully shed.

The following method is used as an alternative top dressing: for 3 liters of water, take 5 tbsp. l. sugar and 40 g of yeast and left to ferment for 2-5 days. The resulting solution is diluted in half with water at room temperature and applied under the root at the rate of about 150–200 grams per bush. It is recommended at least once during the growth period to carry out foliar top dressing with a yeast solution.

You can use special fertilizers for melons, which are not only watered, but also sprayed on plants to increase the ovaries (foliar top dressing). In the season of rains and thunderstorms, Nutriflex is treated 2-3 times - during budding and flowering. This procedure helps to increase the number of ovaries and increase resistance to fungal diseases.

Photo gallery: top dressing and fertilizers for gourds

A solution of chicken manure not only enriches the soil, enhances growth, improves the immunity of watermelons, but also makes them more resistant to fungal diseases.
Nutriflex helps to increase the number of ovaries and increase resistance to fungal diseases during the rainy season A weak solution of fertilizer Bogatyr is useful for watermelon seedlings A solution of yeast with sugar is a useful foliar top dressing for watermelons

Pests and diseases

The most common harmful insects that spoil the beds with watermelons:

• wireworm,
• bear,
• caterpillars and slugs,

Various agrotechnical measures and special chemicals that are safe for the crop help to fight pests. Digging the earth in the offseason destroys the larvae of soil harmful insects. And the timely fight against ants on the site will not allow aphids to spread.

Bacterial rot requires prompt action by the gardener

Partially, all these troubles can be avoided thanks to proper care and watering, as well as regular fertilization to increase the plant's immunity. Significant assistance in the fight against infection of foliage and fruits is provided by biological methods of protection:

• spraying shoots with a soapy-ash solution: 1 tbsp. l. laundry soap+ 1 kg of ash + 10 l of water;
• watering and spraying initial stage zabloevanie nastya tobacco, garlic, wormwood and other herbs.

Fitosporin-M will help to avoid fungal diseases and phytophthora. Another way is to dilute 5 drops of iodine in 1 liter of water and add 1 liter of whey. Spray watermelon bushes in the morning so that the foliage absorbs the solution during the day.

Each gardener on his site can grow a sugary, juicy watermelon without much effort. If the weather contributes to this, there will be no difficulties, since the melon is demanding only for periodic top dressing and needs regular watering and sunny, hot weather. Watermelon is rarely affected by late blight and easily tolerates heat. The man-made result will be a sweet, sugary fruit without nitrates and other chemicals, cut into slices for dessert. No one will refuse such a delicious exotic.

Watermelon - melon culture. For proper growth and development initial stage he needs light and warmth. Nevertheless, it is not so difficult to grow a good crop of watermelons in the open field in the cool Russian climate. This requires the right variety and farming techniques, knowing where and how watermelons grow, and following simple rules.

For the first time thinking, in the suburbs or another cool region, the first thing to do is to decide on the seed.
Special varieties of watermelons are suitable for growing even in January - hardy and early ripening, for example, Olginsky, Ogonyok, Sugar Baby, Skorik, Crimson Sweet, Siberian Lights, etc. Hybrid species grow well. The answer to the question, how long is the average fruit ripening period for the middle band, will be 70-80 days. Varieties in non-hot regions are mostly medium-sized - from 2 kg. The average weight is 4-6, rarely 5-8 kg.

When choosing which varieties of watermelons are grown in the Moscow region or other areas with a cool climate, preference should be given to names specially designed for central Russia. Their diversity allows you to get different fruits. The characteristics of the varieties are varied - the weight of the fruit can be from 2 to 5-6 kg for various items, the peel can be both thin and thick. The latter is convenient for long hauls. But the fruits of all varieties are juicy, with sweet pulp.

Soil for planting watermelons

In many regions of Russia, heavy, clayey soils predominate. It is difficult for a watermelon to grow in such soil - its roots are not able to develop in dense soil. And the fruits of watermelon gain juiciness precisely from penetrating deep into the ground and widely growing roots. Deep loosening is not able to significantly improve the situation, so in most cases the soil has to be “diluted” with sand applied along with fertilizer.

For planting watermelons, areas after planting winter wheat, alfalfa, cabbage, onions or potatoes are well suited. A place to spend in the open field in the garden, you need a sunny one. Hole preparation begins in the fall. The diameter of the future hole is about 1 m in diameter. The distance between them is a meter and a half. In addition to peat or humus, sand is added to heavy clay soil: for 1 m2 - 1-2 buckets of fertilizer and 1-2 buckets of sand.

In the spring, before planting, the technology for growing watermelons in open ground involves digging up a plot prepared for melons with a cultivator or pitchfork. Soil acidity for watermelons should not exceed 7.0.

Sowing

For a crop such as watermelons, outdoor cultivation is possible using seeds or seedlings. Sometimes both methods are combined, planting seeds between seedlings. Some gardeners recommend not saving on seeds and carrying out dense sowing so that the strongest shoots can subsequently be selected.

The disembarkation begins approximately in the middle of May, focusing on the weather (approximately 10-20th). Landing is acceptable from mid-April to mid-June. They are guided by the temperature of the soil (16 C).

seeds

Before growing watermelons in open ground, seed preparation is carried out. For about 10 days before sowing, they are heated in the sun (up to 55C dry, and up to 30C wet). If it is impossible to warm up in the sun since February, the seeds are stored near the battery.

Heated seeds are soaked in water for half an hour. Those that emerge are discarded because they will not ascend. After that, the remaining material is poured hot water(50-60C). After cooling, the water is drained and poured so that the seeds hatch. Before sowing, some gardeners recommend treating the seeds with a solution of potassium permanganate or a solution of ash (the latter is sometimes left overnight).

Landing is carried out to a depth of 4-8 cm. running meter up to 10 seeds are planted (sometimes more, with the expectation that not everyone can sprout). Subsequently, the strongest plants are left. Immediately after sowing, the soil is shed with warm water.

If watermelons are grown in Siberia in the ground, experienced gardeners it is advised to repeat the sowing in a week in case the first seeds die or become sick due to cold weather.

Seedling

Peat pots are convenient for seedlings. You won’t have to transplant sprouted plants from them, which means there will be no risk of injuring the fragile root system. If you take plastic cups, seedlings should be transplanted with a clod of earth very carefully. How many days do you need to keep the seedlings at home? Plants are planted at the age of 30-35 days. So when preparing, you need to focus on climatic conditions and long-range weather forecast.

In preparation, experienced gardeners recommend planting two seeds per peat pot. Sometimes it happens that one is not the same. When both emerge, one sprout is cut off (it should not be pulled out so as not to damage the roots of the remaining plant).

Each pot or plastic cup is 2/3 filled with a mixture of turf, peat and humus in a ratio of 1:2:1. Seeds are soaked in warm water for 10 minutes and buried in the resulting mixture by 1 cm.

The ideal temperature for germination is 25-30 C.

When the first true leaf germinates, mineral fertilizer is applied, and after 2 weeks - again. When germinating, make sure that the overgrown leaves in pots do not touch.

Before planting, especially if watermelons are grown in Siberia in open ground, 7-10 days before planting on melons, they begin to “harden off” the seedlings. During the day, the temperature is lowered to 17 C, and at night - to 12-15 C. The soil of the prepared melon is fertilized before transplanting (about 2 kg of compost) and watered abundantly. The sprouts are buried by 8-10 cm, but the root collar must be left above the soil surface. When planting 2 plants in the hole, you need to check that they do not touch. So that a crust does not form on the surface, the pits are covered with dry soil.

watermelon care

When shoots appear, they are gradually thinned out. 1, rarely 2 plants remain in the hole. If night frosts occur in early June - this happens when watermelons are grown in Siberia - melons are covered with a film or non-woven fabric for the night. Weeding is necessary - weeds near watermelons are unacceptable. Loosening and weeding the holes should be done very carefully, because the roots of watermelons grow widely, and if stepped on, they can be damaged.

Plants are fed in June, when leaves appear on sprouts. The second time fertilizers are applied in a month, in case they grow poorly. The lashes are pinched once - they pinch the side lashes to leave one main one. You can pinch the crown of the main lash after the appearance of 3-6 ovaries. That is how many fruits will have time to ripen before the end of summer. How to carry out the formation of watermelon in the open field - the scheme depends on the preferences of the farmer and weather conditions. The number of ovaries is left such that all the fruits have time to ripen.

For watermelon culture: cultivation and care in the open field is expected rare watering– only in extreme heat and dry weather. However, some gardeners recommend continuing watering throughout the season, stopping them only 3-5 days before harvesting ripe berries - because in order for a watermelon to become juicy and sweet, it needs not only solar heat, but also enough water.
After each watering, the soil is loosened.

In August, during ripening, it is recommended to turn watermelons once a week so that they ripen evenly and there is no rotting. Sometimes, in wet weather, foil or small boards are placed under them so that moisture does not spoil the fruit. In windy weather, the lashes are sprinkled with wet earth.

Gardeners practicing the cultivation of watermelons in the Moscow region in the open field offer two methods: in spreading (whips spread along the ground) and on a trellis (the berries are hung in nets so that they do not break off the stalk and do not damage the lash). In a hot dry summer, the fruits left in spread are more likely to ripen. In wet, rainy weather - fruits ripen better on trellises.

Harvesting

How long does a gardener have to wait for a harvest? Berry ripening occurs by August. Readiness for collection is determined by a number of signs. The sound when tapping on the surface of the watermelon is heard deaf. The surface of the fruit is glossy, the peel is dense. There are no hairs on the stalk, and the tip dries. Interesting fact: In Israel, watermelons are grown on a tree!

Only the ripest fruits are cut during the warm season. Mass harvesting is carried out only when there is a threat of frost. If the watermelons are going to be stored or transported for sale, they are harvested a little underripe, without waiting a few days - this does not harm either taste or usefulness. Only fully ripened berries are suitable for obtaining seeds.