Stretch two-level ceilings installation contours. How to install a two-level stretch ceiling? Description, photo

Some ten years ago, almost no one knew about stretch ceilings. Plasterboard structures equipped with lighting were installed in apartments and in private houses. Now stretch ceilings are gradually replacing drywall, which is not very durable. After a while, drywall will begin to crack, and all repairs will have to be redone again. Previously, the stretch ceiling was made single-level, but construction technologies do not stand still. Nowadays, two-level stretch ceilings for the hall have become popular. Photos, features and installation - further in our article.

pros

These options are acceptable if it is necessary to hide the defects and shortcomings of the base ceiling and communication from the eyes. At the same time, not much time is allotted to resolve this issue. You can stop at the installation of stretch canvases even when an additional layer of insulation materials is planned. The thickness of this layer does not really matter.

Stretch coatings are also a good choice if you are tired of frequent maintenance and repair of your ceiling surface. Even if the house is subject to shrinkage, and cracks begin to form on the surface, this will not be noticeable. The canvas that is used in the process of installing ceilings is very elastic. It easily compensates for even significant movements of the building.

disadvantages

But do not give preference to these ceilings if the room does not have the ability to maintain a constant temperature regime. In case of insufficient and irregular heating, PVC films can be damaged. As a result of exposure to cold, the quality of the film or fabric deteriorates significantly. These materials gradually lose their unique properties until complete destruction.

Small children can also be a limitation of the installation of two-level stretch ceilings, and indeed any stretch structures - they can be easily pierced with sharp objects. Also, the material can be easily torn as a result of children's play.

Another disadvantage is cost. At first glance, it is acceptable, but if you include the installation costs and equipment in the price, then it is possible that it will be too expensive.

Features of two-level structures

Two-level stretch ceilings (photo examples are in our article) are no different from single-level ones. Modern designs are made of PVC or fabric material, fixed on a special frame. After installation work, the canvas is stretched and becomes perfectly flat without seams. Although, in this case, the blade actually has very strong welding seams.

Design options for two-tier products

Designs can have a different head start, color and material. Today, PVC films and fabric matte canvases are widely used.

The backlit two-level stretch ceiling is a decorative structure made of metal and plastic profiles that is attached to the main ceiling to hide irregularities and laid communications. All this is covered with an elastic canvas without the formation of a rigid metal frame, as when installing suspended ceilings. This solution looks extremely attractive. Today we will find out how to make such a ceiling at home with our own hands.

Preparatory stage

Installation of a two-level stretch ceiling begins with the preparation of the draft level. The old finish is removed, whitewash is completely washed off down to the concrete layer.

Already at this stage, it is necessary to draw up a preliminary sketch of the future project. The main thing is to determine the locations of the future lighting fixtures. With such a ceiling design, it is recommended to create two levels of illumination - the main (chandelier, lamps) and local (hidden illumination based on LED strips, recessed spotlights).

Stretch ceiling prices

stretch ceiling

The installation itself of the stretch ceiling and its frame begins only after the rough finish dries out. In the room where all this will take place, it is necessary to maintain low humidity (about 75%) and a relatively high air temperature (about 24 ° C). This is necessary to properly spread the tensioned web and prevent it from sagging.

At a time when the primer and plaster dries up, it is necessary to prepare the very sketch of a two-level ceiling. Clearly determine what shape will outline the contours of each of the levels, where the main lighting (chandelier) will be located. First, all this is done in pencil on paper, then transferred to the ceiling.

Curved lines are most conveniently drawn along the plastic profile applied to the ceiling. It flexes easily while maintaining smooth transitions.

Having drawn up the drawing according to which the levels will be created, you need to set the height at which you plan to place the lower level of the stretch ceiling. The optimal size is 15 centimeters or more. If the main ceiling has irregularities and bevels, then you can use the laser level and make marks on each of the walls where a profile will be fixed in the future, on which, in turn, an elastic base will be stretched.

Ceiling profiles prices

ceiling profile

Scheme 1. Construction with hidden illumination: 1 - aluminum construction with hidden illumination; 2 - auxiliary bar; 3 - wall baguette; 4, 5 - harpoon tensioning cloth; 6 - backlight; dimensions are in millimeters.

Scheme 2. Sectional design of a multi-level stretch ceiling ('harpoon' type mount): 1 - upper level of the stretch structure; 2 - separator; 3 - plugs for separators; 4 - bump stop; 5 - base ceiling; 6 - inner frame; 7 - the lower level of the ceiling; 8 - wall profile, as well as a plug to it; 9 - walls; 10 - decorative plinth.

In those places where the lamps and the chandelier will be located, wooden bars are attached to adjust the level. Already after the formation of the tension level, here you need to make holes (by soldering) and attach the lamp with brackets, closing the installation site with a decorative insert.

Installation of a plastic frame

Step 1. The installation of the plastic frame begins with the fastening of wooden retaining bars for the future profile. They are attached to the main ceiling with dowels. This is a simplified variation of the stiffening framework. You can replace it with metal U- and C-shaped profiles, but without experience it will not work to create such a structure. Therefore, it is better to use just wooden blocks. They are fastened with an indent between each other of 20-30 centimeters.

Another option is to install a stretch ceiling frame

Step 2. Now the installation of the plastic profile itself is carried out along the previously drawn line. It is attached to the bars with ordinary wood screws. The ends of the plastic profiles are connected with an additional plastic insert. It should also be fixed to the tree. The lower part of the plastic profile is closed with an angular flexible perforated insert - it is glued onto a polyurethane or similar adhesive. This is done so that when the web is pulled, there are no sharp corners about which the elastic material can tear.

Spotlight prices

spotlight

You can also use an aluminum profile - you need to file it with a grinder, and you can't rush here, the final cut is finished with a hacksaw for metal

Step 3. In the process of installing a plastic profile, it is important not to damage the communication cable (for example, a fire alarm). They are either closed with a narrow plastic box, or fixed to the ceiling with brackets. At the junction of the cable and the frame, a small incision is made in the latter.

Step 4. The plastic profile sets the height of the lower level of the future ceiling. Be sure to check the reliability of the fastening. The best option is a point load of 15 kilograms. Such a margin of safety will be sufficient even taking into account the possible flooding from the neighbors (if we are talking about an apartment).

Step 5. In places where the plastic comes into contact with the wall, the corners of the profile are constrained. It is more convenient to do this with a grinder with an emery sheet or a regular file. It is necessary to create a smooth bevel towards the wall so that the point of contact is smooth, without a rough transition. At the point of contact, a metal profile with a harpoon is attached, since the tensioning material will also be attached along this line.

After fixing the plastic, you can start assembling metal profiles. They are attached along the perimeter of the wall at a previously set level (using a laser). In this case, a special profile is used specifically for the stretch ceiling. Its key difference is the presence of an elastic clamping insert (called a harpoon) inside. It is she who will hold the ends of the canvas stretched over the frame. Such a profile is attached to the wall. Dowels are used as fasteners.

The same metal profile is attached to the plastic one (on the outside, where there are no bars). Self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. Next, you need to close all the noticeable hats of the fasteners with light masking tape. Otherwise, they will be noticeable in the case of using a glossy light base - it shines through in bright light.

The most difficult thing in the installation of profiles is to maintain a given level, therefore, after each stage, you need to check the maintenance of straight lines. If an error is detected in a timely manner, it is easy to fix it. But when everything is already covered with a canvas, then even minor flaws will be striking. To fix them, in this case, you will need to dismantle the frame.

Stretch ceiling materials

There are 2 main types of stretch ceiling materials:

• PVC film (polyvinyl chloride);
• the cloth.

Which one is better? You can list the benefits of each of them.

Table. Comparison of the advantages of fabric and film ceilings.

But fabric material for stretch ceilings is much more expensive. It is allowed to use several materials at once. For example, the first level will be made of glossy PVC film to visually increase the space, the second - from fabric with a satin-like texture. This is the optimal combination that designers often use.

Be that as it may, the final choice is up to the consumer. It is recommended to visit specialized stores and independently assess the attractiveness of each of the materials by examining their texture. You can even order a film on the ceiling according to your own drawing. Everything is limited only by the flight of imagination and the size of the wallet, nothing more.

Is it possible to combine stretch fabric and suspended plasterboard in two-level ceilings? This option is possible, but devoid of any sense. An exception is forced zoning of space. This is done when, for example, it is necessary to divide one large room into a sleeping and a guest area. An aluminum frame made of C-shaped profiles must be installed under the rigid base.

Tensioning the canvas

The selected canvas is stretched in the following order:

• first the lower level (the one closer to the floor);
• then the upper level (the one closer to the main ceiling).

Below is an algorithm of the required actions.

Step 1. It is imperative that when straightening the canvas, it is blown with a gas heat gun (if PVC film is mounted). This is done to smooth out and eliminate wrinkles and prevent accidental tears.

Prices for fabric stretch ceiling

fabric stretch ceiling

Step 2. Then the canvas is straightened and suspended at a height of at least 1.5-2 meters with special clothespins with rubber "sponges" - no trace remains after them. From below, the canvas is re-blown with a gas cannon to straighten all the folds. As a result, the material looks like it was ironed out. The room temperature will rise up to 30 ° C, but the windows must not be opened.

Step 3. Then you can start stretching the canvas. They start from the side of the plastic profile, from the corner (it is called "base"). As practice shows, it is most convenient to use plastic spatulas. They simply "put on" the edge of the canvas and push it into the harpoon. There, the canvas is securely fastened with an insert, and it will not be possible to pull it out without the same spatula. This is done in every corner, after which the material is re-processed with a heat gun. This time, the canvas should be completely flat and smooth.

Step 4. After the film has cooled down, fasteners are carried out along the entire perimeter of the level. There is no need to rush here. It is imperative to ensure that the tension is evenly distributed so that screeds do not form. The place where the canvas is attached to the plastic profile is sealed with reinforced tape. A new profile for the upper level of the stretch ceiling will be attached there. It is mounted with the same self-tapping screws (you can use self-tapping flea screws with recessed caps). Next, you can start straightening the second canvas.

The technique is similar and includes:

• straightening;
• hanging;
• warming up with a heat gun;
• fastening at the corners;
• reheating;
• final harpoon fasteners.

It remains only to close all the seams with decorative rubber inserts (tourniquet). It is manually pushed into the profile with the thin side without glue. If necessary, it can be quickly removed to pull off part of the canvas. This will be needed to access the wiring, communications, covered with a stretch ceiling.

Installation of lighting and lamps

How to determine where you need to make a hole in a stretched canvas? It is easily pressed with your hands, thereby finding pre-attached bars or plastic rings. You cannot cut through the canvas - it must be burned. You can simply heat a piece of rounded fittings under a hot air gun and make a hole with the required diameter (but not more than 2-3 centimeters). The main thing is that the ends must be melted so that the canvas does not break. Cutting is allowed only in the case of using a special thermal ring made of thin plastic, which is glued in the center of the future hole. Then the material is carefully cut along the inner contour of the ring.

Further, all the lamps are fixed (with a suspension, if necessary), the fastening points are closed with decorative inserts (they are included in the kit with the lighting devices). If necessary, power supplies, automatic machines (for LED backlighting or some energy-saving lamps) are attached to the rough ceiling. When performing these works, it is necessary to de-energize the room.

What other lighting options are combined with stretch ceilings? Hidden LED strips look attractive - they are hidden behind the ceiling cornice. You can even use LED lighting with a changeable lighting color. On request, a remote control unit can also be supplied - manufacturers offer any variations. The choice depends only on the preferences of the owner of the house.

Prices for LED strips

If a glossy PVC film was used as a stretch canvas, then lamps directed to the ceiling can be attached to the wall along the perimeter of the room. You will get the effect of a mirror, which visually doubles the free space. Relevant for small cramped rooms.

After the installation of lighting fixtures is completed, the arrangement of the stretch two-level ceiling can be considered complete. The control is carried out by a laser level. There are no rules for the care of the canvas. If necessary, wipe it with a damp sponge (refers to PVC film). The service life of such a ceiling reaches 20 years. Most manufacturers of tensioning materials provide a 5-12 year warranty. Be that as it may, it is not necessary to change the frame with repeated cosmetic repairs. It is enough to remove the old tensioning material and replace it with a new one. Simplicity, attractiveness and low cost are the main advantages of such ceilings!

And at the end - a few more examples of bunk stretch ceilings

Video - Installation of a two-level stretch ceiling with lighting

Many people choose to do their own repairs. If there are usually no difficulties with walls and floors, then ceiling decoration raises a lot of questions. Especially in a situation where it is only necessary to update it. Only a specialist can properly align it, but there will be a lot of dust. A stretch ceiling is a good solution. It has a number of advantages (huge selection of colors and patterns, durability, etc.), but its installation is quite expensive. To save money, you can familiarize yourself with the installation technology and perform this procedure yourself.

Varieties of stretch ceiling and its advantages

All tensioning structures have the following advantages:

• they completely hide the imperfections of the ceiling, communications, electrical wiring, additional lighting elements;
• the canvas used does not support combustion;
• the material excludes the appearance of condensation, fungus, stains;
• the service life of such ceilings is more than 10 years;
• installation is quick, dust and dirt free.

Stretch ceilings differ in design, type of material, color and texture.

Each species has its own characteristics

There are two main materials used for stretch ceilings - PVC foil and fabric.

PVC foil

Cloth made of PVC film is used in 90% of cases.

Advantages:

• The material is sealed and does not allow water to pass through. Therefore, if the neighbors from above flood the room, then you just need to drain it through spotlights or a decorative plug.
• The film does not attract dust and does not form condensation.
• The smooth structure is resistant to dirt and does not absorb odors.
• The material is easy to wash.
• Thanks to a wide palette, you can implement any design solutions.

If the width of the ceiling is more than 3.2 meters, then you will have to weld the film to form a seam

The disadvantages include:

• The material cracks at subzero temperatures, so it cannot be used on balconies and unheated summer cottages.
• When overheated, the ceiling deforms, turns yellow and cracks.
• In case of mechanical damage, the film breaks.

The seam will be least noticeable on matte and satin surfaces.

PVC film is divided into several types:

• Glossy. Due to the fact that the surface is mirrored, the space visually becomes larger. For small rooms with low ceilings, it is recommended to choose light colors.

For spacious rooms, dark shades are more suitable.

No glare and no color distortion in any kind of lighting

• Satin... The ceiling will have a pearlescent sheen and beautiful texture. In natural light, it acquires a natural color, and in artificial light, it gently reflects light. This property is often used by designers to add volume to a room.

The surface imitates satin.

• With photo printing. Any pattern can be applied to the surface of the film. The rest of the characteristics are similar to the previous types.

It is important to harmoniously fit the pattern on the ceiling into the interior.

Fabric ceilings

In this case, a fabric up to 5.5 m wide is used. The fabric is made from nylon or polyester yarns. Then it is soaked in polyurethane and dried. Fabric ceilings are most often matte and have a limited range of colors.

The advantages of the material are:

• High strength.
• Resistant to low temperatures, i.e. can be installed even in an unheated room.
• It is water-repellent. But with prolonged contact with water, it starts to leak.
• Drawing is easy to apply.
• You do not need to use a heat gun to install the fabric, so the fabric is more suitable for self-assembly.

If lamps will be located in the stretch ceiling, it is recommended to lower by 7 cm

It is important to measure accurately. The error should not be more than 5 mm.

Required tools for installation

Before starting the installation, make sure that you have all the tools:

• Angular hangers (according to the number of angles).
• Heat gun, gas cylinder and hose for connection. For a room up to 50 sq. m is enough 30 kW. It is only needed when installing PVC film.
• Roulette.
• Profile (baguette). It must be strong in order to withstand the canvas itself and water in case of leakage from neighbors. For a two-level ceiling, an invisible baguette and masking tape are used. Their number is equal to the perimeter of the room.
• Drill.
• Screwdriver. Used to fix profiles, luminaire brackets, etc.
• Narrow and long shoulder blade.
• Scissors for metal.
• Pliers.
• Hammer.
• Screws and dowels.
• Ladder.

Preparatory work

1. Assess the condition of the ceiling, clean up debris. If there is peeling whitewash or plaster on it, then they must be removed so that there is no damage to the canvas later.
2. All cracks in the ceiling must be carefully sealed with polyurethane foam to exclude air movement. Otherwise, the canvas will swell.
3. If possible, take out all the furniture. This will provide free movement and keep it from the heat gun.
4. The existing external wiring must be attached to the ceiling so that it does not touch the canvas. Lead the wires to the places where the lamps will be located. Built-in lamps and chandeliers will be mounted on special plastic platforms. There are universal ones that can be adjusted to any luminaire size.
5. If there are plastic slopes in the room, then they should be removed before heating so that they do not deform.

Stages of installation of PVC film

Installation of a stretch ceiling includes several stages, each of which is important to perform efficiently in order to achieve a good result.

For this, it is advisable to call an assistant.

Wall markings

In most apartment buildings, the ceilings have different heights (up to 5 cm difference) in all corners. Therefore, before marking the walls, you should measure the same from the floor and apply marks, while not forgetting about the presence of a chandelier or lighting. The laser level is set at the required height, and a line is drawn along the beam with a pencil.

The quality of the work done depends on the accuracy of measurements.

Installation of profiles

To prevent the baguette from moving during operation, it is recommended to glue it. Guided along the line, the profile is fixed with self-tapping screws and dowels at a distance of no more than 7-8 cm.

The dowels should not come close to the edge of the profile

Installation of PVC sheets

In order to evenly stretch the ceiling, it is necessary to warm up the room with a heat gun to 40 degrees Celsius. Installation of the film has the following sequence:

1. Remove the material from the packaging with clean hands. The floor must be free of construction debris, sharp objects that can damage the film.
2. 2 corners are attached diagonally. First, you should fix the first corner, then the second diagonally. Then repeat these steps with the rest, remembering to warm them up with a gun.
3. The fastening of the cloth at all corners is carried out with a special clip with a lining ("crocodile"), which will not damage the material. At the same time, it should sag.
4. Take two opposite corners and stretch.
5. First fix one corner, threading the harpoon into the guides until it clicks, then the other.
6. Do the same with the remaining corners. This is the most difficult stage, it is recommended to do it together or three. If the canvas does not stretch well, it should be heated with warm air.
7. At the end, it remains to tuck the harpoon into the guides along the entire wall. This action is easy because the film is already well stretched.
8. Cool the room down to normal temperature.

During installation, it is necessary to ensure that folds and distortions do not appear on the canvas. You can try to smooth them with your hand, having previously warmed up this place with a hairdryer.

Installation of a fabric ceiling

Preparatory work and installation of fabric ceiling profiles coincide with the installation of PVC. The only difference is that you don't need to use a heat gun.

Procedure:

1. Spread the canvas.
2. Fasten it with clips at the corners of the room, starting with a narrow wall.
3. Fasten the canvas pointwise in the middle of the wall, first on narrow and then on wide parts.
4. Then the procedure is repeated in the middle of the unprinted areas.
5. Saving the canvas begins from the center to the corners, pulling the canvas well. The remaining folds are smoothed out by hand after warming up with a hairdryer.

The final stage

Under the canvas, you should find the mounting platform by touch and glue the thermal rings at the point of fixing the lamp and connecting the wiring. For a spotlight, you need one ring according to the size of the fixture, for a chandelier, several small rings.

After the glue dries, cut holes and connect the wiring. Screw in the lamps and check their performance

Then comes the installation of a masking tape or ceiling plinth. They are located in the technological gap formed between the ceiling and the wall due to the existing profile. The masking tape must be sunk into the gap and pressed down with your fingers. Styrofoam and polyurethane skirting boards are attached with liquid nails. They can be painted.

Frequent mistakes

Inexperienced craftsmen can make the following mistakes:

How to make a two-level ceiling

Thanks to the two-level design, you can hide all the unevenness of the ceiling, zone the room, visually enlarge it, and make the lighting more effective.

In this case, different textures, colors, shapes are combined.

Preparing for installation

For a two-tier structure, you need:

• plastic or aluminum molding, which is needed to attach the canvas to the ceiling and box;
• a canvas consisting of several pieces;
• drywall;
• decorative insert.

Installation of a two-level ceiling is carried out after the completion of all dusty work.

Before that, you must:

• Know that the profile can be attached to concrete, brick, drywall, wood, plaster. The covering of the old ceiling must be cleaned of dirt and loose plaster.
• Think over the wiring diagram.

Making a frame for a two-level ceiling

This procedure consists of several stages:

Stretch ceiling has many advantages, and also allows you to bring to life all the most interesting ideas. To save most of your money, you can install it yourself by following the step-by-step instructions.

Do you want to learn how to put such complex ceilings as in the starting photo?

Then you've come to the right place! Today we will take a closer look at how the installation of stretch ceilings in two levels is carried out.

This material will be useful, first of all, for novice craftsmen who have not yet performed such work, but they do not want to miss a good client. And it is right!

You always need to strive for more, and not at the expense of your "I", which can often be found at different construction sites, when the masters "in words", in fact, cannot do what is required of them, but systematically developing their skills and abilities, becoming real professionals. A competent approach to business is the key to your success!

Preparation

We will go in order, and as usual with, work begins with the installation of the framework, but first, let's make a small digression in order to understand what we need to do in the end, and what materials and tools are needed for this.

Tools and materials

If you have previously pulled single-level ceilings, then it means that you already have the tool, but it will not be superfluous to repeat.

So:

As with almost any type of installation work, you still need:

• Pencil;
• Yardstick;
• Joiner's square;
• Markers;
• Dyeing thread;
• Stationery knife;
• Building level.

Perhaps we forgot to mention some of the little things, but when describing the installation, they will certainly come up, so we read on.

Now let's list the main material, accessories and consumables that you can't do without:

• The ceiling itself, where without it - after the frame is mounted, the film will stretch over it.

• Bearing wall molding - no matter what profile it is, or what material it is made of (PVC or aluminum), we are now interested in its functional purpose. This baguette is screwed along the walls, forming the basis for fixing the canvas.

• We need plywood to form the base of the lower levels. If the installation of a straight box is carried out, then its thickness should be at least 15 mm, but if we are talking about curved structures, then you can take 4-5 mm for homemade base production for subsequent bending and layer-by-layer reinforcement, but this option is an extreme case, which we will discuss in detail below.

• Strong and even corners made of galvanized steel - they are used to fasten the plywood or plastic base to the load-bearing floor.

• The divider is located in the inner corners of multi-level structures, allowing you to connect different canvases in one line. It is mounted on plywood, if desired, it can be replaced with a universal profile along with a wall one.
• The bumper is mounted on the bottom edge of the plywood and forms the front edge of the outer corner of the lower level of the structure. In other words, the tension of the web passes through it.

• The mouthpiece is a plastic nozzle that is worn over the lower edge of the bumper to protect the blade from contact with possible burrs on the metal or cut plastic profile, as well as to make the bend at the corner smoother and more beautiful.

From consumables you will need: plastic dowels, wood screws of the appropriate length, reinforced tape, thermal rings and glue for them (for example, "Cosmofen"), metal direct suspensions and, of course, a good mood - do not waste it !!!

Installing the frame

Well, we have learned, without which it makes no sense to start work. Now let's take a closer look at everything.

Markup

Let's start with a simpler option, when it is supposed to make a straight box.

First, we need to define the boundaries of the future structure. We need a laser level, pencil and tape measure.

• First of all, we negotiate with the customer the dimensions of the future design and draw up a small drawing on paper - better to scale.
• We mark the ceiling - for this we set aside the distance from the wall on a tape measure, 2 centimeters less than the agreed one. This is done in order to take into account the thickness of the bumper and separator. If marking is performed for a curvilinear structure, we make a margin of 3 centimeters in order to also take into account the thickness of the plastic.

• Further, using the drawn marks, using a dye thread, we beat off straight lines, forming a contour along which we will perform the installation of our frame.

• Next, the lower boundary of the ceiling is determined. If, according to the project, the smallest distance to the overlap is clearly defined, then first you need to find the lowest point on the overlap - most often this is one of the corners in the room.
• We install the laser axial plotter, and along the lines drawn by it we put down marks in the corners of the room.
• We measure the distance from them to the ceiling, finding the smallest value that needs to be compared with the design height. If it is less, then we put the resulting difference down from the marks using the tape measure.
• If you need to check the entire surface of the ceiling, for example, you have a strict reference to the height or wiring, then fixing the level under the ceiling, we methodically walk along the entire ceiling, applying a tape measure - the laser will show you all the differences, intersecting with it.

• After these simple manipulations, we draw lines with a dye thread - we stretch it and beat it off, not forgetting to pour the dye into the body of the device before unwinding.

With the markup of curved structures, things are a little more complicated. They can be roughly divided into two types: regular and irregular.

The former include figures that can be drawn with a compass, for example, a drawing consisting of circles or an ellipse. The latter can have an arbitrary shape with small waves and non-standard bends.

How long should the compasses be, you ask. Yes, in fact, it doesn't matter, we will assemble it ourselves for specific needs. To do this, you will need an aluminum profile (although any other metal one will do), a sharpened pencil, a pair of self-tapping screws and one dowel screw.

• We take a profile and drill a hole in it equal to the diameter of a simple pencil. Then we install the pencil itself into it.
• Having retreated from this hole the required distance (radius), we drill the second hole, which will correspond to the central axis of the circle.

Advice! If it suddenly turns out that the length of one profile is not enough, then connect two pieces in length using self-tapping screws.

• We drill a hole in the ceiling in the center of the future circle and attach the profile to it through a dowel screw.

The compass is ready - you can use it to draw a perfectly even circle.

If it is necessary to apply a non-standard pattern to the ceiling, it is most convenient to proceed as follows:

• For a more accurate orientation, it is worth initially marking not the ceiling, but the floor.
• At the control points, we glue pieces of masking tape, and mark them with a pencil. If necessary, the tape can be easily removed or moved.
• The more points you apply, the more accurate the outline you will get.

• Next, we take a laser level and set it to the center of the cross, one by one, along all the points drawn earlier. As you might guess, the tool will project a second cross of the same kind on the ceiling, in the center of which we make a mark.
• If you have a simple level that cannot build a cross, then it's okay - we set it perpendicular to the wall and measure the distance from the bottom point to the wall, after which we put it off at the top along the laser line.

• Next, we take a wall-mounted plastic baguette and bend it along the resulting control points. Make sure that there are no strong kinks and obvious violations of the geometry.
• With a pencil, draw a contour along a curved profile. We do this first, slightly pressing down on the pencil to be able to make adjustments.

• Check the accuracy of the line, making changes if necessary, and make the finishing line thicker already.

This completes the marking, and you can move on.

Assembling the frame

The straight frame is the easiest to install, so let's start with that.

• After completing all the markings, you can accurately determine the height of the plywood blanks, from which the frame, in fact, is assembled. It is important to remember two points here: the lower edge of the plywood during installation should not reach the level of the box by 0.5 centimeters; plywood should not rest against the ceiling.
• If you have the opportunity to do all the calculations in one day, then you can deliver the plywood to the facility in an already sawn form. Such services are provided by large construction centers upon purchase, such as Leroy Merlin. If this is not possible, or sellers in stores in your city have their hair on end from such questions, then you will have to use a jigsaw, cutting everything out yourself.

• When determining the width of plywood, it is worth considering many nuances, some of which we have already named. The base ceiling very often has elevation differences at the joints of reinforced concrete slabs or wiring is stretched along it.
• Some of this can be taken into account immediately during sawing, making different heights of plywood, but much is much more convenient to bring, as they say, in place, for example, to cut off a corner of plywood resting on a bump or make a recess for an electric cable.

Getting started with the installation:

• Apply a piece of plywood along the line on the ceiling.
• We put a steel corner on the edge, setting it so that the next workpiece can be screwed to it. It should be remembered that the distance from the edge of the frame to the wall should be 3 centimeters, which is required for further installation of the wall profile and corners.
• We make a mark with a marker or pencil on the ceiling.

• Next, we drill into the ceiling and attach the corner to the dowel, screwing several screws into it at once for greater strength. Add a couple more dowels by drilling straight through the perforation.
• Add several corners to the fixed sheet in the center so that the step between them is 70-80 centimeters - with the current thickness of the plywood sheet, this is more than enough.
• We attach ourselves to the corners with self-tapping screws for wood, simultaneously adjusting the position of the edge of the frame along the markings and placing it vertically, for which plastic linings of different thicknesses are made in the right places. The lower edge is adjusted according to the laser level, previously set at half a centimeter above the initial level.

At this stage, it is worth paying special attention to the evenness of the frame, since the appearance of the finished ceiling will depend entirely on this. If necessary, increase the number of corners - ideally, the front wall of the plywood should be flush with the vertical level.

Finally, check the reliability of the frame for loosening and reinforce the structure with all kinds of stops and braces.

We turn to the analysis of the installation of the curved frame. As you remember, we wrote earlier that its markup requires an indent of not 2, but 3 centimeters. Now you will understand why.

• For the installation of a curved frame, it is best to use sheet foamed plastic, which can be purchased at hardware stores, from the manufacturer, or from some stretch ceiling dealers. Its thickness is 8-10 millimeters - we choose based on the steepness of the radius of the performed figure (thin less durable, but bends much better).

Advice! We do not recommend using MDF panels, plywood, hardboard, chipboard and other analogues for these purposes, since you will not save much on the cost of the structure, but the final strength will become much worse. Moreover, it is much more difficult to bend these materials.

• So, in order to make the bends and turns of the box as smooth as possible, we suggest this method. Instead of metal corners, which sometimes can be set exactly, only an experienced craftsman can do, we will use a guide made of a metal PNP profile, which is usually used for.
• Why such difficulties, you ask? But after seeing the result as a result, it will become clear to you that we have simplified the task for ourselves, while making the contours of the levels perfectly even, which is very difficult to achieve when working with corners.
• By the way, precisely because a plastic panel is attached to the guide, set along the drawn lines, and such an indent was needed. As a result, we reach the required 2 centimeters.
• First, we check the base for evenness. In the example shown in the photographs presented, the reinforced concrete slabs were steeply sloped to ensure proper drainage of water from the roof during rains.

• First of all, we take the profile and cut its lateral edges in steps of 5-6 centimeters (the smaller, the more accurately it will turn out to be exposed). You can use metal scissors for cutting, but the work will go much faster with a grinder.
• Next, we fasten it according to our markup, having previously bend the lower edges down so that they do not interfere with the work.

• Usually, the installation is carried out directly to the concrete floor, but since we have already mentioned the significant bias, the craftsmen had to pre-level the plane using a simple structure made of plywood and a bar of the required thickness.
• So that the profile does not lead, we fix it step by step, starting from one side and moving to the opposite. In this case, the fixation step should not exceed 10 centimeters. This recommendation applies to a high-quality, rigid profile, for example, from the Knauf company. Try not to take thinner options, but if there is no way out, then increase the step of the fasteners.
• We carefully make sure that the edge of the profile goes exactly according to the markings, since the evenness of the finished ceiling will depend on this. If somewhere it does not become exactly, then you can knock it out with a hammer in this place, and install an additional self-tapping screw.

• Next, we cut the plastic. Pay special attention to the accuracy of cutting, as it depends on how accurately we catch the level when attaching it. Use rigid aluminum profile guides and a sharp cutting knife for cutting.

• Then we begin to attach the plastic to the guide. This is done using self-tapping screws for metal with a small step, while you need to constantly level the lower edge according to the level that the same laser level will kindly draw to us. It is for this reason that two people need to do this work - one twists, the other holds, focusing on the line.
• The requirements for the width of the plastic are exactly the same as those that we took into account when cutting plywood for a straight structure.

Additionally, fasten the joints of the plastic sheets using a tire from the same profile.

Installing a profile

We have finished with the frame, proceed to installing all the profiles.

• We start by installing a wall profile for the upper level - the markup is already ready for us. We fix it along the ready-made holes in the baguette with a step of 12-15 centimeters using dowel screws.
• On a curved frame, we use self-tapping screws for metal, but already of greater length (35 mm). If the profile is not securely fixed, due to its fragility, we reduce the fastening step by 2 times, while there is no need to drill it first.
• We monitor the level, and the work will turn out accurate.
• Next, we prepare an aluminum bump stop - it is stronger and will not deform as a result of the tension of the blade.

• Its bottom edge is cut using a side saw with a special disc for aluminum. The distance between the cuts directly depends on the bending radius.

Attention! This work can be done with the help of a grinder, but due to the peculiarity of the metal, nodules and burrs form on the sawn edges, which can ruin the canvas, therefore, these edges are sanded with the same grinder. The process will take much longer, so if you are constantly installing multi-level ceilings, buy a trimmer, which will also come in handy for other complex work.

• Next, we drill holes 4 mm in diameter on the remaining intact face, through which we then attach the profile to the lower edge of our frame using self-tapping screws "bugs", not forgetting to check the level.

• When installing the bump stop, do not forget that the mouthpiece will be worn on top, and this is another 1.5-2 millimeters in height.

Final work

The next step will be the installation of the upper level of the ceiling.

We will not go into the details of the process, since everything is extremely clear to any installer: we hang the canvas on the clamps, warm it up with a heat gun, fill first the corners, then the centers of the sides and finally go through the remaining parts evenly, not forgetting to maintain the operating temperature of the ceiling at a given level (60 ° C).

• Next, we proceed to the installation of a universal profile, which will ensure the abutment of the lower level to the already tensioned surface.

• Pay attention to the diagram above, how the universal profile is located. Its mounting platform should fit snugly against the frame, while the upper point touches the stretch ceiling. Only in this way the joint will be tight and invisible.
• In this case, too tight pressing on the upper level should not be allowed, as this can lead to deformations, and as a result, the formation of gaps between the insert and the ceiling.

• Before installing on curved sections, the profile is sawn, similar to a bump stop, but since we use plastic here, a grinder is enough.

• Next, we fix the profile under the ceiling according to the already indicated scheme. Do not forget to leave a gap of 1 centimeter when approaching the wall, so that there is room for installing the corner from the profile.
• The next step is to make and install the corners from the wall plastic profile.

• We saw down angles at 45 degrees using a trimmer or grinder, having previously completed accurate marking using a carpenter's square.
• Then we take super glue and glue the parts together - everything is simple.
• After gluing, do not forget to check the evenness of the corner with a square. After that, the workpiece needs to be shortened, for which we put on a piece of the mouthpiece near the wall and measure the distance from the stretched level. Move it to the corner and cut off the excess.

• We process the sharp corners of our workpiece with emery paper so as not to damage the film during tension.
• We drill the mounting holes in it, and the part is ready for installation.

• We install the corners in place, precisely matching the edges with the profiles and the bump stop with the wearing mouthpiece. At the end, we additionally strengthen the structure with self-tapping screws so that it does not "walk" when stretched.

The next step is to install the mouthpiece along the entire length of the lower edge of the bumper. For high-quality joints, it is recommended to process the edges of this part with a grinder. After that, we put it in place, tapping with a spatula handle or something similar for a tight connection.

Now it remains to glue all the joints and corners with reinforced tape. It is convenient to work with it, as it is quite durable and elastic.

Such a measure will protect the film from contact with possible burrs. It is important to tuck the edges of the tape into the mounting grooves of the profile with a spatula so that it does not interfere during installation.

Stretching the blade to the lower level

So, our structure is ready, all the mortgages are mounted and the joints are glued. We begin to stretch the canvas.

If the ceiling is glossy, then do not forget to preheat it very well. We stop heating only when the canvas begins to tremble from a stream of hot air, like jelly.

This procedure is called glossing. If it is made with high quality, then in the end the ceiling will be much more beautiful (have a more pronounced shine), but do not forget that the quality of the canvas also affects this.

The tensioning procedure itself is not complicated. Everything is as usual, the main thing is that all corners are well processed.

After the canvas is installed, it remains to mount the decorative plug. We cut the corner joints at 45 degrees - if cracks are visible there, then we coat them with white sealant or silicone.

That's all! The ceiling is ready and can be handed over to your favorite customer for acceptance. Installation of a two-level stretch ceiling video - will help you understand the topic even better. We hope the material was informative and useful for you. Good luck!

Stretch ceilings appeared several years ago and since then simple white plaster ceilings are gradually disappearing into oblivion.

Stretch ceilings are single-level, two-level or multi-level.

A two-level stretch ceiling is a non-standard and original solution for any interior.

Installation of two-level stretch ceilings is carried out in several stages and can be made of plasterboard, followed by painting, or from PVC film.

The frame of two-level ceilings is assembled from profiles and a guide baguette.

Installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling is a rather lengthy and laborious process. Another thing is a stretch ceiling made of PVC film.

Such a ceiling can be completely installed with your own hands, and most importantly, the material for them has a huge variety of textures and colors, which allows you to implement any design idea.

For example, using a stretch two-level ceiling, you can visually divide the room into different functional groups or highlight any significant interior elements by repeating their shape and color on the stretch ceiling.

Installation of two-level stretch ceilings can be done in several ways.

The first method involves fixing structures made according to a certain configuration on the ceiling. Then stretch the film between the structures.

The second method is a little simpler: a special baguette is installed and fastened to the ceiling, onto which the stretch ceiling canvas is subsequently stretched.

The second method is much better than the first one, since plasterboard structures “eat up” a lot of space, which does not allow them to be installed in apartments or houses with low ceilings.

A stretch ceiling, correctly selected in color, texture and configuration, can not only visually increase the height of the room, but also mask all defects and flaws in the main ceiling, hide all kinds of communications, ventilation shafts, etc.

Therefore, it is best to entrust the installation of a stretch ceiling to professionals. Experts will competently and quickly make all the necessary measurements, draw up a sketch, cut the canvas and fix it on the baguette.

Despite some complexity of installation and manufacturing technology, a two-level stretch ceiling in some cases is simply irreplaceable in terms of its practical and aesthetic qualities.

If you choose the right lighting, play of light and color shades, then such a ceiling will become simply a unique work of art.

Lighting and decoration

Lighting devices that are competently built between the levels of the ceiling allow you to visually make a small room bright and spacious, or, on the contrary, divide a huge room into several cozy zones.

There are quite a few design options for stretch two-level ceilings.

When decorating, you can combine the colors and texture of the material, complement the ceiling design with lighting fixtures, use a combination of matte and glossy ceilings, etc.

Usually, the installation of a two-level ceiling takes a little time, maximum - 2 days, provided that the work will be performed by qualified installers from the same company where the stretch ceiling was purchased.

If desired, the installation of a stretch ceiling can be done by hand. From the name of the ceiling it is clear that it is formed of two levels and looks like steps.

Installation of such a ceiling takes place in several stages. First of all, measurements are taken and a drawing is drawn up. Then, according to these measurements, the ceiling is cut out. This is most often done in a factory.

After the manufacture of all parts of the ceiling, a metal frame is installed. The ceiling sheet is stretched and attached to the frame with the help of harpoons or wedges.

Before installing the stretch ceiling, make sure that all the conclusions for the lighting are made on the ceiling, and that the electrical wires are securely fixed with special clamps.

The cost of installing a two-level ceiling depends on the selected material, the complexity of the stretch ceiling design and the design method and can be quite high

Ceiling shapes are different: wave, cone, starry sky, arch, etc.

Three-dimensional photographs, 3 D drawings or any other images can be placed on the surface of a two-level ceiling.

Installation technology

If you decide to independently carry out the installation of a stretch two-level ceiling or entrust this business to other performers, then know that in this case, the company where you purchased it will not be responsible for the quality of the installation of the film.

The installation technology of two-level stretch ceilings must be accurately and consistently followed by the installers, otherwise it will be necessary to strengthen the frame, or even completely redo everything.

In order for the blade tension to be perfectly even, every detail must be perfectly fitted.

Required tools

So, for self-installation of a two-level ceiling, you will need some tools and equipment:

• screwdriver and hammer drill;
• heat gun with a gas cylinder;
• stepladder;
• level;
• special spatulas and shovels for stretching and fastening the canvas.

A punch is needed to attach the guide profiles to the walls, and a heat gun is needed to warm up the web before tensioning.

When installing two-level stretch ceilings with your own hands, remember the most difficult moments of this process, which include taking measurements, cutting the ceiling sheet and working with a gas cylinder.

Taking measurements is of particular importance, since if you take measurements incorrectly, you can end up with an uneven surface.

You should also be careful and careful when cutting the web and working with the heat gun.

The installation process begins with measurements and drawing up a sketch of the future ceiling.

They measure the perimeter and diagonal of the room, calculate the total area, take into account the proposed installation locations of the lamps, that is, take into account all the details.

The drawn up sketch is transferred to the workshop for the manufacture of a stretch ceiling panel.

To fasten the tensioning fabric to the walls, a special baguette profile is installed.

To do this, determine the exact line along which the baguette will pass and fix the mounting profile at its level.

If a standard lighting fixture is installed on the ceiling, for example, a chandelier, then a distance of 4-6 cm is usually left from the main ceiling to the stretch ceiling. The baguette profile is firmly fixed with the "dowel-nail" system.

Such fasteners are able to reliably hold the stretch ceiling fabric for many years.

After installing the baguette, conducting wiring and fixing all kinds of structures for lamps or lighting fixtures, the installation of the canvas begins.

The canvas is stretched over the baguette using corner hangers. Next, a heat gun is launched, which heats the ceiling fabric to 70 degrees.

Now the heated canvas is fixed in the profile with the help of special spatulas or paddles.
Already in the stretched canvas, holes are cut for lighting fixtures.

The canvas is attached to the installed lamps with special latches. Installation of cornices completes the installation of two-level ceilings.