Assembling legs for an acrylic bathtub. Self-installation of the bath

They insist: installing an acrylic bathtub is the highest quality and affordable option among those offered on the market. But what to do if a store consultant proves the opposite? And partly he will be right: durable cast iron bath literally his appearance inspires more confidence. Let's figure out why an acrylic bathtub is better than a cast iron one, and what you should expect after purchasing it.

Installing an acrylic bathtub: instructions for dummies

Advantages of an acrylic bath:

• external attractiveness of the product. Acrylic is a polymer that does not lose color or shape over time and can withstand considerable loads;
• smooth, perfectly white, durable surface, which can be restored in case of mechanical damage;
• retain heat perfectly;
• relatively light weight;
• low cost;
• simple installation method.

Among the disadvantages:

• cannot be compared with cast iron in terms of service life;
• such a bathtub must be installed on a frame (installation diagram and detailed instructions attached to the product); in rare cases, installation is carried out on bricks (on the advice of folk craftsmen who encourage saving).

IMPORTANT! The technology for assembling the frame is not very complicated if you have all the components at hand and step by step description progress of work.

IMPORTANT! If for some reason step-by-step instructions were not included with the product, they can be found on the manufacturer’s website. Such trade marks, like RAVAK or CERSANIT, publish diagrams, drawings and descriptions in the appropriate sections on their websites.

When choosing a model, pay attention to the thickness of the polymer sheet. They are made by combining several layers of polymer, so the final coating thickness must be at least 6 mm. The layers of material can be seen by examining the side of the bathtub up close.

How to choose a high-quality acrylic bathtub?

There are 3 tests to determine a fake:

• You need to knock on the side of the bathroom. If the sound is dull, this is the original.
• It shouldn't enlighten. If you apply a flashlight to the side and an illuminated spot appears, the manufacturer has saved on the material - it is better to refuse the purchase.
• A high-quality model should not emit a strong chemical odor.

In the standard package, nothing is included except instructions. In the extended version, in addition to the legs for the bathtub (which are installed on a special encircling stand) and fittings for installing a mixer, drain/overflow, there may be a decorative screen and profiles for its installation.

Installing acrylic liners in a bathtub

Acrylic allows you to cheat a little during installation and instead of the dusty, troublesome dismantling of the old bathtub, you can apply a fresh acrylic coating to the old base. This way you can reduce not only the bathroom renovation budget by an order of magnitude, but also save time. Installing such a liner will take several hours and will cost an average of $300 (manufacture and installation of the liner in a 1.5 m bath).

IMPORTANT! Focus on quality standards from SENOPLAST (Austria): the company’s more than 30 years of experience and the scale of annual production allow us to speak of it as an exemplary manufacturer.

Bath installation

Scheme 2 - Construction of an acrylic bathtub

In Diagram 2:

1. mixer;
2. the junction of the bathtub to the wall is coated silicone sealant;
3. pad;
4. fastening nut;
5. overflow pipe;
6. eyeliner;
7. cold water supply pipe;
8. siphon;
9. hot water supply pipe;
10. shut-off valve;
11. drain:
12. adjustable legs;
13. decorative panel;
14. support frame;
15. edge.

Step 1 - All Finishing work must be completed before installing the bathtub

Installation of legs on a bathtub

We install the legs on the bathtub. Following the instructions of the factory instructions, we mark the locations of the fasteners.

IMPORTANT! An acrylic bathtub is not drilled through: the holes are deepened a few millimeters, trying not to damage the inner layer. At this stage it is convenient to work with a drill stop.

Connecting the frame guides and bath legs

Step 3 - Fastenings for installation

The holes are ready and now you can start screwing the frame guides, and then the legs.

Checking by level: marking the joints

Step 4 - Attaching the bathtub to the frame

The structure is placed on legs and the installation is checked by level. Some frames are equipped with a special height adjustment system, but if these are not included in the kit, you can use a backing made of strong materials(for example, a brick chip or in the form of a nail hammered under the leg). After an approximate level installation, the junction of the bathtub and the walls is marked with a marker, and the bathtub is temporarily set aside. For greater convenience, you can use a laser level.

Installing Mounting Hooks

The marks on the walls are also checked with a level, after which you can step back the width of the side and install mounting hooks. They will prevent the bathtub from deforming and secure it in the chosen position.

Bathtub installation and fastening

Step 5 - Example of a fixed bathtub

Now the bathtub can be installed in place and finally secured.

Screen installation

Step 6 - The structure must be leveled using building level. To do this, you need to raise or lower the adjusting wheels on the frame where the bath is installed

The final stage is the installation of a screen covering the bathroom mounting structures and water pipes.

Siphon installation

The siphon is installed in three stages: the upper drain holes are connected, followed by the lower ones, after which you can begin assembling the siphon.

Step 7 - After installing the acrylic bathtub, you need to install a siphon and a corrugated tube to drain water into the sewer

Connecting an acrylic bathtub to communications is carried out according to the same principle as connecting a cast-iron bathtub to the system.

Step 8 - Finish the bathtub Step 9 - This is what an installed acrylic bathtub looks like

1. For connections, it is better to use rigid pipes rather than corrugated ones. Due to the fact that the corrugation has greater hydraulic resistance, the pipes quickly become clogged and are difficult to clean.
2. During installation, you must have constant access to the siphon: from time to time it needs, if not replacement, then thorough cleaning. When installing, so as not to inadvertently break the thread of the siphon, do not use a tool - hand strength will be enough to tighten it.
3. After connection, all joints and connections are treated with sealant.

One of the most important stages installation - connecting the bath to the water supply. The main thing here is to connect the drain with arcs made of heat-resistant plastic. You can also use flexible hoses for this, stretching them to the nearest drain pipe.

In Diagram 3:

1. bath;
2. tide;
3. the wire;
4. overflow;
5. clamp with bolt;
6. water pipes;
7. bath release.

Installing a corner bath

Installation of the corner model − a good option For small rooms. If you do not plan to demolish the old wall covering in the bathroom, before purchasing a corner acrylic bathtub, make sure that the installation location is at a right angle. Otherwise, you will have to carry out additional plastering work by aligning the wall strictly at 90°.

IMPORTANT! Installation of the corner model should be done after finishing walls and floor.

Install corner bath It can also be used on a metal frame or on bricks.

Installation of an acrylic bathtub: prices for installation services and popular models

The cost of installation work will largely depend on the type of installation, as well as the cost of components and materials for implementing a particular method.

An acrylic bathtub can be installed:

1. on legs or frame frame. Due to the quality of the components and the installation system thought out by the manufacturer, installation this way will not take much time and will be considered the most reliable method;
2. on a timber frame. This method is used if the legs or metal frame were not included. Wood frame - not The best decision, the long-term integrity of which no sane master will undertake to guarantee;
3. on a brick frame. This method is also called combined: it involves the use of both factory legs and brick stands.

On average, such work will take:

• Kyiv - from 350 UAH;
• Moscow - from 1,700 rubles.

When carrying out renovations in the bathroom and self-replacement plumbing, such a problem as the correct installation of the font necessarily arises, since such aspects as comfort during installation depend on how well this operation is performed water procedures and service life of the entire structure. Correct installation of an acrylic bathtub with your own hands consists of a precise sequence of actions, which include assembling the structure itself, preparing the site for installation, and the installation itself. In this article we will look at options on how to properly install an acrylic bathtub.

One of the main positive qualities of such structures, what makes them stand out against the background of outdated metal models is their low weight, this quality makes it possible to carry out installation independently acrylic bathtubs without resorting to the help of professionals. Installation of an acrylic bathtub difficult process, since this material is very sensitive to mechanical damage from sharp or heavy objects. Also, you should not delay installation for a long time due to the fact that a bathtub made of this material has one unpleasant property: during improper or long-term storage it can change its original shape.

Preparatory work and installation options for an acrylic bathtub

Before installing an acrylic bathtub with your own hands, you need to prepare the place and the bathtub itself for installation, remove all unnecessary items from the bathroom, dismantle old equipment, and prepare the necessary tools and materials for installation work. You will need:

• bath;
• legs or frame on which the bowl will be attached;
• hammer;
• Bulgarian;
• perforator;
• mounting sealant;
• level;
• adjustable wrench;
• insulating tape;
• mounting tape (construction tape);
• corrugated pipe;
• spare parts for attaching an acrylic bathtub to a wall or floor.

Before installing a new acrylic bathtub, you need to do some preparatory work:

• first turn off the water supply to the central tap;
• then dismantle the old bathtub;
• then crack or cut out the old drain;
• clean the sewer hole;
• insert a new corrugated pipe into the sewer socket;
• coat the joint between the corrugation and the sewer hole with sealant;
• level the floor for an acrylic bathtub.

Now you can proceed directly to installing new plumbing.

Installation of a new acrylic bathtub is carried out using one of the following methods:

• on a metal frame;
• on the supporting legs;
• on brick supports;
• on a brick podium;
• combined installation method.

Rules and instructions for installing acrylic plumbing products allow any of the specified methods to attach the bathtub to the wall or floor, based on its type and model. So, if the kit includes a metal frame, then it is better to install the font on it, using the included instructions. And if special legs are sold along with the bathtub, then the acrylic bathtub must be installed on the legs, since such a support is designed specifically for this model, taking into account the areas of greatest stress.

Let's take a closer look at how to fix an acrylic bathtub using each of the 5 listed methods.

Installing an acrylic bathtub on supporting legs

This is the fastest and easiest installation method that does not require a set of tools or special skills. Assembling a bathtub with legs is easy if you use the instructions that come with the product. If, according to the instructions or during installation work, it becomes necessary to drill the font, then this should be done with a wood drill at low speeds. Mounting on the support legs consists of screwing the legs to the bowl and adjusting them in place.

1. Screwing the legs. On the lower part of the bathtub body there are special seats, marked with stickers or corresponding symbols. To make it easier to assemble an acrylic bathtub yourself, some manufacturers supply products with pre-drilled holes. And if they are not there, then you need to make these holes yourself. Then the legs are screwed into these holes, otherwise the load will not be distributed evenly and the bath will quickly fail.
2. Adjusting the support. The design of almost all bathtub legs provides the ability to adjust the height of the support in order to attach the bowl with the desired slope using a level. First, the bathtub is installed against the wall, and then the legs are tightened, setting the desired height. After this, they begin horizontal leveling when the level is installed on the side of the bath in a horizontal position. If necessary, the legs can be tightened up or down using a wrench.

When the optimal performance is established, the legs are fixed with nuts in the desired position. Sometimes, for greater reliability, the bathtub is screwed to the wall with special plastic or metal hooks, which are previously mounted strictly horizontally along the entire perimeter of the bathtub into the wall at the same distance from each other. The hooks are screwed into the wall cladding.

Installation on a metal frame

Most reliable way, relatively simple, the main thing is to strictly follow the instructions for assembling the product. In this case, the acrylic bathtub is installed as follows:

1. First of all, you need to assemble the frame according to the instructions using the long self-tapping screws that are included in the kit.
2. The product is turned on its side or upside down to make it convenient to secure the frame.
3. Then the frame is installed on the acrylic bathtub in the center of the bottom, and the legs are attached to the support.
4. Two supports are fixed to the frame in the central part, two more along the wall, and three supports along the outer edge of the font.
5. The legs are then adjusted to the same height so that the height of the bath does not exceed 65 cm for safety and ease of use.
6. After this, the product is turned over and checked with a building level to see if the bathtub is level.
7. Then the siphon and overflow are connected.
8. If necessary, the font is attached to the wall using hooks or metal corners.
9. Finally, a decorative screen is installed.

An installation option is also possible when the frame on legs is mounted directly on the floor, and then the bathtub is mounted on top of the fixed frame. Most often, the installed frame does not require additional fastenings, but if it seems unreliable to you, you can strengthen it with additional fastening hooks, which were mentioned above.

How to install a bathtub on brick supports?

If a metal frame is not available, the installation of an acrylic bathtub is done on a brick podium. This method is not economical, despite the fact that the design is particularly durable, due to the fact that it requires great amount bricks Moreover, an excessive load is created on the floors, due to the rather large weight of the finished podium. To reduce the cost of construction, as well as to reduce the load on the floor, it is recommended to install an acrylic bathtub on brick pillars. To create such a structure, you can get by with a small amount of mortar and 12 bricks.

Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Without removing the protective film, the bathtub is brought into the room and installed at the site of future installation, after which the location of the columns is marked.
2. According to the length of the bathtub, mark where 2-3 columns will be located, where one is located in the middle of the bottom, and the other two are at the edges of the bend of the bathtub.
3. After taking out the bathtub, begin laying out columns 17-19 cm long so that the height of the bathtub above the floor level is no more than 60-65 cm.
4. Allow the masonry to dry for 12-24 hours, after which a siphon is connected to the bathtub and pushed tightly against the wall and installed on previously made posts.
5. Using silicone sealant, fill the gap between the posts and the bottom of the container.
6. Using metal hooks and corners, the edges of the bathtub are attached to the wall.

Experienced specialists recommend that before installation, apply to the bottom surface of the acrylic bathtub. polyurethane foam, this little trick will reduce the thermal conductivity and resonating ability of the material. Also, the use of polyurethane foam during installation reduces the likelihood of damage to the bottom of the acrylic bathtub by brick supports.

Installation method on a brick podium

If there are no metal supports for a particular model, installation is done on a brick podium. According to experts, this method is in no way inferior in terms of reliability to the previous option; the only way it differs is that this method requires more time and is somewhat “dirtier” than the previous option. Installation of an acrylic bathtub on a podium is done using a saw, polyurethane foam, bricks, mortar and moisture-resistant plywood.

Installation is done following the following technology:

1. The bathtub is temporarily placed in place, but the protective film should not be removed from it, after which the place where the drain hole will be located is marked. This operation is necessary in order to leave a gap in the podium for connecting the drain.
2. Under the entire supporting part, using a solution, make brickwork to such a height that the sides are at a height of 60 cm relative to the floor level. You also need to take into account that there will still be 2-3 cm of polyurethane foam between the masonry and the bathtub.
3. A frame cut from moisture-resistant plywood is assembled around the brick podium. It should be taken into account that the height of the plywood should be higher than the podium by the thickness of the polyurethane foam layer.
4. We evenly fill the brick podium with one layer of polyurethane foam, after which this layer is covered with a sheet of moisture-resistant plywood of the appropriate size.
5. The bathtub is turned over, mounted on a podium, after which, using a building level, they check how level the bathtub is placed.
6. The bathtub is filled halfway, closing the drain; this is done to allow the foam to harden evenly. The drying period of the foam is 12-24 hours.
7. The bathtub is connected to a drain with an overflow, mounted on a podium and attached to 3 walls using hooks and a metal corner.

Worth considering! Nowadays, acrylic bathtubs have a sloping bottom, which speeds up the flow of water into the drain, so during installation there is no need to install the bathtub on a slope.

The most famous method of attaching acrylic bathtubs is a combined method, when installation is carried out on a metal frame made of aluminum profile, and in order to prevent the bottom from sagging and deforming, ordinary bricks are used. In order to build such a structure you will need:

• bricks that will support the bottom of the font;
• for the manufacture of a supporting structure you will need a metal or aluminum profile;
• in order to secure the brickwork you will need cement mortar;
• It is recommended to use sealant to seal the seams;
• Self-tapping screws will help to assemble the frame;
• To stir the cement mortar, use a special container and a trowel.

Worth remembering! When working with sharp and heavy objects, you should be careful, as an accidentally dropped tool can easily make a hole in the bathroom, thereby damaging the product. It is better to take precautions in advance by covering the font with thick paper or thick film.

In order to correctly install an acrylic bathtub on the wall, you need to note what its future height will be, based on which we will form the height of the brickwork. We take a measurement from the floor to the indicated line, from the results obtained we subtract the height of the bathtub itself, and what we get will be the thickness of the brick lining on which the bathtub will be mounted.

It is recommended to begin installing an acrylic bathtub to the wall by mounting a metal profile, which will subsequently serve as a support for the bathtub. Then, along the lower level of part of the edge of the bathtub, you need to install a metal profile using dowels along the entire perimeter where the bathtub will come into contact with the wall. It is on this that the sides of the bathtub will rest. Next, before installing the acrylic bathtub, we make a brick cushion along the bottom of the bathtub of the required height.

Need to know! Before fixing acrylic bathtubs in this way, everything must be calculated so that during installation the bathtub will exactly lie on its sides on the previously installed profile, and the bottom will lightly touch the brickwork along it. Attaching to the wall in this situation is done using a sealant, which is applied to the profile and at the same time acts as a seal preventing water leakage.

Thus, the manufacture of the frame can be considered complete, but it is possible to create a front protective screen from the same metal profile. This screen will make it possible to hide the internal part and will be able to provide additional protection for the outer side, and will also make it possible to make a special hatch for repair and maintenance of the siphon. You learned how to properly install an acrylic bathtub on a frame made by yourself.

When carrying out repairs and replacement of plumbing fixtures with your own hands, the question inevitably arises: correct installation bathtub, since not only comfort during bathing, but also the service life of the product depends on the quality of this operation. Installation of an acrylic bathtub consists of: correct sequence actions that include assembling the product, preparing the installation site and installation itself. In this article we will discuss options for installing an acrylic font and attach video material that will clearly demonstrate the main processes.

Installation plastic bath this is not a simple matter, since acrylic itself is a sensitive material and can be easily damaged by a sharp or heavy object. Also, the installation process itself should not be delayed, since the bathtub, if stored incorrectly or for a very long time, can change its original shape. Today, the methods for installing acrylic bathtubs can be different, and if you do not have the time and desire to do this, then it is better to call professional workers who know all the intricacies of this process. But even if you call third-party specialists, you still want to know what processes the installation technology consists of in order to control the quality of work.

Installation options for acrylic bathtubs

So, before installing an acrylic bathtub, let's look at the most common installation methods that are used everywhere today. The main ways are:

• installation on support legs. This installation option is considered the simplest and fastest, since the font itself is already provided for this option, has legs included with the model, and also has detailed instructions, where the entire assembly process is clearly indicated;
• installation of an acrylic bathtub on a metal frame, which comes standard at the factory and is assembled before installation;
• installation of an acrylic bathtub on bricks. This option is used if the product does not have a factory frame and, in addition to a rigid base, it is necessary to raise the font to a certain height. This method provides solid foundation, which prevents deformation and increases service life;
• Another option is to fasten acrylic bathtubs using a combined method. This option combines several of the installation options listed above.

For your information. The rules for installing acrylic bathtubs allow each of the listed methods for certain types. For example, if the product comes with a special metal frame, then it is highly advisable to use it and not come up with anything extra, since this frame is designed specifically for this model, taking into account the areas of greatest stress. Here it is extremely important to install the acrylic bathtub according to the instructions, which must be included in the kit.

If the model does not have a factory frame, and instead only legs are provided or they are missing, then you can use homemade options. Later in the article we will look in detail at how to properly install an acrylic bathtub using the methods listed above.

Mounting on support feet

Installation on support legs is considered the simplest and fastest installation option, which does not require special skills or complex tools. The assembly of an acrylic bathtub with legs is carried out according to the attached instructions, which must be included with the product and consists of such steps as screwing the legs to the bathtub and adjusting them in place. During installation, additional holes may be required. Before drilling an acrylic bathtub, purchase a special wood drill bit and set the drill to low speed.

Screwing the legs to the bathtub

Before installing an acrylic bathtub on legs, you need to make sure that there are special seats on the lower part of the product body. They are very easy to identify, since they are clearly highlighted on the bottom surface of the product, and sometimes marked with special symbols or stickers. These places may already have drilled holes, so that the assembly of the acrylic bathtub goes quickly and without errors. In some cases, there are specially marked places where you will have to drill holes yourself.

It is important to remember that if there are pre-drilled holes in the font, then the support legs must be mounted in these places and it is not recommended to make any additional holes unless this is provided for in the instructions from the manufacturer.

Before drilling an acrylic bathtub in a place not intended for this, you need to take into account possible unpleasant consequences. Installing the legs in the wrong place can disrupt the load distribution when the bath is filled with water, which will lead to deformation and damage to the product. You also need to take into account that the font in finished form takes place high voltage material and drilling an acrylic bathtub in the wrong place can lead to cracking of the product even before installation.

If there are no holes, then you can drill a hole in the acrylic bathtub yourself; there should be signs on the body of the product special places, which can be seen by the characteristic thickening compared to the rest of the surface. There may also be special guide elements that intuitively tell you where the legs should be placed. If for some reason the included support legs are not suitable for you, then you can install an acrylic bathtub on bricks, which will be much stronger and will ensure even distribution of the load.

Adjusting the support legs

Almost all support legs have a design that allows you to adjust the height of each support and set the font strictly horizontally or with the desired slope; for this you will need a building level.

First, install the acrylic bathtub against the wall. Then there is a general adjustment of the product in height; for this, each leg has a thread cut on the rod, which allows you to unscrew or tighten it to achieve the desired height. Once the approximate height of the bathroom has been established, you can begin horizontal leveling. Correct installation of an acrylic bathtub can only be done using a level that is installed on the side of the product in a horizontal position. Next, using a wrench or manually, the level is adjusted to the desired value, then the legs are fixed in this position with specially provided nuts as shown in the photo above.

In some cases, for reliable fastening When connecting the bathtub to the wall, special hooks for an acrylic bathtub are used, which are screwed into the wall in advance. These fasteners can be metal or plastic and expensive models they usually come with the product. Fasteners are often used in models without a factory frame and their design allows you to secure the side of the bathtub adjacent to the wall.

Please note that the mounting hooks for an acrylic bathtub must be installed immediately before installing the bathtub itself on the tiled wall surface. In this case, it is important to mount them strictly horizontally at an equal distance from each other along the entire contour of the side adjacent to the wall. If an acrylic bathtub is installed under tiles, then the hooks are attached to the wall before the cladding, after which the laying of the tiles begins from the side of the bathtub in the upward direction.

Installation of a hot tub on a factory-made frame

The best and most reliable installation method is considered to be installing an acrylic bathtub on a factory frame, which must be made for a specific model and supplied with it. This option can be considered relatively simple, fast and reliable, not requiring special skills or tools. The most important thing is that before assembling an acrylic bathtub, carefully study the assembly instructions and make sure you have everything necessary components. We will not delve deeply into the study of this process, since detailed information is available in special documents for the product. In general, the assembly scheme for an acrylic bathtub consists of the following steps:

• the font is turned upside down and laid on the floor, you must first lay thick paper or fabric so as not to scratch the acrylic;
• then the frame is assembled and secured to the font;
• upon completion of assembly, the product is turned back over and the acrylic bathtub is strengthened in the place provided for it.

It is important that the assembly procedure can be performed in several ways depending on the model or manufacturer. There is an assembly option when the frame is assembled separately, and only then the acrylic bathtub is installed on the seats. In another option, load-bearing frame can be assembled directly on the bathtub.

In the vast majority of cases, if there is a factory-made supporting frame, then fastening the acrylic bathtub to the wall is not required. If the frame seems too weak to you or does not provide reliable protection of the bathtub from deformation, then you can provide additional fastening for the acrylic bathtub in the form of hooks, which we described above.

Installing a bathtub on a homemade frame

Very often there are situations when the purchased model does not have supporting legs or a factory frame. In this case, there is quite logical question How to install an acrylic bathtub in this case and what materials to use. In such cases, there are two options: buy a universal frame and somehow fit it to your model or create load-bearing structure with your own hands. Of course, a well-made individual frame will be much stronger than any factory one, but before you strengthen an acrylic bathtub in this way, you need to understand that this task will require a lot of time, effort and special skills.

The most common option is to mount acrylic bathtubs on a metal frame made of aluminum profile, and ordinary bricks are used to support the bottom. To build the structure you will need:

• bricks for lining under the bottom of the font;
• aluminum or metal profile for the construction of a supporting structure;
• cement mortar for fixing brickwork;
• sealant, which will be used to seal the seams;
• self-tapping screws for assembling the frame;
• trowel and container for mixing cement mortar.

It is important to remember that when working with heavy and sharp objects you need to be careful, since it is very easy to make a hole in an acrylic bathtub with an accidentally dropped tool and the product can be considered damaged. Take precautions and protect the hot tub with thick film or thick paper.

Before correctly placing an acrylic bathtub, it is necessary to mark its future height on the wall, based on which the height of the brick lining will be formed. Then we measure the distance from the floor to the indicated line and subtract the height of the font itself from the resulting figure, as a result we get required thickness brick lining on which the bathtub will be installed.

It is better to start installing an acrylic bathtub to the wall by installing a metal profile that will serve as a support for the font. Next, at the level of the lower part of the edge of the side of the bathtub, it is necessary to install a metal profile on dowels along the entire perimeter of the contact of the font with the wall. It is on this profile that the bathtub will rest with its sides. Then, before installing the acrylic bathtub, we install a brick pillow of the required height under the bottom of the product.

Important. Before fastening acrylic bathtubs using this method, all calculations must be made in such a way that when installing the font, its sides clearly lie on a pre-installed profile, and the bottom of the bathtub lightly touches the brickwork under its bottom. Fastening an acrylic bathtub to the wall in in this case is carried out using a sealant that is applied to the profile and at the same time serves as a seal against water leakage.

At this point, the creation of the frame can be considered complete, but you can make a protective front screen from the same metal profile in the front part. This screen will help close the insides and provide additional strength for the outer side, as well as create a hatch for Maintenance or siphon repair. Now you know how to properly install an acrylic bathtub on homemade frame, but the presence of empty space under the font will increase the noise from falling water and additional sound insulation will be required.

Sound insulation of acrylic models

You can often hear the question, do you need to foam an acrylic bathtub? If we are talking about simple models that do not have additional options in the form of a jacuzzi and are installed on their own frame with protective decorative screens, then of course it is possible to foam, and in our case it is even necessary, this will provide additional sound insulation. By the way, if the question arises of how to further strengthen an acrylic bathtub, then it is the foam that will give the product additional strength from the effects of deformation.

Cutting acrylic bathtubs

Very often there are situations when, when deciding how best to install an acrylic bathtub, due to inexperience, you can make significant errors in calculations, as a result of which the acrylic bathtub does not fit into the space allocated for it. If there is no decorative cladding on the walls of the room, then an acrylic bathtub is installed in a groove. To do this, a special groove is cut out in one of the walls of the room and one side of the font is inserted into it as shown in the figure above. This option compensates for shortcomings and plays the role of additional strengthening.

Is it possible to cut an acrylic bathtub if decorative cladding Already installed and there is no possibility or desire to redo it? Theoretically, it is possible, but this event must be approached as responsibly as possible. Before shortening an acrylic bathtub, make sure that this does not compromise its rigidity, since it is the curved edges of the sides that give the product additional resistance to deformation.

If the situation is hopeless, then you can cut off the side of the acrylic bathtub, but before that you need to take some steps to prevent cracking of the bathtub. To do this, go to any car store and buy a repair kit for plastic bumpers, which consists of fiberglass fabric and epoxy resin. This fiberglass is used to reinforce the area you are going to trim. For example, if you need to cut off 2 centimeters of the side of a bathtub, then starting from the third centimeter you need to apply fiberglass, cover it with resin and wait until it dries completely.

If this is not done, then when you want to saw off the acrylic bathtub, there may be tension in this area of ​​the product that will cause cracks to appear. Fiberglass will prevent this crack from going further and will stop the cracking.

Important. If you don’t know how to cut an acrylic bathtub, we recommend using a hacksaw or an electric jigsaw. For a jigsaw, purchase a small wood file. It is strictly forbidden to use a grinder with cutting discs, since this is a highly revolving tool and it will only melt acrylic.

Before cutting an acrylic bathtub, consider wearing personal protective equipment, as acrylic shavings will be hot during cutting and can cause burns if they come into contact with your hand.

From the material proposed in this article, you already know whether it is possible to cut acrylic bathtubs, what tool to use, and you also learned how to attach an acrylic bathtub in a bathroom in several ways. To reinforce the material, we suggest watching the video below.

The popularity of acrylic bathtubs varies over time. From their first appearance, they were in quite high demand among users, main reason This state was a successful advertising campaign for the manufacturers. But then users began to realize that the actual disadvantages were much greater than the advantages. Moreover, only bathtubs were sold; no special frames were included in the kit. The plumbers themselves solved the problems by increasing their stability, using various brick linings under the bottom, strengthening the sides with masonry, etc.

Now the strength of acrylic bathtubs has increased slightly due to metal frames. The frame increases mechanical stability, but greatly complicates the installation process. And it not only complicates, but also pushes forward Additional requirements to wall finishing materials.

Before buying a bathtub of this type and starting installation of equipment, it would be useful to find out the actual performance indicators of the product. What do manufacturers promise consumers and what really is?

Indicator of acrylic bathtubs	Actual Specifications
	Indeed, the thermal conductivity of acrylic is slightly lower than that of metal. But due to the small thickness of the walls, this advantage is actually neutralized. Heat transfer can be reduced by additionally foaming the reverse side with polyurethane foam. Exactly the same operation and with the same effect can be done for metal baths. The conclusion is that the advantage is insignificant.
	This is a myth; high-quality enamel used for metal bathtubs is superior in all respects acrylic coatings. There is another drawback - absolutely all polymers release chemical compounds into the air, and the amount of emissions especially increases with increasing temperature. Safety indicators are regulated by decisions of local regulatory authorities and, depending on their integrity, differ significantly from country to country. What is considered unacceptable in Europe is completely permitted at the official level in China, etc. Conclusion - there cannot be completely safe acrylic bathtubs in principle. As for color stability, innovative fillers only increase the resistance of acrylic to harsh ultraviolet rays, but cannot completely protect against their harmful effects.
	With great effort, bathtubs produce cracks that can be repaired. The work is quite complex, but accessible. This is true. It is also true that metal bathtubs do not suffer any damage at all from the same loads and, accordingly, there is no need to repair them. And recovery old enamel To eliminate natural wear and tear or mechanical damage, today all users can do it themselves.
	According to this indicator, acrylic bathtubs are inferior to absolutely all analogues. It is for their enhancement that metal frames are used. But they cannot completely insure products against critical deformations.
	This is true. The production technology is so simple that it makes it possible to give bathtubs various geometric shapes. Only one question arises - why, with simple technology and low cost, manufacturers set such a high price.

There is another very unpleasant feature of acrylic bathtubs. They can only be installed in rooms that have concrete base under the floor, and the walls are brick. It is not recommended to attach bathtubs to walls made of foam blocks and it is strictly forbidden to fix plumbing fixtures to walls made of moisture-resistant plasterboard boards. These conditions must be met without fail.

We will explain the reasons for such strict requirements in the installation instructions.

In order to increase the service life of an acrylic bathtub, you should not rush into purchasing. For acceptance optimal solution you need to pay attention to a number of factors.

1. Dimensions. It is desirable that the sides have an emphasis along the entire perimeter. This means that its length must exactly correspond to the size of the room. Three sides will be fixed to the walls, and the fourth to the metal frame. If this condition is not met, then deformation of the sides appears even under minor loads. As a result, water disappears into the gap between the wall and the bathtub.
2. Wall thickness. The thicker they are, the better. But, unfortunately, this indicator has a significant impact on the price. If the minimum thickness is less than four millimeters, then you should not buy such a bathroom. One more nuance - pay attention to the mortgages installed to secure the vertical posts; they must be at least a centimeter thick. How larger area- all the better.
3. Color. Standard color is white. But for stylish interiors You can buy bathtubs in original color shades.
4. Manufacturer. A very important factor. The simplicity of the technology is becoming attractive to many manufacturers, but not all of them treat consumers responsibly. You need to know that any deviations from the technology have an extremely negative impact on the quality of the bathtubs, and defects can be detected during operation. By external inspection it is impossible to see voids in the thickness of the plastic, poor quality adhesive compositions, violations of technological conditions, etc. We recommend purchasing goods only famous brands, do not try to purchase very cheap products. Ultimately, such savings always result in significant losses.
5. Equipment. If the store only sells the bathtub itself without a metal frame, look for a more responsible manufacturer. It is quite difficult to come up with various stops on your own, and only young children can wash themselves in the bathtub without them.

   Frame from an acrylic bathtub kit produced by Aquatek

For installation you will need a drill with a set of drills, a screwdriver or screwdriver, a tape measure, a level, a pencil or a felt-tip pen.

Important. Practitioners advise using a screwdriver; a screwdriver, if the tightening force is incorrectly adjusted, can damage the bathtub; you will have to look for a new place to screw in the screw, and this is not always technologically possible.

It is advisable to check the completeness of the delivery in the store in the presence of the seller.

Problems found at home are difficult to eliminate. You can assemble the bathtub on the floor, but it is much more convenient to do it on the table. No need long time strain your back, and it will take quite a lot of time to install all the elements.

acrylic bathtubs

Algorithm for installing an acrylic bathtub on a metal frame

Each bathtub comes with instructions; please read them carefully before starting installation work. Check the completeness of hardware, frame elements, locks, etc. Find out for yourself what needs to be installed where, in what sequence, and with what hardware to fix individual elements. The designs of metal frames may vary slightly taking into account the geometry and dimensions of the bathtub, but there is no fundamental difference. All perform one task - they take on the weight of those being washed and prevent the occurrence of large deformations.

First, you should assemble the metal frame and siphon, and then put the structure in place and fix it to the wall with corners to support the sides. Keep in mind that if the bathtub rests against the wall with three sides, it will be very difficult to place it on them. It is impossible to do this alone, you will have to call helpers and do it special devices. We will tell you how to make this work easier below as we describe the assembly technology.

Step 1. Place the bathtub bottom up on the table. If there is not one large table, then use two small ones. The main thing is that they more or less fit in height. Remove the original packaging.

Step 2. Place the frame on the bottom of the bathtub, select its correct position. On initial stage do not install exactly; the final location of the frame is adjusted as the legs are fixed. You can screw it on only after installing all the legs and taking into account the position of the decorative screen.

Step 3. Understand the frame components.

The number of vertical racks depends on the size of the bath; for products with standard parameters, five are enough - four in the corners and one in the middle. Pay attention to the special corners with which the sides of the bath are fixed to the walls. This important elements, are fixed to the walls after the final assembly of the frame before installing the product in place.

Step 4. Screw the studs into vertical racks, and insert the free ends into the holes of the frame.

There should be two nuts on the studs on each, with their help the supports are then adjusted in height and firmly fixed in the desired position. The height of the bathtub can be adjusted using plastic foot stops, but this is not advisable. Professionals recommend tightening them to the entire thread, this increases the strength of the plastic connection, and making adjustments using metal pins on vertical posts. Attach all the studs to the vertical supports in the prepared areas of the frame.

Important. Before fixing the second ends of the vertical racks to the bathtub, check their location. To do this, lean the decorative side panel against the bathtub and make sure that the legs do not create obstacles. The distance from the edge of the sides should be slightly greater than the thickness of the panel assembly.

Step 5. Check the position of the frame again.

Everything is normal - proceed to attaching it. For this purpose, the kit includes self-tapping screws of the appropriate length. For reliability, before screwing in, check their length, place them against the frame and see how thick they will be screwed into the bathtub. In the places where the legs are fixed, the bathtubs have inserts made of wood or other materials. The end of the screw should not reach the front surface of the bath by at least 5 millimeters. The stand support must be tightly screwed to the bottom of the side; wobbling is prohibited.

Important. The dimensions and material of the embedded parts have a significant impact on the strength of the installation. If the mortgages are small in size and the screw is screwed into them without much effort, then you should not hope that the bathtub is installed securely. Take additional measures to increase its stability: make brick linings, make screens from blocks, etc.

Check all frame fixing points and, if necessary, carefully tighten the screws. Make sure that the supports are in a strictly vertical position, constantly use a level and only then fix the elements to the surface of the bathtub.

Step 6. Start installing the metal studs for the legs. They need to be set to the size of the screen. Check the height with a tape measure; it should be the same for all studs. Tighten the locknuts only after final height adjustment. You need to screw a plastic leg onto each stud and check their position again. Standard height legs are approximately 60 cm, specific values ​​depend on the screen parameters.

Practical advice. Some legs have special thrust bearings, with the help of which the bathtub is fixedly fixed to the floor of the room. You will have to fasten the thrust bearings in a very uncomfortable position lying under the bathtub, keep this in mind. In practice, only the two closest legs can be secured. It is very difficult to screw the dowels into the outer ones. But in most cases, two are enough. If the bathtub is fixed with three sides to the walls of the room, then the legs do not need to be mounted on dowels. But make the final decision yourself, taking into account the operating characteristics and dimensions of the bathtub.

Step 7 Screw the fixing corners of the decorative screen to the side. The set includes three corners, two on the edges and one in the middle. Place them on the side with inside, place the screen and mark the position of the corners. Attach the corners to the bathtub. If they do not have factory screw holes, drill them yourself.

Screw the clamps with self-tapping screws

Step 8 On the front side of the screen, mark the location of the holes for the screws. Take measurements very carefully, everything should work out the first time. Check the position of the elements, the screen itself will be installed last after complete installation baths.

Now that the assembly of the metal frame is complete, proceed with the installation of the siphon and overflow.

First, as always, carefully read the manufacturer’s instructions and check the package contents. The instructions should contain not only a list of elements, but also a diagram step-by-step assembly. Don’t rush to get to work right away; first think through the sequence of actions and the purpose of each detail. There is nothing superfluous in the kits; if you still have some spare parts, this indicates an error during assembly.

All elements of the siphon and overflow must be tightened only by hand; if too much force is applied, the rubber gaskets are damaged. It is impossible to repair them; you will have to look for a replacement. But this is not so simple; not all types of gaskets can be found separately.

Never use sealants during assembly; connections must be secure without them. Sealants do not have this long term Used like rubber, problems are bound to arise over time. If there is a leak, then it is not the siphon that is to blame, but the one who assembled it. Be careful when installing. Why?

1. Leaks under the bathtub are not immediately detected. And the prolonged presence of water can cause very unpleasant situations, including the appearance of fungus on the surfaces of the walls. To eliminate the fungus, you will have to use a complex of construction measures; this is expensive, time-consuming and difficult. In addition, you will have to completely dismantle the bathtub with all the negative results.
2. It is inconvenient to make repairs under the bathroom. It is much more profitable to do all the work conscientiously at once than to suffer later with eliminating problems and their consequences. This principle applies to the installation of any plumbing fixtures, not just bathrooms.

After all the frame elements have been assembled, the siphon and overflow have been installed, you can begin to install the bathtub in place. This also has its own rules and difficulties; let’s look at the step-by-step instructions for performing the work.

Putting the bath in place

You will need to do three operations: connect the siphon drain to the sewer system, attach special corners to the walls to support the sides of the bathtub, and install a decorative screen. There shouldn't be any problems at first. flexible hose The drain is simply inserted into the socket of the sewer pipe. But with installing the corners and then fixing the bathtub on them, difficulties may arise.

Practical recommendation. We recommend installing an acrylic bathtub before connecting the shower. The fact is that it is located in a place convenient for users, which is completely logical, and often this place creates great difficulties during the installation of the bathtub. If the shower faucet is very close to the sides of the bathtub, then installing it in place becomes more difficult.

Step 1. Place the bathtub with frame on the floor and use a level to check its position. Keep in mind that the bottom must have a slope towards the drain hole, otherwise not all the water comes out after washing. Its remains dry out, and unpleasant and difficult-to-remove stains appear on the bottom. If necessary, adjust the position by changing the valley of the legs. This is inconvenient to do; you will have to lie down on the floor and unscrew/tighten the adjusting nuts in this position. It is especially difficult to get to the two outer legs.

Step 2. Mark the location of one side support element. It is easiest to remove marks from the end of the bathtub; access is most convenient in this place. Distribute the supporting elements evenly, divide the length of the supported sides by the number of elements.

Step 3. Using a level, draw a line on the walls where the elements are attached. This is a very responsible operation. The supporting elements should lightly touch the inner surface of the sides; gaps are prohibited. Moreover, protrusions are not allowed - the edge of the bathtub will be deformed or completely destroyed.

Step 4. Drill holes in the walls for dowels and secure the supporting elements.

Now all that remains is to install the bathtub in place so that the edges of the sides are supported by metal elements. This is not easy to do, the bathtub rests against the walls on at least two sides, and there is no way to hold it in these places with your hands. If the dimensions of the room exactly match the dimensions of the bathtub, then three sides will rest against the wall. How to install a bath in these cases? Moreover, this must be done so that the edges cling to the supporting elements on the reverse side. We offer two methods.

Attaching the bathtub rim to the wall with an installation kit

Then be sure to check the position of the legs; they should rest on the floor. If they sag a little, adjust their position. Now all that remains is to connect the drain and attach the decorative screen.

How to install a decorative bath screen

Preparatory work already completed during frame assembly. Now all that was left was to fix the screen itself. For this purpose, the kit includes screws, washers and decorative plugs. Put everything in its place and fix the screws one by one. If everything is done correctly, there should be no gap between the floor and the screen.

Acrylic bathtub with decorative screen

To prevent water from entering between the walls and the bathtub, sealing should be done. For these purposes, you can use a sealant that matches the bathtub or buy a special tape. Everything is ready - install the shower and test the bath. If you did everything carefully, then there will be no problems.

bath screen

Video - Installing an acrylic bathtub on a frame

Video - The process of installing an acrylic bathtub from A to Z

Acrylic bathtubs, due to their advantages (lightness, high functionality, variety of shapes and sizes, reasonable price), are in great demand among the population. However, their main advantage, associated with low weight, is also the main disadvantage - an acrylic product changes its shape under load and makes noise when filled with water.

Typically, the manufacturer supplies its products with a metal frame to which the legs are attached, but too often this configuration and assembly scheme do not provide the required level of stability. Repair and construction organizations, independently or at the request of the consumer, have to take additional measures to ensure reliable installation; similar methods are used if they install an acrylic bathtub with their own hands.

Disadvantages of factory design and basic methods for high-quality installation of an acrylic bathtub

Installing an acrylic bathtub with factory-installed claw feet is a fairly simple job that any homeowner can do if they have read the instruction manual. But such an installation has the following disadvantages:

• The bottom settles under heavy loads if it is used for installation on the floor. standard design from two pieces of metal plates with legs located on the sides.
• The side walls of the bathroom at the point of contact with the facing tiles bend, and the sealant covering the seam peels off - this leads to water leaks along the perimeter of the walls onto the floor. Forms in the bathroom high humidity leading to mold on decorative coating walls, ceilings and accelerates corrosion of electrical outlets, lamps, household appliances.
• No manufacturer takes action to additional sound insulation bathtubs that, when filled, resemble an empty basin with a stream of water hitting it. The metal mounting profile further aggravates the situation, being an excellent conductor of sound.
• In all designs, the support strips and frame are attached to the bottom with metal screws. During operation, the possibility of their self-unscrewing due to vibrations and deformation of the acrylic body from loads cannot be ruled out - this can lead to mobility of the bathtub and, accordingly, loss of tightness of the silicone waterproofing around the perimeter.

To combat these problems, the following methods are used:

• To eliminate the deflection of the side walls of the bathtubs along the perimeter, maintaining a horizontal level, special factory support plates are attached, and if they are not included in the package, a metal profile or wooden beam is installed, on which the product is then laid. If the distance from the side of the bathtub to the wall is too large, a piece of cut gas silicate block is glued underneath with tile adhesive or a solid support is mounted from them, gluing it to the wall from bottom to top.
• To avoid sagging of the bottom of the bathtub, various building materials are placed under it, mainly brick and gas silicate blocks are used. In this case, the bathtub does not need legs, but they are often left in place to increase stability.

Another method of strengthening the bottom is to make a durable steel frame, located under its surface (some responsible manufacturers complete their products with a similar design). The technique is used if maximum space under the bathroom is required for household needs.

• To combat the noise from a water jet, it is necessary to increase the mass and thickness of the walls; this is achieved by two main methods:

1. Self-adhesive materials for sound insulation, used in automotive technology, are glued to the outside surface, but it should be taken into account that many of them have a bitumen base, when heated, a sharp smell of tar can appear in the air. Special kits for sound insulation are available for sale. steel baths, which can also be used for acrylic products.
2. Cover the outer acrylic surface with mounting foam. You should know that the service life of the foam is about 15 years, and it is susceptible to exposure to ultraviolet rays, after which it decomposes, loses strength and crumbles.

Do-it-yourself technologies for installing an acrylic bathtub

When deciding how to properly install an acrylic bathtub with your own hands, use modern technologies, used when carrying out work by repair and construction firms and organizations. Self-installation does not require specialized construction tool, except for a hammer drill, which is used for drilling and installing grooves, and any homeowner can find screwdrivers, a hammer and a hacksaw for wood. For proper installation, a building level is required; for certain work, a grinder with a disc for concrete and metal, and a screwdriver, if available, will not hurt.

Installation of an acrylic bathtub on a frame

A number of manufacturers produce acrylic bathtubs complete with a rigid frame that reinforces the bottom; it is present in almost all volumetric models complex shape or included in the package rectangular models. If the purchased bathtub does not satisfy the consumer in terms of rigidity requirements, frame fasteners can be purchased separately for any standard size.

Basis frame structure is a prefabricated or welded metal frame made of a rectangular metal profile with side stops at the corners and perimeter in complex structures; for installation on the floor, the package includes a number of four or more legs. Sometimes the bathtub comes with an all-metal frame, welded at the factory - it does not need to be assembled and the structure has higher rigidity compared to a prefabricated one.

The standard frame system kit includes vertical posts, legs with plastic bearings, studs, nuts, self-tapping screws, plastic or metal plates for fastening to walls, and clamps for the screen, if available.

Due to the complexity of the design and large quantity legs, installation of the frame takes more time than systems on four supports with two plates. Installing an acrylic bathtub on metal frame do it yourself in the following sequence:

• Prepare a place for installation, freeing up space in one of the rooms, lay a sheet of cardboard from the packaging on the floor, and place a bathtub on it, turned upside down.
• Using the supplied self-tapping screws, screw the plastic screen fasteners into wooden cubes placed under the side on the sides of the screen.
• A rectangular frame is laid on the bottom; to center it, you can first draw two intersecting perpendicular lines in the middle of the bottom surface of the bath using a tape measure, and place a rectangular metal profile along this guideline. But usually the task is not complicated; the frame is placed in the center visually - the main thing is that it dimensions did not extend beyond the perimeter of the bath, and the profile did not interfere with the installation of the screen.
• Using a screwdriver, screw the self-tapping screws included in the kit into the bottom through the holes on the frame profile.
• The legs are assembled by screwing them onto studs along with nuts and washers: two nuts for the far supports and three for the legs on the screen side.
• Thread the pins into the holes in the corners of the frame, screw vertical metal stops to them between the profile and the side of the bathtub, and press the corner fasteners for the screen with nuts from the front side. The operation is repeated for each of the four corners or along the perimeter for products of complex shape.
• Turn the bathtub over and install it in its location, using a building level to align it with the horizon and the required height.
• If fastening of the sides is provided, press the bathtub against the wall and draw a line along the perimeter of the border with a pencil, then measure the height of the side, step back this distance from the line and draw another mark parallel to it below. Factory or homemade fasteners are installed on it, on which the side of the bathtub will rest and be fixed.
• After fixing it in the wall, install a decorative screen and screw it with self-tapping screws to the previously installed plastic or metal ones. corner mounts, cover the screw heads with plugs.

On your feet

Frameless installation on the legs of an acrylic bathtub is mainly used when placing products rectangular shape, self-installation quite simple and does not cause difficulties even for an unprepared homeowner. Installation operations are performed step by step in the following sequence:

• Cover the floor with a sheet of cardboard to prevent scratches on acrylic surface, places a bathtub turned upside down on it.
• Using a tape measure, mark the middle on opposite edges, connect two points with a longitudinal line with a construction pencil.
• In accordance with the instructions, retreat the required distance from the edges of the landing area at the bottom (40 - 50 mm), draw a transverse line parallel to the short walls of the bathroom.
• Using a tape measure, find the middle of the metal mounting strips, mark it with a pencil, apply them to the previously drawn transverse marks, aligning the central points.
• Assemble the legs by screwing them onto the studs along with the nuts (3 pieces) and washers from the kit.
• Screw the planks to the bottom with self-tapping screws, insert studs into them with pre-installed legs and fixing nuts, adjustable or wrench press the supports against the planks at the corners.
• Turn the bathtub over and place it in its permanent location, level it horizontally and in height.
• If the package includes factory fastening to the walls, mark the lower edge of the side and screw the supports along the line using a hammer drill, placing them at the same distance from each other (in standard set eight mounting plates are included - four in length and two in width).

On bricks

Sometimes situations arise when the purchased bathtub does not have legs or a frame (for example, when purchasing second-hand products), or the owner of the bathtub has such weight that not a single frame can support it, and the thin plates with legs will simply bend. Moreover, when heavy weight the user is at risk of mechanical damage to the bottom of low-quality bathtubs without frame support.

To solve the problem of the lack of factory fasteners and to avoid the above-mentioned troubles, there is an inexpensive way to strengthen the bottom by installing the bathtub on brick supports. To implement it, you will need several bricks, sand and some cement for diluting the cement-sand mixture, and polyurethane foam.

The work is carried out in stages in the following order:

• Dilute the cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1 to 4, having previously covered the area of ​​the floor on which the support cushion will be placed with waterproofing.
• Place the bathtub on the floor upside down at the location, outline its surface with a pencil on the floor in the adjacent areas, and if there is no access at distant points, connect the ends of the drawn outline.
• A support platform is laid out of brick, approximately in 3-4 rows, without going beyond the dimensions of the outlined contour and slightly short of the required height - it depends on further operations; for installation on a cement pad, the gap is made equal to 20 mm; when installing on foam, a distance of 20 mm is sufficient. 10 mm. Typically, supports are made from several transverse parallel rows of bricks or a continuous rectangular area is laid out without gaps.
• After the brickwork has hardened, lay a cement-sand mortar on its surface and lower the bath onto it, fixing the sides in wall fasteners or laying the curb on support guides from a profile for plasterboard or wooden beam. Excess squeezed out cement is removed and the cement-sand cushion is completely dry.

Installation on a brick support - examples

Note: It should be noted that a rigid cement support with a movable acrylic bottom is not very a good option– the lower surface of the bathtub, if deformed during operation, can peel off from the cement, which will create some discomfort during use.

A more successful installation method with good sound insulation due to the large total mass is gluing the bathtub to the brick support with polyurethane foam, for this:

• The dried brickwork is moistened with water, a bath is installed above it with a gap of about 10 mm (if the sides are not attached to the walls, pieces of tiles or other hard materials are placed under its bottom), several heavy bags with building materials or other cargo.
• Foam the free space between the brick support and the bottom with polyurethane foam.

Sometimes gas silicate blocks are used instead of bricks, the advantage of which is ease of installation - to obtain required size They can be cut with a regular wood hacksaw.

When using blocks installation operations carried out similarly to work with brickwork - install the bath on a gas silicate support covered with cement mortar or polyurethane foam.

On bricks and legs

If the purchased bathtub is installed on legs without using a frame, then two plates do not provide sufficient support rigidity under loads. In this case, an additional support made of brick or gas silicate blocks is installed under the bottom using the above technologies. At the same time, the work is significantly simplified:

• The bathtub is placed on legs according to the level.
• Brickwork or gas silicate blocks are laid underneath it, without removing it from the location and monitoring the height (a gap of about 10 mm under the mounting foam) and dimensions of the support in place.
• Next, place a weight inside the bath, wet the surface of the support with water, and foam the gap.

On a pedestal

When installing acrylic bathtubs, situations often arise when wastewater sewer pipes located too high in the wall due to errors by unqualified plumbers or for technological reasons. Maximum rise in height by unscrewing the studs of the support legs is not rational - the bathtub will lose stability, and a large, unaesthetic gap will form between the floor and the factory screen. To solve this problem, use a brick pedestal (less commonly, it is made for decorative purposes), on which the bathtub is placed, raising it above the level of the subfloor. Only professionals can install this structure - usually the podium is tiled after installation, and all the work is carried out by a tiler.

The procedure for installing the pedestal consists of the following sequence of operations:

• First, place the bathtub bowl in its location, with a level attached to the side walls strictly vertically, transfer its outline to the floor, outlining the boundaries with a construction pencil. If the podium protrudes beyond the dimensions of the bathtub, draw a line parallel to the marked mark.
• A brick is laid along the outlined contour, placing it on the edge; the middle is also filled with brick or light gas silicate blocks with small omissions.
• Using a transition pipe, a sewer drain pipe is brought out over the podium.
• The surface of the pedestal is leveled with a screed or a sheet is glued moisture-resistant plasterboard, on which the tiles are then laid.
• The bath is placed on the podium using one of the above methods.

Wall mounting

Due to the mobility of acrylic bathtubs, the gaps between the wall and the sides are closed only with elastic materials - silicone sealant, rubber linings. To avoid leaks, it is important to ensure the stability and rigidity of the sides - their movement can lead to peeling of the silicone insulation. There are several common methods for ensuring rigid fixation of the walls of acrylic bathtubs:

Fixing plates. Factory fasteners are plates made of metal or plastic, which are screwed onto self-tapping screws using dowels along the perimeter of the sides to the walls at an equal distance from each other. The bathtub is lowered into them from above, the side fits tightly into the grooves with the support - this eliminates the sagging of the borders and their displacement, together with the bathtub, to the side.

Support guides. Using a metal profile for drywall or wooden beams, screwed to the walls with self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter, is the most effective solution problems with sagging curbs. Unlike factory supports, a frame made of timber or profiles is often mounted for the further installation of a tiled screen on a plasterboard base - thus achieving maximum stability of the bathtub on all sides.

Strobes. Some craftsmen strengthen the walls of acrylic bathtubs by sliding them into cut grooves - the method is quite labor-intensive and does not look very aesthetically pleasing (a significant part of the side is placed in the wall, breaking the symmetry). It is much easier to make an artificial groove - the board is placed under the tile cladding, and strips of tiles are glued underneath it, using scraps and scraps of materials (instead of tiles, you can screw a thin wooden beam, a metal corner or a support).

Sealing joints between the side and the wall

The main disadvantage of acrylic products is the difficulty in sealing junctions with walls; the following methods are used to solve the problem:

Silicone sealant. The most commonly used method for sealing joints, due to its cheapness and ease of application, is to stick protective masking tape along the contour of the bathroom and to the wall, squeeze the sealant out of a gun into the seam and level it with a finger soaked in a soapy solution. With certain skills, you can achieve an almost perfect, even sealing strip.

Adhesive tape. The industry produces a special self-adhesive border tape made of light rubber, which is glued to the walls and side surface of the bathtub. The technology for its installation is accessible to any housewife, but requires care; if mistakes are made, the tape can always be removed and another strip pasted.

Plastic skirting board. On construction market a special corner with rubberized edges is presented - when installing, its body is inserted into the gap between the bathtub and the wall, pressing so that the rubber edging fits snugly against the wall tiles and sides.

Screen installation

Decorative screens that manufacturers use to complete their products have an aesthetic appearance, match the color of the bathroom, but have one significant drawback - they do not have a technological window (hatch) that allows you to quickly inspect or remove the siphon for preventative cleaning, store washing powders and other household chemicals under the bathroom.

Therefore, many homeowners during repair work When installing bathtubs, construction organizations prefer to order the manufacture of a screen or make it themselves from the following materials:

Drywall. Experienced specialists can carry out work on installing drywall using a metal profile; in addition, they require special construction tools - a hammer drill and a screwdriver. Moisture-resistant seals are screwed to the assembled frame from the front side. plasterboard sheets green, onto which the facing tiles are then glued. For the hatch cover, assemble a rectangular frame from a profile, screw drywall of the required size to it and stick tiles on top; another option is to purchase a ready-made factory hatch standard size with the outer surface for gluing ceramics to tile adhesive.

Brick. You can lay out the front part with bricks or gas silicate blocks yourself if you have a building level to control the vertical, however, tiling and installing a hatch will require special skills, so such work is usually carried out by a tiler. The door for the window, as in the above case, is made from plasterboard profile and sheet, or purchase a standard size factory design.

Plastic panels. In this case, it is easier to make the frame for the screen from a wooden beam, which is then nailed or screwed to it plastic panels, a plastic hatch of the required standard size is purchased from a retail chain and cut into the screen. Unlike previous works, install wooden frame and making plastic panels with your own hands is much easier; to drill holes in the walls you will need a hammer drill.

Bathtubs made of acrylic are more common products in everyday life compared to their metal counterparts, however, when installing them, one has to solve problems associated with the typical disadvantage of all products made of plastic materials - low rigidity. To solve the problem, construction methods are used - assembly with different ways strengthening the sides and bottom, giving effective results, most of the work is easy to do yourself.