How to install an acrylic bath. Video: Do-it-yourself acrylic bath installation

How to attach to the wall?

If your frame provides for additional stops for wall mounting, you must use the following instructions:

STEP 1. On the underside of the sides on the wall we put marks with a marker.

STEP 2. We remove the structure and, using the building level and marker, draw a line for the side of the bathtub.

STEP 3. We attach the side supports, as shown in the figure, and mark the places for drilling.

STEP 4. Using a puncher and an 8mm drill (depending on the size of the dowels, but 8 is usually used), we drill holes to the depth indicated in the instructions.

STEP 5. We fix the side stops to the wall with dowels and self-tapping screws.

STEP 6. For best effect fastenings, we coat the places of support of the sides of the bathtub with sealant.

STEP 7. We put the bath together with the frame on the stops. We press well, fill it with water and coat the joint with the wall with sealant or close it with a corner.

Now you can deal with sewerage and screen installation.

Useful video

For methods of installing a bathtub on a frame, see the video below:

Conclusion

You can install an acrylic bath of any configuration on the frame yourself if you follow all the recommendations of experts and follow the instructions. But if there is no self-confidence, then it is better to turn to professionals. Remember, acrylic construction is very fragile and can burst from careless handling.

Acrylic bathtubs are made from different types of plastics. The inner part is made of transparent plastic material - acrylic. It contains special additives that provide a bath:

1. hygienic properties. Thanks to smooth surface a person experiences a comfortable feeling, and the inside of the bath is practically not contaminated, which prevents the growth of harmful bacteria.
2. Maintainability. Small chips or shallow scratches can be repaired.
3. Plastic. Under the action of high temperatures, the product is given various forms.
4. Variety of colors. To obtain the required coloring, a special powder is introduced into acrylic before the polymerization stage.
5. Fade resistant. Over time, the sanitary ware does not lose its original color.

Acrylic bathtubs are in demand due to their wide functionality and not heavy weight. Like any material, acrylic has its drawbacks, which are expressed in:

1. Sensitivity to abrasive and alcohol-containing products. To wash the product, it is necessary to use special detergents to avoid damaging the thin acrylic film.
2. Poor high temperature resistance. Under the influence hot water the plastic softens and can be deformed.
3. High price. Baths with the same capacity, made of iron or cast iron, are significantly inferior to the acrylic counterpart.
4. mechanical brittleness. The product may be damaged if a heavy object is dropped or if it is not sufficiently reinforced.

To minimize the above disadvantages of acrylic plumbing, you need to use special detergents, first of all, pour cold water, and then dilute it with hot water and securely strengthen the structure in the bathroom. The article will consider in detail the way to securely fix the bath to the place of its installation.

The figure schematically shows the location of the frame and sole for the bottom, made of bricks.

Installing a corner acrylic bath on a frame

For the capital strengthening of the acrylic bath, installing the screen and sealing the seams, you will need the following tool and material:

• perforator with a drill of 8, 10 mm;
• drill with a drill with a diameter of 6, 8, 14 mm (14 mm can be made from a pen drill);
• crosshead screwdriver;
• stationery knife;
• tape measure and pencil;
• level;
• open-end wrenches 8 - 13 mm (the size depends on the hardware used);
• saw or electric jigsaw;
• brush for applying drying oil;
• gun for foam and silicone;
• timber with a section of 30 by 30 mm;
• drying oil, silicone and polyurethane foam;
• bolts and connecting nuts with a diameter of 10 mm:
• self-tapping screws with suitable dowels and logs of 6 - 8 mm;
• bricks;
• metal corners with sides of 50 mm and a length of 60 mm in the amount of two pieces;
• external plastic corner for tiles.

Before installing the bath Finishing work in the room must be completed and mounted hot distribution point, cold water, sewer outlet.

It is advisable not to remove the transport film from the bath until the end of work. So that the timber does not rot, it must be covered with drying oil.

Consider, for example, the installation of an acrylic corner bathtub 800 mm wide and 1600 mm long manufactured by Kolo (Poland) on the frame

Attached to the sanitary ware mounting kit: square support pipes, legs, metal grips, hardware. But the set is not enough for high-quality fastening of the bath. It is necessary to additionally make a rigid frame. Consider the order of its installation:

1. Connect the legs and pipes that come with the kit.
2. Attach the pipes with legs to the bottom of the tub with screws.
3. Install the bath in its location and, according to the level, adjust its position.
4. Using a pencil or marker, on the wall adjacent to the product, draw a line around the entire perimeter for placing the bottom of the bathtub rim.
5. Move the sanitary container away from the place of work.
6. Attach metal grips to the wall.
7. From the beam, cut off fragments with lengths equal to the distances between the metal grips, the grip and the edge of the tub.
8. Attach the cut pieces to the wall so that the container rests on them after installation.
9. Measure the distance from the bottom of the support beam to the floor, based on these measurements, make thrust elements from wood.
10. Apply silicone sealant to the side of the wooden post against the wall and install it as shown in photo 4.
11. Put the bathtub on the new frame, check its position and the fit of the frame and the rim.
12. Under the seat, mark out the placement of the corners for attaching wooden supports.
13. Remove the bath to a safe place and fix the corners to the wall, to the corners of the double support beam, and to them the stop. As a result, the seat should rest on the structure shown in photo 5.
14. Attach a siphon and overflow to the bathtub. Put it on a rigid frame and grips.
15. Connect the siphon to the sewer outlet and check the tightness of the drain connection.
16. Between wooden support and top there is a gap in the side, into which tightly insert an additional beam to create a major support for the side (photo 6).

Photo 4. Installing an acrylic bathtub on an additional timber frame.

Photo 5. Installing a corner acrylic bath.

Photo 6. Attaching an acrylic bath to the wall.

The stage of erection of the frame is over, proceed to the next steps.

Installing an acrylic bath on bricks

The bottom of the acrylic product rests on the channel, but they do not securely fix the position of the bottom. The plastic softens under the influence of temperature, if it is not additionally strengthened during the bathing process, the bottom will dynamically change its position. Over time, these stresses will damage the acrylic. When the installation of the acrylic bath on the frame is completed, it is desirable to further strengthen it with bricks and foam.

Work order:

1. Measure the distance from the bottom to the floor.
2. Based on measurements, select the number and size of bricks so that they are enough to fit under the entire area of ​​the bottom of the bath, while leaving a gap of 5 - 10 mm between the brick base and the bottom. Instead of a brick, you can use a cinder block or its fragments.
3. Fill the gap left with foam. At the end of the foam hardening period, the bath is ready for use.

Such an installation of an acrylic bath on bricks not only provides a uniform load on the product, but also reliable fixation and reduced heat loss.

Screen installation

The side screen of acrylic bathtubs is often sold separately. For rectangular structures side part can be done independently, for example, from drywall, followed by tiling. In this case, the screen is set at an angle for the convenience of placing the legs in the process of doing some kind of work on the bathroom. For the same purposes, in its lower part, in the middle, an opening is left with a width of 200 - 300 mm and a height of 100 - 150 mm.

Such protection will be difficult to manufacture for corner products. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase a standard screen along with the bathroom. It comes with grips, stops and spring-loaded legs. This kit does not provide structural rigidity.

Consider one of the options for strengthening the screen

Attach the metal grips and stops to the bathtub and the wall in such a way that, resting against the stops and grips, the screen is flush with the bathtub in an upright position.

Install the feet into the mounting holes of the side protection. Prepare a timber in the amount of 6 pcs. with a height corresponding to the height between the edges of the screen.

In the four prepared elements in the side, make a hole with a diameter of 14 mm and a depth equal to the height of the connecting nut. Since the nut must fit snugly into the wood, the hole should not be reamed.

Wooden products with nuts will serve as additional support legs, others serve as fittings.

Drive the connecting nuts into the beam. On the side parts of the protection, mark the holes for attaching wooden elements to the screen. The beam must be positioned in this way: without holes on the sides, and the other four parts should be evenly distributed over the protection, taking into account the existing legs.

In places where the board without connecting nuts will be placed, on both sides of the screen collar, make holes in the middle with a diameter of 4 mm and ream to place the head of the self-tapping screw on the same level with the product.

At the installation points of the bar with nuts in the upper part of the protection, make holes of 4 mm with a countersink, and with opposite side hole with a diameter of 10 mm.

Place firmly on the screen wooden elements and fix them with screws and bolts in accordance with the purpose. Install the protection in its place, spread it with bolts installed in the additional support legs, between the floor and the side of the bath.

Sealing gaps

A gap is formed between the installed plumbing and the wall. To prevent water from entering wooden structures the frame and the floor must be sealed. The gap can be removed in an original way with the help of silicone and an external plastic corner for tiles.

First of all, marking is done and, in accordance with this, trimming the length and corners of the corner. Then the gap is filled with silicone and a prepared corner is inserted into it.

After a day, the design becomes airtight and fits perfectly into the interior of the bathroom.

Dismantling of the acrylic product

The service life of acrylic in comparison with the cast-iron and steel counterparts is small. The bath may leak due to non-compliance with the rules for the care of acrylic, mechanical damage to the body, etc. If there is no possibility of restoration, the product must be replaced. Since the product is securely fixed to the floor and walls with silicone and foam, consider the procedure for dismantling it:

1. Dismantle side protection bath and put it in an inaccessible place.
2. With a hacksaw blade for metal, cut the foam layer between the bricks and the bottom.
3. Start replaceable blade stationery knife between the outer plastic corner, which closes the gap between the walls of the room and the shoulder of the product, and the wall and cut through the silicone sealing layer around the entire perimeter.
4. Remove the corner from the gap. If it cannot be separated, then by lifting the corner by the free end, cut the sealant.
5. Since the container is fixed with metal grips, lift one end with force until the edge comes out of the groove. Do the same manipulation with the rest of the sides.

This completes the dismantling of the product. When replacing with a similar model, it is not necessary to redo the frame.

Today, acrylic bathtubs occupy a leading position among other types of bathtubs in the sanitary ware market. They are recognized the best baths middle price range. This popularity is due to the following advantages:

• acrylic baths are light (up to 40 kg), so they are easy to transport and install;
• acrylic provides significant heat capacity - the bathtub is warm to the touch, and the water in it cools more slowly compared to its cast-iron or steel "sisters";
• an acrylic bathtub does not require complex care, it is easy to wash (preferably with special products for acrylic), it is quite hygienic - no plaque, stains form on its surface, bacteria do not multiply;
• acrylic allows designers to create models of a wide variety of sizes, shapes and colors, which is clearly demonstrated in the photo.

To install an acrylic bath with your own hands in an apartment or house, you do not need special knowledge or expensive equipment. Despite this, many resort to the services of plumbing. Such work costs a lot, although it is easy to do it yourself.

A bathtub is a fairly voluminous product, but due to its light weight, one person can install an acrylic bathtub with their own hands. This is another reason why acrylic bathtubs are better than others.

What is included?

Before installing an acrylic bathtub with your own hands, you need to study what came with the acrylic bathtub. So that you do not have to run to the hardware store at the wrong time for a couple of screws. Each manufacturer package their product differently. Someone only has instructions, while someone takes care of their client and sends products with a mounting frame, siphon, mounting legs (photo below), dowels, self-tapping screws, etc.

Preparatory work

Installing an acrylic bathtub with your own hands will not cause difficulties even for a beginner, but there are some nuances. Although these bathtubs are quite light, when installing an acrylic bathtub, ensure that the structures reliable support not only on the floor, but also a strong mount to the wall. So the bath will be better and more securely fixed. It's not hard to do it yourself.

To begin with, it is worth determining the installation location of the acrylic bath, water supply and drainage Wastewater. The supply of cold and hot water must be made securely, if possible discreetly, but with convenient access for servicing pipes, both water supply and sewerage. The correct choice of the installation site and the supply of communications is almost a 100% guarantee that re-installation of the acrylic bathtub will not be required.

Before installing an acrylic bathtub with your own hands, all finishing work must be completed. If you have already installed a bathtub and want to replace it, you will need additional work for its dismantling.

Before installing an acrylic bath, it is necessary to turn off the water supply valves and drain the remaining liquid from the pipes. Next, the bath must be independently disconnected from the sewerage system.

If you have an old Soviet cast iron sewer and metal strapping, then you have to work hard. The brass conclusions of the drain and overflow inside the bath must be filed with a grinder, and then knocked down with a sledgehammer and a chisel. The connection of the piping and sewerage is usually made with cement. You can’t do it yourself with your bare hands, it’s better to use a chisel and a sledgehammer.

With their help, carefully break the cement and loosen the strapping. The main thing is not to split sewer pipe. If you plan to change the pipes yourself, then it’s better to just cut them into pieces yourself. After knocking out the cement, the old metal strapping can be easily pulled out.

If your old harness is plastic, then you yourself need to unscrew the two screws securing the harness to the bath with a screwdriver, and simply pull the corrugation out of the sewer. If the screws do not lend themselves, it is better to simply break the plastic with a hammer.

The photo shows a wastewater drainage system.

After the dismantling and removal of the bath, check the condition of the sewer pipes. With a knife, clean the lead to the piping to the metal. If the pipes are plastic, you should check them for stagnant contaminants.

Necessary materials and tools

When installing an acrylic bath with your own hands, you cannot do without the appropriate tools. Their number and type differ, depending on the type of piping (drain-overflow system) installed on old bath and the type of your sewer (plastic or cast iron).
In any case, to install an acrylic bath with your own hands, you will need:

• hammer (preferably a small sledgehammer 1kg);
• chisel;
• flat screwdriver (minus);
• building level;
• roulette;
• ruler;
• pencil;
• cement;
• border (fillets) for the joints of the bathtub with the wall;
• silicone sealant.

If you have an old cast-iron sewer installed in your apartment, as well as an old piping (metal), then you will also need:
- a small grinder (angle grinder) with a disk for metal;
– new tub piping with corrugation (40 or 50 mm);
- cuff 73x50 or 73x40 (depending on the type of corrugation of the new harness).

Installation and installation of an acrylic bath: video

There are several methods for installing an acrylic bath with your own hands. Let's get acquainted with all the ways to install an acrylic bath. To the most simple method includes the installation of an acrylic bathtub on legs, which are included with the bathtub. Installers prefer to install the bath on a brick frame, and some installers use a combination of these methods. Let's take a closer look at each of the methods.

Installing an acrylic bathtub on legs is the most fast way installation, which is usually carried out according to the instructions. It comes with other accessories.

Installation of an acrylic bath takes place in four stages, which are described below:

• Marking and fastening for installation of legs. To do this, on a flat floor, you need to turn the bathtub over, make a markup based on the attached instructions and drill holes in which the fasteners will be fixed. Then the guide frames are screwed to the bottom, and the legs of the acrylic bath are installed.
• Siphon installation. This stage involves connecting the upper, and then the lower drain.
• Installation on legs. Marking and installation of mounting brackets on the wall. The bath must be installed against the wall and adjusted, mark the place of its junction on the wall with a marker and attach the brackets. Put the bath in place.
• At the last stage, the screen is installed on an acrylic bath, covering communications and mounting structures.

More detailed instructions you can see how to install an acrylic bathtub on legs in the video below.

The next installation method is to install an acrylic bath on bricks with your own hands. This method of installing an acrylic bathtub is more complicated, but more reliable than the first one. As a rule, it is used in the absence of legs in the configuration; bricks act as these legs. First, a brick frame is built, which is laid out in half a brick, taking into account that there is a gap of 1 cm between the bathroom and the brick frame, and also at a distance from the siphon. When the solution dries, a bath is mounted on it. The gap between them must be filled mounting foam, pour water into the bath so that everything is sealed.

To install an acrylic bath on bricks with your own hands, it is not necessary to use mounting strips. If you decide to install the bathtub on bricks, without using fixing strips, you must lay out the base in the form of a bowl, thus preventing the bathtub from tipping over.

If you decide to install the bath on bricks using fastening strips, you must follow the algorithm of actions shown in the video below. The bathtub is installed to the walls with the help of fixing brackets. If the bath is installed on bricks, then it is recommended to install special ledges on the bed, on which a decorative screen is then installed. An example is shown in the photo below:

Visual instructions for installing an acrylic bath on bricks are attached in the video below.

In the combined method of installing an acrylic bathtub, elements for installing the bathtub on legs and bricks are used here. This design is no less reliable than installing the bath on bricks, but at the same time, the combined installation method, in contrast to installing the bath on bricks, is much simpler and less laborious. Many specialists use a combination of the first two methods during installation to increase reliability. First, legs are attached to the bath, and then it is installed in such a way that the emphasis falls on both the legs and the brick frame. The gap is also filled with mounting foam.

Installation of a corner acrylic bath

Corner acrylic bathtub saves space. There are two ways to install a corner acrylic bath: on bricks or on legs. The photo below clearly demonstrates both installation methods. Installation on legs will take less time, but mounting an acrylic bath on bricks will be more reliable. The choice is yours.

Installation of a corner acrylic bath begins with checking the corner where the bath will be installed. Most often, the walls are slightly uneven, so the angle deviates by several degrees. But to install a corner acrylic bath, we need a strictly 90 ° angle. To do this, the walls are plastered, then tile or other finishing material is laid, and only after that they proceed to install the bath itself.

Consider the combined method of installing a corner acrylic bath, as shown in the photo below.

To begin with, we make markings at the bottom of the corner acrylic bath, and then install the fasteners. After the legs are adjusted and the bath is level, we make markings on the wall and measure the distance from the bottom of the bath to the floor, these indicators will be useful to us when installing brickwork.

Now we make brick supports in half a brick. Brick supports should not be attached to the bottom of the bath. There should be a gap between the brick and the bottom of the corner acrylic bath, which is sealed with mounting foam. For laying bricks, use the usual cement mortar. You can watch the instructions for laying bricks on the video, which is easy to find on the Internet.

After the mortar dries, the drain and sewer systems are carefully checked, and all joints are coated with sealant.

After that, you can install the bath, the resulting gap between the brickwork and the bottom of the corner acrylic bath must be filled with mounting foam. Installation to the wall and fastening of a corner acrylic bathtub is carried out according to the same principle as rectangular bathtubs.

Installation of a decorative screen

A decorative screen on an acrylic bathtub is used in cases where the bottom of the bathtub is not finished. Most often, the legs of the bath have an unattractive appearance, and communications under the bathroom cannot be called art. That's when decorative screens are used. For acrylic bath screens can be made independently or to order.

To securely install the screen on an acrylic bath, you will need clip-fasteners that are mounted on the bottom of the bath and on the floor. The screen will be attached to them. Clips are installed on the edge of the acrylic bath from below, clips are installed perpendicular to them on the floor. After all the fasteners are installed, the decorative screen panel simply snaps onto them.

Decorative screens can be made from the most different options. Someone installs an acrylic bathtub under the tile, then the screen walls should also match the tile. More sophisticated minds put the space under the bathroom to good use and mask the cleverly placed shelves for household chemicals with the help of a screen. The main thing is not to forget that the walls of the screen should be easily removed or opened in order to free access to communications. An example of a decorative screen is shown in the photo below.

This completes the installation of the decorative screen.

Whirlpool bath

One of the main advantages of an acrylic hot tub is the absence of almost any special care for it. Even after many years, your hot tub will remain beautiful and look like new.

Acrylic hot tub will allow you to truly relax after a hard day. Thanks to the pumping equipment, water is circulated, which provides hydromassage.

Acrylic hot tub retains heat well, thus providing a longer bath time. And the acrylic hot tub itself feels warmer.

You can purchase an oval, rectangular, or asymmetric hot tub, but all must be frame-mounted. Installing a hot tub on bricks is not acceptable. This is due to the presence of a hot tub complex system circulation of water, which provides hydromassage.

Asymmetrical bath

Asymmetrical acrylic bathtub is mainly installed in bathroom design solutions. Installation of an asymmetric acrylic bathtub is carried out on a frame or supporting reinforcement, which most often comes with a bathtub.

Asymmetrical bathtubs are the best solution for bathrooms with unusual decision. At the same time, you can install an asymmetric acrylic bath yourself without the extra cost of calling a master.

Acrylic bath care

For everyday care of an acrylic bathtub, there should be special means cleaning, soft cloth. If scratches appear on the surface, then you can get rid of it with your own hands. To do this, you need to polish the damaged area with the most fine-grained sandpaper with water. After that, toothpaste is applied to the surface, cleaning is carried out with a soft cloth.

Scale in the bathroom can be removed by yourself with a soft cloth, warm vinegar, lemon juice. And the walls of the bathroom will shine like new. With the same composition, you can wipe the walls and tiles in the bathroom, as well as the legs of the bath. This is the best home remedy for pimples. It is not recommended to use acetone, gasoline, chemical substances containing organic acids. They are capable of corroding acrylic. Moreover, the result of the use of these funds is sometimes not corrected by yourself.

It is better to clean the walls of acrylic bathtubs yourself with a sponge with a specially designed cleaning solution. This agent is applied to the surface of the bath in an equal layer, then after 10 minutes it is wiped off with a sponge, the bath is rinsed with clean water. If the bath was heavily soiled, then it is better to repeat this action again.

Do-it-yourself acrylic bath cleaning should be done monthly. Chrome-plated, galvanized sections of the bathtub are recommended to be cleaned only when necessary. Do not clean the bath with sharp, heavy objects.

Before installing the bath with your own hands, all finishing work must be completed, laid floor tiles and tiles on the walls, or other finishing materials.

Take care of the accessories in advance.

When installing a brick screen with your own hands, leave a gap between the bathroom and the brick wall. Sealant will be installed in it later. Install all accessories before completing installation work.

Video: installing an asymmetric bath

The video shows the highlights of the installation of an asymmetric bath.

Video: assembly and installation

In the video below you can see the process of assembling an acrylic bath. The video highlights all the main points, and shows The best way installation of an acrylic corner bath.

The following video shows the process of installing an acrylic bath.

Uncomfortable and heavy cast iron or steel baths give way to modern acrylic products. They attract with their advantages: whiteness and ease of care. A wide variety of shapes (rectangular, angular, round) will allow you to choose suitable option for any room. But choosing and purchasing a bath is only 50% of the case. Further operation and service life largely depend on the installation. This issue should be approached responsibly, because the slightest mistake will lead to damage.

Acrylic bathtubs - strengths and weaknesses

Such products are attractive appearance, various forms, flowers. However, they also have disadvantages that should be considered.

Let's start with the pros:

1. 1. Plasticity. It is this indicator that allows you to make bathtubs of any shape.
2. 2. Light weight. The average weight is about 20 kg. For this reason, even one person can handle the installation.
3. 3. High heat engineering. Acrylic is a fairly “warm” material, so products made from it retain the temperature of the water longer.
4. 4. The ability to independently carry out repairs using liquid acrylic or a special insert.

But there are also disadvantages. Knowing the cons will extend the life of the bath. These include:

1. 1. Sensitivity to high temperatures. Acrylic is the material that deforms at t above +60 degrees.
2. 2. Fragility. If you accidentally drop something heavy, you can pierce the bottom of the product through. Therefore, you need to install them and continue to operate them carefully.
3. 3. Vulnerability. Use hard brushes to clean the container, aggressive household chemicals it is forbidden.

Don't skimp on an acrylic bathtub. Choose well-known brands, even if they are more expensive - but in this case there is a guarantee of reliability and long term operation.

The nuances of choosing a height and installation procedure

Before installation, you should familiarize yourself with the accepted standard. Compliance with the recommendations will allow you to use the room for adoption with maximum comfort. water procedures. This also affects the safety of operation. During installation, personal preferences and requirements should be taken into account. For example, in medical institutions, bathtubs are placed at a level of 50 cm from the floor. The main thing when choosing a height is ease of use. According to current regulations, the optimal figure is 60 cm.

Since most apartments have small rooms, most often the bath is mounted near the walls; if there is enough space, it can be placed in the center of the room. Before proceeding with the installation, you need to choose the appropriate option. Acrylic bathtubs install:

• on legs - they must be included;
• on a frame with legs;
• on a brick base.

Some specialists who want to give the structure maximum strength use the combined installation method: on legs and a brick frame.

Regardless of the method chosen, during the work it is required to provide access to pipes and communications. This is simple when using legs or a frame, and when building a brick base, they leave a gap, which will allow maintenance.

Self-assembly - step by step instructions

To choose the most suitable way installation, you need to familiarize yourself with all existing options.

On legs

The work looks like this:

• installation of legs in the required places;
• bath installation;
• height adjustment of the legs;
• fixing the product;
• finishing.

To install, you need to turn the bath over, find the areas for fastening. It remains to screw the legs. If the installation is carried out on a special platform, the products are mounted on guides that are attached to the bottom of the structure. To adjust the font, one cannot do without a building level: first, the height of one leg is set, and from it the values ​​\u200b\u200bof the remaining three are determined.

Never drill holes yourself. This will lead to serious deformations of the entire bath. In addition, the product may roll over, because the manufacturer, when creating, chose the places for installing the legs, taking into account the correct distribution of the load when filling the structure with water.

After installing the legs, turn the bathtub over, put it on the selected area. At this stage, it is advisable to cover the bottom of the product with some material to prevent accidental damage. It remains to adjust the height. First, the alignment of the side in contact with the wall is carried out, then the position of the rest is adjusted. The instruction is as follows:

• raise one of the corners to the required height by turning the screw;
• put the building level on the adjacent corner, align its height;
• align the other sides in the same way;
• correct errors if any.

If you want to install with a slight slope towards the drain, just change the height of the legs by only 1.5-2 cm.

On the factory frame

Do-it-yourself installation of an acrylic bathtub is carried out according to the following scheme:

• unpacking of structural elements;
• marking for two baths, where you need to mark the attachment points;
• drilling holes for fasteners;
• installation of brackets;
• installation of frame legs, other elements;
• connection of a drain hole, siphon;
• joint sealing;
• bathtub installation and alignment;
• installation of hooks that are required to prevent the unit from turning over;
• hanging the product on hooks;
• sewerage connection.

It remains to check the tightness of all connections. It's simple: fill the container with water, inspect all the elements. If there are problem areas, they are treated a second time with a sealant. If you need to screw the guides, be sure to use the fasteners supplied by the manufacturer. Drill holes exclusively in the places intended for this. Moreover, in order to avoid damage to the bath by inept actions, it is advisable to wind the tape around the drill. This will indicate the depth to which the tool can dive.

It is undesirable to change the fasteners supplied in the kit for any other. After all, the manufacturer accurately calculates the dimensions of all products, which will avoid damage. After the installation is completed, it is advisable to close the bath and all communications with a decorative screen.

On a brick frame

Although manufacturers advise mounting on the provided engineering supports, sometimes it becomes necessary to install on a brick base. This is usually due to the implementation of an unusual design solution, area and shape of the room.

When choosing a brick base, it is worth giving preference to two separate supports - it is easier to mount and use. If the frame is made correctly, the base will be characterized by maximum strength - the design will serve faithfully for many decades. To make the base, you need the following tools and materials:

• brick;
• metal profiles or corners;
• cement mortar;
• sealant;
• self-tapping screws.

The instruction is as follows:

1. 1. On the wall, the location of the lower edge of the side is marked. Several holes are drilled along the line for fasteners.
2. 2. The profile is installed and fixed.
3. 3. The base is marked on the floor.
4. 4. In progress brickwork. When the design is dry, proceed to installation.
5. 5. Communications are connected and joints are processed using sealant.
6. 6. The bath is filled with water to check the tightness of the connections.

Metal profiles mounted at the level of the bottom of the font will help strengthen the structure. If it was decided to make a rectangular brick base, it is worth providing a place to ensure free access to all communications. If necessary, make a slight slope, you need to lay a metal plate up to 1 cm wide in the masonry, or simply take more mortar.

If a bath was purchased without a special decorative screen, this product can be made independently. When choosing a material, a number of requirements must be taken into account:

• it is possible to use only moisture-resistant material that is not afraid of temperature fluctuations;
• it is necessary to provide quick access to communications.

If the bath is installed on a brick base, then on the front side you can assemble a brick wall and finish it ceramic tiles. Moreover, the top row should be 2-3 cm below the edge of the side; to seal the rest, you need to “blow out” with mounting foam. To access communications, you need to leave a technological hole and make a door.

Often, plastic, GKLV, MDF are used for decoration. Plastic products will allow you to quickly finish the lining of an acrylic bath. And if the panel becomes unusable, it can be quickly replaced. Drywall is finished on top with tiles, film, decorative plaster. GKLV is installed on a frame made of wood and metal. Before assembly, the racks are treated with either a moisture-resistant primer or an anti-corrosion compound.

Installing a bathtub is a pretty hard job in the truest sense of the word. This is especially true for cast-iron plumbing, which is almost an impossible task to install alone.

For installation, even relatively light acrylic baths, it is better to find an assistant, as any awkward manipulation can damage the body, cover or drain parts.

What to consider before starting work

Before you start installing the bath yourself, critically evaluate your own capabilities - do you have enough skills to mount plumbing fixtures almost by touch. Although we note that even very modest skills acquired, for example, when installing kitchen sink, should be enough for a successful installation of the bath.

When purchasing plumbing made of acrylic, be prepared for the fact that the work will have to be done with the utmost care - if carelessly handled, the bath can warp, causing the coating to crack. It will also be damaged if the working tool accidentally falls into the bowl. In addition, during installation, blind holes will have to be drilled in the body of the acrylic bath, and given that this material is extremely easy to drill, it is quite possible to overdo it and make a hole through the bath.

What you need to know about cast iron bathtubs

Before purchasing cast iron bath, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with its features as carefully as possible:

1. It is better to lean such a bath on three walls at once, especially if it is installed on open decorative legs, since the latter can easily break from the lateral force applied to the bath.
2. It is advisable to attach the siphon to the drain hole in advance, while again you will have to take a heavy bath once again tossing, which can lead to various damages.
3. Cast iron bathtubs are quite expensive to buy, but their operation is also expensive.

When installing cast iron, take care not to damage the tiles on the floor.
To do this, usually put bricks under the legs.

Cast iron warms up for quite a long time - in order to fill the bathtub with warm forty-degree water, a boiler that heats water up to 60 degrees will need about 100 liters of water. For comparison, the same acrylic bath will require only 50 liters of water heated in a boiler to 60 degrees. It should also be taken into account that cast iron gives off the received heat much faster, therefore, in terms of efficiency cast iron bath inferior to acrylic more than twice.

Features of acrylic bathtubs

Unlike cast iron, acrylic bathtubs are quite light, which makes it possible to install them alone. In the production of acrylic sanitary ware, enterprises do not experience any technological difficulties associated with giving products any complex shape, so on sale you can find the most different samples, but at the same time quite inexpensive.

Thermal conductivity this material quite low for a bath long time did not cool down, while heating it occurs almost instantly. Related to this significant savings during the operation of acrylic plumbing, as already mentioned above.

Attach the assembled frame to the acrylic bathtub in the bathroom,
otherwise, it may not pass through a standard 60 cm doorway.

The main disadvantage of acrylic bathtubs is their relatively low strength and not as long service life as cast iron ones. However, with careful operation, it can reach 15 or even 20 years. Overview - read the next article.

The method of installing acrylic bathtubs also differs from cast iron ones, which is due to the characteristics of the material.

Installation of cast iron bathtubs

A cast iron bath, as previously noted, is extremely heavy, and it is with this circumstance that some features of its installation are associated:

Installation of acrylic bathtubs

First of all, when installing an acrylic bath, it will be necessary to attach guides for legs to its bottom, which are attached to the bottom with self-tapping screws.

All marking is carried out in accordance with the instructions, while the lodgements are installed strictly perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bath.

The attachment points of the legs usually have an increased thickness of acrylic.
If not, glue wooden bars and screw on them.

Drilling blind holes for self-tapping screws is necessary with a drill with a stopper about 3/4 of their length. After that, the legs themselves are installed, drain fittings are mounted.

An extension of the bypass pipe should be provided.

The side of the bathtub sits on plastic hooks that are attached to the wall with dowels.

The bath is installed in the right place and leveled in height with the help of adjusting screws.

Note. It is not necessary to adjust the slope of the bathtub for draining, it is structurally incorporated at the ebb of the bathtub bowl.

All cracks are sealed with silicone, the influx of which can be removed with a rag soaked in acetic solution.

There is also an option for restoring a bath - this is, read all the subtleties of this method in a separate article.

When installing, an important role is played by the height to which you can raise the bath above the level of the sewer inlet. It should be raised higher for two reasons:

1. The drain from the bath will become more intense. In this case, it is not so much the speed of water removal that is important, but the fact that a powerful drain will almost completely eliminate the formation of hairballs on the drain mesh and in the siphon.
2. The high location of the bath will make it possible to install a siphon with a deep elbow and, accordingly, a good water seal, which will significantly reduce the likelihood of the penetration of an unpleasant odor and harmful gases back from the sewer.

Deep knee protection unpleasant odors sewers

The choice of material is also important. In most cases, it is made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) and polypropylene. The latter material is more expensive, but at the same time it is stronger, more durable, its walls are smoother, which minimizes the possibility of blockages.

Regarding the choice of drain, a few words should also be said. So, too cheap models of siphons, the metal mesh of which is attached to a bolt, can in fact be considered non-separable, and therefore non-repairable. The fact is that after a few months the rust seizes the bolt so much that it is not possible to unscrew it without breaking the siphon. At the same time, it does not even matter what metal the hardware is made of - steel or, for example, bronze or brass. Just in the first case, we will observe the usual chemical corrosion, and in the rest - electrochemical.

In conclusion, we note that for overflow in the bathroom, you should not take a rigid pipe at all. A flexible corrugated hose is quite suitable for this, which, on the one hand, is extremely easy to install, and on the other, due to the greater inner diameter provides better water permeability, which reduces the likelihood that water from the bathroom will overflow.