Restoration of an old bathtub with acrylic. Acrylic bathtub restoration

Changing a cast iron bath is a rather laborious and cost-intensive process. Therefore, it is better to use the services of specialists who will restore the product, extending its life. The company is engaged in the restoration of bathtubs using effective methods.

We offer a cast-iron bathtub restoration service at the best price in Moscow

We have been repairing old cast iron bathtubs since 2003. Our company fulfills orders quickly and with high quality. A cast iron bowl can be upgraded in several ways. We offer services:

Acrylic liner;

Bulk bath;

Enameling.

Each of them has its own specific advantages. For the repair of a cast-iron bathtub, the most suitable coating is liquid acrylic, which is also called a “irrigation bathtub”. This technology consists in applying a special agent to the surface of the bowl. It dries evenly and forms a glossy snow-white surface with a service life of more than 10 years.

Any, even the most reliable and high-quality bath, over time, can become covered with cracks and roughness, turn yellow or rust. It is almost impossible to avoid this - even the mildest detergents and household chemicals lead to thinning and wear of the surface coating. In this case, the owner of the bath is faced with the question of buying and installing a new bowl. However, this is a rather expensive solution, which, moreover, entails the need for repairs in the room. Therefore, it is better to restore the bath - it will not require large expenses, and the work can be done independently.

There are three main methods that allow you to restore the appearance of old plumbing: applying a new enamel coating, restoration with self-leveling acrylic and using a special liner. It is better to choose a specific method, taking into account your own financial capabilities, the materials from which the bowl is made, as well as its condition.

In addition, it should be taken into account that such a solution has a number of disadvantages, since a bowl with a new coating will not have the same performance characteristics as that which was manufactured in an industrial environment.

1. The materials that are used for the restoration of plumbing are less durable and not as strong, so the surface requires more careful and gentle care.
2. When enameling a bathtub or restoring it with liquid acrylic, you may encounter the following problem: the original color of the bowl will show through the new coating (especially if the layer is too thin), changing its shade.
3. During use and cleaning, the color of the bath may change under the influence of chemicals.
4. Sharp or bulky objects will cause damage to the new coating even if they fall from a small height, and dyes (such as hair dyes) can leave indelible stains.
5. Those who like to smoke in the bathroom will have to give up their habit, as a cigarette can leave an ugly burn on the surface.

However, at the same time, the restored plumbing is maintainable, and its properties directly depend on the quality of the materials and the accuracy of the work.

Despite the growing popularity of modern polymer compositions, enamel-coated steel and cast-iron plumbing is often found in modern homes and apartments. Metal is a strong and reliable material, but the enamel coating wears out quickly enough. Restoring an enamel coating is a fairly simple process that does not require special knowledge or skills.

True, this method of restoring the appearance of bathtubs has one significant drawback. Cracks that appear on the surface grow very quickly, the enamel begins to peel off, water accumulates under it, which leads to the appearance of an unpleasant odor, dampness and mold. In addition, this method is not suitable for bathtubs with a large number of small defects - they can be noticeable even after coating.

How to choose a composition for enamel restoration?

In order for the new coating to be strong and reliable, you need to choose a composition for the restoration of bathtubs. There are not many options, so for the right choice you need to know the main characteristics and properties of the compositions.

Name	Manufacturer	Coating durability	Features of work
	Russia, Germany	On average 5 years (subject to the conditions of application and operation, the indicator can reach 7-9 years)	Two-component enamel with a hardener that completely cures in 48 hours. Well fills all small defects in the surface of the bath. It is quite difficult to work with the solution, as it is very thick and “seizes” in about 60 minutes
	Russia	6-8 years old	Two-component epoxy resin mortar. It can be used when there are no noticeable defects and damages on the bathroom. Requires fast work, as it hardens in about 70 minutes. In liquid form, it is toxic and can cause allergies.
	Tikkurila Company (Russia, Finland)	10-15 years old	One of the highest quality, but expensive compositions for the restoration of plumbing. Working with the solution is quite simple, but it will be possible to use the bath for its intended purpose in at least a week
	Random House Company, Russia	6-8 years old	Bathtub refurbishment kits, which include a two-component bowl coating, hardener and surface preparation

reflex 50

Step-by-step instructions for the restoration of the bath with enamel

Stage one. Preparation of improvised means and materials

To enamel bathtubs, you will need the following tools:

The enamel that will be used to restore the bathtub must come with all the necessary components. To give the coating the desired shade, you can purchase a special tinting paste (if not prohibited by the manufacturer). In addition, it is very important to protect your mouth and nose with a respirator, your hands with gloves, and all work should be carried out only in a well-ventilated or ventilated area.

Stage two. Enamel preparation

Before proceeding with the enameling of the bowl, you need to thoroughly clean the surface, since the quality and aesthetic appearance of the coating depend on this.

Step, No.	Description
	Sprinkle the bath with an abrasive agent and clean it with coarse sandpaper. You can also use the grinding nozzle of an electric drill, as well as remove old enamel by sandblasting or hydrochloric acid diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 4.
	Treat areas with rust spots with a rust converter, wait 30 minutes and sand well. If there are deep cracks or chips on the surface, it is better to use automotive putty - there is a risk that the composition will not be able to fill them, and the enamel layer will turn out to be uneven
	Remove the remnants of the old coating and wipe the bath well using a rag or lint-free cloth.
	Fill the bowl with hot water, leave it for 10 minutes to warm the surface, drain the liquid and dry the surface. Make sure the tub is free of crumbs, fluff, or debris.

The preparation of the bath must be carried out in exactly this sequence, without missing a single step, otherwise the enamel will quickly come off. The most clean, smooth surface of the bath is a guarantee that the new coating will be durable and reliable.

Stage three. Enamel coating

Combine all the components of the enamel as indicated in the instructions, mix the composition well. Divide it into two parts - for the base and finish coat. Apply the first layer with a wide brush - it should be thin, but as even as possible, without drops. It is better to start from the edges of the bowl, gradually moving down. The composition must be very well smeared so that it fills all the pores of the material. After applying the first layer, you need to leave it for 10-15 minutes, but you should not wait for complete drying, otherwise the enamel may become dusty, and then the work will be spoiled. Then apply a second layer with the same brush, the direction of the strokes is from the middle to the edges. Leave the bath for another 15 minutes and eliminate defects (even experienced craftsmen have them), using the brush in the same way. You can perform this procedure until the enamel becomes too viscous.

Sometimes spray containers are used to apply the mixture, but experts recommend avoiding this method, as bubbles and streaks may appear on the surface, causing the enamel to peel off. Instead of a spray gun, it is better to use a compressor - it will allow you to evenly distribute the composition along the walls of the bath and create a coating of the same thickness.

It is better not to use the bath for a week - that is how much is needed for the enamel to completely harden. The temperature in the room should be maintained at 23 degrees.

Video - bathroom restoration by enameling

Method number 2. Bulk bath

This method of restoring plumbing consists in the following: liquid acrylic is poured into the bowl, which subsequently hardens and forms a new coating. Compared to the surface enameling described above, it has a number of advantages.

1. Acrylic is a thick and viscous substance, thanks to which it lies on the surface in a thick, even layer, hiding all the defects and irregularities of the bath.
2. The composition does not leave smudges, stripes and bubbles on the surface.
3. To restore the bath, you do not need to remove the tiles or dismantle the bowl.
4. The process takes less time than enameling or restoring with an inlay.
5. Acrylic creates a film on the surface that repels dirt and plaque.
6. Application of the mixture does not require special knowledge and skills.
7. Most of the materials that are used for the restoration of bathtubs have practically no unpleasant odor.

The result of this restoration method will be a smooth, glossy surface that perfectly retains heat and does not retain dirt. As in the case of enameling a bathtub, before proceeding with the work, you need to think about the choice of material. It is important to note that neither for the sake of economy, nor for any other purpose, ordinary acrylic, which is sold in hardware stores, can be used to restore bathtubs. According to its characteristics, it differs from sanitary acrylic, which is used specifically for the restoration of plumbing, so you can completely ruin the bath and harm your health. The choice in this case is between glass and liquid self-leveling acrylic.

Glass or Liquid Acrylic?

Today, two types of materials are used for the restoration of bathtubs: stakryl and bulk acrylic (Plastall is the market leader in the production of such materials, so liquid acrylic is often called plastol). Many consumers believe that they are no different from each other, but in fact this is not the case.

Stakryl appeared in stores about 10 years ago and has already managed to prove itself well. It fits well on any surface and costs less than plastol, however, restoring bathtubs with it can be quite difficult for beginners, since the composition sets quickly enough. It is much easier to work with plastol, as it is less whimsical in operation and does not have a pungent odor. In addition, this material retains its properties even after freezing.

Plastall offers consumers who want to refurbish their own bathtub a whole line of materials.

Name	Curing time	Peculiarities
"Plastol" classic	36-48 hours	An easy-to-work material that spreads well, has increased plasticity and good adhesion. It has no pungent odor, does not require the addition of thinners or other substances, forms a smooth and fade-resistant film. The mixture retains its properties for 90 minutes
"Plastol-24"	24 hours	A new material based on an improved classic formula. It is applied in one layer, the surface does not turn yellow, does not crack or peel off, it is resistant to mechanical damage and abrasion
"Plastol-M"	36-48 hours	Budget solution with an optimized formula, so the result of the use of the material is no different from the restoration of bathtubs with more expensive products. It does not have a strong odor, does not cause allergies, the mixture retains its characteristics for 90 minutes
"Plastol-Super"	16 hours	The "fastest" liquid acrylic, which hardens in a matter of hours. Does not form bubbles and streaks, does not require the addition of solvents or other components, but the mixture is “viable” for only 45 minutes

When choosing a material, it is important to pay attention to the price - a good product cannot cost less than indicated on the manufacturer's website, and fakes do not provide the required quality of the finished coating. For those who do not yet have experience in restoring bathtubs, it is recommended to buy acrylic with a margin so that it is enough for the entire surface.

Step-by-step instructions for the restoration of bathtubs with bulk acrylic

Stage one. Preparing to pour acrylic

Preparing the surface for restoration is practically the same as the preparatory stage when enameling a bathtub. It is necessary to clean off the old coating and sand the bowl so that its surface becomes matte, warm it up and dry it. After that, you need to disconnect the siphon designed to drain water and place a container under the bath into which excess acrylic will drain (the material must be avoided entering the sewer - this can lead to serious problems with water flow).

Stage two. Filling the bathtub with acrylic

Prepare the mixture as indicated in the instructions, pour into a convenient container and put a rubber spatula nearby. If you need material of a specific color, you can use tinting paste, but first make sure that this is allowed by the manufacturer. Its amount should not exceed 3% of the total volume of acrylic.

Take a container with acrylic and pour the composition on the sides of the bowl in a thin stream, pushing it with a spatula under the edges of the tile. It is not necessary to pour too quickly and strongly - you need to act so that you get a layer 4-6 mm thick, and the material slowly flows down to about the middle.

Move the container evenly around the perimeter of the bowl, without taking long breaks, until the circle closes.

Move the jet closer to the middle of the bath, do the same to capture the entire surface. You should not try to smooth out streaks or bumps - this will only worsen the situation, and all defects will disappear during the drying process. The time for complete solidification of acrylic is indicated in the instructions, but it is better not to use the bath for three days.

Throughout the entire period until the material dries, it is better not to touch the bathtub and not even come close to it, since the ingress of the smallest particles of dust or debris can spoil the appearance of the restored plumbing.

Video - Instructions for the restoration of bathtubs with glass

Method number 3. Restoration with insert

Restoration of bathtubs using acrylic liners is also called the “bath to bath” method. The liner is a construction made of acrylic, plastic or silicone, which is an exact copy of the bowl. It can be bought at a specialized store, having previously made all the necessary measurements of the bath, and then glued it to the old bowl.

Acrylic liners are the most popular today - they are much more aesthetic and durable than plastic or silicone. This design is ideal for old bathtubs that cannot be restored with a new layer of enamel or liquid acrylic. In addition, the surface of the liners perfectly retains heat, its surface is absolutely smooth, but at the same time it is absolutely non-slip.

This is the most reliable way to refurbish a bathtub (a quality acrylic liner will last approximately 15-20 years) and, contrary to popular belief, it does not reduce the interior space of a bathtub.

However, this method of bath restoration also has its drawbacks.

1. Difficulty in installation. Installing an acrylic liner is a rather complicated and time-consuming process. The liner is placed so that it covers the edges of the bath, and if the bowl is installed close to the wall, you will have to additionally remove the side and break the tile.
2. Possibility of water ingress between two tubs. If the installation was not carried out correctly, or due to wear or poor quality materials, water may enter between the liner and the bottom of the bowl. This will lead to dampness, mold and bad smell.
3. inconvenience during operation. Sometimes manufacturers make liners too thin, which can cause them to sag underfoot and eventually deform or burst.
4. Liners are made only for standard bathtubs. As a rule, bathtubs are divided into two types - 1.5 m and 1.7 m, and if the bowl has a non-standard size or shape, it will be very difficult, and sometimes impossible, to choose an insert.
5. Fairly high cost. Compared to new acrylic baths, liners are inexpensive, but you can buy a new steel bath for that price.

How to choose an insert?

In order not to make a mistake when buying an insert, you need to take the following measurements:

• the width of the bowl along the inner surface, and measurements should be made on both sides;
• length along the inner and outer surface;
• the depth of the bowl at the drain.

In order not to make a mistake that will entail trouble and additional costs, you can invite a professional measurer.

How to choose a bath insert

It should be noted that in most modern stores they sell products with a thickness of 3, and sometimes 2 mm - such liners are very short-lived, and it is not recommended to use them for restoring bathtubs. In the best case, the structure will last about 5 years, after which it will have to be dismantled and replaced.

Step-by-step instructions for restoring a bathtub with an insert

Stage one. Preparation of the bath and improvised means

For the installation of acrylic liners, mounting foam and silicone sealant are used. It should be noted that for the performance of work it is necessary to use only tools specially designed for this purpose. Simple foam, which is used in repair work, will not work in this case - it has a low density and expands too much. To improve these characteristics, additional components are added to the foam - it is this material that is taken for mounting acrylic liners. In addition, in this case, a sanitary sealant is used, which is waterproof and resistant to mold.

Preparing the bath for restoration with an insert- a rather long and laborious process, which, in the absence of appropriate skills, is best entrusted to specialists.

Release the sides of the bathroom, if necessary, remove one or two lower rows of tiles. It is not required to remove the old enamel, but it is recommended to clean the surface with an abrasive material - as a result, it will become rough and will better adhere to other materials. After that, it is good to clean the bowl of debris and crumbs, degrease with acetone or alcohol Disconnect the bath from communications by dismantling the upper and lower drains. The crosspiece also needs to be removed, and you should not use a hammer or other similar materials for this purpose, so as not to damage the drain. Before proceeding with the installation, it is better to check the condition of the pipes - if they are too worn out, it is better to take care of replacing Try on an acrylic liner - the design should go in easily or with little effort. In no case should you clog it with the help of improvised tools. Cut holes in acrylic for plums. It is most convenient to do this in the following way: plug the bath with a cork, lubricate it with some substance that leaves marks on the surfaces. Treat the second drain hole in the same way. Place the liner in the bowl, press it in the places of the drains and remove it - traces should be printed on the bottom of the structure. After that, it remains to mark the centers and drill holes of the required diameter. In order not to injure the skin on the sharp edges of the cuts in the future, they should be cleaned well. Step 5Determine the slope that is needed for good water flow - usually it is 1.5-3% in the direction of the drain hole Step 6Once again, degrease the surface of the bath well. Apply sealant to the upper drain hole, screw on the adapter, on which the sealant is also applied. After that, it should be applied to the drain hole, the width of the strip should be 2-3 cm, and the height depends on the fit of the liner to the bowl

Stage two. Installing the liner

The main rule to remember when installing an acrylic liner is that all the work should be done fairly quickly (in about 4-5 minutes), otherwise the adhesive will harden and poorly “grab” the materials.

Video - Acrylic bath liner

Summing up, it can be noted that you can update the look of an old bath without much damage to the family budget. With the right choice of restoration method, quality workmanship and appropriate surface care, the owner of a bathtub will be able to forget about all the problems and worries associated with plumbing for several years or even decades.

Step, No.	Description
	Apply polyurethane foam to the bottom and sides of the bathtub. Its quantity also depends on the tightness of the fit of the structure, but usually it is applied in strips with an interval of 4-5 cm, and on the sides the strips must be vertical and stretch from the bottom to the very top.
	Install liner
	It is good to press the sides of the liner with your hands, then stand with your bare feet in the place where the drain is located and move towards the opposite edge - this way the liner will fall into place and press firmly against the surface of the bowl. After that, it is good to press down the walls of the structure with your hands. It is not recommended to put pressure on the liner with any hard objects or hit it, otherwise you can damage the acrylic during the installation process

Cast iron bathtubs are not in vain very popular with buyers. Even though the market is filled with acrylic and steel taxes, cast-iron models not only do not go out of fashion, but also strengthen their positions. The reason for this demand is quite simple - a cast iron bath is durable, and at the same time it perfectly retains heat. However, over time, the coating of the cast-iron bath wears out, chips, spots and cracks appear on it. In such a situation, there can be only two options for solving the problem - restoring enamel on a cast-iron bath or buying a new one.

If we talk about buying, then it is worth considering a number of points that significantly affect the price of the issue, namely:

• in addition to the cost of a new bathtub, the dismantling of the old model and its disposal should be taken into account;
• the cost of delivery, transportation and loading of the purchased bath significantly increase its final cost;
• restoration of cast-iron bathtubs allows you to avoid such moments as installation and connection, because when restoring enamel, you do not have to overpay for installation and dismantling.

Restoration of cast iron bathtubs

If you are not used to wasting money and time in vain, you will certainly be interested in such a service as the restoration of cast-iron bathtubs. Modern technologies and innovative materials make it possible to return the bathtub to a radiant look and presentability in the shortest possible time at no extra cost.

Our advantages

Quality materials from Germany directly from the manufacturer

The material is non-toxic, odorless! Hardening - 20 hours

We work without prepayment, under the contract. Responsible approach

Experienced craftsmen. We have been restoring bathtubs for over 10 years.

Warranty up to 5 years! Service life of material 15 years

Prompt order fulfillment. Technical support

Price for restoration of a cast-iron bath

Bathtub 120 cm.

• German quality.
• Drying 20 hours.
• Service life of 15 years!

3 800 rub.

3 500 rub.

Bathtub 150 cm.

• German quality.
• Drying 20 hours.
• Service life of 15 years!

4 000 rub.

3 700 rub.

Bathtub 170 cm.

• German quality.
• Drying 20 hours.
• Service life of 15 years!

4 200 rub.

3 900 rub.

Restoration of enamel on a cast-iron bath

Restoration of cast iron bathtubs in Moscow is one of the services offered by our company. Even if your bath has completely lost its original appearance, do not rush to look for a replacement. The unique enamel restoration technology on a cast-iron bathtub will transform it, eliminating the need for an expensive purchase.

By contacting us, you can be sure that:

• all work on the restoration of the cast-iron bath will be performed at the highest level;
• you will be provided with a guarantee for all types of services provided;
• the quality of work will not cause any complaints;
• the cost of restoration will not hit your pocket.

Call us and make sure that the restoration of the enamel on the bath is fast, easy and very profitable!

Additional services

Name of service	Price
Installing an acrylic skirting board on the side of the bath	1300 rub.
Installation of our screen under the bathtub on an aluminum frame (regardless of the length of the bathtub)	2200 rub.
Installation of a new siphon (re-departure of the master 24 hours after drying. New siphon, corrugations, cuffs, connection + warranty)	1250 rub.
Installing the 150 cm acrylic liner.	4000 rub.
Installing the 170 cm acrylic liner.	4200 rub.
Call a measurer for advice and correct measurement of the bath	500 rub.
Preservation of the old piping (siphon), with the replacement of only the drain grate with a new one	150 rub.
Dismantling the old cast iron piping	400-600 rub.
Removing the plastic trim	Is free
Cleaning non-factory enamel	from 400 to 800 rubles.
color scheme	400 rub.
Bathroom chip removal	150 rub.

Acrylic coating prolongs the life of cast iron bathtubs, which lose their aesthetic appearance over time. The factory paint takes on a yellowish tint, the surface becomes rough, and there comes a time when you have to think about replacement or restoration. Covering the bathtub with acrylic or using an insert allows you to update the old product and extend its service life up to 15 years.

Acrylic bathtub.

Which acrylic to choose for the bathroom

The domestic market offers many products designed to restore cast iron baths. The most popular: "Plastol", "Standard" and "Stakril". These are two-component enamels costing up to 1600 rubles, packaged in 3.5 kg packages (the amount is calculated for a 1.5 m long bowl).

The agent is applied to the walls of the sanitary ware, where it polymerizes and becomes solid. High-quality coating is done in 24 hours.

Each enamel manufacturer has its own technology, the secret of which is carefully guarded. Depending on the brand, the product contains a hardener or degreaser in the kit. It is recommended to purchase funds from trusted manufacturers whose products are of high quality:

• "Stakril Ecolor";
• "Plastol";
• "Ecovanna";
• "Yarley".

Ecovanna brand products have established themselves in the market.

Developers who have at their disposal technical laboratories have experience in the production and sale of products. Unscrupulous competitors copy the products of these brands, releasing inexpensive enamel, vaguely similar to the original. Trying to save money, the consumer runs the risk of purchasing low-quality goods.

Acrylic bath liner

Acrylic liner is great for cast iron surfaces.

The plumbing bowl is updated with an acrylic liner made of polymer acrylic. This method of restoration has many advantages, since the bath does not need to be dismantled, and it can be restored in a few hours. The liner is affordable, it does not absorb dirt, it is easy to clean, it does not rust. Thanks to this element, the bowl looks great for the next 10-15 years.

The acrylic liner retains heat, bonds well with the cast iron surface, and works like a double glazing unit. The liner is mounted quickly, in a couple of hours, and the bath itself becomes usable after 7-8 hours.

Restoration with liquid acrylic: the pros and cons of the method

One of the main advantages is the long service life of the bath. After the upgrade, it can be used for more than 10 years. Acrylic is evenly distributed over the surface of the cast iron product, since it is poured, and not applied with a brush. The tool fills microscopic cracks, leveling the surface.

Enamel for restoration is harmless to health and does not emit a strong odor. It dries quickly, so the work is completed in a short time. But this method of restoration has a drawback. To start using the bath again, you have to wait 2 days. During this time it is best to keep the bathroom closed. Otherwise, dust particles that have settled on the drying layer of acrylic will spoil the appearance of the bath.

Most owners prefer white baths, but during the restoration process, you can tint the bowl in any other color.

How to cover the bathtub with acrylic on your own

You can save some money by filling the tub yourself. Before proceeding, you should soberly assess your own skills. It would be nice if you already have experience in performing painting work. First you need to prepare a cast iron product, then cast in layers. You need to work carefully, otherwise you will not be able to get a high quality coating.

Step by step guide to acrylic bathtubs.

Applied materials and tools

First of all, you need to make sure that acrylic and hardener are purchased in sufficient quantities. To restore the bowl with your own hands you will need:

Solvent 647 for bath treatment.

1. Device for mixing enamel - a plastic spatula with a blade width of 50 mm.
2. Five sheets of sandpaper measuring 25 x 25 cm. It is recommended to buy waterproof emery grade P 60.
3. Solvent 647, which is used to treat the bath after sanding and rinsing.
4. New spatula 10 cm wide.
5. Adhesive tape 5 cm wide of two types: masking and simple.
6. A medium-sized knife that will be needed for cutting tape and processing a cast-iron bowl.
7. Two types of screwdriver: straight and Phillips.
8. A stool on which you can mix the ingredients.

The restoration is performed wearing a long-sleeved shirt, a respirator, rubber gloves and a headgear. If the solution still gets on the skin, then it will not cause irritation, but it will be problematic to wipe it off. Hair should not fall on the treated surface at all stages of the restoration.

Room preparation

To protect the floor and walls, use a PVC film fixed with adhesive tape. It is desirable that there is nothing in the room but a bowl. Therefore, it is recommended to take out all unnecessary and loose items, remove the shower curtain, remove the crossbar. After that, you can start preparing the bath.

PVC film will be needed for processing walls and floors.

If the sinks or cabinet are located close to the bath, you need to move them away. Dust can enter from the rooms, so you need to isolate the ventilation using PVC film.

Cleaning the restored bath

Before applying acrylic, you need to clean the bath.

After preparing the room, the surface of the bowl is cleaned using emery or a drill equipped with a special nozzle. Some restorers use a grinder with a grinding disc.

To perform manual cleaning, it is required to wrap a wooden beam of a suitable size with emery, and then sand the surfaces. Processing should not be excessively intensive, because the mixture will not hold if the surface becomes excessively smooth. Scratching the walls of the bowl is also not allowed.

If the bath has already been painted before restoration, the enamel will need to be removed completely. The bath is cleaned with circular horizontal movements, removing a uniform layer, removing rust and forming a relief on the inner surface. Especially carefully work with the bottom.

After sanding, the surface should become rough, with no signs of factory coating. As a result of this treatment, liquid acrylic will be better fixed, it will not have to be spent in large quantities.

Washing and drying

To remove the remaining dust, the bowl and tiles are washed with hot water. It is recommended to use a liquid product that does not contain abrasive particles. Enamel adheres better to a cleaned surface. After washing the bowl, you need to close the taps, remove the shower hose and take them to another room.

Washing and drying the tub before applying acrylic.

Drops of water must not fall into the bath. Before applying acrylic, make sure that water does not drip from the tap. If there is still a leak, it is necessary to turn off the water or wrap the tap with tape, and then remove the drain and overflow. Under the hole, it is recommended to install a container with a volume of 1.5 liters, into which excess enamel will drain.

After that, dry the bowl and objects located nearby. It is advisable to use cotton fabric without lint. If drops of water remain in hard-to-reach places, you can remove them with a hairdryer.

If drops of water remain in hard-to-reach places, it is recommended to dry them with a hairdryer.

Laying the flooring and degreasing the bath

Degreasing the bath with baking soda.

It is important to clean the surface of all objects left in the room as much as possible from dust. If the dust is not completely removed, it will rise during a draft and settle on the enamel, nullifying the effort expended.

Surfaces are covered with newsprint or film, using adhesive tape for fixing. Then the cast iron surface is vacuumed and disinfected with baking soda or solvent.

Preparing Liquid Acrylic for Application

Before mixing the enamel, it is necessary to keep it in a warm place for a day. The tool is well taken if the restoration is carried out at a temperature of + 25 degrees. If you plan to apply acrylic in a cool room, you need to warm the mixture by placing it in a large container filled with hot water.

Acrylic must be mixed with a hardener.

In the second stage, acrylic is mixed with a hardener. First, open a jar of enamel, stir for a few minutes, and then add a hardener, which has the consistency of sour cream. Shake the container with the hardener several times before adding. Work with the hardener is carried out in protective gloves, in compliance with safety precautions.

After connecting the components, they are mixed with a wooden spatula. It is important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations, since some products need to be mixed for 10 minutes, and others for 15 minutes. Depending on the brand, acrylic is mixed in 1 or 2 doses.

Acrylic must be mixed with a wooden stick in a circular motion.

Stir the acrylic in a circular motion, touching the walls and bottom of the jar. Air bubbles should not appear on the surface. Mixer and other similar devices are not used.

Casting acrylic enamel in the bath

Bathtub embellishment.

After mixing is completed, you should immediately start enameling. If the mixture is left in the air for 30 minutes, it will become unsuitable for pouring.

Acrylic is poured into the bath not from a bucket, but from a small plastic container. It is recommended to cut a 1.5 liter plastic bottle in two and wipe it with a rag. Acrylic container must be completely dry. A bucket and a cut bottle are placed on a stool.

Borders

You need to start pouring acrylic on the left along the edge, gradually moving to the right side. Enamel should cover the sides. It is poured onto these parts of the cast-iron bowl 1 time, adding acrylic to the container as needed. It is important to be careful not to pour enamel in large quantities, otherwise it will spill onto the floor. The remaining voids must be filled with a spatula.

Enamel must cover the sides.

Walls

These parts of the bowl are covered in 2 stages. First, the enamel is poured from the edge of the back, where the acrylic layer does not drain so quickly. Then pour from the level to which the composition stacked at the first pour. After the mixture completely covers the back of the bowl, you will need to evenly distribute it along the bottom.

In the second stage of casting, the composition must be applied from the level to which it stacked during the first pour.

Bale patches

If incompletely sealed areas are found, it is necessary to collect a small amount of enamel from the bottom and cover the untreated surfaces with a spatula. It will be necessary to inspect the walls and identify errors. In some places there may be streaks that are removed with a spatula.

If bald spots become noticeable after acrylic coating, it is necessary to repair them with a spatula.

bottom coating

A thick layer of enamel is formed at the bottom, which is evenly distributed with a spatula and left. The coating will level itself. Drops remaining on the sides are removed with a spatula.

acrylic on the bottom of the bath must be evenly distributed with a spatula.

How to dry a hot tub

Over time, the coating becomes hard. Having found defects, you should wait for the end of polymerization, which lasts 48 hours, and then apply the factory repair kit. The mixture must be removed from the floor immediately, otherwise it will be difficult to remove. The bathroom must be closed for 2 days to prevent dust and small debris from getting on the surface of the drying bowl.

It's time to put on the harness

Installation of drain and overflow.

Acrylic dries 48 hours. After this time, it will be necessary to install a drain-overflow piping. Before starting work, you should remove the drive designed for flowing enamel. Use a knife to remove streaks. It is recommended to check the suitability of the gaskets on the harness. If they become less flexible, they should be treated with a sealant.

You will need to install a drain and overflow, put the drain pipe in its original position, connect the piping, release the mixer from the film and open the water. The drain must not leak. After these procedures, the bath will be ready for use.

In order for the bowl to retain its whiteness and smooth surface for a long time, you should choose a neutral cleaning agent to care for it.

Fake bulk acrylic

The Stakril company has been producing products for several years with a label of the same design. This means that any product whose label is similar to the Stakryl label is a fake.

Responsible manufacturers, well-established in the market, are trying to improve the quality of products. But unscrupulous competitors go to tricks to lure buyers. For example, they may buy up the product, rebottle it, and sell it under a fictitious brand. After a while, when the brand becomes famous, products begin to be made from low quality raw materials.

Some scammers buy a product with a hardener in large quantities and dilute it with a thinner. This enamel is less durable, it cracks a couple of months after the start of operation of the bath. In this case, you have to call the repairman and carry out restoration work again.

Unscrupulous manufacturers dilute acrylic with a solvent and get more products, but its quality deteriorates sharply. Such acrylic does not adhere well to the surface of the bowl. Similar fakes are sold in all regions of Russia. The label on such a bottle has the wrong color, and the bottle itself is made of second-class plastic.

Some small firms also produce their own goods using cheap raw materials. Such acrylic costs about the same: 1400 - 1600 rubles. But such inexpensive products are not suitable for bath restoration.

Before buying enamel, it is recommended to study the history of the brand. The large companies Stakryl Ecolor, Plastol, Ecovanna and YarLi, which have been operating on the market for several years, have long won the trust of consumers. They produce the best bulk acrylic. Their products are of high quality, acrylic of these brands is resistant to cracking and yellowing. The flip side of popularity is the fact that the enamels of these brands are most often faked.

The labels of genuine products are evenly colored, evenly glued, do not have swelling, and the caps are always labeled. The containers themselves are made of high quality PVC, which has a rich color. The buyer should also pay attention to the seal located on the surface of the cover. If the integrity of the seal is broken, such acrylic cannot be used.

A good restoration product has laser lithography markings on the lid. Ecovanna and Stakryl enamels are produced with adhesive labels on the lids. It is important to pay attention to all the details of the packaging, which should be the same as on the manufacturer's website. A bottle of genuine acrylic is always branded with the brand logo.

- the most demanded service of economical and practical renovation of old enamel. If the bath in your apartment has darkened, rust, stains, smudges have appeared on it, do not rush to change it. The situation can be corrected in a simpler and more economical way. To give your bath a new life allows the modern technology of restoration "Pouring bath" using enamel "Liquid Acrylic". This technology has already established itself as the most advanced and economical.

ANYTHING YOU NEED:

Acrylic bath restoration

It would seem a simple matter to cover with a layer of new enamel, but one cannot do without a specialist. Experts warn you should not try to restore the bath yourself, this is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. In order for the surface of the bathtub to be qualitatively fixed with liquid acrylic, it must be prepared. At the first stage of work, the master cleans the bath with a drill and sandpaper.

Then the surface of the bath is washed, dried and degreased, the defects are puttied. The bath is cleaned of old enamel and rust, and only after that you can start updating.
Having prepared the working composition of acrylic, the specialist applies it to the surface of the bath. Acrylic is applied by pouring, for this you do not need to use a roller or even a brush. Starting from the upper sides, the master evenly pours liquid acrylic. Repeating all the curves of the bath and filling all the cracks, the acrylic coating forms an even glossy layer. The thickness of the acrylic layer reaches from 2 to 6 mm, which ensures the strength, durability and heat preservation of the coating without leaving streaks, smudges and other defects.

Remember that an unprepared, specially trained person will not be able to properly apply liquid acrylic. Use the services of professionals to get the desired result. The work of the master to restore the bath will take only 2-3 hours and after 36 hours you can use your new bathroom.

The adhesion of acrylic (adhesion) to the bath is so great that it can increase its service life up to 15 or even 20 years. Bulk acrylic does not crack, does not peel off, such a coating has an exceptionally smooth surface, for this reason dirt and rust do not clog into it. The restored bathtub can be easily washed with conventional gel products.
After the procedure for pouring acrylic, your bath will acquire a beautiful radiant gloss. The surface will be smooth, resistant to bacteria, mechanical and chemical influences. Bulk acrylic is an environmentally friendly material with heat-insulating and noise-insulating properties.

Bath restoration with enamel

Resurfacing a bathtub with enamel is a method that has been in demand for many years due to the lack of good alternatives and may still be worthwhile in some cases.

When the factory enamel loses its appearance, acquires a gray tint from ingrained dirt, becomes covered with reddish spots from rust and a network of cracks of different depths, you can try to revive it with a new layer of enamel. Of course, you should not count on the fact that this layer will be as durable as the one that has already served for several decades. Restoration of a bathtub with enamel is a cosmetic coating that will restore beauty, shine and whiteness to the bathtub, but, unfortunately, for a short time.

Bathtub refinish enamel is essentially an epoxy paint that is mixed with a hardener just before work begins. The mixture, prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions, is applied to the surface previously prepared for coating. To ensure a good grip, the old enamel is removed with sandpaper and powder. All cracks, chips and potholes are cleaned to a metallic sheen, all material detachments are removed. Particularly deep surface defects are filled with a primer.

Before applying the enamel, the bath is heated by filling it with hot water and degreased with the White Spirit solvent. The surface is covered with a brush or roller, in thin layers. Depending on the type of enamel used and the visual effect that appears during the work, the master can apply from 2 to 4 layers.

The enameled bath will be ready for use no sooner than in 5 days. This is how much the material will need for good adhesion to the surface and complete drying. In order for the resulting effect of whiteness and glossy radiance to remain for the longest possible time, you need to use the bathroom very carefully. To do this, avoid impacts, exposure to metal objects, falling weights on the surface, cleaning with aggressive agents and hard brushes.

Even with the most gentle operation, you should not count on a very long use of a bathtub restored with enamel. It will retain a presentable appearance for no more than 1 year. Therefore, it makes sense to immediately pay attention to restoration methods that will provide a more durable and high-quality coating.

Bathtub restoration price

There is another argument in favor of restoring a bathtub with bulk acrylic - the price is very favorable for the consumer. Judge for yourself, the cost of restoring a bathtub is almost 3 times cheaper than when buying a new one, and there is less trouble during repairs. No need to dismantle the old bath, take it out, risking damaging the tiles or wall tiles.

Bath restoration with liquid acrylic is a smart choice for those who are used to saving time and money!