When choosing plants for their plot, every gardener dreams of creating a beautiful and well-groomed corner that would bring joy all season long. Some people like selective roses that require attention, while others prefer junipers that are easy to care for. But there are such garden plants that are distinguished by their extraordinary beauty and, at the same time, are quite unpretentious. A vivid example of such a plant is the Siberian iris, a favorite flower of gardeners not only in our country, but all over the world.

Siberian irises are perennial plants that can bloom for decades. They represent a fairly large group of garden irises that are suitable for growing in northern regions Russia, are distinguished by regular flowering and disease resistance. According to various sources, there are from 500 to 1000 varieties of these plants, different in bush height, color, size and shape of flowers.

Unlike their "brothers", bearded irises, Siberian ones do not have characteristic beards on the petals, the plants themselves are less tall, more resistant to diseases and temperature extremes. Fully justifying their name, they courageously endure harsh and snowless winters, windy weather and lack of fertile soil. The only thing that can disappoint lovers of fragrant flowers is the lack of smell. But do not be upset - abundant flowering Siberian iris fully compensates for this small “defect”.

These plants require a little attention and at the beginning of summer for 10 - 15 days delight with their spectacular flowers. On each peduncle, 5-7 flowers appear, each of which blooms for 4-5 days. After flowering, the plants do not lose their attractiveness, and until the autumn cold, their hard, pointed leaves continue to decorate. garden plot. But, undoubtedly, the flowering of iris is a real celebration of beauty, and in order for the plants to show themselves in all their splendor, they should be regularly taken care of.

When choosing a place for planting Siberian irises, one should take into account the level of illumination of the site. Irises need fairly bright lighting, but in the hot midday hours, a little shading from straight lines is desirable. sun rays. Irises are not demanding on the composition of the soil and successfully bloom in the usual garden soil, but the most abundant flowering occurs in an alkaline environment. The soil must certainly be well-drained - although Siberian irises are resistant to short-term waterlogging, a constant excess of moisture will certainly lead to the death of plants. You should not plant Siberian irises near trees and shrubs - extra shading and a powerful root system of larger "neighbors" will only interfere with their full development.

These plants bloom in the first half of summer. During this period, care for irises consists in regular watering and the timely removal of fading flowers. The fact is that Siberian irises quickly set seeds, and the plant begins to multiply by self-sowing. If for the majority garden plants this would be a virtue, but the same cannot be said about Siberian irises. Plants grown from seeds have a low decorative effect and often only vaguely resemble the original variety.

In autumn, the foliage of irises inevitably loses its attractive appearance and requires pruning. This simple procedure is carried out either in the second half of autumn, or in early spring before the appearance of young leaves. Moreover, cutting green leaves is not recommended - this can worsen the flowering of plants next year. It should also be borne in mind that the rhizome of Siberian irises grows not only deep into, but also upwards, eventually protruding above the soil surface. Such exposure of the roots should be avoided and periodically add soil to the base of the bush.

Irises reproduce well by dividing the bush. The time of this procedure depends entirely on the climate prevailing in a particular region. In cold areas, it is better to transplant in the spring, after the snow cover has melted. high humidity and the steady increase in temperature during this period create optimal conditions for a successful transplant. In warmer regions, it is preferable to transplant after 1.5 - 2 months after flowering, until October. Spring in the southern regions can be dry, and frosts come quite late, so such a “late” transplant - perfect option for Siberian irises.

Before dividing the rhizome, it is necessary to cut the leaves by about two-thirds, which will inevitably reduce the evaporation of moisture and accelerate the adaptation of the plant after transplantation. The rhizome is divided in such a way that each cut piece of the root has 1-2 sprouts. This procedure is carried out with a clean knife or any other sharp garden tool. Fresh cuts must be sprinkled with wood or activated carbon to avoid infection, and let it dry for a couple of hours, leaving the planting material in a shady place. Then the prepared rhizomes are planted in shallow holes and sprinkled with earth, slightly compacting it.

New plants are watered regularly to keep the soil moist. Siberian irises take a relatively long time to take root after transplantation and rarely bloom the next year, so you should not replant them every season. The most optimal interval for transplanting these plants is 3-4 years.

As for the fertilizer of Siberian irises, the use of compost will be most preferable. it organic fertilizer gradually gives back necessary for plants trace elements, which are enough for Siberian irises for quite long term. Usually, Siberian irises are fed a couple of times during the season. Old and overgrown bushes can be fed with complex mineral fertilizer in the spring, before the start of active growth.

Irises are truly beautiful. Their refined beauty has long been appreciated not only in Europe and America, but also in the East, especially in Japan, where at least a couple of these lovely flowers grow in almost every garden. Siberian irises look great in group plantings, along garden paths, on the Alpine rollercoaster and, of course, at the shore of the reservoir. In addition, Siberian irises are excellent cut, which makes it possible not only to enjoy them in own garden but also to give others living beauty.

indasad.ru

Siberian iris - planting and care

Siberian irises This is a great choice for gardening. They are completely unpretentious, able to take root on almost any type of soil. This plant also has unique property- their powerful root system literally cleanses the soil where they grow from pathogenic bacteria and fungi, and also improves its fertile characteristics. This article will tell the reader about the features of planting Siberian iris and proper care for it.

General information

Height Siberian irises may differ significantly depending on the variety. Usually it varies from half a meter to one and a half meters, but there are also dwarf subspecies of this plant. The color of Siberian iris flowers can also vary significantly. In the gardens of lovers of these plants, they can be found in purple, blue, violet or yellow color. Sometimes, in addition to the main color, secondary shades may be present on the inflorescence in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe border of the petals, which can be orange or brown. The time when the Siberian iris blooms in the garden passes almost unnoticed, because it is approximately two weeks at the beginning of summer. But even after the end of flowering, this plant looks very decorative due to the lush dark green foliage. Although the flowering of the Siberian iris is not long, the plant looks very impressive during this period, because up to 10-12 flowers can bloom on one bush. We no longer dare to bore the reader with a section devoted to the description of the Siberian iris, and move on to the promised topic, that is, to the peculiarities of growing this plant.

Landing and care

Initially, you should decide on the landing site for irises, because it is not at all easy to transplant them. Yes, and there is nothing, because this plant is able to bloom in one place for up to several decades. A slightly shaded area is optimal, but on condition that the irises are planted no closer than two meters to trees or shrubs. The thing is that their root system is much more powerful than that of the Siberian iris, and from this the latter will constantly suffer from a lack of moisture. Also, gardeners should remember that the opinion about the need for abundant watering of the presented plant is not entirely correct. Of course, irises can withstand even spring floods, but their growth is completely stopped.

After choosing a site, it is recommended to treat it with a good herbicide concentrate to kill weeds. For these purposes, "Hurricane" or "Tornado" is quite suitable, it is better not to be greedy, and use a double dose, because this plant does not tolerate unwanted neighborhood very well. The standard agricultural technique for the reproduction of Siberian irises is the division of old bushes. The best time for this is early spring, when young leaves are just beginning to appear. Acquired iris bushes are recommended to cut a third of the aerial part and rhizomes. Thus, moisture loss will decrease, and the plant will be less sick. Holes for these plants need to be made of such depth,

so that the cut roots do not bend at all. Then they are gradually sprinkled with soil and rammed. After that, the irises are given good watering, and sprinkle a small layer of mulch on top. For watering these plants, it is recommended to use the addition of ferrous sulfate - 30 grams per 10 liters of water. This prevents the soil from becoming acidic. After we figured out how to plant a Siberian iris, you should learn how to properly water the plant. It is best to do this before 10-11 am or after 20:00, then this procedure will bring maximum benefit.

We hope that this article will help you to have irises blooming in your garden next year.

womanadvice.ru

Siberian iris: general description, growing conditions and application

Siberian iris is absolutely unpretentious, winter-hardy and resistant to various diseases. All these positive traits he completely passed on to his offspring. This was appreciated by practical Americans and immediately launched breeding activities for this species. As a result of the work done, a whole galaxy of beautiful varieties of this plant was obtained.

general description

Currently, flower growers all over the world are infatuated with a new variety of irises. Siberian irises, which can be grown in our conditions, are of great interest to amateurs today.

it perennial with a fairly strong root system. It is a misconception that the Siberian iris belongs to bulbous crops. The leaves of these flowers are thin, xiphoid, flat, with a wax coating, usually collected in a bunch in the form of a fan. Roots - fibrous and filamentous, have the ability to improve the structural composition of the soil.

Siberian iris blooms, depending on the variety, up to five days, from May to June. It has a large peduncle, which usually consists of six petals and is distinguished by its elegant shape and rich range of various shades. The outer and inner parts of the flower differ in size, color and shape. The fruits of the iris are long trihedral boxes, the seeds are quite large and ribbed, brown. Their number in one seed box is from 25 to 45 pieces.

Common varieties of irises

bearded iris

This variety got its name due to the presence of outer petals, decorated at the base with stripes of hairs of a contrasting color, which clearly stand out against the background of the flower itself. Bearded irises can be tall, short and medium. The color of their flowers can be blue or purple with the original edging.

Russian iris

This iris grows in low, fairly dense bushes. The flowers of this species are fragrant, medium in size, usually have a lilac or purple color. The advantage of these flowers is that they are suitable for stony soils.

Siberian iris

The height of representatives of this variety is about 1 meter. Siberian iris is quite hardy to temperature extremes. Its leaves are narrow and green, persist until the first frost. The flowers of this iris are predominantly purple or of blue color. All varieties bred on the basis of Siberian iris are united in the section of beardless irises Limniris.

swamp iris

Iris marsh can reach a height of up to one meter. Flowers - yellow color with brownish streaks. The flowering period of this variety is from May to June. He is quite thermophilic, prefers sunny side or penumbra. This type iris grows fast enough. It is mainly used for decorating reservoirs up to 40 cm deep. It tolerates water salinity well.

dwarf iris

This variety was imported from Southern Europe. His maximum height reaches 10 cm. Dwarf iris, when growing, forms medium-sized bushes. It blooms in May with small flowers that have a variety of colors.

Japanese iris

The flower can be small, medium, large or very large. The flower shape of the Japanese iris can be single, double or double. The height of this iris varies, it can be both very short and quite high. According to the flowering time, depending on the variety, early and very late species can be distinguished. The flowers of the Japanese iris have a purple or violet hue. This variety is not hardy.

Growing conditions

Siberian iris prefers to grow on fertile soils. It does not tolerate excess moisture and strong shading. Nitrogen in large doses causes various diseases in this variety. Loamy soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction is suitable for intensive growth.

Application

Since irises are very diverse and decorative, they are used quite widely. These flowers are planted along the shores of artificial reservoirs, planted on alpine hills, and miniature gardens are also created from them.

Highly beautiful combination obtained from irises with poppies, lupins, phlox, peonies and saxifrage. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the fact that irises are not very competitive, therefore, rapidly growing perennials can easily suppress them.

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The ancestor of the group of Siberian irises is a domestic wild species, still found in the Siberian taiga, known for a long time and widely grown in our area. The name "iris", which in Greek means "rainbow", appeared relatively recently, and before that the flower was first called killer whale (kosatnik) - leaves like a braid, and then affectionately and lovingly - killer whale. That's what it's called to this day.

A lot of varieties of Siberian irises have been bred - about a thousand, although the White Swirl variety, bred back in the middle of the last century, is still considered the most famous and best. But the world selection does not stand still, domestic specialists are seriously lagging behind in this regard, and every year many new varieties appear on the international flower market, differing in both color and shape.

Siberian iris: cultivation

Unlike bearded ones, Siberian irises do not have soft bristly outgrowths resembling a beard on the lower petals, which is why they are also called beardless. But their difference from bearded irises not only external, the most important feature of Siberians is their amazing vitality, which allows them to be grown where their more famous relatives would have died long ago from unfavorable conditions. external conditions and diseases.

In terms of flowering, both irises have practically no differences, but in terms of its duration, Siberian irises are preferable.

One flower of the bearded iris lives 1-2 days, while the beardless species do not wither for 4-5 days, and since the group of Siberian irises is divided into early and late species, their total flowering period can be 5-6 weeks.

Only one annoyance! Siberian irises have absolutely no fragrance, but serious work is being done on this problem.

Benefits of Siberian Irises

Bearded irises with their catchy beauty never dreamed of such advantages that Siberians have. After all, in order to grow a spectacular bush of beards, they need to create the most convenient living conditions, first of all - protection from waterlogging and comfortable wintering. Beardless irises are completely unpretentious in this regard.

Firstly, they are absolutely winter-hardy, they can withstand even harsh snowless winters without any shelter.

Secondly, Siberian irises are wind-resistant, do not require bushes to be tied up and do not need barriers.

Thirdly, since in nature irises grow in rather harsh conditions, then in the garden they can withstand infertile soils, shading and excess moisture, and for them, unlike bearded irises, drying of rhizomes is unacceptable.

And finally, fourthly, Siberian irises are extremely resistant to diseases, in particular to bacteriosis, which bearded people often suffer from. Moreover, they are able, due to their powerful root system, to ennoble the soil, so they can be specially planted on lands infected with bacteriosis, in 3-4 years they, if they do not completely rid the site of diseases, then at least significantly weaken them.

Siberian iris: reproduction

Reproduction of iris does not present any difficulties, it occurs by dividing the rhizomes. Usually this is done either in the spring, at the phase of the appearance of the first leaves, or towards the end of July - 2-3 weeks after flowering. The delenki are planted a little deeper compared to bearded irises.

Despite the fact that killer whales have a number of advantages, you should not deny yourself pleasure because of them, grow more demanding species. After all, it’s hard to imagine a real iris garden without large-flowered luxurious bearded hybrids, or elegantly refined Dutch varieties, or sophisticated Japanese varieties ... Try, plant, grow and compare, maybe you will become a fan of one particular species, or maybe you won’t resist the temptation to have everything at once!

© 2010 - 2014, Planting a Garden. All rights reserved.

sazhaemsad.ru

Siberian iris buy in Moscow, photo, cultivation

Iris Siberian forms bushes 70–80 cm high, with narrow, very decorative leaves. The shape of adult bushes resembles a fountain. The flowers are light blue, purple, bloom in May-June (depending on the weather), very beautiful and pleasantly smelling.

Siberian iris

Iris Siberian blue

Siberian irises are hardy and unpretentious plants, resistant to diseases, not requiring shelter for the winter, they are not affected by bacteriosis.

The flowers on high peduncles are medium-sized, excellent in cutting: stand in water for two weeks.

Planting Siberian irises

Siberian iris is planted in sunny places; permissible, but less desirable, light partial shade.

Delenki are planted to a depth of 5–10 cm. They are fed in the same way as bearded irises. You can add top dressing with urea melted snow, and exclude the addition of ash.

Siberian irises are moisture-loving, in hot summer they need watering. Useful mulching plantings.

Siberian iris in garden design

Siberian iris is indispensable for damp, but not marshy areas and is often used as coastal plant. And in the garden there are many worthy companions who will show themselves and emphasize the outstanding qualities of a beautiful flower.

For example, ornamental grass Overdam reedgrass and other grasses combine wonderfully with Siberian iris. Hosta plants will make up a picturesque ensemble with it, where low-growing and textured perennials are planted to the fore: soft cuff, thick-leaved bergenia, rogersia, marigolds, primroses.

Siberian iris is a very sociable plant; against its background, other perennials look even more elegant and presentable: astilbe, astrantia, bathing suits, darmer, kupena, woolly chistets, lungwort, daylilies and lilies.

Reproduction of Siberian irises

Siberian irises multiply seeds, but the main way that preserves the varietal characteristics of the plant is the division of rhizomes. Plants begin to divide from early spring (as soon as the soil thaws) or from mid-August to late October (depending on weather conditions). The leaves are shortened by two-thirds. The seedling should have 3-5 fans. Delenki are planted at a depth of 5-10 cm.

What is the difference between Siberian iris and bearded iris

• Siberian iris has thin rhizomes, bearded iris - wide, tuberous;
• the buds of the Siberian iris are underground, those of the bearded ones are above the soil;
• The Siberian iris does not have a hairy beard at the base of the falls (lower petals), the bearded ones have it.

blumgarden.com

Siberian iris. Growing irises.

Iris Siberian: the modern look of the "Siberian"

Perhaps there is no gardener who would not know about the existence of iris, which has been decorating our gardens since time immemorial. But how many flower growers who prefer to grow bearded irises know about the existence of Siberian irises? Meanwhile, "Siberians" are ideal plants for our gardens. After all, the great-grandfather of modern hybrid varieties - the wild Siberian iris - passed on to his offspring only best qualities: sophistication of forms, unpretentiousness, winter hardiness and resistance to wind, pests and diseases.

Interesting to know: species Iris sibirica (Siberian iris) and the garden group of Siberian irises are not the same thing. The group of garden irises includes hybrids obtained from crossing irises belonging to different types. And the name of the group must be written with a capital letter.

Distinctive feature: unlike bearded irises, Siberian irises are also called “beardless” due to their lack of a beard (soft bristly outgrowths on the lower petals). The flowers of the Siberian irises, reminiscent of bright butterflies fluttering over the foliage, bloom for almost two weeks, while the flowers of the bearded iris - only a couple of days. And if you land early and late varieties Siberian irises, then flowering can last up to one and a half months.

Siberian irises form dense bushes that hold their shape well, look neat and tidy until autumn. They are able to decorate any flower bed, border or shore of a reservoir. The shape of the Siberian iris bush depends on its variety - the leaves can stand upright, fan out, droop.

Modern hybrids of Siberian irises have a wide color scheme, while even in one variety, the color can change during daylight hours - during the day they will prevail purple shades, and by the evening blue will appear.

Landscape designers around the world have long appreciated nice shape bush of Siberian irises, the splendor of their leaves, unpretentiousness and abundance of flowering. (In some modern varieties in adulthood, the number of peduncles can reach 200 pcs.)

They advise planting Siberian irises in mixborders. But be prepared for the fact that over time you will have to protect neighboring plants from the aggressive pressure of the Siberian, since its resistance in plant communities is higher than that of other plants.

In my garden, Siberian irises are wonderfully combined with a catchment, decorative onions, delphiniums, nigella, and a dark orange bathing suit blooming simultaneously with blue Siberian irises looks simply irresistible.

Modern varieties of Siberian iris.

Studying the variety of modern varieties of Siberian irises, it is hard to believe that the work on their selection began only 50 years ago. garden group Siberian irises originated and blood red iris ( Iris sanguinea) and from the species Siberian iris ( Iris sibirica). These species first appeared in Europe in English gardens, and it was there that the first varieties of Siberian irises were obtained in white-blue-lilac tones with a white-yellow spot at the base of the lower petals. Amazingly good iris Cambridge, awarded the Dykes medal - this prize is awarded only to the best, new varieties of bearded irises.

Do you know that…

Siberian iris has been known in horticulture for a long time. Already in XVI in breeders began to bring out its cultural forms. And wild relatives of plants gained popularity much earlier. In Crete, drawings of this flower are found dating back to the third millennium BC! AT Ancient Rome Siberian iris was depicted on mosaics. In Europe, kings and nobles insprucethe Moji decorated their family coats of arms with it. By the way,in coat of arms pre-revolutionary France in fact, not liliesand stylized iris flowers.

Currently, the selection of Siberian irises is actively engaged in the United States. Amazingly beautiful varieties with pink, black-violet, and also “marble” color were obtained there. Varieties Hot Sketch and Sugar Rush are almost red, while Tom Schaefer, Haleakala, for example, are yellow. Two-color varieties look very exotic - So Van Goch, Pennywhistle, Banish Misfortun and varieties with flowers brown tones, with complex color overlay -Sarah Tiffney, Humors of Whiske

According to the shape of the flower, Siberian irises can be divided into several groups: three- and six-petal, multi-petal, as well as terry, with corrugated perianth lobes, like the raspberry variety Strawberry Fair. In some varieties, the flowers are simply gigantic - more than 25 cm - and look like painted saucers.

How to choose the right rhizome of Siberian iris?

Varietal Siberian irises are sold in parts of the rhizome. It often happens that after planting, the iris seems to start growing, and then it dies anyway. What is the reason? This is due to diseases of the rhizome, which can only be seen in the cut. When buying, you must carefully examine, feel the plant: it must be dense, without traces of rot. Give your plant exceptional care in the first year of life - plant it in a greenhouse, cover it in anticipation of cold weather. By extending the warm season, you will enable the plants to get stronger and take root well.

Siberian iris. Landing.

Siberian irises have a powerful root system, going into the ground to a depth of half a meter, so plant them in fertile, deeply cultivated soil on open places. It is a mistake to think that Siberian irises shade-loving plants. For abundant, colorful flowering, irises should receive a maximum sunlight, otherwise flowering will be sparse and transient. A good place would be the shore of a reservoir, irises grow best in moist soil, the main thing is to plant an iris so that the growth point is above the water level. Try not to plant irises next to trees and shrubs with a powerful root system, they will inhibit the development of Siberian irises. The optimal distance from them is 1.5-2 m. When planting new varieties, consider the shape of their leaves, since a bush with fountain-like foliage will require more space than with upright foliage. Deepen the rhizome into the soil by 5-7 cm, and mulch after planting. The distance between plants is 50 cm.

Siberian iris. Care

Simple varieties of Siberian irises do not require special care, at minimal cost strength and time you will always have a beautiful and plentiful flowering plant. But if you want to grow modern hybrids that are distinguished by sophistication and even pretentiousness, then caring for them will be more difficult. These varieties overwinter worse and do not always bloom profusely. Some varieties bloom in a year, skipping periods of flowering, and even bloom in the 4th year. In the first year after planting, the shade and shape of the flower may not match the variety. This applies especially to terry varieties, most often they form semi-double or simple flowers.

Watering. Siberian irises are moisture-loving, especially during the flowering period. They prefer rare, but plentiful watering, well moisturizing the soil.

Mulching. Unlike bearded irises, "Siberians" are recommended to be mulched. For this purpose, rotted sawdust, pine needles, and bark are perfect. The mulch will create a better environment for the new roots to grow.

Top dressing. Start feeding Siberian irises the next year after planting. In the spring, apply a complex mineral fertilizer with a complete set of trace elements. Before flowering, you can make two more top dressings - mineral, the same as in spring, and organic (manure infusion). If May is cold, it is better to use foliar top dressing.

Removal of peduncles with boxes. Siberian irises easily set seeds and self-sow, so it is important to remove flower stalks with boxes in a timely manner. If you do not do this before the seeds ripen and sow, then in a couple of years you will find “degenerate” irises in this place.

Of the pests and diseases, perhaps the main threat to irises is the caterpillars of the scoop butterfly. They gnaw the bases of leaves and flower stalks. To destroy caterpillars, use preventive treatment from caterpillars in spring.

Do you know that…

In ancient times, roasted toffee seeds were an expensive delicacy: they made a drink similar to coffee.

Wintering iris. In autumn, after the first frosts (but not before!) cut the foliage to a height of 15-20 cm: in many modern varieties, powerful leaves and flower stalks do not have time to rot over the winter, and it will be difficult for new shoots to break through last year's straw in spring. It is desirable to additionally mulch and spud planting of new varieties.

Iris transplant. Bushes of Siberian irises grow quite actively, and always bloom profusely, while they do not have to be divided for regular flowering. Over time, they grow into huge curtains with a diameter of up to 2.5 m and can bloom even at the age of 25.

Reproduction of Siberian iris

New varieties of Siberian irises are propagated only by segments of rhizomes 1.5 months after flowering, in the second or third decade of August. At this time, new roots begin to grow in irises, and before the onset of cold weather, the plant will have time to take root well. In extreme cases, you can divide the irises in the spring, at the very beginning of the growing season. Before digging, shorten the leaves, leaving 10-15 cm from the base . When dividing the rhizome, it is preferable to break than to cut. A good division should have at least three leaf fans and a dense rhizome without any trace of rot. If the planting material is too dry, it must be soaked for several days in water. Add a couple of drops of Ecosil to the water. It is almost impossible to save a delenka that has been propped up.

irises(family Iris) justify their second name: "northern orchids". There will be no problems with their cultivation, given the basic wishes of these plants. And since all irises are different, the conditions for their cultivation cannot be the same. ideal conditions for all types of irises does not exist. Understanding what is suitable for a particular iris will be easier if you compare the agricultural practices of four groups: bearded, Siberian, marsh and bulbous irises.

What do the "bearded" need?

"Bearded" - the most numerous group of irises. They have a characteristic beard.

Place. Bearded irises can be planted in a sunny place and in partial shade. From bright sunlight, the color of the flowers may fade, and the flowering period may become shorter. With a little shading, flowering is always longer. There will be no quality flowers in the shade, leaves will grow, and luxurious flowers are unlikely to appear. Irises need loose and light soil (loamy or sandy loam) with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Acidic soils are not suitable. The composition and structure of the soil can be adjusted by adding sand, peat and wood ash. Manure, especially fresh, is contraindicated.

Watering. For bearded irises (especially undersized ones), excessive moisture is dangerous: the rhizome often rots from it. Planting in flowerbeds or low beds will save you from waterlogging. When caring for bearded irises, it is better not to get carried away with frequent watering.

Top dressing. Bearded irises are fertilized with mineral fertilizers as follows: nitrogen and potassium are added in the spring, and phosphorus and potassium are added a month after the end of flowering. Wood ash is a good top dressing.

Reproduction and planting. Usually bearded irises are propagated by divisions. When buying, you should try to examine the contents of the transparent package as detailed as possible. Do not take dried or moldy rhizomes.

Often neighbors share planting material. They cut off with a shovel or a sharp knife part of the rhizome of the bearded iris with a fan of leaves. Leaves are shortened in delenki (at least 1/3), and the roots are left about 7 cm long. It is noticed that a young iris blooms more readily when there are 5-7 leaves in its fan. Delenki are planted at a distance of at least 40 cm from each other. Then they have enough space for 5 - 6 years. After a couple of weeks, the irises take root and begin to grow.

And one more important point: when transporting, the delenki must be wrapped in a dry, dense cloth or paper, and not in polyethylene or in a wet cloth. A slightly dried rhizome is more viable than moldy or rotten in a plastic bag (in a wet rag).

When planting, the rhizome is deepened so that the back remains partially open. Its position will soon be firmly fixed by new roots. Bearded irises (especially undersized ones) endure planting and transplanting even at the time of flowering.

Preparing for winter. In autumn, with the beginning of autumn frosts, all leaves should be cut to one third of their length. In order for bearded irises not to freeze, they are covered with a 10-cm layer of soil, well-decomposed humus, or insulated with other means (dry leaves, straw, sawdust, etc.). In the spring, all "insulation" is removed.

In a cool summer, some new varieties (often foreign selection) do not have time to prepare for flowering the next year. The result is irregular flowering. Species irises and old varieties are more reliable.

Siberian irises are different

Siberian irises are only mastering our flower beds, while they are less common than "bearded ones". With good care, even overgrown 25-year-old bushes look good.

Place. Siberian irises are planted in an open sunny place; they do not bloom well in the shade. The soil must be nutritious. Clay, peat and compost are added to it. Siberian irises suffer greatly from lime, the foliage turns yellow from it. Better to add peat.

Watering."Siberians" are moisture-loving. They are watered abundantly. Required during the period of budding and flowering. The rhizome should not dry out, without watering it may die.

Fertilizers. Siberian irises need less mineral fertilizers than bearded irises. More important is the ability to acidify the soil. Therefore, fertilizers for rhododendrons are suitable. Top dressing with ashes for Siberian irises will do more harm than good.

Reproduction and planting. planting material from drying out loses its qualities. Too long stagnation of water is also harmful. Siberian irises reproduce by seeds (bloom for 3-4 years) and division of bushes. Need to be removed seed pods so that self-seeding does not appear. When planting, a small bunch of leaves with a piece of rhizome (“heel”) is often used. Delenka bigger size blooms the next year. When planting, the rhizome is deepened by 5–8 cm, then the soil is mulched with peat or compost. It is better to divide the bush not in the spring, but from mid-August to the end of September. It should be borne in mind that varieties with double flowers often produce single or semi-double flowers in the first year. Many varieties of Siberian irises grow rapidly, so they are planted "for growth": 70 - 100 cm from each other.

In a new place, Siberian irises grow well without a transplant for up to 10 years. It is necessary to add soil to the base of the old bushes of Siberian irises so that the rhizome does not appear on the surface of the earth.

Preparing for winter. Siberian irises are quite winter-hardy, so their rhizomes do not need to be insulated for the winter. Just a few gentle modern varieties it is better to cover with spruce branches or a layer of leaves. Before winter, all leaves are cut at ground level. Some amateur flower growers believe that this is best done in early spring.

swamp irises

Marsh (yellow, air-shaped) irises are unpretentious. They grow well in wetlands and flower beds. There is a variegated form that has decorative look in the first half of summer, from the second half of summer the striping of the leaves becomes less noticeable.

Place. Swamp irises grow well in full sun and shade. Best on slightly acidic soils.

Watering. Marsh iris is well suited to abundant watering, it can grow even with partial flooding (by 20 - 30 cm). Temporary drying of the soil does not kill the plant, but affects the quality of flowering.

Fertilizers. Swamp iris, which grows on land, is fertilized with compounds intended for rhododendrons.

Reproduction and planting. Marsh irises reproduce by seeds and delenki. Seeds are sown in autumn to a depth of 1.5 - 2 cm. We must not forget about the ability of iris to weed, to give a lot of self-sowing. In spring, mass shoots of seedlings with a powerful root system appear. Delenki are planted at a distance of at least 70 cm.

Preparing for winter. AT autumn period remove dried and shorten drying leaves. This winter-hardy plant does not require shelter for the winter.

Lots of bulbous irises. The most popular are junos, xifiums and iridodictiums. There are many primroses among bulbous irises. They bloom in April when the snow begins to melt.

Place. Bulbous irises are planted in sunny and semi-shady places. Suitable for any light soil. On heavy clay soils oh, and in those places where melt water stagnates, bulbous irises disappear. Too greasy manure soils are also not suitable for them. When choosing a place, keep in mind that these plants are not always able to break through the thickness of the lawn turf. It is advisable to remember or somehow designate the places where bulbous irises grow.

Watering. Watering is moderate; for bulbous irises, stagnant water is fatal.

Fertilizers. Do not get carried away with the introduction of nitrogenous fertilizers. Fresh manure is contraindicated.

Reproduction and planting. When buying bulbs, it is important to pay attention to the supplier, more precisely, to the country of delivery. I “ran up” several times with onions from Spain.

Bulbous irises are dug up as soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow. They are planted in the period. Special baskets simplify the care of these irises. When planting, the bulbs are planted to a depth of about 5 - 6 cm, placing them on a sand cushion. Some irises can be left without transplanting for four years or more. Our bulbous irises have been growing without transplantation for more than eight years.

Preparing for winter. Bulbous irises are quite cold-resistant. Many of them are absolutely not afraid of spring frosts. But in winter they sometimes freeze out, so it is better to insulate the place of their landing with spruce branches (or in another way). It is worth saying that if it is chosen successfully, then there should be no problems with freezing.

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Siberian irises are a separate section in the Iris family. They are obtained as a result of intraspecific selection and hybridization.

In the garden classification, the group of Siberian irises is divided into ordinary Siberian, Sino-Siberian and California-Siberian. The agricultural technique of growing Siberian irises has a number of differences from the cultivation of bearded species.

Growing flowers Siberian irises

The colors of Siberian irises are magnificent ornamental plants, valuable not only for their flowers, but also for foliage that remains healthy and beautiful throughout the summer. Among the Siberian irises there are varieties that amaze with their beauty so that one flower is enough to stare at it. But at the same time, there are varieties that are distinguished by an abundance of flowering.

Their flowers may not be as expressive, but the flowering bush leaves a lasting impression, such as the variety ‘Shaker’s Praer’.

A common misconception is that Siberian irises are shade loving. In fact, they need to choose a place where they can get maximum sunlight. A good place is the bank of a pond, where the roots of the irises can be constantly wet, and at the same time the growth points of the rhizomes will be noticeably above the water level.

Close proximity to trees and shrubs with a powerful, aggressive root system should also be avoided. The optimal distance from them is 1.5-2 m. Siberians prefer deeply and thoroughly cultivated soil with a slightly acidic reaction. Drained soils are desirable. An important element compost is used in soil preparation. Although Siberian irises easily tolerate spring floods, prolonged stagnant water during the dormant period can be detrimental to them.

The planting time for Siberian irises is great importance. In the north optimal time planting may turn out to be spring after the snow melts, and in the south, where spring drought sets in quickly, it will be preferable autumn planting. AT middle lane the optimal period lasts from early August to mid-September. The rooting of Siberian irises is a long process, and the next year after transplantation, they never bloom, and often the first flowering occurs when a sufficiently powerful bush has formed. Accordingly, without a transplant, Siberian irises successfully grow and bloom much longer than bearded ones.

After planting, when caring for bearded irises, mineral supplements are usually not required for young plants. Old bushes can be fed before the appearance of flower stalks with complex fertilizer, preferably of an acidic composition. At the same time, do not allow direct contact of dry fertilizer granules with growing green shoots. Siberian irises are recommended year-round mulching of the soil, especially it is necessary immediately after planting. The ideal mulch should be easily permeable. It can serve as pine needles, crushed bark, wood chips of deciduous trees.

Siberian irises easily set seeds and are capable of self-sowing, so it is important to remove flower stalks with boxes in a timely manner. Preparation for winter consists in pruning brown and dead leaves and peduncles. Leaves should not be cut off - this can damage the bush.

When caring for bearded irises, hilling adult bushes for the winter is not required, but it is advisable to do this in the first winter after planting. Plants that do not have time to take root properly can be squeezed to the surface and suffer from frost.

Diseases are not a big problem for Siberians. Soft rot is not terrible for Siberian irises, so the use of nitrogen fertilizers can not be limited.

Many gardeners prefer to use Siberian irises in mixborders, and for this role they are ideal, as their resistance in plant communities is much higher than other irises. In garden design, Siberian irises combine wonderfully with daylilies, columbine, lilies, delphiniums, aconite, and joint landing Ledebour's dark orange bathing suit, blooming at the same time as the blue Siberian irises, will not leave anyone indifferent.

Plant varieties Siberian irises

The range of varieties of Siberian irises has reached a great diversity. There are early varieties that bloom in mid-May, for example ‘China Spring’ (‘China Spring’).

And late, blooming in July, ‘Ester CDM’ (‘Esther CAM’) and ‘Chartreuse Bounty’ (‘Chartreuse Bounty’). But in general, the flowering of Siberian irises immediately follows the flowering of tall bearded irises. Some varieties, such as ‘Reprise’ (‘Reprise’), give re-flowering as early as two weeks after the end of the first flowering. There is also a full row in height - from 30 cm to 1.5 m.

Of the dwarfs, let's call 'Little Blue' ('Little Blue').

And among the high ones - 'Adolf Svoboda' ('Adolf Freedom') and 'Shaker's Praer' ('Shakers Preyer').

For landscape design still remains unsurpassed old variety‘Caesar’s Brother’ (‘Nezars Brader’).

602. Why did bearded irises stop blooming?

Most likely due to root rot. Dig up the irises in August, cut out the rotten part, wash the cut with a strong solution of manganese and plant again, you can even in the same place, changing the soil and watering just in case new land a strong solution of manganese or Fitosporin. Bearded (Germanic) hybrid irises do not tolerate acidic soils at all. In addition, they are big lovers of calcium and potassium. Every spring, bring at least a glass of ash under them (in front of a fan of leaves), but it is better to feed them with calcium and potassium nitrate (1 tablespoon of each of the fertilizers per 10 liters of water).

603. Where, when and how to plant bearded (Germanic) irises? Irises prefer a sunny location. In the shade they get sick powdery mildew and leaf rust. They also love sand and granite stones or large pebbles. So plant them among the rocks.

604. I heard that the back of the rhizome of the iris cannot be covered with soil. Why? The back of the rhizome must be freed from the soil after frost, it must be bare. But in the fall, when the temperature drops below 5–6 ° C, the back must be covered with soil, otherwise the iris will freeze and then it will not bloom.

605. My irises give a small fan of leaves, but do not bloom. Why? The fan of leaves must be at least 7 leaves. If less, then the plant is weak and does not have enough strength to bloom. Feed with potassium and calcium (1 tablespoon of each per 10 liters of water per 1 square meter of plantings).

606. Is it necessary to cover irises for the winter? Watching where. In regions with frosty winters, without thaws and with a large snow cover, they only need to be slightly piled up with peat or earth, and in the spring, after the snow melts, they should be immediately unpacked. In regions such as the North-West or Primorye, where winter thaws often occur, and then frosts without snow, irises must be covered for the winter. It is best to make a dry shelter, the same as for roses or clematis. But you can just sprinkle it with dry peat and cover it with a cap in the form of a bag of roofing felt. To prevent the cap from falling, its edges are covered with soil. Do not cover the iris too early, it can rot.

607. Is it necessary to prune irises in autumn? Necessarily. The fan of leaves is cut off, leaving about 10 cm of greenery.

608. How to propagate bearded iris? The division of the root neck (tail behind a fan of leaves). Iris is dug up in August, cleaned of rotting fragments of the neck, disinfected in a solution of manganese and divided into parts (each fragment of the neck has dormant buds, from which leaves will grow). Then they sit down. Since the iris "creeps" forward, leave enough room for it to grow. By the way, top dressing should be done only in front, since it has no sucking roots from the side of the neck.

609. How do Siberian irises differ from Germanic (bearded) irises?

Many. Firstly, Siberian irises (by the way, marsh irises too) quite calmly tolerate acidic and, moreover, slightly acidic soils. Secondly, they do not tolerate calcium, so they cannot be fed with calcium nitrate and ash. They will stop blooming. Both types of these irises do not suffer from rhizome rot, as they have natural immunity against this fungus, which causes Fusarium rot. Siberian and marsh irises are quite reconciled with penumbra, and marsh - even with a shadow. Thirdly, they do not form a jointed neck. The rhizome mainly grows upwards in the Siberian and grows in all directions in the swamp. And finally, they are much more winter hardy.

Swamp iris blooms with yellow, plain-looking flowers, and Siberian iris usually - blue, similar to bearded flowers, only much smaller. Large breeding work over the enlargement of the flowers of the Siberian iris and the change in their color.

610. Why did the Siberian iris stop blooming? Either you fed it with a fertilizer containing calcium (for example, ash), or it has grown too much, the rhizome has stuck out of the soil and freezes, and therefore new adventitious roots do not form. Perhaps the iris has been growing for many years without a transplant, or you forget to pile it up in the fall, and the growing rhizome does not form new adventitious roots. Iris should be dug up, cut off part of the rhizome and planted. This should be done every 5-6 years, in August.

611. Is it necessary to cut off the aerial parts of Siberian irises in autumn? You can not do this, the leaves will cover the rhizome, and it will overwinter well. But in early spring, dried leaves must be cut off, otherwise they will interfere with the normal growth of new ones. Swamp and Siberian irises do not require shelter for the winter.

612. Do Japanese irises grow in the Northwest? Only two varieties grow and bloom: Vasily Alferov and Altai. Both have blue-violet flowers, but Vasily Alferov has white circles on the petals.

613. What is the difference between Japanese irises and bearded irises and how to care for them? Japanese ones are even less frost-resistant than bearded German ones. All six petals of the flower are bent to a horizontal position, and the cup of the flower looks directly into the sky. Requirements for growing conditions and care for Japanese irises are the same as for German ones. For the winter they should be piled up, and in the spring they should be unpacked. Divided once every 5-6 years, in August, cutting the rhizome into pieces. The Japanese ones don't have necks like the bearded ones. If they are not planted for a long time, they stop blooming.

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Irises, often called orchids by gardeners, are no longer a novelty for us. Gardens commonly grow numerous varieties of large-flowered bearded irises, so named for the beard-like soft, bristly outgrowths on the lower petals.

But bearded irises are southerners by origin, and therefore it is not easy to grow them: they are not frost-resistant enough, they are prone to rot, and they are demanding on the landing site and care. Recently, flower growers all over the world have been gripped by a literally craze for a fundamentally new "type" of irises - champions in vitality, united under the collective name "Siberian irises". They also came to our country, turned out to be very suitable for the local places that are far from the most comfortable for floriculture, and are of increasing interest to lovers of decorative floriculture.

Group name «» gave our domestic wild species of Siberian iris, which is one of the main ancestors of already numerous varieties of this type. The people of Siberian iris have long been affectionately called "kosatik" (leaves like a scythe), "kosatnik", then - "killer whale". The word "iris" (translated from Greek - rainbow) appeared in Russia only at the end of the 19th century, which is why, by the way, garden irises are still often called "irises".

The Siberian wild iris, like a true Siberian, is absolutely winter-hardy, unpretentious, resistant to diseases, and he fully passes these qualities on to his offspring. This was appreciated by pragmatic Americans, and while our flower growers diversified only varieties of bearded irises, they launched work on the selection of Siberian iris. The result exceeded all expectations, and now a whole galaxy of magnificent varieties has been obtained. But this did not happen immediately and not suddenly.

Work with Siberian iris began at the end of the century before last. At first, things somehow did not go well, and by 1900 only 17 varieties were registered. After the creation in 1957 of one of the best varieties to this day - White Swirl, in the selection of Siberian iris, it was as if some kind of high-speed conveyor started working, annually producing dozens of new varieties, the number of which today, probably, has already approached a thousand.

Unlike bearded irises, Siberian irises, due to their lack of a beard, are usually called beardless. But the point is not so much in this difference, but in a completely different appearance and decorative properties of the plant itself. Siberian iris, even in its original form, is so beautiful that experienced flower growers have long decorated gardens with its forms. A pair of tall lush Siberian bushes with beautifully curving narrow leaves and graceful flowers, as it were, floating above them, also grows in my garden. Once I brought them from the Siberian taiga. And what hasn’t happened to them over these few decades: they survived all the frosty winters, and flooded them, and under the scythe in a dense cover of dreams fell more than once, and even the poor fellows, I confess, didn’t see - all hands did not reach. And they bloom every year, delighting with the grace of flowers, reminiscent of bright, tropical butterflies fluttering over the green foliage.

But the color of wild Siberian iris flowers varies only within violet-blue. To diversify it, breeders crossed Siberian view iris with other species and varieties that are also in this group and also beardless, and created the color of all the colors of the rainbow, except for red. There are varieties with multi-colored petals, and with bright borders, and with feathery patterns.

The timing of the start of flowering of Siberian irises is not much different from the usual ones. But one of its flowers lives 4-5 days, while bearded flowers - only 1-2 days. This determines the long duration of flowering of Siberians: the flowering period of one plant with non-branching two-flowered peduncles is approximately 10 days, with branching ones it is even longer. Since there are early and late varieties, the total flowering period reaches six weeks. But the flowers do not have any smell, and this is now the "headache" of breeders seeking to create aromatic varieties.

Due to the high, up to one and a half meters, and slender peduncles, a fairly long flower life and ease of arrangement in bouquets, unlike large-flowered ones, Siberian irises are good for cutting.

But still, the fashion for Siberian irises was determined not only by their wonderful decorative properties, and, above all, more reliable cultivation compared to conventional irises.

Bearded irises are capricious: they bloom only in a sunny place, they do not withstand clay soils, and even more so - excessive moisture, in winter they can rot under the snow, and freeze without snow, they require some shelter. For years, they may not bloom, and only because somewhere else in their infancy, their flower-bearing shoot was damaged, and often it is not laid at all due to lack of summer heat. Their worst enemy is bacteriosis, also called wet rot, which is why they not only rot, but often die in whole plantations.

Siberian irises do not know any of these troubles. Their most important advantage is high resistance to low temperatures. Because of this, they not only bloom annually in regions where bearded irises have long been traditionally cultivated, but can also be grown in more northern areas.

No less valuable is the resistance of Siberians to the scourge of bearded irises - bacteriosis, and therefore they do not know rot. In addition, with their powerful root system, they improve the soil, and therefore they are even specially planted on a site infected with bacteriosis for 3-4 years in order to weaken the detrimental effect of the disease on the planting of bearded irises planned here in the future.

Siberian irises are also attractive for their wind resistance, which is why their flower stalks, unlike bearded ones, do not need a garter. They reproduce easily and grow quickly.

In the wild, the Siberian iris grows in damp, “uncomfortable” places, therefore, in culture, the varieties derived from it are able to grow safely and bloom profusely in semi-shady, moist places in the garden and far from the very fertile soil, but the rhizomes do not withstand drying.

Siberian iris is propagated by division of rhizomes. This can be done in spring at the beginning of leaf growth or in summer, two to three weeks after flowering. Delenki are planted, in comparison with bearded irises, deeper.

It is very sad that our domestic flower in an updated form, represented by excellent varieties, comes to our gardens from abroad, and not from domestic breeders. Unfortunately, even the work that had just begun with him was practically stopped. But, as usually happens in such cases, true enthusiasts become collectors, keepers and propagandists of new promising plants.

It would be a mistake to refuse the usual, albeit capricious, but extraordinarily exotically beautiful bearded irises. Plant both plants in your garden, and soon you will be able to decide for yourself what and in what ratio to leave in the flower beds.

Irina Isaeva, Doctor of Agricultural Sciences, Moscow www.sad.ru