Rainbow in the garden - varieties of irises with photos and names. Bearded irises

Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics in the canopy flowering trees have long become an integral attribute of welcoming spring in the country rising sun. The financial and academic year here begins on April 1, when the magnificent cherry blossoms bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese take place under the sign of their flowering. But sakura also grows well in cooler regions - certain species can be successfully grown even in Siberia.

I am very interested in analyzing how people's tastes and preferences for certain foods have changed over the centuries. What was once considered tasty and was an object of trade, lost its value over time and, conversely, new fruit crops conquered their markets. Quince has been cultivated for more than 4 thousand years! And even in the 1st century B.C. e. About 6 varieties of quince were known, and even then methods of its propagation and cultivation were described.

We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply easy-to-prepare dish for you today. This sauce is one hundred percent universal, as it goes with every side dish: vegetables, pasta, or anything. Chicken and mushroom gravy will save you in moments when you don’t have time or don’t want to think too much about what to cook. Take your favorite side dish (you can do this in advance so everything is hot), add some gravy and dinner is ready! A real lifesaver.

Agriculture is one of those types of human activity, the successful outcome of which is not always directly proportional to the efforts made. Unfortunately, nature does not necessarily act as our ally when growing plants, and often, on the contrary, even throws up new challenges. Increased reproduction of pests, abnormal heat, late return frosts, hurricane winds, drought... And one of the springs gave us another surprise - a flood.

With the arrival of the dacha season, the question arises of growing strong and healthy seedlings our favorite vegetables: cabbage, tomatoes, sweet peppers, eggplants and many other crops. At the same time, the question arises - how to grow decent seedlings and subsequently get healthy plants and a decent harvest from them? For example, I have been growing seedlings for several seasons now and protecting my garden from diseases with the help of biological preparations Alirin-B, Gamair, Glyokladin, Trichocin.

Let me confess my love today. In love with... lavender. One of the best unpretentious, evergreen and beautiful flowering shrubs, which can be successfully grown in your garden. And if anyone thinks that lavender is a Mediterranean or at least southern resident, then you are mistaken. Lavender grows well in more northern regions, even in the Moscow region. But to grow it, you need to know some rules and features. About them and we'll talk In this article.

Once you have tried such an invaluable product as pumpkin, it is difficult to stop searching for new recipes for serving it to the table. Korean pumpkin, despite its pungency and spiciness, has a fresh and delicate taste. After cooking, you will need to cover the salad and let it sit for at least 15 minutes. butternut squash very juicy and sweet, so there is no need to mash it. If the pumpkin is of a different variety, you can mash it with your hands so that it slightly releases the juice.

Salad, like the earliest and most unpretentious green culture, has always been held in high esteem by gardeners. Most gardeners usually start spring planting by sowing lettuce, parsley and radishes. Recently, the desire for healthy eating and a large selection of greens in supermarkets have forced gardeners to think about which of these plants can be grown in their beds? In this article we will talk about nine of the most interesting, in our opinion, varieties of salad.

The flowering of indoor roses always comes with one more “bonus” - capriciousness. When they say that it is easy to grow roses in rooms, they are lying. For flowering indoor roses literally needs to be created ideal conditions. And constant care, attention and response to any plant signals is the main key to success. True, no matter how capricious roses may be, they can be grown quite successfully in a potted format. And attentive flower growers should not be afraid of this.

Pollock is best prepared as a casserole, separating the fillet from the skin and bones. Pieces of fish are mixed with a colorful assortment of vegetables and topped with a sauce of cheese, sour cream and eggs. This fish casserole has a presentable appearance, and its taste is a bizarre mixture of subtle nuances. Vegetables and fillets will be soaked in sour cream, the cheese will harden into a golden brown crust, and the eggs will bind all the ingredients together. Pieces of fish are generously sprinkled with Italian herbs, and pollock acquires an unusual piquancy.

Despite the fact that calendar spring begins in March, you can truly feel the awakening of nature only with the advent of flowering plants in the garden. Nothing signals the arrival of spring as eloquently as clearings of blooming primroses. Their appearance is always a small celebration, because winter has receded and a new gardening season awaits us. But, besides spring primroses, there is still something to see and admire in the garden in the month of April.

Rapidly growing and turning into wild thickets, hogweed disrupts the existing ecosystem and suppresses all other plants. Essential oils contained in the fruits and leaves of hogweed cause severe forms of dermatitis. At the same time, it is much more difficult to control than other common weeds. Fortunately, today a product has appeared on the market that can short term rid your area of ​​most weeds, including hogweed.

Carrots come in different colors: orange, white, yellow, purple. Orange carrots are dominated by beta-carotene and lycopene, the yellow color is due to the presence of xanthophylls (lutein); White carrots have a lot of fiber, and purple ones contain anthocyanin, beta and alpha carotenes. But, as a rule, gardeners choose carrot varieties for sowing not by the color of the fruit, but by the timing of their ripening. We will tell you about the best early, middle and late varieties in this article.

We recommend a fairly easy pie recipe with a delicious chicken and potato filling. An open pie with chicken and potatoes is an excellent hearty dish that is suitable for a hearty snack; it is very convenient to take a couple of pieces of this pastry on the road. The pie is baked in the oven for one hour at 180 degrees. After this, we lay it out on a wooden surface, having first released it from the mold. It is enough to slightly cool the baked goods and you can start tasting.

When choosing bearded irises to grow on your site, first of all, decide on the size. The fact is that these flowers differ in their height: there are bearded irises that grow up to 70 cm, and there are also those that rise above the ground no higher than 5 cm. The best varieties Bearded irises must meet certain requirements, you will learn about them by reading this material.

Medium-sized, tall and miniature bearded irises

Bearded irises are the largest group of irises, consisting of several classes.

Tall bearded irises (TV)- powerful plants with a height of 71 cm with a branched peduncle, many buds and large flowers, sometimes up to 20 cm in diameter. In the Moscow region they bloom from mid-June to early July.

Medium-sized bearded irises (MB) - from 41 to 70 cm in height, are in turn divided into three groups:

• border irises (BB) with a flowering period similar to tall bearded ones, but with a proportionally smaller flower;
• intermedia irises (IB) with a flower size of 10-13 cm and a flowering period in the Moscow region from the beginning of June; not necessarily highly branched, but forming a profusely flowering bush;
• table, or miniature tall bearded irises (MTB) - with a tall thin branched peduncle and relatively small (no wider than 8 cm) flowers, used mostly for bouquets and tables, which is where their name comes from.

Standard Bearded Dwarfs (SDB)- 21-40 cm high, in the Moscow region they bloom from the end of May.

Miniature Bearded Dwarfs (MDB)- the smallest, the height of such bearded irises is 5-20 cm. These flowers bloom very early (in the Moscow region from the first half of May).

Requirements for tall bearded irises

The modern tall bearded iris is a striking flower! Any person who sees it is fascinated by its beauty and is extremely surprised when he learns that growing luxurious irises is no more difficult than any other garden flowers or even vegetables in the garden. Perhaps there are so many erroneous opinions about any crop that many, even very experienced gardeners, are wary of it, usually contrasting new varieties with old ones. And it’s completely in vain: among modern varieties there are plenty of those that can bloom reliably and regularly in the middle zone and even have some advantage in resistance to the adversities of our harsh climate compared to historical varieties. Therefore, it is undoubtedly worth striving to acquire new varieties. But the main advantage of the new varieties is that they are immeasurably more beautiful than the old ones.

The progress in breeding flowers of tall bearded irises is amazing. The main attention is paid to the flower, because even just one flower - whether it grows in the garden or stands in a vase - can captivate the imagination of a gardener and make him fall in love forever. Until now, new color combinations and exquisite color patterns are appearing, instantly gaining immense popularity. But, despite all the achievements in expanding the color range of irises, the main attention is paid to the quality of the flower.

Flower quality means:

• wide, sometimes interlocking halyards and closed standards at the base, making the flower collected, rounded and expressive;
• the density of the texture of the petals, ensuring resistance to precipitation and more long term life of a flower;
• grace and uniformity of corrugation of shares;
• width, density and expressiveness of the beards.

An example of excellent flower quality is 'Paris Fashion' by Keith Keppel. Giant flowers also require peduncles proportional to their size - tall, strong, resistant to gusts of wind. To ensure that the opening flowers do not interfere with each other, they must be “spaced” on sufficiently long branches, and in order to ensure a long flowering period, there must be a large number of buds in the inflorescence.

Particularly attractive are the so-called exhibition varieties that have 3-5 simultaneously open flowers on the peduncle.

Considerable attention is also paid to the garden attractiveness of the iris - the health of the foliage, the rapid growth of the bush and the representativeness of its flowering, when the optimal number of peduncles on the bush is approximately equal to half the number of leaf fans.

Of particular interest are those varieties whose bushes do not shoot flower stalks simultaneously, but over a period of time, ensuring exceptionally long flowering. Remontant varieties have a long flowering period.

At correct selection varieties, the flowering of tall bearded irises lasts for 50 days.

The main requirement for iris varieties for cultivation in the northern regions is growth energy, which makes it possible to compensate for many other shortcomings of the plant. The next most important quality is frost resistance. The ability to withstand low temperatures in winter is related to the rhythm of plant development. Irises, whose growth ends by the end of summer and the leaves die off, overwinter much better and, therefore, their flower buds are not damaged in harsh winters.

Tall bearded irises are a very heat-loving crop. Thus, in the Moscow region and to the north, only 20% of the varieties grow successfully from their total number. Therefore, my advice to amateur gardeners is to be interested first of all in its frost resistance when purchasing.

Resistance to fungal and bacterial diseases is another important quality. Resistance to bacteriosis and heterosporiosis ensures healthy foliage, decorative planting and regular flowering.

The standard planting unit for bearded irises is usually an annual growth of iris rhizomes. In the middle zone they reach acceptable sizes by early August. This is the reason for the recommended planting period - the first half of August, however, good results can be obtained if planted before the beginning of September.

Which rhizomes are best to take for planting: large or small, annual (short) or biennial (long)? The answer to this question depends on your goals: if by all means you want to see an iris flower the next year after planting, choose a large rhizome with a wide fan of 6-8 leaves. If flowering next year is not important to you, but the reliability of overwintering and the survival rate of the plant are paramount, choose a medium-sized one or two-year-old rhizome with a diameter of 2-2.5 cm, with 3-4 leaves.

Agricultural technology for growing bearded irises: planting and care

The agricultural technology for growing bearded irises depends on the purposes of their cultivation, so it is impossible to give any universal scheme. Some grow irises by planting and annually digging up planting material, usually for sale. Others plant irises to decorate the garden in a border, mixborder, rockery or on a rocky hill, where it is advisable not to touch them for several years.

The most important factors for successful growing are light and drainage. Do not forget also that irises are heat-loving plants. The more sun irises receive in the garden, the better they bloom. A little shade in the morning or evening is, of course, acceptable, but only some varieties of irises, such as the intermedia ‘In a Flash’, will withstand more serious shade. Southern slopes are preferable to northern ones; a place near the southern wall of the building would also be good. It is good if the landing site is cleared from the prevailing cold winds.

When the soil is excessively moistened, the respiration of the roots is disrupted and they partially die, which leads to a slowdown in plant development.

Under such conditions, bacterial rot also develops on the rhizomes of irises.

If the soil is sufficiently drained, irises can be planted on a flat surface; if the soil is heavy and clayey, then it is better to plant them on a hill or on ridges. Ridges are also more convenient from the point of view of constructing a winter shelter.

High soil fertility is the key to successful cultivation and productivity of tall bearded irises in central Russia.

Bearded irises do best in light, sandy soils. Loams are also acceptable, but the addition of sand and organic materials (peat, composted sawdust, humus) significantly improves the structure and permeability of the soil, which leads to excellent results. You just need to take into account that to improve the soil to a depth of 20 cm, you will need to add approximately 100 liters of sand per 1 m2 of soil.

The optimal level of soil reaction (pH) is 6.8.

If you intend to grow irises in beds, then their preparation consists of the following operations:

• clearing the area from the roots of perennial weeds;
• delivery of compost or other available organic material to the site;
• leveling organic matter over the area while simultaneously adding wood ash or dolomite flour and mixing it with the soil with a pitchfork or shovel.
• applying mineral fertilizers under the rake: potassium sulfate and superphosphate, as well as ground or colloidal sulfur in an amount of 5-7 g/m2;
• shaping the profile of the ridge and compacting the soil to avoid further subsidence and bulging of newly planted plants. The height of the bed profile after compaction is approximately 7-8 cm;
• delivery of coarse-grained river or washed quarry sand to the ridges in such quantities as to form a layer of approximately 5-7 cm, and leveling it;
• The ridge is ready for planting. To preserve the structure of the ridge, it is convenient to plant bearded irises in the following way: spread the sand slightly by sticking the bayonet of a shovel into it, place the roots of the iris section into the resulting gap, compact the soil around the roots and water the substrate, move it towards the planted iris section so that it is in the layer sand

The cuttings are planted on the ridge in such a way that the cut part of the rhizome is directed towards the edge of the ridge, and the fan of leaves is directed towards the middle. In this case, the growing roots will be directed towards the center of the ridge, which will make it easier in the future to water the plants into the groove in the center of the ridge.

Irises can be replanted at any time during the growing season. However, spring replanting may result in poor flowering this year. In the middle zone, optimal results are obtained when planting and replanting irises in August: the plants have enough time to take root and gain sufficient weight to fully bloom the next year. Irises planted later, that is, in the fall, usually remain healthy, but do not have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. This can lead to rhizomes sticking out of the ground when the soil freezes. To avoid bulging of the rhizome, additional mulching is required for the winter or simply fixing the rhizome with a suitable object at hand.

A common mistake when planting and caring for bearded irises is over-burying the rhizomes. It is recommended to plant irises so that the back of the rhizome is at the surface of the soil. In the winter, it is better to sprinkle the exposed rhizome with soil, and in the spring it needs to be raked off.

When caring for bearded irises, it is mandatory in the first weeks after planting the irises for successful rooting. To ensure abundant flowering, adult specimens of bearded irises require watering only when there is insufficient precipitation, especially in May, when the weather is often hot and dry, sometimes in June-July. However, in August, and even more so in September-October, adult bushes no longer need watering. At this time, the plant is preparing for winter, and its growth should not be stimulated.

Irises should be fed as follows: in early spring, and 3-4 weeks after flowering. Fertilizing with soluble fertilizers gives a quick effect: in the spring - complex with microelements, in July-August - potassium phosphate.

For the successful cultivation of bearded irises, phosphorus is the most important of the main nutrients; therefore, when preparing a site for irises, it is advisable to fill the soil with superphosphate (100 g/m2) or bone meal (200-300 g/m2). For spring and summer fertilizing, you can use a complex fertilizer with a low nitrogen content, for example, NPK = 6:10:10. The autumn mixture has a ratio of NPK = 0:13:18, it also contains magnesium and elemental sulfur, the latter being 5%. The spring mixture for feeding has the formula NPK=8:37:11.

The best organic fertilizer for iris crops is well-rotted compost.

Bearded irises successfully grow in one place for 4-5 years. The specific timing of bush renewal depends on both the variety and the agricultural technology used. Some time after planting, the iris bush thickens, which ultimately leads to the cessation of flowering. How quickly thickening occurs depends on the multiplication rate of the variety. Some varieties are characterized by vigorous growth, and at the same time are not too demanding on external conditions.

As the bush ages, it is advisable to increase the amount of fertilizing. If these measures do not bring the desired effect, the bush needs to be dug up entirely, the soil should be updated by adding mature compost and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, and the 3-4 strongest shoots should be planted, shortening the leaves by about 2/3.

Many modern varieties do not need shelter for the winter. If the variety is chosen for the beauty of the flower, but is not winter-hardy enough, additional efforts will be required in preparing for winter. The main problems for irises in winter in the middle zone arise when an ice crust forms on frozen ground without snow, preventing the plants from breathing.

It is convenient to cover irises with spruce branches or oak leaves, which have the property of not caking. To prevent such a frame from getting wet, it must be covered with a non-woven covering material or film - under them the irises will not smear in winter.

Irises overwinter best under dry air cover by first drying the ridge, which usually takes one month. The easiest way to provide protection from rain is to use a dense reinforced film laid on arches or directly on the foliage of irises. The ends of the shelter should be open for free air circulation, and they should be closed for the winter. The estimated construction time for the shelter is late October - early November.

In spring, the film is removed from the shelter as early as possible, immediately after the snow melts, and other material is removed as needed.

Varietal irises are propagated vegetatively, that is, by dividing the rhizomes. To speed up propagation, you need to remove the flower bud located at the base of the fan of leaves in the fall. After this, the plant’s lateral buds begin to grow, which form new powerful shoots in the spring. There is no need to dig up the rhizome to separate them. On a dry sunny day, you need to rake away the ground, tear off the dried and yellowing leaves, and cut the remaining green leaves to the rhizome. The cut must be disinfected and left to dry in the sun. After the wound has healed after a few days, the rhizome needs to be mulched with soil so that the awakening buds can form roots. Often recommended for propagating irises, dividing the rhizome into bud cuttings is much less effective method, since in this case the plant is severely injured and, as a result, flowering occurs much later.

For propagation, dormant buds on 2-3-year-old rhizomes can also be successfully used. To do this, pieces of rhizomes are cut out from the middle of the bush and simply transplanted to a new place.

New varieties of tall bearded irises for the middle zone

The description provides the following data: name of the bearded iris variety, originator, year of registration, characteristics of the flower, flowering period.

Sundress

Pirogov 2000

Golden-smoky top with a lilac touch. Along the white field of the bottom there are purple dots and strokes, a golden-smoky border. Bright yellow pistil ridges glowing in the depths of the flower. Exceptionally vigorous growth and regular abundant and long-lasting flowering. Early.

Queen

Sholupov 2003

Rich purple-violet, with a velvety lobe texture and powerful corrugation. The exhibition peduncle easily holds several simultaneously open flowers. Average flowering time.

Cranberry Sauce

Black 2002

Cranberry South

A silky-brilliant flower with a lilac-crimson tint. Yellow beards highlight the magnificent depth of color. Average flowering time.

Darcy's Choice

Schreiner 2007

Aarsis Choice is a flower of original color with white beards on crimson halyards. Wonderful branched peduncle. Average flowering time.

Dawn then Dusk

Schreiner 2008

Aoun Tu Dusk

A bicolor pink-purple flower that takes on a unique gray hue in acidic soils: unexpected and attractive. Medium late.

Edgefield Glow

Schreiner 2011

Edgefield Glow

An exceptionally bright orange flower with dark tangerine beards. This new variety of bearded irises has incomparable color and excellent growth vigor, unlike other orange forms. Mid-early.

Never Been Kissed

Blyth 2008

Never Vin

Kissed Fashionable reverse: blue top and pure white bottom. Luxurious flower delicate color. A distinctive feature is the best corrugation to date. Mid-early.

Palace Symphony

Blyth 2007

Palace Symphony

A purple-wine flower with almost black beards and exceptional ruffles. A variety that combines best features American and Australian selection. Average flowering time.

Royal Birth

Royal 2003

Royal Burf

Creamy white with golden halyard bases. Dense texture of the flower. Abundant flowering and sustainable growth. Mid-early flowering period.

Undivided Attention

Ernst 2004

Unbiased Attention

Rich pink, warm salmon color, thicker in the center of the flower. Bright coral beards. Abundantly flowering variety. Medium late.

Warranty

T. Johnson 2004

Warranty

A huge soaring purple-black flower with a velvety texture on a tall peduncle. Mid-late flowering period.

The classification of irises still causes many discrepancies, because very often plant varieties come from interspecific and intervarietal crossing. Therefore, amateur gardeners have created their own conditional division into species based on common characteristics.

The most common in cultivation is the group of bearded irises, the main difference of which is the presence of a beard of hairs on the outside of the perianth. Annual growths are clearly visible on the rhizome of the plant. Bearded irises include hybrids of such species as German iris, variegated iris, pale iris, and others. Therefore, the most correct name for varieties of bearded irises would be varieties hybrid iris.

The variety of colors (from pale cream and white to dark blue) and plant height allows you to choose a variety to suit any. Tall bearded irises grow above 0.7 m, medium-sized ones - from 0.41 m to 0.7 m, low-growing (dwarf) ones - up to 0.4 m.

Americans are leaders in iris breeding. The Russian Iris Society (ROI) has also developed its own classification, different from the American one. The only group that does not cause controversy in both countries is the standard tall bearded irises, the most widespread and well-known class throughout the world.

Bearded irises

This group is divided into several subgroups, differing in peduncle height, flower size and flowering time:

• High- characterized by large, luxurious flowers and a long (from 0.7 to 1.20 m) peduncle.
• Curb– peduncle from 0.41 to 0.7 m.
• Petite tall- the sizes are the same as those of the previous group, but differ in small flowers and a thinner stem.
• Sideshow- differ in flowering time, reaching a height of 0.41 to 0.7 m.
• Standard dwarf— the size of the peduncle varies from 0.21 m to 0.4 m.
• Miniature dwarf– bloom very early and have the smallest flowers. The height of the peduncle is up to 0.2 m.

All plants presented have different terms flowering: from very early to late. By choosing the right varieties, you can enjoy their beauty almost all summer.

Structure of the bearded iris flower: standards, beard, fouls

The colors of bearded irises can be one-color, two-tone, or two-color. Two-color, depending on the color transition, are divided into: amena(white standards), variegata(standards are yellow, fouls are deep red), iridescent(colors change gradually), plicata(petals are decorated with strokes, dots, borders), luminate(light-colored veins on a dark background), fancy—plicata(the color combines veins and various strokes or dots).

Breeding bearded iris - not very difficult task, so hundreds of new varieties appear every year. The largest farms for breeding these flowers are located in the USA, Australia and France. In Holland they specialize in bulbous irises.

New items from the 2017 world selection:

Tall:

SPICE GIRLS - a flower of delicate yellow-orange shades. The inner lobes of the perianth are strongly corrugated, pale yellow. The lower lobes are brighter, orange-brown in color. The beard is dark orange.

CAMPFIRE TALES - bright orange color. The lower lobes of the perianth are pale brown with a golden border. The beard is light brown, with white markings on the petal around it. The upper lobes are strongly pressed against each other.

FACE LIFT – with unusual shape flower, similar to a gypsy's skirt - very flared, with wavy edges. Delicate creamy color with yellow veins. The beards are orange.

COWPOKE – Standards (upper perianth lobes) bright apricot. The follae (lower parts of the perianth) are velvety, berry-black, with purple veining around a red-orange beard.

Standard dwarf:

COLD HEARTED – grows up to 30 cm. The standards are soft burgundy, slightly wavy, the fouls are a deep red-burgundy color, with a smooth edge, the beard is creamy.

VOLCANIC SPRITE - grows up to 28 cm. Standards are pale purple, white at the edges, dark red-violet at the base; fouls - pale purple, white at the edges, brick red in the middle; the hairs on the beards are white, light yellow; The flower has a light pleasant aroma.

TOO COOL FOR SCHOOL - all the petals are icy blue-violet, the beard is white, with golden-yellow tips.

RHOSLYN BERRY – loose, open flower. Standards are crimson-violet, fouls are the same color with a dark red spot in the middle. The beard is purple. Has a light pleasant aroma.

Non-bearded irises

Swampy or water-loving

This group includes hybrids of swamp, bristly, multi-colored, and smooth iris. The advantages of all varieties of the group include their moisture-loving nature (indispensable for planting near ponds and in shallow waters), resistance to adverse factors, early and long flowering. The shape and color of flowers in moisture-loving hybrids are quite modest - most often these are yellow or blue irises various shades. The leaves are narrow, sword-shaped, long. Easily propagated by seeds and vegetatively. Prefers acidic soils with high moisture content.

The most common varieties in Russia are:

BERLIN TIGER - yellow irises with dark veins, reminiscent of the skin of a tiger. Height – 60 -70 cm

VARIEGATA – a variety whose main decorations are not yellow large flowers, and bicolor white and green leaves.

CREME DE LA CREME – the flowers are soft cream, with small purple veins at the base of the petals.

FLORE PLENA - bright yellow irises, with a bordered spot of darker color in the middle. Can reach a height of 1.8 m.

GOLDEN QUEEN – bright yellow iris without streaks or splashes. Height – up to 90 cm

Siberian irises

Siberian irises include many different hybrids of both the Siberian iris species itself, as well as the blood-red iris and the hornwort iris. These species are distinguished by the presence of 28 chromosomes in their cells. They are widespread in nature. Created in culture great amount interspecific hybrids, distinguished by winter hardiness, flower beauty, and stable leaf color that does not turn yellow all summer. Most (up to 95%) varieties Siberian irises created on the basis of 28-chromosomal hybrids. IN landscape design Siberian irises are used in mixborders, group plantings on the lawn, to create a border around trees and shrubs. Plants are highly valued for their ability to withstand severe frosts even without snow cover, resistance to soil waterlogging, abundant flowering, beautiful shape bush. Siberian irises do not require constant planting and can grow into huge clumps without losing flowering quality. The color range of modern varieties is huge, and some flowers can even look different in the morning, afternoon or evening.

Modern varieties:

BOOK OF SECRETS - up to 70 cm high, small standards, white with a warm yellow tint, fouls - white with a golden spot. It has a slight aroma and is very popular for cutting.

BUNDLE OF JOY – terry variety. Standards – from 6 to 9 pieces lavender color, fouls - with a blue spot.

DIRIGO BLACK VELVET – height 107-112 cm, dark blue irises, fouls with bright yellow spot, rugged with dark veins.

DANCE AND SING – height 65 cm, a plant with a very large flower, wide, almost non-corrugated petals. The color is soft yellow, the standards are whiter. Has a faint pleasant aroma.

Siberian iris DANCE AND SING

DEAR CURRIER - pale blue standards with dark blue veins, fouls - deep blue with a light border and a small spot of yellow. Petals are corrugated.

Siberian iris DEAR CURRIER

Chrysographs- Chinese-Siberian irises or Sino-Siberian irises, which came to us from China. They are similar to the Siberian iris, but have a set of 40 chromosomes and are distinguished by a looser bush and light green foliage. The petal is easily recognizable, as it is decorated with strokes and spots. Breeding work in this group has been carried out recently and they are still quite rare in cultivation.

Japanese irises– under this name various varieties of plants of the species “Iris xiphoid, also known as Kaempfer’s iris” have been united. Breeding work with this group of plants is most actively carried out in Japan, where it got its name. In Russia, Japanese irises overwinter without shelter only in the southern regions. These flowers do not tolerate stagnation of water and waterlogging; they prefer slightly acidic soil. In Russia, the selection of these plants is carried out in Barnaul (Dolganova Z.V.) and in Vladivostok (Mironova L.N.). Japanese irises by Zoya Vladimirovna Dolganova take root well in central Russia, but flowers from Vladivostok are more capricious due to the warm and humid climate in which they grow.

Spuria. These are irises of the Xyridion genus. The group includes the following species: spuria, pontic, cereal, note, salt-loving, oriental iris, monnieri, golden and many other species. They differ in the height of the peduncle and the size of the flower. Basically, these flowers are found in nature growing wild and appeared in cultivation quite recently. Some varieties prefer dry soil, while others prefer waterlogged soil. In general, spuria irises are quite unpretentious.

Louisiana- a group of heat-loving irises, whose breeding and selection are carried out by gardeners in America and Australia. It includes 5 wild species - six-ribbed, brown-yellow, short-stemmed, giant blue, Nelson. In Russia, Louisiana irises are mainly represented in botanical gardens, and in open ground Only a few varieties with blue and pink flowers have taken root and bloom successfully.

Californian or Pacific Coast irises have long, narrow, leathery evergreen leaves. They prefer acidic soils, do not tolerate replanting very well, and are therefore difficult to reproduce. In nature, their habitat is the states of California, Oregon, and Washington. Plants belonging to this group, which includes at least 10 species, usually have small bush sizes, bloom in early summer and differ in flower color.

Bulbous irises

In Russia, botanists exclude bulbous plants from the genus Iris, but in the Western tradition there are bulbous irises, and with this name they come to us for sale from nurseries and farms in Holland. Dutch irises are widely represented on our shelves.

Bulbous irises include three types: iridodictium (reticulate iris), juno (iris Bukhara), xyphium. Reticulated iris is the most winter-hardy and stable in the conditions of central Russia. It blooms in early spring, does not require annual digging of bulbs, and has a large number of varieties of various colors.

Conclusion

As you can see, there are a great many varieties of irises in the world. We sincerely hope that the photographs and descriptions of flowers presented in this article will help you choose the appropriate varieties for your landscape design.

Bearded irises can easily be put first on the list of garden favorites; their main distinguishing feature is a fluffy stripe located along the central vein of the outer and sometimes inner petals of the flower.

Intensive selection work with bearded irises began at the beginning of the 19th century in Europe. Garden varieties bearded irises were obtained by crossing eight species of iris: German iris (Iris germanica), variegated (Iris variegata), pale (Iris pallida), leafless, Cypriot, Mesopotamian, Kashmir, Trojan. Therefore, to this day, in commercial labeling, bearded irises are often called German irises. This outdated name has now been replaced by another, which very accurately reflects the essence - hybrid iris (Iris hybrida hort.), because all varieties of bearded irises are hybrids obtained as a result of repeated crossings (artificial pollinations). This is truly a flower" self made", a masterpiece created by man in union with nature.

In addition to borders, line drawings different color, complex combinations of different colors that transform into each other, many modern varieties have a specific petal texture. It creates special visual effects, giving pastel varieties the matteness of alabaster or waxy translucency, and dark ones a velvety depth. Irises, like daylilies, have varieties with a “diamond coating” that sparkle in the sun or shimmer in the summer twilight.
In bearded irises, a thick perennial rhizome is located horizontally flush with the soil, long cord-like roots extend from it, forming a fibrous root system. The xiphoid leaves, covered with a bluish waxy coating, are folded like a fan. The iris flower has three perianth lobes: those facing upward are called “standards”, those deviating downwards are called “fouls”.

Older varieties of irises have narrow foils, similar to the protruding tongue of a dog. Modern varieties have wide, rounded foils, domed or crown-shaped standards and various shapes corrugation. Distinctive feature irises of recent decades are wide fluffy beards, turning into colored “horns”, “spoons” or “frills” in a group of varieties.

The color of the flowers has also reached amazing diversity. But, despite the targeted efforts of hybridizers, the iris has not yet been developed as a uniquely red color, numerous attempts to obtain it have led to the creation large quantity varieties of red and burgundy colors. Therefore, it is not an exaggeration to say that the modern range of irises covers the entire range of colors, including black.

According to the American Iris Society - the leader and legislator of modern breeding of bearded irises - today there are over 80 thousand varieties. In the AIS classification, irises are divided into six garden groups, differing in peduncle height, flower size and flowering time. To choose the right plants for your garden, you should get to know them better.

(table)

A number of terms have been adopted to describe the coloring features of bearded irises:
plicata - on a light background, a pattern of dark dots and strokes merging along the edge into a border;
luminata - patterned highlights on a dark background, lighter standards;
blend (iridescent) - two or more colors smoothly transition into each other;
amena - white or lighter standards in a two-color flower, in modern varieties there is a “reverse amena”, when the standards are darker colored than the lower fouls;
splash (“torn color”) - against the background of the main color there are numerous strokes and strokes of other colors.

Originators - this is the name given to the creators of new varieties - in the process of working with the plant, they endow the flower with new properties. This is a special type of creativity aimed at finding a new visual image: in color, proportions and shape. Therefore, figuratively speaking, all garden irises are works of art.

The most hardy and winter-hardy

The lower the iris, the faster it blooms, and therefore you will be the first to greet dwarf irises. Yes, they are not so small, 40 cm is an excellent height for flowering in the first ten days of May. “Dwarfs” (SDB) are taller than groundcovers, small bulbs and emerging perennials, but on a par or slightly lower with daffodils and tulips. They overwinter without shelter, are undemanding to the soil, do not need watering, the warmth of our summer is enough for them to multiply and bloom profusely. That is why, despite their low growth, dwarf irises have become one of the most fashionable and in demand for growing in temperate climates.

Low flowers in single and group plantings look organic among stones and ground cover plants on an alpine hill, adding color accents to the composition. The fantastic variety of colors of “dwarfs” allows you to create amazing combinations both based on contrast and within the same color scheme. Plant dwarf irises along with tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, miniature primroses, and the eternal problem - bare soil under the bulbous ones - will be forgotten forever.

Abundant and early flowering, unpretentiousness and fertility put dwarf irises out of competition when creating extended borders and flowering areas large area, on lawns, in tree trunks, on sunny slopes. In the May garden, barely covered with the first greenery, a bright carpet of blooming irises will attract everyone's attention, and after flowering it will become almost invisible. The pointed leaves of the iris with a bluish coating remain decorative throughout the season, but they are small in height, so they do not block other plants, content with the role of a tactful background. Dwarf irises can be divided and replanted even during flowering; after a warm summer, they often bloom again in August - September. “Dwarfs” can be grown in container culture, on balconies and loggias; they feel good in pots and are easy to force out in the cold season.

The most friendly

At the beginning of June, the flowering relay passes to medium-sized bearded irises up to 70 cm high, this group consists of Intermedia (IB), Table (MTB) and Border (BB) irises. The flowers of this group of irises can be very large and numerous, but due to the smaller height of the peduncles they are resistant to the wind. Table irises, as their name suggests, will decorate not only the garden, but also the house. Their graceful flowers on strong peduncles are ideal for making bouquets. All the buds of a cut flower open, which allows it to remain decorative in a vase for a long time. Moreover, such a bouquet can bloom for you by the New Year or on March 8 - medium-sized irises lend themselves well to forcing and are capable of indoors bloom fully in winter.
The flowering of the newest varieties of foreign selection simply amazes the imagination with the size, shape of the flowers, and the amazing play of shades. However, being plants of southern origin, they may require additional attention during the period of adaptation to new climatic conditions. This especially applies to peach-pink colors; they are the most vulnerable to frost.
At the beginning of June, in the off-season, when the primroses have already faded and the annuals and perennials are still preparing to bloom, it is the medium-sized irises that will add the missing colors to the garden palette. Medium-sized irises overwinter stably, grow quickly, forming lush bushes with many flower stalks.

This is the most versatile class of irises, beautiful both in single plantings and in all forms of group planting.

In addition to creating borders and large areas, medium-sized irises are best suited for planting on slopes, their powerful root system will retain the soil layer and prevent relief deformation.

"High genre"

Tall Irises (TV)- born soloists. By growing such a meter-long beauty near your house or path, you will give yourself the incomparable pleasure of watching the birth of a flower, the change in its outlines and shades as it grows older. An iris bush can produce 10-15 peduncles, each of which has up to 25 flowers open at the same time. The collection of irises is of particular interest to connoisseurs of fragrances, because the variety of smells in different varieties of bearded irises is no less than the range of colors and shapes.

Jasmine, peonies, foxgloves, daylilies, heucheras and onions blooming at the same time will serve as an excellent background for irises. The outstanding decorative qualities of many modern varieties with massive peduncles and large corrugated flowers will be emphasized by the restrained “accompaniment” of decorative leafy crops (sage, sage, hosta, bergenia, wormwood, cuff, sedum and young).
In all classes of bearded irises, there are varieties that are capable of repeated flowering; this property is called remontant and is designated by the abbreviation (RE). But in the middle zone this is more of a disadvantage than an advantage. In our climate, re-blooming in autumn is very irregular and occurs in dwarf and medium-sized irises after a very warm summer. All remontant varieties continue to grow actively in the fall, not having time to enter a state of dormancy before the onset of frost, which is necessary for successful wintering. Therefore, re-blooming irises are the least cold-resistant and difficult group of varieties to grow.
In group planting, varieties of pastel colors or simply similar in color look harmonious. Be especially attentive to two-color irises; they rarely “suit” planting in a single mass. In the area of ​​contrasting combinations, a lot of possibilities are opened by the non-linear arrangement of clumps of a sufficiently large area; it is advisable to arrange groups from an odd number of varieties.

The June bloom of the tall bearded irises is truly magnificent! Their advantages are obvious, and the variety of varieties will satisfy the most demanding connoisseur. The choice depends entirely on your tastes and the location of the garden. I will only note that tall (TV) is the most demanding class of irises in terms of growing conditions.

The most unpretentious and resistant to cold, pests and diseases are the old classic irises, bred in the 19th and early 20th centuries. However, for all their endurance, they are significantly inferior modern varieties for decorative qualities. Beginning flower growers should pay attention first of all to varieties of domestic selection, one of the main priorities of which was the breeding of varieties that are most resistant to cold and disease.

SELECTION OF PLANTING MATERIAL

The planting unit of a bearded iris, the so-called “deleka”, is a piece of thick rhizome with roots extending from it and a fan of leaves, which are shortened to a length of 10-15 cm. High-quality delenki have clearly visible buds on the sides. Irises can be planted from May to September, so planting material goes on mass sale in early spring. Wherever you buy irises, be sure to take a cutting in your hands and carefully examine the plant. Yellowing of a couple of outer leaves is quite acceptable, but if softened areas of the rhizome, mold or stains are found, you should refrain from purchasing.

Bearded irises are very sensitive to excess moisture. Humidity, especially in combination with heat planting material destructive. Mature rhizomes are not afraid of drying and can be stored in a dry and cool place for up to 2 months. This feature has contributed to the wide dissemination of the culture of bearded irises, because delenki tolerate mailing well. Therefore, the most rational way to purchase planting material that is healthy and appropriate for the variety is to turn to collectors.

The largest association of iris lovers, as well as breeders and competent producers of planting material is the Russian Iris Society. Within the framework of this non-profit association of flower growers, exhibitions, training seminars, official registration of new varieties are held, and the purchase of planting material of Russian and foreign selection is coordinated. Anyone can become a member of the ROI; the association maintains an official website (http//rusiris.narod.ru) and annually publishes the newsletter “Irises of Russia” with an overview of the most significant events in modern world irises, articles on agricultural technology and selection of these plants. Society address: 129110 Moscow, st. Gilyarovsky, 36-23.

What is important to take into account when purchasing planting material from private collections?

The level of collection maintenance is largely evidenced by the catalog - a list of proposed varieties with a description that informs you as much as possible about the properties of the variety. The variety class according to the height of the peduncle must be indicated. The name is followed by the surname of the breeder, the year of registration of the variety, a description of the color, features and awards received.
The times when one could mostly dream about new breeding products are over. Now we excitedly leaf through catalogs, jumping from site to site in search of interesting varieties. But the more choices, the more difficult it is to make. One “golden” rule will allow you to lay and maintain a strong foundation for your iris garden - first of all, choose award-winning varieties.
Collectors who value their reputation and circle of customers offer a system of discounts, bonuses, guarantees and order approvals, following the world practice of offering planting material. Including its unwritten law: the older the variety, the lower its price. The high cost of the newest varieties is explained not only by their outstanding decorative qualities, but also by the number of plants themselves. In irises, a new variety propagates only vegetatively, that is, by dividing one “original” plant obtained from a seed, therefore, by the time a variety is officially registered, the number of plants that bear it is small, and it is customary to charge the highest price for the right to own them. For reference: the price of the current year's varieties from the luminaries of American selection ranges from 30 to 50 dollars.

GROWING IRISES

Choosing a landing site

In order for flowering to be regular and abundant, the area for planting bearded irises should be as warm, light as possible, and when planting tall irises- certainly protected from the wind. Bearded irises do not tolerate excessive moisture, so flooded lowlands are not for them; in areas with high groundwater levels, planting is possible on raised ridges.

Soil preparation

The best soil for irises is light loam. Clay soils can be improved by adding sand and peat; acidic ones can be neutralized with dolomite flour; sandy ones can be supplemented with clay and well-rotted compost. The soil under irises should have good water and air permeability. In the fight for porosity, all means are good - coarse sand, crushed brick, fine limestone, and charcoal will do.

Excess nitrogen reduces winter hardiness and increases the risk of bacterial infections, so organic additives (completely rotted compost or manure humus) can be added in small quantities to the lower layer of soil, to the depth of thin roots, avoiding contact with the thick rhizome.

For getting large plants Exhibition quality plants (especially for tall irises) are planted on two-layer raised beds. The bottom layer of soil consists of compost with the addition of dolomite flour, long-acting mineral fertilizers or a phosphorus-potassium complex, upper layer ridges (10-15 cm) - sand.

Planting

Irises can be planted and replanted with a clod of soil from May to September, best time- July, since at this time the active growth of new roots begins. Planting young trees should begin with disinfection. To do this, it is enough to withstand them for 15-30 minutes. in a pink solution of potassium permanganate. If the weather is sunny, place the cuttings in the sun for several days so that the rhizome is illuminated from all sides. This “tanning” destroys pathogenic bacteria and promotes better survival and formation of flower buds.

Perennial rhizomes should remain on the soil surface when planting. Make a hole with a scoop, pour earth into a mound at the bottom (or best of all, a mixture of sand and wood ash). Hold the rhizome level with the soil surface, spread the roots along the sides of the mound, as if planting a tree astride the mound. Fill the hole by pressing the soil tightly around the roots with your hands. Water thoroughly to ensure the division does not fall over. There is no need to water the plantings anymore; it is important that all planted plants maintain a vertical position and the rhizome is not buried. The planted cuttings can be supported from the leaves with sticks or stones; after 2-3 weeks, new growing roots will provide the plant with proper contact with the soil.

And the last step, optional but very forward-thinking, is to install a label with the name of the variety. A disposable plastic knife would work well as such a label. Write the name of the variety with a permanent marker and stick it next to the plant.

The taller the iris, the more space it needs. And the more often you plant irises, the sooner you will have to plant the plants. When planting irises in groups, it is advisable to place the plants at a distance from each other: for tall irises 30-40 cm, for medium-sized ones - 15-20, for dwarf ones - 10-15 cm. During the growth process, bearded irises move, the rhizome moves forward along the soil surface, therefore, when planting in a border, all cuttings should face one direction; it is better to orient the cut on the rhizome to the south-eastern sector, so the rhizome will be better illuminated and warmed up. When planting in nests, the divisions are placed with cuts towards the center.

CARE OF BEARDED IRISES

In the spring, after the snow melts, it may seem that the irises have died, but do not rush to conclusions. If the rhizome is hard, after 1-2 weeks the iris will turn lushly green. Treat the iris and the soil around it with ash or one of the fungicides. Wood ash for irises is both a hygiene product and a fertilizer; it is applied several times a season.

Most often it freezes top part rhizomes with flower bud. Cut the damaged area down to solid healthy tissue as soon as possible. Irises lay renewal buds on the sides of the rhizomes, so even a radically “operated” iris still has a chance of survival. Fresh cuts on the rhizome should always be disinfected. Here are the remedies from the extensive experience of practitioners; a mixture of sulfur and charcoal, brilliant green, fucorcin, potassium permanganate, metronidazole powder. Try to provide the rhizomes with maximum illumination, solar ultraviolet - the best remedy fight against bacteriosis.

The moisture requirement of bearded irises is covered by the amount of natural precipitation; they do not need regular watering; watering is desirable in dry summers for tall irises during the flowering period. In the non-chernozem zone, the development and winter hardiness of plants can be stimulated with the help of fertilizing. In spring, nitrogen-phosphorus (3:1), during budding - nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (1:1:1), 2-3 weeks after flowering - phosphorus-potassium (1:1). Fertilizers are applied to wet soil, preventing granules from getting on the rhizome.
Prevention and protection against diseases

Basic care for irises comes down to disease prevention. The occurrence of rot caused by various types bacteria are promoted by dampness, excess organic matter, thickened plantings and long-term cultivation in one place. When a disease is detected, there is only one method of control: the affected part of the plant is cut out, the remaining part is treated with fungicidal agents (see above).

An effective measure for the prevention and control of rots of various origins is the introduction of live bacterial preparations (Trichodermin, Glyocladin) into the soil under irises, which suppress the development of pathogenic microorganisms. Spring sowing in areas intended for summer planting of irises and annual green manure crops ( white mustard, phacelia) followed by planting them to a depth of about 20 cm will improve the soil and provide the irises with optimal nutrition.

In the second half of summer, brown spots and yellowing ends can be seen on the foliage of irises. Spots caused by various pathogens do not directly threaten the life of the plant, but they spoil appearance and may affect winter hardiness. Help to keep the foliage healthy: regular preventive spraying of foliage with fungicides (foundazol, Maxim,

0.2% copper oxychloride), spacious planting, pre-winter pruning of leaves (and even subsequent whitewashing with lime).

Wintering

Irises of domestic selection and time-tested foreign varieties, which have been grown for quite a long time in the middle zone, are distinguished by the greatest winter hardiness. For most irises, 30 cm of snow is sufficient protection from frost. The most vulnerable are the new items in the world selection of tall irises. The potential of their winter hardiness and methods of covering have to be established experimentally.

Most dwarf and medium-sized irises in gardens near Moscow can overwinter without shelter. In tall irises in November, before the cold weather, the rhizomes are covered with 8-10 cm of soil, and when the soil is frozen, they are covered with spruce branches or any breathable material.

The most reliable way to cover bearded irises is “dry wintering”.

IN rainy autumn A low, rigid canopy is installed over the irises so that the soil remains dry and the shelter is blown through. With the onset of the first frost, the foliage is cut off at a height of 10 cm, the plants are sprayed with fungicide and covered with lutrasil over the canopy.

A small number of plants can be covered with mesh plastic boxes and lutrasil or caps made of plastic containers with holes at the bottom. Any method that allows you to maintain air circulation under the shelter is good.

IN last years appear improbably abroad beautiful varieties tall bearded irises - with very large flowers of various colors, with highly corrugated, lacy edges of the petals right up to the “foam”. They are enriched with shades of the group amena (with white or soft pink inner petals and outer ones of a different color), variegata (with yellow inner petals and brown outer ones), plicata (with edged petals), two-color and two-tone.

But, unfortunately, most of these wonderful new plants do not show good garden qualities in the unfavorable northern climate - they are less hardy and winter-hardy, prone to diseases, grow worse, heavy flower stalks are unstable, large flowers suffer from rain and wind. For the garden, the viability of the plant, the number of buds on the peduncle and the duration of flowering are more important than the individual beauty of each flower, especially when the irises grow in masses and are viewed from a great distance. Therefore, garden designers, even in England and France, often use old unpretentious varieties, and this is dictated not by snobbery or nostalgia, but exclusively by common sense and practical considerations. Of course, individual luxurious specimens can be planted in a small group somewhere in a prominent place to admire the breathtaking beauty for 10–15 days. Special efforts can be made to care for, treat, and winter shelter exceptional specimens, but on a large scale it is too labor-intensive and ineffective.
Most domestic and foreign gardeners agree that tall bearded irises are best planted en masse - in the form of borders stretched along paths, near the southern walls of buildings, or in large groups against the backdrop of lawns, in the foreground in front of ornamental shrubs. This is explained, on the one hand, by the specific requirements of irises for soil and care, and on the other hand, by the strict and very expressive appearance of this plant. Mass flowering of irises makes a strong impression when the delicate shape and rich color of the flowers contrast with the strict vertical lines and bluish green of the leaves.

When planting in a wide (up to 100–120 cm) rectilinear border, it is recommended to place the plants in a checkerboard pattern in order to deviate somewhat from the hard lines that already abound in sword-shaped foliage. However, this will not work in a narrower (50–60 cm) border.

According to the timing of flowering, early, middle and late varieties, and although this difference is small, it is still possible to achieve continuous flowering tall bearded irises for 4–5 weeks, combining different varieties. But this is a matter of taste, and some people prefer a flash of simultaneous flowering, shorter and more spectacular. If you combine tall bearded, intermedia and dwarf varieties, the flowering of bearded irises will last up to two months.

In places where irises can be viewed at close range, it is best to plant varieties with a combination of colors - two-tone, two-tone, iridescent, amen and plicate, as well as varieties with delicate, pale colors, new items with highly corrugated, lacy edges of the petals. Varieties with “floating” petals appear in all their beauty up close when viewed from above, while flowers with hanging foils are clearly visible from afar.

Look impressive from a considerable distance large groups one bright variety - with blue, purple, yellow, orange or brick-red flowers. As a color accent, you can add a bush with pure white flowers to such a group. Monochrome compositions of irises with the same flower shape are very beautiful. In this case, 3–4 varieties of different shades or different saturations of the same color are used - blue, blue and violet, pale and bright yellow and orange, pale and bright pink and purple. You can follow the path of playing with nuances, combining groups of single-color and two-tone, single-color and amen, single-color and plicate in a certain color scheme, but this should not be abused in order to prevent excessive variegation.

More daring contrasting combinations - blue with orange, yellow with purple - make a bright impression, but in this case a neutral background is required - a light wall or green lawn.

The bluish sword-shaped leaves of irises are very beautiful in themselves. In borders, they go well with dove-leaved annuals (poppy, nasturtium) planted in the foreground and perennial carnations - sandy, grass and bluish-blue; purple varieties of irises look especially beautiful against their background.

Leaves can serve as an accent in some situations, such as gravel gardens and rockeries, but the large flowers of modern hybrids would not be appropriate. Many old varieties with good healthy foliage fade too quickly, and here this disadvantage can turn into an advantage, because the flower stalks can be removed even in advance without much regret. To maintain proportions, tall irises are planted among large stones, with which they generally go well in various situations (in the photo next to the stone bridge). In Renoir's garden in France, where the original arrangement is still maintained, lilac irises are planted in a large border above retaining wall from large stones.

Irises were generally the favorite flowers of great painters - Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir. In Monet's garden, along with new ones, those varieties that he planted himself are still grown.

What do tall bearded irises go with?

The most unpretentious irises are also used in mixed flower beds. The main thing here is to take into account the requirements of irises for lighting and soil, and select appropriate companions for them from representatives of beautiful flowering and decorative deciduous crops.

In the Moscow region, the peak flowering of tall bearded irises occurs in mid-June.

Brown-flowered varieties and plicas in these tones (Vita Fire, Havanna Ernte) look great against the bronze and purple foliage of Heuchera mycrantha Rachel, Palace Purple, and purple and lilac flowers (poppies, columbine). Two-color varieties, such as Gala Madrid, will also fit here.

Yellow irises, variegata and similar ones (Andrea, Cremoline) - with yellow and orange flowers aquilegia, calendula, erizimum, milkweed multicolor, with common cornflower.

Blue and blue irises (Modernaire, Blaue Welle) - with white and blue aquilegias, blue and white peach-leaf bell, white oriental poppy, speedwell, heuchera Palace Purple.

Irises in purple and violet tones (Jungle Fire, Holly Night) two-tone and plicate (Dialog, Aztec Affluence) are in harmony with lilac, pink, crimson flowers (Aflatun onion, lupins, low delphiniums, geraniums, peonies, red pyrethrum), creating a wonderful contrast with silver and gray wormwood, with yellow flowers(yarrow meadowsweet), with yellow-green foliage and flowers (euphorbia, mantle), with purple heuchera. In Monet's garden, blue and purple irises contrast in long borders with scarlet poppies.

Apricot and orange irises (Iowa Charm, Orange Harvest) are best combined in warm colors with peach, apricot, yellow and red flowers, with bronze and yellow-variegated foliage: with early yellow roses, milkweeds, columbine, gravilates, dark-leaved heucheras, red-leaved and yellow-leaved Thunberg barberry.

When combining irises with other plants, you should remember that their companions must have the same requirements for the environment: irises are photophilous and love neutral or slightly alkaline soils. They cannot be grown next to rhododendrons or heathers. In addition, you need to be vigilant in relation to overly aggressive ground cover neighbors.