How to connect wiring in an apartment. Electrical wiring in an apartment: drawing up a diagram, rules and algorithm of work

High-quality electrical lines in an apartment or house are the key to reliable and safe operation. Without special knowledge and understanding of the processes occurring during the distribution of electricity, it is almost impossible to do it yourself, or, in extreme cases, not recommended. However, the services of professionals are now expensive, so many owners are eager to put in their efforts. We'll tell you how to do it correctly.

Home electrical network project

A design sketch of the location of cables, sockets and switches is a routine, but extremely necessary work. Without understanding the exact location, it is impossible to arrange safe home electrical installations.

The nuances of the plan are as follows:

• All apartment wiring is divided into groups. So, it’s easier to install, and the system will have more security in case of an emergency. In the sketch, groups of wires are marked with different markers for convenience and are divided into lighting fixtures, sockets, distribution boxes, power cables and emergency shutdown systems.
• The “humidity” of the room is taken into account. For example, increased demands on the home network should be placed in bathrooms, toilets and the coldest places in the apartment - hallways, window sills. There is a high probability of condensation accumulation due to temperature changes in winter.
• The machine responsible for stopping the current is located inside the apartment. Many switchboards are located outside of it, so you will have to tinker to arrange the control machine inside. Its installation is of great benefit - in case of overvoltage, it will not be difficult to supply the apartment with current.
• The entire project is verified in advance, with the accompanying provisions from the safety rules. The wiring is carried out strictly vertically or horizontally. It is advisable to apply the length parameters immediately, this way the orientation will go much faster. If there is no knowledge to draw up a high-quality project, then the document is purchased from specialists.

Methods for installing electrical wiring in an apartment

Until recently, the installation of a home electrical network followed one scenario - the wires were laid on top of the finishing wall covering - wallpaper or plaster. To a certain extent, this was not noticeable, especially if twisted wire was used - some interiors only benefited from this, retro, for example.

Requirements: This type of wiring is characterized by installation locations such as baseboards and corrugated pipes. Power and lighting cables must not be laid together.

Contacting surfaces must be made of fireproof material.

Hidden wiring is more popular. Cables are installed in grooves - special grooves selected in the wall or located in suspended ceilings.

The cable requirements are greater than for the open method. These include: a durable wire body that can withstand not only force loads, but also the thickness of concrete, moisture, mechanical damage, and movement. Corrugation is used for laying - steel pipes cannot be laid in hidden channels.

DIY electrical wiring installation

Self-installation begins with marking the network, depending on the chosen method. The installation locations of the power unit and the wiring from it are marked.

Tools needed:

• Tape measure, measuring and control equipment - water level and laser level. Installation must be carried out carefully, especially if we are talking about an external installation method.
• Wire cutters. All bundles will be hidden in corrugated tubes.
• It is not recommended to purchase metal ones; the wires are placed in a reliable insulating cavity.
• Insulating tape for wire connections. End stripping knife.
• Bulgarian. It is useful for removing grooves in concrete using the closed method. A chisel is purchased for it, which is convenient for working in soft walls - plaster, foam block.
• Plaster mortar for sealing grooves. Therefore, you will need tools for working with the solution - spatulas, graters, mixing containers.

The work will take place in a de-energized apartment, so you should take care in advance of having an extension cord from the live power cable - the wires are disconnected from the meter, connecting the temporary shed. Its length is equal to convenient movement around the apartment.

Installation of the input panel

If the general voltage is located outside the apartment, then you will only need to install packets - an RCD system (residual current device). It is usually located near the front door, closer to the ceiling. There should be two machines - 16 A for household use and 10 A for lighting.

Grilling

With a marker or pencil, places for future laying of wires are outlined. They must be strictly vertical and horizontal to the floor or ceiling. The width of the groove corresponds to the tight fit of the corrugated tube with the bundle of wires - it should not dangle. The depth is corresponding. Using a grinder, cuts are made in the concrete, and then the chisels are used to chisel. The work is carried out carefully so that in the future the cable will be laid tightly.

In addition to grooves for wires, they are also made for socket boxes. This requires a special round nozzle. If it is not there, then concrete or plaster is knocked out along the drawn circle. The work is noisy and dusty and is carried out only during daylight hours.

Cutting and laying wires

The length is calculated with a margin of 10–15 cm so that the ends can be freely connected to each other. Next, laying takes place on the floor - the common cable bundle is inserted into a corrugation, which is inserted into the thickest groove prepared. There will be branches from it.

Immediately prepare a plaster mortar based on gypsum - it hardens quickly - and little by little, close the groove. Breaks are made every 50 cm so that the solution has time to set. The ends of the power cable are inserted through the packet into the common shield. This requires knowledge, so the work at this stage is performed by an electrician. In addition, independent actions are fraught with fines from the resource supply organization. It doesn’t take long to call a technician, but there’s less hassle.

Installation of sockets and switches

After the finishing is completed - the grooves are plastered, only the ends of the wires for sockets and installation of switches peek out from the walls, they begin to install them.

There are several important rules that, if followed, will increase the safety of your home electrical network:

• There should be no sockets near the floor. Calculation of sudden flooding or evaporation of condensate. Low installed ones have a greater chance of becoming damp and causing a short circuit. Therefore, a distance of up to 10 cm is taken into account immediately when laying the grooves.
• The height of switches has no regulations. However, for a family with small children, this is taken into account - a child at a tender age should not independently reach the object of interest to him. The height of the student and the free position of the raised hand are taken into account.
• Do not install conductive devices near “wet” sources – bathtubs, sinks. The minimum distance on the kitchen apron is 50 cm, in the bathroom – 2.5 m. This rule also applies to “hot” spots - water heaters, gas stoves, ovens and other similar places. The reason is the melting of the insulation with the release of toxic gas.
• When purchasing, carefully inspect the product offered - sockets and switches must be completely insulated, otherwise there will be no safety. The moving parts are securely reinforced. It’s good to inquire about the availability of a quality certificate.
• Installation of sockets and switches also occurs in two ways - hidden and external. The first one is distinguished by special boxes where the elements are inserted. The second is the usual one, plastic models are glued or screwed to the point where the wires exit.

To make your home equipped with high-quality wiring, you should carefully consider the following:

• Replacement of wiring is planned before the start of repairs and preparation of walls. As can be seen from what is written, this is labor-intensive work, therefore, it is not advisable to carry it out after the walls have received the finishing cladding.
• Wiring should be planned with full consideration of household appliances. You can't leave even one wall empty. It is quite possible that the idea will come to rearrange the furniture and equipment and the points from which safe food is possible will not be there. Too many extension cords cause accidents and injuries.
• Built-in lamps must be easy to control, so the installation plan must be agreed upon with professionals in advance. Installing a suspended or suspended ceiling is not a cheap pleasure, and remodeling a failed device will cost a tidy sum.
• It is better to give preference to copper wire than aluminum. Its service life has been reduced significantly. In addition, even a new cable is fragile, which is why microcracks appear on its surface during manual installation. Over time, under load and constant temperature changes, they will grow, and the cable will stop functioning, which will require its complete replacement.
• It is better to conduct wiring with minimal connections. Soldering and twisting will lead to rapid failure of the entire cable. Special boxes embedded in the walls save you from overheating in these places.

The last “parting word” – if you don’t have the understanding and ability to deal with dangerous elements, it’s not worth the risk. This may result in accidents during installation or operation in the future. Professional work is not cheap, but as a bonus it comes with a guarantee that will provide your life with comfort for many years.

Video on installing electrical wiring with your own hands in an apartment

Do-it-yourself electrical wiring in an apartment is actually not such a labor-intensive and time-consuming process. For proper installation, it is enough to study the literature and familiarize yourself with the requirements and rules for carrying out the work. The development of modern technologies requires energy costs. Now the installation of modern electrical wiring is considered a pressing issue, because 35 years ago people did not use such a volume of electrical appliances. Today, every home has appliances such as a washing machine, microwave ovens, electric stoves, toasters, mixers, coffee grinders, coffee makers, steamers, baking devices, etc. Such devices are high-tech and require sufficient network voltage.

Laying cable wires includes the following stages:

• development of a plan indicating the localization points of the main elements;
• a list of necessary accessories to ensure high-quality completion of the scope of work;
• marking routes and preparing the surface of walls for conducting electricity into the apartment (grinding, cable channels);
• securing the cables;
• installation and fastening of materials;
• installation and assembly of the electrical panel structure;
• system testing;
• setup and launch.

Important: Technological modern interior design of apartments does not provide for the installation of electrical cables using an external method; they mainly use a hidden type.

General rules for electrical wiring

Many people are concerned about the question: “How to properly do electrical wiring with your own hands?” To do this you need to follow the rules:

1. The wires must be located in a vertical or horizontal position relative to the floor;
2. If the wires need to be turned, the turn must be made at an angle of 90 degrees;
3. At the top of the wall, the wires should be located at a distance of 25 centimeters from the ceiling. If the wires run along the bottom, then you will need special baseboards with channels for the wires;
4. The switches are placed next to the doorway at a distance from the floor of approximately 80 to 150 centimeters, depending on who uses the device most often (children or adults). The installation parameters of devices are regulated by SNiP rules;
5. Sockets are mounted at a height of 30 centimeters from the floor, the quantity is determined at the rate of 1 piece per 6 square meters. For the kitchen, the number of sockets depends on the number of electrical equipment. The gaps between sockets and door and window openings should be more than 10 centimeters;
6. An individual distribution box is installed in each room;
7. When drawing up project documentation, you need to take into account the placement of furniture in the apartment in order to eliminate interference from connecting cords to sockets;
8. The bathroom should have approximately 2 sockets: for a washing machine and a hair dryer.

Important: When working with the project, it is necessary to take into account the location of the 30 mA residual current devices. Ten mA devices are recommended for bathrooms.

Electrical wiring project for a three-room apartment

The scheme has several features:

1. For each room, it is mandatory to install a distribution box, from which cables are subsequently routed to electrical devices (sockets, etc.) located in the room;
2. In the kitchen you need to install three sockets above the countertop (stove, kettle, microwave oven), and one in the area where the refrigeration equipment is located. When drawing up a project with your own hands, you can easily take into account your needs, and if you need additional sockets for a hood, ventilation or dishwasher, etc., provide and mark this on the drawing;
3. If you need electricity on the loggia, then you need to provide in the diagram for cable wiring from the distribution box located in the next room.

It is best to place localization points on a copy of the apartment plan, which is attached to the technical passport of the apartment.

For the convenience of drawing up project documentation, it is recommended to divide electrical consumers into groups, for example:

• the first group of lighting will include light in the toilet, bathroom and living room;
• the second group will provide lighting for the bedroom, bathroom and children's rooms.

Electrical wiring diagram in a two-room apartment

In order to correctly distribute sockets, switches and boxes, you need to consider some points:

• for rational use of electrical wiring, it is necessary to divide consumers into several groups: lighting in the corridor and bathroom, the next group - in the living room, kitchen and bedroom;
• the height of sockets and switches in Khrushchev-era buildings is not standardized, so you can arrange them as convenient for you;
• there must be a distribution box in every room, except for the bathroom, since the humidity there is usually somewhat higher than in residential premises;
• if electricity is needed on the balcony, mark on the diagram the location of the distribution box in the room next to the balcony for the convenience of leading the wires to the balcony;
• An RCD and a circuit breaker are placed in the distribution board.

Selection of accessories and tools for electrical wiring

For proper electrical wiring, you need to determine the method of placing the cables, and accordingly, decide on the choice of the necessary additional materials:

• For lighting, VVG brand wires with a cross section of 1.5 square meters are used. mm, for sockets use a three-core cable with a cross-section of 2.5 square millimeters;
• residual current devices (RCDs) and circuit breakers. RCDs are used to protect the system from current leakage, and circuit breakers prevent short circuits;
• distribution boxes;
• The electrical panel is selected depending on the number of machines and RCDs. If you intend to mount a large number of elements, then you need to purchase a large shield. Based on their structure, metal and plastic structures are distinguished; experts advise installing metal ones, as they are more durable and last a long time;
• connecting insulating elements (PPE) – electrical tape, liquid nails, clips, dowels.

Installation of electrical wiring

Carrying it out in an apartment does not pose any particular difficulties; the main thing you need to know is the installation rules, as well as how to use the tool. At the initial stage, you need to decide on the chosen method of electrical wiring: external or hidden, using special channels.

The hidden method has recently become increasingly popular, although it is the most labor-intensive and dusty. To lay wires using a hidden method, walls are grooved, that is, channels approximately 10 millimeters deep are prepared on the surface of the wall. Wires are laid in them and then plastered.

Installation of electrical wiring in an apartment using the external method requires the use of a cable duct, electrical skirting boards and special boxes.

The secrets of the secret method of electrical wiring are that the walls need to be tapped; if you plan to lay wires along the floor, you will have to open the floor covering. The hidden method is usually used during major redevelopment and renovation of an apartment, when all rooms are free of furniture.

Use a wall chaser, hammer drill or grinder. The work is very dusty, so to prevent dust from entering neighboring rooms it is better to cover the passage with a damp cloth. The depth of the grooves is calculated in accordance with the wires used, but not more than 1 centimeter, since deep channels are difficult to plaster; the width can be different, at the discretion of the owner.

Rosette holes and openings for the distribution box are cut out using a crown of a certain design.

Important: In load-bearing walls, the depth of the channels must be taken with special consideration, since violation of the structure of such walls can lead to destruction.

In panel houses, there are cavities between the floors into which wires can be laid. Panel buildings are a thing of the past; today houses are built from integral, durable structures with brick floors; in such apartments, gating can be carried out on all walls.

An economical option for hidden electrical wiring is to lay the wires under the floor. In these cases, the wire must be masked with corrugated foil. The corrugation serves as insulation and protection against voltage surges.

After preparing the channels for the wires, install the distribution panel and lay the wires. Depending on the method of fastening, shield designs can be overhead or built into the wall surface. In houses of modern design, a special niche is adapted for the shield, and in houses of domestic construction, the shield is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws.

Circuit breakers and residual current devices are installed in the panel body. To do this, VVG brand wires are connected to the shield, and then they are routed to the lighting system, sockets and switches.

At the connection points, it is necessary to make an allowance for wires (approximately 20 centimeters) in case of repair work. When connecting wires to a distribution panel, experts recommend marking the wires in order to know exactly which one is responsible for what.

After completing a set of electrical wiring works, the system is tested. If the system is functioning at full capacity, then the installation is completed with the installation of electrical devices.

External installation is carried out on wall and ceiling surfaces. At the initial stage, it is necessary to outline the route for laying the wires and drill holes in the places where they are attached at intervals of 50 centimeters. At the request of the apartment owner, the wires can be laid in cable channels or clips. In places where the wires branch, distribution boxes are installed. The advantage of the open wiring method is that it provides easy access to the wires, but the only drawback is that such wiring does not always fit into the interior of the room.

Types of cable and wire fastenings for open wiring:

• porcelain rollers or insulators;
• staples;
• corrugated pipe;
• cable channels;
• electrical skirting boards.

Advantages of the open wiring method:

• ensuring easy accessibility to monitor the system status;
• most often used in wooden premises.

The disadvantages are expressed by the following parameters:

• the location of wires in plain sight, which leads to a violation of the aesthetics of the interior;
• rarely combines with the design style of the rooms.

The final stage is the process of connecting to the electrical network; this requires the presence of electricians. Connection of meters can only be carried out by specialists with electrical clearance.

Laying out the electrical wiring route

Wires should be purchased with a margin of approximately 20 centimeters, since this allowance is used to connect the wires to each other. When connecting wires to sockets and switches, the wires are exposed approximately 7 centimeters on each side.

Then the electrical wiring is secured using clamps or loose alabaster. The wires are placed in the channels and secured with a lump of alabaster at a distance of 30 centimeters.

Important: It must be remembered that the alabaster mixture hardens almost instantly, so you need to first lay the wires in grooves, and then secure them with lumps of diluted alabaster. After fixing all the wires, take a photo of the laying route in case of repair work.

To install sockets and switches, socket boxes are installed in the prepared channels and secured with alabaster mortar. Alabaster quickly and firmly grips the equipment to the wall.

Installation of RCDs and automatic machines

The completion of the input panel is considered the final stage of electrical wiring in the apartment. Residual current devices and circuit breakers are installed in the switchboard housing. Wires for connecting the RCD are installed in the upper part of the panel.

After connecting all electrical devices, the entire system is dialed using a special device - a multimeter. If the entire system is installed correctly, then you can safely turn on the equipment and carry out tests.

Experts advise that before deciding to carry out electrical wiring, draw up a competent wiring plan, taking into account the planned interior changes or remodeling:

1. Roughly mark future changes in the layout of the apartment on the diagram;
2. Indicate the locations of sockets, switches, junction boxes and lighting fixtures.

Proper planning should ensure safe and comfortable use of electricity.

Specialist rules:

• all electrical devices (meters, junction boxes, lamps, switches and sockets) must occupy a convenient place for human use;
• lighting in the bathroom is carried out through an isolation transformer, which is mounted outside the room;
• sockets should be removed from gas, electric and water pipes at a distance of approximately 45-50 centimeters.

Conclusion

Electrical wiring in apartments most often occurs along the walls or ceiling and is not particularly difficult. After marking the places for laying the wires, drill holes for fastening while maintaining a distance of about 45 centimeters. Then boxes or cable channels are fixed to the wall or ceiling.

After all of the above work has been completed, the electrical wiring process can be considered complete. All that remains is to check the system and connect it. You can do electrical wiring in an apartment yourself without much difficulty if you follow all installation rules - from planning to connection. The electrical wiring system is checked in stages.

Electricity is a serious and responsible matter. If you are going to do all the work yourself, you need to do everything very carefully and diligently. Proper wiring in a private home is a guarantee of safety, because according to statistics, 70% of fires occur due to electrical faults. If you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to entrust the work to proven specialists.

Action plan

Electrical wiring in a private house is done before finishing work begins. The frame of the house is out, the walls and roof are ready - it's time to start work. The sequence of actions is as follows:

• Determination of the input type - single-phase (220 V) or three-phase (380 V).
• Development of a scheme, calculation of the capacity of the planned equipment, submission of documents and receipt of the project. Here it must be said that the technical specifications will not always determine your declared power; most likely they will allocate no more than 5 kW.
• Selection of components and components, purchase of meters, machines, cables, etc.
• . Performed by a specialized organization, you need to decide on the type - overhead or underground, install an input machine and a counter in the right place.
• Install electricity into the house.
• Laying cables inside the house, connecting sockets and switches.
• Ground loop design and its connection.
• Testing the system and obtaining a certificate.
• Electrical connection and operation.

This is only a general plan; each case has its own nuances and features, but you need to start by obtaining the technical conditions for connecting to the electrical network and the project. To do this, you need to decide on the type of input and the planned power consumption. It must be remembered that the preparation of documents can take six months, so it is better to submit them even before the start of construction: two years are given to fulfill the technical conditions. During this time, you will probably be able to build a wall on which you can put a machine and a counter.

How many phases

A private house can be supplied with single-phase voltage (220 V) or three-phase (380 V). According to energy consumption standards for a private house, the maximum consumption per house for a single-phase network can be 10-15 kW, for a three-phase network - 15 kW.

So what's the difference? The fact is that powerful electrical appliances can be directly connected to a three-phase network - electric stoves or heating boilers, ovens and similar equipment. However, the input requirements and wiring of the 380V network are much stricter: higher voltage, greater chance of serious injury. Therefore, if your house is no more than 100 square meters, and you do not think of heating it with electricity, you are better off using 220 V.

Making a plan and receiving a project

Having decided on the type of input, you can begin to develop a plan for electrifying your home. Take a scale plan of the house, and draw where the equipment will be located, figure out where to place the sockets and switches. In this case, you need to take into account where any large-sized furniture will be located, and where it can be rearranged, so that sockets and switches are not placed in these areas.

All lighting fixtures will need to be drawn on the plan: chandeliers, sconces, floor lamps, lamps. Some of them will need switches, some will need sockets. Then you will need to figure out which devices in each room will need to be turned on. For example, in the kitchen there is a lot of equipment that works constantly. It definitely needs sockets. There is also equipment that turns on periodically. All this is plotted on the plan, and the optimal location of the switching points is determined. The same approach applies to each of the rooms.

Determination of total power

Having decided approximately what equipment will be installed in your home, add up its power. The average power can be taken from the table: there is probably no technology yet. Moreover, where there are, take into account starting loads (they are much higher). Add about 20% of the reserve to the found amount. The result will be the required power. You indicate it in papers submitted to obtain permission to connect electricity to the site. If you are given the stated power, you will be very lucky, but you should not hope for it. Most likely, you will have to invest in the standard 5 kW - the most common electricity limit for a private home.

Breakdown of consumers into groups

All these consumers (this is the term of professionals) - lamps, spotlights, switches, sockets - are divided into groups. A separate branch runs electrics to lighting fixtures. Usually one is enough, but this is not a rule; it may be more convenient or expedient to make two branches - for each wing of the house or for each floor - depending on the type and configuration of the building. The lighting of the basement, utility rooms, as well as the light on the street stands out in a separate group.

Then the sockets are divided into groups. How many you can “put” on one wire depends on the diameter of the wire used, but not very much - three to five, no more. It is better to allocate a separate power supply line for connecting each powerful device: this is more reliable from the point of view of fire safety, and will contribute to a longer operation of the devices.

As a result, you may have three to seven lines going to the kitchen - this is where the equipment is most abundant and powerful too: for an electric boiler and electric stove, separate lines are absolutely needed. It is better to “plant” the refrigerator, microwave, electric oven, and washing machine separately. Not so powerful blender, food processor, etc. can be included in one line.

There are usually two to four lines going into the rooms: in a modern home and in any room there is something to plug into the electrical network. One line will go to lighting. On the second there will be sockets into which you will need to plug in your computer, router, TV, and phone charger. All of them are not very powerful and can be combined into one group. If you intend to install an air conditioner or turn on an electric heater, you will need separate lines.

If a private house is small - a dacha, for example, then there may be two or three groups: one for all lighting fixtures, the second for the street and the third for all internal sockets. In general, the number of groups is an individual matter and depends most of all on the size of the house and the amount of electrical equipment in it.

Based on the number of groups received, the number of machines on the distribution panel in the house is determined: to the received number of groups, add two to four for development (suddenly you forgot something important, or you need to turn on something new powerful, divide a group that is too large or far apart into two, etc.). The number of machines in it is also selected based on the number of groups: there is a separate machine for each group. If a private house is large - on several floors, it makes sense to install more powerful machines on each floor, and connect group machines to them.

Where to put the shield

The installation location of the electrical panel is not regulated by regulations. There are only restrictions regarding the distance from the pipelines; it must be at a distance of at least 1 meter. Any pipes are taken into account: water supply, heating, sewerage, internal drains, gas pipelines and even gas meters.

There are no restrictions on premises. Many people place the panel in: since it’s a technical room, it makes sense to collect all communications here. The receiving authorities do not make any claims. Sometimes it is more convenient to place the shield near the front door. If the protection class meets the requirements, there should be no claims.

Selection of cables and components

Today's standard wiring diagram for a private house includes two circuit breakers. One - input - is installed before the meter, usually on the street. It and the meter are sealed upon commissioning. The second RCD machine is placed in the house in front of the panel. The operation (shutdown) current of these devices is selected so that the circuit breaker installed in the house is turned off first (its current value is slightly less). Then, in the event of an emergency, you will not need to crawl under the roof.

If the estimated load is less than 15 kW, the circuit is standard - RCD + automatic circuit breaker, meter and then division into groups. For higher power consumption, it will be necessary to install a transformer; its parameters and the parameters of all equipment will be indicated in the project.

Recently, when connecting a private house to the power grid, they are required to install a meter and a machine on the street. This requirement is not supported by law; it is simply easier for the electricity service to control consumption. If you want, you can fight, if not, choose a meter and machine in a case with increased dust and moisture protection - a protection class of at least IP-55. For installation inside a building, the protection must be less - IP-44, and accordingly the price will be lower.

Cable selection

For electrical wiring in a private home, it is better to use cables rather than wires. Their insulation is at least twice as good, therefore the laying requirements are not so stringent, and they are safer to use. All internal wiring in a private house must be done with. Previously, there were no such requirements, but now many electrical appliances have three-pin plugs and require grounding for safe operation. Therefore, the cable must be three-core.

In electrical cables, the cores are made of copper or aluminum. Although aluminum is cheaper, it is used less often: it is rigid, more likely to break, and more difficult to work with. If you install electrical wiring in a private home yourself and lack experience, this can become a problem. In addition, it cannot be used inside wooden houses at all.

Determination of core cross-section

Once you have decided on the material, you can select the diameter of the cable cores. This is done depending on the planned load on the line according to the table.

Calculation of electrical wiring - the selection of the cross-section of the cable cores is carried out according to this table

The cross-section of the core is selected according to the current or power of all consumers connected to one circuit breaker. This is where your home electrification plan, where you have outlined consumer groups, will come in handy once again. You calculate the sum of the currents or powers of all devices and select the desired cross-section of the cores according to the table.

How to use the table? If you decide to lay copper wires, the input voltage is 220 V, then the left part, the corresponding column, is suitable for internal wiring. The found power of all consumers connected to the group will be compared (it is easier to find and calculate). In the part where we are talking about copper wires laid in trays, voids, channels, in the “220 V” column, find the nearest higher value. Follow this line to the right to the column “Section, sq. mm". The number indicated here will be the required core size. From conductors of this diameter it will be necessary to make electrical wiring from the machine to sockets or switches.

In order not to get confused when counting and laying, designate wires of the same diameter on the plan with a certain color (write it down so as not to forget what color you designated what). After the diameter has been determined for all consumer groups, the length of the required cables for each size is calculated, and a margin of 20-25% is added to the found figures. You have calculated the wiring for your home.

Shell type selection

There are certain requirements for the type of sheath only when laying electrical wiring in wooden houses: it is recommended to use triple (NYM) or double () cable insulation. In houses of less flammable materials, any insulation can be used. The main thing is that it is intact, without cracks, sagging or other damage. If you want to play it safe, you can use conductors with enhanced protection. This makes sense in rooms with high humidity (kitchen, bathroom, swimming pool, bathhouse, etc.).

Selection of sockets and switches

For some powerful devices, sockets are selected according to the maximum (starting) current. For other low-power consumers they are standard. You need to know that they exist:

• External - when the body sticks out from the wall. They are easier to install: a backing is attached to the wall, and a socket is attached to it on top. But few people use such models now, even at their dachas. The reason is aesthetic: not the most attractive sight.
• Internal. A recess is made in the wall for the electrical part, and an installation box is installed and walled up in it. The electrical part of the socket or switch is inserted inside this box.

It is indoor electrical sockets and switches that are most often used today. They are decorated in different styles and painted in different colors. They are selected mainly to match the finish, and if this is not possible, they are installed in white.

Read how to connect pass-through switches (turn on/off lights from two or more places).

DIY wiring

Modern construction trends provide for hidden wiring. It can be laid in specially made grooves in the walls - grooves. After laying and securing the cables, they are covered with putty, comparing them with the surface of the rest of the wall. If the erected walls will then be lined with sheet materials - plasterboard, gypsum plasterboard, etc., then grooves are not needed. The cables are laid in the gap between the wall and the finish, but in this case - only in corrugated sleeves. The shell with laid cables is attached with clamps to the structural elements.

When installing, you need to remember that the internal electrical wiring of a private house is done according to all the rules and recommendations. This is the only way to guarantee safety. The basic rules are:

• laying wiring only vertically and horizontally, no rounded corners or beveled routes;
• all connections must be made in ;
• horizontal transitions must be at a height of at least 2.5 meters, from which the cable runs down to the socket or switch.

A detailed route plan, similar to the one in the photo above, must be saved. It will come in handy during repairs or wiring upgrades. You will need to check with him if somewhere nearby you need to ditch or make a hole or hammer a nail. The main task is not to get caught in the cable.

A large percentage of electrical wiring problems come from poor wire connections. They can be done in several ways:

Still, the most reliable connection methods are welding and soldering. If it is possible to make the connection like this, you can assume that you will not have problems. At least with connections.

Installing electrical wiring in a house with your own hands requires careful fulfillment of all requirements. This is a guarantee of your privacy and the safety of your private property.

After the wires from the machine to the connection point of the socket or switch are laid, they are checked for integrity with a tester - the wires are connected to each other, checking the integrity of the conductors, and each individually to the ground - checking that the insulation is not damaged anywhere. If the cable is not damaged, proceed with the installation of the socket or switch. Once connected, everything is checked again with a tester. Then they can be started on the appropriate machine. Moreover, it is advisable to sign the machine immediately: it will be easier to navigate.

After finishing the electrical wiring throughout the house and checking everything yourself, they call electrical laboratory specialists. They check the condition of the conductors and insulation, measure grounding and zero, and based on the results they give you a test report (protocol). Without it you will not be given permission to put into operation.

Nowadays, a huge number of devices run on electricity. Therefore, there is often a need to supply electricity to the apartment or repair electrical wiring. This is quite a complex task, and it is best to entrust it to a professional. However, people who pretend to be electrical experts do not always actually be such. Therefore, you often have to do the wiring yourself. This article will tell you about most of the intricacies of this matter. Electrical wiring in each room has its own characteristics, so there are no absolutely universal ways to do it. However, the main points of conducting electricity into the house are similar.

First you need to connect the input cable (the wire that carries electricity from the power line into the house) to the . The panel contains an electricity meter, various protection devices, for example, circuit breakers or voltage stabilizers. There is also a node on the distribution (electrical) panel from which wires go to all energy consumers in the house (lighting devices, sockets). Moreover, it is advisable to connect one wire to the sockets, and another to the lighting devices, since not all lamps are designed for the voltage that should be supplied to the socket. But most modern lamps can still operate with this voltage, so it is not necessary to distribute the wires. All consumers should be connected in parallel, otherwise if one device fails, all of them will not work.

The shield can be located in a niche or hang on the wall. Moreover, a shield is hung directly on the wall only as a last resort - when the house does not have a special recess for it. The optimal location of the distribution board is in the hallway, at a height of about one and a half meters. If you install the panel this way, then you will always have access to the panel devices for inspection and repair, and it will be convenient to take meter readings.

Hidden and open installation of wiring in an apartment

Wiring can be open or hidden. The latter is more convenient, because all the wires are hidden and do not spoil the appearance of the rooms. That is why it is used in most apartments. And it is done at the time of construction of the building - the wire is laid in a special protective “sleeve” under the drywall, and then the surface is plastered.

If you, and there is no wiring at all or it is open, and you want to make it hidden, then you must first make recesses in the wall about 2 centimeters deep, lay the wire in it and connect it to the energy consumer. However, you cannot lay short wires diagonally so that you do not have to use long ones - this is prohibited by safety regulations! The only correct option is vertical and horizontal wires.

It would be ideal to lay the wires in special protective sleeves, as is done in the construction of most houses - but this will greatly increase the cost of the work. Protective sleeves are expensive, but they allow you to replace the wire without disturbing the plaster. The wire can simply be pulled out of the sleeve, repaired or replaced, and then returned to its place. In addition, the protective sleeve will prevent the wire from being damaged ahead of time.

The input wire must have a cross-section of at least 6 square millimeters. It is usually made of copper, but sometimes aluminum is also found. Copper ones are much better, because their resistance is one and a half times less than the resistance of aluminum ones.

The wires that supply voltage to energy consumers can be thinner, and it will also be better if they are copper. It is also desirable if the wire is single-core in PVC insulation - it will oxidize noticeably slower than in the case of multi-core wire.

Special socket boxes must be installed in a recess in the wall - they should not stick out, otherwise it will cause a lot of trouble when installing the socket itself. The boxes are secured using alabaster, which can be found in hardware stores.

Electrical wiring in the apartment: automation to protect it

The distribution board must contain an RCD - a residual current device. It will protect the wires from overheating in the event of a significant increase in current. Nowadays, several RCDs are installed in the switchboard - this increases the cost of installing wires, but makes the electrical wiring in the house more reliable. This solution also helps to quickly and easily eliminate possible wire faults - without turning off the electricity in the entire house, you just need to turn off the current on the faulty line.

Wiring for electrical equipment

Each room in the apartment must be equipped with overhead lighting (these are sanitary standards), which can be accompanied by local lighting - a floor lamp, table lamp, etc.

In addition, each room should have at least one outlet; for a computer, you can either provide about five outlets on the wall or make just one, but in addition to it, buy an uninterruptible power supply with several outlets - the second method is more expensive, but it will not help lose data on your computer in the event of a sudden power outage. And in the kitchen these days there are many appliances that also require electrical power, so it is important to provide enough outlets for them.

Switches in any room should be located close to the door, at approximately your height, but in such a way that when the door is opened, access to the switch is free. The highest quality switches and sockets are on a ceramic base with copper contacts. A cable, also made of copper, under the VVGng brand, must be connected to the contacts. This cable has special insulation that prevents it from catching fire. Its thickness is about 2.5 mm, it has three wires - phase, neutral and ground.

Geometry of wiring in an apartment

Electrical wiring, as already mentioned, must be laid only along horizontal and vertical lines; there cannot be any diagonals. Despite this strict rule, wires are often laid along the shortest route, to save money or due to ignorance of even basic electrical installation rules.

Wiring geometry

This rule was not invented by chance. There are often situations when, after changing the layout of a room or carrying out repairs, you need to drill a hole, and the drill hits exactly the place where the wire is laid. Firstly, if the wires were not protected with a special protective sleeve during installation, you will have to remove all the plaster in the damaged area, repair the wire and return everything to its place, and this will take a lot of time, effort and money. Secondly, the high voltage of the wire can damage the tool and drill, and you can get an electric shock.

However, even if you ran the wires along the wall to the outlet not diagonally, but along a broken line, the same situation may arise. The only correct option for placing the wire on the wall is strictly vertical, the wire must end with a socket - in no case should you leave at least one branch of wires without an energy consumer - otherwise a short circuit will occur and a fire may start.

Vertically laid wires must be removed from door and window openings at a distance of at least 100 mm. Near heating pipes, the installation must be carried out at a distance of at least 150-200 mm; in case of perpendicular intersection, the electrical wiring must be protected with asbestos gaskets. Parallel installation near pipelines with flammable substances (gas) is carried out at a distance of at least 400 mm.

The wire must be removed from the base of the ceiling by at least 150mm - otherwise, if you make suspended ceilings, the wire may be inaccessible. Even if you do not plan to make a stretch or suspended ceiling now, it may be necessary later, and then you will have to redo everything, which will lead to additional time and effort.

How to install electrical wiring in a panel house correctly

Most often, in panel houses, electrical wiring to sockets is laid in special technical channels not vertically, but with a slope, on average at an angle of 45 0. But not always - sometimes the wires are laid vertically. This creates additional inconvenience when changing the position of the socket or switch - if you need to move them to another place, you need to make a small recess in the panel to recess the wiring, and run it vertically down or up from the old location of the switch or socket.

That is why, when buying an apartment in a panel house, it would be best to ask the seller for a diagram of the wires on the walls. If you at least roughly know how the cables run, the risk of bumping into them when drilling a wall will be reduced to zero.

How to lay electrical wiring in the floor and ceiling

In the event that you are making a suspended or suspended ceiling, wiring on the ceiling can be done in the shortest possible way, because you do not have to drill the ceiling. The cable can be anything, but it is best to use NYM - it is triple insulated and does not need additional protection - it does not support combustion. If you use VVG or VVGng cables, then they need PVC protection. Any type of wiring is attached to the main ceiling using dowel clamps.

Under the floor, wires can also be laid in any way, in special protective pipes or in PVC corrugation.

Distribution boxes should not be located either on the ceiling or under the floor - each cable must go from the electrical panel directly to the energy consumer. This requirement is due to the fact that if such a box is damaged, you will have to remove the entire floor or remove the suspended ceiling - there is simply no other way to get to it and repair it.

Safety during electrical installation work

When laying the cable, safety precautions must be observed. Firstly, under no circumstances should you engage in laying wires if they are live - with any careless movement, a person can receive an electric shock, which can even lead to death. Therefore, before carrying out work, it is simply necessary to de-energize the wires; it would be best to disconnect them from the distribution board. And you can connect the wires to the power supply only after all the work has been completed and each end of each cable is connected to an energy consumer. Secondly, the cables must be insulated - otherwise, if droplets of water remain on the wires, a short circuit may occur when they are connected to a power source.

All these actions can be performed by yourself, but, as we have already said, it will be better if they are carried out by qualified electricians who know all the rules for laying cables, as well as safety precautions.

Video: Electrical wiring - installation in an apartment

As a rule, at the first stages of renovation, people usually have little idea of ​​the final result. And for proper electrical wiring, it would be very desirable to present it. Since the functionality and logic of the location of sockets, switches, lighting, and, in general, all wiring in general will depend on this.

The electrical wiring diagram in a private house or apartment should always start the same way, with drawing up an electrical plan. And that's why. Let’s say you made a repair, but didn’t think much about the end result, as the electrician advised, so you did. All is ready. We put the furniture in its place, arranged the consumer electronics, and what did we get? Catastrophe!

All sockets turned out to be in cold reserve, one was blocked by a closet, another by a sofa, a third by a chest of drawers and a fourth by a bedside table, even near the TV and favorite stereo system, as by the law of meanness, there were no sockets within a radius of 3-4 meters. And here begins a very fun and exciting game called, scatter extension cords and pilots throughout the apartment.

The question is, why did you make new electrical wiring so that you could then walk around and trip over extension cords? Of course no. And in an apartment, this is half the trouble, but an incorrectly executed electrical wiring diagram in a private house promises more global consequences. After all, if in apartments, wiring changes on average every 20-25 years, then in private residential buildings, much less often or never at all.

What to do? Sit down and think calmly, decide on the arrangement of furniture and household electronics. Be sure to note what new electrical appliances you plan to purchase in the coming years. For example: an air conditioner, a dishwasher, a freezer, an electric water heater, an electric oven or hob, and so on, and where, after these acquisitions, existing cabinets, sofas and bedside tables can be moved. Consult with your family, wife and children; in practice, their advice turns out to be very useful.

As a rule, electrical installation in an apartment begins with the planning stage. What does it mean? In order to correctly replace electrical wiring, installing new wires is not enough. It is primarily necessary to determine the installation locations of sockets, switches, household appliances, and so on.

If you do not properly arrange communications, it will be very unpleasant when, after completion of construction or repair and finishing work, some sockets are located behind cabinets or a bed, and switches are located either too high or too low.

Of course in such situations there is a way out! This is connecting extension cords, but a natural question arises - why then was it necessary to replace the electrical wiring if you constantly trip over them?

The first thing you need to do before starting a renovation is to develop a plan or order a design project. In this plan, you need to outline where you plan to place cabinets, sofas, armchairs, beds, cabinets, household appliances, and so on.

1. Peculiarities
2. Planning and scheme
3. Grouping
4. Laying methods
5. Work plan
6. Security measures
7. Scheme options
8. Conclusion

Planning and scheme

In order for such a task to be completed efficiently, you should draw up an approximate wiring diagram in the apartment indicating the location of electrical points, household appliances and their power consumption, their connection lines. It is during such work that the load is distributed evenly among groups, each of which will be protected by its own separate circuit breaker.

Switching electrical wiring in an apartment can be done in three main ways:

1. Conventional twisting is a fairly simple, but not always convenient method, the production of which can lead to heating of the connection if the traction is weak.
2. Soldered twisting is a rather labor-intensive and time-consuming method, but the contact is tight and protected from heat.
3. Application of terminal blocks. Previously, screw clamps were used for these purposes, requiring additional time for installation. Today, WAGO contactors are becoming more and more common, which allow you to complete electrical work as quickly as possible.

Electrical wiring in an apartment can be hidden or open (external). Each person decides which method to use, but it should be noted that hidden electrical wiring is more reliable. This is applicable in buildings made of concrete, brick or foam concrete. As for log houses or panel structures that do not involve wall gating, they often use open wiring.