INSTRUCTIONS AND PROPHECIES OF THE Blessed MOTHER ALIPIA GOLOSEEVSKY, Kyiv...
Siberian iris is absolutely unpretentious, winter-hardy and resistant to various diseases. All these he fully passed on to his offspring. This was appreciated by practical Americans and immediately launched breeding activities for this species. As a result of the work done, a whole galaxy of excellent varieties has been obtained. this plant.
Currently, flower growers all over the world are infatuated with a new variety of irises. Siberian irises, the cultivation of which is possible in our conditions, today are of great interest to amateurs.
it perennial with a fairly strong root system. It is a misconception that the Siberian iris belongs to bulbous crops. The leaves of these flowers are thin, xiphoid, flat, with a wax coating, usually collected in a bunch in the form of a fan. Roots - fibrous and filiform, have the ability to improve the structural
Siberian iris blooms, depending on the variety, up to five days, from May to June. It has a large peduncle, which usually consists of six petals and is distinguished by its elegant shape and rich range of various shades. The outer and inner parts of the flower differ in size, color and shape. The fruits of the iris are long trihedral boxes, the seeds are quite large and ribbed, Brown color. Their number in one seed box is from 25 to 45 pieces.
Common varieties of irises
bearded iris
This variety got its name due to the presence of outer petals, decorated at the base with stripes of hairs of a contrasting color, which clearly stand out against the background of the flower itself. bearded irises can be tall, short and medium. The color of their flowers can be blue or purple with the original edging.
Russian iris
This iris grows in low, fairly dense bushes. The flowers of this species are fragrant, medium in size, usually have a lilac or purple color. The advantage of these flowers is that they are suitable for stony soils.
Siberian iris
The height of representatives of this variety is about 1 meter. Siberian iris is quite hardy to temperature extremes. Its leaves are narrow and green, persist until the first frost. The flowers of this iris are predominantly purple or of blue color. All varieties bred on the basis of Siberian iris are united in the section of beardless irises Limniris.
swamp iris
Iris marsh can reach a height of up to one meter. Flowers - yellow color with brownish streaks. The flowering period of this variety is from May to June. He is quite thermophilic, prefers the sunny side or partial shade. This type iris grows fast enough. It is mainly used for decorating reservoirs up to 40 cm deep. It tolerates water salinity well.
dwarf iris
This variety was imported from maximum height reaches 10 cm. When growing, it forms medium-sized bushes. It blooms in May with small flowers that have a variety of colors.
Japanese iris
The flower can be small, medium, large or very large. The shape of the iris can be simple, double or terry. The height of this iris varies, it can be both very short and quite high. According to the flowering time, depending on the variety, early and very late species can be distinguished. Flowers are purple or purple hue. This variety is not hardy.
Growing conditions
Siberian iris prefers to grow on fertile soils. It does not tolerate excess moisture and strong shading. Nitrogen in large doses causes various diseases in this variety. Loamy soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction is suitable for intensive growth.
Application
Since irises are very diverse and decorative, they are used quite widely. These flowers are planted along the shores of artificial reservoirs, planted on and also created from them. miniature gardens.
A very beautiful combination is obtained from irises with poppies, lupins, phlox, peonies and saxifrage. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the fact that irises are not very competitive, therefore, rapidly growing perennials can easily suppress them.
SIBERIAN IRIS. LANDING AND CARE
Siberian iris, Strawberry Fair variety
If, speaking of roses, we use the title of “queen” of the garden, then noble and stately irises can rightly be called kings. Tall plants from early spring begin to delight the eyes with light emerald greens. Large crested flowers, according to ancient Greek mythology, got their name from Iris, the goddess of the rainbow. The golden-haired messenger of the gods fluttered on her iridescent and transparent wings, carrying out their orders. In her honor, people decided to name magnificent irises, which in a variety of shades could compete with the rainbow itself.
Indeed, the beauty of the plant does not leave anyone indifferent. To grow irises like this, you need to know the features of planting and care for each type. Siberian irises
, for example, make different demands than bearded ones, and do not accept content at all marsh iris
.
Selecting a landing site Siberian irises
One of the fundamental factors for the successful cultivation of Siberian irises in the garden is the competent choice of a place with a suitable level of illumination. In the southern regions, the plant must be planted so that it is hidden from the scorching sun at noon, to the north (including in the Moscow region) - in an open warm place. In the light shade of trees and shrubs, at a small distance from the trunk, it can grow natural look Iris Siberian, in hybrids, the decorative effect of flowering is reduced.
Siberian irises love water, but in moderation. They absorb the necessary moisture from the depth of the soil with their long rhizomes up to half a meter. Excessive waterlogging can harm them, so when planting, lowlands and places with swampy soil where water stagnation occurs.
"Siberians" are one of the most unpretentious garden plants. Their tall peduncles do not need to be tied up, as they are not afraid of the winds, so they can be planted in an open place that is not protected from the wind. They grow on a variety of soils, the main thing is to ensure good drainage. Moreover, they themselves improve its structure, get rid of weeds and even heal, as they are not affected by many diseases of their relatives. The best for them will be loamy, organic-rich soil with a pH of 5.5-7.
Transplantation (planting) of Siberian irises
Siberian iris, Silver Girl variety
In one place, the plant can successfully vegetate up to 10 years, there are cases of flowering at the age of 25. However, it all depends on the characteristics of the care and plant variety. Therefore, with a decrease in the quality of flowering and an increasing density of plantings, Siberian rice should be transplanted, dividing into a bush into parts.
The planting of Siberian irises must be approached thoroughly, since it will be more difficult to correct mistakes. Deeply penetrating rhizomes need deeply cultivated fertile soil. The site is preliminarily dug up on a shovel bayonet, weeds are removed, compost or humus, mineral fertilizers are applied, if necessary, they improve the soil structure (add sand on heavy and wet, and clay on loose soils), normalize acidity (very acidic soils are limed, and alkaline soils are enriched with riding peat or sulfur is added, you can sprinkle with pine needles).
Separated rhizomes are best planted immediately at a sufficient distance from each other. It is determined depending on the characteristics of the variety, the speed and intensity of growth, as well as the planned growing time in one place. The longer it is planned to keep in one place, the greater the distance when planting, up to a meter for fast-growing varieties
Unpretentious "Siberians" tolerate transplantation well at any time of the warm season. However, it is better to do this at the very beginning of the spring growing season or in the second half of August, when annual growths and young roots have formed on the rhizome. Some flower growers transplant irises two weeks after flowering, when new roots are just starting to grow, and transplanting them will not hurt.
The delenka is broken off so that it has a fan of several leaves (at least 2) and a healthy, rot-free, developed rhizome with roots. If it is not possible to plant it immediately, then until planting it should be in a wet state, do not dry. The leaves are cut off by a third, very long roots can be shortened a little so that they enter the hole. Holes are made at a distance of 35 cm between plants ( average value). The rhizome must be deepened, that is, it is covered from above with soil the height of a matchbox. Leaves in the form of a fan are pressed tightly with the ground so that they maintain a vertical position. Watered. The soil around is mulched with a 5-centimeter layer of peat. In hot weather, plants shade. In the first months after planting, soil moisture is constantly maintained.
Rooting takes a long time, so young plants may not bloom in the first year, bud formation is more likely to begin when a large bush develops.
On the video: Planting Siberian irises, their vegetative reproduction dividing the bush
Rules for planting Siberian irises after purchase
Planting rhizomes of hybrid Siberians purchased in bags at garden centers is best done under temporary shelter. Small delenki planted in this way will quickly grow roots and rhizomes, it will be easier to take root and overwinter, because the shelter will help increase the warm growing season.
If there are few rhizomes for planting, each can be planted in a pot and grown in it, providing regular watering and frost protection. If necessary, bring to the veranda, balcony. Later planted in a permanent place.
If on planting material there are no roots, and the rhizome has a healthy appearance, you should not worry. With proper planting and care, it will soon build them up.
If the roots are dry, before planting, the rhizome should be soaked in water for 5-48 hours in water. It is good to soak the rhizomes for 2-3 hours before planting in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or another growth stimulant.
At spring planting the rhizome can be planted immediately in the ground, during the summer months they will grow well and prepare for wintering.
Siberian Iris Care
After planting, the main task of caring for the plant is timely watering, periodic feeding with complex mineral and organic fertilizers, autumn pruning and shelter if necessary.
Watering and removing inflorescences
Siberian irises are watered about once a week, making sure that the water sinks deep into the soil, and not just wets its surface. Best time for watering - morning or evening, so that the hot sun does not immediately dry out the soil, and the plants have time to get drunk. With dry hot weather, especially in spring, you will have to water more often. Mass flowering, as a rule, begins in the first half of summer. At this point, the plant especially needs moisture. It also needs timely removal of wilted flowers. The seeds of Siberian irises are fast enough, but their development is completely unnecessary for the plant and will only take away extra strength. In addition, numerous self-seeding outward signs does not have hybrids.
Mulching
Mulching helps reduce the frequency of watering and avoid excess moisture. It also protects against weeds. The best option- peat, humus. You can take freshly cut grass or sawdust. Under the thickness of dry grass, mice can live and gnaw out rhizomes and buds, so it is not used.
top dressing
Watering with fertilizers is carried out twice - three times per season. First time in early spring, necessarily with a predominance of nitrogen components in the composition. Under the plants, you can additionally pour half a bucket or a bucket of humus. The second dressing is appropriate when the plant begins to form flower stalks and buds. In this case, a complex soluble fertilizer or organic in liquid form is used. After the end of flowering (in the third top dressing), the elements of phosphorus and potassium should prevail, and the nitrogen content should be minimal or completely absent. If acidification of the soil is required, it is better to use nitrate (ammonia, potassium) for top dressing.
Sometimes, in addition to or instead of the root, monthly foliar top dressing is used - a complex soluble fertilizer is sprayed over the leaves of the plant. It is impossible to get on the flowers, as well as with water when watering, from this they lose their attractiveness. It is very important not only not to fertilize the plant, but also not to overfeed it. Therefore, in each case, depending on the growing conditions and appearance plants need to determine the methods and amount of fertilizer application. In the year of planting, irises are not fed at all, since the necessary nutrients introduced when planting in the ground.
Preparing for winter
Closer to winter, when the leaves of the plant inevitably begin to lose their decorative effect, it is better to remove them as they turn yellow and wither, cutting them off at a height of 5 cm. Early pruning is harmful to the plant, since the planting flower buds feed on substances from the leaves. Leaves that have lost their green color, on the contrary, must be cut off to make it easier for young shoots to germinate in the spring.
Mulch in autumn upper layer soil with good humus. The rhizome of irises grows not only in depth and over time begins to protrude strongly on the surface. Mulch helps protect roots from exposure environment and freezing. In addition, on young plantings, bulging of the soil is possible and, as a result, a violation of the root system, which prevents mulching.
Reproduction of Siberian irises
Siberian iris, Caesar's Brother variety
Propagation by seeds of garden irises is not practiced in everyday life (with the exception of Sino-Siberian irises), breeders do this. Like other irises, Siberian irises reproduce perfectly by dividing the bush.
For propagation, a part of an annual rhizome (growth) with a diameter of 2 to 2.5 cm is used, on which there are 3-4 fan-shaped leaves (sprouts). Such a plant will take root well, overwinter, but will bloom only after a season. A biennial growth with 6-8 leaves can be used. He will take root longer and with autumn planting can freeze without shelter. But the flowers will appear on it a year earlier.
Optimal breeding time for Siberian irises:
in early spring, as soon as the first shoots break through. The advantage is that in autumn the plant will be able to grow a better rhizome and lay more buds, overwinter well, while a young plant planted in autumn can be damaged by frost.
in the second half of August, when the one-year growth used in reproduction reaches optimal sizes and has the ability to take root before frost and winter well.
Diseases
Siberian irises are resistant to many diseases that their relatives suffer from. Therefore, they can be safely planted where the “bearded” have grown for a long time and a lot of infection has accumulated in the soil.
For irises of all varieties, diseases of a fungal nature are most typical, which affect the base of leaf bundles. This happens most often due to an excess of moisture in combination with a cool temperature or its sudden changes during the day. For treatment and prevention, fungicidal preparations should be used. The affected areas are pre-cut out. If necessary, sprinkle with crushed coal. Plants are transplanted into healthy soil.
In some very rare cases, diseased plants are removed. For example, when scorching. Its symptoms - the leaves of the iris become red-brown, as if burned, later the roots and rhizomes die off.
A viral mosaic is contagious, therefore, when a mosaic appears in any part of the plant, it is dug up and destroyed, and the soil is replaced with a healthy one. In order not to be confused with other non-dangerous diseases, the affected area is cut out, treated with a fungicidal preparation and observed. If the mosaic appears again, the bush is removed.
If the soil has a strongly alkaline environment, then the iron may not be absorbed by the plant and, as a result, the leaves may turn yellow. In this case, it is recommended to apply an acidic mulch or spray and water with an iron chelate solution.
Pests
Scoop caterpillars (damage shoots), thrips (leaves dry), sawflies, slugs, snails, cruciferous fleas, ants are considered pests of Siberian irises, there is a possibility of aphids being affected. It is easy to notice it at the very base of the leaves. In this case, you can try to folk methods: an infusion of garlic or green tomato leaves, a solution of water and soap (it is more convenient to use liquid) with the addition of any vegetable oil. If the problem becomes widespread and large-scale, then special insecticides cannot be dispensed with: Karbofos, Fury, Fufanon, Aktellik, etc. With their help, you can cope with other pests, but it is better to carry out preventive spring spraying when leaves appear. Basudin scattered on the soil will protect from caterpillars.
When not properly mulched, Siberian irises kill mice and voles that feed on their rhizomes.
Siberian irises in landscape design
Siberian irises in the flower garden
For landscape design in general and a separate garden in particular, the Siberian iris is of great value. It endures even the most frosty winters with weak snow cover, high humidity soil, in addition, it is distinguished by an abundance of color of flowers and a variety of their shape. Irises are equally good both in group plantings and in single ones, creating large bushes in just a few years. Their leaves remain decorative from spring to late autumn. When planting Siberian irises with perennials, it is better to choose moisture-loving neighbors who also need watering. Daylilies can be their partners, aquilegia , bathing suit, lilies, aconites . Siberian irises are good near a pond, in natural-style gardens, on the border of a lawn. They are suitable for cutting. Unlike bearded irises each flower they keep open is not 1, but 3-4 days.
Siberian iris is a perennial plant with a powerful root system that can improve soil structure. Its height can reach up to 1 meter. The leaves of this plant are xiphoid, thin, flat, with a wax coating, most often collected in a fan. bright flowers irises bloom for about 5 days in May-June.
The flower has a large peduncle of 6 petals and is distinguished by its elegant shape and various rich shades. The outer and inner parts of the flower are different size, shape and color. Most often they are blue or purple. The fruits of the plant are long trihedral boxes, the seeds are large, ribbed, brown. Varieties obtained on the basis of Siberian iris are usually combined into the section of beardless irises Limniris.
Growing conditions
Siberian iris grows well on fertile soils, does not tolerate excessive dampness and severe darkening. An excess of nitrogen fertilizers can cause various diseases in this plant. The most intensive growth is observed on loamy soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. The earth is preliminarily dug up to a depth of about 20 cm, then humus, potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen are introduced to the planting site, fresh manure can only be applied in advance, best of all in a year. The most optimal time for landing is the end of August or the beginning of September.
The subsequent care of irises consists in constant weeding, loosening, watering and top dressing. Periodically, plants are transplanted, otherwise, individual parts of the rhizomes are forced out to the surface of the soil. This, in turn, leads to a decrease in the area of nutrition, the irises stop blooming, the leaves become small, the overall decorative effect of the bushes decreases. Therefore, every 6-8 years the plants must be transplanted. In winters with little snow, irises can be covered with a layer of peat, humus or spruce branches.
Application
Due to their decorative effect, irises are widely used in the creation of various flower beds. Often they are placed near water bodies or used to create mono-flowers. Alpine slides may also be a suitable place for these plants. They look beautiful in composition with poppies, lupins, phlox, peonies, sedum, saxifrage and various bulbs.
However, we should not forget that irises are not very competitive, other well-growing perennials easily suppress them. Also keep in mind that contrasting color combinations look the most advantageous, for example, dark irises will look better against the background. light colors. In addition, these flowers give a stable cut.
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Siberian irises are perennial, very undemanding plants growing in almost any soil. With their powerful root system, they not only improve physical properties soil, but also rid it of pathogenic fungi and bacteria. By planting these plants, you kind of disinfect your land.
Site selection
Since frequent transplants of Siberian irises are laborious and undesirable, before planting, you should consider their placement and find the most optimal ones.The most important thing in choosing a place is the illumination of the site. For some reason, it is generally accepted that Siberian irises should be planted in the shade. In fact, they grow best in well-lit areas. When planting in a very sunny place, rarely standing trees and shrubs will be useful, giving a light shade, but in this case you can not plant irises close to them, because. tree roots dry up the soil. Optimal distance 2 m.
For irises planted in partial shade, flowering is delayed by a week compared to the same variety, but growing in a sunny place. In heavily shaded areas, irises will grow but not bloom.
Site moisture is important. "Siberians" are not so fond of moisture, as is commonly believed. They withstand flooding in the spring with meltwater, but do not grow in water. On excessively moist soils, drainage is required for their planting. They can also grow in elevated dry places, but then they should be watered frequently, especially during the flowering period.
Unlike bearded irises, Siberian irises are wind resistant. They can be planted in areas open to all winds. Bushes with powerful foliage and strong peduncles perfectly resist the wind.
The soil
Neutral or slightly acidic soil works best. Lime and sand should be added to acidic and heavy soils, and peat should be added to alkaline soils. If you have a light loam, and even rich in humus, then your land is the best suited for growing "Siberians".Sandy soils are the poorest. and moisture, nutrients quickly leave it. It is not easy to adapt such soils, but it is possible - by introducing peat, clay, compost, manure, humus into them.
On peat soils, irises also do not grow well, because. they are too waterlogged and very acidic, but even in such areas these plants can be grown by making drainage and adding lime.
Landing
Before planting, it is necessary to dig up the ground and carefully select weeds, especially such as sow thistle, wheatgrass, gout, bindweed, horsetail. highly developed root system Siberian irises forms a very dense turf, but even its rhizomes of wheatgrass "stitch" through. It may be that to get rid of weeds, the site will have to be treated with a roundup - it is advisable to do this in advance, a year before planting.Boarding is possible and spring and autumn. They are transplanted in the summer 2-3 weeks after flowering. In the spring they try to plant them as early as possible: at the beginning of the growing season, when young leaves have just appeared and the plants have barely begun to grow; if transplanted later, the regrown tender roots will be damaged, and the plant will hurt.
In summer, an indicator for transplantation is the regrowth of young roots. They usually appear 2-3 weeks after flowering. Immediately after flowering, faded flower stalks should be cut out - then there will be more strength for rooting, they will not be used to ripen the seeds.
In autumn, they should not be planted too late: it takes a month with positive air temperatures to root delenki.
Before planting, the leaves and roots are cut by a third to reduce evaporation. Unlike bearded irises, Siberian rhizomes are deepened by 3-5 cm. If the roots have dried up during transplantation, then they should be soaked for several hours in water with some kind of growth stimulant (heteroauxin, root, potassium permanganate). You can leave them in the water even overnight. 
In well-dug soil, holes are made so deep that the roots do not bend when planting. Then the pits are filled with fertile soil and compacted around the plant, watered.
You can plant in an accelerated way:
The blade of the shovel is driven vertically to the full depth, then the stalk of the shovel is taken 30-40 degrees to the side and the iris is planted in the gap formed. After that, they pull out a shovel, fall asleep and compact the earth around the roots. 
It is advisable to mulch the soil surface to a height of 3-5 cm with peat, compost or mowed grass - this prevents moisture loss in the soil.
After planting, the delenki should be shaded from the scorching sun if the planting was carried out in the summer. To do this, it is enough to stick broken branches of any trees with leaves into the ground in front of the planted irises.
Watering
Watering is required, but you should be aware of the acidity of the water. Typically, water has an acidity above 7, and so it will gradually increase the acidity of the soil. To prevent this, you can add sulfur to the soil before planting or water the plants with an aqueous solution of ferrous sulfate (30 g per 10 liters of water). Light green with yellow color of the foliage will tell you that the acidity of the soil has exceeded 7.5-8.0. This prevents the access of nitrogen, and the foliage begins to turn yellow."Siberians" will grow well only where the soil under them always remains cool and moist. You don't have to fill them up every day. Moisture can be achieved by mulching the soil with a layer of freshly cut grass or pine-spruce needles. In addition, such a simple technique will also save plantings from weeds.
It is necessary to water quite often, it is better to do this early in the morning (no later than 11) or in the evening. At the same time, one must try to ensure that drops of water do not fall on the flowers - otherwise their decorative effect will disappear.
Fertilizers and top dressings
In early spring, when the snow has not yet completely melted, but the bushes are already visible, they should be fed with complete mineral fertilizer ("Kemira wagon"), scattering it around the bushes at the rate of 60-80 g per bush.In early May, it would be nice to do preventive spraying with insecticides against pests waking up from hibernation: winter scoop, thrips, sawfly.
It is advisable to give a second top dressing before flowering, so that it is more lush. You can use for this purpose both organic (compost, slurry, fermented grass) and mineral fertilizers.
The third time it is worth feeding after flowering. Iris bushes are shed with soluble phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, in which nitrogen is present in minimal quantities (or better without it at all).
