Do-it-yourself sewer well: tips and tricks. How to make a sewer well with your own hands: calculation and installation How to make a drain well

Don't often have to do sewer well with your own hands. As a rule, such a serious event will take place during the construction of a new house. Or perhaps you have purchased finished house or give.

The first moment of happiness has passed and now you need to think about how to make your purchase more comfortable and fit for a normal life. It is very important to create comfort that it has a water supply and sewerage system.

It is not for nothing that when they write in ads for the sale “a house with all amenities” or “a house without amenities”, they mean exactly the presence or absence of the above systems.

If there is no water supply in the house or internal sewerage you will have to work hard.

The first step is to decide how to make a sewer well.

Of course, you can hire specialists who will do everything necessary calculations and work. But this is a rather expensive pleasure, so many decide to make a sewer well for a summer residence or for country house with your own hands.

A bit of theory

Sewer networks divided into:

• outdoor;
• internal.

The internal sewerage system is the one inside the house, respectively, the external system runs outside the house.

During design and installation sewer system one of the main problems will be determining the place where the wastewater will flow. It is best to connect to the central sewer system.

In the same case, if there are no city sewer pipes near your house or plot, you just have to equip the sewer well yourself.

First you need to decide on the exit point. sewer pipe from the basement or basement of the house (for this you already need to know where all the plumbing will be located in the house) in order to know from which side you can arrange a sewer well.

Your attention!

Where to place a sewer well for a summer residence or a private house?

The scheme of the sewer well must be drawn up taking into account all these nuances, if you want to have a normally working sewer system in the house and fresh air Location on.

What questions arise with self-employment?

1. What size to make a sewer well?

If we are talking about a simple cesspool, then the larger the better - less often you will have to call a sewage pumping machine.

There is a general formula that determines the volume of a sewer well. But all this is conditional and depends on the intensity of the use of water and therefore sewerage.

For example: for a family of 3-4 people living in a country house, 3-4 reinforced concrete rings will not always be required.

1. To make the well airtight or leave the possibility of wastewater entering the ground?

There is no definite answer to this question - hermetically or not, it all depends on a particular case.

According to the norms and rules, a sewer well must be built airtight, that is, the bottom and walls must be tightly concreted. But this entails additional material costs, since how much water is poured into the sewer, so much will have to be taken out by a sewage truck.

Therefore more common on our summer cottages are wells with a filtering bottom, through which liquid fractions of sewage seep into the soil surrounding the well.

If you decide to save on export Wastewater, making the sewer well leaky, then you will have to take into account some nuances during construction, otherwise a foul-smelling swamp will soon form around the well, and it will be impossible to drink water from nearby aquifers.

The main requirement, as mentioned above, is the distance between the sewer and drinking wells must be at least 30 meters. The depth of the sewer well will depend on the structure of the soil, you need to reach well-filtering soil (sand).

The bottom of such a sewer well must be covered with rubble from a height of 30 to 40 cm. If your site has a high level ground water(1.5 miles above), you should not use this type of well, as the faecal water will mix with the ground water and this can lead to poisoning or other unpleasant consequences.

1. What to make a sewer well?

Sewer wells are:

• brick;
• Reinforced concrete;
• Wooden;
• Assembled plastic.

In practice, a variety of materials are used for the construction of sewer wells. You can lay out the walls of the well with red or silicate bricks, you can line the walls of the sewer well wooden planks impregnated with a special solution against decay.

Quite unconventional materials are also often used, for example, wells are often found, the walls of which are lined with cut tractor tires.

But still, reinforced concrete rings are most often used for the construction of sewer wells because of the simplicity of design and ease of installation.

The easiest to install plastic sewer wells.

In fact, to install them, you only need to dig a hole of the required size, lay out the foundation, install a well and connect a sewer. But so far, for the average consumer, the cost of such wells is still quite high, although this type of sewer wells is the most environmentally friendly and pays for itself over time.

The period for the removal of sewage is significantly increased. On average, impurities from plastic wells must be taken out once a year.

How to sewer with reinforced concrete wells?

It is clear that the sewer well will consist of several iron concrete rings. The scheme of the sewer well is simple - these are several rings standing on top of each other and fastened together.

Installation diagram:

• Install the first ring in the designated area for the sewer well.
• Now you need to dig inside and along the edge of the ring the hole itself. From time to time it is necessary to plant the ring down, this will require at least two people so that the ring is seated without distortions. Yes, it is most convenient if one person digs and the second one pulls out the soil.
• When the upper edge of the first ring drops to ground level, we install the second ring exactly on top of the first ring, and the “locks” of the rings must be placed one above the other.
• We continue in the same spirit until all the rings fall below ground level. Carefully measure the depth at which the drain sewer pipe fits into the well. Please note that the pipe must enter the sewer well at a depth of at least 0.6 meters from the surface, otherwise it will freeze in winter.
• Do not forget that the hole in the upper ring for entering the pipe must be punched before the ring goes underground.
• On top of the rings we make formwork from brickwork(this is necessary for the insulation of the sewer well).
• We install on the formwork reinforced concrete slab with hatch.
• The sewer well must be waterproofed from above. This is necessary so that melt water or precipitation does not fall into the sewer well.

The scheme of sewer wells such as septic tanks is more complicated, but such a well can also be made with your own hands. In fact, the septic tank is the simplest treatment plant for the treatment of small volumes of wastewater.

Simplified is two (or more) adjacent wells connected by an overflow pipe.

In this case, the first container is a chamber with a sealed bottom and the initial settling of sewage takes place in it. As it fills up, lighter liquid fractions enter the second chamber with a filter base through the overflow pipe, and the almost purified wastewater goes into the ground.

Like conventional sewer wells, septic tanks are also available in ready-made in the form of two connected plastic containers. In this case, you just have to prepare the appropriate hole and connect the sewer pipe coming from the house.

Using a septic tank instead of a conventional well has several advantages:

• much higher degree of cleaning and less soil pollution around the well;
• practical absence unpleasant odors next to wells;
• the period between calls to the sewage truck increases;
• A septic tank is the most environmentally friendly option for an outdoor sewer system that you can build yourself.

An urgent question that torments everyone who wants to live in private country houses unable to connect to central water supply and plumbing how to do autonomous sewerage. Indeed, without it, it is not possible to fully use such benefits of civilization as a bath, shower, kitchen sink, washing machine and much more. Sewerage in a private house can be equipped different ways, which we will discuss in this article. Choosing the right system for your individual conditions and needs is even more important than putting it into practice.

What can be a sewerage system - a private house with permanent and temporary residence

The option of arranging the drainage system in private homes is selected depending on several conditions:

• House with permanent or temporary residence.
• How many people permanently live in the house.
• What is the daily water consumption per person in the house (depends on the number of water consumers, such as a bathroom, shower, toilet, sink, washbasin, washing machine, etc.)
• What is the level of groundwater.
• What is the size of the plot, how much space can be used for treatment systems.
• What is the structure and type of soil on the site.
• Climatic conditions of the area.

More detailed information about the requirements can be found in the relevant sections of SanPin and SNiP.

Conventionally, all sewage systems in a private house can be divided into only two types:

• Accumulation systems(cesspool without a bottom, sealed container for drains).
• Wastewater treatment facilities(the simplest single-chamber septic tank with soil cleaning, a two-chamber septic tank - overflowing wells with natural cleaning, a two - three-chamber septic tank with a filtration field, a septic tank with a biofilter, a septic tank (aerotank) with a constant air supply).

The most ancient, proven for centuries and even millennia, way of arranging sewage is a cesspool. Some 50-70 years ago there was no alternative to this method at all. But at the same time, people did not use this a large number of water in private homes, as today.

The cesspool is a well without a bottom. Walls cesspool can be made of brick, concrete rings, concrete or other material. Soil remains at the bottom. When runoff from the house enters the pit, more or less clean water seeps into the soil, being cleansed. Fecal matter and other solid organic waste settle to the bottom, accumulating. Over time, the well is filled with solid waste, then it must be cleaned.

Previously, the walls of the cesspool were not made waterproof, then when filling the pit, they simply dug it in and pulled out a new one in another place.

I would like to note right away that a sewerage device in a private house using a cesspool is possible only if the average daily volume of effluents is less than 1 m3. In this case, soil microorganisms that live in the soil and feed on organic matter have time to process the water that penetrates the soil through the bottom of the pit. If the volume of runoff is more than this norm, the water does not undergo sufficient purification, penetrates into the soil and pollutes groundwater. This is fraught with the fact that wells and other water sources can be contaminated within a radius of 50 m. The addition of microorganisms to the cesspool somewhat reduces bad smell emanating from it, and also speeds up the process of water purification. But still, it's not worth the risk.

Conclusion. A cesspool without a bottom can be built if there are visits to the house 2-3 days a week and do not consume much water. At the same time, the level of groundwater occurrence must be at least 1 m lower than the bottom of the pit, otherwise pollution of the soil and the water source cannot be avoided. Despite the lowest cost of arrangement, the cesspool is not popular in modern country houses and cottages.

Sealed container - storage tank

A sealed container is installed on the site near the house, into which sewage and waste from the whole house flow through pipes. This container can be ready-made, store-bought, and made of plastic, metal, or other material. And it can be mounted independently from concrete rings, the bottom is made of concrete, and the cover is made of metal. The main condition for installing sewerage in a private house of this type is complete tightness. Pragma corrugated pipes are suitable for sewerage.

When the container is full, it must be emptied. To do this, a sewer machine is called, the call of which costs from 15 to 30 USD. The frequency of emptying the tank, as well as the required volume, depends on the number of drains. For example, if 4 people live permanently in the house, use the bathroom, shower, sink, toilet, washing machine, then the minimum volume storage tank should be 8 m3, it will have to be cleaned every 10 - 13 days.

Conclusion. A sealed cesspool is one of the options for how to sewer in a private house if the groundwater level in the area is high. This will completely protect the soil and water sources from possible pollution. The disadvantage of such a sewage system is that you will often have to call a sewage truck. To do this, from the very beginning it is necessary to correctly calculate the installation location of the tank in order to provide convenient access to it. The bottom of the pit or container must not be deeper than 3 m from the soil surface, otherwise the cleaning hose will not reach the bottom. The container lid must be insulated to protect the pipeline from freezing. For such a sewer in a private house, the cost depends on the material of the container. The cheapest option would be to purchase second-hand eurocubes, the most expensive - concrete pouring or brick. In addition, there are monthly cleaning costs.

Single-chamber septic tank - the simplest option for soil cleaning

A single-chamber septic tank is not far from the cesspool, very often it is called that. It is a well, at the bottom of which crushed stone is covered with a layer of at least 30 cm, and coarse-grained sand is covered with the same layer on top. Wastewater flows through pipes into a well, where water, seeping through a layer of sand, gravel, and then soil, is cleaned by 50%. Adding sand and gravel improves the quality of water purification and partially faeces, but does not solve the problem radically.

Conclusion. Sewerage in a private house using single-chamber septic tank impossible with permanent residence and large volumes of effluents. Only for houses with temporary residence and low groundwater levels. After some time, crushed stone and sand will need to be completely replaced, as they will silt.

Two-chamber septic tank - overflow settling wells

As one of the economical sewer options that you can install yourself, the arrangement of overflow settling wells and filter wells is universally popular.

This sewerage system in a private house consists of two wells: one with a sealed bottom, the second without a bottom, but with powders, as in the previous method (crushed stone and sand). Wastewater from the house enters the first well, where solid organic waste and feces sink to the bottom, fatty ones float to the surface, and more or less clarified water forms between them. At a height of about 2/3 of the first well, it is connected to the second well by an overflow pipe, located slightly at an angle so that water can flow there unhindered. Partially clarified water enters the second well, where it seeps through a powder of crushed stone, sand and soil, it is cleaned even more and leaves.

The first well is a sump, and the second is a filter well. Over time, a critical mass of feces accumulates in the first well, for the removal of which it is necessary to call a sewage machine. You will have to do this about once every 4 to 6 months. To reduce the unpleasant smell, microorganisms are added to the first well, which decompose the feces.

Overflow sewerage in a private house: photo - example

A two-chamber septic tank can be made independently from concrete rings, concrete or brick, or you can purchase a ready-made (plastic) one from the manufacturer. In the finished two-chamber septic tank, additional cleaning will also take place with the help of special microorganisms.

Conclusion. It is possible to install a sewerage system in a private house from two overflow wells only if the groundwater level, even during a flood, is 1 m lower from the bottom of the second well. Ideal conditions is sandy or sandy loamy soil on the site. After 5 years, crushed stone and sand in the filter well will have to be replaced.

Septic tank with filtration field - biological and soil treatment

We turn to the description of more or less serious cleaning systems that allow you not to worry about environmental pollution.

This type of septic tank is a single tank, divided into 2 - 3 sections or several separate tanks-wells connected by pipes. Most often, having decided to equip just this type of sewage system, a factory-made septic tank is purchased.

In the first tank, wastewater settles, as in the previous method (settlement well). Through the pipe, partially clarified water enters the second tank or section, where anaerobic bacteria decompose organic residues. Even more clarified water enters the filtration fields.

Filtration fields are an area underground where wastewater is treated by soil. Thanks to large area(about 30 m2), the water is purified by 80%. The ideal case is if the soil is sandy or sandy, otherwise it will be necessary to equip an artificial filtration field of crushed stone and sand. After passing through the filtration fields, water is collected in pipelines and discharged into drainage ditches or wells. Trees or edible vegetables cannot be planted above the filtration fields, only a flower bed is allowed.

Over time, the fields silt up, and they need to be cleaned, or rather, crushed stone and sand should be replaced. You can imagine how much work will have to be done, and what your site will turn into after that.

Conclusion. Laying a sewer in a private house, assuming the presence of a filtration field, is possible only if the groundwater level is below 2.5 - 3 m. Otherwise, it is quite constructive solution subject to sufficient free space. Also, do not forget that the distance from the filtration fields to water sources and residential buildings should be more than 30 m.

Septic tank with biofilter - natural treatment station

The deep cleaning station allows you to complete the installation of sewage in a private house, even if the groundwater level is very high.

The septic tank is a container divided into 3 - 4 sections. It is better to purchase it from a trusted manufacturer, after consulting with professionals about the required volume and equipment. Of course, the price for such a sewer in a private house is not the lowest, it starts from 1200 USD.

In the first chamber of the septic tank, water is settled, in the second - the decomposition of organic matter by anaerobic microorganisms, the third chamber serves to separate water, since in the fourth chamber organic matter is decomposed with the help of aerobic bacteria, which need a constant supply of air. To do this, a pipe is mounted above the chamber, which rises 50 cm above the ground level. Aerobic bacteria are planted on a filter installed on a pipe leading from the third section to the fourth. In fact, this is the filtering field - only in miniature and concentrated. Due to the small area of ​​water movement and the high concentration of microorganisms, there is a thorough purification of water up to 90 - 95%. Such water can be safely used for technical needs - watering the garden, washing the car and much more. To do this, a pipe is diverted to their fourth section, leading either to a tank for accumulating treated water, or to a drainage ditch or well, where it simply soaks into the ground.

Sewage treatment in a private house - scheme of work:

Conclusion. Septic tank with biofilter - good decision for a private house with permanent residence. Microorganisms can be added to the septic tank by simply pouring them into the toilet. There are no restrictions on the use of such treatment plant no. An undeniable advantage is that it does not require electricity. The only drawback is that sewerage wiring in a private house requires permanent residence, since without the constant presence of sewage, bacteria die. When new strains are introduced, they begin active activity only after two weeks.

Septic tank with forced air supply - artificial cleaning station

An accelerated cleaning station where natural processes occur artificially. The construction of a sewerage system in a private house using an aeration tank will require electricity to be connected to the septic tank to connect the air pump and air distributor.

Such a septic tank consists of three chambers or separate containers interconnected. Water enters the first chamber through sewer pipes, where it settles, and solid waste precipitates. Partially clarified water from the first chamber is pumped into the second.

The second chamber is actually the aeration tank, here water is mixed with activated sludge, which consists of microorganisms and plants. All microorganisms and bacteria of activated sludge are aerobic. It is for their full-fledged life that forced aeration is needed.

Water mixed with sludge enters the third chamber - a sump for deeper cleaning. Then the sludge is pumped back to the aeration tank by a special pump.

Forced air supply provides a fairly quick wastewater treatment, which can then be used for technical needs.

Conclusion. Aerotank is an expensive, but necessary pleasure in some cases. The price starts from 3700 USD. There are no restrictions on the installation of such a sewer. Disadvantages - the need for electricity and permanent residence, otherwise activated sludge bacteria die.

Water supply and sewerage of a private house - general rules

Certain restrictions apply to the location of sewer facilities.

septic tank should be located:

• no closer than 5 m from a residential building;
• no closer than 20 - 50 m from the water source (well, well, reservoir);
• no closer than 10 m from the garden.

House must be removed:

• 8 m from filter wells;
• 25 m from the filter fields;
• 50 m from aeration treatment plants;
• 300 m from drain wells or stations.

The pipes leading to the septic tank must be insulated so that they do not freeze through in winter. To do this, they are wrapped with heat-insulating material and inserted into asbestos-cement pipes. External sewerage wiring in a private house is carried out with pipes with a diameter of 100 - 110 mm, the slope should be 2 cm by 2 m, i.e. 2 °, in practice they do a little more - 5 - 7 ° (with a margin). But you shouldn’t joke with this matter, since a larger slope will lead to the fact that water will quickly pass through the pipes, and feces will linger and clog them, and a smaller angle of inclination will not ensure that wastewater moves through the pipes at all. It is advisable to lay the pipes in such a way that there are no turns and corners. For internal wiring of sewer pipes, 50 mm in diameter is sufficient. If the house has more than one floor, and bathtubs, sinks, and a toilet are also installed on the upper floors, then a riser with a diameter of 200 mm is used to drain wastewater down.

If you decide that you can handle the sewerage of a private house with your own hands, be sure to take into account all the restrictions of SanPin and SNiP regarding the location and design of the sewerage system. In order not to spoil relations with neighbors, consider the location of their water sources and other buildings.

The sewerage project of a private house is extremely important; you should not try to do without it. Sewerage is not a system that tolerates approximation. Contact design bureaus or architects, let the professionals create a working draft for you, taking into account all the features of the soil, site, climate and operating conditions. It is better if this project is completed along with the project of the house itself before the start of its construction. This will greatly facilitate installation.

If you are interested in the question of how to make a sewer in a private house at high level ground water, then based on all of the above, it can be such options:

• Sealed container for accumulation of waste.
• Septic tank with biofilter.
• Aeration cleaning station (aerotank).

Direct work on the installation of a sewer system in a private house is not so complicated. It is necessary to lay pipes around the house that will collect drains from various sources, connect them to a collector and run through the foundation or under it along the ground to the septic tank. Earthworks can be done independently, or you can hire an excavator. But choosing the right sewerage system and drafting a project is much more important.

Sewerage in a private house: video - example

Do-it-yourself sewer well - rules and methods of device If you are building new house or decided to improve the old one, one of the main tasks will be the installation of communications that provide comfortable accommodation. Since it is impossible without a properly designed drainage system, the question will arise - how to make a sewer well with your own hands. If you want to save money and do not plan to involve a contractor in this work, then before starting it, you should study all the norms and rules for sewerage for a private house. They are contained in SNiPs, which are quite difficult for people who are not related to the construction business to understand, so we suggest that you just read this article carefully. Rules for the construction of sewer wells Before you start doing something, you need to decide on the place for the well, its volume and depth. To do this, you need to draw at least a primitive sewerage scheme from the exit from the house to the well, which will also help you calculate required amount required materials. Sanitary requirements When choosing a place for a sewer septic tank or a cesspool, the location of the water intake points should first be taken into account. And not only on their site, but also on neighboring ones. If contaminated sewage seeps into the aquifer and from there into the well, it can cause serious illness. The type of soil also matters - how permeable it is. The instruction requires compliance following distances between sewer and water wells: With sandy soils - at least 50 meters; With clay - at least 20 meters. Having determined the places on your site that meet these requirements, you can decide which one is more convenient to locate the structure, taking into account the distance to the house and the position of the outlet point of the internal sewer system. Technical requirements The first thing you should know is that you can not place the structure closer than three meters from the foundation of the house. The ideal distance is 8-12 meters in a straight line. But it is not always possible to withstand it: the layout and topography of the site may not allow this. In such cases, when building a sewer well with your own hands, you must follow the following rules: If the length of the sewer pipeline is very large, it must be installed manholes. The first - at a distance of 3 to 12 meters from the outlet from the house, the next - every 15 meters. They are necessary to control the operation of the system and facilitate its cleaning if necessary. If the pipeline has turns or is connected to one common line of two or more outlets, a rotary well is installed at such nodes. It is also used as a lookout. If the terrain does not allow laying a pipe with minimal slope, a differential well is being built, which makes it possible to ensure an acceptable speed of movement of effluents. It is important! It should be explained why the speed at which sewage flows through pipes is so important. If it is very small, a plug may occur in the pipe, which will clog the lumen. If it is too large, then the liquid will drain quickly, not having time to entrain solid fractions with it, which again will lead to the formation of congestion. Water flows into the sewer well by gravity, which is provided by the slope of the pipe. With a diameter of 100 mm, it should be 2 cm for each running meter, if the diameter is 50 mm, the slope is one and a half times more - 3 cm per linear meter. That is, the farther the well is located from the outlet, the deeper it should be, since the entrance to it will be lower. By drawing a sewerage scheme on a scale with the correct slope of the pipeline, you will receive this mark, after which you can calculate the depth and volume of the container. For reference. The volume is calculated based on the number of people living in the house, each of whom has about 150 liters of waste per day, the type of well and the frequency of its emptying. Types of drain wells It can be accumulative or filtering. In any case, it is a working container with a closed hatch, the difference lies in the bottom device. So: Accumulative is designed to collect sewage, which, as it is filled, is pumped out by a sewage machine (ilosom) and taken out. It must be completely sealed. In the filtering liquid seeps into the lower layers of the soil, where it is gradually cleared, passing through its layers, so it is made without a bottom and is installed on a filtering layer of gravel, broken brick or crushed stone. It has to be pumped out less often. Attention! At a high level of groundwater, the device of a filtering well without preliminary treatment of wastewater is unacceptable. There is also a more advanced design of sewer wells - a septic tank, in which stepwise wastewater treatment takes place, but it must be designed and installed by specialists. How to build a sewer well yourself Many private developers decide to deal with the sewerage device on their own, since this is not the most difficult thing, and the cost savings are decent. Stages of work Since the average depth is 4-6 meters, it is better to dig a pit under it with an excavator to reduce labor costs and save time. The diameter of the pit should be larger outside diameter a well (or its linear dimensions with a rectangular or square shape) by at least 30-40 cm. If you decide to make a storage tank from reinforced concrete rings, rubble stone or brick, the sequence of work is as follows: Digging a trench for the pipeline and digging a foundation pit; Preparation of the base by backfilling a layer of crushed stone at the bottom and ramming it; Filling the bottom with concrete; For reference. You can do it easier and lay a finished reinforced concrete slab on the bottom of the pit. Installing rings or laying brick walls. The seams between the rings are sealed with cement mortar, brick walls are also plastered with it; Inlet device for inserting a drain pipe. After its installation, the injection site is also carefully sealed; Note. The inlet pipe should protrude 5-8 cm into the well. Insulation of the outer walls with tar or a layer of greasy clay; Backfilling of soil with its compaction; Laying a floor slab with a hatch; Installation of a ventilation pipe to prevent the accumulation of explosive gases in the well, which are released during the decomposition of organic matter. It should rise at least 60-70 cm above ground level. A filter well is built in the same way, with the only difference that the bottom under it is not completely filled, but only under the walls so that they do not rest on the ground, but on concrete base. In addition, drainage holes are punched in the lower part of the first ring, and a backfill of rubble is made outside. In the case of brick construction, holes are left immediately in the lower rows of masonry. Plastic wells It is much easier to use ready-made containers made of durable and frost-resistant plastic. Perhaps the price of the products themselves will be higher than the cost of reinforced concrete rings, but you can save time and effort, as well as money, without calling a manipulator to install heavy and bulky structures in the pit. Plastic wells are lightweight and you can handle it yourself. They are produced in different volumes and diameters, with ready-made inlets for pipes, so you will not have any difficulties with their selection and installation. In addition to low weight and ease of installation, plastic wells have the following advantages: Absolute tightness, which will allow you not to engage in insulation work and not worry about possible leaks; Resistant to both very low and high temperatures; Resistance to aggressive environments; High strength and, as a result, durability. They will not require any repairs throughout the entire period of operation. Finishing work The finished well is completely covered with earth to prevent freezing. Only the hatch remains open. There should always be free access to it, and there should be access roads for silosos nearby. It remains only to think how to enter this necessary for comfortable life, but not a very attractive element in the landscape of the site, especially if it is located in an open place. Make it simple. Now on sale there are special decorative covers for well hatches in the form of a large boulder or a removable flower bed. Can be arranged around the hatch alpine slide or install a lightweight wood or wire frame for climbing plants. There are many options, it is enough to turn on the fantasy. Conclusion From all that has been said, we can draw an unambiguous conclusion: our comfort is in our hands, and if desired, it can be achieved without spending extra money and physical strength. If we talk specifically about the device of individual sewerage on the site, then the easiest way is to assemble it from finished products – plastic pipes, connecting elements and different kind wells.

Many owners of private houses have to wonder: how to make a sewer well? Of course, it is always better to turn to professionals who are familiar with the installation technology and will be able to cope with the task. But if you don't have the funds to hire professionals, or if you want to save money on installation, then it's worth taking a closer look at this process and considering the individual steps.

To carry out the arrangement of the sewer well, you will need a number of materials:

1. Rubble.
2. Reinforced concrete rings.
3. Pipes for sewerage.

After preparing the materials, you need to understand how to properly make a sewer well and where it is best to place it.

Performing a sewer well with your own hands, carefully approach the choice of a place to place it. It should be installed at some distance from the house in order to exclude the possibility of flooding with foundation drains. If there is a well for water intake on the site, then the distance between them must be at least thirty meters.

Other important parameters for choosing a place:

1. The well should be installed so that a vacuum truck can freely drive up to it for cleaning. Otherwise, you will experience constant problems with pumping wastewater.
2. How to properly install a sewer well relative to the house and choose a place? Consider the location of the sewer pipe leaving the building. There should be no angles greater than 120 degrees between it and the well, or serious connection problems will arise.
3. Near the structure, it is not necessary to carry out landings and place other structures.

When making a sewer well with your own hands, you should pay attention to its tightness. According to the norms, it should not let water through, but this entails additional problems and will have to be cleaned more often. Therefore, most owners perform a filtering bottom that removes sewage.

You choose the size yourself, depending on the number of discharged drains. Many are interested in how to make a sewer well in a private house for 3 - 4 people and what depth to choose? Optimal solution for such a family - about 4 reinforced concrete rings, the larger the size, the less often it will be necessary to clean.

Construction

Now we will tell you how to build a sewer well. After choosing a location and depth, it would be nice to perform a simple scheme. It indicates the location of the house, the sewer pipe and the well, the dimensions of the future structure.

It is recommended to purchase reinforced concrete rings in advance, measure their diameter, height of each element. These parameters add up the dimensions of the required pit. It needs to be a little wider and deeper than the rings in order to install without problems. Additionally, it is necessary to provide a trench for supplying a sewer pipe.

Pit preparation

Manual mining with shovels is enough difficult option that takes a lot of time and effort. If you need to complete a structure with great depth, then only the first stage may take several days.

Another way to make a sewer well with your own hands is to attract specialized equipment, including an excavator. He will quickly cope with the task, significantly save time in the construction process.

After preparing the pit, you can proceed to the next steps.

How to install a sewer well?

For filtering structures, it is necessary to fill the bottom with crushed stone, its layer must be at least 40 centimeters. If the structure is completely sealed, then a reinforced concrete slab or concrete mortar for filling.

In practice, you can make a sewer well with your own hands from various materials, including:

1. reinforced concrete rings.
2. Brick.
3. wooden elements.
4. plastic structures.

Brick laying takes a sufficient amount of time, and wooden structures damage faster in high humidity. Plastic can be used, but it must be handled carefully so as not to damage the elements during installation. Therefore, it is best to use reinforced concrete, it is the most reliable and durable material today.

How to arrange a sewer well from reinforced concrete? Rings are installed on a prepared base. These structures are extremely heavy and may require a small crane or manipulator for installation. The joints should be smeared with sealants - they will exclude the flow of effluents into the soil.

1. Initially, pipes from the house are brought to the well. They are connected to each other, you will need a special machine for metal welding.
2. A hole of the required diameter is punched in one of the rings, depending on the dimensions of the pipes.
3. Direct installation is carried out with the supply of the sewerage system to the structure. The junction with concrete should be well lubricated with sealant, it eliminates leaks.

After installation, you can fill up the trench with the pipe. An additional floor is installed directly on the structure. The cavities around are sprinkled with soil, the soil is carefully laid on the floor, a small free hole remains.

Cover installation

A cover is installed on top. It should be waterproofed so that rain and melt water do not get inside. It is not recommended to fill the cover with soil, it must be freely accessible and provide an outlet for accumulating gases.

Good ventilation is extremely important during further operation. Disintegration takes place inside organic matter, methane and hydrogen sulfide are released. They must be brought to the surface, a large accumulation of methane poses a potential threat to the structure.

Now you know how to install a sewer well. Drawing conclusions, we can distinguish several main stages of construction:

1. Preparatory work, choice of location and size, purchase of materials.
2. Preparation of a pit and a trench for a pipe supply.
3. Foundation laying.
4. Ring installation.
5. Sewer connection.
6. Installation of overlapping with a cover and backfilling with soil.

How to make a cover?

Best to buy standard version cast iron along with other elements. Making a sewer well cover with your own hands will require a lot of time and effort; Additional materials and tools.

But if the standard cover was destroyed during operation and it needs to be replaced, then you can make it yourself from the available materials. The simplest solution is to make it out of wood. You will need to pick up strong and high-quality boards, cut them to the required size, and connect them together. attach round shape it is better after assembly, to trim with electric saws and jigsaws. Wood is recommended to be processed protective compounds then it will serve you for a longer time.

You can make a concrete cover. To do this, you need to choose a round shape, lay wires in the form of reinforcement on its bottom, it will significantly increase the strength of the structure. The prepared solution is poured from above, aged until completely dry and cured. The lid is carefully removed from the mold, it can be laid on the well.

Today, few people will agree to live in a house that does not provide basic amenities. Therefore, when building a private house, cottage or cottage, you need to take care of the local sewage system.

And in order not to break out of the budget, it is worth building a sewer well with your own hands.

Where to begin?

Of course, before starting construction, it is necessary to draw up a detailed one. Only under this condition can you avoid mistakes and not do the same work several times.

At the initial stage of planning, the following activities are carried out:

• It is necessary to determine the location of the well for draining. It is better if it is a platform that is below the level of the house.
• Now you need to determine the point where the walking pod will leave the house.
• This is followed by the stage of drawing up a diagram on a scale with the designation of pipe sizes. In this case, you need to calculate the number of connections. The quality of the system depends on how accurate the measurements will be. In addition, at this stage it becomes clear what materials and in what quantities must be purchased.

Types of wells for sewer systems

Before you figure out how to make a sewer well, you need to find out what types of these structures will need to be included in the scheme.

The system may include wells of the following types:

• differential;
• Lookout;
• Turning;
• Cumulative;
• Filtration.

It often happens that one structure is built to simultaneously perform several functions.

As a rule, it consists of a working chamber and a neck covered with a hatch. What are the design features of certain types of these structures?

If the sewer pipeline is long enough, then you can not do without the equipment of manholes. Their functions are to ensure monitoring of the system and ease of cleaning in case of blockage.

Advice! According to the rules, the distance from the outlet of the sewer from the house to the first manhole should not exceed 12 meters. But closer than three meters from the foundation, it should not be placed. Subsequent manholes are placed at a distance of 15 meters from each other.

A rotary well is installed if it is impossible to ensure a straight pipeline. At the place where the pipe turns, a well is installed that can simultaneously be used as a viewing well.

Overflow well device for local sewerage system

A drop well is necessary if, due to the natural topography of the site, it is impossible to produce with the required angle of inclination.

As a rule, the scheme of a sewer differential well differs from the usual one by the presence of a descent.

However, if the difference in the height of the pipes in such a well is less than 400 meters, then you can do without installing this additional part. The descent for the overflow well can be assembled independently.

It consists of a straight cross, pipe and elbow. If carried out, then the knee should be at 45 degrees, when applied cast iron pipes the required angle is 135 degrees. The descent is attached to the wall of the well with clamps.

Advice! The presence of a cross at the top of the descent is prerequisite, as otherwise it will be very difficult to clean in the event of a blockage.

Drain well device

The drain well serves as a reservoir for the accumulation and primary treatment of wastewater. When choosing a place for its placement, it is imperative to adhere to sanitary rules, according to which the drain well is located at a distance of at least five meters from the foundation of the house.

As a rule, the sewer well scheme is a round or square tank, the bottom of which is filled with concrete.

It is extremely important to ensure that the bottom and walls of the tank are as tight as possible to prevent the penetration of raw sewage into the soil.

The simplest drain wells must be periodically cleaned of contents using a sewage machine. More advanced systems based on staged water purification (septic tanks) require cleaning much less frequently.

Sewer wells, as a rule, are made of brick, shoulder stone, concrete or reinforced concrete. In the latter case, it is convenient to use ready-made well rings.

Internal surfaces brick well plastered with cement, and the bottom is covered with concrete. Outside, the well is insulated with a thick layer of greasy clay. The well cover is made of reinforced concrete. In extreme cases, you can use tarred wood shields covered with roofing paper.

Very often, the owners wonder how to sewer with reinforced concrete wells? Indeed, the use of ready-made well rings made of reinforced concrete significantly speeds up the construction process.

To build such a well, you first need to prepare the foundation. To do this, first a “cushion” is made of well-packed rubble, which is then poured with a solution.

Rings are installed on the finished base, depending on the depth of the well, from 3 to 5 pieces are required. To install the rings, it will be necessary to involve equipment, as they are quite heavy. To achieve tightness, the seams between the individual rings are coated with a solution.

Finished plastic wells

by the most simple option well arrangement is the installation of a finished plastic blank. Such wells were not previously used in Russia, since plastic could not withstand severe frosts. But with the invention of new types of plastic, this problem has been solved.

When choosing this option, the scheme of sewer wells will be extremely simple. Plastic tanks are available in different diameters and with ready-made holes for pipes.

The device of plastic wells is no different from the usual reinforced concrete ones. But installing them is much easier, since they have less weight and ready-made holes for pipes. While in reinforced concrete rings, these holes have to be punched with a special tool or manually.

Plastic wells have the following advantages:

• Tightness. This circumstance provides environmental safety the use of such products;
• Strength and resistance to aggressive environments;
• Ability to withstand temperatures from plus 70 to minus 50;
• Ease of installation and assembly.

Filter well device

last element autonomous system sewer is a filter well. It receives water that has passed preliminary degrees of purification in the first chambers of the septic tank.

When planning to build a filtering sewer well for a summer residence, you need to know that its device is similar to a storage device, but has its own characteristics.

So, when constructing the base of the well, concrete is not laid in a continuous layer, but along the perimeter of the shaft, leaving the soil in the center of the future well free. Thus, the edge of the lower ring of the well will rest on a concrete base, and the bottom of the well will not prevent water from penetrating down.

For additional filtration, drainage holes are made in the lower compartment of the well, placing them at a distance of 50-100 mm from each other. During the construction of such a well made of bricks, gaps are left during masonry.

At the bottom of the well, a meter layer is covered with filter material - crushed stone, gravel, broken bricks. The same backfill is made outside along the perimeter at the bottom of the well. The inlet pipe is located at a height of 500 mm from the upper edge of the backfill, which is covered with a water-breaking board so that the falling jet does not erode the layer of filter material.

Advice! It is not necessary to cut the inlet pipe flush, otherwise the incoming water will flow along the wall, which will wash out the backfill. It is better to make this pipe protruding 50-80 mm into the well.

How to disguise a sewer well?

Of course, a sewer well for a summer residence is a necessary thing. However, it does not decorate the site in any way, especially since the place for its location is chosen not for reasons of beauty, but in accordance with building and sanitary standards.

As a result, it may turn out that the well will be in the most inappropriate place in the garden. However, it is not difficult to find a way out here - you just need to decorate the well, turning a disadvantage into a virtue.

The only condition is that when coming up with ways to decorate, you need to take into account that access to the well must be provided at any time. For the rest, you can rely on your imagination.

You can "cover" the well with ornamental shrubs, you can make a removable flower bed or install a light collapsible wire frame on top of the well, plant around climbing plants. You can put an artificial boulder on top of the hatch, since it is hollow inside, it will not be difficult to move it to another place if necessary.