Growing wild rose seeds. Rosehip diseases and their treatment Powdery mildew disease: where does it come from

Despite the fact that the melon is a "purebred southerner", summer residents grow it not only in the south. And all because this culture is exceptionally tasty and very healthy. And varieties “for the market” do not always have high taste qualities, not like fruits from their own garden or greenhouse. True, the melon has its own "secrets", but they are not particularly difficult. Therefore, if you have not yet grown a melon on your hundred square meters, you must definitely try it, at least once!

Salad "Red Sea" with squid, crab sticks and red caviar - a light and healthy snack that is suitable for a pescatarian menu, it can also be prepared on fasting days when fish and seafood are allowed on the menu. The salad is simply extremely tasty and it is prepared easily. Buy frozen squids. I do not advise you to cook a dish with giant squid fillet, although it looks appetizing and tempting, it has a sharp ammonia flavor that is difficult to get rid of.

Columnar trees differ from ordinary fruit trees in their compact crown, small height, and lack of lateral branching. With a slight habitus, these miracle trees are distinguished by their ability to form large crops of large, tasty and beautiful fruits. On 1-2 acres, up to 20-25 columnar trees can be placed - varieties of apple trees, pears, plums, peaches, cherries, apricots and other crops of different maturity. Our article will tell about the features of creating a columnar garden.

August can be a little sad - autumn, followed by a long winter, is already on the threshold. But the flower beds are still full of multicolor, and their colors create an atmosphere of warmth and joy. The rich palette of August flower beds mainly consists of yellows, oranges, and crimson tones. And it seems as if the garden has become warmer and the color of the sun has increased. What flowers should definitely be planted in flower beds so that they brighten up the inevitable departure of summer with flowering?

Peach jam with bananas is fragrant, thick, healthy and, most importantly, it has half as much sugar as ordinary jam. This is a quick jam with pectin, and pectin powder is known to reduce the sugar content in jam, or even make it without sugar. Sugar-free jams are fashionable sweets nowadays, they are very popular among supporters healthy lifestyle life. Peaches for harvesting can be of any degree of maturity, bananas too.

Coriander is one of the most popular spices in the world, and its greens are called cilantro or cilantro. Interestingly, cilantro leaves no one indifferent. Some people adore it and are happy to use it in any salads and sandwiches, and they love Borodino bread for the special flavor of coriander seeds. Others, referring to the smell that evokes associations with forest bugs, hate coriander and flatly refuse to approach bunches of cilantro even in the market, let alone plant it in their garden.

Saintpaulias are making a comeback and redefining the cute blooming violets that love to live on any windowsill. Trends in the "market" for uzambara violets indicate a rapid increase in interest in plants with unusual leaves. More and more admiring glances are attracted not by unusual colors of flowers, but by exotic variegated colors of leaves. Variegated saintpaulias are almost no different in cultivation from all the others.

Sweet and sour pickled cherry tomatoes with red onion and basil marinated with balsamic vinegar and mustard. Such pickled vegetables will decorate any festive table They are very tasty and fragrant. Marinade filling is a completely different story: it turns out a delicious brine, the only drawback of which is not a large number of. Onions choose sweet, red. Cherry - strong, slightly unripe, the smallest. Fresh basil is suitable for both green and purple.

My first acquaintance with hydrogel took place a very long time ago. Back in the nineties, my husband brought funny multi-colored balls from Japan, which greatly increased in size if they were filled with water. They were supposed to put bouquets or use them for some other decorative purposes. Of course, at first it was funny, but then I played enough and abandoned them, I don’t even remember where they went. But I recently returned to the use of hydrogel. I will share my experience in this article.

Watermelon and summer are inseparable concepts. However, not in every area you will find melons. And all because this African plant takes up a lot of space, is quite demanding on both heat and the sun, and also on competent watering. But still, watermelon is so loved that today not only southerners have learned to grow it, but much more northern summer residents. It turns out that you can find an approach to such a capricious plant, and if you want, you can get a decent harvest.

You can cook red gooseberry jam in 10 minutes. However, it should be borne in mind that this is the time required for cooking jam without preparing berries. It takes a lot of time to harvest and prepare berries for processing. Cruel thorns discourage any desire to harvest, but you still have to cut off your noses and tails. But the result is worth it, the jam turns out to be excellent, one of the most fragrant, in my opinion, and the taste is such that it is impossible to tear yourself away from the jar.

Monsters, anthuriums, caladiums, dieffenbachia ... Representatives of the Aroid family are considered one of the most popular categories indoor plants. And not the last factor of their wide distribution is diversity. Aroid presented aquatic plants, epiphytes, semi-epiphytes, tuberous and lianas. But despite such a diversity, because of which it is sometimes difficult to guess the relationship of plants, aroids are very similar to each other and require the same care.

Salad "Donskoy" for the winter - savory snack from fresh vegetables in a sweet and sour marinade with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. V original recipe regular or apple cider vinegar, but with a combination of wine vinegar and light Balsamico, it turns out much tastier. Salad can be prepared without sterilization - bring the vegetables to a boil, put them in sterile jars and wrap them warmly. You can also pasteurize blanks at a temperature of 85 degrees, then cool quickly.

The main collected mushrooms: porcini, boletus, boletus, chanterelles, boletus, mossiness mushrooms, russula, milk mushrooms, volnushki, saffron mushrooms, honey mushrooms. Other mushrooms are collected depending on the region. And their name (other mushrooms) is legion. As well as mushroom pickers, which are becoming more and more every year. Therefore, there may not be enough for all known mushrooms. And I know for sure that among the little-known come across very worthy representatives. About little-known, but tasty and useful mushrooms I will tell you in this article.

The word "ampel" comes from the German word "ampel", meaning a hanging container for flowers. Fashion for hanging flower beds came to us from Europe. And today it is very difficult to imagine a garden where at least one hanging basket was not found. In response to the growing popularity of container floriculture, a large number of ampelous plants have appeared on sale, whose shoots easily fall outside the pots. Let's talk about those that are valued for their beautiful flowers.

Rosehip propagates by seeds and rhizomes. Grows well on rich, light-textured soils. Soils suitable for laying fruit and berry crops are quite suitable for growing wild rose. The plots are allotted with good moisture supply. When planting, the root shoots are harvested in the wild rose bushes. Planted under a shovel to a depth of 10-15 cm. The distance between the bushes is 0.75-1 m.

The best time to plant seeds is September .

Rosehip seeds require long-term stratification (from eight months to one year). They are mixed with moistened, coarse-grained, washed sand. During the stratification period, humidity and temperature are monitored. Such seeds are stored in cellars with a temperature not higher than 5-7 °. Sow in September.

For planting, it is better to use two-year-old seedlings. After planting, they must be cut to one third of the length. The next year, in the spring, basal shoots are cut by 60-100 cm for better branching. periodically (as individual branches dry out), rosehip bushes should be rejuvenated. Skeletal branches older than six years old should be cut and replaced with a basal shoot.

Pests and diseases of wild rose

spider mite . More often it affects wild rose plants in hot and dry years. It settles on the underside of the leaves under the cobweb.

Control measures: Karbofos (20 g per 10 l of water) with ethersulfonate (30 g per 10 l of water). Leaves are treated every ten days until the tick is completely destroyed.

Rose aphid. It settles on young shoots. The leaves are covered with sticky secretions. In the future, they twist, the shoots are bent, the flowers are ugly.

Control measures: Before the buds swell, sprinkle with nitrafen (300 g) or green oil concentrate (600 g per 10 l of water), and at the beginning of the leaves bloom - karbofos (30 g), tobacco decoction (400 g of tobacco and 40 g of soap per 10 l of water), infusion of onion scales (200 g and 40 g of soap per 10 liters of water).

Powdery mildew. It affects the leaves, fruits and shoots of wild rose. After bud break, a powdery-whitish coating appears on the leaves. Affected leaves curl and fall prematurely, shoots become twisted and stunted. The yield of fruits and the content of vitamins in them are reduced.

Control measures: Collection and destruction of diseased leaves, pruning and burning of affected shoots. Spraying every 10-12 days with a soapy emulsion with copper sulfate (5 g of copper sulfate and 200 g of soap per 10 liters of water), colloidal sulfur (100 g per 10 liters of water) and dusting with ground sulfur.

Rust . Causes premature shedding of leaves and drying of shoots. Sometimes the entire plant dies. In spring, orange-yellow pads appear on the underside of the leaves (accumulation of spores of the fungus), later the pads become almost black. The spread of the disease is facilitated by abundant dew and rainy weather.

Control measures: Collection and burning of dry and affected leaves. Cutting and burning diseased shoots In early spring, before the buds swell, you need to sprinkle with a 3% emulsion of nitrafen before flowering and after it - with 1% Bordeaux liquid (100 g of copper sulfate and 200 g of fluffy lime) or copper oxychloride (30 g per 10 l of water).

Collection of rose hips

Rose hips are harvested as they ripen, when they turn orange-red or red. There are fewer vitamins in unripe and overripe fruits.

Fresh fruits are stored in a layer of 4-5 cm on racks for a short time at a temperature of plus 1-10 °. Water infusion, decoction, kvass, jam, juices, etc. are obtained from fresh or dried fruits.

Drying. You can dry the fruits under a canopy, in the sun, on a stove, in an oven. When drying in the oven or on the stove for the first 1-2 hours every 20-30 minutes, they must be inspected so that they do not burn, otherwise vitamin C is lost. Under-dried fruits crumple in the hand, overdried crumble into powder when crushed, burnt ones become almost black. Properly dried fruits are bright red, orange or brown-red.

Water infusion. They take a tablespoon (20 g) of dry fruits and pour two glasses of boiling water, boil over low heat in an enameled bowl for 10 minutes, then close the lid and insist 22-24, and crushed - 2-3 hours. After that, the broth is filtered and drunk half a cup a day. Rosehip infusion should be stored in a dark sealed container, as vitamin C is better preserved this way.

For long-term storage, 0.05-0.1% hydrochloric or citric acid. Acidification has a good effect on the stability of vitamin C, speeds up the infusion process and gives a pleasant taste.

Vitamin tea. One tablespoon (20 g) dried whole fruits, sepals and stalks removed, pour cold water(1 l) and boil in an enamel or porcelain bowl for 5-10 minutes. Pour into a glass through a strainer or gauze.

Rosehip petals are sometimes used for a tea drink, which give the drink a pleasant taste and aroma.

Tea from rose hips and blackcurrant berries. Take 20 g of seeds (1:1), pour two glasses of boiling water, insist for an hour, filter, add sugar, drink half a glass 3-4 times a day.

Rosehip tea with raisins. Wash the raisins, finely chop, pour 10:100 ml of boiling water, boil for 10 minutes, squeeze, filter, add the same amount of rosehip infusion, drink half a glass several times a day.

For increase A-vitamin value apple and berry compotes use dried or fresh rose hips, removing the stalk and calyx. To get rid of prickly hairs inside the fruit, fresh berries are cut and cleaned of seeds and hairs. Dried fruits are pre-steamed for 2 hours, rubbed through a sieve and mashed together with a decoction rich in vitamins C and A, used to pour compote without boiling.

Juice and jam from apple and rugosa roses are of great value. Seeds and hairs are removed from the fruits, boiled with sour berries.

Powdery mildew, white and black spots, and rust are common rose hip diseases. They cause significant damage to rosehip bushes.

• A white cobweb coating that appears on leaves and young shoots is a sign of powdery mildew.
• Bright orange pads are a sign of the appearance of rust, while leaves and shoots, buds and fruits are affected.

High humidity contributes to the appearance of spots in rose hips.

• The disease develops in the second half of the growing season.
• Spots form on rosehip leaves various colors: brown, black, whitish, purple.
• The disease persists on fallen leaves.

Rosehip pests

Rosehip plantations have a lot of pests that affect all of its above-ground as well as underground parts.

• Raspberry-strawberry weevil, which damages the buds, depriving the gardener of useful fruits.
• Bronze, leafworm caterpillars, ringed and gypsy moths that damage buds and leaves, disrupting plant growth and their decorative beauty.
• Spider mites and field and meadow bugs damage the leaves of young shoots, which for this reason cannot mature and freeze out in winter.
• The rose sawfly gnaws out the shoots from the inside, they are deformed and stunted.
• Larvae of May beetles, gray root cutworms, damaging the root system of rosehip plants.
• Rosan fly and wild rose fly, which damage the fruits.

Pest Control Measures

Preventive measures are taken against pests and diseases of wild rose.

• In the spring, dry and diseased branches are cut out, fallen leaves are collected and burned, and tree trunks are dug up.
• Against powdery mildew and other diseases, before bud break, the bushes are treated with a 5% solution of iron or a 3% solution of copper sulphate, solutions of nitrofen, topsin and fundozol can be used.
• With the appearance of leaf-eating, a solution of 0.2-0.3% karbofos is used.

All chemical treatments are completed a month before harvest.

At the beginning of the 21st century, non-traditional horticultural crops, one of which is rosehip, which has received its wide distribution not only as a medicine, but also as a food product.

Rosehip, or wild Rose(as it was popularly called) - perennial shrub of the Rose family (Rosaceae), genus Rosa (Rosa L), with a wide distribution area and the richest species diversity (over 90 species). Of all the species, cinnamon (R. cinnamomea L.), Daurian (R. davurica Pall), Fedchenko (R. Fedtschenkoana Rgl), apple (R. pomifera Herrm), and gray (R. glauca Pourr) are of practical interest. The value of rose hips was first noticed already in the 17th century. In the Moscow military hospital, to improve health, the wounded were given "svoroborin molasses" (svoroborin is an outdated name for the plant).

The main part of wild rose plantations in Russia is found in the wild flora, and most of the species diversity is characterized by low productivity. Huge areas of wild rose are located in the European part of Russia, in Western and Eastern Siberia, on Far East and Sakhalin. The All-Union Scientific Research Institute of Vitamins began serious work on the creation of new high-yielding varieties of wild rose in the 1940s. It was there that the Vorontsovsky, Russian, Vitaminny varieties were created, which are still widely used today. In 2008, 26 rosehip varieties were included in the state register of breeding achievements. Also, work on the creation of a new assortment has been carried out since 1994 at VNIIS im. I.V. Michurin, where promising varieties Tambovchanka, Hedgehog, Geisha, Yubileiny Michurinsk were created.

The great interest that has arisen in the rosehip culture is associated with the presence of vitamins in its fruits. Its advantage in comparison with other berries is the presence in the fruits of a significant amount of vitamin C (up to 4000 mg / 100 g). It should be noted that as the fruits ripen, the content of vitamin C in them increases. They also noted a significant content of vitamin P, K, B2, E. All this makes rose hips the most valuable plant in our garden.

Rosehip is one of the ancient folk remedies. Wide application found not only fruits, but also a decoction of the roots, which is used as a fixing agent for gastrointestinal diseases. A decoction of flower petals, fruits in folk medicine recommended for the treatment of scurvy. The pharmaceutical industry has launched a large number rosehip preparations with a wide spectrum of action. They are used in the treatment of gastritis, stomach ulcers, atherosclerosis, kidney disease and many others. In nature, wild rose grows in the form of a highly branched low or fairly tall shrub, up to 3.5 m high. Stems for the most part covered with spikes. Rosehip leaves unpaired-pinnate, alternate with herbaceous stipules. Flowers solitary. Petals vary in color from white to dark red. An adult rosehip bush has highly developed numerous stems, at the base of the bush root growth is visible in the form of shoots up to 1.5 m long. The fruits are diverse in shape: ovoid, pear-shaped, spindle-shaped, oval, spherical, with an average weight of 0.6 to 5.0 Rosehip blooms much later than other berry crops (mid-June), which is a positive factor, since the timing of flowering leaves the band of the most dangerous frosts.

Rosehip is a rather frost-resistant and unpretentious plant, so its cultivation is a simple matter. It yields up to 2.5 kg of fruit per bush, and 5 kg can be harvested from individual plants. When choosing varieties for growing in a garden plot, it is important to be guided by the recommendations of specialists. To date the best varieties Vitamin VNIVI, Jubilee, Crimson, Rumyany, Baikal are recognized. This list is constantly updated in connection with the creation of varieties with higher economically valuable indicators. Despite the rather wide distribution area, wild rose grows only in certain climatic conditions. For example, in the Central Black Earth zone, it is found quite often - in meadows, forests and fields. In small quantities, it can be found in suburban areas as a hedge.

Rosehip planting

The place for planting wild rose in the garden should be well lit. An important condition for obtaining high yields considered the composition of the soil. Plants grow well on dark chestnut, gray forest soils with deep fertile layer and acidity pH 5.5-6.5. At higher acidity, plant leaves are affected by chlorosis, i.e. spotting. However, chernozems are the most suitable. Rosehip grows poorly and bears fruit on swampy and saline soils.

After choosing a place for planting rose hips on the site, the question of soil preparation and planting schemes arises. Soil preparation is almost the same berry bushes. The only differences are that considerable attention is paid to deep digging and cleaning the soil from weeds. The best predecessors are plants that do not have common pests and diseases with wild rose (sea buckthorn, honeysuckle, etc.).

In suburban areas, the generally accepted planting pattern is 3x1.5 m. It is very convenient to use wild rose as a hedge. Rose hips can be planted both in spring and autumn, but during spring planting, the presence of planting material with unblown buds, i.e., is a prerequisite for planting. seedlings with leaves are not allowed for planting due to the very low survival rate of plants. Autumn planting is carried out after dropping the leaves.

Rose hips are planted with two-year-old seedlings in pre-dug planting pits 50x50x40 cm in size, seasoned with humus (8-10 kg), superphosphate (200 g) and wood ash (250 g per hole). Before planting, the roots of the seedlings are dipped in moist soil, placed in a planting hole and carefully tamped. After planting, the plants are pruned, leaving 1/3 of the above-ground part.

In the first years of life, rosehip care consists of watering and weeding weeds. Planted plants need fertilizers only in the third year after planting. Then ammonium nitrate is added (20-30 g per 1 m2 of soil). When entering into fruiting, mineral fertilizers are applied every 2-3 years (20 g of potassium salt and 50 g of superphosphate per bush). This agricultural practice contributes to a significant increase in productivity. Pruning is also included in the rosehip care activities. It is cut from the first year of life, expanding at the base of the bush. In the future, pruning of dry and diseased branches is carried out. To accelerate fruiting, pinching the tops of young shoots is carried out.

Pests and diseases of wild rose

Rosehip, like many agricultural plants, is susceptible to various diseases and suffers from the harm caused by various insects. The main harm to the wild rose is brought by rose flies, leafworms, spider mites and sawmills. Rose hips are also affected by quite numerous fungal diseases: rust, powdery mildew, gray and brown rot, etc.

Rosehip cleaning and recipes

On the garden plot, rose hips are harvested by hand. On average, 6-8 kg of fruit can be harvested in 8 hours. The first sign of fruit ripening is dark orange or red color and juicy pulp. In overripe fruits, the process of decay of vitamins is observed; in preparation for processing, they are smeared on the hands. The collected fruits are not subject to long-term storage, they must be dried or processed immediately.

Before drying, the fruits are sorted out, the damaged ones are removed. Dry them, scattering them in a thin layer in a ventilated dry room, but not in the sun. Even better, after airing for 2-3 days, dry them in the oven at a temperature of 70-90 ° C (with the door open). The fruits are periodically mixed, preventing them from burning. Dried fruits are used to make vitamin tea, for this they are poured with boiling water (1-1.5 tablespoons of fruits per glass of boiling water) and defended in a thermos.

In addition, for the preparation of vitamin teas, you can combine rosehips with blackcurrant, lingonberry and mountain ash berries. Big nutritional value have products of processing of rose hips (jam, compote, marmalade, etc.). They are distinguished by high taste and attractive appearance.

Jam. We sort out freshly harvested fruits, removing rubbish, cut in half, clearing seeds and hairs, rinse thoroughly in cold water. Before cooking, we lower the fruits for 2-3 minutes in boiling water, then in cold water. For 1 kg of fruit we take 800 g of sugar. To keep the slices intact, place them in an enamel bowl, pour hot syrup over and leave overnight. We cook the next day on low heat.

Compote. We clean the fruits, as well as for jam, blanch, put in jars and pour hot sugar syrup. For 1 liter of water 400 g of sugar. Before this, pasteurize the jars for 15 minutes in a water bath. Next, roll up the compote with metal lids.

Jam. Washed, peeled fruits are placed in an enamel bowl, pour a little water, bring to a boil and cook over low heat until softened. We wipe the softened fruits through a sieve. For 1 kg of mass, add 500 g of sugar and cook until thickened with constant stirring.

Rosehip breeding

On the garden plot, everyone can propagate rose hips in several ways (seeds, layering, green cuttings and layering).

Layers - are a good planting material. Layers are obtained both in spring and autumn. To do this, strong annual shoots are pinned to the soil in pits prepared in advance and filled with humus. To speed up the development of the root system, with opposite side cuts are made from the buds of the bark, the shoots are covered with soil by 10-12 cm. As the shoots grow, they are spudded.

Seed propagation - as in all cultures, does not give signs of the original variety, seedlings are of different quality. In addition, seed germination is very low. To ensure high germination, the seeds are stratified for three months at a temperature of 3-5°C in a humid environment before sowing.

Green cuttings are the most promising way to propagate wild rose. For a high survival rate of cuttings, the time of their harvesting is important. This period falls on the second decade of June - the end of June. Shoots are cut early in the morning, in cool time, then, avoiding drying, they are cut into cuttings 2-3 internodes long and planted in greenhouses or greenhouses. Planting pattern 5x10 cm with a planting depth of 4-5 cm. The optimum air temperature for rooting is 21 ... 23 ° С. The main condition for the survival of cuttings is to ensure abundant watering for the first 25-30 days. This is achieved by three-, six-time watering from 8 am to 8 pm. Under all these conditions, the rooting of cuttings reaches 98%.

Here are the most promising varieties of wild rose today:

Tambovchanka. Created in VNIIS them. I.V. Michurin. The bush is undersized, upright. Shoots of medium thickness with a weak anthocyanin coloration, medium thorn coverage. Spikes hook-shaped, reddish in color. The leaf is green in color, concave along the central vein. Flowers are large, red.

The fruits are large, orange-red, oval, slightly flattened. Average weight fruit 4.2 g. Fruit ripening in the third decade of August. Productivity 4.8 kg per bush. Repair grade. Winter hardiness is high. Medium resistance to diseases and pests. Hedgehog. Created in VNIIS them. I.V. Michurin. The bush is undersized, semi-erect. Shoots of medium thickness, without anthocyanin coloration, completely covered with thorns. Spines are needle-shaped, yellowish in color. The leaf is dark green in color, shiny, concave along the central vein. The flowers are large, dark crimson.

The fruits are large, red-orange, oval. The average fruit weight is 3.8 g. Fruit ripening in the third decade of August. Productivity 4 kg per bush. Repair grade. Winter hardiness is high. Medium resistance to diseases and pests.

Anniversary Michurinsk. Created in VNIIS them. I.V. Michurin. The bush is undersized, semi-erect. Shoots of medium thickness without anthocyanin coloration, medium thorn coverage. Spikes are hook-shaped, yellowish in color. The leaf is green in color, concave along the central vein. Flowers large, white. The fruits are large, orange-red, oval. The average fruit weight is 3.3 g. Fruit ripening in mid-August. Productivity 4.2 kg per bush. Remontant. Winter hardiness is high. Medium resistance to diseases and pests.

Geisha. Created in VNIIS them. I.V. Michurin. The bush is undersized, semi-erect. Shoots of medium thickness without anthocyanin coloration, medium thorn coverage. Spikes are hook-shaped, yellowish in color. The leaf is dark green in color, concave along the central vein. The flowers are large, dark crimson.

The fruits are large, orange-red, oval. The average fruit weight is 3 g. Fruit ripening in mid-August. Productivity 4.2 kg per bush. Remontant. Winter hardiness is high. Medium resistance to diseases and pests.

Shipless VNIVI. Created in VILAR. The bush is vigorous, medium sprawling. The branches are thin, curved, without pubescence, red-brown in autumn. The leaf is light green, concave along the central vein. Inflorescence of four large pink flowers.

Fruits are oval or spindle-shaped, orange-red in color. The average fruit weight is 2 g. Fruit ripening in the first half of August. Productivity 1.6 kg per bush. Quite resistant to diseases and pests.

Anniversary. Created in VILAR. The bush is undersized, with a dense spherical crown, has few root offspring. Shoots of medium thickness, curved, light brown, completely covered with thorns different lengths. The leaf is dark green, wrinkled, shiny, concave along the central vein. The flowers are large, bright dark crimson. Fruits are oval, orange-red, fleshy. The average fruit weight is 5 g. Fruit ripening in mid-August. Productivity 1.2 kg per bush. Resistance to diseases and pests is high.

Vitamin VNIVI. Created at the All-Russian Research Institute of Medicinal and Aromatic Plants. The bush is spreading, upright. There are no thorns in the fruiting zone. The fruits are large (up to 4 g), round-oval, orange-red in color. Productivity 2 kg per bush. Medium resistance to diseases and pests.

Dmitry Bryksin, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, Researcher at the Department of Berry Crops, VNIIS named after V.I. I.V. Michurina Evgenia Bryksina, competitor

Rosehip (lat. Rosea)- a genus of plants of the Rosaceae family, which has many cultural forms called Rosa. According to various sources, there are from 400 to 500 species of wild rose and up to 50,000 of its cultivars and hybrids. Herodotus, Theophrastus and Pliny wrote about the species diversity of the plant. In the Renaissance, the classification of rose hips was reduced to the division into wild and cultivated species according to the number of petals in flowers, but Carl Linnaeus already drew attention to the difficulties of classification due to the hybridization of roses. Today, no one can say for sure how many types of wild rose exist in nature. Rose hips are common in subtropical and temperate zones Northern Hemisphere, but sometimes its representatives are also found in areas with a tropical climate. Rose hips grow singly or in groups in coniferous undergrowth and on the edges of deciduous and mixed forests, in woodlands, along springs and rivers, in wet meadows, clay and rocky shores, on plains and at an altitude of up to 2200 m above sea level.

Planting and caring for wild rose (in brief)

• Bloom: in May-June from one to three weeks.
• Landing: best in October-November, but also possible in spring.
• Lighting: bright sunlight.
• The soil: fertile, well-drained, in areas with deep groundwater.
• Watering: the first year - frequent and plentiful, later - 3-4 times per season with a water consumption of 2-3 buckets for each bush.
• Top dressing: from the second year of life, nitrogen fertilizers are applied to the trunk circle: in early spring, June-July and September. In spring or autumn, 3-4 kg of humus or compost should be applied under each bush.
• Pruning: from the age of three in early spring, until the buds have blossomed, they carry out sanitary and formative pruning.
• Reproduction: seeds, root suckers.
• Pests: sawflies, aphids, leafhoppers (slobbering pennits), spider mites, leafworms, bronze beetles and deer beetles.
• Diseases: powdery mildew, black spot, rust, chlorosis and downy mildew.
• Properties: is an medicinal plant, the fruits of which are used as a tonic, tonic, increasing the body's resistance infectious diseases and an atherosclerosis-reducing agent.

Read more about growing rose hips below.

Rosehip bush - description

Rosehip - deciduous, and sometimes evergreen shrub with climbing, creeping or erect stems with a height (or length) from 15 cm to 10 m. Usually wild roses are multi-stemmed shrubs up to 2-3 m tall, surviving up to 30-50 years. The oldest rose grows in Germany: according to various estimates, its age is from 400 to 1000 years, the girth of its trunk is about 50 cm, and this plant is 13 m high.

The root system of wild roses is pivotal. The main rose hip root penetrates the ground to a depth of 5 m, but the bulk of the roots lie at least 40 cm within a radius of 60-80 cm from the bush. The branches of wild roses are erect and arcuate. They form numerous branched shoots: dark brown, dark red, purple-brown, brown-red, black-brown or gray with felt pubescence. Thorns on shoots and branches are scattered or in pairs. The younger the shoots, the softer and thinner the thorns on them. There are also thornless species, for example, wild rose hips. The thorns serve to protect the plant from being eaten by animals, as well as to hold the branches among other plants.

Long-petiolate, odd-pinnate rosehip leaves, reddish, bluish or green, arranged spirally on the shoots. Cultivated species of wild rose usually have five leaves, while wild ones have seven or nine. The shape of hard, leathery, smooth or wrinkled leaves can be round or elliptical, their base is rounded, heart-shaped or wedge-shaped. The edges of the leaflets are serrated, serrate-crenate or doubly serrated.

Rosehip flowers, bisexual, from 1.5 to 10 cm in diameter, solitary or collected in corymbs and panicles, have a pleasant aroma, although there are species with bad smell, for example, dogrose fetid. The corolla of the flower is five-petal, sometimes four-petal or semi-double, yellow, white, cream, pink or red. Flowering begins in May-June and lasts from one to three weeks.

Rose hips begin to bear fruit at the age of two or three. Rose hips - a special form of polynuts (tsinarodiya) 1-1.5 cm in diameter, orange, red, purple, and sometimes black, naked or covered with bristles, coarsely hairy inside, filled with numerous one-seeded nuts - ripen in August or September.

Planting wild rose in open ground

When to plant rose hips in the ground

Rosehip seedlings take root better when autumn planting, so they are planted in October or November, but if necessary, you can plant a plant in the spring. Rosehip prefers well-lit places on hills. Since the roots of the wild rose penetrate the ground to a great depth, in low-lying, saline or swampy areas, as well as where groundwater lies close to the surface, it will quickly wither. Acidic soils should be limed a year before planting rose hips.

Rose hips are attractive both in solo and group plantings. The rosehip bush can disguise compost heap or an unsightly outbuilding. A prickly plant is also planted along the border of a personal plot. Since rosehip is a cross-pollinated plant, its bushes should be located close to each other.

How to plant a wild rose

Best planting material- two-year-old rosehip seedlings, in which the main roots are shortened to 25 cm before planting, and the shoots are cut at a height of 10 cm.

The planting pit for wild rose in pre-fertilized soil should be about 30 cm in diameter and depth, but if the site was not prepared for planting, then the pits are made wider (50-80 cm) and deeper (40-50 cm) in order to fill them with planting soil mixed with humus (10 kg per plant) with the addition of 150-200 g of superphosphate, 30-50 g of potassium salt and 60-70 g of ammonium nitrate. If you are planting wild rose for a hedge, then the distance between the bushes should be 50 cm. In other cases, it is better to keep a distance of about 1 m. For normal pollination, it is advisable to plant bushes of at least three different varieties on the site.

The root system of the seedling is immersed in a clay mash, then lowered into the pit so that the root neck is 5-8 cm below the surface, and the pit is covered with fertile fertilized soil. After planting, the surface is lightly tamped, 8-10 liters of water are poured under the seedling, and after the water is absorbed, the area around the seedling is mulched with humus, sawdust or peat chips.

Rosehip care in the garden

How to grow a wild rose

The first year after planting, the plant needs frequent and abundant watering. In general, the rosehip culture is drought-resistant and does not require constant moisture, it is enough to pour 2-3 buckets of water under a young bush in hot, dry weather, and about 5 buckets under a fruit-bearing bush. During the season, rose hips are watered only 3-4 times.

For normal growth and development from the second year of life, nitrogen fertilizers must be applied under the wild rose. The first top dressing is carried out in early spring, the second - in June-July, during the rapid growth of shoots, and the third - in September. In the future, every three years, at least 3 kg of humus or compost should be applied under each bush. After each top dressing, the soil under the bush should be watered and loosened, and then mulched.

From the age of three, they begin to cut the dogrose, removing diseased, weak or shrunken shoots, and shortening annual growths to 170-180 cm. At the age of five, the bush should consist of 15-20 branches of different ages, evenly spaced from each other. Branches that have reached the age of seven must be replaced. Pruning is carried out in early spring, before the start of sap flow, because autumn pruning wild rose does not tolerate well. Do not get too carried away with shortening the shoots, otherwise next year you will get a lot of young shoots, which, alas, will not bear fruit.

Because of its prickly thorns, you need to collect rose hips in durable clothes and thick mittens. The fruits begin to ripen in August, and this process continues until mid-October, so harvesting at one time will not work. The last fruits must be removed from the bush before the start of frost, otherwise they may lose their properties.

Rosehip transplant

Sometimes it becomes necessary to transplant the wild rose to another place. The reason may be impoverished soil or initially the wrong choice of location for the plant. repot rosehip better in spring or in October-November. Prepare the hole ahead of time fertile soil for a plant. Having chosen a cloudy day, carefully dig a bush, loosen the ground, pull out the plant along with an earthen clod, trying not to damage the roots, and immediately move it to a new hole: rosehip roots do not tolerate heat well, so the longer they are on the surface, the less likely it is, that the bush will successfully take root.

Sometimes readers ask if it is possible to transplant a flowering wild rose. Experienced gardeners do not recommend doing this: rose hips are transplanted either before the start of sap flow, or after it is completed.

Rosehip breeding

For seed propagation rosehip seeds are harvested from unripe brown fruits in August, while the seed coat has not yet hardened. Seeds are sown in autumn, in October, directly into the ground, the grooves are sprinkled with humus and sawdust. In early spring, a frame is installed over the crops and pulled over it polyethylene film so that the seeds germinate faster. When the seedlings have a pair of true leaves, they can be seated.

For spring sowing, it is advisable to stratify the seeds, that is, mix them with peat or river sand and place in the refrigerator at a temperature of 2-3 ºC, taking out and stirring from time to time.

If you want to be sure to preserve the signs of the mother plant, use the method of propagating wild rose by root offspring. For this purpose, in spring or autumn, you need to choose an offspring 25-40 cm high, separate it from the bush with a shovel and plant it. It is possible, without separating the offspring, to spud it high, water it and periodically pour earth under it: the offspring develops adventitious roots, and next year, in the fall, it can be separated from mother bush, and next spring, carefully dig and transplant to a new place.

Pests and diseases of wild rose

sawfly larvae descending and white-girdle bite into the young shoots of wild rose and make passages up to 4 cm long inside them, which makes the shoots darken and dry. Destroy the larvae with pesticides and insecticides. In autumn, the soil around the bushes is dug up so that the sawfly caterpillars are on the surface and freeze, and the affected shoots are cut and burned until the larvae emerge from them.

Caterpillars of fruit and three types of rose leaf damage young leaves and shoots of wild rose. With a small number of them, it is better to collect the caterpillars with your hands. In the spring, before bud break, the wild rose is treated with a pesticide solution.

Spider mites- sucking insects that feed on the cell sap of the leaves and shoots of wild rose. In addition, they, like aphids, tolerate incurable viral diseases. Ticks start up on plants during a protracted drought, especially if you are in no hurry to water the wild rose. You can try to expel the mites by spraying the underside of the leaves 3-4 times a day with cold water, and they can only be destroyed with acaricidal preparations.

slobber penny located on the underside of the leaves and in their axils, sucking the juices from the plant and releasing a foamy substance. When touched by a pest, it quickly jumps out of the foam and hides. The fight against pennitsa is carried out with a solution of an insecticidal preparation.

pink cicada, giving 2-3 generations in a season, causes great harm to wild rose: the leaves of the plant become covered with white dots, become like marble, lose their decorative effect, then turn yellow and fall prematurely. Pests can be destroyed by two or three treatments of the wild rose and the surrounding area with an insecticidal preparation with an interval of 10-12 days.

rose aphid settles on the plant in large colonies located on the underside of the leaves, peduncles and buds. Aphids, like spider mites, suck the juices out of the plant and infect them. viral diseases. In one year, aphids can give more than 10 generations. To prevent the emergence and spread dangerous pest, in early spring, wild rose is treated with a contact insecticide. Subsequently, preparations such as Karbofos, Actellik, Rogor, Antio and the like are used to treat bushes.

Deer beetles and bronzovka they eat out stamens and pistils in rosehip flowers, eat petals. Plants with light flowers suffer the most from them. Beetles are collected in the early morning, while they sit motionless on the flowers. After collection, the pests are destroyed.

Of the diseases, rose hips most often affect powdery mildew, black spot, rust, chlorosis and peronosporosis.

What is powdery mildew you can read in a detailed article posted on our website. In the fight against powdery mildew, a one percent suspension of colloidal sulfur and other fungicidal preparations are used. Rosehip resistance to powdery mildew and other diseases is increased by potash fertilizers.

black spot manifests itself as black-brown spots on the leaves and petioles of wild rose in the second half of summer. With severe damage, the leaves darken, dry and fall off. To stop the development of the disease, cut off the diseased shoots, tear off and burn the affected leaves, and dig the soil around the bushes with a layer turnover. Treat rose hips with insecticides in autumn and spring.

Rust looks like a dusty mass of spores and small orange-yellow pads on the underside of the leaves. With the development of the disease, the leaves of the plant dry out, and the flowers, shoots and stems are deformed. The diseased parts of the wild rose must be removed and burned, the soil under the bush should be dug up, and before sheltering for the winter, the bush is sprayed with copper sulphate or any other copper-containing preparation. During the growing season, wild rose is treated with a copper-soap solution.

due to chlorosis rosehip leaves appear white or yellow spots. The reason for this phenomenon lies in the deficiency of magnesium, boron, zinc, manganese, iron or other elements, needed by the plant. For example, from a lack of iron, chlorotic coloration appears throughout the leaf, except for large veins, and the lesion begins with young apical leaves. If the soil lacks zinc, then chlorosis spreads along the edge of the leaves, and along the central and lateral veins, the leaf remains green. From a lack of magnesium, the leaves turn yellow and die, but the veins remain green. Boron deficiency causes thickening of the tissue of young leaves, in addition, they become pale and brittle. Determine the cause of chlorosis and apply to the soil necessary element. You can treat the rosehip with a solution of trace elements on the leaves.

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