Do-it-yourself pvc suspended ceiling. How to install plastic panels and lighting on the ceiling with your own hands

• familiar stranger
• Preparation of the base ceiling
• Lathing device
• Installation of plastic panels

Until recently, there were not so many ways to finish the ceiling. Whitewash, paint with water-based emulsion. The daredevils still dared to glue the ceiling with wallpaper - that's all. And today there are suspended, stretch, mirror, stained glass ceilings, etc.

Ceiling sheathing with plastic panels is the simplest, most economical and fast way finishes.

To date, one of the most popular, especially among those who like to do everything around the house with their own hands, has become a plastic ceiling. Such popularity is due to the fact that making a plastic ceiling is quite simple, especially for those who have had to deal with the device. suspended ceilings, and it will cost only a little more than a plasterboard ceiling.

familiar stranger

Strictly speaking, a plastic ceiling is a suspended ceiling.

It is attached to the main ceiling with the help of special suspensions on a frame made of metal profiles or wooden slats. Only the material for panels instead of drywall is polyvinyl chloride, one of the safest and most harmless types of plastic. Suffice it to say that in addition to wall and ceiling panels, food containers are made from PVC.

It is easy to make such a ceiling with your own hands, giving it an attractive look. appearance. Panel seams will not be visible on it, besides, it will last you much longer than the plasterboard counterpart, and it requires the most minimal care - from time to time to remove dust from the plastic. This is easy to do with a damp cloth, as plastic is absolutely not afraid of water.

When choosing panels, it is important not to confuse and not buy wall panels instead of ceiling panels. Although they are made of the same material, they differ significantly. Wall panels are much heavier than ceiling panels, which makes a huge difference.

If you mount such panels on the ceiling, you will get a significant load on its frame. And this is fraught: one fine day, the frame may simply not withstand, and the ceiling will collapse. And if you install ceiling panels on a wall, they deform over time, since their mechanical strength is much lower.

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Preparation of the base ceiling

Types of plastic panels.

Making such a plastic ceiling with your own hands is no more difficult than a regular plasterboard suspended ceiling. Installation of any false ceiling, incl. and plastic, you should start with the preparation of the base ceiling. Its surface must be thoroughly cleaned of exfoliated lime or plaster and treated with an antifungal solution.

Then you need to take care of the electrical wiring passing through the ceiling. Indeed, in most cases, lamps and chandeliers will be mounted on the ceiling. Before mounting the ceiling, you need to fix the wires and at least bring them to the switch. Wires must be securely insulated. Jokes with electricity are dangerous, so if you do not have enough experience in this matter, then it is better to seek help from a specialist.

To mount the plastic ceiling yourself, you will need the following tools:

Scheme of fixing PVC panels.

• puncher or electric drill with a drill bit;
• hacksaw for metal;
• construction knife;
• roulette;
• square;
• rebound paint cord;
• water level;
• screwdriver

From the materials do not forget to purchase:

• antifungal solution;
• suspensions;
• dowels (be sure to take the same diameter with a drill with which you will drill holes);
• plastic panels;
• ceiling profiles;
• self-tapping screws.

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Lathing device

Installation of plastic ceilings.

The frame for a plastic ceiling can be made from both wooden slats and a metal guide profile. Still, the second option is preferable, since the metal is less susceptible to changing its dimensions under the influence of temperature and humidity.

You need to decide in advance how far you will lower the panels. At the same time, you need to take into account the depth of your lamps - mainly from 5 to 10 cm. Having decided on the height, you need to install and fix the profile guides strictly horizontally. Here it is better not to rush and double-check everything several times. Otherwise, rushing and setting the wrong profile, you will not leave yourself any other choice but to make the ceiling oblique, which will immediately catch your eye.

From the base ceiling at the corners of one of the walls is measured down desired distance. It is important that the marked marks are at the same level, so be sure to check their location using a water level. Then these two marks are connected with a cord into one horizontal line.

Taking the measured horizontal as a guideline, you need to draw the same lines around the entire perimeter of the room, checking them with a level. This will be the horizontal plane to make the ceiling even.

The next step in the installation will be the installation of metal guide profiles along the marked border. The profiles are fixed directly to the wall by drilling holes in it with a perforator or drill, using plastic dowels and galvanized self-tapping screws for fastening.

In order not to disturb the horizontal when attaching the profiles, the end of the unattached profile is laid at the end of the attached one, then its other end is laid strictly according to the markup, and the profile is attached to the wall along its entire length.

Having finished installing the profile on the walls, you need to install the profile on the ceiling itself. To do this, on the ceiling along the direction of installation of the ceiling profile, you need to fix straight suspensions in increments of 50-60 cm. The suspensions must be fixed strictly along a straight line, breaking it off with a paint cord. Ceiling profiles are attached to these suspensions, and guide profiles fixed on the walls are laid at the ends. With this false ceiling design, there is no danger that one day it will fall on your head.

Even 3-4 decades ago, the decoration and repair of ceilings consisted in their periodic painting or whitewashing. Now modern market building and finishing materials offers a lot interesting solutions, which can be used for ceiling lining. Polyvinyl chloride plastic panels have an excellent value for money. For a reasonable price, you can easily update the ceiling covering. The main advantage of such a finish is that you can install a ceiling made of plastic panels with your own hands, without resorting to the services of specialists.

If you are too lazy to read, then watch the video on the installation of PVC panels:

Advantages of plastic panels:

• strength and durability;
• moisture resistance and fire safety;
• excellent sound insulation;
• ease of care;
• a light weight.

For finishing the ceiling in the bathroom, kitchen and bathroom the best option can not found.

What is required to install a ceiling made of plastic panels?

Many are interested in how to make a ceiling from plastic panels. First you need to prepare tools and purchase materials. You need to decide which panels are more suitable for a particular room. Better choice of material light colors. On sale there are glossy, matte, imitating wood or marble panels of different sizes.

Necessary materials:

1. Ceiling panels: plastic. To calculate the quantity, you need to use the following formula: divide the ceiling area by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone panel (this figure is on the package). In the resulting figure, add about 15% more in reserve.
2. Profiles. It is necessary to count the number of metal profiles. It is best to draw a ceiling diagram on a piece of paper and mark the location of the profiles. The distance between them should be no more than 60 cm. For installation, you will also need strong metal profiles that are installed around the perimeter of the ceiling.
3. Self-tapping screws and dowels. The number of self-tapping screws and dowels is calculated depending on the number of profiles with a margin.
4. plinth. Finding out the required amount is simple: the perimeter of the ceiling must be divided into three (3 m - the length of one fragment).

From the tools you need to prepare a screwdriver, a knife, a puncher (or in its absence), metal shears, a water level, a tape measure.

Preparing to finish the ceiling with panels

The advantage of finishing the ceiling with panels is that there is no urgent need to dismantle the old coating. If it is in good condition, just outdated or tired, then the frame of the crate can be mounted directly on it. Even if the ceiling is curved, exactly installed panels plastic can easily hide such a flaw. This finishes the ceiling with PVC panels favorably, and.

But if the ceiling is in a dubious position, it must be cleaned of the old coating, which can then suddenly collapse. After thorough cleaning.

Then you can start marking the attachment points of the profiles that will go along the perimeter. To markup was strictly horizontal, use the level. For drawing horizontal lines, it is convenient to use a special twine, painted with chalk. It is pressed to the surface with strictly marked marks, slightly retracted and abruptly released. An even strip of colored chalk will remain on the wall.

Frame installation

The frame can be made of plastic, wood or metal:

1. plastic crate.

A U-shaped plastic profile is attached along the perimeter of the ceiling so that the line drawn in chalk does not protrude beyond its borders. In the corners, the profiles are cut with a miter box and a hacksaw. The distance between the fasteners is no more than 30 cm. After that, they pull the thread across the ceiling and proceed with the installation of the transverse profiles.

1. wooden frame.

The crate can also be made of wood. But for rooms with high humidity (kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms), this option is of little use. If it is decided to make a crate of wood, then the material must be treated with an antiseptic before use to prevent rotting and destruction. To improve the refractory characteristics, the material is treated with flame retardants. Wooden beams are attached to the ceiling with dowels and screws. Distance - 55-60 cm.

1. Metallic profile

Ceiling cladding with plastic panels metal profiles consists of several stages:

1. Rigid U-shaped profiles are tightly attached to the wall without gaps.
2. Now they begin to install transverse profiles every 60 cm. They are tightly fixed with self-tapping screws to rigid U-shaped profiles.
3. Next, L-shaped profiles are attached to rigid profiles along the perimeter of the ceiling.

Wiring for lighting

A suspended ceiling makes it possible to hide all communications and wires, therefore, at this stage, communications are carried out or masked. If you need to hide the wires, the panels are installed in such a way that there is a space of at least 2 cm between them and the ceiling. Wires in without fail put in a corrugation.

Installation of PVC panels

It is important not to forget to remove the protective film from the surface of the panels. After that, proceed to cutting and installing panels. The panels are cut with a sharp hacksaw along the length of the ceiling (minus 2-3 mm). The edges are cleaned with fine sandpaper. To make it easier, during installation, follow the following sequence:

• first, one narrow end is inserted into the starting profile along the perimeter;
• then the panel is slightly bent and a second narrow end is installed;
• after that, the wide end is carefully pushed into the profile (for convenience, a small spatula is sometimes used);
• now the fragment is fixed with self-tapping screws.

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At first sight independent production a false ceiling made of plastic panels is a difficult task. However, even a superficial acquaintance with the technology of arrangement will help to do this work with your own hands without the help of professionals. It is only important to observe certain rules at all stages of work.

Preparing for installation

First you need to draw up a drawing of the future design. Despite its relative simplicity, a properly made scheme will greatly simplify the further process of installing plastic panels.

It consists of two main elements:

• Basic structure. It is made of wooden bars measuring 30 * 30 mm or stainless steel. The latter option is preferable when arranging in a bathroom or kitchen - these rooms have high humidity, which can affect the durability of wooden components.
• Plastic decorative surface. It is formed from polymeric flat sheets, which are connected to each other using locking mechanism. It is located at the ends of the profile. Sheets are attached to the structure.

It is noteworthy that the installation does not require preliminary preparation of the draft ceiling. Alignment will be performed using special elements - suspensions. It is only important to correctly calculate the consumption of material.

In this case, it is necessary to take into account the size of the profile load-bearing structure, width and length of plastic panels. It is necessary to choose such models so that after cutting there is a minimum of non-business waste.

Frame manufacturing

First, using the level, markings are made on the walls. This is necessary so that the plane of the supporting structure is strictly parallel to the floor. Then galvanized profiles (UD27) are mounted around the perimeter - they will serve as a support for the main carriers (CD-40). For fastening in increments of 20-30 cm, suspensions are installed. The distance between the profiles is usually 40 cm.

It is important that before installing all the elements, wiring for lighting has already been prepared. The ends of the cable must be carefully insulated.

The installation of the main profiles takes place according to the following scheme:

• First, they are installed in a frame located around the perimeter.
• Then there is fastening to the suspensions. At the same time, the location level of each profile is checked. They must be in the same plane.

The total height of the structure relative to the draft ceiling is usually 5-7 cm. If lighting devices are installed in the future, then their dimensions will be a guideline. In this case, the total distance from the ceiling to the plastic panels should be equal to the height of the fixtures +1 cm. This is necessary for the comfortable installation of electrical appliances.

Installation steps

To mount the panels, you must first install the ceiling plastic plinth. It is located on the opposite wall from the door. Fastening is carried out on the profile UD27. The installation of the first panel also begins.

The panels need to be properly cut first. Their length should be equal to the total distance from the walls in the room minus 2 mm. With an increase in dimensions, the profile will bend and surface tension will occur.

After installing the first panel, it is attached to the supporting structure through the working edge. To do this, use self-tapping screws 9.5 * 3.5 with a drill and a semicircular head. They must fit snugly into the profile so as not to interfere with the connection in the future. next sheet into the mounting groove.

Most often, the installation of the last panel is the most difficult. Its width exceeds the distance from the plane already installed and the wall. Therefore, it should be carefully cut along. For this, it is best to use a drywall knife.

After that, it is pre-mounted. The last panel is mounted in it and is not fastened with screws. On this, the installation of a plastic ceiling can be considered complete. Additionally, holes are made in the plane of the ceiling for the installation of fixtures. To do this, you need to use a special cutting tool. Otherwise, there is a high probability of damage to the plastic.

Improving the appearance of the ceiling is simple. With all the variety of modern finishing materials, there are many ways to change the interior of the room. One of them is the installation of a ceiling made of pvc panels. It is not surprising that the question of how to make a suspended ceiling from plastic panels with your own hands is heard more and more often.

This type of finish immediately gives the room an unusual look and it can be attributed to the class "European-quality repair", at a relatively small cash cost and without loss of quality of work.

Benefits of using plastic products

Those who installed a suspended ceiling made of PVC panels on their own note such distinctive features how:

• Durability;
• Good plasticity and sound insulation;
• Protection against fading in the sun and moisture;
• Easy to clean;
• Environmentally friendly;
• Effectively hides uneven ceilings;
• Allows you to discreetly place the wiring under the lighting elements.

Cons of PVC ceilings

1. Despite the fact that PVC panels, which finish the suspended ceiling, resist high temperatures well (up to 400 ° C), they, like all plastic materials, may burn. And when ignited, toxic gas is released. Therefore, for safety reasons, the power of pendant and recessed luminaires should be limited to suspended structures and also avoid places with open sources of fire.
2. The material itself, from which the cladding panels are made, is plastic, which cannot withstand mechanical stress, such as hitting with a hammer. After that, the panels simply crack and lose their appearance.
3. If direct sunlight falls on the ceiling, which is planned to be finished with plastic elements, it is recommended that this venture should be abandoned. Under the influence of direct sun rays plastic panels fade and acquire an unpleasant yellow tint. And the colored elements just fade in the sun over time.
4. Some homeowners refuse to finish the ceilings with PVC panels due to the fact that the premises take on a non-residential office look. But this can rather be attributed to the category of psychological perception. And here is a matter of taste.

We calculate the necessary material

Before starting work in which the ceiling will be mounted from pvc panels, you need to know how much and what material may be needed when working.

PVC panels

In order to correctly purchase the right amount of material, you need to know them dimensions. As a rule, they are indicated on the packaging. Panels are available:

Thickness - from 5 to 10 mm,

Width - 25 - 30 cm,

The length of the canvas is 2.7 - 3 meters.

When calculating the number of PVC panels, the surface area of ​​the ceiling must be divided by the area of ​​​​one panel (it is written on the package). 10-15% is added for unforeseen expenses, after which you can purchase material for lining the ceiling.

Metallic profile

It is more difficult to determine the number of profiles for the installation of a false ceiling.

It is best to take a sheet of paper and reflect a large-scale copy of the ceiling on it. Parallel corners are drawn on the sheet in increments of 60 cm. The required profile volume for the entire room is calculated. It is also necessary to take into account the need for more rigid profiles that are mounted around the entire perimeter of the ceiling. Similarly, the number of screws and dowels is calculated.

Ceiling plinth

They are framed by the entire ceiling around the entire perimeter of the room. Knowing the perimeter, it is necessary to divide by 3 (the length of one segment). We get right amount plinth strips. Do not forget about unforeseen expenses of 10-15%.

Required tool

In the process of self-finishing the ceiling with PVC panels, you can not do without the following tools:

• screwdriver or low-speed drill;
• bubble 2-meter level;
• miter box;
• hacksaw;
• metal scissors;
• "liquid Nails";
• rag.

Be sure to have plastic dowels and screws for them to fasten the mounting elements. A frame is assembled with a screwdriver. PVC panels can be directly fastened to the frame itself either with screws with a press washer, or with metal clips designed for this type of fastening work.

Ceiling preparation

Before the beginning installation work, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the ceiling. Anything that crumbles or falls off the surface (plaster, old whitewash etc.) is carefully cleaned. Then the surface of the ceiling is recommended to be primed.

After the preparatory work, proceed to the marking of the frame around the perimeter. A solid line is marked with a pencil around the room on the walls. It will serve as a guide for the installation of suspended elements.

This distance must take into account the space under concealed wiring room lighting elements - at least 2 cm. The lowest place is selected on the surface of the ceiling and a line is drawn along the walls at a 2-meter level. Also, all lines are transferred to other walls according to the level. The laser level is optimal for this stage of work.

Important! The estimated level of the suspended ceiling can be drawn with a string of twine, liberally smeared with chalk.

Then they begin marking the supporting structures of the frame. They are located perpendicular to the PVC panels (60 cm apart).

Types of crates

1st type: plastic crate

The material for the manufacture of a U-shaped profile or plinth is high-quality plastic. After the lower border is drawn on the walls, it is attached to the walls along this line. When mounting in the corners, use a hacksaw.

The profile is fixed every 25-30 cm.

2nd type: frame made of wooden beams

Used as a frame wooden beam. With dowels and impact screws, the beam is attached to the ceiling every 60 cm. To level it in one level, wooden linings are used between the beam and the ceiling.

3rd type: frame made of metal elements

The most common type of crate for false ceilings. U-shaped metal components are mounted to the floor surface every 60-80 cm using anchors that are able to take heavy loads on suspended structures.

In places where heavy elements are supposed to be fastened (such as a chandelier), additional jumpers are installed between the supporting elements of the frame.

Phased installation of the frame

We are approaching the description of the phased installation of a suspended ceiling made of PVC panels.

1st stage

Places for attaching profiles are marked on the walls. In order for the false ceiling line to be horizontal, a level is used. Then, a profile is installed along the perimeter of the ceiling, so that there are no cracks and gaps between the wall and the profile.

2nd stage

Installation of transverse profiles.

3rd stage

We take the profile "L" and fasten it around the perimeter of the room.

Starting "L" profile

If it is planned to place additional lighting in a false ceiling, electrical wiring is done.

4th stage

Products from PVC panels are being prepared. Laying the first panel is carried out in the corner to the transverse U-shaped profiles. Subsequent panels are inserted into the groove of the previous one and fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws.

Experienced craftsmen know how to make a ceiling from pvc panels. With a knife or a hacksaw, the latch is cut around the entire edge of the first panel. The material is easy to cut.

In order for the panels to fit snugly together, they are hammered to the stop during installation.

Attention! Ready-made strips of PVC panels should not be bent with great effort during operation. Plates can break!

5th stage

The last panel is installed. At this stage, special care and patience is required, as cutting to width will most likely be required. Carefully, so as not to break, the panel is inserted into the bar of the opposite wall.

Alternatively, the PVC strip is turned over with a lock facing opposite side, and cut from the side of the groove.

Screws secure the last element.

6th stage

fastened ceiling plinth with liquid nails. Glue is applied to the baseboard and pressed against the ceiling for a few seconds. Remains of glue are removed with a rag.

Attention! Ceiling plinth can be successfully attached to both the wall and the ceiling.

If the plinth is collapsible, installation takes place by simply snapping the opposite part. The cracks are covered with sealants.

Completion of work

In the designated places in the PVC panels, holes are made for the installation of lighting devices. Then the lamps themselves and equipment for them are installed.

If the installation of fixtures is carried out for the bathroom, it is better to use light elements with low voltage (you need a current converter). So you can protect yourself and your neighbors from above from electric shock in case of flooding.

PVC slabs installed as a false ceiling in the kitchen can be perfectly cleaned from soot and grease with ordinary detergents.

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Conclusion

So, now we can say with confidence that making a ceiling from pvc panels with your own hands is possible even for people without experience in installing suspended ceilings.

Alexander Dragun, Ph.D., site expert

Until recently, plastic for filing the ceiling was used mainly in the budgetary repair of Soviet-built apartments. According to the established tradition, these were an entrance hall, a corridor, a toilet, a bathroom, a kitchen, a balcony or a loggia. Contributed to this low price finishing material and easy care - soot and grease were easily washed with soapy water without streaks. Unpleasant odors and the simple design of plastic panels made such a ceiling inappropriate in living rooms: bedroom, nursery and living room.

Everything has changed with the advent of new types of PVC finishing materials. Various colors, textures and sizes of panels, allowing you to create an interesting design upper part apartments, possibility to collect two-level ceiling and combine plastic trim with GKL, decorative plaster and stretch fabrics, lack of smell, ease of maintenance made PVC panels in demand for the population with an average income.

Plastic began to finish the ceilings in all rooms. The growing popularity of PVC did not pass by the owners wooden houses- they increasingly began to sheathe their ceilings with polyvinyl chloride.

Advantages and disadvantages of a PVC panel ceiling

The growing popularity of plastic ceilings is primarily due to their low cost and ease of installation. At the same time, this type of ceiling space decoration has other advantages:

• suspended structure allows you to hide all the flaws of the ceiling: lack of horizontal, visible joints floor slabs, concrete peeling, microcracks, chips, shells, etc.;
• communications can be hidden under the crate;
• Availability free space between the ceiling and floor slabs allows for additional insulation premises and noise protection from neighbors from above;
• it becomes possible to install spot lighting;
• ease of construction, which allows the use of "economy" profiles;
• no expensive finishing front side, unlike drywall;
• panels are easy to clean from dust, soot and volatile fats with detergents, after which they completely restore decorative qualities and colors;
• material resistant to temperature changes and high humidity, not afraid of domestic rodents and various small pests, which allows it to be used in damp and unheated rooms (dachas);
• non-destructive dismantling - the ceiling is disassembled and reassembled either in another room or in the same one, but after additional work;
• the possibility of installing such a false ceiling yourself;
• durability - service life with proper care is at least 15 years;
• renovation of the finish is carried out only by replacing the panels - the new sheathing is carried out on the old frame;
• environmental friendliness of materials - the panels are made from the same material as disposable syringes.

There are plastic ceilings and disadvantages associated with the peculiarity of the finishing material:

• fragile - holes appear at the site of a small point impact (they can also be damaged by accidentally pressing a finger);
• under the influence of high temperatures, a lot of acrid smoke is released, which is harmful to humans;
• preservation of a specific smell for several weeks after installation;
• turn yellow (cloudy) under the influence of direct sunlight;
• melt when installing powerful lamps;
• limited design - without involving other types of finishing material, it is problematic to create something stylish and beautiful;
• the presence of visible connecting seams, but this drawback is rather relative, because there were ideas for turning seams into decorative elements.

Features of PVC ceiling panels

Plastic ceilings are hanging type with a rigid frame, where wooden slats or a metal profile is attached to polyvinyl chloride. Polyvinyl chloride panels consist of two thin plates interconnected at a distance of 5-10 mm from each other by stiffening ribs.

The presence of air space between the plates reduces the thermal conductivity of the ceiling and improves sound insulation. On the panels, on the one hand, there is a spike and a plate for fastening to the frame, on the other - interlock connection.

Manufacturers guarantee a service life of at least 15 years under operating conditions from -50 to +50 degrees.

The main types of panels

All types of commercially available panels can be classified according to several parameters.

By invoice: glossy and matte.

Coloring method:

• Monophonic, with increased resistance to ultraviolet;
• Lacquered - in this way a glossy surface is created. A significant drawback is that the thinnest varnish film is destroyed by any mechanical impact, resulting in a visible scratch;
• laminated under natural materials. the main problem such a ceiling is ultraviolet. Under the influence of sunlight, the laminate very soon begins to flake off;
• Mirror - a special film applied to the panel allows you to reflect up to 90% of the light. Such ceilings are installed in restaurants, large shopping malls, swimming pools, etc.;
• With printed pattern;
• With thermal printing, allowing you to diversify color scheme images.

Mounting method:

• with a visible seam;
• seamless.

By panel size PVC can be:

• length - 270 cm, 300 cm, 400 cm, 600 cm;
• width - 10 cm, 20 cm, 25 cm;
• thickness - 10 mm.

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling begins with the purchase of finishing material. Here it is necessary to pay attention to quality and design. A quality product must have:

• smooth, without wave edges, which will allow for quick and high-quality assembly;
• smooth surface, without protruding ribs;
• the correct geometric shape (without twisting around the longitudinal axis);
• uniform coloring, with smooth color transitions;
• intact condition: no cracks or chips even on the back.

The quality is also checked by a practical method: several times strongly squeeze the corner of the panel with your fingers. Bad material will break, good material will be slightly deformed. You should not save on the thickness of the plates (all PVC panels have a thickness of 10 mm, but they can have front and back plates of different thicknesses) - you should refuse to buy thin ones.

Finishing the ceiling with plastic panels should not be based on the personal preferences of the master or the owners when choosing a design. Here are some basic principles to follow:

• Visually expand the space light color panels;
• The glossy surface creates the illusion of a distant ceiling;
• There should not be more than 3 colors in a room, including the floor, walls and ceiling. Black and White color not taken into account, they are neutral (does not apply to drawings and images printed on the ceiling);
• When the panels are monochrome, there should not be more than 2 colors at the top, including white;
• Visible seams should be avoided unless they are decorative.

Affects the consumer properties of the ceiling and the choice of panel manufacturer - on Russian market there are many building materials. Among the best:

• Venta (Belgium). Produces PVC panels different size and design, including drawings made by modern digital printing devices. Products of the upper price segment.
• Forte (Italy). On the market since 1969. High quality products with huge amount colors and shades to create interesting design in any room of the apartment. The cost of the panels corresponds to the quality - high.
• LLC "Planet Plastic" (Russia, Moscow). Works on foreign equipment and fully imported raw materials. The product range includes more than 150 options for finishing panels.
• AnV-plast LLC (Russia, Krasnodar). A young but rapidly growing company. Works entirely on domestic raw materials. Beats the competition with a rich selection of panels in both size and design, as well as a lower price.

Preparatory steps for assembling a ceiling made of PVC panels

Do-it-yourself ceiling made of plastic panels is assembled in a strict sequence of work performed. First, preparatory work is underway:

• the amount of materials is calculated;
• ceiling panels, metal profiles, moldings and self-tapping screws are purchased, a set is completed necessary tools and fixtures;
• the surface of the ceiling is being prepared for the installation of the frame.

Calculation of the required amount of materials

Before calculation required amount materials, you should decide on the direction of laying the panels. Here the rule applies: the connecting seams must be parallel to the flow of light, i.e. perpendicular to the window. However, if the distance between the wall with the window and the opposite wall is more than 6 m, you will have to choose between an additional connecting seam between the panels along the length and PVC installation parallel to the window. Many choose the second option.

The method for calculating the number of panels differs from the generally accepted scheme for calculating a material that covers any surface. An option when the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling is determined, and then, based on this indicator, the number is determined required material does not fit. In our case, the length of the wall is measured first, parallel to which the panels will be laid.

The result is rounded up to a whole number to know how long the panel needs to be purchased. Then the length of the adjacent wall is found, which is divided by the width of the panels planned for installation. The result is multiplied by 1.1 to compensate for unexpected material losses during installation. When buying PVC, one more thing must be taken into account: there are always 6 panels in the package, regardless of their size.

To demonstrate what has been said, we will carry out all the calculations for a real room. Initial data:

• the length of the wall with a window (we denote the wall with the symbol A, the opposite - A1) - 3.8 m;
• the length of the adjoining wall (B) and the opposite wall (B1) - 5.6 m;
• panel width - 0.25 m.

Thanks to simple calculations, we determine the number of panels: 3.8 / 0.25 x 1.1 / 6 = 2.7(3 packs of 6-meter panels).

The number of guide profile (PN) is determined by the formula: H \u003d L x 2 / 3, where:

• H is the number of profiles, pcs.;
• L is the length of the wall B, m;
• 2 - the number of walls;
• 3 - standard length of the guide profile, m.

Let's plug in the numbers: 5.6 m x 2 / 3 m = 3.7. The result is rounded up to the next whole number. Thus, it is necessary to buy 4 PN profiles.

The number of ceiling profile (PS) is calculated as follows: K = L / C x M, where:

• K is the length of the ceiling profile in m;
• L is the length of the wall B;
• C - step length between the ceiling profile, m;
• M is the length of wall A, m.

We calculate the number of PS profile: 5.6 m / 0.4 m x 3.8 m = 53.2 m. In order not to connect the profiles along the length, you need to buy 4-meter ones - 14 pieces will be required for work. (53.2/4).

For reference: a profile with a length of 2.5 m, 3.0 m, 3.5 m, 4 m is offered for sale.

The number of ceiling plinth (moldings) is calculated simply: S - equal to the perimeter of the walls (5.6 m x 2 + 3.8 m x 2).

Necessary materials and tools

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling will require the purchase of the following materials:

• polyvinyl chloride panels - 3 packs;
• plastic moldings (plinth, baguette);
• PN profile (guide) 25x25x3000 (economy) - 4 pcs.;
• PS profile (ceiling) 60x25x3000 (economy) - 14 pcs.;
• direct suspension;
• dowel-nails 6 × 60;
• self-tapping screws "bug";
• self-tapping screws with a press washer;
• liquid nails;
• electrical wires;
• lamps.

In order not to be distracted during the search for the necessary tools, you should prepare in advance:

• ladder or scaffolding (popular name "goats");
• perforator with nozzles;
• screwdriver;
• "Bulgarian" (if necessary, replace a hacksaw with a blade for metal);
• laser or hydraulic level;
• roulette;
• building corner (90 degrees);
• a knife with a replaceable blade;
• construction (chopping) cord.

Preparatory work

The plastic ceiling has two problems:

• at a certain angle of illumination, everything that falls on the ceiling surface from the floor panels is visible through the plastic;
• through the connecting seams leaks small debris falling from the concrete floor.

You can prevent such moments very simply - clean the ceiling with a metal brush, and then wipe it with a damp cloth. It is desirable to putty small cracks and chips.

At the end of the preparatory work, many professionals advise to treat the floors with a deep penetration primer with antifungal drugs. Such an operation will prevent the appearance of mold and fungi in the corners.

Materials have been purchased, a set of tools has been prepared, the ceiling has been cleaned. It remains to learn how to make a ceiling of plastic panels with your own hands.

Installation instructions

Installation work has step by step algorithm execution of technological operations:

1. a scheme for fastening the frame and fixtures (if necessary, and drivers) is drawn up;
2. the marking of the passage of the guide and ceiling profiles, the attachment points of direct suspensions and lamps is carried out;
3. a guide profile PN is attached to the wall;
4. the frame is assembled;
5. wires are bred for lighting;
6. mounted panel ceiling;
7. finishing work is being done.

Schema and markup

Many builders ignore the diagramming process and markup. In principle, without them, you can mount a plastic ceiling. It just takes a few more hours to do so. After all, thanks to a simple drawing, you can first mark on paper, and then on the walls and ceiling with an accuracy of up to a centimeter, the locations of lamps, suspensions and profiles.

Markup.

Work begins by finding the lowest point of the ceiling. To do this, it is enough to measure the height of the apartment in the corners ( ceilings have a smooth surface, so a large number of measurements, as with floor screed, are not required).

At the next stage, the interceiling space required for the fixtures is determined (you need to know in advance which fixtures will be installed). From the lowest point of overlap, it is necessary to descend to the distance required by the light sources and fix the future ceiling plane on the wall. With the help of hydro or laser level a line is drawn along the entire perimeter of the room on the wall, along which the panels will be assembled. If the correct calculation has been made, the ends of the line will match. If the discrepancy is 0.5 cm or more, the work must be redone.

The rest is simple: with the help of a tape measure, the attachment points of the ceiling profile (40 cm step), suspensions (70 cm step) and the location of the lamps are marked. The work is not difficult, but it saves a lot of time.

Profile fixing

Fastening the frame begins with the installation of a guide profile on the wall. Step by step it looks like this:

1. the metal guide is cut with a grinder or a hacksaw to the size of the walls B and B1;
2. holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in the profile with a puncher - the first and last are 10-20 cm from the edge, the rest in increments of 50 cm;
3. the bar is tightly pressed against the wall with the lower part strictly along the line of the ceiling;
4. through the drilled holes on the wall, marks are made for hardware;
5. holes are drilled, dowels are driven into them;
6. the PN profile is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws so that there are no gaps.

For reference: some sources state that if there is an urgent need not to lower the ceiling low, the guide panels can be fixed on the wall liquid nails. Then the height of the apartment will decrease by only 3.1 cm. Such a technological solution can be used, but with the condition that the supporting profile is attached to the ceiling every 40 cm. Another solution to the problem is to hem plastic panels onto a wooden crate or MDF sheets.

Frame installation

The structure of the frame for suspended ceilings is considered in detail in the work "". Briefly recall the instructions:

1. direct suspensions are attached to the ceiling;
2. the PS profile is cut to size with a grinder or a hacksaw;
3. both ends are inserted into the guide profile and fastened with “bug” screws;
4. load-bearing strips are additionally attached to the ceiling with suspensions - one "bug" on each side.

Attention: it is necessary to insert the PS profile into the guide bar strictly perpendicularly.

After assembling the frame, suspensions are attached at the installation site of the fixtures.

Wiring

An important point in the installation false ceiling from plastic panels - wiring for lighting. It begins after the installation of the frame. There are several things to consider here:

1. When laying wiring under voltage 220 V, it must:

• have a double braid;
• hide in a plastic corrugated tube;
• do not sag (should not touch future panels);
• accurately reach the place of attachment of the lamp;
• be fixed from the frame at a distance of at least 2 cm;
• have sufficient ends to connect to lighting fixtures.

2. Wires for voltage 12-24 V at first glance are very easy to bring to each lamp. However, there are some important points here:

• The length of the wiring for LED-lamps cannot be more than 2 m - they sharply lose the power of the luminous flux. Therefore, it is necessary to provide for the installation of several drivers on the ceiling.
• If possible, connect the wires into bundles using plastic clamps.
• Avoid contact with 220 V wiring.

Panel mounting

The owner of the house can install the plastic ceiling. The only thing he needs is the installation technology and the help of one of the family members (a long panel cannot be held alone). In the instructions on how to fix plastic panels to the ceiling, any beginner in the construction business will figure it out.

1. On three walls (A, B and A1), close to the guide profile, a ceiling plinth with a groove for PVC panels is attached to the wall with liquid nails.

2. Measure the distance between walls A and A1 for the first panel with a tape measure.

Important: there are practically no right angles in the apartments. Therefore, the lengths of adjacent walls may differ by several centimeters, which requires measuring the distance between the walls for each PVC plank.

3. The panel is cut 5mm shorter on each side. Tool - hacksaw or grinder.

Attention: for panels up to 3 m long, 1 cm must be cut on each side, otherwise it will not be possible to insert it into the plinth - it will break when bent.

4. The film is removed from the panel (protection is not installed by all manufacturers), after which it is oriented so that the lock looks towards the wall, the spike outward, and the mounting plate is on top. One end is inserted into the groove of the ceiling plinth. The bar gently bends down, after which the second end of the panel is inserted into the groove.

Important: before starting work, it is necessary to carry out a preliminary layout of all panels. Such an operation is necessary in order to correctly determine the size of the last bar. If it turns out to be less than 1/3 of its width, the first panel is to be cut - 1/3 of the width is cut out.

5. We bring the plastic to a horizontal position and carefully slide it into the ceiling plinth on wall B. To make the panel easy to insert, we help with a small thin spatula. Problems may arise due to slight deformation of the panel lock. Therefore, the spatula must be worked not only from below, but also from above. Since all connecting nodes are standard, the plastic will always fit into the groove exactly.

6. The panel is attracted by self-tapping screws to ceiling profile. The operation is simple, but not everyone knows how to fix PVC panels to the ceiling correctly. If the self-tapping screw is screwed directly into the mounting plate, the screwdriver often breaks off the bit from the head of the hardware and damages the plastic. Experienced professionals screw the hardware with a press washer next to the bar. The panel is clamped not by the self-tapping screw itself, but by the edge of the washer. This technology eliminates damage to the already mounted ceiling.

For reference: some experts, in order not to damage the panel, first drill a hole, and then screw in the self-tapping screw. But it's a waste of time.

7. The next panel is mounted, up to the last bar. How to install the last panel, we will tell separately.

How to install the latest panel

Installing the last panel is the most difficult operation in the entire plastic ceiling assembly technology. There are several mounting methods. Let's consider the simplest one. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

1. The distance from the wall to the penultimate panel is measured in different angles - it can vary by several centimeters;
2. 1 cm is subtracted from the results obtained;
3. The panel width is given in required size hacksaw or "grinder";
4. The panel is inserted at both ends into the grooves of the plinth;
5. Using adhesive tape and a spatula, the bar snaps into the lock of the previous panel;
6. Spacers are placed between the wall and the last PVC so that the panel does not move into the groove of the plinth - it will not work to fix its position with self-tapping screws;
7. The plinth is cut out under the spacers, smeared with glue and put between the wall and the panel, after which it is pressed against the wall. After 10 minutes, you need to press it against the wall again;
8. Excess glue is wiped off with a rag.

Finishing

At the end of the assembly of the ceiling, the last, but very important, stroke remains - beauty guidance. There are several independent operations here.

1. In this paper, we considered the option of installing PVC panels directly into the ceiling plinth with a groove for the ceiling. In this case, no additional operations are provided. If a collapsible version of the molding was used, then a baguette must be glued to the U-shaped profile. Glue (liquid nails) is applied only on one side of the plinth: from the side of the wall or profile and ceiling.

2. Inner corner is never straight. So perfect fit gusset skirting boards is not possible. You can remove the gap with acrylic putty of the appropriate color.

3. By different reasons between installed ceiling and plinths often form gaps (the panel is pinched inside the guide profile, a sagging that is invisible to the eye has formed, etc.), which does not decorate the work done. You can eliminate the gap with a sealant (in a tube) on acrylic base inserted into a construction pistol.

The sealant is pumped into the gaps in small portions, no more than 30 cm in one pass, after which the excess acrylic is removed with a narrow spatula with a sharp blade. A damp sponge removes traces of putty from the ceiling and plinth. If this is not done in a timely manner, the sealant will seize, and it will not be possible to remove it. So pass the entire perimeter of the ceiling.

4. As noted above, it is better to embed fixtures in the course of assembling the ceiling. If this work is not done in a timely manner, then holes for light sources must be made with an electric drill with a crown. In size, it should be 4 mm larger in diameter than the lamp itself. Thereafter lighting fixture connects to electrical wires and fixed to the ceiling.

Conclusion

There is nothing complicated in facing the ceiling with panels:

1. the amount of required materials is calculated;
2. everything necessary for the work is purchased: materials, fixtures and tools;