Installation of a two-level false ceiling made of plasterboard. Two-level plasterboard ceiling: second-level assembly photo

Drywall has been one of the most sought-after materials for a long time. Make him completely simple designs requiring elementary assembly, as well as complex suspension systems, the shape of which can be the most bizarre.

Drywall is two layers, gypsum and cardboard. It is an environmentally friendly and safe material for human health. You can mount the plasterboard ceiling structure yourself, with the help of at least one partner.

Before examining the device plasterboard ceiling, go through a few important points. Once again, make sure that you are not considering other options for ceiling structures.

What you need to pay attention to:

• Room height. The design of two levels will reduce it. And if you are the owner of an apartment with low ceilings, even 5-10 cm is a significant loss. In this case, a different finish is recommended.
• accents. This means that the design of the ceiling must also be practical, that is, the lamps that are built into the lower level can be room zonators.
• Humidity in the room. Gypsum board constructions the best way for the bathroom, sheet deformation is more than likely. Will have to do repairs.
• The complexity of the design. Make diagrams, drawings, use online calculation services, indicate dimensions there, etc. But if you want to do something very complex, albeit on two levels, but original look(and not a simple rectangular one) you can’t cope on your own.

Another important point – step-by-step instruction in the head, and better - in the hands. So that the work "does not stand in the middle of the road."

Two-level plasterboard ceiling (video)

How to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with your own hands correctly

Even experts disagree on which way to carry out installation more correctly.

It is customary to distinguish two methods:

• First. In this case, work starts with the installation of the first frame, and then the second tier is suspended from it. This is true if the area of ​​the second level is small - after all, the weight of the second frame will fall on the drywall sheets of the first level.
• Second. This method involves first collecting the frame of the second level, this design is more complex.

The first option makes sense to consider, since it is resorted to more often, it is more indicative for knowledge about installation.

All work takes place in five stages:

• Preparation of the ceiling surface;
• Marking the ceiling under the frame for plasterboard;
• Frame installation - 1st level;
• Frame installation - 2nd level;
• Finishing the ceiling with plasterboard sheets.

Remove all loose plaster, do not leave it - endanger it.

Construction of a two-level plasterboard ceiling: marking and further course of events

First you must measure the height of the corners in the room. Then define a corner with a lower height. This is the starting point for marking so that the horizontal structure is even.

Do the markup. On the walls for profiles, designate straight line. Place points on the ceiling for direct suspension. Don't use too much markup, it will only confuse you.

What to do if different in the room are not only angles, but also lengths opposite walls. Then, first of all, make the leveled parts horizontally. Then draw a clear pattern on the ceiling, and align the structure along the edges. So you visually center the ceiling.

Frame 2-level plasterboard ceiling with lighting: 1st level

Installation begins with the installation of UD profiles. These are guides that are mounted on the wall. The fastening step along the perimeter of the structure is 600 mm. They are also mounted on the ceiling. If it is necessary to create rounded elements, draw a picture on the wall, and fasten the guides according to this picture. Do not forget to make notches on the profile.

• Attach a direct suspension to the points marked on the ceiling. The fastening interval will be 60 cm. By the way, if you are a happy owner of an ideal ceiling surface, it makes no sense to do the first level - immediately proceed to the second.
• A CD-profile is fixed on a direct suspension. For the rigidity of the frame, fasteners such as crabs are used.
• It remains to sew up the frame with drywall sheets.

Where the sheet was cut, a chamfer is needed. With a knife, cut off part of the material from the plasterboard.

Two-level plasterboard ceiling: step by step instructions, second level

The scheme is familiar - draw lines on the wall under the guide profiles. Draw on the ceiling. Detailed scheme on the ceiling always simplifies installation. Yes, and having applied the scheme to the ceiling, you will see how the final result will look like, that is, you can adjust the scheme.

• Attach a metal profile to the wall and ceiling.
• After that, the frame must be lowered to the required length. To do this, the CD-profile is cut to the length you want to lower the frame.
• On one side of these pieces, the so-called tongues are cut out. The side parts of the profile are cut off. So it's easier to install.
• The cut pieces are inserted into the guide profile, already fixed to the ceiling. Insert it straight side up.
• Fix the pieces with a "flea". The step between the segments is 60 cm. The interval between the curved segments is 30 cm.
• A UD profile is “put on” on the hanging pieces, and is also fixed with a “flea”. Get the sidewall of the frame.
• The CD profile is cut to a length that is equal to the distance from the side of the frame to the UD profile, which is located on the wall. Fixed on both sides with "fleas".

It turned out a finished metal frame, after which it is sheathed with drywall and proceed to finishing.

Level ceilings are both two and three levels, structures that require effort and time. Such a double ceiling looks great in the hall, as well as in a studio apartment where zoning is needed. Often they make plasterboard constructions in the attic.

Installing a two-level plasterboard ceiling (video)

Drywall is better than PVC structures in terms of naturalness, because it consists of natural gypsum and cardboard. Simplify the work of video tips that allow you to perform the installation yourself, without the involvement of specialists.

Design of a two-level plasterboard ceiling (interior photo)

Impossible to imagine modern design rooms without original lines and shapes. And two-level plasterboard ceilings look especially advantageous, which are able to highlight individual zones in the room or figuratively separate its functional parts. Today, in construction, gypsum boards are the most common material that allows you to change and improve the premises. With it, you can create a variety of shapes, making your apartment refined and unique.

But the main advantage of two-level plasterboard ceilings is that all work can be done independently. This will save significant money and get aesthetic pleasure from the work done.

So, to begin with, you will need, first of all, a design project. It is an exact copy of the ceiling on a reduced scale, which is transferred to paper. The plan not only depicts appearance structures, but also mark the placement of lamps.

Necessary materials and tools

To work on creating a two-level ceiling, you will need tools, many of which may already be in your home arsenal:

• Screwdriver;
• Scissors for metal;
• Knife for drywall;
• Putty knife;
• Hammer;
• Drill;
• Building level;
• Roulette and pencil.

Then you need to take care of the availability of all materials. We suggest using the consumption table, which is calculated for 1 sq. m. You just have to multiply the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room by the consumption below. Keep in mind that two-level ceilings can be completely different forms, so the final consumption may vary slightly up or down.

Name	Consumption
Profile PP 60x27	2.9 running m.
Profile PN 28x27
Sealing tape 30 mm	Length corresponds to the perimeter
Single-level connector for profiles PP 60x27	1.7 pcs
Profile extension PP 60x27	0.2 pcs
Anchor hanger with clamp for profiles PP 60x27	0.7 pcs
Suspension rod	0.7 pcs
Anchor dowel	0.7 pcs
Dowel for mounting profiles PN 28x27	3 pcs
Screw TN 25	23 pcs
Reinforcing tape	1.2 running m

Installation of the first level of a two-tier ceiling

Complex multi-level designs always attract attention. They are the decoration of the room. Even a laconic interior will acquire sophistication if, in the process of developing a design project, the choice falls on bunk ceilings. But work on their creation can be carried out in two ways:

1. The first level of a complex structure is the existing ceiling.
2. To create the first level, drywall is used.

If the room already has a flat ceiling, and you just want to decorate it with an original design, then you will need to create a second-level box, and paint the main surface in desired color. But in most cases, each level of a two-level ceiling is made of drywall.

First of all, 10 cm recede from the lowest point of the ceiling and make a mark on the wall. Then, using a hydraulic level, a flat horizontal line is drawn along all the walls of the room. In its place, a guide profile (UD) is attached using dowels with a diameter of 6 mm. Their length can be 40-60 mm. Then a grid is applied, which is necessary to determine the attachment points of the suspensions. Making it is easy enough. It is only necessary to draw longitudinal lines in increments of 50-70 cm (“c” in the figure). And then apply transverse at a distance of 60 cm (“a” in the figure) from each other. In places where they intersect, hangers are installed on anchor dowels. Plastic dowels are not suitable when working with two-level plasterboard ceilings.

Then, a carrier profile (CD) is attached to the hangers, the ends of which are inserted into the guide. It is necessary to use a level so that the profile is fixed evenly. At this stage, the creation of the frame of the first level of a two-level plasterboard ceiling is completed.

Creating a Second Level Wireframe

The shape of the second level box can be varied. It all depends on your imagination. You can not limit yourself, because GKL allow you to create curved and round lines. Make by finished design two-level ceiling from drywall with your own hands is easy, the main thing to remember is that success depends on a precisely drawn project.

To mount the second level, you will need to retreat 10 cm again, but already from the existing horizontal line on the wall, on which the first level guide profile was fixed. If the box of the second level will encircle the room along the perimeter, then the lines must be applied to all walls. If you plan to make a second level of drywall bunk ceiling along one wall, then draw a line along the corresponding wall only.

The guide profile (UD) is attached along the line on the wall and along the inner border of the second level. Then the CD profile is cut into segments, which should be 1.5 cm less than the distance from the profile on the ceiling to the bottom line on the wall. When cutting the profile, leave a small “lip” on one side, which will be required to fasten the profile. Now these segments are screwed to the guide profile on the ceiling every 50 cm, and the UD profile is mounted to the “lip” with sharp edges against the wall. Now you need to cut the CD profile to the desired length in order to insert it into the second level guides of the two-level ceiling of drywall sheets and fix it. If the length of the CD profile is more than 50 cm, then it will need to be fixed with an additional suspension.

The above scheme of work is suitable in cases where you want to learn how to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with straight lines. But often the design project includes curved and smooth lines, which everyone can do. To do this, it is necessary to cut two adjacent walls of the guide profile into segments. Each incised segment in this case must be attached to the ceiling. The rest of the scheme of work will be the same.

Laying wiring for lighting in a two-level ceiling

After installing the frame, you need to make sure that the wiring for lighting is done. Laying of wires is carried out before insulation and soundproofing, if necessary. The design project must contain the exact placement of fixtures so that it is possible to drill even before fixing the plasterboard required holes for mounting lamps. To make a two-level ceiling with your own hands and accurately calculate the number of fixtures, you need to calculate the nominal voltage for the system.

In most cases, mixed lighting is used indoors, which includes a chandelier and many spotlights. Recently they have been supplemented LED strips. small LED lights Great for spot lighting. They possess low power and do not heat up. They are mounted at the rate of 2-4 pieces per square meter ceiling.

At this stage, you already know how to make a two-level ceiling in your house, but wiring can be difficult. It is better to immediately turn to specialists who will not only conduct the necessary wires, but also connect the lamps. After all, the mistake made after fixing the GKL will no longer be possible to correct.

Facing the frame with plasterboard sheets

Work on the sheathing of the GKL frame begins from the first level. Pre-on the walls where drywall sheet will adjoin the surface, glue the sealing tape, the excess of which is cut off after completion of all work. From the sheets, which, with their side, will adjoin the walls, the longitudinal edge is cut off. This will facilitate the puttying process. Installation of a two-level ceiling begins with fixing drywall. It is then screwed to the frame using TN self-tapping screws. The pitch between the screws should be 15 cm. Make sure that adjacent sheets are staggered with an offset of at least one carrier profile pitch.

Before sheathing the second level, it is necessary to cut out the desired form of plasterboard for fastening. To do this, use a special knife for cutting. They are carried out several times along the line planned in advance, after which the sheet easily breaks off. To close the end part of the second level, a GKL strip of the required width is cut out and attached to the frame.

If the bending radius is small, then the strip can be bent dry. If in doubt, on the side of the strip that will be outside, holes are made with a spiked roller, which are wetted with water using a sponge roller until the water is no longer absorbed. This will make the GKL strip elastic. Now it needs to be bent under the desired radius and allowed to dry. Then make the installation. Thus, we told you in detail how to make a two-level plasterboard ceiling with lighting around the entire perimeter and more with your own hands.

With the help of plasterboard suspended ceilings, you can create any, even the most complex and unusual designs. They will not only help divide the premises into separate zones, beat spotlights, but also hide bulky beams, too large height differences, wiring, etc. Moreover, the creation of two-level ceilings is quite a feasible task for anyone who knows how to use a construction tool.

Surface preparation

Before starting installation in the room, you must complete all repair work. If the ceiling is completely hidden under the suspended structure, it does not need to be leveled. However, for ensuring the reliability of fasteners should be widened and cracks that are too large should be repaired. Large layers of crumbling plaster are removed. To ensure free access to the ceiling, it is advisable to remove furniture from the room or at least move it so that it does not interfere with installation.

Large cracks are covered with cement mortar

Materials and tools

To create a multi-level ceiling you will need:
drywall;
load-bearing ceiling profile CD (PP) to create the base of the frame, it will take on the bulk of the load; to protect against sagging of the structure, it is attached along the entire length of the sheets in increments of 40-50 mm;
ceiling guide profile UD (PNP): mounted on walls;
straight suspensions (spacers) and with a clamp for fastening to the ceiling; one- and two-level connectors, extension cords, etc.;
grinder for profile cutting;
perforator;
self-tapping screws (for fastening to wooden base) or anchor metal dowels for fixing to concrete;
small self-tapping screws for metal ("bugs") for the profile;
screwdriver;
construction knife or hacksaw for cutting drywall;
building level;
roulette;
needle roller for leveling drywall bends;
electric drill;
soundproofing materials (if necessary);
putty, primer, reinforcing mesh;
putty knife;
acrylic paint or any other finishing material;
ladder.

UD and CD profiles

To create the simplest structures, it is sufficient to use direct suspensions (during their installation, excess length is bent or cut off)

Connector for profile "crab"

Two-level suspension

Sliding hanger with clamp and rod (used to create suspended complex structures in rooms with very high ceilings)

Suspended ceiling layout

To begin with, the location of the upper slats is determined. To do this, the distance required for laying communications recedes from the edge of the ceiling. If they are not there, with perfectly even ceilings, an indent of 5-8 cm is sufficient. To install spotlights, another 3-4 cm is added to this value. For multi-level structures, marking is carried out for each level, while each line is indented from 5 to 15 cm.

Along the perimeter of the walls using a bubble or laser level is carried out horizontal line. It should be noted that the slightest deviations or inaccuracies made during the marking will be emphasized by the play of light and shadows of spotlights.

Ceiling markings

For markup curved structures a kind of profile is made from a profile compass in which two holes are drilled. With the help of the first hole, it will be mounted on the ceiling. A pencil is inserted into the second, with which the desired circle or part of the arc will be drawn on the ceiling. Auxiliary contours are outlined in a different color or with a less bold line.

Scheme of a two-level ceiling

Marking is done on the ceiling and mounted wiring for fixtures. In the future, a cut of the required diameter will be made for them in drywall, and the lamps will be fastened using their own latches with springs.

Fixing fixtures

Profile mounting

The algorithm of work is quite simple. To prevent the formation of cracks in the corners, a damper is glued along the walls. separating tape from expanded polyethylene. Attached to the ceiling with dowels direct hangers and then screwed onto them. profiles. And the first along the walls are laid guides ceiling profiles UD, and then with the help of a level with a step of 40-50 mm parallel to each other bearing CD. Connection points should be reinforced crabs».

Profile installation scheme

Assembly of a single-level ceiling

For the construction of the second and next levels of the ceiling, the second is attached to the first row of profiles.

Frame of the second level from the profile

Curved profile

To get structures complex shape can be purchased arched profile, already having files for uniform bending or make it yourself.

Advice. To bend a conventional profile, cuts are made in it every 5-15 cm (the larger the bending radius, the more often cuts should be made).

Profile cutting

Installing a Profile for Curved Structures

How to cut drywall?

Sheet marking is recommended to be done with a pencil (traces of a marker or pen are very difficult to hide even under a layer of putty). To obtain an even cut, a metal ruler is superimposed on the sheet, and then an incision is made along it. To cut through not only upper layer sheet, but also the core of gypsum, should be drawn along the intended line several more times.

Cutting drywall sheets

Then a sheet of drywall should be placed on the edge and knocked on it with opposite side from the cut. The gypsum core will finally break off. Next, the cardboard is cut from the second side of the sheet, and the cut points are aligned and are cleared.

Advice. For the convenience of puttying, the edges of the drywall are chamfered at an angle of 22 ° somewhere in 2/3 of the sheet thickness with a mounting knife.

Drywall installation

Drywall sheets are attached to bearing profile using small self-tapping screws ("bugs") with a pitch of 170 mm. The distance from the edge of the sheet is from 15 mm. In this case, the screw heads are recessed into the base of the sheet by 1 mm. In an arc, drywall strips do not lie flat enough, so they should be moistened and laid with needle roller. In this case, you should use not the usual, but thinner restoration drywall 8 mm thick.

Advice. To obtain an even bend, the sheet must be cut not along, but across.

Drywall Bending Tools

For fixing spotlights in drywall, holes are made using an electric drill. The light sources will be held by their own clips.

Holes for fixtures

All joints of drywall sheets, as well as holes from self-tapping screws, are treated with a primer, and then twice putty. First, a layer of putty is applied reinforcing tape and pressed in with a spatula. After the first layer has dried, the joints are puttied again and rubbed.

Mounting scheme false ceiling

The beautiful interior of the house consists not only of beautiful things, but also of the light range, which emphasizes the subtleties of the interior, makes the room cozy and inviting for relaxation. Two-level plasterboard illuminated ceilings create the correct composition of rays, sometimes dividing the room into recreation and work areas.

Design and decoration of a two-level ceiling with neon lighting

1. This design hides all the "undulations" that are very difficult to align without GKL.
2. Before you do, you do not need to perfectly align the base.
3. Hiding a lot of wires and ventilation.
4. With help , suspended structure from drywall looks rich, unusual.
5. At self-assembly there are significant savings Money(the price of the work of the masters is 350 rubles per square meter), and pride in the “beauty” made by oneself.

When installing, pay attention to the following:

• Different types of light emitters are installed in zones, this will dissolve the overall brightness, which is often striking;
  The option of placing light emitters on a two-level ceiling
• drawn on paper separately, before starting the design:
  • Kitchen - the countertop and stove stand out brightly, the dining table is highlighted separately;
  • Bedroom - with the help of light, a part at the head is highlighted, as well as a mirror;
  • Living room - you can highlight the area in which you stand with rays indoor flowers, a sofa for rest;
  • Children's - looks great "Starry sky";
• When combined different types backlight, a separate switch must be connected to each node.

Types of backlight

If the owner decided to repair, then before proceeding with the installation, you need to study design work on the picture. Backlight selection:




Illuminated plasterboard ceiling design

There are open and closed lights. Open - in plain sight. directly to ready product. Closed - a specially created niche in which the device is hidden so that only the emitted beam remains in sight.

Drawings, sketches

After selecting a product designer photo, you can start drawings and diagrams.

Drawing with dimensions and names of elements for installing a two-level plasterboard ceiling When drawing up a drawing, the dimensions of the room are taken into account. If the room is small, then do not pile up. To begin with, a drawing is applied where the light sources are located. After that, the entire base floor is measured, the height of the walls, the indentations along the walls (the height of the tiers).

All received figures are entered into the drawing plan. All data are drawn with actual dimensions. Circles and semicircles are drawn with a radius.

Sometimes the drawing does not fit, some individual parts are drawn on another paper with detailed dimensions (for example, curvilinear shapes). All attachment points and wiring must be marked on the drawing.

Training

Before applying all the details of the drawing to the base coat, it must be prepared for this.

Dimensional drawing of a two-level ceiling structure

After the preparation is completed, the next step is to transfer the drawing to the base.
Straight lines that are drawn on the walls, for guides, must be clearly even. For this, a level is used. You can use a stretched thread.


They will be even and not deviate from the intended points in different corners. After determining the center (this cannot be determined by the chandelier, it hangs not in the center), you can proceed to the curvilinear elements. It can be ovals, circles, semicircles, waves and chaotic wavy shapes. Such figures are best drawn with a homemade compass. Wiring definition. It is necessary to put dots or crosses where the diode will be fixed. Also define fasteners with points. When applying dots, it is required to observe the exact distance at which the repetition takes place (for example, every 30 cm).

Material and tool

Everyone must be in the same place. Set of tools:

Scheme of marking and fixing profiles to the ceiling

1. You will need a meter or tape measure, as well as a pencil.
2. Should be long.
3. You will need a puncher.
4. Screwdriver Set. Both flat and shaped screwdrivers different lengths.
5. with blade set. A clerical one may come up, but it is not so reliable.
6. Scissors for cutting metal.
7. needed for grinding the edges of the sheet.
8. An angle will be needed to mount parts at an angle of 90 degrees.
9. Thread for precision.
10. Crowns for making holes for lights.
11. A set of spatulas.

Necessary materials:

Installation instructions for a two-level plasterboard ceiling

In the design of frames for a two-tier ceiling, there are design methods.

1. The first method of the device: the metal product is completely sheathed with drywall, and markings for the second tier are applied to this plane.
2. The second way is more complicated and confusing, but economical. The crate is created without sheathing.

For a better understanding of how to work when creating metal crate the first option will be considered. The video shows in detail step by step process installation of a two-level plasterboard ceiling with lighting.

Installation of the frame of the first level

In the production of the first level, there are methods by which the crate is mounted. The first option is simpler - transverse:

1. Fastening the NP to the wall, according to the intended markings. Fasteners are installed every 50 cm.
2. Hangers are attached to the marked crosses. The distance between them is 50 cm.
3. PP is attached to them with small self-tapping screws. Ceiling profile connects to the rail on the wall.
4. For evenness of the surface, a nylon thread is pulled, sagging PPs are regulated by suspensions. Their ends are bent, and the PP is pulled up.
5. The thread should be stretched along the NP on the wall. If the tips of the suspensions look out, they need to be unbent in different directions.

After the first tier is created, the laying of wires begins. They must be placed in a corrugation for insulation.


Wires should not come into contact with metal, in order to avoid short circuit and fire. At each point of the proposed electrical appliance, the wire is set to 15 cm. The wiring is led out to the switch point at one end, and to the electrical box - the other end.

The second option is to install a cell frame

The cellular frame is a kind of grid, which is installed as follows:

In this way cells are formed. If the PP sags, it is pulled up with suspensions. Jumpers are made of PP by cutting. One jumper 60 cm. Crabs are attached to the rest of the parts with small self-tapping screws. In some cases, before attaching the profiles, a sealant is glued to the “back”.

Installing the second level frame

If there is a complete sheathing of the base, points and dimensions from the drawing are applied to the plane. There may also be wiring elements. The second tier is mounted on the principle of the first. The main thing is to observe accuracy and gradualness.

An example of a second-level mounted frame When creating curved shapes, do not forget about . For this details metal product are set 10 cm outside the metal structure.

Installation of ceiling lighting around the perimeter with step-by-step instructions

When installing electrical appliances, you must follow the instructions for use.
Each device has its own nuances during assembly and use. It is necessary to pay attention to Volts and Amps. If required, a stabilizer or electricity converter is installed.

LEDs

They are mounted before sheathing in a niche made for them. There are certain rules:

1. Before gluing the LED, it is checked for functionality.
2. To cut the tape, you need to find the places marked for this.
3. A soldering iron is used to connect the pieces of the tape.
4. There is a block in the LED assembly. The first end of the block is connected to the main wiring, the second - to the tape.
5. Red wire "+". Polarity respect.
6. Do not glue LEDs to metal.

Optical fiber

This order:

Neon

Drywall fixing

After the end of the production of the crate, there is a sheathing gypsum material. Easy to cut material construction knife is a soft material. When cutting a figured part, accuracy is observed. If you need to bend a drywall figure, then you need to make cuts along the edges,. The second option is the wet method - passing over the figure cut out of the sheet with a needle roller, wet the part, put it in a special form and leave for 10 hours. Fasteners for sheets are installed with a certain distance. Self-tapping screws are a little "recessed" into the drywall coating so that the "hats" do not stick out above the plane.