Installation of the construction of a two-level plywood stretch ceiling. Do-it-yourself two-level stretch ceiling

The original way of interior design in the apartment will be a two-level ceiling with the arrangement of a suspended or tension structure. This option is perfect for the living room and bedroom. Decorative design can be complemented by a unique lighting system, so that the appearance of the room will become exquisite.

Design features and advantages

By choosing a two-level design for arranging the ceiling in your room, be prepared to incur additional financial costs.

Therefore, decide in advance which installation method and ceiling design will be preferable for you:

The upper level can serve as a previously equipped ceiling plane. Drywall will be attached only to the hotel areas, which allows you to visually zone the room. You can also mount boxes around the perimeter, but the main condition will be a flat and smooth surface of the upper level.

Drywall is placed on one tier, and on the second - a tension system. This can be realized if the surface finish is excessively expensive.

The choice of installation option remains with the owner of the apartment. It is necessary to take into account the state of repair, the layout of the premises, and your own financial capabilities.

Among the advantages of two-level technologies are:

• concealment of rough finish defects;
• the ability to cover communications;
• zoning of the premises;
• visual control of the space in the room;
• creating an original design using various lighting methods.

Ceiling construction with plasterboard box

A fairly common way to decorate the interior of rooms is the arrangement of a plasterboard ceiling.

You can solve this problem yourself, although you will have to work hard, following our instructions.

Surface preparation and marking

At the very beginning, you need to free the room from furniture and other things. The floor should be covered with foil. The surface to be treated is cleaned of the old coating.

If necessary, gaps and cracks should be repaired, primed and plastered. Finishing will be superfluous if you plan to cover the entire ceiling with drywall.

After that, you can start marking. Pre-measure the height of the corners and identify the lowest of them. To ensure a smooth horizontal structure, you should focus on this particular angle.

As a markup, you can draw a straight line on the wall used for mounting profiles. Marking with dots will help you navigate the straight suspension.

If the length of the opposite sides is different, then it is necessary to align horizontally and then make the necessary markings. It is determined by the project you have chosen.

Installation of the frame of the first tier

UD guide profiles are fastened at intervals of 600 mm around the perimeter. For the ceiling, a step of 400 mm is required.

If rounded solutions are assumed, then in such areas on the surface of the profile it is necessary to make notches with an interval of 25 mm, successively making bends taking into account the desired radius.

Suspensions of a direct type are mounted on pre-planned points on the ceiling. A step of 600 mm must be observed. After that, the ends should be bent and carefully cut.

Ceiling-type CD-profiles are mounted on these suspensions. Where a second level of construction is planned, it is advisable to install "crabs" in advance.

At this stage, you can take care of heat and sound insulation. To do this, a heater is laid in the interprofile recesses and fixed with the “tails” of the suspensions.

Then the frame of the first level is sewn up with drywall. In places where the modules are cut, it is advisable to remove a part of the material with a knife, forming a chamfer. This is necessary for greater strength of the seams.

Installation of the second tier

In the process of arranging ceilings with your own hands, you must carefully consider the installation of profiles for the second level. A contour for the UD profile is drawn on the wall.

The drawing according to the project must be applied to the surface. The presence of such markup makes it possible to visually evaluate the future design. According to the markup, a frame from the profile is attached. If necessary, the desired places are rounded off.

To lower the frame under the tier, you must:

• cut the CD profile to the length required to lower the frame;
• cut tongues (side parts) on one side of the cuts, which facilitates installation;
• insert the cuts with a flat side into the UD profile fixed to the ceiling;
• using the “flea” design, fix the cuts in increments of 500-600 mm;
• if it is necessary to fix the curved pieces of the CD-profile, then the step should be reduced to 200-300 mm;
• put a UD-profile on the installed cuts, followed by a strong fastening.

After the sidewall is ready, you need to cut off part of the CD profile. The length should be taken equal to the gap between the sidewall and the profile on the wall. Then they are firmly fixed on both sides. The frame will be completely ready.

Drywall fixing

To fix drywall sheets on the constructed frame, you must use the run-up. The first row starts with a full size sheet, which is mounted on profiles.

The second row also begins with a solid canvas, but from the opposite edge. The mounting technology can be seen in the photo of two-level ceilings.

To make figured parts, you must first design a template from cardboard. And then on it and cut the blanks. If the sidewalls are bent vertically, then it is necessary to mold by rolling with a spiked roller.

Then the surface is sprayed with water, and when the gypsum craton is saturated (after about an hour), an incision is made on the convex plane of the bend. The workpiece is placed on the edge, the desired bend is formed, fixed by the load and left to dry.

If you are creating illuminated ceilings, then you need to check all wiring and communications.

Drywall fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws with a pitch of 150-200 mm. To improve the quality of the future finish, the caps of the self-tapping screws must be deepened.

If at the same time the canvas is pressed through, then the mount is redone, moving away from the previous place by 40-50 mm. From the opposite edge, another sheet is fastened.

Remember, first you need to fix the upper level, then go to the side parts, and at the end - the decor of the lower part.

After that, you can start finishing. First, the surface must be primed. After drying at the joints, a sickle tape should be glued, the seams and the places where the self-tapping screws are deepened are puttied.

It is advisable to fix the outer corners with corners. It is desirable to use a metal corner for even contours, but curved surfaces must be fixed with plastic ones. Corners can also be fixed by pressing into a layer of previously applied plaster.

Sheets of fiberglass are attached to the PVA glue, and a finishing putty with a layer of 15 mm is laid on top. The surface is then sanded and primed. In conclusion, it is necessary to carry out the finishing and fix the lighting devices.

Features of the arrangement of the tension structure

Two-level stretch ceilings also look great in the living room or bedroom. In this case, the perimeter of the room will be sheathed with gypsum craton, and there will be a stretch fabric in its center.

The installation process is as follows:

• Marking and installation of drywall boxes around the perimeter.
• At a given height, a profile is attached, which will be the basis for fixing the canvas.
• Heating the room and heating the canvas with a heat gun.
• Web tension between profiles. First, diagonally opposite corners are attached. Then the other two in turn.
• Along the perimeter, the canvas is stretched in turn along opposite edges - first one side, and then the second, lying opposite. Then the third and fourth.
• Installation of lighting points and decorative elements.

Two-level ceiling structures are a fairly popular way to give the interior of rooms an original and attractive look.

However, the installation process is quite laborious. First you need to carefully work out the project, prepare the base, fix the frame, and only then proceed with the installation of the main sheet or drywall sheets.

Photo of two-level ceilings

Do you want to learn how to install such complex ceilings as in the starting photo?

Then you've come to the right place! Today we will take a closer look at how the installation of stretch ceilings is carried out in two levels.

This material is useful, first of all, to novice craftsmen who have not yet carried out such work, but they do not want to miss a good client. And it is right!

You always need to strive for more, and not at the expense of your "I", which can often be found at different construction sites, when the masters "in words", in fact, cannot do what is required of them, but by systematically developing their skills and abilities, becoming true professionals. A competent approach to business is the key to your success!

Training

Let's go in order, and as usual with, work begins with the installation of the frame, but first let's make a small digression to understand what we need to do in the end, and what materials and tools are needed for this.

Tools and materials

If you have previously stretched single-level ceilings, then it means that you already have a tool, but it will not be superfluous to repeat.

So:

As with almost any type of installation work, you will also need:

• Pencil;
• Yardstick;
• Joiner's square;
• markers;
• Dyeing thread;
• Stationery knife;
• Building level.

Perhaps we forgot to mention some little things, but when describing the installation, they will definitely come up, so read on.

Now we list the main material, accessories and consumables, without which you can not do:

• The ceiling itself, where without it - after the frame is mounted, the film will stretch over it.

• Bearing wall frame - no matter what profile it is, or what material it is made of (PVC or aluminum), we are now interested in its functional purpose. This baguette is screwed along the walls, forming the basis for fixing the canvas.

• We will need plywood to form the base of the lower levels. If a straight box is to be installed, then its thickness should be at least 15 mm, but if we are talking about curved structures, then we can take 4-5 mm for home-made manufacturing of the base for subsequent bending and layer-by-layer strengthening, but this option is an extreme case, which we will discuss in detail below.

• Powerful and even corners made of galvanized steel - with their help, a plywood or plastic base is fastened to the supporting floor.

• The divider is located in the inner corners of multi-level structures, allowing you to connect different canvases in one line. It is mounted on plywood, if desired, it can be replaced with a universal profile along with a wall profile.
• The chipper is mounted along the lower edge of the plywood and forms the front edge of the outer corner of the lower level of the structure. In other words, the web tension passes through it.

• Mouthpiece - a plastic nozzle that is worn over the lower edge of the fender to protect the blade from contact with possible burrs on a metal or cut plastic profile, and also to make the bend at the corner smoother and more beautiful.

Of the consumables, you will need: plastic dowels, wood screws of the appropriate length, reinforced tape, thermal rings and glue for them (for example, Cosmofen), metal straight hangers and, of course, a good mood - do not waste it!!!

Frame installation

Well, we have learned, without which it makes no sense to start work. Now let's talk about everything in more detail.

markup

Let's start with a simpler option, when it is supposed to make a straight box.

First, we need to define the boundaries of the future design. We will need a laser level, a pencil and a tape measure.

• First of all, we negotiate with the customer the dimensions of the future design and draw up a small drawing on paper - better on a scale.
• We mark the ceiling - for this we set aside a distance from the wall along the tape measure, 2 centimeters less than the agreed one. This is done in order to take into account the thickness of the bumper and separator. If marking is carried out for a curved structure, we make a margin of 3 centimeters in order to also take into account the thickness of the plastic.

• Next, along the drawn marks, with the help of a coloring thread, we beat off straight lines, forming a contour along which we will mount our frame.

• Next, the lower boundary of the ceiling is determined. If, according to the project, the smallest distance to the floor is clearly defined, then first you need to find the lowest point on the floor - most often this is one of the corners in the room.
• We install a laser axis builder, and along the lines drawn by it we put down marks in the corners of the room.
• We measure the distance from them to the ceiling, finding the smallest value that needs to be compared with the design height. If it is less, then on the tape measure we put the difference obtained down from the marks.
• If you want to check the entire surface of the ceiling, for example, you have a strict reference to height or wiring, then fixing the level under the ceiling, methodically we pass along the entire ceiling, applying a tape measure - the laser will show you all the differences, intersecting with it.

• After these simple manipulations, we draw lines with a coloring thread - we stretch it and beat it off, not forgetting to fill the dye into the body of the device before unwinding.

With the marking of curved structures, everything is a little more complicated. They can be divided into two types: regular and irregular.

The former include figures that can be drawn with a compass, for example, a pattern consisting of circles or an ellipse. The latter can have an arbitrary shape with small waves and non-standard bends.

How long should the compasses be, you ask. Yes, in fact, it does not matter, we will assemble it ourselves for specific needs. To do this, you will need an aluminum profile (although any other metal profile will do), a sharpened pencil, a couple of self-tapping screws and one dowel-screw.

• We take a profile and drill a hole in it equal to the diameter of a simple pencil. Then we install the pencil itself in it.
• Having departed from this hole the required distance (radius), we drill a second hole, which will correspond to the central axis of the circle.

Advice! If it suddenly turns out that the length of one profile is not enough, then connect two pieces in length with self-tapping screws.

• We drill a hole in the ceiling in the center of the future circle and fasten the profile to it through a dowel-screw.

The compass is ready - with its help you can draw a perfectly even circle.

If necessary, apply a non-standard pattern to the ceiling, it is most convenient to proceed as follows:

• For more accurate orientation, it is worth initially marking not the ceiling, but the floor.
• At the control points, we stick pieces of masking tape, and mark them with a pencil. If necessary, the adhesive tape can be easily removed or moved.
• The more points you apply, the more accurate the contour you will get.

• Next, we take a laser level and set it to the center of the cross, one by one, along all the previously drawn points. As you might guess, the tool will project a second cross of the same kind on the ceiling, in the center of which we make a mark.
• If you have a simple level that cannot build a cross, then it's okay - set it perpendicular to the wall and measure the distance from the bottom point to the wall, after which we put it aside already at the top along the laser line.

• Next, we take a wall-mounted plastic baguette and bend it along the resulting control points. Make sure that there are no strong kinks and obvious violations of geometry.
• Draw a contour with a pencil along a curved profile. We do this first, slightly pressing on the pencil to be able to make adjustments.

• Check the accuracy of the line, making changes if necessary, and make the final line stroke thicker.

This completes the markup, and you can move on.

Frame assembly

Installing a straight frame is the easiest, so let's start with it.

• After all the markup has been carried out, it is possible to accurately determine the height of the plywood blanks, from which the frame is, in fact, assembled. It is important to remember two points here: the lower edge of the plywood during installation should not reach the level of the box by 0.5 centimeters; plywood should not rest against the ceiling.
• If you have the opportunity to make all the calculations in one day, then you can deliver the plywood to the site already sawn. Similar services are provided by large construction centers upon purchase, for example, Leroy Merlin. If this is not possible, or the sellers in the stores in your city have their hair on end from such questions, then you will have to use a jigsaw, sawing everything on your own.

• When determining the width of plywood, it is worth considering many nuances, some of which we have already named. The base ceiling very often has height differences at the joints of reinforced concrete slabs or wiring is stretched along it.
• Some of this can be taken into account immediately when sawing, making different heights of plywood, but much more convenient to bring, as they say, in place, for example, cutting off a corner of plywood resting on a hillock or making a recess for an electric cable.

Let's start the installation:

• We put a piece of plywood along the line on the ceiling.
• We apply a steel corner from the edge, setting it so that the next workpiece can be screwed to it. At the same time, it must be remembered that the distance from the edge of the frame to the wall should be 3 centimeters, which is required for the further installation of the wall profile and corners.
• We make a mark with a marker or pencil on the ceiling.

• Next, we drill into the ceiling and fasten the corner to the dowel, screwing several self-tapping screws into it at once for greater strength. Add a couple more dowels, drilling straight through the perforations.
• We add several corners to the fixed sheet in the center so that the step between them is 70-80 centimeters - with the current thickness of the plywood sheet, this is more than enough.
• We fasten to the corners with wood screws, simultaneously adjusting the position of the edge of the frame according to the marking and exposing it vertically, for which plastic linings of different thicknesses are made in the right places. The lower edge is adjusted according to the laser level, previously set half a centimeter above the initial level.

At this stage, it is worth paying special attention to the evenness of the frame, since the appearance of the finished ceiling will entirely depend on this. If necessary, increase the number of corners - ideally, the front wall of the plywood should be flush with the vertical level.

In conclusion, check the reliability of the frame for loosening and strengthen the structure with all kinds of stops and braces.

We turn to the analysis of the installation of a curved frame. As you remember, we wrote earlier that its marking requires an indent of not 2, but 3 centimeters. Now you will understand why.

• For mounting the curved frame, it is best to use sheet foam plastic, which can be purchased at hardware stores, from the manufacturer, or from some stretch ceiling dealers. Its thickness is 8-10 millimeters - we choose based on the steepness of the radius of the figure being executed (thin is less durable, but it bends much better).

Advice! We do not recommend using MDF panels, plywood, hardboard, chipboard and other analogues for these purposes, since you will not save much on the cost of construction, but the final strength will become much worse. Moreover, bending these materials is much more difficult.

• So, in order to make the bends and turns of the box as smooth as possible, we offer this method. Instead of metal corners, which are sometimes set accurately, only by an experienced craftsman, we will use a guide made of a metal PNP profile, which is usually used for.
• Why such difficulties, you ask? But after seeing the result, it will become clear to you that we have simplified the task for ourselves, while making the contours of the levels perfectly even, which is very difficult to achieve when working with corners.
• By the way, precisely because a plastic panel is attached to the guide, which is set along the drawn lines, and such an indent was needed. As a result, we reach the required 2 centimeters.
• First, check the base for evenness. In the example shown in the photographs, the reinforced concrete slabs had a strong slope to ensure normal water runoff from the roof during rains.

• First of all, we take the profile and cut its side faces in increments of 5-6 centimeters (the smaller, the more accurately it will be possible to set it). You can use scissors for metal for cutting, but work will go much faster with a grinder.
• Next, we fasten it according to our markup, after bending the lower edges down so as not to interfere with work.

• Usually, installation is carried out directly to the concrete floor, but since we have already mentioned a significant slope, the craftsmen had to pre-level the plane using a simple plywood construction and timber of the required thickness.
• To prevent the profile from leading, we fasten it step by step, starting from one side and moving to the opposite. In this case, the fixation step should not exceed 10 centimeters. This recommendation refers to a high-quality, rigid profile, for example, from the Knauf company. Try not to take thinner options, but if there is no way out, then increase the fastening step.
• We carefully monitor that the edge of the profile follows exactly the markup, since the evenness of the finished ceiling will depend on this. If somewhere it does not become accurate, then you can knock it out with a hammer in this place and install an additional self-tapping screw.

• Next, cut the plastic. Pay special attention to the accuracy of cutting, as this determines how accurately we will catch the level when it is attached. Use rigid aluminum profile guides and a sharp mounting knife for cutting.

• After we begin to attach the plastic to the guide. This is done with the help of self-tapping screws for metal with a small step, while you need to constantly level the lower edge at the level that the same laser level will kindly outline for us. It is for this reason that you need to do this work together - one turns, the other holds, orienting along the line.
• The exact same requirements are imposed on the width of the plastic as those that we took into account when cutting plywood for a straight construction.

Additionally, fasten the joints of plastic sheets with a tire from the same profile.

Installing a Profile

Finished with the frame, proceed to the installation of all profiles.

• We start by installing a wall profile for the upper level - we already have the markings ready. We fasten it along the already prepared holes in the baguette in increments of 12-15 centimeters using dowel screws.
• On the curved frame we use self-tapping screws for metal, but longer (35 mm). If the profile is not fixed securely, due to its fragility, we reduce the fastening step by 2 times, while there is no need to pre-drill it.
• We follow the level, and the work will be accurate.
• Next, we prepare an aluminum chipper - it is stronger and will not deform as a result of web tension.

• Its lower edge is cut using a miter saw with a special aluminum disc. The distance between cuts directly depends on the bending radius.

Attention! This work can also be done with the help of a grinder, but due to the peculiarity of the metal, sagging and burrs form on the sawn edges, which can ruin the canvas, so these edges are polished with the same grinder. The process will take much longer, so if you are constantly installing multi-level ceilings, buy trimming, which will come in handy for other complex jobs.

• Next, we drill holes 4 mm in diameter on the remaining whole edge, through which we then fasten the profile to the lower edge of our frame with the help of self-tapping screws "bugs", while not forgetting to check the level.

• During the installation of the bump stop, do not forget that the mouthpiece will be worn on top, and this is another 1.5-2 millimeters in height.

Final work

The next step will be the installation of the upper level of the ceiling.

We won’t go into the details of the process too much, since everything is already very clear to any installer: we hang the canvas on clamps, warm it up with a heat gun, fill the corners first, then the centers of the sides, and finally we go through the rest of the parts evenly, while not forgetting to maintain the operating temperature of the ceiling at a given level (60ºС).

• Next, we proceed to the installation of a universal profile, which will ensure the adjunction of the lower level to the already stretched surface.

• Pay attention to the diagram above, how the universal profile is located. Its mounting platform should fit snugly against the frame, while the top point should touch the stretch ceiling. Only in this way the joint will be tight and invisible.
• In this case, too tight pressing to the upper level should not be allowed, as this can lead to deformations, and as a result, the formation of gaps between the insert and the ceiling.

• Before installation on curved sections, the profile is sawn through, similar to a chipper, but since we use plastic here, a grinder is enough.

• Next, we fix the profile under the ceiling according to the already indicated scheme. When approaching the wall, do not forget to leave a gap of 1 centimeter so that there is a place for installing a corner from the profile.
• The next step is to make and install the corners of the wall plastic profile.

• We saw down the corners at 45 degrees with the help of a trimming or a grinder, having previously performed an accurate marking using a joiner's square.
• Then we take super glue and glue the parts together - everything is simple.
• After gluing, do not forget to check the evenness of the corner with a square. After the workpiece needs to be shortened, for which we put a piece of the lip near the wall and measure the distance from the stretched level. We transfer it to the corner and cut off the excess.

• We process the sharp corners of our workpiece with sandpaper so that the film is not damaged during tension.
• We drill mounting holes in it, and the part is ready for installation.

• We install the corners in place, precisely combining the edges with the profiles and the bump stop with the dressed mouthpiece. At the end, we additionally strengthen the structure with self-tapping screws so that it does not “walk” when stretched.

The next step is to install the lip along the entire length of the lower edge of the fender. For high-quality joints, it is recommended to process the edges of this part with a grinder. After that, we put it in place, tapping it with a spatula handle or something similar for a tight connection.

Now it remains to glue all the joints and corners with reinforced tape. It is convenient to work with it, as it is quite durable and elastic.

Such a measure will protect the film from contact with possible burrs. It is important to fill the edges of the adhesive tape with a spatula into the mounting grooves of the profile so that it does not interfere during installation.

Stretching the canvas to the lower level

So, our design is ready, all the mortgages are mounted and the joints are glued. We begin to stretch the canvas.

If the ceiling is glossy, then do not forget to preheat it very well. We stop heating only when the canvas begins to tremble from the flow of hot air, like jelly.

This procedure is called glossing. If it is done with high quality, then in the end the ceiling will be much more beautiful (have a more pronounced shine), but do not forget that the quality of the canvas also affects this.

The stretching procedure itself is not difficult. Everything is as usual, the main thing is that all corners are well processed.

After the canvas is installed, it remains to mount a decorative cap. We cut the corner joints at 45 degrees - if gaps are visible there, then we coat them with white sealant or silicone.

That's all! The ceiling is ready and it can be handed over for acceptance to your favorite customer. Installation of a two-level stretch ceiling video - will help you better understand the topic. We hope the material was informative and useful for you. Best wishes!

Two-level stretch ceilings have become quite common in our time. But not everyone can install them correctly and efficiently, so this article is aimed at solving this problem. But to get beautiful and reliable ceilings, a lot of effort and patience will be required. Before buying materials, carefully review the photos and videos that help to determine the essence more clearly. The work must be done according to the technology and in the proper order, which is an indicator of the success of its implementation.

Two-level stretch ceilings have a lot of advantages, but there are also disadvantages. When choosing such a ceiling structure, it is necessary to take into account many design features of the room, including the height of the ceilings.

Advantages of two-level stretch ceilings:

The canvas can be applied to uneven surfaces without pre-treatment. This is one of the advantages of their use, because there is no need to plaster and level. You can also make the ceiling more than two levels. Which is especially true when you need to hide communications (cable from the phone and the Internet, wiring).

The possibility of applying an insulating layer, and any thickness can be used.

The costs that are required to obtain structures are quite affordable, and a flat surface is also obtained, without much effort.

The cost of work is small, everything is done quite simply.

Disadvantages of two-level stretch ceilings:

However, the canvas used is rather fragile, and it can be easily damaged by an imperceptible mechanical touch. And when trying to make amends for the damage, the former view still cannot be returned;

With self-assembly, you will need to purchase additional equipment, which will be quite expensive. Experts recommend to save effort, time and money immediately seek help from specialized companies.

It is also important to choose the right material before installing stretch two-level ceilings. The fact is that it is impossible to use the film in rooms with constantly changing temperatures, so you need to choose the appropriate material option, according to the instructions.

Installation of a two-level stretch ceiling:

Getting started, it is important to do all the necessary work related to the repair and complete surface treatment. The important points are: fixing baguettes to the walls, installing fixtures for fixtures, conducting the necessary wiring.

Tools and materials for two-level stretch ceilings:

To begin with, all the tools are prepared. Everything should be done quite compactly and according to a certain plan, which will allow you to concentrate more on work.

Required tools:

When installing the frame, the following tools are required: a puncher, all the necessary drills with a victorious solder, dowels.

For more efficient film tension, a gas heat gun is used; a gas cylinder is required for the operation of the equipment. Also use a hair dryer for construction, which has high power. However, the film may lay down unevenly due to the small heating area.

It is important to make the frame correctly, because the geometry and configuration of the plane depend on this, two levels are used for this - construction and hydraulic.

Self-tapping screws and screwdriver.

It is also important to choose a spatula with blades.

Table for convenient work.

It is important to make the connection fairly rigid, because there is a lot of stress on the frame in the ceiling. It is better to purchase plastic pacifiers, and then self-tapping screws to them, which go a few millimeters more in diameter than the holes in the plastic.

Surface preparation and frame hardening:

Before starting the installation of a two-level stretch ceiling, you must first prepare the main surface and attach the frame.

For this you need:

using a metal brush, clean the main ceiling from the old coating;

it is good to clean the surface with a chisel and a hammer from peeling, old plaster;

using a primer with deep penetration, treat the ceiling in two layers;

with the help of a marker, lines are drawn for the location of the levels, drawing them with different lines or colors of the marker to distinguish them;

we mark a lower level, put an end to it and leave the ceiling until it dries completely;

add a profile indicator to it, and when using a heater, you need to measure it taking into account its size;

with the help of a hydraulic level, which measures more accurately, the indicators are transferred to the rest of the walls;

using a beating with a nylon thread, we connect the drawn points, as a result we get a line drawn along the perimeter;

Now we fix the profile at the initial level. With a grinder with a cutting wheel or even scissors for cutting metal, we cut it into the necessary parts, fix it to the surface with dowels, and the distance between the points should be from 50 cm;

we fix the second level of the profile, the second layer is shifted to the first level with the thickness of the drywall located in a vertical position;

racks are fastened in a vertical arrangement using self-tapping screws for metal. As for the first case, points are applied and connected, with segments - 20 cm.

When working with drawing a profile, keep in mind that it can then expand. Therefore, for safety, it is better not to fasten tightly with the wall.

Wiring for lighting fixtures:

After completing the installation of the frame, you need to start attaching the wiring for lighting devices.

To do this, we perform the following steps:

We select the area where the junction box will be located, leaving room for possible repairs. And if energy-saving lamps are used, we also select a section for a step-down transformer. After that, the boxes are installed.

We mark the location of the lamps.

Then we fix the wires in the previously made channels.

Pay attention to the installation of wire for lamps, it must be done with the highest quality, since then it will be difficult to get to the connections inside the niche. Therefore, it is better not to twist, but to use terminal blocks for reliability.

When choosing a cable, specify the section, since the core should have approximately 20% excess power. Therefore, it is recommended to take copper.

We attach the wires to the lighting devices with the length necessary for complete connection.

Be sure to immediately check the devices for light distribution, then it will be quite difficult to do this.

When everything is fine with the light, you can remove the lighting devices and turn off the light.

Now it's time to install a two-level stretch ceiling. First you need to attach drywall, which is placed vertically, and then you can do the installation of the film.

The main stages of film installation:

First, drywall is measured to the required dimensions and cut with a sharp knife. With the help of a self-tapping screw for metal, the film is fixed, and this is done exclusively on the profile. It is recommended to install it with exceptional places of 5 mm, and after application, everything can be leveled with putty.

Having installed drywall, we level everything with putty, and after the first layer has dried, a second, thinner one is applied. Having eliminated the sinks, we clean everything with sandpaper. Now it's time to prime and consistently paint the surface. We do all the work related to drywall with high quality, for the subsequent tight connection of the film with it.

If you plan to install a backlight on drywall, it is better to do this before attaching the canvas. Using a drill with a crown, the necessary holes are made, and then continue to adjust and process the film.

Before installation, the film is heated to 70 C using a heat gun, which is not brought close enough to the material. Film fastening starts from the corners of the building. But first, objects that are afraid of a heating temperature of 50 C are taken out of the room.

Using a spatula or spatula, the canvas is refueled inside the baguette until it clicks, which indicates the end of the refueling.

Then we do the same, first with a diagonal corner, and then with the rest of the corners. Further, starting from the center, in the direction of the corners, fill the rest of the surface. When the surface and material dries, the canvas itself will tighten well.

In place of the lamps in the film, there must be pre-cut circles with the required diameter, and a special ring is also bought in place of the cuts. This will ensure reliability during operation and operation of the film material.

Following all the instructions, you can quite simply install two-level stretch ceilings. The main thing is to measure everything correctly and do the job well.

Installation of a two-level stretch ceiling video:

• What to look for when installing a ceiling?

Currently, suspended ceilings are the most convenient, original and aesthetic type of decoration. A stretch ceiling is best suited for a large room with high walls. As a basis for such a ceiling, a special fabric or vinyl film is used.

It can have a glossy, matte and combined structure. you can install a two-level ceiling with your own hands without spending money on the services of third-party specialists. Properly arranged two-level stretch ceilings make it possible to hide defects and various communications, translate into reality a wide variety of design ideas and divide the room into separate zones.

Preparing for the installation of a stretch ceiling

Before you are going to mount a stretch ceiling with your own hands, you need, as with any other construction and installation work, to plan everything carefully, carefully and in detail. First, the design and design of the tension or suspension system is developed, a scheme is prepared, and the required amount of materials for work is calculated. The scheme for marking a false ceiling with two levels is shown in Fig. one.

Figure 1. Scheme of marking a false ceiling with two levels.

After completing the two-level ceiling scheme, you need to think over and choose places for mounting spotlights or chandeliers. You can see how the design diagram for installing a chandelier looks like in Fig. 2. Then all the required measurements are taken, and a drawing of a two-level ceiling is created, indicating the measurements taken. The drawing indicates the installation locations of the guides and profiles that will make up the two-level ceiling. It also marks the attachment points of the suspensions, regardless of which structure will be mounted: tension or suspension.

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Start marking should be from the lowest corner of the room. Use the building level for this.

Figure 2. Design diagram for installing a chandelier.

Mark the installation locations of the guide profiles.

Two-level stretch ceilings are installed using the following tools:

1. Perforator - used to secure the guide profiles.
2. Spatulas and blades for stretching and fixing the canvas.
3. Screwdriver.
4. Stepladders are an indispensable thing when working at height.
5. A heat gun equipped with a gas cylinder will be used to heat and stretch the fabric.
6. Building level - used when marking. The most convenient to use is the laser level.

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Step-by-step instructions for installing a two-level ceiling

Figure 3. Scheme of the installation of the first level.

Before you start creating a ceiling with your own hands, carefully read the following diagrams. Figure 3 shows the layout of the installation of the first level. In Fig. 4 you can see a diagram of the device of the second level of the ceiling.

A two-level ceiling involves the installation of lighting fixtures, so you need to think in advance about the wiring device. All wiring must be hidden in a special cable channel. It looks like a corrugated hose fixed on the ceiling.

Despite the fact that such a ceiling has a two-level structure, you will need to find a common level. Determine the width of the baguette and mark the same distance from the native ceiling to the corner. Transfer the resulting label to each corner of the perimeter. To do this, use a water or laser level. Stretch a paint cord between the marks and beat off the control line.

The second level must be made in the form of a circle in the center of the existing ceiling. Draw diagonals. The center of their intersection will be the desired circle. Screw a screw into the intersection point and pull a thin wire over it. The length of the wire should correspond to the radius of the intended circle. Screw a pencil onto the end of the wire and draw a circle. Make sure that the diameter of the circle is about 10-20 mm larger than the circle itself. This will allow you to more easily navigate the line during the installation process.

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The ceiling you are creating consists of two levels, and the circle allows you to understand how the transition from the upper level to the lower one is carried out. The transition can be wavy or straight, it does not affect the order of the work.

Figure 4. Scheme of the device of the second level of the ceiling.

After the control line around the perimeter is ready, you can start attaching the profile to the wall, focusing on the line for the main level. The profile is fixed with plastic dowels and screws. Use dowels with a diameter of 6 mm, and screws - 4-5 mm.

Install the profile around the entire perimeter, and then mount the circle in the center. Due to the fact that the ceiling is two-level, the circle should have such a width that would coincide with the depth of the first level of the system. To fix the structure to the main ceiling, use the same screws and dowels as for fixing the wall baguette. Before fixing the circle, make sure that the surface of the main ceiling is level. If the surface has deviations, you need to level it with drywall sheets.

The ceiling you are creating has a circle in the middle. To make this space not seem empty, you need to install a chandelier. The chandelier needs a console. This bracket is made of OSB or thick plywood combined with a tape suspension. You can use ready-made mount. It is better not to install this device on boards, because. in this case, cracks may appear along the fibers.

The PVC film is attached to the baguettes with 2 bolts. It needs to be heated with a heat gun to about 70 degrees and fixed in a profile. According to the same scheme, the installation of a second-level vinyl film is carried out in a previously installed circle. To hide the gaps, use a special decorative film. In conclusion, you just have to install the chandelier on the console. On this, a two-level stretch ceiling is ready.

Today it is very fashionable to install stretch ceilings in their homes. And that's not bad. In recent years, this option for decorating rooms has acquired a large number of myths and legends, which in practice are not always justified. The main clue of incredulous users was the self-assembly of the stretch ceiling. But that too is in the past.