How to make a suspended ceiling from plastic panels. We make a ceiling from plastic panels: detailed instructions and a photo report for the work performed

Good day, dear readers. In this article I will try to talk in detail about how to finish the ceiling with plastic. PVC panels are far from suitable for all rooms: in the kitchen, for example, if you use plastic on the ceiling, you cannot do without a hood over the stove, otherwise the ceiling will quickly become unusable. It will be hard to breathe in the living room, especially in the heat in summer. Plastic is well suited for bathrooms and corridors.

Consider the general course of work, and at the very end we will analyze a specific, rather beautiful and original example(in my opinion). Let us immediately dwell on the fittings and terminology used in order to avoid confusion in the future. Those of you who are not dealing with PVC panels for the first time can safely go to the end of the article, for example.

Terminology

Plastic panels. PVC panels are found in various lengths (from 2.5 to 6 m), widths (from 15 to 50 cm) and thicknesses (from 4 to 10 mm). Color palette huge, they are found both with a glossy and matte finish, as well as with a variety of patterns and ornaments. They are joined to each other using a “thorn / groove” connection or a slightly more modern version - a “lock” connection.

Mounting strips (rails) with clamps. They are made of plastic, less often of galvanized. A rail with a recess in the center, in which "creeping" clamps (clamping brackets) are located, is used for convenience PVC mounting-panels (however, you can perfectly do without them).
Starting bar, U-shaped. With this bar, they usually begin work on laying PVC and finish it. There are U-shaped profiles of various depths and working thicknesses. The working thickness is the thickness of the PVC panels for which the fittings are intended. Sellers will claim that, they say, a 9 mm thick plank is suitable for panels from 5 to 10 mm, but this is not so. The 9 mm thick starter profile is suitable for panels from 8 to 10 mm, less thick panels will be inconvenient to work with. This is true for all PVC fittings, except for the mounting rail.
Connecting, docking strip, H-shaped profile. It is intended for joining PVC panels where tongue/groove or mortise joints cannot be used, it is supposed to increase the length of the panels, but in fact its scope is much more extensive.
F-shaped profile. Used to decorate corners or ends when changing from PVC to another material. For example, the outer corner - you need to switch from plastic to tiles, or wallpaper.
Planks covering inside corners.
Planks that cover outside corners.
Ceiling plinth, fillet. The same starting bar, with an additional decorative transition from the PVC ceiling to the wall material. The ceiling plinth has its own separate inserts, internal and external corners, as well as connections in length.

There is still a certain amount of PVC fittings, but we will not need it for the ceiling.

It is better to mount the ceiling after the walls are finished, and vice versa, but, believe me, it’s easier. Before starting work, you need to think about two things.

First, whether the clothes dryer will then be attached to the ceiling, and if so, how. And subsequently take this aspect into account when carrying out work.

The second is the light source.

If you mount spotlights, then it is much more convenient to do it in parallel with the installation of the ceiling.

In case you decide to leave standard version with one powerful light bulb, it is better to place PVC panels parallel to the light source, so the joints between the panels will be less noticeable.

Also, before starting work, it is necessary to calculate and purchase materials.

If the ceiling is even and made of a material into which a self-tapping screw is easily and reliably screwed (a wooden ceiling in a country house), then you can do without a crate, but then you will have to lay a vapor barrier, since there will be no ventilation gap between the PVC panels and the ceiling.

The crate is made from special mounting strips or from wooden slats. I often hear: a tree is impossible - it will rot. I answer: You will get tired of the ceiling a hundred times before it rots, I did it with my mother in 2003 - it is still like new.

You can also use galvanized slats for drywall. The crate must be placed perpendicular to the planks of the future ceiling.

The distances between the laths of the crate are a purely individual thing, but on average about 50 cm between the laths, it is often not worth it ( extra expense materials).

For the crate, one of the above materials is used, depending on what is available and what height of clearance is required. For example, you need to leave a gap for installation spotlights 50 mm. We take a wooden rail 20 x 40 mm, with a side of 20 mm, fasten it to the ceiling, and already we fasten a mounting plate 10 mm thick on it. Or we immediately take a 20 x 50 mm rail and fasten it with a side of 20 mm to the ceiling. If an even larger gap is required, it is better to take a galvanized drywall profile: it can be easily placed on special fasteners 10-15 cm from the ceiling.

Start profile

The next step is to attach a starting profile or fillet around the entire perimeter (whoever likes it more). The starting bar is attached to the crate with screws or staples, close to the wall. In the corners, the starting ones can be joined at 45 °, but this is difficult, and few people come out beautifully. It's easier to make one of the starting ones enter the other. The upper part in the corner can be trimmed so as not to bulge.

In the fillets, a technical gap is left in the corners, which will then be closed with a corner, internal or external, if the ceiling is irregularly shaped.

The dimensions of the ceiling often “walk”, so it is better to measure and cut each panel individually. The distance between the walls is measured, along the ceiling where the panel will lie, subtract 4-5 mm and get right size panels. The PVC panel cut to the required size is slightly bent in the center, in the manner of a hunting bow, inserted with its ends into the starting profile on walls perpendicular to the length of the panel, and pushed with a comb into the parallel starting profile.

On the side of the groove on the PVC panel there is a thin plastic protrusion, which will then be closed by the next panel, through this protrusion the panel is fixed with self-tapping screws or a climber is snapped onto it if the installation is on special rails.

Each next panel is inserted into the previous one, and attached to the crate in the same way.

Last panel

With the last panel you have to tinker a bit. We measure its width along both edges (the last panel often comes out "oblique"). We measure the width from the bottom edge of the penultimate panel to the bottom edge of the starting profile and add 5 mm to the resulting size. On the panel itself, we measure this distance not from the crest, but from the edge of the panel, which will be visible.

Having cut the panel to size, glue it with inside PVC panels with adhesive tape, almost from the crest to the cut side, and bring it to the front side by 15-20 cm (crumple on the front side so that it does not stick). We insert the panel into the starting one to the full depth, and slide it into the previous one for the crumpled ends of the adhesive tape. Sliding, carefully cut the tape with a paint knife along the edge of the starting bar.

Was given a combined bathroom 2400 x 1850 with a single source of light - a bright lamp above the door. In the process of tiling the walls, the electric cord was extended to such a length that it was enough to reach the center of the ceiling in the bathroom, with a margin. On the wall, the wire was laid under the tiles, on the ceiling it was fastened with clamps. A crate was mounted on the ceiling parallel to the short walls.

The first and last bars were located at a distance from short walls about 28 cm, just as short of the long walls. PVC panels were mounted on this crate, blue with small white streaks. The panels were attached without starting profiles, just along the edges through the plane with self-tapping screws. Height from the ceiling 30 mm, 20 mm thickness of the lathing (from wooden laths) and 10 mm PVC thickness.

Along the perimeter of the bathroom, a rail 40 x 20 mm was attached to the ceiling with an edge, and the same rail was attached to it, but already a plane, which together gave 60 mm from the ceiling. To this base, also along the perimeter, the starting profile was fixed.

White PVC panels 300 mm wide were inserted into all four starting strips with a comb (from the side of the groove - a protruding element, before insertion - cut off). Between themselves, they were joined at 45 ° with a technical gap, and fastened together with an H-profile (connecting bar), which was threaded from the center side onto both panels at once. From the edge, where the groove between the blue and white plastic, there was a distance of 30 mm, a bar 30 x 30 mm was inserted there and carefully drilled through the edge of the white plastic to the crate of the blue plastic.

Next, a narrow F-profile was taken, and the inner part was cut off from it, leaving a corner of 40 x 13 mm. And with this corner, a 30 x 30 bar was decorated with transparent liquid nails. A small spherical chandelier was fixed in the center of the bath, located at a distance of 10-12 cm from the ceiling, and the mirror in front of the sink was with an additional spotlight, which eliminated the effect of “face in shadows."

Plastic has many supporters and no less opponents. But if you need an inexpensive, quickly mounted and attractive finish, then one of the most popular options is plastic panels. Every year their range is increasing. There are plain, striped, plaid, with flowers and floral elements, imitating brickwork, natural stones, etc. Of all this diversity, the ceiling of plastic panels are usually made uniform. And most often - white or very close to it - with a slight shade, such as "baked milk", ecru, Ivory etc.

According to the type of surface, they can be glossy or matte. There are collections with a rough surface - for those who prefer original solutions. Also available with glitter inserts. But since the ceiling of plastic panels is almost always made in technical rooms- kitchen, bathroom, toilet, on the balcony - then small, as a rule, sizes make you choose a glossy surface: it visually raises the ceiling, and due to reflection, the room seems more spacious. Also, the reflections on the ceiling increase the illumination - when frosted ceiling must be taken large quantity lamps or increase their power.

Harmful or not

You can often hear that there is no place for plastic in the house. Maybe, but plastic is almost everywhere. They even pack goods into it, we have many products in the kitchen and in the bathroom also made of plastic. PVC panels are made from the same group of plastics as syringes and food containers. What is nice is that this material does not have pores in which bacteria and other microorganisms can settle. If there is a nutrient medium on the surface and conditions are favorable, they will multiply, but they can be removed with one movement of a rag dipped in soapy water or a disinfectant solution. Plastic panels are really hygienic. Evidence can be considered the fact that the sanitary station allows them to decorate medical institutions.

There are plastic mirror panels or with mirror parts - stripes

The second point that stops many is the flammability of plastics. They really are on fire. They begin to maintain a flame at a temperature of + 360 ° C. For comparison: and fiberboard, start to burn at +250°C. If we compare these materials in terms of the amount of smoke emitted, then plastics emit 40-50% less smoke.

Another argument: the ceiling of plastic panels does not breathe. If you live in a private house, and you have a ventilated attic above, air exchange is important. If you live in a high-rise building, you still need to equip a ventilation system, which is a must in both the kitchen and the bathroom with a toilet. And to prevent condensation from accumulating behind the ceiling, build a pair of ventilation grilles into the ceiling in opposite corners. Although, the ceiling is still leaky and with sufficient air exchange, no problems arise.

Types of plastic ceiling panels

All PVC panels are divided into two categories: wall and ceiling. They differ in rigidity and weight: mechanical strength is unimportant on the ceiling, therefore the material is made lightweight, with thin walls. You need to handle them carefully: you can even crush them with two fingers. Is it possible to mount Wall panels to the ceiling. It is possible, but they are more expensive, and their higher strength is unclaimed. In addition, they are heavier, so the load on the frame will be slightly increased (if any) and this must be taken into account when installing it.

Now about the dimensions of the panels and the types of their surfaces. There is a material whose appearance resembles a lining: the same strips, only made of plastic. The ceiling of such panels is also called slatted because appearance the surface is very similar.

An almost flat, crack-free surface, with hardly distinguishable joints, is obtained from seamless plastic panels. The joints of such panels are almost imperceptible: the front surface is even and smooth, and on the sides there is a spike and a groove, as on a conventional lining, with which the skin is assembled.

There is also sheet plastic. It is more difficult to work with it and it is used little: it is necessary if columns or other non-linear surfaces are trimmed, and it is more convenient to assemble the ceiling from rails.

The advantages of ceilings made of plastic panels include the ease of care for them: almost any contamination is washed off with warm soapy water. The appearance remains unchanged for about 5-10 years - it depends on the quality of the plastic.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

When buying PVC rails, you will also need finishing profiles - moldings - with the help of which the ends and joints are formed. Their choice depends on the configuration of your room and on how exactly you are going to make the ceiling. There are two options: make a false ceiling or attach plastic directly to the main one.

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels

One side, false ceiling allows you to covertly lay communications without chasing the walls. On the other hand, it "eats" some height. It will take a minimum of 3 cm. But this is if the lamps are installed ordinary, and not built-in. To install a built-in lamp, the false ceiling must be lowered from the main one by 8-12 cm. You will not find smaller lamps, except for furniture or LED ones. If you put them in sufficient quantities and separately illuminate the mirror, then the illumination should be enough.

Assembling the frame

On device false ceiling assemble the frame from the guides. Most often, profiles are used to work with drywall. If you are doing the ceiling in the bathroom or in the kitchen, take galvanized profiles and fasteners. In drier rooms, this is not critical. They also assemble a frame from wooden bars of 30 * 30 mm or a larger section.

They nail the planks or profiles first along the perimeter, putting them all in level. Then, on standard suspensions (there are two types) or wooden bars, intermediate guides are fixed in increments of 50-60 cm. They are also aligned so that they are in the same plane as those installed earlier (it’s easier to do if you pull the threads between those already installed and align them).

If you decide to make a minimum indent, just to lay a corrugated hose - 3 mi, then the planks are nailed directly to the ceiling. If necessary, the level is leveled with linings - pieces of plywood, wedges made of wood, etc. In this case, the framework looks something like this.

Installation of starting strips

After the frame is assembled, you can begin the installation of plastic panels. It begins with the installation of the start profile. In the case of a ceiling, a ceiling molding is also used.

It is attached close to the profile or bar fixed around the perimeter of the room. The edges are cut at an angle of exactly 45 °. The length must be measured very accurately: the slightest discrepancy leads to gaps. On the background white ceiling and white profiles (or colored ones, it doesn't matter), the cracks turn black very clearly. If they are small, it will be possible to cover them with putty, but it is better to cut them off clearly: exactly exactly along the length of the wall or with a light - 1 mm - spacing.

The cut off bar can be glued or screwed with self-tapping screws. Ceiling molding is better - to glue (on liquid nails). So the joint turns out to be perfect: when gluing, you press the bar tightly, screwing onto the “bugs” you cannot achieve this effect, since it twists forward a little.

On the side that goes to the wall, a thin strip of glue is applied in a zigzag pattern. The surface of the wall is degreased (you can take 646 solvent). After drying, the piece is set in place, pressed tightly along the entire length and torn off. There should be glue on the wall. Leave it to dry for a few minutes (4-8 depending on the viscosity, the bar should not float, and the glue should stick well) and then apply it in place. To be sure that the bar is level, take a rule, a ruler, an even bar and check the level of the glued starting profile. If necessary, until the glue has finally set, the bar is adjusted.

Having glued the starting profiles on three sides (letter P), they are left to dry, otherwise, when installing the planks, they can be moved. After 8-12 hours, the adhesive will harden and it will be possible to continue the installation.

If, during gluing, “liquid nails” squeezed out somewhere, do not clean it. Wait until completely dry, then pry with a sharp knife. The glue will simply break off and there will be no traces left. If you try to remove it with liquid, it will only smear and stain everything around.

Installation of plastic panels on the ceiling

After the glue has dried, you can begin the installation of the plastic panels themselves. Measure the size from one joint of the already mounted skirting boards to another, add 1.5-1.8 cm to this value. Cut panels of this length. You do not need to make them across the entire width or length of the room - they will not become in profile. If the geometry of the room is ideal, you can cut a lot at once. If there are deviations in size, make several pieces, adjusting the length as you go. You can cut plastic with a jigsaw or grinder.

The first panel enters the previously installed molding from three sides. She is placed with a spike forward - in the bar. Sometimes, if the trim profile is made of soft plastic, top part(mounting shelf) flexes, making installation difficult. To make the deflection smaller, this edge can be grabbed with self-tapping screws. So it will be easier to insert the bar, otherwise you have to correct it with a spatula, setting the panel in place. It should go into the baseboard or starting profile exactly along the entire length. The inserted strip is fixed to each guide with a self-tapping screw. For fastening to a wooden frame, you can use a stapler with staples (if you mount it in a bathroom or kitchen, then take the staples from stainless steel or galvanized).

The setting of subsequent bands is the same. They are installed first with one edge - into the molding (it enters the plinth by 6-7 mm), then insert the other edge. After that, the bar is leveled, lifting the middle with the hand and eliminating the deflection, tap on the edge with the palm, driving the lock into the groove. It doesn't take much effort, just to make it sit tight. Below you will see that there is no gap at the junction, which means the strip has become normal.

If there is an assistant, he supports the installed panel so that it does not fall out while you fix it on the screws (brackets). If you work alone, you can eliminate the sagging by sticking small pieces of double-sided tape on the profile. They will hold the bar until you secure it. So collect all the panels.

During installation, do not forget to cut holes for installing fixtures. You can do this with a ballerina or a ring nozzle, you can try with a jigsaw, but if you have a good command of the tool and you can make a round hole. As it turned out, you can make a hole with an ordinary drill with a thin drill ... how? Watch in the video. There are a couple more good tips in there.

Having installed a strip or strips in which there is a hole for the lamp, you immediately mount it, connect it and check it. If this is not done immediately, then problems may arise: how can you connect the wires if the entire ceiling is already assembled? Just disassemble part of it. And if you put the last strip on glue? Have to break. Therefore, we install and check the performance immediately.

Installing the last panel

Most of the difficulties arise when installing the last strip. It usually has to be cut. Measure the actual distance from one side of the ceiling and from the other. The difference can be several centimeters. There is nothing unusual or difficult about this. And then there are two options:

• The cut strip is simply inserted into the pre-glued starter profile or plastic plinth. With sufficient panel width, this is possible. But then you need to subtract about 5-7 mm from the measured distance and cut off the strip in this way. Otherwise, you won't put it in. And so it has to be carefully corrected with something thin (steel spatula) so that it falls into place. After a few attempts, it still works out ... But besides the difficulties with installation, there is another drawback here: after a while, since the strip is a little shorter, it moves away (it sinks more into the molding) and a small gap appears in the ceiling.
• The second option is to glue the strip. Then, cutting off the last panel, set aside the distance measured earlier on the ceiling as it is. And not from the beginning of the panel itself, but from the thrust bar. Then it is glued in its pure form on “liquid nails”. Only glue is applied not to the strip, but to all guides. And the one along the wall, and on the perpendicular laying (to which they were attached with self-tapping screws). Further, the technology is the same: they applied it, pressed it down, set it aside for a few minutes, and then finally installed it. The disadvantage of this method is that this strip is not removable. It will need to be broken if necessary. Therefore, leave one more in stock - just in case.

Installation of a plastic ceiling made of PVC panels is almost completed. It remains to install the last plastic plinth. On it, the mounting plate is first cut off: leave only the plinth. After it, you also cut it at the corners at 45 °, try it on, cut it off exactly. Having tried it “dry” again and making sure that the size is correct, the plinth is smeared with glue, only both shelves are already: the one that will be glued to the ceiling, and the one that will be glued to the wall.

Sealing cracks with acrylic

Actually, the installation is completed. But sometimes one more operation is necessary: ​​covering all the gaps with white acrylic. This operation is not needed if you bought high-quality panels that have perfect geometry - French and Belgian. After their assembly, there is no need for correction: there are no sags that form due to the fact that the panels are uneven. Otherwise, we take acrylic sealant, insert the tube into the mounting gun, and fill all the cracks and gaps. Usually these are joints and corners, and also the junction of the plastic plinth with the ceiling. Often there are so many gaps that you have to go through the entire perimeter.

Fill the gaps in small sections of 30-40 cm, removing all unnecessary and leveling the seam. Acrylic levels well until it sets, which is a matter of seconds. Therefore, they smeared a piece, corrected it. If everything is ok, move on. You can remove excess acrylic with a soft cloth, but sometimes it’s more convenient with your finger - for some reason it turns out smoother. Having smeared a piece, take an object with a sharp and even edge (a small spatula) and a damp sponge. Excess putty evenly cut off with a sharp corner of the spatula, then wipe everything with a damp sponge until it is clean, otherwise you will not wipe it off later. So go through the entire perimeter and leave to dry for 8-12 hours.

After the acrylic dries, it can be drawn into the seam. You have to take the tube again and fill the gaps that have appeared, rub it, remove the excess and wash off the smeared. This, the second time, is usually the final one. After drying and this layer, stains remain on the plastic ceiling. Wipe them with a damp clean sponge and then gently rub with a soft cloth to a shine. Now the ceiling of plastic panels is ready, and after installing the fixtures, the repair can be considered completed.

How to mount to the ceiling

If the ceiling is already flat and does not need to be leveled, plastic panels can be mounted directly on it. The order of work is the same: first, the starting profile, then cut-to-size strips are inserted into it, fixing at least every 50 cm.

Choose fasteners depending on the material from which the ceiling is made. Carnations or staples from a stapler can be beaten into a tree. It is more difficult with concrete: self-tapping screws will not work, and you will be tormented by drilling a hole for the dowel for each fastening. Then it’s better to assemble the frame with a minimum indent from the ceiling and then assemble everything as described above.

Another option is to glue on liquid nails. The technology is well-known, but its minus is that such a ceiling made of plastic panels turns out to be non-separable and it will have to be completely dismantled if something happens.

Lamps in the ceiling made of plastic panels

It's not about design or quantity - here everyone is determined by himself, but about the type of lamps and power supply. There are two options: install conventional lamps at 220 V or with a step-down transformer at 12 V. In the first option, ordinary incandescent or housekeeper lamps are installed, in the second - halogen or LED. In any case, a separate machine with an RCD should be allocated for lighting the bathroom or kitchen, which will turn off the electricity supply in the event of a short circuit.

Features of installation and selection of luminaires for 220 V

If you install lamps for 220 V, and put even low-power (40-60 W) incandescent lamps in them, you will have to somehow take care of the thermal insulation of the case. Due to the fact that the lamp is heated, its body also becomes very hot. From the heated case, the plastic darkens and warps over time. Therefore, glue a layer of some kind of flexible heat-insulating material onto the body.

The second point concerns electrical safety when working in 220 V lighting. It is necessary to install lamps with a high degree of protection in the bathroom: not lower than IP44. This means that the lamp housing is protected from water jets. Such lamps cost a lot: the technology is complex. The second point: for the most part, they are rather bulky, since the case is usually ceramic. Just hanging it on plastic will not work: mortgages will be needed. They are installed when assembling the frame: these are additional jumpers in those places where the lamps will be attached.

Halogen and LED

Since this type of lamp requires only 12 V, the electrical safety requirements are lower here. In principle, any design is suitable. Power from the shield after the machine is supplied to the transformer, and from it to the lamps. Up to 4 lamps can be powered from one transformer, but there is a limitation in the instructions for them: the maximum length of the wire to the lamp should not exceed 2 meters. Lamps work normally even at a distance of 2.5-2.7 meters. At a higher voltage drop is already significant and the glow is weaker.

If you decide to put a transformer outside the bathroom for added safety, this is a serious limitation, especially if the bathroom is rather big. Then it will have to be transferred to the bathroom and hidden behind a false ceiling made of plastic panels (the thickness of the device is about 3-4 cm).

Sometimes a transformer is put on each lamp. This is normal, it just costs more, but when long distance between lamps is justified.

Even 3-4 decades ago, the decoration and repair of ceilings consisted in their periodic painting or whitewashing. Now modern market building and finishing materials offers a lot interesting solutions, which can be used for ceiling lining. Polyvinyl chloride plastic panels have an excellent value for money. For a reasonable price, you can easily update the ceiling covering. The main advantage of such a finish is that you can install a ceiling made of plastic panels with your own hands, without resorting to the services of specialists.

If you are too lazy to read, then watch the video on the installation of PVC panels:

Advantages of plastic panels:

• strength and durability;
• moisture resistance and fire safety;
• excellent sound insulation;
• ease of care;
• a light weight.

There is no better option for finishing the ceiling in the bathroom, kitchen and bathroom.

What is required to install a ceiling made of plastic panels?

Many are interested in how to make a ceiling from plastic panels. First you need to prepare tools and purchase materials. You need to decide which panels are more suitable for a particular room. It is better to choose material of light colors. On sale there are glossy, matte, imitating wood or marble panels of different sizes.

Necessary materials:

1. Ceiling panels: plastic. To calculate the quantity, you need to use the following formula: divide the ceiling area by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone panel (this figure is on the package). In the resulting figure, add about 15% more in reserve.
2. Profiles. It is necessary to count the number of metal profiles. It is best to draw a ceiling diagram on a piece of paper and mark the location of the profiles. The distance between them should be no more than 60 cm. For installation, you will also need strong metal profiles that are installed around the perimeter of the ceiling.
3. Self-tapping screws and dowels. The number of self-tapping screws and dowels is calculated depending on the number of profiles with a margin.
4. plinth. Finding out the required amount is simple: the perimeter of the ceiling must be divided into three (3 m - the length of one fragment).

From the tools you need to prepare a screwdriver, a knife, a puncher (or in its absence), metal shears, a water level, a tape measure.

Preparing to finish the ceiling with panels

The advantage of finishing the ceiling with panels is that there is no urgent need to dismantle the old coating. If it is in good condition, just outdated or tired, then the frame of the crate can be mounted directly on it. Even if the ceiling is curved, exactly installed panels plastic can easily hide such a flaw. This finishes the ceiling with PVC panels favorably, and.

But if the ceiling is in a dubious position, it must be cleaned of the old coating, which can then suddenly collapse. After thorough cleaning.

Then you can start marking the attachment points of the profiles that will go along the perimeter. To markup was strictly horizontal, use the level. For drawing horizontal lines, it is convenient to use a special twine, painted with chalk. It is pressed to the surface with strictly marked marks, slightly retracted and abruptly released. An even strip of colored chalk will remain on the wall.

Frame installation

The frame can be made of plastic, wood or metal:

1. plastic crate.

A U-shaped plastic profile is attached along the perimeter of the ceiling so that the line drawn in chalk does not protrude beyond its borders. In the corners, the profiles are cut with a miter box and a hacksaw. The distance between the fasteners is no more than 30 cm. After that, they pull the thread across the ceiling and proceed with the installation of the transverse profiles.

1. wooden frame.

The crate can also be made of wood. But for rooms with high humidity(kitchens, bathrooms, bathrooms) this option is of little use. If it is decided to make a crate of wood, then the material must be treated with an antiseptic before use to prevent rotting and destruction. To improve the refractory characteristics, the material is treated with flame retardants. Wooden beams are attached to the ceiling with dowels and screws. Distance - 55-60 cm.

1. Metallic profile

Sheathing the ceiling with plastic panels on metal profiles consists of several stages:

1. Rigid U-shaped profiles are tightly attached to the wall without gaps.
2. Now they begin to install transverse profiles every 60 cm. They are tightly fixed with self-tapping screws to rigid U-shaped profiles.
3. Next, L-shaped profiles are attached to rigid profiles along the perimeter of the ceiling.

Wiring for lighting

A false ceiling makes it possible to hide all communications and wires, therefore, at this stage, communications are carried out or masked. If you need to hide the wires, the panels are installed in such a way that there is a space of at least 2 cm between them and the ceiling. Wires in without fail put in a corrugation.

Installation of PVC panels

It is important not to forget to remove the protective film from the surface of the panels. After that, proceed to cutting and installing panels. The panels are cut with a sharp hacksaw along the length of the ceiling (minus 2-3 mm). The edges are cleaned with fine sandpaper. To make it easier, during installation, follow the following sequence:

• first, one narrow end is inserted into the starting profile along the perimeter;
• then the panel is slightly bent and a second narrow end is installed;
• after that, the wide end is carefully pushed into the profile (for convenience, a small spatula is sometimes used);
• now the fragment is fixed with self-tapping screws.

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Until recently, we could not even imagine that the repair could be so fast, now it can be done in one day. Modern Construction Materials, which allow you to do the finishing with your own hands very quickly, without the services of hired workers. Recently we have already talked about, and today we will tell and show how to make a false ceiling from plastic panels.

Plastic panels are often used for ceiling cladding in the bathroom, toilet, kitchen, loggia or balcony. What is the reason for such popularity, what advantages and disadvantages they have, and how to properly install, we will now tell you.

Plastic false ceilings - metal or wooden frame, which is sheathed with polyvinyl chloride panels. The panels themselves, as they are more commonly called, have different sizes, but the most popular are 2.7 and 3 meters long and 25 centimeters wide. Inside the panels are hollow with stiffeners, so they are very light and very durable, and on the side edges they have locks for docking, almost like in.

Before sheathing the ceiling with plastic panels, it is necessary to purchase all the components: profiles or bars for the frame, and special PVC ceiling cornices. If you come to the store for them for the first time, then the wide PVC selection profiles can confuse you. Let's look at their main types and purpose.
Types of plastic profiles for the ceiling

1. The start profile is the most used one. With it, you can hide the ends of the panels, to do this, fix them around the perimeter of the room along the line of the new ceiling.
2. The outer and inner plastic corner is needed for a beautiful docking in the corners.
3. You will need an H-profile if you did not have enough length for one panel - it will connect their ends.
4. Plastic ceiling plinth needed to hide the ends of the panels. In fact, this is a starting profile, but with a decorative border.
5. F-profile is needed to hide the ends. It can come in handy if you decide to decorate adjacent walls with different materials.
6. Universal plastic corner - a regular corner in the shape of the letter "G". They can hide any joints.

Advantages and disadvantages

Finishing the ceiling with plastic panels has many advantages.

• You can even out any unevenness without removing the old coating.
• You can hide wires, ventilation and other communications in the frame.
• Easy to install built-in lights and lighting.
• Very simple installation process, the design is much simpler than .
• You can install additional insulation from noise, moisture, sound in the frame.
• Installation is carried out by a dry method using dowels and self-tapping screws. This means that you do not need to have special skills for this.
• Moisture-resistant and washable material that is not affected by microorganisms.
• If necessary, you can mount the panels again.

Suspended plastic ceilings have their drawbacks.

• Most of these ceilings look budget, but there are also beautiful colors.
• Buying cheap thin types of panels, you may regret after installation: some of them let in light from recessed lights. You need to buy more expensive lamps in which the inner walls are not transparent.
• You can not make a multi-level structure or bend.
• You will lose some of the height of the room.
• You can see the seams between the panels.

Preparatory work

We'll show you how to do it plastic ceiling, on the example of a finished bathroom. It has already been produced on its walls, which will complicate the installation process.


In our case, the tiles are specially laid almost to the very ceiling, at a distance of about 15 centimeters. There are 2 ways: to mount the frame directly on the tile or above it. If you fix the crate over the tile, then part of the edge will be hidden, which complicates installation on a narrow corner. But if you attach the profiles to the finished tile, there is a high probability of damaging it. Therefore, we choose the first option.

Advice! To fix the profiles flush with the tile, level the surface above it with gypsum plaster, for example, Knauf Rothband. But be sure to stick masking tape on the tiles and seams.

Frame installation

Fasten the guide nails to the dowel along the perimeter of the wall. In wet rooms it is better to use galvanized profiles than wooden bars. Mount after marking on the water or laser level.

Then you need to fix the suspensions that will support the frame from sagging. One dowel per hanger will be enough.

Advice! Before drilling, be sure to check the walls and ceiling for hidden wiring. Very often, wires run in the wall along the ceiling and there are junction boxes. In the best case, getting a drill into the wiring threatens you with broken plugs and forced repairs, and in the worst case, the puncher will fail and you will be shocked. To search for wires in the wall, you can use special detector devices or invite an electrician.

Plastic ceilings can be lowered to almost any height, but the minimum indentation is limited by the thickness of the battens and fixtures. If the standard hangers are not long enough, use anchor hangers with clamps shown in the photo.

Suspended ceiling hangers

Suspensions should be located on the same line in approximately 60 cm increments, and the profiles themselves - at a distance of about 50 centimeters. Fastening plastic panels to the ceiling does not require transverse profiles, unlike, since they have a different shape and are screwed only from one edge. But if you want to hang a chandelier, in this place you still have to strengthen the frame by adding a couple of jumpers.

The finished frame should look something like in the photo:

Now you can screw on the plastic starting profile or ceiling if you want to get a border. Fix it around the perimeter of the room with self-tapping screws in increments of 30-50 centimeters.

Docking curb on the ceiling

Advice! To beautifully join the corners of the baseboard, cut them at an angle of 45 degrees with a hacksaw on a miter box. If there is no miter box, you can simply dock the starting plastic strips on top of each other in the corners, and after fastening, cut them diagonally with a knife.

Panel assembly process

So we have come to the final stage - the installation of plastic panels on the ceiling. Their fastening occurs across the profiles. They can be cut to the desired length with almost anything: a hacksaw with fine teeth, a jigsaw, a sharp knife. Trim the panels 5 millimeters less than the width of the room. The edges are best cleaned with sandpaper so that everything looks perfect. Do not forget to remove the film from them and try not to wrinkle: the panels are pressed through very easily.

Video on how to make a plastic ceiling with your own hands:

Advice! The last panel can be inserted in any way convenient for you, here is one of them: the length of the panel should be a couple of millimeters less than the distance from one wall to the beginning of the opposite starting profile. Insert one side directly into the corner of the wall, and the opposite can be inserted without problems by moving it a little. To dock the last panel, you can stick tape on it and slide it inside the groove. If any small gaps remain, they can be covered with acrylic sealant.

There is another way: just screw the panels to the frame, and after work, fix the curb in the corners with liquid nails. In this case, there will be no problems installing the last panel.

As for the installation of built-in lights, you can cut holes for them after installation, during sheathing or even before it. It is most convenient to use a nozzle on a drill bit, and if it is not there, then drills and a knife. Of course, all wires must already be in place prior to installation in order to connect the fixtures later.

Now the ceiling decoration with plastic panels is over - the photo of our work looks like this:

The plastered ceiling, no matter how beautiful it looked at the beginning, needs repair over time - cracks appear, paints fade. Again take on a difficult, time-consuming task? But you can work once and for many years - find out how!

Plastic on the ceiling - a pressing issue for many

The ceiling of plastic panels is the simplest and most a budget option to forget about the need for constant repairs. Anyone with a desire can mount it - many years of experience construction works not needed, you just have to listen to our recommendations and be careful in your work. Ceiling panels are very light and fragile, so careless handling leaves a mark, and it is impossible to repair the damage.

Until recently, few people imagined what could be done with the ceiling. Plastered, whitewashed or painted with a water-based emulsion. Wallpapering the ceiling was considered chic. Modern solutions in the form of suspended, stretch, mineral, mirror, plasterboard and other ceilings have significantly expanded the design possibilities. All finishing methods are interesting and good, but most of them can only be done by specialists.

The variety of finishing materials is amazing. Modern innovations are simple and reliable, but the price of many is not democratic. We suggest paying attention to materials made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC). They can easily and profitably hem ceilings without resorting to the help of specialists. The value for money is the best. At minimal cost for materials you will receive an unusual suspended ceiling of a European-style renovation.

The color schemes of plastic panels for the ceiling please with their variety. They will decorate any room in an apartment or a country house. low ceilings they will visually become taller, and if we talk about the kitchen, bathroom - this is generally a unique thing for such premises: cheap and beautiful. But in pursuit of originality, one should not choose defiant, or even annoying, shades. Calm pastel colors visually increase the volume of the room, give a feeling of comfort.

PVC panels on the ceiling - an overview of the main varieties

Building materials stores offer a wide selection of PVC panels. They have different lengths and widths, white with gloss or matte, with patterns and patterns, imitation of wood or marble. You can choose for every taste, the main thing is not to confuse panels for ceilings with wall panels. At first glance, they are no different. But there is a difference, it is in weight and stiffness. Walls are heavier and more rigid. The installation of light and soft ceiling panels is more convenient. The whole variety of PVC panels can be classified according to several criteria:

• features of the decorative coating;
• form of manufacture;
• sizes.

There is no coating on matte white panels. The builders gave them the name "in their pure form", they are the cheapest among all. After installation, they look like painted in White color ceilings. Mainly used in utility rooms.

glossy white ceiling panels made with the application of a special varnish that gives shine. They have high reflective properties, which allows them to be used in any room. The monetary and decorative value of such products is higher compared to matte ones.

Colored or patterned panels are produced using different decorating technologies plastic surfaces. The most common way is to use thermal film, from which the pattern is transferred to the panel. For more complex patterns - ornaments, imitation of expensive woods, marble with many shades - the most modern technologies such as high resolution photo printing. Its application requires special equipment, and therefore the panels decorated in this way are the most expensive.

PVC mirror panels stand somewhat apart. To get a mirror effect, a special film is glued to the surface. This decoration is typical for many restaurants, exhibition and shopping centers, swimming pools and sports clubs. But in an apartment panel ceiling appropriate, it expands the space, gives sophistication. But condensation is clearly visible on it, especially in wet rooms, as well as pollution, which requires constant care.

PVC panels

Seam panels are designed to simulate a ceiling made of wooden lining. After installation, small grooves between the panels are distinguished. And between the individual stripes seamless panels joints are almost invisible. Sometimes, if desired, they are sealed with a suitable color of sealant to completely hide the seams. Seam panels highlight the imitation of a type-setting surface, seamless, on the contrary, emphasize solidity.

Product sizes may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. They are 2.5–4 meters in length, from 10 cm to half a meter wide, and 5 to 12 mm thick. Products with standard dimensions are most common, their dimensions are: length - 4 m, width - 25 cm, thickness - 9 mm.

Profiles - the most common types

To install the panels, you will need profiles for the frame and trim. Frame profiles are metal and plastic. Metal profiles with fasteners are used the same as for drywall. They come in two varieties: 25x25mm UD and 25x60mm carrier CD. They are fastened to the ceiling with self-tapping screws or dowels - directly or with the use of suspensions, if it is necessary to increase the distance between the base and the false ceiling.

Plastic frame profiles are appropriate in rooms where humidity is high: bathroom, kitchen, utility rooms. They are attached to the ceiling with dowels, and the panels to them are fastened with metal clamps, which are inserted into the grooves of the profile. Sometimes plastic profiles are installed on top of metal profiles or wooden slats, perpendicular to their direction after 40–50 cm.

Instead of purchased profiles, you can use wooden bars. They are cut into sizes of 10–40 × 40–50 mm. Their thickness depends only on the desired distance from the draft ceiling to the plastic one. To concrete ceiling they are fastened with dowels, to a wooden one - with self-tapping screws. Apply wooden slats should only be done in dry rooms, as wood is prone to rotting. But even in this case, they should be treated with an antiseptic.

To sheathe the ceiling with a profile and give it a beautiful and finished look , you will need special PVC profiles (moldings). The most common of them:

• F - closes the ends, joints with openings of windows and doors;
• H - connects the panels along the length;
• G - external, internal, universal - joins panels in the corners;
• starting U-shaped - fastened along all walls, closes the ends of the panels.

Finishing the false ceiling near the walls is carried out with a special profile. It is made with decorative border, hides the ends. The profiles are painted in various colors or unpainted, they can be matched to any kind of PVC.

Plastic ceiling - about the advantages and disadvantages

The growing demand for PVC plastic for finishing the ceiling in apartments and country houses due to its merits:

1. 1. Plastic is moisture resistant, not afraid of damage by pests and microorganisms. It can be used in damp and unheated rooms.
2. 2. Ease of installation does not require the involvement of specialists, you can install a plastic ceiling with your own hands. No special equipment needed, all tools are available.
3. 3. Suspended structure hides wiring, pipes, other engineering communications, it is possible to mount built-in lamps in it. It is possible to mount a plastic ceiling on an uneven draft, it will hide all its flaws.
4. 4. The space between the base and the ceiling can be insulated, soundproofed. You can install acoustic ceilings for greater protection from extraneous noise.

Some disadvantages relate, first of all, to the characteristics of the material and its decorative effect. It is inflexible, which allows you to arrange the structure in only one plane: multi-level, rounded, with an irregular shape are not available for this material. Many PVC products look too economical, suitable for the corridor, kitchen and similar rooms. But at the same time, expensive mirrored PVC panels, colored products with thermal printing look beautiful in the living room and office.

If you use thin panels behind which recessed lights are installed, they can transmit light. If you plan to install such fixtures, you should not buy too thin panels. On ceilings, with the exception of seamless mirrors, seams are always visible. After installing the panels, you will notice that the ceiling has become a few centimeters lower.

What is required - how to calculate how much material is needed

To calculate how much material is needed, we first measure the ceiling in length and width. Choosing panels on suspended pvc, we try to purchase products whose length is a multiple of one of the dimensions of the ceiling in the room. For example, if the ceiling is 2.8 m, then you should buy six-meter plastic. It can be cut in two, the waste will be 0.4 m from each strip. It is for the purpose of reducing waste that a multiple of the length of the strip is chosen.

As for the number of plastic strips, this can be determined by knowing the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling. It is equal to the length multiplied by the width. From the packaging on the panels, we find out the area of ​​​​one strip. We divide the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone strip, the resulting number is an indicator of the required number of products. But you should remember about waste: for this, add 15% to the resulting number, round up.

You want to know how many profiles you need. We install rigid UD profiles along the perimeter, and the transverse strips load-bearing structure– from a light CD profile. If everything is clear with a rigid UD profile, its total length is equal to overall length all sides, then the footage of the transverse profiles is a little more difficult to calculate. We draw a scaled ceiling on a piece of paper in a box, mark the transverse profiles in the figure after 50 cm. We calculate how much is needed, multiply by the length of one transverse profile. The resulting number is divided by 3 (the length of one frame profile).

We calculate how many dowels are needed for the frame and self-tapping screws on the panel. We proceed from the fact that they are fastened at intervals of 50 cm. If wooden bars are used, 6 mm staples can be used instead of self-tapping screws. We take a little more, it is better to have a reserve than not enough in the midst of work. The process will go faster, the staples will be cheaper, but there will be much fewer self-tapping screws. It remains to find out the quantity. Divide the perimeter by 3 and round.

Panel selection – design and quality

A few words about the choice of panels. We pay attention to two things: quality and design. Choosing the texture and color, we focus on the general style of the room, but dark tones for the ceiling should be avoided. Traditional colors are pastel, blue, beige. Panels that use more than two colors should be avoided.

Having decided on the design, we proceed to the purchase. It is important to buy quality products, pay attention to the following:

• smooth edges - this will ensure high-quality and fast connection;
• uniform color, smooth color transitions;
• do not take too thin and soft panels.

You can check the quality of the plastic. Strongly squeeze the corner of the panel with your fingers, bend it several times. High-quality material is only slightly deformed, bad material will break.

Preparation for installation - measure and mark

The draft ceiling will be closed with suspended plastic, but even so, it should be prepared. With a metal spatula, we remove the plaster in all places where it exfoliates. We also remove, if any, the old finish, putty between the plates, exfoliated whitewash. In a word, we do everything so that later nothing falls on . We prime the entire surface of the ceiling.

We proceed to determine the line for installing a rigid UD profile. Some circumstances should be taken into account:

• if open wiring is laid along the draft ceiling, the distance from it to the upper point of the frame is left at least 2 cm;
• for lamps hidden in the ceiling, we also leave a place depending on their height;
• take into account the unevenness of the ceiling.

We determine the lowest point and put a mark on one of the walls. It is determined based on the lowest place on the ceiling. Then the label is transferred to all walls, we put two on each at different ends. We use what is available. We outline the lines along the walls, for which we use a simple device. We rub the twine abundantly with colored chalk, pull it between two marks on the wall, pull it off with our hand and let it go sharply. The impact will leave a chalk line on the wall.

It happens that the floor and ceiling are not level, even in apartment buildings. If there are no opportunities for correction, we deviate somewhat from the strict level and draw a line so that there is no visual difference in the planes.

We create the basis - the rules and sequence of installing the profile

First, we fasten the profile to the wall along the marking line, if it is metal, then UD. We cut pieces along the length of the walls, drill holes for dowels in them every 50 cm. We apply them to the walls, mark the places of fastening and drill holes for dowels along them, fix them on the wall. The distance from the bottom edge to the base should be at least 2.5 cm.

Before drilling into the wall, be sure to check that there is no hidden wiring or junction boxes. If you hit them with a drill, the easiest thing that can happen is a short circuit.

After installing them, we mount the main ones - CD or wooden blocks. We cut pieces of the required length, given that the panels will be fixed perpendicular to the profile. We fix them directly to the ceiling or use suspensions if the distance to the ceiling exceeds 25 mm. The rigidity of the structure depends on the step between the fasteners, the smaller it is, the stronger the frame. If you plan to install a heavy ceiling lamp, in the place where it will be attached, we install an additional mount.

Using self-tapping screws and press washers, we fasten the starting profile to the guide. The distance between the attachment points is 50 cm, or less. The wide side of the starting profile should face up. We do this carefully so as not to accidentally damage the front side. To join the starting profiles in the corners, sometimes a miter box is used, the ends are cut at an angle of 45 °. But there is a simpler and faster way: at the corner we thread them into each other, then cut them with a sharp knife, getting perfect place docking.

We mount panels - a sequence of actions

We cut the first panel 5 mm shorter than the distance between opposite walls. For cutting, we use a hacksaw for metal, a jigsaw or a grinder. We take sandpaper or abrasive mesh and clean the ends. We handle the panels carefully so as not to wrinkle. Sometimes there is a film on the profile, which must be removed before installation. Then we proceed to install the strip in place.

Insert the plastic into the groove of the starting profile with a narrow end until it stops, slightly bend it down and insert it from the other side. We raise the strip until it touches the transverse profiles and carefully slide the long side into the groove. It may happen that somewhere stuck, plastic is not included. Carefully help with a narrow thin spatula. If you do not rush and do not make excessive efforts, everything will turn out right. The connection nodes are all standard, if a hitch occurs, it is only due to a slight deformation of plastic products.

We fasten the panel to each profile with special self-tapping screws. We are extremely careful not to break the bit. If this happens, it will surely damage the panel, and then nothing can fix it, you will have to remove it. For reliability, first drill a hole in the profile, and then screw in the self-tapping screw. But this is time consuming, because you have to change the bit and drill. We insert the second and all subsequent panels in the same way.

The installation of the last strip is the most difficult operation in the installation of panels. Different methods are used, but first the width of the remaining gap is measured, a line is drawn on the panel and a plastic strip is cut along it. It is better to take the width so that the strip does not rest against the depth of the guide profile, and after docking with the previous panel, it lies only a little in it. Cut to length using the same approach. Due to the smaller size, it is possible to insert the panel into the guide profiles, it remains only to dock with the previous one. We use masking tape, which we stick on the last panel, and tighten it.

Finishing - finally bringing beauty

After installing all the strips, we begin finishing. When using a U-shaped profile, we install a separate plinth along the entire length. We fasten it liquid nails, applying glue only on one side of the plinth, that is, we fasten it only to the ceiling or wall. If it is collapsible, just snap the mate. We install coupling adapters in the corners or use a putty that matches the color.

In places that are marked in advance, we make holes for spotlights. To keep them neat, we use a crown. In size, it is selected 4 mm less than external diameter lamp, but larger than the diameter of the inner part. Wiring should be carried out during the installation process, and the fixtures should be connected upon completion of all work. We fasten the chandelier on a hook to a pre-installed additional profile.