We are building a bathhouse. Budget bath: how to get noticeable savings without losing comfort

Building your own bath is an occupation that must be approached with all responsibility. As practice shows, most often a beam is used for the manufacture of baths, which makes it possible to make an environmentally friendly, reliable and durable building. This article will discuss how to properly build a bath from a bar.

Advantages of a bar

Perhaps the most important advantage of a beam is the simple construction of a bathhouse from scratch using this material. In addition, the beam qualitatively stands out among other materials used in the construction of bath structures, and even against the background of the closest analogue - rounded beam.

The main advantages of the beam are as follows:

• Ease of working with the material, thanks to which the bath can be built independently without resorting to the services of professional builders;
• Traditional lumber has the smallest shrinkage ratio compared to other wood materials;
• Building a bath from a bar is much cheaper than using other building materials;
• A special beam for a bath can have fasteners prepared from the factory, which greatly simplifies the installation process.

Nevertheless, despite the qualities described above, it must be understood that there are differences between timber and timber. That is why, since we are building wooden bath, it is worth choosing the material wisely in order to avoid unpleasant consequences.

Choosing a bar for a bath

The quality of the wood directly affects the characteristics of the building, so you need to pay a lot of attention to this issue. When choosing, you must immediately check the timber for integrity - even extremely minor defects and flaws should be absent. The fact is that any damage has a cumulative effect, as a result of which a small crack can eventually lead to damage and destruction of the tree. It is necessary to understand which tree is better to build a bath from, and which one is better to refuse.

The surface of the wood must not be stained. of blue color. The presence of such flaws always indicates the decay of the material from the inside, which is most likely provoked by dangerous and extremely harmful microorganisms. Naturally, it is strictly forbidden to use such a tree in the construction of a bath (and any other buildings).

If, during a visual inspection of the beam, traces of damage by rodents or beetles were noticed, then such material is also not suitable for arranging a bath. Good bars have a smooth and ugly surface without damage, dents, cracks, bends and distortions. The presence of any of the listed signs is a guarantee of the fragility of the material.

Bath construction algorithm

The stages of building a bath from a log house are as follows:

1. Foundation arrangement.
2. Foundation waterproofing.
3. Arrangement of the first crown.
4. Arrangement of the remaining crowns.
5. Creation of door and window openings.
6. Caulk of cracks.
7. Roof arrangement.

Foundation arrangement

The finished wooden bath is relatively light in weight, so the extensive monolithic foundation under the building is not required. A perfectly suitable option would be a strip or column foundation.

When choosing strip foundation first you have to dig a trench around the perimeter and under each wall of the future building. At the bottom of the pit, a mixture of sand and gravel is first poured, then a reinforcing mesh is laid. Further, everything is carried out according to the algorithm familiar to many - the formwork is installed and poured concrete mortar.

The depth of the foundation is determined individually, depending on the degree of soil freezing. As practice shows, the average depth of the trench is about 70-100 cm. In order for the foundation to reliably protect the structure from dampness, it must be raised at least half a meter above ground level.

In the perimeter of the strip base, strips of crushed stone and sand should be poured. Then these strips can be filled, for example, with concrete mortar, or you can arrange a wooden floor on top of them - final version you will have to choose yourself. In the same way, you can build a bath in the country, which many do.

The columnar foundation is arranged differently. Work begins with the arrangement of brick supports or asbestos pipes filled with concrete. These elements should be installed around the perimeter, at the corners of the structure and under each wall of the bath. Supports are installed not just in the ground, but on top of a concrete pad. The distance between the individual posts should be about 1.5 m.

In any case, the base must be reinforced to ensure maximum strength. When the concrete hardens (and this usually takes about a month), it will be possible to continue work on the arrangement of the bath.

Foundation waterproofing

Heated bitumen is poured over the hardened concrete, on which sheet roofing material is laid. When the bitumen hardens, this whole operation will need to be repeated, resulting in a reliable hydro-barrier that can prevent moisture from entering the wooden elements baths.

Partly the same purpose is served by treating wood with an antiseptic - most special tools improve the resistance of the material to all types of damage.

Arrangement of the first crown

Having finished preparatory stages, you can finally start laying the bath. The first stage is laying the first crown. Laths are laid on the waterproofing in increments of 30 cm, the thickness of which does not exceed 15 mm. Naturally, all rails must be impregnated with an antiseptic before starting work.

The laid slats protect the building from direct contact with the foundation, which significantly provides additional protection for the tree from moisture. The lower bars are laid on top of the rails.

The first crown should not be fixed immediately. First you need to make sure that the structure is laid out correctly and evenly, for which a square and a level are used. Only after leveling the bars can they be fastened. There are several ways to do this, but most often the timber is fastened with anchor bolts.

However, often when arranging a private bath, they simply refuse to fix the lower crown. The reason for this is quite simple: the own weight of the structure is large enough to hold the structure in place. In addition, this method provides an unexpected advantage - if it is necessary to replace part of the lower crown, much less effort will be required.

Regardless of the method of fastening, the space between the crown and the base is filled with mounting foam, after which further work can be done.

Installation of other crowns

A layer of heat-insulating material is laid over the first crown. For baths, jute, moss or tow is usually used. It is advisable to lay out the material in such a way that a small part of it (about 10 cm) sticks out - in the future it will be possible to use this tolerance for caulking.

After the first row, it is quite logical to lay the second. It is fixed with wooden dowels, for which suitable holes are pre-drilled in the bars. One dowel can connect several successively laid rows.

In the same way, all other rows that form the walls are mounted. It is worth checking the structure for horizontal and vertical alignment every 2-3 rows. Also, we must not forget about the sealing material, which must be present between all the crowns.

The top two rows of the bath are not fixed. The fact is that wood shrinks over time, and ceiling beams can be mounted only when this process becomes almost invisible. Before laying the beams, the upper crowns are dismantled.

Creating door and window openings

There are two fundamental different schemes used to create doors and windows in a wooden bath:

1. Windows and doors are created after the construction of the bath. In this case, at the stage of laying the crowns, it is necessary to leave gaps that correspond in size to the products being installed (more details: ""). When the bath is built, with the help of a chainsaw, suitable openings are cut in the right places.
2. Windows and doors are prepared in advance. This method is much more complicated, since its implementation will require special grooves and bars with end cuts.

In practice, the first method is most often used, which is quite simple and does not require special costs.

caulking slots

The assembled building must be left for about six months so that the tree sags sufficiently. At this time, the structure should be covered with boards and slate. After that, you can start sealing the cracks.

Roof arrangement

Installation of the roof, which can only be started after the shrinkage of the building, is as follows:

1. Wooden ceiling beams are laid above the upper wall trim.
2. Rafters are attached to fixed beams at a distance of about a meter.
3. A flooring made of pre-selected material or a crate under a sheet roof is nailed to the rafter legs.
4. Now you can fasten the material in accordance with the technology of its installation.
5. The ridge is closed with a sheet of galvanized iron.
6. The pediments are sewn up suitable material(for example, siding or lining).

When the outer part of the roof is installed, it remains only to equip inner space– installation of insulation, waterproofing and conduct Finishing work.

Conclusion

This article talks in detail about how to equip a bath from scratch with your own hands. This process is far from the most time-consuming, especially if you approach it responsibly, and competently to direct execution.

Almost every host own house dreaming of a bath. And even if you are not going to build a bath with your own hands, then you need to at least understand the variety of bath projects and their little secrets.

Did you know that before building a bath, it is important to orient it to the cardinal points? Usually the door to the bath is located on the south side - in winter the snow melts there earlier and you do not have to often clear it. But it is better to place the windows in the west - in the evening they will have more light, because we usually go to the bathhouse in the evenings.

The bath is built of wood, brick, natural stone or concrete structures. The advantage of wooden baths is that they perfectly keep heat and are built from environmentally friendly materials. pure material- spruces or pines. For a bath, from a wooden beam, additional ventilation is not required. The tree "breathes" perfectly, it is enough to install a ventilation grill.

For the construction of the log cabin of the bath, a winter forest is used - it is denser and less prone to decay. Do not rush to start a bath when the log house is ready - it should settle for a year, and only then you can start finishing work.


On the initial stage construction, it is necessary to resolve the issue with the choice of a place such as a bath. It can be erected as a freestanding structure or attached to a house or other residential building.

Many believe that the combination of bath and home can add dampness and bad smell to the house. But, if proper waterproofing, ventilation and sewerage are laid in the bath, then the above-mentioned problems should not be.

On the other hand, a bathhouse made as a separate building is more fireproof, and small veranda at the bathhouse can completely replace your garden gazebo.


A very important point in the construction of a bath is laying the foundation. The foundation can be tape, columnar or pile. For the construction of a do-it-yourself bath, a columnar foundation is considered the best, which consists of concrete piles exposed to a depth of about 1.5 meters. Such a foundation is made of stone, brick or concrete.

To finish the bath inside, it is better to use material from such tree species as poplar, alder or aspen, as they have high moisture resistance and low thermal conductivity. We recommend making floors also from wood, since it heats up slightly. But the tree has a tendency to rot, so it is better to make a collapsible floor and ventilate and dry it in the sun at least once a year.

Shelves in the bath may not be very large. The main thing is that they can sit freely or lie comfortably. The size of the steam room should be about 6 square meters. m. - so you don’t need a lot of firewood for warming up, and not crowded. In a proper Russian bath, the air temperature is about 60 degrees, and the humidity is 40%. Compare with Finnish sauna where the temperature is 90 degrees and the humidity is 10%.

For building a bath with your own hands, an important point is the choice of a stove for heating the steam room. The “lightness” of steam depends on the type of furnace. A brick oven warms up longer, and should stand for about an hour - but the steam is perfect, light. The iron stove warms up quickly, does not threaten with waste, but the steam is harder.

The furnace must be installed on the foundation. In no case should it touch the walls of the bath. Consider the fact that the stove must be positioned so that all the rooms of the bath are heated at once. To date, stoves with an elongated firebox are very popular. Such stoves allow you to heat in the steam room from the dressing room. A good stove evenly distributes heat throughout the bath.

The layout of the bath includes three main rooms: a steam room, a shower room and a relaxation room.

In addition to these rooms, a bathhouse may include a small outdoor pool, because a bathhouse is not only steam and heat, but also hardening on fresh air. After all, after a steam bath, you need to close the pores - and this is best dealt with cold water external reservoir.

If you do not have the opportunity to build a bath from logs, you can choose another construction option from the so-called "wooden bricks".


With such construction, wooden chocks are laid in cement mortar like bricks.


So you will not only save on the construction of a bath, but also get a more fireproof option.


Such a bath looks quite decent inside, and, in addition, in this way you can easily build a so rarely seen tent bath.

The layout of the bath will allow you to carefully consider the required functionality from your bath and more accurately predict your costs and labor costs.

Bath layout 1.

Bath layout 2.

Bath layout 3.

Bath layout 4.

Bath layout 5.

A bathhouse is not an easy place, since ancient times a bathhouse has been rightfully considered a real healer - “In the bathhouse, wash yourself and be born again!” But the bathhouse has its own legends. So in the days of paganism, the Slavs, having heated the baths well and laid out clean clothes there, tightly closed them and left. It was a time when the dead ancestors were soaring.

In early Christian times, the bath was considered a suspicious place. It was forbidden to hang icons in the bath and bring bath utensils into the house. After the bath, a person had to douse himself cold water or plunge into the river - to drive away evil spirits from yourself. After visiting the bath it was impossible to go to church, it was a sin to wash Orthodox holidays as well as on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. Thus, Saturday became a bathing day.

The spirit of the bath - a bathhouse, demanded respect and forbade entering the bath after dark, and taking a bath drunk. It was a big misdemeanor to rush a person steaming in a bath or leave a child unattended in a bath - they could be dragged away by the bath spirit.


If you are going to build on your suburban area bath, we hope you found our little tips useful. And the old traditions that we told you about will help you not only enjoy visiting the bath, but also be extremely careful next to the hot stove and steam.
After all, a do-it-yourself bath is a fascinating and useful thing, you may be interested in getting to know modern options baths in our video:

In the steam room of the Russian bath, unlike the sauna, the humidity is slightly higher. Less shock to the body is and temperature regime: in such a room you can stay for a longer amount of time and thoroughly “steam the bones”. Therefore, most Russians choose a Russian bathhouse.
When hiring a construction team, the cost of construction will double, so if you have at least basic skills, it is better to start building a bath with your own hands. First of all, you need to decide on a building plan. You can make your own or use ready-made drawings and choose the design that is most suitable in size.

Bath projects

Building registration

No permit is required for the construction of ancillary facilities on a private property. However, after the construction is completed, the building must be registered with the BTI.

To avoid conflict with neighbors in the area and regulatory organizations, the rules for drainage should be strictly observed. The bath is considered a sanitary facility and should be located at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the edge of the neighboring area. If there is no separate water outlet, this distance increases to 3.5 m.

The distance between buildings, including neighboring ones, is also regulated. The materials from which the structure is being built are also taken into account. So, if you can leave a distance of 6 m between brick buildings, then between wooden ones - at least 15 m. If the building is being built in the country, then the distance to the forest is also regulated - from 15 m.

Regulated distance between buildings

Calculation of the amount of materials

Most often, baths are built from solid or rounded logs of coniferous species, thick-walled timber, wood concrete or bricks. In recent years, foam concrete has also been used for construction. However, wood is considered the best material for it. Even in the hottest heated bath from this environmentally friendly material, it will be easy and free to breathe.

You will also need crushed stone, sand, cement, reinforcement for the construction of the foundation; lumber for flooring and ceilings, doors and windows, insulation, roofing materials, brick or metal for the stove, etc. Since most wholesalers provide significant discounts, it is advisable to purchase all the materials in one place. The cost of supplying electricity must also be included in the estimate.

A wooden profiled beam is more expensive than a solid log. You can save a little if you use not a bar, but a rounded log. It is much easier to build a building from such materials: you don’t have to “bring to mind” the tree yourself. You can also purchase if you wish. finished log house, disassemble, transfer to your own territory and assemble according to the numbering of logs.

To keep the heat in the building, it is advisable to use a thick-walled beam with a thickness of 150 mm or more. Working with raw logs is much more difficult and requires certain skills. In addition, the beam gives less shrinkage.

Rounded log, regular and profiled timber

The construction of a bathhouse from chopped, rounded logs and timber

To find out the required amount cubic meters , it is necessary to multiply the length of each wall by the height and thickness of the building, and then calculate the sum of the volume of all walls; the thickness of the material can be obtained from the supplier;

When purchasing beams or logs pieces the calculation will be different: the length of all walls along the perimeter will need to be divided by the length of the material (for example, 6 m); then divide the height of the bath (optimal 2.1 m) by the thickness of the walls (from 0.2 m), multiply the resulting number by the number of walls (4) and the number of bars that will be needed to build one crown (i.e. one row, strapping log house).

Building shrinkage

Collect building from a bar preferably in winter period. The fact is that in winter, moisture freezes out more slowly, and the deformation of the material occurs more evenly. By the end of summer, the main subsidence is almost over, and it will be possible to start finishing.

During the construction of the bath from a solid log shrinkage (and hence the finishing of the building) will have to wait much longer - up to 2 years. By the way, that is why you should not agree to the construction of a turnkey bath for a couple of months, which is offered by some companies. The fact is that with insufficient shrinkage of the building, cracks may appear in the cladding. Therefore, before the start of finishing, the building must withstand the allotted time.

Foundation construction

If a ground water in the selected area are deep enough, it makes sense to use the usual. A pile or screw foundation is erected only with a close occurrence of water.

Tape and pile foundation for a bath

Laying the first crown

1. The overhead (first) crown, which is closest to the ground, needs reliable waterproofing. To do this, 2-3 layers of roofing material or other material based on bitumen are laid between it and the base. On top of it, short slats of 15 mm, treated with an antiseptic, are placed in the transverse direction, and only then the logs are laid out.

Laying direction of the rails

2. It is advisable to assemble the log house on the ground, since it is not very convenient to adjust the crown on the foundation. The first crown should be made from the thickest log without knots and blue, and preferably from the tree that is most resistant to decay: larch or oak.

3. All bars of this crown are carefully coated with bitumen. In order for the impregnation to be absorbed into the tree as deeply as possible, it can be mixed with mining. The ends of the logs are not treated so that moisture can evaporate.

4. The way of the mortgage crown is verified by the level with special accuracy. When installing the lower links closest to those in contact with the ground, it is immediately possible to replace them. For this, the logs are simply joined at the corners by the ends, without a lock.

Corner joints of log cabins

The corners between adjacent walls can be connected in log cabins in different ways:

"into the bowl"(sometimes this method is called “in oblo”): a bowl is cut down on the surface of the log with an ax so that neighboring logs enter it halfway; the ends of the logs at the same time go beyond the boundaries of the log house;

"in the paw": such cutting is more laborious and does not tolerate mistakes; at the corners, a lock is selected from the logs (a spike is being prepared on one side of the log, and a groove on the other); The main difficulty lies in keeping exact dimensions joint.

When cutting "into a bowl", the parts protruding at the corners of the building are able to reliably cover the joint from rain and snow. Plus, this cutting is much easier. At the same time, the building looks “antique”, but its external cladding will not be possible.

Corner connections log cabins

Log house assembly

1. The logs should fit together as tightly as possible. The seams between them are laid with a sealant: tow or jute. The gap between the flashing crown and the foundation is additionally sealed with bricks, mounting foam, halves of logs or bars. It is also possible to provide filling multi-level foundation, which will prevent the appearance of cracks.

Foundation with different levels

2. When assembling a building from an unprofiled beam, to prevent logs from torsion, they are planted on dowels- strong rods made of metal or wood.

Nagels

3. During the shrinkage of the structure, doors and windows may jam. To avoid their deformation, they use a pigtail - boxes that are installed in door and window openings, with special grooves. With shrinkage and movement of the structure, windows or doors will move along such grooves with it. It can be of two types: U-shaped and T-shaped

4. Be sure to leave a 3-4 cm seam above each opening to compensate for movement. After shrinkage of the structure, it is closed with cash.

Important! A sealant (linen or jute fabric) must be placed under the pigtail. Mounting foam will prevent the shrinkage of logs, so its use is undesirable. Grooves and ridges after installation must be caulked.

Pigtail for windows and grooves in window openings for her

5. Top crown (mauerlat) will serve as a support for the roof. Just as in the case of the crown crown, the most durable logs without defects are selected for it.

Video: Do-it-yourself bath construction in stages
Part 1

Part 2

Part 3

Part 4

Part 5

Part 6

Do you want to build a bath, but do not know what material is best to use to implement your idea? Then be sure to pay attention to the beam. A bath made of this material will be environmentally friendly, reliable and durable. At the same time, you can handle the construction of such a structure with your own hands.

There is absolutely nothing complicated in the self-construction of a bath from a bar. This material has many advantages over its closest analogue - a rounded log (log). Among the main advantages of the beam, the following points should be noted:

However, in order for a bath from a bar to fully show all its advantages and serve for the longest possible time, you must approach the choice of building material responsibly and competently.

What kind of timber can be used to build a bath?

The most important operational parameters of the finished steam room directly depend on the quality of the wood. First of all, pay attention that the logs are intact. No cracks or other defects are allowed. Even minor damage can lead to big trouble in the future, as a result of which the wood will rot and collapse.

Make sure that there are no blue spots on the surface of the wood. Such defects indicate the presence of rot inside the material, the development of which in most cases is provoked by a variety of pathogens. It is impossible to use such material for the construction of a steam room and any other building.

There should be no noticeable signs of damage by beetles and other pests on the timber.

High-quality timber has a perfectly flat and smooth surface. It is strongly recommended to refrain from buying material with distortions and any other damage - when laying the crowns, all deviations will clearly appear.

Bath building guide

Pre-compile yourself, order or find a bath project in an open source. Calculate the required amount for the project building materials and start building a bath from a bar. Start by arranging the base.

The first stage is the foundation

A finished steam room made of wood will have relatively little big weight, which allows you to abandon the arrangement of monolithic buried foundation structures. A structure made of timber will feel great on an ordinary strip or column foundation.

To equip the base of the tape type, dig a trench along the perimeter and under the walls of the future building, fill the bottom of the pit with sand and gravel, lay the reinforcing mesh, install the formwork and pour concrete. The optimal foundation depth is 70-100 cm. When choosing a specific depth, be guided by the soil freezing rates for your region.

Strip foundation - the order of construction

The foundation should rise above the ground by at least 50 cm - this will provide the necessary protection of the lower rims from excessive dampness.

Inside the perimeter of the strip base, pour strips of sand and gravel. In the future, you can fill them with concrete or build a wooden floor - choose a specific option at your discretion.

For arrangement column foundation it is necessary to build supports made of bricks or concreted asbestos pipes around the perimeter, in the corners and under the future internal walls of the bath. Under each such support, a concrete “cushion” should be pre-arranged. Place the posts in 150 cm increments.

Regardless of the type of base chosen, it is in without fail subject to additional reinforcement.

Let the concrete gain strength for 3-5 weeks and proceed with further work.

The second stage - waterproofing the foundation

Apply molten bitumen to the surface of the base, and a layer of roofing material on it. Let the bitumen harden and repeat the operations. As a result, you will get a reliable two-layer moisture protection.

Before proceeding with further work, impregnate all wooden elements with an antiseptic. Such processing should be carried out after the preparation of cuts for fastening the beams, if such cuts were absent initially.

The third stage - the first crown

Proceed to laying the first crown of walls. To do this, first lay the slats up to 1.5 cm thick, pre-treated with an antiseptic, on a waterproofed base. Lay the slats in increments of about 30 cm.

Lay the first crown of bars on the slats. Thanks to the slats, the contact of the beam with the foundation of the bath will be excluded. This will provide additional protection against wood decay and will significantly extend the life of the material.

Lay the first crown so far without fixing. Make sure that it is laid correctly and evenly with a square and a level.

If necessary, align the lower crown beams, and then attach them to the foundation. There are several mounting methods. The most optimal and frequently used method involves fixing the beam with anchor bolts.

However, quite often developers refuse to mount lower beam to the foundation. In practice, the design stands perfectly even without fixing the lower crown, held by its own weight. The advantage of this solution is that in the future, if necessary, the beam of the lower crown can be replaced with much less effort.

Blow out the space between the first crown and the base with mounting foam.

Fourth stage - the rest of the crowns

Ideal for bath walls wooden beam section 15x15 cm.

Cover the first crown of the beam heat-insulating material. For insulation, jute or moss is traditionally used. You can also use tow. In the case of moss or tow, the thermal insulation should be laid out with a 10 cm overlap at the edges. In the future, you will use the raised edges for the caulk.

Lay the second crown of the beam and fix it with wooden dowels. Pre-drill mounting holes of the appropriate diameter. Usually the length of one dowel is enough to fasten 2-3 rows of timber.

Lay out the walls of the required height. Every 3-4 rows, check the construction with a square and a building level. Place a sealant between the crowns.

The top two crowns do not need to be fixed. The wood will shrink. Ceiling beams can only be installed after the wood has dried. To install the beams, the upper crowns will need to be dismantled.

Fifth stage - door and window openings

There are two options for arranging openings for mounting doors and installing windows.

In accordance with the first option, the said holes are created after the construction of the log bath is completed. To do this, you must first leave small gaps in the crowns at the installation sites of doors and windows. The dimensions of the gaps depend on the dimensions of the installed products.

After the construction of the bath is completed, you will simply have to make openings for mounting doors and windows with a chainsaw.

In accordance with the second method, openings for doors and windows must be left during the construction of the bath. This option requires more time and effort. To accomplish the task, you will need to use special grooves and bars with end cuts.

The sixth stage - caulk

Leave the finished timber box for "wintering" for a duration of 6-7 months. During this time, the wood will give sufficient shrinkage. For the period of "wintering" cover the beam with boards and slate.

If you used tow or moss as an interventional sealant, you can skip this step in the instructions - you will most likely not need additional caulking for your timber bath.

However, experts still recommend studying the state of the structure. If noticeable gaps are found, be sure to caulk. To do this, twist the tow or moss into a bundle and twist the material into the gap, followed by compaction.

You can also use jute sealant to fill the gaps. By most indicators, this material is superior to tow and moss, but it costs a little more.

Stage seven - the roof

The roof should become a reliable protection for your timber bath. The arrangement of the roof structure can only be started after the wood shrinks, otherwise the roof will lead and it will be significantly deformed.

First step. Lay wooden beams on top of the top wall trim.

Second step. Attach the rafter legs to the fixed beams in 100 cm increments. To connect the rafters in the ridge part of the roof, cut them at the required angle.

Third step. Nail a solid plank deck to the rafters (if soft wood is to be used for finishing). roll material) or build a crate (if you plan to trim the roof with tiles, slate or other sheet material).

Fourth step. Mount the finish roofing in accordance with the instructions for the selected material.

Fifth step. Cover the roof ridge with galvanized iron. This will protect it from adverse environmental influences.

Sixth step. Sew up the gables of the roof with suitable improvised materials - clapboard, wooden board or siding. At this point, focus on your individual preferences.

After finishing roofing works proceed to the insulation and other insulation work, interior decoration and arrangement of the steam room in accordance with your project.

Successful work!

Video - Building a bath with your own hands

Every person at least once in his life visited a sauna or a steam room. The feeling of being in a hot bath is impossible to forget. Bath procedures contribute to the rejuvenation and healing of the body. Many owners of their own plots are not averse to building a special room equipped for warm washing. The easiest way is to order a finished project from professionals, but you can try to build a bath with your own hands. This will significantly save family budget to gain invaluable experience.

Advantages and disadvantages of self-build

Building a bath with your own hands in the garden is a complex, but creative and creative process. Self-construction is quite popular. Among the main advantages of the work on your own can be distinguished:

• the possibility of using a project developed in accordance with personal needs, taking into account the preferences of all family members;
• savings, the owner himself manages the allocated budget, and does not pay the amount announced by the contractor;
• it is possible to build in stages, investing small amounts;
• confidence in the quality of purchased building materials;
• obtaining and accumulating experience, it will be useful in the construction of other buildings;
• pride in a structure built by oneself, which one can brag to friends and relatives.

The disadvantages of self-construction of the bath include:

• the need to study existing projects, drawing up your own scheme;
• acquisition, transportation of building materials and equipment, the cost of purchasing the tools required to perform the work;
• low construction speed of the structure, experienced builders will build a steam room much faster;
• full responsibility for all stages of work, from the poured foundation to the erection of walls and roofs, the installation of windows and doors;
• difficulty in locating heating equipment, wiring utilities;
• you should be completely confident in your abilities, if there is not enough time, patience, funds, then as a result an unfinished object may appear on the plot.

Design and layout features

When building a bath, it is initially necessary to determine the location. It can be equipped in the house, attached to it, or made a separate structure. But as practice shows, many developers who have chosen the option combined with the main building regret it. Another important aspect is the orientation to the cardinal points. For example, for practical reasons, it is better to place windows from the south or from the west. It is also worth observing the standards for distances between buildings, taking into account the remoteness of the building from the boundaries of the site, a private house, the distance to the reservoir.

The construction of a sauna, like any other structure, begins with the preparation of a project. When designing it, the estimated number of family members who will visit it at the same time, the layout of the site, the allocated area, and the amount of money are taken into account. The scheme may include several rooms, including a steam room, a washing room, a dressing room, a swimming pool, a billiard room, and other rooms. When drawing up a drawing, you should take care of all important points, include everything you need in it, which will allow you to do without additional extensions, redevelopment of the building in the future.

According to the current legislation, no permits are required to build a bathhouse on your own site, since it is an auxiliary facility. But when drafting a steam room, you should Special attention focus on architecture and fire safety, it is recommended to study the following regulations: SNiP 21-01-97 * "Fire safety of buildings and structures", SNiP 3.04.01-87 "Insulating and finishing coatings", SP 1.13130.2009 "Systems fire protection. Evacuation routes and exits”, SNiP II-L.13-62 “Baths. Design standards".

Optimal area

The main room, without which it is impossible to imagine a bath, is a steam room. Shelves are located here, an oven is installed. Also, the main rooms include a washing or shower room, a dressing room, which also acts as a place to relax, a dressing room. If the building is planned to be used year-round, then it is supplemented with a vestibule, which helps to retain heat. When designing a bath, determining its dimensions, a number of important points are taken into account:

• its location on the site, whether it is a separate structure or acts as an extension to the house;
• heater power level;
• the number of visitors;
• the size of the plot, the amount of free space on it;
• wall thickness, the presence of insulation, the finish used.

• the height of the ceiling in the "Russian" or "Finnish" bath should be more than 2.1 m;
• the minimum size of the steam room per visitor must be at least 850 x 1150 mm or 0.98 sq. m;
• dressing room - 1000 x 2150 mm or 2.15 sq. m;
• washing - 1150 x 1300 mm or 1.49 sq. m.

The given values ​​are conditional. They are calculated based on the average height of a person. When planning, the parameters of all family members should be taken into account. For a separate building, the ratio of the steam room, washing room, dressing room is recommended to be 1: 1.5: 2 parts, respectively. In reality, it all depends on the wishes of the owner.

Zoning of the premises

For large buildings, zoning is not necessary. Here you can freely provide for private room for a steam room and a washing room, a billiard room and a swimming pool, a dining room and a locker room, place a furnace and a bathroom. However, sometimes the owners of the bath need to properly equip it, dividing the rest room into useful functional areas.

If you approach the issue correctly, then even the only room for relaxation can be made multifunctional. Here you can eat, have a tea party, relax on the sofa, watching your favorite TV shows, play billiards, spend time comfortably with friends, discussing the latest news. Also in the rest room, you can provide for a locker room, organize a place to store bath accessories.

For zoning, you can use different tricks. Partitions, windows, artificial lighting, existing pieces of furniture will help to highlight the functional areas, you can also use different finishing materials. When planning, experts recommend dividing the dining area from the living room, for example, placing a billiard table between them. To create additional comfort, a fireplace placed in one of the corners, complemented by a pair of armchairs, will help.

Outdoor extensions - terraces, verandas, gazebos and a barbecue area

An external extension to the bath can be provided at the design stage, or, if necessary, expand the existing structure. It often happens that a structure is built first, and then, due to various circumstances, it becomes necessary to increase it. An extension can have a different purpose, and its variety depends on the available premises.

When expanding the bath or including additional functional areas in it, very often a vestibule, a veranda, a terrace, a balcony, a gazebo, a summer kitchen, a barbecue area are added to the project. The simplest extension is a vestibule, canopy or porch. Also does not call special difficulties the construction of a terrace, it is more laborious to build an open or glazed veranda, and in the construction of two-story buildings, a balcony is often provided.

If funds permit, one of the best solutions are a built gazebo or summer cuisine with stove or barbecue. The stove allows you to improve the overall appearance of the bath, enjoy a delicious fragrant dinner, maintain a comfortable air temperature. However, it should be remembered that the stove has a fairly large weight, so when building it, special attention should be paid to the construction of a reinforced foundation.

Internal additional rooms

Undoubtedly, the central room of any bath is the steam room. In fact, this is not the only room that plays an important role. In the building, you can provide many other useful rooms that make it very comfortable and cozy. One of them is a leisure room in which you can place various interior items. The main thing when equipping this area is the choice of high-quality furniture and finishing materials that can last for a long time in conditions of high humidity.

In large buildings, it is possible to provide for the presence of a separate pool. After going to the steam room, many people like not to douse themselves from buckets, take a summer shower, but immediately dive completely into cool water. However, the construction of the pool requires engineering communications. To fill it, a large amount of water will be required, so it will not be possible to do with a simple drain, a good drainage system will be required. An alternative to a full-fledged pool can be a small font, which looks like a small wooden barrel or a large trough that can simultaneously accommodate several people.

Considering finished projects, you can find baths with a billiard room, a bathroom, a kitchen. Separately, it is worth noting the buildings, which include residential premises. They can be called full-fledged houses that are in demand in the country. Such projects have their fans and opponents. When choosing such a design, you must first think about the high humidity in the house, pay attention to fire safety, for example, use gas and electric stoves.

Communication design

It is impossible to use a bath or sauna normally, which is characterized by high humidity and temperature, without properly designed and built communications. Here, engineering networks are subject to increased requirements related to their safe operation. Particular attention should be paid to water supply, drainage, electricity and ventilation.

Even at the design stage, it is necessary to calculate the volume of water consumption, the number of water intake points. It is also required to determine in advance the mode of operation (seasonal, year-round). If the structure is not heated in winter, it should be possible to drain water from the entire system so that it does not freeze at low temperatures.

Arrangement of ventilation is quite possible to do it yourself. It is enough to install two windows in the bath. One of them will provide an influx of cold air, the other will serve to exit heated and waterlogged oxygen. There is natural and forced ventilation. In the second case, either expensive automatic systems are used that maintain the set temperature and humidity in the room, or a budget option, which implies the presence of fans located on the ventilation windows.

When organizing electricity in a bath, one should adhere to existing norms and standards, for example, comply with GOST R 50571.12–96. When choosing a cable, it is recommended to pay attention to the fact that it can withstand temperatures up to 180 degrees. Among heat-resistant products, RKGM, PVKV, PRKS, PMTK, and others can be distinguished. Sockets must be heat-resistant, waterproof, have hidden installation. The degree of safety of fittings must comply with IP-44/IP-65 standards. It is worth remembering about protective automation (RCD), which must be included in the wiring project.

What bath to build - types of steam rooms

Many peoples of the world in the process of their development have their own unique traditions in the arrangement and use of baths. Among the most common types are Russian, Finnish, Roman, Turkish, Irish, Japanese, Chinese bath complexes. Each of them is characterized by its size, shape, design, air temperature, its humidity. Let us dwell in more detail on the most common types of these structures in the world.

Russian

The main feature of the Russian bath is that the body is steamed in warm air saturated with water vapor. Its temperature is 50-70 degrees and humidity 40-65%. The traditionally classical building consists of a dressing room, washing department, steam rooms. The steam room is the main place in the building. The main attribute is the oven. Only firewood is used for its firebox.

To maintain the temperature, a red-hot furnace is poured with water and infusions. medicinal herbs, due to which “light steam” is formed, after which it becomes easier to breathe in a humidified room. Larch boards are used to finish the walls and shelves. The shelves themselves are in the form of steps, located near the furnace. The temperature on the lower steps is 50 degrees, while on the highest steps it can reach 100 degrees and more.

In the washing room, buckets of water are usually placed, showers, if the area allows, they equip fonts and even build pools. Previously, the dressing room was used as a dressing room. Now it is equipped with a rest room, divided into different functional areas, used as a place for a comfortable and cozy pastime with family or friends.

Finnish

The main distinguishing feature of the Finnish bath is that it is heated with dry steam. This type of sauna is the hottest. In the steam room, the air temperature reaches 70-100 degrees, while its humidity rarely exceeds 8-20%. It is low humidity that allows a person to withstand high temperatures, while its increase by 5-10% can lead to skin burns, in the worst case, to death.

One more feature the sauna is an oven. Nowadays, an ordinary wood-burning stove is rarely installed here; instead, they use compact electric stoves made of of stainless steel and galvanized alloys. Unlike the Russian bath, the stones here are not laid inside the stove, but on its surface. This arrangement provides faster heating, respectively, and cooling is much faster.

The duration of the first entry into the steam room should not exceed 3-5 minutes, so as not to overheat. After that, it is recommended to take a shower, plunge into the pool and relax in the relaxation room. Starting from the next visits, their duration can be gradually increased, but the maximum period of time should not exceed 15 minutes, even for experienced people, and their total number is 3-6 times.

Chinese

In China, there is a whole bath culture. The main component of the bath are wooden sandals and massage combined with manual therapy. The bath begins with a bathroom, in which there are several jacuzzis. In each individual bath, the water has a different temperature: cold, warm, hot. Aromatic oils and rose petals must be added to the water.

In the same room there are also special steam cabins. Unlike the Russian steam room, special steam generators are produced here, which are not able to give out the hot heat coming from traditional heaters. Some bath projects include special snow rooms, where the air temperature is maintained at minus 10 degrees, and artificial snow is produced.

After visiting the steam room, a person should follow for a massage. The procedures begin with dousing with warm water, after which the attendant begins to rub the whole body with a towel or sponge wrapped around his hand. This procedure takes at least half an hour. After the body is covered with a cool towel, the back massage begins. Upon completion of the procedures, you can again go to the steam room, having previously poured milk and honey.

The main distinguishing feature of the Turkish bath is high humidity in the steam room, it reaches 100% at relatively low temperatures of 45-50 degrees. As a result, a person is completely immersed in steam, all his muscles relax, blood circulation normalizes. In addition to the traditional warming up of the body, a visit to the hammam includes a number of additional procedures: peeling, wrapping, massage.

Wood is not used in the construction of the steam room. To finish the steam room, ceramic tiles are used, in more expensive options - natural marble. It is very comfortable to lie on the heated marble. Bath heating can be carried out in two ways, using water or electric heating. The first option is the most profitable, heating of all surfaces is carried out using pipes laid under the lining.

A mandatory attribute for a hammam is a steam generator that provides high humidity. The device is equipped with a special sensor, it automatically turns off the system if the room temperature exceeds 55 degrees. Thanks to this steam room device, the hair and skin are moisturized, the existing tan is not washed off the body, but, on the contrary, is fixed on it.

How to choose a building site

It is customary to begin the construction of a bath with choosing the most suitable place and drawing up a construction plan. When preparing calculations, it is important to comply with the rules and regulations that govern the conditions for the location of the steam room in the residential sector. A specific building must be located at a distance of at least 1 meter from the boundary of the neighboring site. If there are neighbors in the yard wooden buildings, from them to the bath should be more than 15 meters.

A separate bathhouse or made as an extension to the house can only be built taking into account the rules, regulations regarding natural, vegetative, protected areas. The permissible distance to a reservoir is 5 meters, an artificial well with drinking water is 12 meters, tall trees are 4 meters, and a forest area is 15 meters.

In the house

Plan the construction of a steam room in the house should be at the design stage of the building. The bath will require special waterproofing, finishing, processing of materials. More often they make mini-rooms, but spacious enough for a comfortable stay. The advantages of planning a residential building along with a bathhouse include the following factors:

• Saving space in the garden;
• The ability to move freely around the rooms, without the need to go outside;
• Simplified furnace. All necessary materials are in a residential area;
• Close proximity to the bathroom.

The disadvantages of organizing a bath right in the house include a high fire hazard. Even high-quality and systematic treatment of the premises with flame retardants does not provide 100% protection against fire and smoke. Additional insulation will also be required. Due to the high humidity, you will have to do complex ventilation. Good air exchange can be ensured by installing expensive internal equipment.

Extension to the house

It is possible to attach a bathhouse to a residential building only if the house is made of brick, foam blocks. In other cases too proximity may not be safe. You can use a ready-made terrace or fill a separate section with a foundation for a sauna. Before laying the floor covering, it is necessary to consider good protection from moisture, high-quality sewer drain.

You can make a bath extension 2 years after the shrinkage of the main residential building. It is easy to bring communications into the room and make it heated. Among the disadvantages can be noted a high risk of fire due to open fire. The danger increases if the frame part of the dacha extension is made of budget timber, poorly processed wood materials. Dirt and debris from the furnace easily enter the house, and high humidity destroys the wall covering, leading to inevitable frequent repairs.

Freestanding

The best option for building a bath on the site. The easiest way to make it from a log house. You will need a lightweight foundation, a beam for making a truss truss, the main material for the walls. Construction will take a minimum of time. You can safely implement your favorite design and furnace equipment with any characteristics.

Of the minuses, one can note the use of an impressive area for construction and a large number of building materials, improvised means. Due to the remoteness from a residential building, heating costs will increase, and attempts to save money will lead to a deterioration in technical parameters.

What material is best to build

Many owners of suburban areas dream of their own bath. But to build it according to all the rules is not at all easy. Due to the presence of the furnace, very stringent requirements are imposed on such buildings. When choosing the main material, it is necessary to rely not only on the price and ease of building a home sauna, but also take into account compliance with the conditions inside the steam room.

Baths are built more often from wood or brick. These materials are able to provide high thermal insulation performance. They do not emit toxic compounds when heated, have high resistance to a humid environment. Each type has its own characteristics and is used for the construction of a steam room, taking into account its size, number of storeys, and climatic indicators.

From a wooden beam

The structure of wood perfectly retains heat, quickly removes toxins and gases. The light weight of the bath allows you to install building materials without additional reinforcement of the foundation. Special characteristics are given to the structure by the type of rock. Among the popular varieties are the following:

• Pine. Budget material has an attractive appearance, light shade and sufficient moisture resistance. Due to the release of resin during heating, the formation of mold is slowed down. It is not recommended to finish the steam room with pine, because when heated, thick juice is released, which can easily burn the skin.
• Linden. Due to the low moisture resistance, only varieties that have undergone special processing are suitable for the manufacture of baths. A material with excellent heat resistance begins to darken after a couple of years.
• Aspen. The density of the golden rock only increases with time, making it difficult to process and repair. Waterproof material perfectly retains heat, but is not included in the category of budget breeds.
• Alder. Boards with a beautiful reddish tint practically do not shrink, but quickly darken when in contact with moisture.

from brick

The main advantage of brickwork is durability. A bath made of such material will quietly last up to 20 years. There is no need for additional cladding, since the brick itself looks attractive. Also, an indisputable advantage in favor of this type of bath will be its incombustibility, the absence of fungus and mold on the walls.

The considerable weight of the brick involves the installation of a strip base under the steam room. This increases the lead time construction works. First you need to pour the concrete foundation, wait for it to harden completely, then install it in stages brick walls and roof.

You can build a bath from red or gas silicate bricks. For any of the types, it will take at least 1 hour to warm up. Also, the building will need to be insulated with inside. For laying out the hearth and other places in contact with open fire, fireclay bricks are used.

The brick does not allow air to pass through, so when building a bath, you need to take care of good ventilation.

From foam blocks

Affordable material will allow you to quickly build a strong building. Cellular blocks of the correct rectangular shape are processed in autoclaves, which gives them all the necessary characteristics. The light weight of the elements allows you to build a bath structure without additional strengthening of the foundation. Blocks are cut into pieces with a simple hacksaw. Installation takes place using a special cement adhesive.

The disadvantages include the hygroscopicity of the material. But special processing allows you to reduce the output of heat to the outside. For the construction of a bath, foam blocks of the lowest density and thermal conductivity are suitable.

Bath foundation

The base for the bath must be selected before erection, since it will no longer be possible to change it after pouring the concrete. The main task of the foundation uniform distribution ground loads. The service life of the entire building will depend on the type of construction. There are several options for concrete pouring, differing in the method of installation. When building steam rooms, the following options are most often used:

• Pile. Apply on soils slightly saturated with moisture. According to the principle of installation, it is divided into pile-screw, pile-driven, columnar. The selection of the appropriate installation technology depends on the extent and direction of the earth movement.
• Tape. A wide concrete strip is installed around the perimeter of the entire building. This approach simplifies the construction of the walls of the bath, it is not necessary to further strengthen the structure. You can make a purely tape or block base.
• Monolithic. cement mortar poured around the entire perimeter of the future building. The thickness of the solid slab must be at least 30 cm.

What to heat - the choice of furnace

When choosing a stove for a bath, first of all, you need to pay attention to power. This indicator should correspond to the volume of the steam room. Also, the presence of non-insulated areas, the material for making the door are taken into account. By type of fuel, stoves for a bath are as follows:

• Wood. The classic version of the firebox allows you to create a special atmosphere. For the ubiquitous tree, no additional communications are required. You can independently harvest all kinds of varieties to create a different effect.
• Gas. Units of impressive size can only be connected by a qualified gasman. In such stoves, there is no need to constantly throw firewood and control the flame. They don't have a firebox or an ash pan. Gas furnaces significantly increase the fire hazard of the entire structure.
• Electric furnaces. Miniature fixtures evenly and quickly warm up the room. Installations are absolutely safe, with great functionality. Due to the high consumption of electricity, the cost of operation will be high.

Step-by-step instructions for building a free-standing bath

Having decided to make a cozy bath in your summer cottage, it is not necessary to seek help from specialists. Even with little experience in construction, such a building can be organized independently. First, they draw up a project and select materials. At this stage, it is important to consider geographical position buildings and their operating conditions. The following erection procedures are performed step by step.

Site preparation for construction

When a suitable site is selected and the material is delivered, you can begin to prepare the site for construction. Depending on the specifics of the soil, the type of foundation is determined. Construction site should be level with a slight slope to drain water.

First, they draw the outline of the future foundation and remove all vegetation from the soil. Then pegs are driven in around the perimeter, based on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building. From the columns with nailed boards, a cast-off is made and the axial dimensions of the foundation contour are applied.

At the next stage, they begin to dig a pit, pits for pillars or trenches. When the required depth is reached, special shields are installed to prevent soil shedding. After excavation is completed, they are removed.

For a free-standing bath from a bar, a columnar foundation is suitable. The budget base will calmly withstand a relatively light wooden structure. Then they dig the required number of holes with a certain step. Be sure to have supports in the corners, at the intersection of the walls.

Crushed stone and sand fall asleep at the bottom of the pit. Then install asbestos-cement pipe strictly vertical and fixed. Fittings are placed inside and a concrete solution is poured. A few days later, after waiting for complete solidification, a small half-brick wall is laid out between the pipes around the perimeter.

Building walls and roofing

More often, for the construction of a free-standing bath, a beam of 15 x 15 cm is used. They begin to install the first crown after laying the waterproofing and carefully processing the materials in contact with the base. There are several ways to join the bars: on rectangular dowels, in a root tenon, using the dovetail method. When building walls, the crowns are connected using special wooden, metal pins - dowels.

The next step is to install the roof. First, a suitable roof shape is selected, the rafters are installed according to the plan. Then the supports are erected and securely fixed. Lathing boards are attached to them, covered waterproofing material, insulation, mount the selected roofing material.

Heat and vapor barrier

Regardless of the type of stove chosen, any steam room will always have high temperature and humidity. The insulating layer helps to retain heat for a long time. The following types of materials are suitable for use in the construction of a bath:

• Film. Dense webs can be smooth, rough with reinforcement. This insulation option is cheap.
• Membrane. Non-woven material is laid on top of the insulation. It perfectly protects from condensate and moisture.
• Foil sheets. A special coating of foil, metal lavsan effectively retains heat in a steam room of any size.

Interior finishing work - what materials are better to use

Internal finishing work must begin with the communications device. sewerage point, passageway water pipes, electricity should be laid down at the design stage.

After installation work on laying communications, they proceed to the manufacture of the finishing floor. It can be concrete or wood. Cement pouring will be durable, after hardening it is additionally tiled. Wooden flooring is made leaky, a small gap is left between the lags and floor boards.

After the windows and doorway are installed, you can proceed to the interior decoration of the walls of the bath. Application synthetic materials ruled out, because when heated, they release harmful substances. The best type of finish is natural wood. It could be sanded edged board, blockhouse, lining. When choosing suitable option it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of each breed and the characteristics of the varieties.

Installing the stove and shelves

Shelves for relaxing in the bath should fit the size of the room and be made of wood materials. First, a stable frame is made of timber, then polished boards are attached to it.

Each owner chooses the oven himself, depending on personal preferences. If it is a heavy unit, it is installed on a special foundation. Installation is carried out according to all fire safety requirements. All wooden structures near open flames must be well insulated.

Bath design and decoration

A huge selection of finishing materials allows you to create stylish interior indoors, realizing the most daring idea. When choosing the right style, one should not forget about functionality and convenience. Excessive piling up of unnecessary items will create a feeling of heaviness and isolation.

For decoration in the Russian style, wood items are suitable. Buckets, wooden ladles can be placed on stands and shelves in the steam room. Woven rugs will serve as a decor for the floor in the rest room, and wooden grates in the washing room. The walls will be decorated with oak brooms and hats for a steam room with cheerful inscriptions.

Chalet style suggests the presence of only female or male items. These can be tea utensils, bouquets of fragrant herbs, beautiful tablecloths or hunter's accessories. Modern style will not do without elements of luxury. The ceilings in the steam room and the rest room are made high, multi-tiered. Successful accents are created by lighting.

What furniture to choose for a bath

The amount of furniture in the bath depends on its size. To organize a dressing room, it is enough to install a wooden hanger. The number of hooks can be calculated from total number visitors, 3-4 pieces per person. To store towels detergents, sheets can provide a small wall cabinet. It is desirable to install a bench under the hanger, which will serve as a place for folding clothes while changing clothes.

In the rest room in the dining area must be present wooden table surrounded by chairs or benches. When organizing a place to relax, you can provide a sofa, soft chairs. On the walls, shelves should be placed for storing dishes and bath accessories, while bulky closed cabinet better not to use.