Floor in the washing bath: types and installation. How to insulate the floor in the bath in the washing room: features and varieties of floors, do-it-yourself insulation Filling floor in the washing department of the bath

The floor in the washing room is always made with a mandatory slope of the surface to the drain hole. This allows you to effectively remove water from the room and does not allow moisture to linger on the floor for a long time. The task of arranging the slope of the entire plane to one point is solved in various ways and the choice of a method depends on the design of a particular bath. If this is a building on a strip foundation, then a warm concrete or insulated wooden floor with ceramic granite tiles is more often used. In baths on screw piles and columnar foundations, it is more preferable to use a wooden pouring floor.

If a tape structure is used as a base, then both a wooden pouring floor and concrete floors on the ground can be made. Consider an example of making a warm floor based on a screed finished with ceramic tiles.

Preparation of communications for draining is carried out even at the stage before pouring the concrete tape. The main thing here is to observe the slope of the pipe at least 2-3 cm per meter. The optimal location of the drain hole is in the center of the room, since the water drain organized at this point will provide the most efficient collection of drains from the entire floor surface.

If there is a fertile layer of earth under the future floor, then it should be completely removed and sprinkled with a layer of sand 15-20 cm thick. Then this layer is spilled with water and compacted with a manual rammer. When the surface is leveled and dense enough, a 50 mm thick extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) insulation is laid on top of the sand.

Small sections of heat-insulating plates are installed along the perimeter, after which foil waterproofing is laid on them. The joints between the strips of material are glued with foil waterproofing tape so that the waterproofing layer is completely sealed and does not let moisture into the insulation.

Further, low objects are laid out on the hydrobarrier, on which a metal mesh is installed to reinforce the future concrete slab. A heated floor heating tape is attached to the grid with a wire and this entire structure is poured with a concrete solution 10 cm thick.

As a finishing coating on a concrete screed, porcelain tiles are usually glued.

Thanks to the active underfloor heating system installed in the concrete slab, it will be comfortable to use such a sink even in the cold season.

Pouring wooden floor in the bath on stilts

The floors in the bath on piles require careful observance of the installation technology, since improper ventilation of the underground space leads to the rapid decay of wooden structural elements.

Let us first consider the scheme for arranging a concrete screed, as a more complex, but also more durable solution to the issue of organizing a floor for a bath on a columnar or pile foundation.

First of all, at the level of the lower plane of the wooden beams, the subfloor flooring is attached.

If you look closely at the beams, you can see that the boards are not nailed to the bottom of the joists, but are installed on a small support, fixed on the inside of the beam. This support is called the cranial bar and its location is well shown in the following diagram.

Also in this plan, you can see the sequence of placement of each of the necessary layers when constructing a concrete slab and pouring floor from a wooden board. The only thing that is not indicated here is a waterproofing flooring, which is desirable to be placed on top of a concrete screed to protect it from constant contact with water.

The following diagram describes an effective solution for arranging insulated concrete floors without expanded clay spillage. Here, both mineral wool and extruded polystyrene foam boards can act as thermal protection.

In practice, often a concrete screed is not made, but a simple pouring floor system is made that does not require grouting. The beginning of work is the same as in the previous version.

Mineral wool is laid between the lags on the rough flooring. A drain valve is installed to ensure efficient water flow.

In the direction from the walls to the hole, wooden guides are arranged in such a way as to form a general slope at one point.

On top of the guides, sheets of galvanized steel with a slight overlap on the walls are attached to the screws.

The floors in the bath are not at all a trifle, as it might seem initially. The way they are installed differs from the technologies used in residential premises, primarily in that bath floors are part of the sewer system. With proper installation, the bath compartments will be dry, despite the constant humidity in these rooms. And this means the absence of mold, fungus and a long service life of this institution, which is cult for all Russians. There are different methods of flooring in the bath, so you need to choose an acceptable one and adapt it to your building. Bath floors can be made independently, you just need to have a general understanding of the principles of their installation and the differences between the schemes.

Laying floors in the washroom

Washing area, perhaps, the main room of the bath. Here, between short visits to the steam room, visitors spend most of their time.

In the washing compartment, water constantly flows in large volumes, which is why maximum attention should be paid to the arrangement of this bath area. Especially when laying floors, since they are the most exposed to moisture and temperature changes, it depends on them whether the washroom will be comfortable and warm or uncomfortable and cold.

There is always a lot of water in the washing room, so the floors should be well ventilated and dry quickly.

The high humidity of this room puts forward special requirements for flooring so that they do not collapse in a fairly short time. Washroom floors should:

• resist thermal shocks and do not let in a draft;
• be breathable and dry quickly;
• ensure normal ventilation, free outflow of water, acceptable temperature of the floor covering.

With these requirements in mind, the owner of the bath must consider all types of floors and choose the most suitable one. Moreover, it is necessary to decide on the materials for the floor even before pouring the screed.

Floor structures for washing

The temperature of the surface of the bath floor rarely exceeds 30 °C, because the floor should be warm, not hot, pleasant even for bare feet, and not so that even bath slippers will melt. Therefore, you can use any material for its assembly - wood, tile, clay, concrete and others.

Do not use synthetic coatings. Chemistry has no place where high temperature and humidity are present.

Every floor covering has its pros and cons:

Consider the most common options for bath floors.

Wooden floor in the washroom

Hardwood and coniferous lumber is suitable for its arrangement: cedar, spruce, oak, ash, larch, fir. It is better to choose softwoods, since the resin they produce significantly increases the life of the floors. In addition, the tree has a healing effect on the body, and wet wooden flooring does not slip, and this is additional safety for visitors.

The advantages of wooden floors include:

• simplicity and ease of installation;
• naturalness, environmental friendliness and durability;
• low labor cost.

The disadvantages are the following:

If you settled on wooden floors, then you should know that, depending on the drain device, they are of two types: leaking and non-leaking structures.

In turn, leaking floors differ in the laying pattern:

Consider the sequence of work for the installation of leaking floors.

1. A hole is dug in the middle of the basement.
2. A trench breaks from its bottom in the direction of the drain cuvette, in which a sewer (drainage) pipe is laid with an inclination towards the water collector by about 3–4 ° (approximate difference in height over the entire trench is 5 cm per linear meter).

   The sewer pipe for draining water is laid with a slope towards the water intake

3. The foundation of the bath is being erected and waterproofed.
4. After that, along the entire border of the subfloor, from the walls of the base (or pillars), the earth is again taken out with a slope of 10 ° towards the dug hole.
5. Then the slope slopes are covered with crushed stone and well compacted (for greater strength, a reinforcing mesh with cells of the order of 80x80 mm can be laid on top of the crushed stone). Everything is poured with a dense concrete mortar, which is leveled and smoothed. To reduce the cost of work, well-mixed clay can be used instead of concrete. It is laid out with a 10-centimeter layer, leveled and, as it dries, moistened with water and smoothed.
6. Further, the walls of the foundation, if this is provided for by the technology, are tied with a metal belt and beam structures treated with an antiseptic are mounted. The lower coronal rungs are attached to the harness, and if there is none, then to the walls of the base with the help of anchors or studs).

   Sexual logs in the bath do not need to be cut into the crown crown, then they can be easily replaced if necessary

7. Floor boards with gaps are laid on the floor beams. The thickness of the boards depends on the distance between the joists, but should not be less than 20 mm.

   Simple and reliable floors with slots for draining water are quickly installed and easily replaced with new ones

Often, the boards are not attached to the beam vault, but are connected to each other with a bar and ready-made shields are simply placed on top. The beam must be located among the floor beams. Such shields are very convenient to take out to dry.

The scheme of equipment for non-leaking floors is not much different from the one described above in principle, although it is more difficult to implement. The difference is that the boards are laid without gaps on the rough flooring, for which second-grade wood is quite suitable.

For such floors, the logs are deepened into a concrete or clay layer (possibly into the soil itself), waterproofing is laid on top, sealed with a sealant. The space between the lags is filled with insulation. The draft floor is made with a slope towards the grated drain hole, through which water from the washing room enters the sewer network or sewage pit and is covered with polyethylene, then a wooden flooring is mounted.

In the arrangement of non-leaking floors, water flows into a specially equipped hole along an inclined plane

It is impossible to disassemble such floors for drying, so you need to provide excellent ventilation so that the wooden floor of a leak-proof structure does not rot ahead of time. This is its minus, but the non-leaking assembly is more durable and durable and provides for the possibility of a heating device to ensure maximum comfort from water procedures even in severe frosts.

Under the finish coating of a non-leaking floor, heating can be arranged

The choice of materials for the drain device

Let's say right away that it is impossible to save on materials for arranging floors in a washroom. You need to choose the best, modern ones that will be effective for years. To create a sewage system, it is necessary to use plastic building materials that do not corrode, are resistant to getting wet, are easy to assemble and operate without losing their qualities for more than 50 years.

These can be pipes made of PVC, HDPE, PVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chloride), polypropylene or corrugated polyethylene products. Any of them are perfect for an internal drainage device in a bath.

The diameter of the pipes is selected according to the intensity of use of the bath:

• if a steam room, sauna, toilet (i.e., several drain points) are provided, then pipes Ø 100–110 mm will be required;
• without the use of plumbing, only pipes Ø 50 mm are enough to drain water.

Material calculation and tools

To organize an internal drain in the washing department, you need:

• pipes Ø 110 or Ø 50 - the amount is calculated depending on the length of the drainage network;
• adapters from Ø 50 to Ø 110 for connecting pipes of different diameters;
• tees 110x110x90 and elbow 90° - 3 pieces each;
• vertical pipes for water inlets (Ø 110 or Ø 50);
• cement, crushed stone and sand.

Materials are purchased according to the chosen installation method. The same applies to tools. But in any case, you will need:

• building level;
• Bulgarian;
• bayonet shovel.

Concrete floor in washroom

Concrete flooring is the most common due to its low cost and ease of installation.

After hardening, you can make flooring from cork slabs or wooden gratings and install a drain.

For safety reasons, it is better not to cover the concrete floor with tiles or lay wooden lattice panels on top.

Other types of floors in the washroom

Those who revere old bathing traditions equip an earthen floor in the washroom. The process of laying it is extremely simple - cut off the top layer of the earth by about 15 cm around the entire perimeter of the room and tamp the remaining earth.

If you really respect the customs of your ancestors, then you need to dig a foundation pit half a meter deep and fill it with a mixture of fine sand and gravel. If desired, boards can be laid on top.

Previously, the floors in the bath were arranged directly on the ground, after cutting off its top layer and ramming the base

We have already talked about the clay floor, but despite all the advantages of the clay itself, such a floor has a big drawback - the clay dries poorly, and when it dries, it forms cracks into which water seeps. As a result of this, a persistent unpleasant marsh odor appears in the washing room over time.

In a word, wood would be the best choice, although it can be combined with other materials.

Video: do-it-yourself correct floors in a washing bath

Floor covering in the washing room

The floor is ready, it's time to think about protecting it. Everyone knows about the antiseptic, you should not neglect it and save on it. They process wooden elements even before the start of the main work, otherwise the wooden flooring can be ruined. The antiseptic does not change the texture of wood, does not contain heavy metals and harmful salts, and perfectly protects wooden components from biological damage.

It is also recommended to use a good varnish. Before applying it, you need to prepare the surface well. It must be clean, free of grease, polished to a mirror finish and dry. The varnish is applied in several layers, after it has completely dried, the bath must be heated and ventilated.

Lacquer must be applied to a previously sanded and well-cleaned surface.

Floors can be painted. Only the paint must be of the highest quality and absolutely harmless when heated.

In addition, there are folk remedies for flooring - the use of waste after processing sunflower oil. They are applied with a roller on a thoroughly cleaned and dried surface. Repeat 2-3 times at intervals of three days. Such a coating is safe, gives the wood a beautiful shade, and besides, it will cost almost free.

If the floor in the bath is concrete, then it must be covered with a finishing material, since by itself it looks unattractive. They cover the concrete floor with a massive floor board, porcelain stoneware or ceramic slabs, parquet, cork products.

In principle, any material is suitable, as long as it meets all safety rules. And the rest, it all depends on the intended design, on the personal preferences of the owner of the bath and on his financial capabilities.

Laying the floor in the steam room

Although the steam room is the heart of the bath, the floors in it, surprisingly, are the least significant segment of the entire bath project. The main thing here is the wall partitions and the ceiling. Remember how primitive everything was with our great-grandfathers. They threw plank blocks or split logs on the ground, and this was enough to take a bath with pleasure even in areas with severe winters. Cold feet? Splashed hot water and everything. No one complained and health was excellent.

Therefore, too much attention should not be paid to laying the floors in the steam room. Some advise equipping floors with insulation, vapor barrier and rough flooring in the steam room. Of course, this is very modern, but for a steam room it will be a waste of money.

As practice shows, a simple scheme for arranging floors in a bath is the best

And why drive moisture deep into the wood. It is much better and easier to create conditions for the free passage of water, and then take care of drying and ventilation. And it is much more important to make the floors in the steam room non-slip to avoid injury.

If the steam room is combined with the washing department, then there is no structural difference between them, everything is common and the same, the floors in this case are equipped according to the methods described above.

When the steam room is a separate area and there is no need to drain a large amount of water, then the floor is laid from an edged board with small chamfers (deck board). The slots may be slightly narrower.

The deck board is made from larch and therefore resists moisture well.

It is much easier with concrete floors - they are made in the same way as in all sections of the bath. A wooden ladder is certainly laid on top, since a bare bare concrete slab is not very pleasant.

The arrangement of the floor in the steam room, as, indeed, in the entire bath, is an excellent indicator: if it is cold in the bath after laying it, then look at the ceiling, most likely, there are problems with vapor barrier there.

What to make the floor in the steam room from: choosing the best material

Of course, wood is out of competition:

And what absolutely cannot be used for floors in a steam room is linoleum, chipboard and fiberboard. Wood boards ignite easily, and non-natural materials are capable of releasing hazardous substances at high temperatures.

Concrete floor equipment in the steam room

It is advisable to purchase all the necessary building materials from one manufacturer. This will add strength to the entire structure as a whole. Need to buy:

• edge tape;
• sand, cement M200 or 300 and gravel;
• primer, roofing felt and dry mix of self-leveling screed.

Tools for the job

To complete the entire process of equipping the floor in the steam room, you will need:

• protective equipment for eyes and hands;
• bayonet shovel and building level;
• a basin for mixing a solution or a bucket;
• concrete mixer and mixer;
• rollers (needle and primer);
• rules and construction trowel;
• gas burner for soldering roofing material.

Step-by-step instructions for laying a concrete floor in a steam room

1. Solution preparation. You will need a concrete mixer in which the components of the solution are placed - sand, cement grade 200 or 300 and gravel in a ratio of 2: 1: 3. It does not make sense to use other brands of cement (higher ones), this will only increase the cost of the work. Add water and bring to the desired consistency.

   To prepare the solution, sand, gravel, cement and water are used.

2. Subfloor fitting. The soil in the steam room is covered with roofing material cut into sheets, and the seams are soldered with a gas burner. It is needed as a waterproofing agent. A 10-cm concrete layer is applied over the roofing material with a construction trowel, after which the entire screed is leveled to the level using the rule. When the solution is completely dry, proceed to the next step.

   After the pouring is completed, the concrete layer must be leveled with the rule

3. Final alignment. Literally to the millimeter, the final leveling of the concrete layer is done. For this, a self-leveling compound is used. Before laying it, the surface is cleaned of debris and dust, and then primed. The primer is applied with a conventional roller.
4. Application of self-leveling screed. Along the entire length of the steam room, the bottom of the wall is glued with edge tape. This is done so that the screed does not stick to the wall and does not burst in the future. The dry self-levelling mixture is diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the package and mixed with a mixer until smooth. Following this, it is evenly poured over the entire surface and leveled with a spiked roller to remove air bubbles.
5. Finishing work. The floor filled with a self-leveling screed is left to dry and only then proceed to the finishing work.

Video: pouring the screed in the bath with your own hands

Floor covering in the steam room

Some people believe that no impregnation should be used in the steam room, arguing that the bath should give health, and not emit harmful fumes at high temperatures. It's hard to disagree with this. But there is another side of the coin - physical wear and tear and decay.

Not only the wood with which the steam room is sheathed needs protection, but even the concrete floor screed loses its properties over the years. Plus, untreated, it accumulates dust that lovers of hot steam breathe.

If this is of little concern to the owner of the bath and he is ready to change the lining of the steam room (including replacing or repairing the floor) every 5 years, then, of course, no impregnations and oils. Otherwise, it is necessary to do the treatment of the steam room and it is advisable to use natural wax and oils for this, specially designed for saunas and steam rooms.

Linseed oil emphasizes the structure of wood, creates a protective film on its surface and does not emit harmful substances when heated.

Concrete floor screed can be treated with organic and inorganic impregnations. This will increase the wear resistance of concrete, prevent excessive accumulation of dust. But it is necessary to apply impregnations in a steam room thoughtfully, carefully studying the instructions and composition.

There are many schemes for arranging floors in the washroom and steam room. All of them are accessible and understandable. They can be implemented independently. You can even apply several technologies at the same time, such a combination will give good drainage and a flat surface. But as practice shows, the technology that is simpler is better. Good luck and light steam.

You can talk about the Russian bath and its health benefits for hours. This is, in fact, a favorite vacation for many of our compatriots. And one of the main places of the bath is the washing department.

Actually, building a bath with your own hands is not such a complicated process. But the arrangement of the washing department requires special knowledge. As in any construction, there are nuances and secrets here. And here you can not do without the advice of a specialist.

general information

A modern Russian bath can consist of several rooms:

• steam rooms;
• shower department;
• swimming pool;
• washing department;
• dressing room.

In the photo - a good dressing room

All these premises are undoubtedly important, but the washing department occupies a special place in the Russian bath.

The washing department, the main room of the bath, differs from other rooms in the use of a large amount of water. In it, lovers of the Russian bath rest from steam procedures. And washing away the sweat from the body, those who like to take a steam bath pour water on the floor.

Therefore, special attention should be paid to the arrangement of the floor in these rooms. The floors in the washing bath should be equipped with special care. Let's take a closer look at how to install floors in rooms with high humidity.

Floor arrangement

The floor in the washing bath must meet several requirements:

• well ventilated and dry quickly;
• remove excess moisture from the room without hindrance;
• be warm, should not create drafts;

• must be durable and not deform under sudden temperature changes.

There are two types of floors in the washing department of the bath:

1. wooden floor;
2. concrete floor.

Features of a wooden floor

The wooden floor in the bath is the most comfortable flooring.

And it is best to use coniferous wood for these purposes:

• pine;
• larch.

This is due to the fact that coniferous wood is the most resistant to moisture.

For the installation of wooden floors in the bath, we need the following materials:

• sand;
• waterproofing material;
• cement;
• wooden beam (150x150 mm);
• floorboards (35-50 mm);
• impregnation to protect the boards.

Wooden floors in the washing department should be multi-layered. This is necessary to ensure its long-term operation and normal functioning.

There are two types of wood floors:

1. A leaky floor is the easiest way to build a floor. On a concrete base, which is made under a slope, logs are fixed on which a plank floor will be laid. Moreover, the boards of such a floor must be fixed at a certain distance from each other - this is necessary in order for the water to freely leave the room.

Leaking floors, as a rule, are removable - this is necessary for more thorough drying of the floor in the washing department of the bath. This method is quite cheap, but has one significant drawback - this type of floor cannot be insulated.

Note!
The concrete base of the floor must be made at an angle.
And it must have a special drain into the sewer or into an open ditch to drain water.
In this case, the drain will also work as a ventilation hole.

1. no leaking floor. The installation of a non-leaking floor is done a little differently than a leaking floor. Its main feature is that it requires special drainage to drain water and a special ventilation system. After all, a non-leaking floor is made non-removable.

Experts offer the following method for arranging inclined wooden floors:

• initially prepare a rough flooring, fill it with expanded clay chips, lay a double waterproofing layer on it (roofing, roofing felt, polymer insulating sheet);
• then fix the lags. Moreover, the logs are laid without tilt;
• thermal insulation material is laid between the lags. It can be polystyrene or mineral wool;

• on top of the logs laid at the base of the floor, bars are stuffed. The thickness of the bars should decrease towards the drain hole;
• then another layer of waterproofing material is laid on the bars, on top of which;
• boards are fixed with screws. This will facilitate the dismantling of the floor if necessary.

When equipping a non-leaking floor, remember the need for ventilation of the underground space. To ensure ventilation, at the time of installation of the subfloor, small holes can be made in the floor, and plastic pipes with a diameter of 5 or 10 cm can be inserted into them.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor in the washing department of the bath is an excellent solution to the problem. It is easy enough to mount, it is reliable, durable, and easy to care for. The price of a concrete floor is much lower than the cost of wooden floors.

However, it has one significant drawback - the concrete floor is cold, and it can be insulated by laying heat-insulating material between two slabs. Installing a concrete floor requires significant labor costs.

Stages of concrete floor installation

Note!
The first layer of screed should be mounted with a slope to a shallow pit, where excess water will drain.

• • after the first layer has hardened, a layer of loose heat insulator of approximately 7 cm is poured onto the screed and a second layer of concrete is applied. Moreover, it must be reinforced with a special metal mesh;

• • then, the surface is leveled with a rule. After a week, the floor in your washroom is ready for use. This is a ready-made instruction for installing a concrete floor in a bath.

Conclusion

The device of the floor in the bath should be carried out with all care. It depends on how comfortable you feel in it.

In this article we consider wall insulation in the bath, make an overview of wall insulation and the types of insulation themselves. For convenience, the types of walls are presented in the table:

Steam room, washing room or dressing room

Inside the bath there are internal walls separating rooms with different temperature conditions. Each of these rooms has its own specifics. Let's consider each case separately:

Steam room insulation

The steam room is the room with the highest temperature. In the Russian bath, 60-90 degrees are optimal, in the Finnish - 70-110. In addition, baths often burn down. So, the materials used in the construction should:

• withstand such temperature (and humidity);
• do not emit toxic substances when heated;
• do not support combustion.

The restrictions are very significant. The types of insulation will be discussed below, but it is already clear that it is extremely limited.

If an environmentally friendly insulation is strongly gaining moisture (while losing its properties), you also have to take care of its high-quality insulation between the layers of the hydro- and vapor barrier. And to prevent rotting of wood, which most often ends up in a steam room, it is necessary to leave ventilation gaps between the vapor barrier and the same lining or imitation of timber.

From what has been said, it is already clear that the steam room. Special, because light steam tends up to the ceiling, where the main heat losses occur in the absence or improper insulation. The vapor barrier is placed in two layers.

Often it is used as it in the steam room and returned to the room (as in a thermos). In addition, it is an excellent vapor barrier, because it does not let water through at all.

Another problematic place is the chimney outlet. It must be well insulated, and the ceiling must be protected from overheating. A high threshold to the steam room, and a low, but wide one, will help to keep warm.

Washing room insulation

Wall insulation in the washing room in the bath. The washing room differs from the steam room in that the temperatures are lower here, and the humidity is higher. Nevertheless, the task of saving heat is also relevant for soap. Warming methods are no different from a steam room, except that there is no need for a double vapor barrier.

But there is a need for good ventilation. The floor in the washing room is often made of tiles. If desired, it is insulated with a "warm floor" system. Less steam accumulates under the ceiling than in the steam room, but you shouldn’t leave room for heat loss here either, so the ceiling of the washing room is also carefully insulated.

Warming of the dressing room

The dressing room, although not directly exposed to steam and water, is nevertheless applies to rooms with high humidity- the proximity to the steam room and washing affects. Therefore, it includes all recommendations regarding the choice of heaters and the need for insulation.

The dressing room also needs insulation so that it does not become that refrigerator that will take heat from other rooms. The scheme of an ordinary pie may not be needed if polyurethane foam is used as a heater in the dressing room - it does not need to be fixed to the wall and isolated from moisture and steam.

What kind of bath, wall insulation from the inside or outside?

A question that torments many bathhouse owners when they think about warming it. In fact, everything is not as difficult as it seems. If you are already familiar with the concept of “dew point”, then for a bath it is not very relevant - this is a room that is used from time to time, and when used, the temperature and humidity jump sharply and high. Because of this, the dew point slides back and forth when you heat the bath, splash water on the heater when it cools and ventilates.

Therefore, the main task of the owner becomes the creation of proper ventilation in the bath and thorough drying of the premises after the bath procedure. And it’s also worth putting a heater that does not deteriorate from dampness and dries easily.

At least in the first place, the insulation is placed from the inside, because by insulating from this side, you will not waste energy every time on heating the entire thickness of the walls, which have had time to cool down to street temperature in winter since the last arrival.

IMPORTANT! With external cladding, it is better to use a membrane as waterproofing, which will release vapors from the insulation, but prevent the penetration of street moisture.

In addition, there is a specificity in the material of the walls: block baths, due to the hygroscopicity of the blocks, need external cladding, it is almost always combined with insulation from the outside. But wooden baths are not insulated from the outside, for fear of rotting walls.

vapor barrier

The importance of vapor barrier is to do not allow water vapor to wet the insulation, which because of this loses its thermal insulation properties.

When foil the task becomes more complicated: it not only does not let steam through, but also must reflect most of the infrared radiation. More information about the foil can be obtained at the link given above, where we considered the insulation of the steam room.

The physical properties of the material used as a vapor barrier should not change with strong heating.

It also includes the requirements for environmental cleanliness for insulation.

Wall insulation in the bath and their decoration

The “pie” scheme is similar both inside and out: if a non-sprayed insulation is used, then

1. the first layer to the wall is the crate;
2. followed by a layer of insulation;
3. then a layer of vapor barrier;
4. ventilation gap (for example, using a crate);
5. exterior or interior wall decoration

Interior wall decoration for a bath

Since we are talking about baths, the majority, of course, prefers wood. If not in the whole bath, then at least in the steam room. It could be:

• lining;
• timber imitation;
• block house.

It is optimal to use larch or aspen in a steam room, but conifers are best left for washing.- in the steam room they can cause a burn, and in the washing resin they will protect the tree from rotting with excessive moisture. However, in washing rooms it is often used for interior decoration. tile- ceramic, made of natural or artificial stone, porcelain stoneware. There is also a cheaper option. with plastic panels, but I don’t want to recommend it because of the smell.

Useful video

Watch the video, which explains the specifics of the insulation of bath walls:

External wall decoration

Insulation and wall decoration for a bath from the outside suggests more options. In addition to the fact that outside the baths are sheathed with the same materials as inside (see above), there are more options:

• vinyl siding;
• plastic lining;
• edged and unedged board;
• plaster;
• OSB panels;
• facade tiles.

IMPORTANT! A ventilation gap should be left between the interior trim and the vapor barrier, and between the exterior trim and the waterproofing membrane.

Which heater to choose?

As you can see, there are more than one correct options, so you always have a choice. Finally, one piece of advice: when purchasing a heater, carefully consider its technical characteristics and the availability of certificates confirming its safety for humans at elevated temperatures.

Where to order or buy

Clients with knowledge and skills in the construction industry can do the work themselves. They will be interested in companies offering wall insulation, collected on our site.

Despite the fact that the main room of any bath is, undoubtedly, the washing room is also an indispensable element. Between short visits to the steam room, vacationers head to the washing room, where they can cool off in cool water, relax in the font and undergo various beauty treatments (scrub, massage, etc.).

A washing room is a room whose distinctive feature is a high level of humidity, so this factor must be taken into account when finishing it. The floor deserves special attention, as it will be exposed to water regularly.

What are the floors in the washing bath?

In order for the floor in the washing room to serve for more than one year, it is important that it meets the requirements below:

• withstand exposure to moisture and strong temperature changes;
• well ventilated and dry quickly;
• ensure moisture removal.

First you need to decide on the place where the water will flow. If there is sandy soil under the building, then you need to dig a hole and strengthen its walls, another option is to build a water intake to drain water.

You can also install a metal container or make a concrete screed with a slope about 50 cm deep.

On the base, you need to strengthen the logs at a distance of 60 cm. Most often, a bar made of larch or pine is used. It is necessary to lay boards up to 2 cm wide on the logs, but you need to leave gaps of about 5-8 mm, this will be enough for the water to flow down unhindered, while walking on such a coating will be comfortable.

How to make wooden floors in a non-leaking type washing bath?

First you need to lay the logs on the foundation. Next, you need to lay a layer of waterproofing, seal the seams with sealant. Insulation should be tightly laid between the lags. The next stage is re-waterproofing, it is covered with a layer of vapor barrier film.

After it is necessary to make a draft floor with a slope towards the flow of water, cover it with a layer of polyethylene.

The last stage is the installation of the finish coating. For laying the floor, a tongue and groove board is suitable. The segments must be laid out in the direction of the drain at an angle so that the water flows to the hole.

How to make a concrete floor screed in a washing room?

First you need to prepare the base: compact the soil tightly, pour a 15 cm layer of gravel, crushed stone or broken brick. It is necessary to lay a layer of roofing material on the backfill layer, grease the seams with bitumen.

Remember that already when pouring the first layer, it is necessary to tilt towards the drain! Filling should be carried out in one step, otherwise a solid foundation will not work. If the washing area is too large, then you can lay wooden guides and pour concrete gradually into each of the sectors.

For additional structural strength, a reinforcing mesh must be installed. Then lay the next layer of concrete screed.

As already mentioned, the concrete base is cold and unpleasant to the touch. To get rid of this drawback, you can make warm floors in the bath in the washing room. Under the finishing layer of the floor, you can lay electric, water or infrared floors.

The most optimal and common option is water heated floors, because they have an affordable cost and do not emit harmful fumes. It is undesirable to make an electric floor, because a washing room is a room where there is always a high level of humidity.

In the washing room, the concrete floor covering is usually finished, because the screed not only looks unattractive, but it is also not very pleasant to walk on it barefoot. A popular option is lining - an environmentally friendly, aesthetic material with high performance properties.

Another common finishing material is tile. It does not deteriorate under the influence of water, has a natural composition, is durable and attractive in appearance. With the help of tiles it is easy to make an original design in the room. But tiles can be slippery, which is dangerous for washing, so you need to choose matte and anti-slip models. If the tile is still slipping, place wooden pallets or rubber mats on top.

Washing is a mandatory room in any bath. Its main feature is a high level of humidity, water constantly gets on the floor, so this must be taken into account when installing it. Be sure to think carefully about the issue of waterproofing, otherwise the floors in the washing room will quickly become unusable, and they will have to be changed, which is fraught with additional cash costs.