How to install a socket block in the wall - instructions from A to Z. Do-it-yourself step-by-step connection of an outlet Connecting an external outlet

In practice, there are many ways to connect electrical outlets to electrical wiring. In their implementation, different goals can be pursued, from austerity of materials and funds to reliable, long-term and safe work equipment.

Considering the growing needs of the population for the use of powerful electrical appliances in everyday life, one should dwell on the consideration of the most favorable electrical circuit for a home network providing maximum security during operation. It should be divided into two components of the system:

power unit that provides power supply to household appliances through sockets;

lighting system separated from the work of the power unit.

To create the power circuits of the in-house shield, circuit breakers are mounted according to the number of necessary connections. From each machine, a cable is laid to a junction box, one or more. They are connected in series, but their number should not exceed four. Inside each box, another cable is connected that supplies voltage to the outlet.

Thus, only one, single socket is connected from one branch box, no more.

Rice. 1. Scheme of the power part of the electrical wiring of the apartment

The lighting system also starts with a circuit breaker at. From it, the lighting cable goes to one junction box, and then the next. Each room lamp with its switch is connected by a cable through the terminals of an individual box.

Rice. 2. Scheme of the lighting part of the electrical wiring of the apartment

For the wires of the power section and the lighting, different cables are used, which must externally differ from each other in the color of the insulation layer. This will allow you to quickly determine the desired wiring circuit in the future.

The device of the branch box may be different, but during operation, a design with four connecting blocks equipped with two, and preferably three contacts, is convenient.

The sockets are connected to the power circuit with three wires and in junction box for them it is enough to use the same number of terminals, and for the operation of the lighting circuit it is required large quantity contacts: four for single-gang switch and five for two-key.

The number of used household electrical appliances in the apartment affects the number of sockets. In some rooms it is necessary to have more than ten of them. However, the use of extensions, tees and twins should be avoided for safety reasons. Therefore, it is recommended to install special blocks on the wall, which can include up to four outlets.

In such a block, all contacts at the factory are securely interconnected into a single structure and brought to external terminals for connecting wires. The device is designed for the maximum load specified by the manufacturer, and therefore it is considered as one socket when connected with a loop for residential wiring.

In the kitchen when using several powerful electrical appliances, such as a dishwasher and electric stove, or electric kettle a load may occur that exceeds the permissible power of using the socket block. This is a prerequisite for an accident. Such structures are not installed in the kitchen.

There are socket designs on sale that look like a single unit, but they are not. They have single sockets mounted in a single housing, which must be connected by wires to the circuit breaker. But in practice, this is quite difficult to do.

As a way out of this situation, it is proposed to connect nearby sockets to each other in parallel with wires, but not to use them for the operation of energy-intensive consumers. The number of such sockets should not exceed four. In exceptional, extreme cases, it is allowed to connect a fifth outlet. And for powerful consumers of electricity, create an appropriate power circuit from an individual circuit breaker.

Rice. 3. A variant of the power wiring diagram of the apartment

With such a scheme, two separate mains of the power circuit can be laid in one room.

The article will help novice electricians and home craftsmen to independently choose and connect the outlet correctly, according to the most modern requirements to electrical wiring.

Considered general principles installation and connection electrical outlet . These recommendations are based not only on the current Belarusian and Russian standards, but also on our own long-term practice and European standards.

The instruction does NOT violate the current Belarusian and Russian norms!

General rules for connecting an outlet

1. It is obligatory to have a grounding contact, and the presence of protection against children (protective curtains).

2. Forbidden: installation over kitchen sink, gas stove, electric stove or hob. From gas pipes the distance is not less than 0.5 meters. In bathrooms and other wet areas, strictly adhere to certain rules(See Bathroom Wiring)

3. Standard installation height: 30 cm from the floor to the center of the installation. Minimum Distance from the floor 5 cm for a 16 A socket and 12 cm for a 32 A socket (to the axis of the socket).

4. Electrical sockets must be fixed with screws, fastening only with spreader tabs is not recommended.

5. Wiring:

• Low power line max. 5 points = cable section 1.5 mm2 (copper). The equipment included in the network is not more than 10 A. Line protection by circuit breaker 10 A (maximum 16 A, not recommended!)
• Power line no more than 8 points = cable section 2.5 mm2 (copper) Equipment connected to the network no more than 16 A. Protection of the line by a circuit breaker 16 A (maximum 20 A, not recommended!)

6. Wire connection (mounting with contacts down): phase to the right contact, zero to the left contact, ground conductor in the center.

color coding ( STB IEC 60173, TCP 339 4.1.14):

grounding(ground) - yellow-green

Zero- blue

Phase- any color other than yellow-green and blue. Usually red, brown or black.

Types of sockets for connection

You should choose the right sockets, depending on their operating conditions. There are several types of electrical sockets:

Sockets, for installation inside the building. Degree of protection - IP 20

Sockets, for installation in wet rooms or when mounted outside the building IP not lower than 44

The choice of socket design is based on the accepted wiring method ( open or hidden). For concealed wiring installation of the socket is carried out in a socket recessed into the wall. With open wiring, sockets must have a protective base for mounting to the wall.

Minimum number of outlets

In the apartment:

• V living rooms apartments, at least one socket must be installed for every 5 m of the perimeter of the room, a double socket is counted as one piece ( TCP 45-4.04-149-2009);
• In the corridors - at least one per 10 square meters;
• In kitchens - at least 4 pieces (if the kitchen area is more than 8 m2, then at least 5 pieces) a double socket is counted as two pieces;

• Rooms: 1 socket per 4 m2 but not less than 5 outlets;
• Kitchen: 6 sockets including 4 in the work area (excluding special electrical circuits). If the kitchen is smaller than 4m2, it is permissible to reduce the number to 3 points;
• Corridor or hallway: 1 socket per 10m2;
• Other premises: at least 1 point, unless prohibited by building codes.

For garden electrical equipment, it is convenient to install sockets outside the house. A separate disconnected line should be used to power them. Consider installing at least one electrical outlet near each communication outlet (telephone, network, TV).

Socket connection diagrams

Connection of a line of sockets can be performed in parallel (loop) or with a branch through a junction box (star).

The principle of connecting the line with a loop:

Connection principle via junction box:

Ways to connect a line of sockets (diagrams):

When connecting sockets, pay attention to the requirements PUE 7 (1.7.144), which specifies the requirements for an inseparable connection of the protective conductor PE (earth) using a branch. This requirement is met by one of the selected methods (welding, crimping, spring terminals, etc.) in distribution and installation boxes (sockets).

Do you need additional outlets? overhaul not yet planned? The cost of calling a professional electrician is high, but you don’t trust cheap craftsmen and want to solve the problem on your own?

The prospect of suffering without a vital electrical outlet in the coming years, waiting for repairs, is not at all attractive, right? But without proper experience, it’s difficult for you to immediately figure out how to make two from one outlet and where to start?

We will show you how you can solve this problem on your own without resorting to calling an electrician - the article shows popular ways to install an additional outlet from an existing one. The tools necessary for installation and the corresponding Consumables which can be useful in the process of electrical work.

Mounting options for an additional outlet are accompanied by illustrative photographs and meaningful video recommendations.

The option of installing an additional outlet will help get rid of quarrels between family members who need electrical outlets to turn on various household appliances.

This problem is especially acute in the kitchen with the purchase new technology- blender, mini-combine, yogurt maker, bread maker, multicooker and other appliances.

Therefore, it would be advisable to decide on an additional outlet from an existing one.

A technically equipped kitchen needs a sufficient number of electrical connection points. This should be remembered even at the stage of drawing up an interior design project for the future premises.

But here you can face a real problem - it is not always possible to complete such a task. There are a number of restrictions when it is absolutely impossible to carry out such a modernization of the existing power grid:

• if you need a socket for an electric stove;
• when you decide to connect a boiler with a washing machine;
• if the total power of the devices is more than 2.2 kW.

In houses or apartments where the owners have purchased a new electric stove to replace the old gas one, a new outlet will be required to connect it. In such a situation, it is impossible to conduct another one from a regular outlet to turn on this powerful device.

Here you will need to install a separate branch from the junction box, and even better - from the shield. Yes, and a residual current device for powerful equipment must be installed. In order to learn about the rules for connecting an outlet for an electric stove, we recommend reading.

Another unfortunate example, when the bathroom provides a socket only for washing machine. But over time, purchased a boiler. Read about how to properly position and connect sockets in the bathroom.

These devices cannot be turned on at the same time in one double outlet - the wiring may burn out. It will be problematic to always control the order in which the boiler is switched on with the washing machine.

The result of a network overvoltage can be deplorable - it’s good when the problem was discovered in time or the machine worked and the fire was avoided

It is also necessary, even before starting work on installing another outlet, to calculate the estimated power of the devices that will be simultaneously included in the new block of outlets.

Often they plan to upgrade the point of connection to the mains, which is fed by a wire with a cross section of 1.5-2.5 mm 2. Therefore, the total power of the devices can be slightly more than 2 kW.

It is impossible to turn on such neighboring sockets, powered from the same core, at the same time dishwasher, oven and heater, or boiler and washing machine

Options for arranging two outlets from one

Deciding on self-installation an additional electrical outlet, you have to learn how to properly wire a new outlet from an existing outlet, get acquainted with the recommendations and advice of experienced craftsmen.

If there is no confidence in own forces, then it is better to invite an electrician who has remarkable practical experience behind him.

At self-assembly an additional outlet to be decided what it will be:

• new point, remote from the existing one by a couple of meters;
• twin model instead of single;
• whole block from 3-6 points.

Depending on individual needs, you should choose the most suitable option. If there is simply not enough one more electric point to turn on all the necessary devices, then it is more convenient and easier to install a dual model.

Such a solution can be implemented even by a beginner who does not have experience and special knowledge in electrical work. But if you are encountering connecting outlets for the first time, we recommend that you first study the following material, which provides step-by-step instructions for connecting electrical outlets.

For electric stove separate power cable capable of withstanding heavy loads

When the sofa was rearranged in the room and the location of the TV was changed, or a PC was bought for grown-up children, you can’t get by with a double socket here. You will need to put in an additional one or two new ones.

And if the needs for power consumption are higher, but the thickness of the wire section allows it, it is best to put the block on 4-6 sockets. Such a solution can harmoniously fit into the interior without piling up the walls with unnecessary details.

Rules for holding an outlet from an outlet

Rule # 2 - the subtleties of installing a double model

A quick and easy way to turn one outlet into two is to remove the decorative trim, unscrew the old working mechanism, taking it out of the socket. Instead, you have to put a new outlet on 2 working sockets.

She's different from single 2 seats which are capable of withstanding a total current of up to 16 A.

This model is installed in one socket. Its working mechanism differs from a single one by the presence of 2 terminal blocks, divorced in different directions.

The mechanism of the double socket is visually different from the single model. The main thing is that all wires are connected correctly.

For installation you will need:

• turn off the electricity in the whole house / apartment;
• make sure that the house is really de-energized;
• remove a single outlet, freeing the wires from its working mechanism;
• cut frayed ends of bare wires;
• remove the insulation from the tips about 1 cm;
• insert the brown phase wire into the right contact of the mechanism;
• insert the blue zero wire into the left contact;
• insert the green/yellow earth wire into the central earth terminal;
• tighten all contacts of the working mechanism of the socket with a screwdriver;
• bend the wires with an accordion in the socket and insert on top of the working mechanism;
• fix everything with screws;
• put on the decorative cover of the socket and tighten the fixing screw in the center.

After completing the work on turning one outlet into 2, it is necessary to check its performance. If everything works, you can turn on the electricity in the apartment / house. You can read more about connecting a double outlet to one socket in this material.

Rule # 3 - the nuances of installing a new outlet nearby

The option of installing a new electric point at a certain distance from the existing one will require more time and effort. Here, as in the previous version, it is necessary to de-energize the house / apartment and only then proceed to work.

To make sure that the brown wire is the phase, you can use a special indicator screwdriver. When in contact with the phase, its lamp lights up

The wires are fastened in the same way as for a double socket. One difference is that 2 identical wires are inserted into each contact, and the fasteners are tightened with a screwdriver. To get a loop.

The earth wire is to be bifurcated - attach 2 yellow-green pieces, put a sleeve at the junction, press it with press tongs, put a heat-shrinkable tube on top for insulation.

One branch will be inserted into the mechanism of the old outlet, and the second - a new one. The supply core of 3 wires is extended to the desired length.

To connect two pieces of wire, you can use a special cap - such a connection is reliable, but to remove it, you will have to bite off part of the wire

A hole is made in the wall for installing a socket - the wall will have to be drilled. Then the power wire is threaded inward, and the glass is fixed with an alabaster mixture. It remains to connect the working mechanism of the outlet - the steps are the same as for a double outlet.

After installing the decorative cover, it remains to hide or disguise the wire, using the most suitable option for this.

Rule # 4 - block connection features

When the thickness of the main core is sufficient, and the potential devices that will be powered by future outlets have moderate power, it is possible to build an outlet block in a modular frame instead of one old outlet. It can be 2 in a row, 3, 4, 5 or 6 pieces.

To give such a block an aesthetic look, buy a decorative modular frame. Moreover, the color and material can be selected according to personal preferences.

To connect this version of the sockets, you must first de-energize the room. Better yet, the entire apartment/house.

When installing a block of sockets instead of one, you should clearly maintain the distance between them, so that subsequently the decorative frame will hide everything superfluous

Then you have to carry out actions similar to installing a second outlet. The only difference is that the distance between the socket of the old and new electric points will be minimal.

Its exact parameters depend on the size of the glass itself and the width of the decorative cover-lining.

By connecting in series all the wires to each of the new sockets of the future block, and connecting the ground to the working mechanisms, it remains to be completed installation work, similar to installing a second outlet, located at a distance from the old one.

After installation, it is important to check the performance of the new outlet - the light should light up

Errors when conducting an outlet

And although installing an additional outlet is an easy task, beginners often make mistakes. Such unfortunate misunderstanding, as the incorrect installation of a new electrical point, can turn into big trouble.

Therefore, it is important to pay Special attention the most common mistakes and try to avoid them.

First, you need to use a wire to connect a new outlet of the same thickness as the existing one. Otherwise, there can be no talk of correct operation.

Secondly, it is advisable to use wires from the same material - if the socket is powered by a copper wire, then the second from it should also be carried out using copper wire the same diameter.

Image Gallery

The third mistake made when self-connection- Violation of the sequence of connecting wires. To prevent this from happening, you need to clearly understand the purpose of each and correctly determine the place of its attachment.

For convenience, it is advisable to look at the old one by disassembling it before buying a new outlet. This is done strictly after turning off the power from the mains.

You should pay attention to the presence of a ground wire - if it is not there, which is often found in Khrushchevs and other houses of an old building, then it is better to take the wire for a new outlet without ground. How to act in case of connecting a socket with grounding is written here.

The fourth mistake is an incorrect or insufficiently strong connection of wires to the working mechanism of the outlet. Here, without experience, it is quite difficult to find a balance.

Therefore, in order to minimize the amount of work ahead, it is advisable to conduct a rehearsal for connecting wires on a spare piece of wire. You can use a light bulb to check the quality of the bond.

You can choose the most convenient option fastening wires together - you need to buy original terminal blocks or other products, for fear of fakes

The fifth mistake is when the wire was run diagonally. This is unacceptable, and this is prohibited by the wiring standards - the wire should be laid vertically. Although home craftsmen are also capable of not doing this.

You shouldn't do this - if it will be held in a couple of years redecorating, then finding the exact location of the wire will be extremely problematic and it can be accidentally damaged.

It is also necessary to fasten the wires in the contact of the working mechanism with high quality. You will need a screwdriver for this.

The sixth mistake, or rather, a nuisance, is an unsuccessfully chosen design. decorative overlay sockets. This moment will not affect the performance of the mechanism in any way - it will only be striking, standing out from the general concept of the design of the room.

To avoid such dissonance, you should choose in advance the most suitable model that can harmoniously fit into the existing style composition.

It is now easy to choose a socket model that is suitable in color and shape - manufacturers vying with each other offer the most sophisticated options. It is important that the product is not a fake

Knowing the main problem areas of the upcoming work on installing an additional outlet, it will be easier to avoid common mistakes. Of course, these nuances do not apply to the work of professional electricians - the masters will do everything right the first time.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

To get two out of one outlet, you can use the simplest way - put a double model instead of a single one. Step by step this option is shown in the video:

Having considered the question of the advisability of installing a new outlet from an existing one and having decided on its installation, you will have to carefully consider all stages of the work.

In the future, it will be necessary to strictly adhere to the rules for operating a new electric point in order to exclude line overload - it is impossible to simultaneously turn on 2 rather powerful devices in such sockets.

Decided to independently connect from one or from one to make two, but are not sure that you are doing everything right? Or have already done such work and can give useful advice visitors to our site? Please leave your comments, participate in discussions, ask questions.

It is quite simple in its execution and will certainly come in handy in the arsenal of building experience for every man. Making repairs once again, I probably wanted to add an additional outlet somewhere, but having no general idea of ​​​​how to do it, I don’t really want to take on this business. The detailed information in this article will help you socket wiring diagram.

Let's bring good example, in it we will consider the full version of the installation and connection of the cores of the wires into the socket circuit with grounding. Our example is made in a compact version, it is a hidden electrical wiring and usually everything you see is under the plaster and at a distance from each other. The scheme of external wiring and in the internal are the same.

Installation of pre-installation circuit elements

First of all, it is necessary to install a junction box, in which the wires will be connected into a finished circuit.

Next, we will simulate a power shield with protection devices installed in it. Since we have one direction, we will install one machine. We mount the Din - rail, on which we will fix the modular circuit breaker, which will protect the circuit from short circuit.

Now, install a socket, a socket mechanism will subsequently be installed in it.

If necessary, you can refer to step by step instructions for installation, they are presented on our resource in articles of the same name, and.

We lay the wires necessary to complete the circuit

First of all, we mount the power wire, through which voltage will be applied to the circuit protection device.

Attention! If the wire is already present and there is voltage on it, be sure to disconnect it before carrying out all work. After that, in without fail, make sure it is not on the wire. To check the fact of its absence, use the voltage indicator. You can read the instructions for working with this device in the article.

Now, we draw and fasten the last wire of our circuit, from the junction box to the socket.

The ends of the wires in the junction box should be 10-15 centimeters long.

On the socket to connect the outlet, 10 centimeters is enough.

All the necessary wires of the circuit are mounted, we proceed to the installation of the installation equipment.

Installation of the installation equipment of the socket circuit

Let's start by installing and connecting the protection device. In our example, this function is performed by a two-pole circuit breaker, it protects the circuit from overloads and short circuit currents. You can learn more about what circuit breakers are, what functions they perform and what their principle of operation is in the article. . Explore detailed instructions for connecting a two-pole machine can be in the article .

We prepare suitable and outgoing wires. The wire we use is three-core, has double insulation, which consists of a common outer sheath and an inner one, individual for each of the cores, with a color designation of the insulating layer.

We remove the outer insulation. Before us are three multi-colored veins at the top and three at the bottom. At different cable factories, the color of the cores may vary somewhat, but the main colors and shades remain unchanged. Each three-wire wire has a blue tint and yellow or yellow-green.

Before you install the circuit, you need to decide on the color of the cores. Let's see which colors are most widely used in electrical designations:

• blue - zero;
• yellow or
• The vein of the remaining color will be a phase, in most cases its color is white or black, less often red, orange or brown.

For our specific example, on the (upper) wire suitable for the machine:

• white wire with a blue stripe - will be zero;
• white wire with a black stripe - phase;
• yellow with a green stripe - earth.

On the outgoing (lower) wire:

1. blue - zero;
2. white - phase;
3. yellow with a green stripe - earth.

It is advisable to use the wire of one cable plant, so you are guaranteed not to get confused in the colors.

We measure the length of wire cores required for connection. Then, remove 1 centimeter of the insulating layer from each of the cores.

We connect the blue and white wires to the contacts of the machine.

For the grounding conductor, we use a through contact.

The lower cores of the wire that goes to the junction box are connected in the same way. I note that the connection of the cores should be symmetrical, if the top of the machine is zero on the right, then it should be on the right from the bottom, the phase is on the top left and bottom left.

The connection of the security device is completed.

We proceed to connect the socket with grounding. We remove the outer insulation of the wire.

We connect the cores of the wires to the contacts of the socket mechanism. The white and blue wires are connected to the power contacts of the socket, and we put the yellow wire with a green stripe into the ground contact.

The connection of the socket with grounding is completed. Now, install the socket mechanism in the socket.

Read more about how to install other electrical wiring elements (sockets with and without grounding, double switches, including those with backlight, chandeliers, lamps, exhaust fan bathroom), you can see .

Let's move on to the next step.

We connect the cores of the wires in the socket connection diagram

Two wires are involved in our scheme, feeding the junction box (located on the left) and going to the outlet (located at the bottom), we remove the outer insulation from both wires.

The connection of the cores in the circuit will be made by twisting the wires together.

At this stage, I would like to draw your attention to one important point. In the example, the twisting method is used, since it is the most visual for understanding and perceiving the principle of executing the circuit. Currently, the rules for the installation of electrical installations in its pure form, this method is prohibited by PUE p2.1.21.

The permitted methods of connecting wire cores include:

• crimping;
• welding;
• soldering;
• screw, clamp and similar clamps.

This issue will be discussed in more detail in the corresponding instructions, the article is currently being written, but will appear on our resource in the near future.

We twist together first two white, phase conductors of the wire.

We stretch the finished twist with pliers, bite off the protruding ends.

Similarly, we connect two blue, zero wire cores.

Then, two ground wires.

The socket wiring diagram is complete.

We install a protective cover on the socket mechanism.

We isolate the twists of wires with an insulating tape.

And put them in a junction box.

Now we need to test the functionality finished scheme. To do this, we apply voltage to it by moving the lever of the circuit breaker from the lower position - "off", to the upper position - "on".

We perform the check first with a voltage indicator, then, using any electrical appliance, simply by plugging it into a power outlet.

The socket is ready for use.

Drawing. Socket connection diagram.

In this work, we used the following material:

• junction box - 1 pc.;
• socket box - 1 pc.;
• wire - measured according to the specific measurements of your room;
• socket - 1 pc.;
• ground contact - 1 pc.;
• bipolar automatic switch - 1 piece;
• insulating tape - 1 pc.

How much we saved by making a do-it-yourself socket connection diagram:

• call an electrician - 200 rubles;
• installation of an indoor junction box - 550 rubles;
• installation of an indoor socket outlet (making a hole, installation) - 200 rubles;
• installation of a two-pole machine - 300 rubles;
• installation of a ground contact - 120 rubles;
• chasing walls (1 meter - 120 rubles, for example, take 8 meters) - 960 rubles;
• installation of the wire openly, up to 2 meters high (for example, 2 meters, down to the outlet, 1 meter - 35 rubles) - 70 rubles;
• installation of wire over 2 meters (1 meter - 50 rubles, for example 8 meters) - 400 rubles;
• installation and connection of sockets with grounding hidden installation- 200 rubles.

TOTAL: 3000 rubles

* Calculation is made for electrical wiring of hidden execution

- occupation is quite safe if you follow the basic rules. Moreover, this is a simple procedure that takes no more than 15 minutes, when there is already a socket for installation, with a fixed socket.

Socket device, its varieties, a brief connection diagram

Before considering the issue of connecting the outlet, we will briefly study its components and types. The design of the product is simple, it includes a body and a working unit. As for the case, it performs an insulating and decorative function. The working unit has an insulating base, usually made of ceramic or plastic, on which the terminals for connection are located electrical wires, as well as spring contacts for the plug.

In spite of simple design, there are many varieties of sockets, classified by:

• installation method - overhead, built-in;
• protection class;
• method of fastening wires - screw, contact;
• the presence or absence of a grounding connector.

Is not full list different types, however, other differences are not so significant when connecting the product to an electrical network, the scheme of which is as follows:

• turn off the voltage by turning off the machine or unscrewing the plugs;
• make sure that there is no voltage indicator;
• dismantle the old outlet;
• separate the body of the new outlet from the working node;
• clean the contacts of electrical wires;
• connect the stripped ends to the terminals;
• fix the working node in the socket;
• install the socket housing;
• turn on electricity;
• check the functionality.

This is what it looks like detailed instructions indicating how to properly connect the outlet. Next, we will consider in more detail each of the connection stages, as well as the differences due to different kind devices.

Preparatory stage

First and most important: be sure to de-energize the room. If we connect the socket at home, it is enough to turn off the machine or unscrew the plugs. It is desirable that the machine is located inside the apartment, and not on the landing. Multi-storey buildings, with electric meters outside the apartments, have situations where there is no automatic machine inside the apartment. This complicates the task because the power panel remains out of control. In this case, it is desirable that someone stay on the landing at the shield during the work on connecting the outlet. After de-energizing the network, take the indicator and make sure that the outlet is really not energized.

The situation when the socket for connecting the device is completely ready: a socket is fixed in it, electrical wires are brought out, is not so common. Much more often there are cases in which it is necessary to replace the old outlet or install it in a new place. The latter option usually complicates the whole procedure, requires wiring, preparing a nest in the wall. All this adds time, and for the built-in outlet there is still dust and is a completely different story.

Let us dwell on the case when the nest, with the wiring connected to it, already exists. If it is occupied by an old outlet, it must be dismantled. A screwdriver is enough for this. Unscrew the fixing screw and remove the cover. It remains to remove the working unit. For the built-in model, there are two options for attaching it: using spacer tabs or screws to the socket. According to the type of installation, loosen the legs or unscrew the screws. Carefully remove the working unit from the socket. It remains to disconnect the wires from the terminals by loosening the clamping screws. In the case of a spring clamp (automatic terminal), the wire is removed after pressing the release button. It is advisable to clean the socket from dust, if any. If not, you need to install it. However, even if you have an old socket, you may want to replace it with a new one.

Outlet socket equipment

Installing a socket for concrete wall delay the installation process. This is due to the method of fastening the product with alabaster or other building mix. It is necessary to prepare a solution, tightly, carefully cover all the cracks between the socket box and the wall, wait until the mixture has completely solidified. The wall socket for plasterboard walls has special presser feet, it is attached much faster.

Note: do not forget to pass the electrical wires through the holes of the socket before installing it, they must be inside the box.

If electrical cable paired, then with a knife we ​​carefully cut the braid in the center and separate the cores so that their ends can be brought to the terminals with different parties outlet base. It is not recommended to skip both zero and phase lines together on one side of the base.

We clean the removed wires by about 10 mm from the winding. If the cable is single-core, then carefully cut off the insulating layer with a sharp knife, trying not to damage the core. In most cases, it is aluminum, inaccurate actions during stripping can lead to notches on the core, which subsequently becomes a point of local heating under load. For a stranded wire, you must first carefully make an incision in a circle, then remove the insulation. It is also desirable to tin the stripped ends of the stranded cable. It remains to connect the electrical wires to the socket terminals. However, there are options here as well.

Terminal types

There are three types of socket terminals: screw and spring clamp, as well as a clamp. The most common design in old houses is the screw clamp design, when the wire is pressed against the contact plate by tightening the screw. In this case, the end is either simply wound up and pressed, or pre-rolled into a ring. The second option is preferable, as it increases the contact area, its density, which reduces heating under electrical load. Moreover, it is recommended to flatten the ring around the circumference. This can be done with a hammer on an anvil. Such a simple manipulation will further increase the contact area.

Note: low contact area limits the power of connected devices. High load in this case, it can lead to melting of the plug, as well as the body of the socket at the point of contact with the rod.

If the terminal is of the "clamp" type, then the straight stripped end of the wire is simply threaded into the hole and tightened with a screw. In this case, the clamping is carried out only by the screw head, which has a number of disadvantages. First, the low contact area. Secondly, by applying excessive force, you can pinch the aluminum core, deforming or even breaking it. If the screw is not tightened, then the contact will be fragile. All this will lead to strong heating of the contact point and sparking of the outlet. Therefore, this type of terminal is best used for stranded wiring. The disadvantage is also the limitation of the cross section of the wires with the diameter of the inlet of the terminal.

The modern type of clamp is spring, or as it is also called an automatic terminal. Does not require a screw, provides high-quality contact, thanks to the high force of the spring clamp. The wire is fixed by means of the spring terminal key.

Such models have a long service life. This is related to the following. When heated under load, the contact part of the wire expands. Turning off the device leads to cooling of the contact and its narrowing. Over time, this daily process “blurs” the contact, the socket begins to overheat or spark. The spring mechanism allows flexible self-regulation, constantly ensuring tight contact between the supply wire and the terminal.

People who have not dealt with electricity may wonder which of the terminals to connect the phase to, and where to place zero. It doesn't matter, absolutely. However, electricians have their own rules. Usually the phase is connected to the terminal located closer to the window. When it is difficult to determine such a side, then the phase wire is installed on the left clamp, if you are facing the wall. Again, this is of no practical importance.

Note: Distinguishing the phase from zero is quite simple, but this is done with the electricity turned on. The indicator is alternately brought by the contact tip to each of the wires. thumb hands hold the contact on the indicator handle pressed. When the tip touches the phase wire, the light of the product will start to shine.

Socket base fixing

Standard fastening of the working unit in the box is carried out using spacer legs. The connected wires are neatly tucked into free space socket box, the base is installed exactly, parallel to the wall. Further, by alternately screwing in the clamping screws of the spacer legs, the working part is fixed.

Modern socket boxes have special holes for mounting the socket base. In this design, fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws.

However, both options are not reliable enough. The socket fixed in this way will sit well in the wall if you constantly remove the plug from it according to the rules: holding the case with one hand. However, there are situations when the second hand is busy. In addition, children rarely follow the rules. Therefore, the “household” removal of the plug with one hand, sooner or later, will lead to loosening of the fastening and backlash of the product.

You can spend ten minutes more to connect the outlet and forget about this problem. It is enough to attach the metal base diagonally, through its corner holes, with concrete or plastic anchors.

It remains to install the cover in place by screwing it with a screw. We connect the electricity back, check the operation of the outlet.

Connecting an overlay model

Some old buildings have external wiring. In such cases, overhead sockets are installed on the walls. Sometimes this type of product is mounted even with hidden wiring, since it does not require the "arrangement" of the socket under the box. This provides lower energy costs and shortens the time to install an outlet in a new location.

The principle of connecting the overhead model is the same as for the built-in one. The only exception is the dismantling of the old and the installation of a new product. outdoor socket consists of three parts, front panel, housing, working unit with terminals.

First, the screws securing the front part are unscrewed, it is removed. Next, unscrew the fasteners holding the old outlet on the wall, remove it. Similarly, we analyze the new model. We install its body on the wall, attaching it with concrete or plastic anchors.

We start an electric cable. With external wiring, electrical wires can be covered in a corrugation. Modern outdoor sockets are usually equipped with a plug that allows for several different cable diameters. We cut off the plug according to the required size, we pass electrical wires there. In the case of concealed wiring, the power cable starts from the back of the base.

We connect electrical wires to the node with terminals, as for the option with a built-in socket. We fix the working part of the product on its base. We install the front panel, fixing it with screws.

Do not forget to de-energize the room before starting work, and check the absence of electricity with an indicator.

Installing a Grounded Socket

Modern buildings provide for a ground loop. Then, the supply cable, which is brought into each dwelling, consists of three cores: phase, zero working and protective. There is a generally accepted color scheme conductor designations:

• working zero - blue, blue-white;
• grounding - yellow, green, yellow-green;
• phase - other colors.

Knowing the location of the wires, there is nothing complicated in the process, how to connect a socket with grounding. When the output cores have the same color, an indicator will come to the rescue. With it, you can accurately determine the phase. Distinguishing zero from ground is more difficult, even using a tester will not help so easily. You can alternately measure the voltage between the phase and the remaining contacts. Greater value will be between ground and phase. To confirm, determine the voltage between ground and grounded device. The arrow of the device should remain at zero. When checking zero - a grounded device should have a small voltage.

You can start connecting the socket with grounding. As always, the first thing we turn off the electricity. We go through all the stages, as in the case of a conventional built-in model. We connect the wires corresponding to the phase and zero to the current-carrying terminals. We connect the ground wire to the terminal with the "antennae" located on the socket housing.

Do not attempt to connect ground if the building design does not provide for it. There are options for using a zero core as a working and protective zero. This is contrary to the rules of operation and poses a threat to all residents.

In case of violation of the integrity of the zero core, electrical equipment cases may appear under the phase. There is also the possibility that someone will swap the zero and phase on the switchboard, as a result of which the phase will again fall on the housings of electrical appliances.