How to install legs on a countertop. Plinth for the kitchen how to install, types

In most modern kitchen sets, the lower modules are installed on adjustable legs- supports and are covered with a single table top. With the help of adjustable legs, you can compensate for unevenness and slope of the floor, thereby leveling the overall tabletop covering the lower cabinets. Adjustable ones are able to withstand significant loads and can be plastic and metal, which also perform a decorative function.

Plastic kitchen supports do not have a very attractive appearance, but a special clip is included with the leg, with which it is attached to the support. The kitchen set, installed completely on plastic legs, closes at the bottom decorative plinth which can be removed if necessary. If you want to leave the legs open, then you should install decorative metal legs- supports.

Four kitchen supports are enough for one bottom module up to 800 mm wide. Wider and angular cabinets need more furniture legs. Also, if a vertical partition passes in the lower module, it is also desirable to install supports under it.

Regardless of the material installation of adjustable supports similar to each other. The kitchen leg is attached to the chipboard with four 16 mm self-tapping screws and one central bolt. Before installing the kitchen legs, set all the supports to the lowest position, that is, fully screw them.

Flip the bottom module over and start marking. Please note that if you plan to close the bottom of the kitchen set with a plinth, then step back 80 - 100 mm along the front edge to fix the legs. This is done with the aim that when you stand at the desktop, your legs will not rest on the plinth. Where the legs cannot be closed with a plinth, it will not be enough to move away from the edge by 50 mm.

To fix, mount one kitchen leg, step back 50 mm from both sides, draw a cross and put a dot at the intersection. Attach kitchen leg to the bottom of the module so that the dot is under one of the four holes. The other two holes should be above the lines of the drawn cross. Screw on the markup three screws, then screw the fourth. Do the same with the rest of the legs.

Then, when you install all the legs on the kitchen set, proceed to align the lower cabinets on the countertop using a level and adjustable feet. Cover the lower modules with a tabletop. Achieve a horizontal position of the countertop by adjusting the outer legs of the kitchen set. Then screw out the remaining supports so that they are firmly on the floor.

Installing the legs on the kitchen set with your own hands is not difficult, this requires care and accuracy.

Dacha is, of course, the place where you want to take a break from the bustle of the city, breathe in Fresh air and just drink fragrant herbal tea on the veranda. And the special charm of such a simple ceremony will be given by the arrangement of the dacha with furniture made independently.

When choosing materials for a table, first of all, you should pay attention to the quality of wood - not all wood is suitable for use. conifers, such as spruce and pine, are malleable and easy to work with, but such material is more flammable without proper processing, and the resins released can ruin the tablecloth.

Hardwoods (aspen, oak, ash) are more advantageous, products made from them are strong, durable and have an attractive appearance.

Materials and tools

For internal arrangement dachas and country houses long narrow ones are more acceptable, allowing you to move freely around the room. This should be taken into account when preparing everything necessary for work and designing the table itself.

For a table, it is preferable to use a board with a thickness of at least 30 mm. This thickness will ensure the strength of the table and the ability to withstand heavy loads. The optimal length ranges from 150-200 cm. Two ready-made wooden shields 30-2000 mm in size can be purchased.

Balusters or wooden bars for legs. Curly balusters will give homemade table production chic and luxurious look. And for the manufacture of legs from a bar, you need to choose boards with a minimum section of 50x50 mm. Comfortable Height the table is provided with a leg height of approximately 73-75 cm.

Other materials and tools

1. Boards 20 mm thick and 8-10 cm wide for the tabletop frame.
2. Wood putty.
3. Screwdriver and self-tapping screws 30 and 50 mm.
4. Sandpaper of various grits, as well as a holder.
5. Clamps for fixing legs and countertops.
6. Electric drill.
7. Sander.
8. Building level.
9. Square.
10. Roulette or centimeter.
11. Marker.
12. Glue.

Manufacturing steps

When preparing materials, all boards and beams are processed with a planer, grinder or coarse-grained sandpaper to remove irregularities, the remnants of cut knots, clean up cracks. The boards must be even and smooth, so they are sanded from all sides, including the ends, edges and corners.

If it is planned to manufacture a solid shield without gaps, then it is better to purchase grooved materials - this will create a stronger adhesion of a single web and save time on fitting elements. Chamfers are cut from the edges of the bars for the legs.

Table frame assembly

The frame helps to increase the strength and stability of the table, its dimensions are completely dependent on the parameters of the tabletop, but there are several general rules: both in length and in width, the frame should be 30-25 cm less than the countertop.

Video - Making a dining table for a summer residence

The frame itself is assembled from 4 boards that form the outer frame, and 6 internal cross bars. The boards are installed on the edge at a right angle using a square and tightened with 50 mm self-tapping screws. The joints are pre-lubricated with glue (PVA or carpentry). To prevent splitting of the boards, you can drill pilot holes in them and only then screw in the screws.

Along the length of the frame, markings are made for the cross bars, and guides are drilled. It is very important that the cross members are strictly perpendicular to both sides of the frame frame. The ends of the cross bars are smeared with glue, and the whole structure is fixed with self-tapping screws. Make sure that the screw heads do not protrude, but are completely “drowned” in the wood.

Table frame (manufacturing option)

The boards of the tabletop are connected, leveled with a tape measure and stacked face down on the floor, a frame is placed on top so that the cross planks lie tightly on the tabletop. Guides for self-tapping screws are drilled in the slats, and all elements are tightened with 30 mm screws. There are 5-6 self-tapping screws for each cross board.

Assembling the table legs

The tabletop is laid on a workbench or several stools for the subsequent installation of legs. The table leg is fixed in the corner of the frame with clamps, and guides for self-tapping screws are drilled in the frame.

Before attaching the legs, glue is applied to the end of the bar - this will protect the table from loosening and will contribute to greater strength. It is recommended to fix the leg on each side with four screws, but if desired, you can additionally use metal corners. Round balusters are fixed with long self-tapping screws on the front side of the table, and square ones - on corner fasteners.

Finishing

After installing the legs, the table is turned over and placed on the floor. Depending on the design of the table, corners are sawn off with a jigsaw along the radius or the end is completely rounded. Bevels can be cut from the edges of the tabletop and everything is carefully sanded.

If necessary, scratches and cracks resulting from work are repaired on wood. It is better not to touch the heads of the screws so that it is possible to tighten the structure.

After the final grinding, all dust and chips are removed from the table, and the product itself is covered with stain or several layers of varnish.

Tables with elements of decoupage decor or a single painting look beautiful and unusual. But to hide the beauty natural wood under a layer of paint is not worth it, modern varnishes and impregnations will perform all necessary work to protect the product from moisture.

Video - Table with legs for giving

Option 2. Stump table

Unusual and in a non-standard way to equip the backyard space is the creation of interior items from natural materials. When ennobling the territory, old or threatening trees are often cut down. If there is or was just such a tree at your dacha, then there will definitely be no problems finding a suitable stump. If the idea came spontaneously, then you can look for the desired stump in the clearings, in the nearest forest, or ask the owners of neighboring plots.

Materials and tools

To make such a fantasy table from a stump, you will need quite a bit:

• wood for the countertop, the recommended thickness of the countertop is from 20 mm, when choosing boards, you must follow the rule “the larger the countertop, the larger the cut of the board”;
• stump. For work, you will need a dried stump of any kind of wood, the main thing is that the wood is whole, not damp and not rotten. If the tree was cut down recently, then the stump must be properly dried. And it is better to do this by placing the stump in a warm, dry room or outdoors in sunny weather. It must be remembered that several weeks is not enough time for high-quality drying. As a rule, the whole process takes at least two months. You can determine the condition of the wood by the ease of separation of the bark - if the bark moves away without effort, then you can get to work;
• varnish for wood water based natural shade or transparent. It is this composition that will best emphasize the texture and dignity of natural wood;
• sandpaper of various grain sizes and a holder;
• planer or grinder;
• chisel;
• building level;
• roulette;
• hammer and nails;
• screwdriver and screws;
• abrasive fibre.

Manufacturing steps

Stage 1

The dried blank of the future table must be cleaned of bark. For this step, a chisel or chisel will come in handy. It is necessary to remove the bark very carefully and carefully so as not to damage the wood and prevent the appearance of cracks and splits. All soft and rotten areas also need to be removed.

Stage 2

After the bark has been removed, the stump must be leveled relative to the horizontal plane. To do this, using a level, a flat surface is prepared, and the base of the future table is installed on it.

If curvature is observed, then the shortcomings are eliminated with a planer. At the same stage of work, excessively large rhizomes of the stump and all unnecessary parts are sawn off with a hacksaw, the cuts from which are then polished.

Stage 3

The leveled stump is polished with a disc grinder, especially its horizontal parts. The sides of the stump are also polished, and hard-to-reach places are processed with coarse-grained sandpaper. This is a rather laborious process that requires a significant investment of time.

Stage 4

Cracks and recesses in the trunk must be cleaned of dirt and dust with a chisel, after which they should be carefully folded in half (working layer outward) with sandpaper to carefully process them from the inside. The remains of wood dust are cleaned with a brush or a building vacuum cleaner.

Stage 5

To prevent rotting of the stump and ensure air circulation between the table and the floor, furniture legs can be attached to the base from below. The presence of legs will make it more convenient to move the table.

You can choose any legs: metal, furniture wheels or special rubberized stands. It is best to fix them with self-tapping screws to the base of the stump, the number is chosen arbitrarily, based on the size of the table.

Stage 6

After installing the legs, we proceed to the crate of the upper part of the stump. To do this, we fill two parallel planks perpendicularly on the sidewalls, and on top two more rows of holders - a total of 6 planks fastened together with nails. This will be the frame for the countertop.

Stage 7

We fasten the prepared tabletop boards from below with transverse slats. The shape of the tabletop can be very diverse: round, rectangular, with rounded corners. The winning option looks like a table with a round or oval top.

To give this form, you can use homemade device from a thread, a pencil and a nail: the end of the thread is tied around the pencil, and the tip of the nail is placed in the middle of the tabletop, outlining the circle with a selected radius, after which all the excess is sawn off, and the edges and surface of the tabletop are processed with a grinder.

Stage 8

Holes and defects in the boards can be decorated with finely chipped shiny stones, filling them with varnish and processing after drying again with a grinder to smooth the surface.

The finished tabletop is fixed from below on the crate with holders on nails or self-tapping screws matched to the size.

The finished table is varnished in several layers. After applying the first layer, the product is thoroughly dried and processed with fine-grained sandpaper. This will prevent flaking of the varnish, and subsequent layers will lie more evenly.

After removing the dust, the second and subsequent layers of varnish are applied without grouting. Optional, after drying last layer can be treated with abrasive fiber - this will remove excessive shine and give the surface a dull finish.

Such creative table will decorate any veranda, especially in a pleasant frame of green bushes or flower beds.

Video - Do-it-yourself table for giving from a stump

On the Structural Effect of Seasonal Deformations

Any board, be it a glued board or a solid piece of wood, is subject to swelling and shrinkage depending on the season and humidity fluctuations. Tightly fixed countertops, deprived of the ability to freely contract and expand, under the influence of internal stresses begin to deform - warp, bend, twist and eventually crack.

With seasonal changes in moisture levels, wood expands and contracts predominantly across the grain. Countertops of a room or kitchen set change their width within 1 cm, depending on the size of the lid and the type of wood. Linear changes along the fibers are insignificant.

Fixing the tabletop with screws

This is a simple and time-tested option for attaching the tabletop to the side of the table without the use of additional fittings. The special taper extension chosen in the drawer side allows for a slight movement of the screw when changing the dimensions of the tabletop. The lid itself is securely attached to the case.

Having made the basic markup, an end hole is drilled in the drawer. After that, with a wide semicircular chisel, a pocket is chosen for hidden installation screw.

A narrow chisel makes an angular expansion on the upper edge of the tsarga. The lengthening of this groove is always made across the fibers of the countertop, since the wood expands and contracts in this direction.

Mounting with screws in such pockets allows you to get rid of unnecessary structural elements under the table top. It is traditionally used in furniture classical style where they prefer to use exclusively wooden details. With all its advantages, this method of hidden fastening is quite laborious.

Using small metal Z-brackets is another popular way to secure a countertop. The main advantages of this method are low cost, maximum simplicity and accuracy of installation, no need for additional structural elements.

One end of the steel holder is screwed to the table top with a screw. The second is inserted into the groove sawn in the upper edge of the tsarga. The recess is made in such a way that the edge of the bracket does not rest against the tree and moves freely in the groove when it expands. Thus, fasteners allow the countertop to change its dimensions in any direction without consequences.

Mounting on wooden clamps

Using homemade wooden clamps is simple and reliable way fastening the tabletop to the underframe without purchased fittings. Clamps work on the same principle as metal Z-brackets. They are easy to mass-produce from scraps that can be found in every workshop. Of course, this takes time, but often not much more than a trip to the hardware store takes.

When making wood clamps, remember to follow the correct grain orientation as shown in the diagram to give the bracket proper strength.

Figure-of-eight steel fasteners are another popular hardware option used to fasten countertops. The bracket is installed in a small recess drilled with a Forstner drill or a square recess selected with a chisel so that it is flush with the upper edge of the drawer. The holder is fixed with two screws: one to the body, the second to the back of the tabletop as shown in the photo. When the board swells or shrinks, the bracket rotates slightly, preventing the wood cover from bending. The recommended distance between fasteners is 15-20 cm.

G-8 holders are of two types: with washers of the same and different sizes. In the latter case, a washer with a large diameter is attached to the tsarga. Having decided to fix the countertop on a kitchen or room set in this way, you need to make sure in advance that the thickness of the drawer fits the diameter of the washer.

Using slotted spacers

In this case, two or three additional spacers with rectangular grooves 10-15 mm long are attached to the side of the headset. When changing the width of the tabletop, the screws will move freely in the grooves, thus preventing structural deformations of the wood. Additional slats work like a screed, they increase the rigidity of the body and protect the sides from deformation.

Table leg fixing

The legs of the table are attached to the sides of the supporting frame, and the table top is fixed on them. In order to ensure a tight connection of the tsarg with the legs and compensate for the shrinkage of the tree during humidity fluctuations, the following fastening methods are used.

Joiner's connection thorn-nest

Advantages : high strength, the absence of additional fittings and unnecessary fasteners, ease of manufacture.

In the kitchen, the bulk of the entire working space is occupied by floor cabinets. They are designed to store dishes, food and other utensils. They are embedded in household appliances such as: dishwashers, ovens, stoves and more. And, of course, most of floor cabinet acts as a work surface. All these requirements for a headset require its reliability and convenience, and adjusting legs for cabinets can help with this. What are they, what are their advantages and how to properly install them? Let's consider in order.

Legs for kitchen floor cabinets

When purchasing a ready-made or custom-made kitchen set, the first thing you should pay attention to is its base. The most common options for its execution is a kitchen base or legs. More rarely, lower cabinets are attached to the side wall, creating the effect of furniture floating in the air.

Adjustable kitchen legs

The main requirements put forward to the kitchen base are:

1. Strength Endurance. The base is the support for everything. He has to withstand the weight of not only the furniture itself, but also all the utensils that are stored inside it. And sometimes the weight of a person with power loads that occur during the cooking process at the cutting table.
2. The second function that the base must perform concerns appearance products. It shouldn't come out of overall design throughout the kitchen, and harmoniously match it.

On the video - adjustable legs for the kitchen:

Now, given the main requirements, consider the options for the basis for the kitchen set.

It would seem that such a simple question as fixing a countertop with a modern abundance of building materials should not cause difficulties. But precisely great amount options and makes you think about the best way. It’s also good when you just need to lay the work surface on the frame of the furniture module and provide it with only additional support. But cantilever wall mounting requires a more serious and balanced approach. Below we will consider both options, but for now it is worth deciding in which cases it is generally necessary to fix the work surface.

When is it necessary to do without additional fixation?

The countertop in the kitchen sometimes takes on very tangible loads. When cutting products, it only requires a sufficient area and a flat surface. But often we load the table with a small household appliances. Microwave, oven, portable Dishwasher, coffee maker, mini-bar - all these items in the kitchen often “settle” on the table, and here you will already need to fix it well.

The neat appearance of the kitchen should not be discounted either - an unfixed countertop can sometimes move, forming a noticeable gap in contact with the wall. Not only does this spoil the picture a little, but also particles of products will accumulate there. It is useless to attach a decorative plinth to such a movable surface. And if the design of the headset is such that freely hanging ends appear at the tabletop, instead of a reliable work surface, you become the owner of an analogue of a children's swing. So even the top plate lying on the pedestals is better to be attached to the wall so that it “does not play”.

Sometimes the only way to increase the functionality of a small kitchen is to make additional surfaces with your own hands where you can place appliances or process food. You can’t provide support for such countertops from below, but fixing them on the wall is quite realistic. And of course, you can’t do without it if built-in appliances are hidden under the work surface - refrigerators compartment or washing machine.

Methods for attaching countertops

The choice of fixing the table against the wall depends not only on the loads, but also on the material of the working surface. Of course, the easiest way to deal with laminated chipboard, MDF and wood - for such elements, the headset does not need a professional tool, as is the case with heavy agglomerate or natural stone. For metal table top also, special skills or devices are not needed - it is enough to choose the right type of fastening and be careful during installation.

In the meantime, let's prepare the main tool:

• The level is better than the usual carpenter's spirit level.
• A powerful electric drill or hammer drill if the walls are reinforced concrete, plus a set of appropriate drills.
• Screwdriver (sometimes you can get by with a Phillips screwdriver).
• Center punch and hammer.

Mounting on brackets

This is the most common way to mount the work surface, when the load on the walls is transferred through a special profile. For a standard worktop, a single bracket with a height of about 350 mm with a shoulder of 500 mm is suitable. You can take a couple of corner supports, but not so powerful, but it is better to keep the length of the shoulder.

The longer the countertop, the more brackets you will need to mount to compensate for its bending under load.

Work order:

1. Determine the installation location of the bracket so that it does not interfere with the furniture and appliances located below, but maintains the countertop at the desired height.
2. Make a mark on the wall and use the level to lower the perpendicular out of it - this marking is attached vertical part bracket.
3. Attach the part to the resulting axis, mark the points for the screws. If necessary, they can be immediately screwed up.
4. Drill holes in the wall and hammer dowels into the sockets.

Then it all depends on the features of the countertop. If it's thick chipboard sheet or wooden shield, it is better to attach the bracket arm to its reverse side with short self-tapping screws (25 mm) - they should not pierce the plate through and through. Thin panels can be glued to liquid nails. Special strength is not needed here, it is enough to ensure the immobility of the surface resting on the bracket. assembled structure all that remains is to attach it to the wall and fix it with a pair of self-tapping screws - they will open the already clogged dowels, and you will get a reliable anchor connection.

Similarly, you can attach the tabletop in a niche, where it will be surrounded by walls on three sides. Here it is better to use short brackets or even replace them with perforated metal corners, but also install them along the sides. Pay attention to the thickness of the steel - in this case, plates of 2.5-3 mm will be optimal.

Beam installation

How independent option this method of fixing the countertop should not be considered, but if you just need to immobilize it after laying it on the bottom row of cabinets, then it is quite suitable. Often cabinets are inexpensive kitchen sets have a smaller depth than the table tops that come with the kit. This allows you to install them in one row with a sink and a stove, withstanding the gaps necessary for other communications. But as a result, the work surface near the wall just hangs in the air and needs to be attached.

Work order:

1. Lay the countertop on the pedestals that are tightened and leveled, mark the line of the upper edge on the wall, after which the slab must be removed.
2. Measure the thickness and put the resulting millimeters down from the markup, draw a horizontal line using the level. This is the line that corresponds to the bottom edge of the countertop, and the beam should be attached along it.
3. Choose a sufficiently strong beam, measure the height of its profile in order to determine the central axis - a third is drawn under it below the two previous strips.
4. According to the last marking, nests for dowels are made, and reciprocal holes are made in the timber.
5. After checking the horizontal position, it remains to attach the beam to the wall with anchor bolts, and lay the countertop on it.

Such a support distributes the load of the work surface better, but due to the small width of the contact it cannot be used on its own - only when the countertop is supported by vertical supports (cabinet walls). It is advisable to impregnate the beam itself with an antiseptic, paint or varnish it, since it will have to serve in conditions high humidity. You can use a metal corner, but it is harder to work with it, and its super reliability with this method of fastening will remain unclaimed.

Fixed tabletop when finished finishing works it is worth equipping with a small plinth. It will close the joint at the wall and make it much easier to clean the kitchen. Decorative slats can be made from any material - depending on the design working area. plastic and wooden plinth it is better to mount on self-tapping screws, tiles, metal or fake diamond enough to glue with a transparent sealant.