How to assemble a carpentry workbench with your own hands. Do-it-yourself metal workbench

The garage is not only a building for storing a car and various utensils. It can repair the car and other products. In this case, you can not do without a good locksmith workbench. You can assemble it yourself, but it is important to understand the features of its design and take into account the mistakes that are often made when assembling such structures. The article will talk about the requirements for a good workbench and provide an idea for self assembly.

Build errors

It is important to understand well what not to do when designing and assembling a metal workbench. The first step is to pay attention to the place where the locksmith workbench will be installed. Often, when pouring the floor in the garage, they are guided by the rule "and so it will do." But this leads to large differences in the plane, which negatively affects the locksmith workbench. For example, some craftsmen who decide to make a metal workbench for themselves on eight or six supports are faced with the fact that after installation, half of the supports are in the air, and the workbench itself is thrown from side to side.

It is very inconvenient to work at such a locksmith's workbench, and small parts are constantly lost. The way out of this situation can be the construction of adjustable supports. In this case, powerful bolts are installed in the lower part, which will allow you to level the bench in a horizontal position. Another option would be surface preparation. To do this, the part of the screed that has already been filled is removed and a new one is poured, which is clearly aligned with the horizon. In this case, it will not be necessary to manufacture additional parts for the table supports.

Another solution to this error is to reduce the number of supports to 4 pieces. In this case, it will be easier to achieve right position even on uneven surface. With proper design and construction of the frame, there should be no problems with the stability of the entire structure. Additionally, a shelf or several shelves for storing consumables and tools are built at the bottom of the locksmith's workbench. One of them should be as close to the floor surface as possible. In this case, a heavy tool that can be placed on it will act as a balancer for the entire frame.

Design nuances

It is always possible to avoid assembling a locksmith table with your own hands. In this case, you can buy cheap consumer goods or a product that was used by the master. But each of these options has significant disadvantages. In the first case, there is no guarantee that such a locksmith workbench will last a long time, because cheap options are assembled from production waste, and not high-quality material. Used products may have excellent strength characteristics and attractive designs, but they may not always meet the specific requirements of the garage where they are to be installed. That's why the best way there will be an assembly of our own design according to the developed drawing.

There are several factors that allow you to collect the maximum convenient design for your needs in locksmith work. When designing, it is important to consider:

• height;
• width;
• depth;
• strength.

The first and one of the most important factors is correct selection height for the future metalwork construction. If the workbench turns out to be lower than required, then there will be a large load on the back, since you will have to work in a bent state. If the height of the locksmith's workbench is too high, you will have to strain your legs and arms to reach the details. The ideal option is when the countertop is at the level of the navel. In this case, the forearms and hands lie perfectly on the plane and you do not have to strain your back.

There are no strict rules regarding the width of the locksmith's workbench. It all depends on what products will be placed on it. AT classic version the width is selected according to the person's height. In this case, standing in the middle, it will be possible to reach any point of the workbench. The depth of the product should be such that you do not have to bend down to get an object lying in the depth. Usually 50 or 60 cm is enough. Special attention should pay attention to the strength of the structure. It is impossible to overdo it with this indicator, because you have to work with heavy tools on the bench and sometimes apply strong blows by details.

Advice! The construction of a workbench for metalwork should be carried out only from metal. Wooden structures are not able to withstand the required load, even if you pick up hardwoods and sheathe them with metal.

DIY manufacturing

For a sample for self-manufacturing you can take a table with two side cabinets. This table has four legs. In place of one cabinet, you can build shelves for easy access, and on the other, install drawers in which it is easy to store small things. To implement the entire project, you will need the following material:

• profile pipe with a size of 6 × 4 cm;
• corner 5 × 5 cm;
• sheet metal for countertops.

It is necessary to prepare horizontal beams from a profile pipe. You will need three or four of them. The length will depend on personal needs, but two meters is usually sufficient. Vertical racks are selected in accordance with their own growth, as described above. They are made from the same profiled pipe, you will need four pieces. The wall thickness of the profiled pipe should be at least 2 mm.

Additionally, ten blanks are prepared for the frame of the locksmith's table for shelves and drawers. You can refer to the dimensions above. To strengthen the structure, you will need jibs that will be fixed in the corners. From the purchased corner, vertical racks are prepared, on which a stand will be fixed for hand tool. You will need four of these racks. Their height is usually 2 meters.

Note! To implement the entire project for the construction of a workbench, approximately 225 meters of square pipe will be required. The corner for the racks will need 8 meters, and the shank with a thickness of 4 mm and a width of 40 mm will need about 10 meters.

The square tube itself does not have the required fracture toughness. That is why a metal corner is welded around the perimeter of the workbench. Thanks to correct location corner turns out to be a frame in which it will be easy to lay a metal sheet, which will act as a countertop. The table top of the workbench does not have to be made of thick sheet metal, since its cost can be quite high. Another option would be to lay durable boards that are covered sheet metal with less thickness. This design absorbs sound better on impact and has less recoil.

Advice! Additionally, a layer of rubber can be laid between the board and the metal sheet of the tabletop of the locksmith's workbench, which will act as a shock absorber.

Frame assembly

Assembling the construction of a locksmith's workbench is not difficult if you have the skill to work with a welding machine. Thanks to the prepared details, everything becomes simple and clear. The best solution would be to use a semi-automatic, and not arc welding. In this case, the material is heated to the required temperature and does not burn out from the electrode. The seams are neat and strong.

The first step is to make a rectangular base for the construction of a locksmith workbench. This will require two blanks, the length of which is equal to the depth of the table, and two blanks, the length of which is equal to the width of the workbench. The ends are cut with a grinder at an angle of 45 degrees to provide a perfect junction. Workbench blanks are laid out on a flat horizontal surface. Initially, they must be fixed with small tacks and trimmed if necessary. Next, a full seam is applied to the structure. In this case, you will need to make a penetration on the other side.

The next step is to install the four racks of the locksmith's workbench. They are welded to the prepared frame. They must be placed vertically. After that, it executes bottom trim on three sides. At the same stage, vertical racks are welded under the tool stand, which will be located above the locksmith's workbench. The next step is the installation of frames for drawers and shelves, as seen in the photo above. At the same time, an additional crossbar is fixed between them, but it is welded with an offset to the middle, so that it is convenient to stand behind the bench.

Final work

When the frame is ready, you can weld a corner on top for a benchtop worktop. The board is cut according to the dimensions obtained and fits into the grooves. Before that, it must be treated with an antiseptic and flame retardants so that it does not ignite while working on a workbench. This is especially true in those cases when two parts are welded on a metal workbench or work with a tool from which sparks fly. After laying the board on the workbench, you can place a metal sheet, as seen in the photo. To the high uprights sheets of plywood are screwed into which holes for the tool are drilled.

To prevent the tool from spilling out on the sides, it is necessary to sew up the walls using plywood or other suitable material. Holders for partitions are being built in the bedside table on the left, which will act as shelves. On the right in the workbench, according to the drawing, boxes are planned that can be assembled from a board that fits under the workbench tabletop.

The metal is exposed to corrosion from moisture, so the surface must be protected with paint. Before painting, it is necessary to clean the frame of the locksmith's workbench grinder and degrease. After that, a layer of primer is applied. After complete drying, the frame of the workbench is covered with a finishing layer of enamel. It should be a paint that is resistant to temperature, as well as mechanical stress.

Typically, a bench has a vise and a small anvil. Under them, you can provide an additional basis. Such modules are mounted on the locksmith's workbench on the left, so that they have easy access, and they do not interfere with the main work. Another important device for a locksmith's workbench is lighting. It must be installed from above in such a way that it is not blocked by the head and hands of the master. LED spotlights can be used as light sources for a locksmith's workbench. Several of them are installed permanently and several must move along the plane of the workbench. In this case, it will be possible to choose the best lighting angle.

Before starting work on a new locksmith workbench, it must be loaded to the maximum in order to ensure stability, as mentioned above. Some owners additionally fix supporting legs to concrete base through anchor bolts. A video with the assembly of another version of the locksmith table is below.

Summary

As you can see, the design of the locksmith table can be assembled independently. Assistance may be required when carrying out welding work, as this requires special skills and abilities. A second person can assist with assembly when it is necessary to hold the parts to be welded.

The device and purpose of the workbench

The carpenter's workbench is a workbench for manual and mechanical processing wooden products. The design and ergonomics of a classic carpentry workbench allow you to fix parts in various spatial positions and perform basic carpentry operations with maximum convenience: make wooden parts, assemble structures, cover them finishing compounds. The traditional carpenter's table is designed to work with lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. For processing longer pieces, a carpenter's workbench is used.

The carpentry table consists of a workbench (cover) and a workbench (bearing frame). A traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vices, with the help of which the workpieces are fixed in the required spatial positions.

There are holes in the table top and wooden vise jaws. They are designed to install clamps and stops of various sections and heights.

Having placed the stops in the desired configuration, a part is placed between them and pressed with a screw vise mechanism. Thus, the workpiece is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on the thickness of the wooden part, use a stop of the appropriate height, which will not protrude beyond the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.

How to choose the optimal workbench height?

The height of carpentry workbenches varies between 85-95 cm. Optimal Height tables are selected based on the growth of the master. If, standing at the workbench, the palms freely rest against its lid, then the size is chosen correctly. Behind such a workbench it will be convenient to perform all basic operations, without frequent bending and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.

What materials are best to make a structure?

The carpentry workbench must have sufficient strength and rigidity, since during operation it is subjected to heavy loads, both static, formed under the weight of massive workpieces, and dynamic, arising in the process of sawing, drilling, impacts, etc. Sufficient strength characteristics are provided not only by the features of fasteners, but also the type of materials used.

Coniferous wood is traditionally used for the manufacture of the base. The table top is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. The lumber used to create the workbench must be dry (moisture content of about 12%) without knots and other defects.

About making a bench cover

Experience shows that when making a carpentry workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to purchase a ready-made glued shield, which will become a blank for the lid. The effort and time spent on cutting, jointing the edges, gluing the shield and leveling it when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with the money saved.

When performing work that increases the risk of damage to the lid: drilling, chiselling, etc., it is better to cover the working surface of the workbench with a thick plywood sheet or fiberboard cut to the shape of the lid. It is advisable to make this simple flooring immediately with a workbench.

Manufacturing and assembly of sidewalls

The design of the sidewall consists of two legs (B), tsargs and supports (A). The part is assembled on a through glued spike.

Curly cutouts of the sides and supports (detail A) are cut out on a band saw, followed by grinding the edges.

In accordance with the dimensions indicated in the diagram, the legs are marked with sockets for the spikes of the prolegs, after which they are selected with a chisel or milled.

On the outer side of the legs, a conical recess is made for the head of the coupling bolt. A recess with a diameter of 35 mm and a depth of 11 mm is made with a Forstner drill. A through hole with a diameter of 14 mm is drilled in the center.

Sawing spikes and eyelets

Spikes and lugs are made on a saw machine or by hand, guided by the basic principles for creating spiked joints. In such a critical design, the first option is preferable, since it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a flawless fit of the connection. The workpieces must have prepared smooth surfaces and correspond to the dimensions indicated in the drawing.

The halves of parts A are glued together, having previously placed an insert in the groove that will prevent displacement.

Sidewall assembly

Parts A and B are glued into a finished joint. After drying, the excess glue that has come through is carefully cleaned with a chisel. The assembled sidewall is polished.

A hole 19x38 mm is drilled in the center of the glued drawer side under the dowel (L) to fix the cover of the workbench.

Production of prolegs and underbench shelves

According to the dimensions indicated in the drawing, blanks for prolegs (detail C) are cut out in the amount of 4 pieces. Spikes are made at the ends of each part, adhering to the dimensions indicated in the photo. As in the case of the sidewall, this operation is best done on a saw machine.

The connection of the prolegs with the sidewall is made detachable on a bolt screed with a transverse nut. To do this, a recess for transverse nuts d25 mm and a depth of 32 mm is milled on the inside of the prolegs. A hole of 14x95 mm is drilled at the ends of the prolegs. At this stage, it is better to use a drilling jig, since the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90 °.

The support strips (details D and E) are screwed with self-tapping screws with an offset of 22 mm from the upper edges of the prongs.

According to the dimensions specified in the “General Detailing” drawing, the slats of the bench shelf are cut out (detail F). Holes are drilled and countersinked at the ends of each plank. The planks are ground and sequentially mounted on the assembled frame.

Mounting the bench cover

Non-through holes d19 mm and 32 mm deep for dowels (L) are drilled on the back side of the workbench.

With a d19 mm drill, through holes are made on the lid for bench stops. Similar sockets 45 mm deep are drilled at the end of the cover. All holes are chamfered. The stops should easily enter the sockets and not play.

Advice! For all drilling operations, use a drill with a jig to ensure neat holes at a perfectly right angle. It is not difficult to make such a guide yourself, having a piece of timber at hand.

Bench vise installation

Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is more expedient to buy a carpentry vice at ready-made. In this case, you will get the most reliable and functional design, and, importantly, get rid of unnecessary headaches during their installation.

Manufacturers of bench vises strive to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we take a look at the wiring diagram. standard designs. But it is quite possible that you will have to improvise, adapting the installation to the features of non-standard bench vise.

Vice jaws - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - are sawn from hardwood. After that, holes are drilled for guide rods, a lead screw, sockets for bench stops and holes for mounting screws.

The rear jaws of the front and rear vise are mounted to the workbench cover as shown in the photo.

Wooden linings (detail K) are cut to fit the vise. Through holes are drilled in the drawers for the guide rods and the lead screw.

Advice! To accurately mark the holes, use the guides themselves, pieces of masking tape and a soft pencil.

It's no secret that well-equipped workplace- the key to the successful implementation of locksmith, electromechanical or installation work. The main subject in the garage or workshop, around which everything is arranged work zone, is a workbench. This desktop must have the necessary functionality, be durable and reliable. Buying a finished product in a distribution network can result in a tidy sum, so it's better to make it yourself. This will provide an opportunity not only to save money, but also to get garage table in exact accordance with the requests of functionality and placement.

Workbench with your own hands. How to do?

Below we will tell you how to make a wooden or metal workbench with your own hands. The presented designs do not require the use of any scarce parts or the use of expensive equipment, and during the installation process, you can get by with minimal carpentry and locksmith skills.

Making a workbench with your own hands (from wood)

Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands has a lot of advantages, which are that you can pre-arrange the locations of the vise and other devices, think over the number and location drawers etc.

Necessary tools and materials

To make your own workbench, you need to prepare the following tools:

• electric jigsaw or a hacksaw;
• electric drill and a set of drills for wood and metal;
• joiner's square;
• roulette;
• bubble level;
• set of wrenches.
• When stocking up on materials, be sure to pay attention that the wooden parts do not have cracks and knots. To get started, you will need:
• bars for support legs 100x100 mm;
• two plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm (OSB can be used). In this case, one sheet will go to the table top, and the other to the bottom shelf.
• boards 50x150 mm, from which the frame will be mounted;
• bolts (it is best to use furniture ones, with a square part that prevents them from rotating in wooden parts);
• washers and nuts;
• self-tapping screws.

To facilitate assembly and avoid mistakes when cutting material, it is better to make drawings of a workbench and indicate the dimensions of each part on it.

DIY workbench drawings

Workbench with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

First of all, you need to make upper frame underframe. To do this, in accordance with the drawing, boards of the desired length are sawn off.

Using self-tapping screws, long and short parts are fixed in such a way as to get a frame rectangular shape. After that, measure the distance to its middle along the long side, where the spacer bar is installed. In its capacity, the same board 50x150 mm is used, which is attached to the frame from both ends with self-tapping screws.

Workbench made of wood with your own hands. A photo

Support legs a workbench is made from 6 identical bars. For their fastening to the upper frame, long bolts with nuts and washers are used. To mount the support, the bar is placed in the corner of the frame and two through holes are drilled through the leg and side board. Then the connections are tightened using bolts with nuts.

To achieve the necessary rigidity of the structure, the lower boards are mounted. By the way, these same details will serve as the basis bottom shelf. To do this, in full accordance with the drawings of the workbench, saw off 4 wooden parts with a section of 50x150 mm.

To fix the bottom boards, measure 30 cm from the edge of each support. At this height, one piece is attached to the three rear legs of the structure, and from the front board is attached between the middle and side supports on the side where it will be installed additional shelf.

Two short boards are mounted at the same height on the sides of the workbench.

Using an electric jigsaw or hacksaw, OSB sheets or plywood cut parts for countertops. It is fixed flush to the top of the desktop with self-tapping screws. To protect the surface of the workbench from damage, a layer of hardboard is laid on top of the plywood, which, as it wears out, can be easily replaced with new material. To install the bottom shelf, measure the distance from the middle to the extreme legs. The material is cut to this size and with a jigsaw or a hacksaw in its corners cutouts are made for the support legs. The fastening of the shield to the lower base is carried out similarly to the installation of the tabletop.

To obtain the stability of the frame structure, when attaching the supports and assembling the frame of the bench workbench, be sure to use joiner's square. After installing the workbench, check the horizontal position of its location with a bubble level. If necessary, the level can be changed by placing small pieces of thin plywood under the legs.

Workbench with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

After the assembly is completed, the workbench is impregnated with a special protective composition, varnished or painted.

Small workbench for home DIY

The design of the locksmith workbench proposed below will greatly facilitate locksmith and installation work not only in a small garage, but also on a balcony, in a corner of a utility room, etc. With all the functionality and convenience of a full-size desktop, it won't take up a lot of space and can fit a variety of tools and accessories in its drawers.

table top small workbench It is made of two sheets of plywood glued together with a thickness of at least 18 mm and has dimensions of 1500x600 mm. To strengthen the table top, it has an additional thickening at the edges with two layers of plywood sheet, which gives a thickness of 72 mm.

Considering that 18 mm thick plywood is not the cheapest material (the cost of one sheet is about 1000 rubles), you can save a little if you buy a full-size sheet with dimensions of 2440x1220 mm. Unfortunately, this material is not enough to make a reinforcing strip, which is located around the perimeter of the lid, so you will have to additionally look for a small piece of plywood sheet. Otherwise, the design of the countertop will have to be changed.

Starting to build a small carpentry workbench with your own hands, prepare the following tools and materials:

• a rule with a length of at least 2 m;
• Circular Saw;
• joiner's square;
• notched trowel with a tooth size of 2x2 or 3x3 mm. You can buy a ready-made tool or make it yourself using a grinder;
• screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers;
• spanners;
• good wood glue, for example, "Moment Joiner"
• plywood 18mm thick;
• wooden beam 40x60 mm;
• self-tapping screws;
• bolts, nuts, washers.

In addition, for the independent manufacture of a workbench, you need to acquire good carpentry clamps, without which it will be problematic to glue plywood sheets. If a quality tool it is not possible to purchase, you can use inexpensive Chinese clamps, which will need twice the amount.

The process of making a workbench with your own hands begins with lids, on which a strip 1520 mm long is cut from a sheet of plywood 2440 mm long. Sawing this part, they get elements measuring 1520x610 mm to reinforce the sides of the lid. Then, as a rule, the plane of the plywood sheets is checked in order to orient them with a convex surface inward when gluing.

The next step will require maximum concentration and accuracy - within a couple of minutes you need to evenly distribute wood glue on the surface of one sheet of plywood. If you feel that a lack of experience will not give you the opportunity to cope with this work in such a short time, then use to connect wooden parts PVA furniture glue It has no time limits and allows the application of a simple paint brush. Having prepared clamps and boards in advance to distribute the load over the entire plane, lay them on three boards bottom sheet, and after applying the adhesive, cover it with the top plywood shield.

Having installed the pressure boards on top, tighten the structure with clamps, constantly controlling the flatness with the help of the rule. The place in the center of the tabletop cannot be pressed with a clamp, so it is left unloaded.

When gluing a shield from several sheets of plywood, you can do without clamps if you put the structure on a flat surface and press it evenly over the entire plane with some kind of load. After the glue dries, the clamps or the load are removed and proceed to the next step in the manufacture of the workbench with their own hands.

So that the tabletop has a strict geometric shape, when cutting it parquet you have to be very careful. A rule can be used as a guide rail for a saw. When cutting the tabletop to dimensions of 1500x600 mm, maintain 90 ° angles using a carpenter's square or using the factory corners left when cutting plywood as a template. Dissolve the remaining scraps of the plywood shield into strips 150 mm wide. You will need them to reinforce the tabletop around the perimeter, so glue them around the entire edge of the tabletop in two layers. In this case, the upper strips should overlap the joints of the lower pieces of plywood.

For the manufacture of underframe use a bar with a section of 40x60 mm. At the same time, the tsargs and prolegs are made of solid lumber, and the supports are glued from two segments and one whole beam. The height of the workbench is chosen taking into account your height, since when using it there should be no inconvenience and discomfort. In our case, the height of the workbench from the floor to the top surface of the tabletop is 900 mm.

Next, glue the legs and assemble two frames. In this case, it is important to observe the perpendicularity of the connections, since when deviating from right angle the geometry of the structure will be broken. It will be easier to achieve this condition if, even at the trimming stage, the angles of all parts are strictly at 90 °. In our workbench, the frame width is 900 mm and the height of the support legs is 830 mm. The gap from the floor to the bottom prong should be 150 mm.

After the glue has dried, the frames are mounted on the countertop and fastened with clamps. Then the legs are set strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to the bottom surface of the plywood shield and another set of prolegs and tsargs are cut out. For fixing the structure to the tabletop, self-tapping screws 8x120 mm are used.

You can increase the stability of the workbench if the prolegs and drawers are additionally fastened with the same self-tapping screws. By choosing a recess for the head of the hardware with a pen drill, they ensure the aesthetics of the joints.

The workbench is almost ready. If desired, a box for storing tools can be made in its underframe.

Do-it-yourself metal workbench for the garage

The workbench made of steel has the necessary strength and reliability, which are required when working with metal products. Such a desktop can add functionality to any garage or workshop.

Materials and tools

To start making a workbench in the garage with your own hands, you should acquire the following locksmith tools:

• angle grinder with cutting and grinding discs;
• welding machine;
• building level;
• electric jigsaw;
• drill with a set of drills;
• screwdriver;
• measuring tool.

Do-it-yourself metal workbench drawings

Some of the materials that are needed for the workbench can be found in the garage, and the missing parts can be purchased at construction market. You will need:

• steel corners 50x50x4 and 40x40x2;
• profile pipe 60x40x2;
• steel strip 40x4 mm;
• steel sheets 2200x750x2 mm;
• boards 50 mm thick;
• 15mm plywood and drawer rails;
• metal screws and bolts.

Also, prepare the paint and rust converter to make the product look aesthetically pleasing and the metal to be protected from moisture.

Step-by-step instructions for making a metal workbench

cutting material. Cut into the frame profile pipe. The steel corner is used to strengthen the structure and edging the tabletop. The metal strip is needed as guides for the side panels and for the manufacture of drawer brackets.

Frame welding. From pipes 2200 and 750 mm long, connected in pairs, a rectangular tabletop frame is mounted. At the same time, it is taken into account that on top of the frame it will be necessary to weld the corners into which the boards of the working surface are laid. To strengthen the frame, segments are welded every 400 mm steel pipes as stiffeners.

How to make a workbench with your own hands from metal. A photo

Support legs 900 mm long are mounted along the edges of the table by welding, which are reinforced at the bottom with jumpers from a corner or a profile pipe.

On both sides, the frames of the drawers of the workbench are welded to the legs.

Corners for edging are installed on the frame of the tabletop, after which they are fixed with a welding joint.

From a corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 m, a crate of a power vertical panel for a tool is equipped.

The finished frame is strengthened steel bar brackets, which are welded to its sidewalls. For strengthening, 24 elements are required. Additionally, it is required to drill holes in each strip for mounting the side and rear plywood walls.

Plywood is cut into pieces for the manufacture of boxes, after which they are assembled using self-tapping screws. The number of boxes and their location depends on the specific needs and personal preferences of the owner.

After assembling the drawers, they are welded to the sidewalls of the frame metal strips with holes for fastening the sled.

All welds and sharp corners they pass with a grinder with a peeling wheel installed, and the rusty sections of rolled metal are cleaned with a metal brush-nozzle.

The metal frame is processed anti-corrosion composition and painted with weatherproof paint.

The boards are cut along the length of the countertop and placed in a frame from a corner. To prevent rotting and damage to wood by insects, the boards are treated antiseptic composition.

The lumber is placed in a prepared bed, leaving gaps of 2-3 mm between the wood and the metal to allow the wood to expand when it swells. After that, the boards are screwed with self-tapping screws.

Upper steel sheet treated on both sides with a rust converter, and after drying, they are attached to wooden tabletop self-tapping screws.

They paint the drawers of the table and install them on the rails, and also attach the side and back plywood sheathing.

After the workbench is made, install a vice and more necessary equipment, attach hooks to accommodate the tool.

What is a workbench

The workbench is a table designed for work related to the manufacture and installation of products made of wood, metal and other materials. Often, workbenches are additionally equipped with equipment for fastening workpieces, drawers and shelves for storing tools and accessories. Depending on the intended purpose, carpentry and locksmith workbenches for working with wood and metal are distinguished, respectively. Work tables for workshops and garages can be single or multiple. Workbenches designed for one workplace have a width of up to 0.8 m and a length of up to 1.5 m. The dimensions of multi-seat locksmith tables increase according to the number of people working behind them. The distance of the working surface from the floor is usually 0.8 - 0.9 m, however, there are also designs with adjustable height. Workbenches are most often made of metal or wood, and their countertops are covered with sheets of plywood, hardboard, galvanized sheet, boards and other materials.

Most of the home craftsmen, who are the bulk of the subscribers and visitors to our site, have already solved the problem of organizing their workplace to one degree or another by setting up comfortable workbenches in their workshops and on the balcony.

But there are also those who look closely at home needlework, try this universal profession, which includes many specialties, which becomes a very useful hobby for the family.

First of all, this article is for them, but perhaps it will also be useful to those who have already found themselves in the role of homemade and, having decided on the main types of work, can competently do the arrangement of a home workbench for the workshop with their own hands.

Workshop Workbench Types

A workbench is a table for carrying out various specialized work on the processing of different materials. Accordingly, depending on what material you have to work with and what operations to carry out, workbenches differ from each other in size, configuration and material of manufacture. According to the type of materials processed, workbenches are divided into:

• carpentry;
• plumbing;
• combined.

Based design features, the following types are added to them:

• universal;
• folding.

Folding universal workbenches are produced by different companies with a different list of functions, and distinctive feature, first of all, is their mobility. Therefore, if you experience home master convert to banknotes outside your apartment or courtyard of your house, you can either pick up a universal factory-made folding workbench, or, after analyzing a number of design features of a particular model, make it yourself.

But for a home workshop, more massive workbenches are suitable, and here three options are possible:

• carpenter's workbench with the ability to perform a number of plumbing operations;
• locksmith workbench with the ability to perform a number of carpentry operations;
• combined workbench.

We immediately note that the latter option is not best solution, since it does not allow to fully perform both carpentry and metalwork types of work, but is only relatively adapted for their production, therefore the first 2 options, in our opinion, are preferable. It is these options that we will consider in examples for self-production.

Making a simple DIY garage workbench

The simplest workbench for a home workshop will be a fairly powerful table with a small set of additional functions: drawers, shelves, etc. for storing tools and remanent.

Well, if there is a possibility of its slight transformation to perform metal or woodwork, but more on that below.

To create such a workbench, we will take wooden bars 40x80 and cut out 4 legs: 2 pcs. length 700 mm, 2 pcs. 750 mm long and 2 lower jumpers 500 mm long. For 2 upper jumpers of the same length, we used a 40x100 bar available on the farm.

It will also go for the top rail of the base of our workbench at the front, with a length of 1400 mm on the bottom and 1600 mm on the top. And at the back we use a 40x150x1600 edged board, but we will need all the long blanks later.

If you have a tool for making spiked joints, use it, as we did.

If not, then make them manually or you can join the parts end-to-end using overhead metal fasteners.

Assemble the side racks as shown in the photo below.

After that, you can begin to assemble the entire bed.

The central jumper inside the bed, made of the same 40x80 bar, fixed on small wooden brackets 40x40x180, in addition to strengthening the structure, acts as a stop for two bedside tables with drawers from old desks that we decided to use in our workbench.

For the working surface of the workbench, we also used our existing laminated surface made of fiberboard. We screwed a board on metal plates to the leading edge, which will protect its edge from peeling during operation. It will also serve as the basis for fastening a small metalwork vice with a clamp.

We fixed the working surface to the frame on metal corners and got a fairly powerful general-purpose workbench for our home workshop.

Making a carpentry workbench with modifications for performing locksmith work

If you mainly work with wood, then it would be logical to make a carpentry workbench and do some design modifications for locksmith operations.

The traditional carpentry workbench for the workshop has a design that has been worked out for centuries, which has practically not undergone significant changes up to the present day. It is based on a massive bed on spiked joints, using wedges for tightening in case of drying out, a powerful (often type-setting) tabletop with a recessed tray for collecting chips and tools, and two vise-clamps for fixing workpieces.

The dimensions of such a workbench are selected depending on the maximum length of the workpieces that will be processed on it. If you are going to make your own wooden doors, then the length of the workbench must be at least 2.5 m, and the width must be at least 0.8 m, otherwise your work on it will turn into hard labor. The workbench of my grandfather - the best carpenter in the area for at least 50 km in all directions - was 3000x1000 and he said that he lacked 20 centimeters in width to make large frames for verandas.

The dimensions of the school carpentry workbench are 1200 x 500 x 750. If the dimensions in the plan suit you, and you are ready to spend about 13 thousand rubles on it, then the height can be adjusted by screwing bars of the appropriate size to the legs. But you can also consider alternative options.

As a matter of fact, these are variations on the theme of the same carpentry workbench for the workshop with different material for countertops, the presence or absence of drawers, shelves and various vise mechanisms. Now in order:

1. We make the bed from dry pine lumber 40-50 x 80-100 mm, calculating the height for your height. If your workbench is installed in a room where there will be no sudden changes in humidity, then its elements can be connected in any convenient way, albeit end-to-end using fixing metal plates and corners.

2. The tabletop can be made from ready-made glued wooden shields, sold in most building supermarkets, or glued from planed bars with a thickness of at least 50 mm yourself using PVA glue, having built a simple clamping device. It is important to remember that the top side of the future workbench should be as flat as possible. You can also use thick-layer plywood for the countertop, but it is still advisable to paste over its ends wooden slats oak, beech or ash.

3. To fasten the clamping mechanisms, the bottom of the table top of the workbench is built up with bars of the appropriate sizes. The most popular clamps are:

- carpenter's lead screw with two Czech-made guides Tr 24 * 5, 390/205 at a price of approx. 3 thousand rubles.

Spanish carpenter's vice Piher, 150 mm, approx. 2 thousand rubles;

You can also make some kind of their own by using a pin with a diameter of 14 - 16 mm, which, of course, will not transmit such efforts as a vise, but it will make your clamp extremely economical and maintainable, due to its cheapness;

Or make an even simpler clamping device from the same studs, but due to the lack of guides, put 2 such clamps on one vice.

4. Make holes for the stop pegs in two directions opposite the vise lead screw. It is also useful to make them parallel to each other over the entire surface of the countertop for confident fastening of overall products.

5. Fasten the workbench tabletop to the base on powerful metal corners and, if you do not plan to move it, use them to fasten it to the floor.

And you have successfully completed the first task of the workbench option described in this section of the article.

Now, several options for fixtures for performing plumbing work on such a workbench.

1. The simplest of these is to make an overlay of steel 3 - 5 mm thick with a steel angle frame, kept separate from the workbench or attached to it on hinges and lowered to the table top if necessary.
2. The main attribute of a locksmith's workbench is a bench vise. In this case, we recommend using a vise with fasteners that do not require passing through the workbench top.

Of course, you can fit the holes for the stops under the fasteners of the vice, but with a thick overlay, you can do without it. Also interesting is the option of attaching a bench vise directly to the tabletop of a carpentry workbench using a transition bar-stand and a powerful clamp.

And at the same time, the overlay should not be done on the entire area of ​​​​the workbench. There are many options, the choice is yours.

Refinement of a locksmith's workbench for carpentry work

Often, especially if the farm has a car and a garage, the main workbench is a locksmith.

We will not consider the process of its manufacture in this article, but about simple ways we will tell you about its adaptation for carpentry, especially since it is not at all difficult. To fully use your locksmith's workbench as a carpenter's bench, you will need to dismantle the locksmith's vise and make some simple fixtures.

Let's consider them in more detail.

1. From the first figure below, when finalizing the locksmith's workbench, we will be interested primarily in the side stop (1), which is not difficult to make removable. And together with the holes for the pins (14) along the front end of the workbench (and this can be a one-piece removable structure) and a suitable wedge, we get a simple and reliable device for attaching the board to the workbench. You can simply make a wooden plate fixed with recessed clamps, with all the set of workpiece fasteners shown, and understand that the level of the working surface will rise by its thickness, which can be compensated for by a ladder at the workbench of the appropriate height.

There is nothing to say about the back stop, it simply performs a supporting function for long workpieces.

2. You can make an overlay planer board with a universal stop, shown in the second picture. By increasing the height of the stop (or changing it depending on the height of the processed bar) and screwing the beam on the underside to stop on the right edge of the workbench, we get the simplest device that turns the locksmith workbench into a carpentry workbench.

3. A slightly more complex overlay with a fairly powerful option for fixing the workpiece also allows us to solve this problem. The only thing we would recommend in this case is to also screw the stop on the right side and choose a thickness of at least 50-70 mm for a more reliable fastening of the front pegs and sufficient depth of the lock and clamp.

The way to install the last two planing devices on the workbench is shown in the diagram:

Dear readers, if you still have questions, ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)

To work with wood or metal special adaptation - Workbench, on which the workpiece can be placed.

Every man dreams of having this in his home workshop. necessary device, but not everyone has the opportunity to purchase it at a retail outlet.

That is why today especially relevant question how to make a locksmith workbench do it yourself.

Making a workbench

Workbench by design recalls desk with drawers, so if an unnecessary table is stored for many years, then it can be taken as a basis.

Workbench represents from myself:

• Smooth and hard surface with markings for work;
• Tool boxes;
• Special fixtures and tools (vice, drill, grinder).

Advice! There are two types of workbenches: for woodworking and for working with metal products. Therefore, when choosing a material for a workbench, you should think for what purposes it will most often be used. From the further purpose of the workbench, it follows, and select the material - wood or metal.

If the change house is stored pruning corners, pipes, solid sheets of stainless steel or metal, then with the help of bolts and other connectors you can create a convenient and functional vise table. If, in addition to all this, the owner has a household welding machine, then the problem is practically solved. But if metal structures not available in stock, then you can assemble the base of the workbench from wood.

Drawings and parameters

Approximately" making a workbench is quite difficult, so you have to familiarize yourself with drawings designs. As a rule, neighbors in the country or acquaintances will definitely have recommendations such as DIY instructions, in which you can find the necessary drawings.

If this is not possible, then the Internet will provide various options designs and drawings of the desired product. Here you can also read algorithm steps to create a workbench at home.

Advice! Not every information on the Internet can be trusted, as quite often there are articles written by amateurs. In an effort to make their text unique, they omit some features and specific data, resulting in not a measured design, but a ridiculous product. Therefore, the information should be "filtered".

Options workbench should not exceed the free space in the garage, shed or home workshop. Should provide possibility placing long and non-standard workpieces on it, the possibility of trimming them and performing other mechanical operations.

Advice! When designing a table, one should provide for the possibility of free space for work, since a workbench is not a decoration for a workshop, but a necessary fixture.

Examining the drawings in detail workers structures, you can start making a workbench with your own hands.

About how to do it yourself garden shredder can be found out.

Do-it-yourself locksmith workbench

Action algorithm

1. Creation of the design of the workbench;
2. Creation and surface treatment;
3. Installation of a vice and other equipment;
4. Power supply.

When the blanks are prepared and processed, proceed to assembly table. Having pulled and fixed the base of the workbench design, you can begin to strengthen and process the working surface.

Important! The working surface of the workbench should not have roughness and irregularities. This is a smooth and durable plane, on which measurements and various mechanical operations will be carried out in the future, therefore processing with a grinder or sandpaper is recommended.

The surface thickness must be 25-30 mm that will allow you to perform a variety of operations. If used as a base old table, then on its surface is fixed new a tabletop with a slight overlap and without cracks. lap necessary for the installation of a workbench and fasteners for power tools.

Installing a vise

Having prepared, processed and assembled the structure, we proceed to last stage– installation of a vice and other devices.

One of important questions will be the lighting of the workplace, so on the working surface you should allocate space for a table lamp.

Make a vise on one's own It is quite difficult, but possible, but it is better to purchase a ready-made version.

• screw large sizes;
• two pipe cuttings different diameters;
• Flanges with nuts (M16 and M18);
• electric welding.

Using electric welding, a flange with a nut is attached to one end of the pipe M1 6, on a smaller pipe, a flange with a nut M18.

Please note that the threaded rod (M16) must calmly rotate. All nuts that are installed on pipes are fixed by welding for strength.

Threaded the stud is installed in the cavity of the smaller pipe, while the fixed nut is inside and abuts against the flange. Between the flange and nuts should be installed intermediate washers that increase sliding.

The end of the threaded stud is screwed into the nut of the larger pipe - thus, the main working mechanism of the home vise is created. To it should be added pressure plates "lips" and "paws" and a home vice can be fasten to the workbench.

Advice! The working mechanism must be free of distortions, the nodes must slide easily, and all nuts must be firmly fixed by welding.

Having installed a vise and other devices on the workbench, you can begin effective and fruitful work in the household.

With a detailed algorithm of work and step by step instructions for the manufacture of a locksmith's workbench can be found in this video: