Joiner's workshop do it yourself - drawings, the order of assembly, materials used. Making workbench do it yourself how to make a simple carboard workbench do it yourself

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In any private house, workshop or garage, the joiner's workshop is very necessary subject. With it, it is convenient to make or repair any things, also it combines the table features and the tool shelves at the same time. It can be equipped with plumbing visits, and install the machine for sharpening a different tool on it. If you buy a metal workbench in the store, then it will cost a considerable amount of money, but it is possible to make a workbench made of wood with your own hands.

Required tools and materials

So, the following tools will need for independent manufacture of the workbench in the garage:

• Hacksaw or electric jigsaw;
• Roulette;
• Corolnic;
• Building level;
• Spanners;
• Drill;
• Sculpture.

Materials:

• bars for supports;
• 2 sheets of plywood or OSB (one of the sheets is cut under the regiment of the required size);
• boards for the frame;
• self-tapping screw;
• bolts;
• washers;
• nut.

Before work, you need to make a drawing of the workbench with dimensions for the convenience of assembly.

Step-by-step instructions for making workbench

For the manufacture of the upper frame, you must freeze the boards based on the necessary size of the workbench (see photo).

With the help of self-tapping screws 2 long and 2 short boards, so that the rectangular frame is. With the help of roulette, note the distance to the middle of the frame, and perpendicular to the remaining short board between two long boards, attaching it with self-draws from both ends.

For the manufacture of the standby legs, it will be necessary to unlock 6 equal bars. From the inside of the resulting base in each corner of the frame, fasten on one leg using bolts, washers and nuts (see the workbench scheme).

For the rigidity of the structure, it is necessary to put additional boards, which will also serve as the base for the lower shelf. To do this, free 4 boards.

A tape measure must measure an equal distance from each feet of 30 cm, at the resulting level, fasten the board to the back of the structure to 3 legs, and from the front part, fasten the board between the extreme and medium leg, in the place where the future shelf is planned.

The remaining two boards must be fixed to the legs, at the same level as shelves boards.

From one or more sheets of plywood or OSB with the help of a hacksaw or electric jigsaw drinking the necessary segments. Fix them to the top of the workbench flush with the help of screws. Additionally, you can fix the leaf of the organity, because It can be easily changed to a new one if the old one will be very worn. Under the same scheme is the bottom shelf. The roulette is measured the distance between the extreme and medium legs of the workbench, the material sheet is muffled on this size and is installed on the resulting base.

When attaching legs or crossing, it is necessary to use the coal to get an equal distance between the parts of the structure. With the help of a level, at the place of installation, you need to check out exactly whether the made workbench do it yourself. In the case of a slope, it must be aligned by the stand under the legs of the workbench of wooden chips.

To assemble the joiner's workbench with your own hands.

A good workbench should be in the farm of everyone who works with a tree performs carpentry work.

Before we analyze the drawings and start the build of the workbench, get acquainted with his device and manufacturing nuances.

The workbench consists of a vertical board and base (exposure).

The board has vice - one or two, in which the master clamps the details of the screws.

You can make an emphasis directly on the workboard of the workbench using wedges, which are inserted into the holes in the board itself, thereby you can adjust the length of the stop according to the length of the workpiece.

The vertical board is performed from dry wood or glued plywood with a thickness of up to 8 cm. The exposure is performed from the bars with a thickness of 6 cm.

The exposure is kept on 2 racks, which are broken with bars with screws / wedges.

It is necessary in order for the workbench during planing, discharge does not "walked" from side to side.

Workbench device detail:

• Working table - from wood massif / glued plywood with a thickness of 6 to 8 cm;
• Tips in front of the countertops;
• The workbenches are made from solid wood / plywood, combined transverse stabilization straps;
• On the supports you can install the shelves, a tool box;
• In the tabletop, the holes for wedges are drilled in order to stop for billets;
• From the side or back of the working boards, you can make a recess for storing the tool.

The full screen of the workbench is shown in the photo below.

1 - cover; 2 - exposure; 3 - tray; 4 - front clamp; 5 - rear clamp; 6 - nests; 7 - stopped wedges (comb)

Dimensions of the workbench

Here we meet the first important nuance, which can not be ignored when making a workbench with your own hands - its height and length.

The minimum allowable height of the workbench is 130 cm, length is not more than 260 cm.

The height of the workbench is adjusted under the growth of human working on it:

• too high will not allow much to persist, which is important when planing;
• low workbench will constantly hurt that it will not affect the health of the back in a couple of months;
• the height will be normal if you are standing smoothly, straightened in the back and can put your hands on the board without bending the elbows.

Nuances of manufacture

The manufacture of the workbench has its own nuances, which guarantees the manufacture of the workbench, which will perform its functions impeccably.

Nuances - mass, so we struggle them in relation to each stage of the future assembly process:

1. Initial stage of work. You need to start with the working boards. Someone will throw it to look for an expensive solid massif of wood, and not ababa, but as on science - oak, beech or ash. Experts will advise to take a ready-made wooden countertop that will cost an order of magnitude less;
2. Work with the future work surface of the workbench. The surface needs to be made smooth, because any wood, hungry for the role of a verstalka board, you need to sand. Varked or not - to solve you;
3. Important point - workbench is a type of table. Your task is essentially to make the table on which it is cut not to the sausage, but a tree. Therefore, collecting the workbench, fasten it thoroughly for four legs and, after connecting them with transverse rails with each other for stability;
4. Retractable boxes are an important element of comfort. Remove the boxes from the bedside table and pay attention to how it is installed: there are a pair of guides in the form of the letter "P" on which the side rails of the drawer slide. Send two rail guides on distance from each other, equal to the width of the drawer and ready;
5. Need a freeing table if you saw. The table is taken out by 20-30 cm beyond the board itself. It represents a small plate, which is attached to the desktop with screws (see photo);
6. The vertical board should be straight. Planing, cut, burning, thread and other manipulations can be carried out strictly on a flat surface and in no way differently;
7. Do not forget about wedges! Wedges are needed to make focus when planing of the workpiece. In the table at a certain step (10-15 cm) you need to drill a row of holes (you can several rows in a row), in which you after will insert rounded wedges. If possible, use the nozzle for the drilling of square holes - the wedges of the square section hold better by the focus due to their shape, rather than rounded, prone to the deviation of the vector of the attached load - the workpiece will also fly out of the stop.

Practical instruction for creating a workbench

So, it came a turn to make your own carpentry workbench. Each assembly stage is accompanied by a description and photo process.

At the end of the practical instructions, see the video summarizing the assembly process in stages. We do not give the drawings of folding varieties, as it is an order of magnitude harder in the manufacture.

We will analyze the assembly of step by step.

Step 1 - do measurements

Back is very tense or not? If all you are satisfied, measure the distance from the palm to the floor - it will be the overall height of the workbench.

Step 2 - We make legs

Take the ready-made bars of the desired height, or buy the Phaneur and saw the sheets on the strips of the desired width.

Now they need to be glued: we take wood glue or powerful epoxy, we apply several layers on top of each other, alone gluing them together.

It may take 10 such plywood bands for each of the legs. It is better to glue 10 sheets of plywood at once and after drying to cut into 4 parts.

Step 3 - Making a workbench frame

We take a ready-made board, 4 cm thick - 4 pieces, which will be the sides of the frame-box and collect the box, planting the sides on the self-tapping screw.

In another case, you can also take a few sheets of plywood, glue them and after uniformly cutting.

But then to correctly connect them between themselves, it is better to use the mill and lamella.

Saving the necessary holes, we collect a wooden box: put on the glue of PVA with the help of a whisker board, clamp the clamps. After drying, fasten to the feet of the leg with self-draws.

Step 3 - Collect the shelf under the tool

From glued plywood (5-6 sheets) cut the shelf that is put in the grooves.

The shelf must be attached to confirm: use a special drill (see photo), which simultaneously removes the chamfer and drill.

The confirmation must be drowning, since this part of the shelf will be used as a guide for the box. Now the base of the table is ready.

Step 4 - Made a tabletop box

We take a sheet for the bottom and again 4 plywood strips of several glued layers. On the inner sides of the two side walls, we will make the grooves - for the bottom of the box.

And outside these walls make the grooves with milling, so that the box can ride the shelves freely. The cutters are selected: smaller - as the bottom thickness, large - as the thickness of the side strips + 1-2 mm.

To fix the side walls, we put the sewages: drills in the ends of the walls of the opening for the waders, placing the pencil point for drilling on the conjugate wall and drill on a small depth.

After planting the seats in both holes on PVA glue. For the final assembly of the box, it is worth using secret screws that a hat will not prevent the opening-closing of the box.

Step 5 - Production of the Table Top

Again cut the strips glued into several layers of plywood under the base of the countertop. We connect strips to the box with the help of a wanking and pva.

If you use round wrenches, then you need to take at least 4 pieces for each connection.

While the box of the tabletop will dry, collect her working board: we take wide sheets of plywood and glue them into several layers.

You can also pick up a tabletop from the old written table and after easy to fit into size. Glue table top on a box, enhanced by the wanks.

Step 6 - put a vice

As soon as the glue grabbed and the tabletop is ready, drills holes in it under the wedges to stop and for fastening the vice.

Usually, the visks are put on 3 holes: two - for fastening with bolts, one - for a screw according to the pressure during the rotation of the handle.

You can take a vice from the old workbench or you can get ready and after easy to fit under the worktop, drill the holes of the desired step.

Topic vice is a metal screw with guides and clamp of wood.

You can take several layers of glued plywood with a thickness of about 5-7 cm and simply drill holes in it and put on the screw - it will be stopped, after putting snap-on brackets so that the vice do not fall out and ready.

In the stop, you can drill holes in size to the size of a large diameter, after planting it with a screw to a square of plywood, pre-dried in a square deepening.

Make such 4 stops and place across the worktop to fix the workpiece with the focus in the vice.

Our workbench is ready!

(All of the above steps are shown separately in the assembly process)

Rules of care and operation

There are a number of rules that need to be strictly observed that the workbench can serve as long as possible:

• Clean the surface from dust, glue after each use;
• Wipe once a month the surface of the hot olifa;
• Do not pour the vestic water, do not put any adhesive on it, including the parts glued.
• The workbench is not used in any way;
• Place a board or paneur under the workpiece if you want to use a cutting tool.
• Do not tighten the thish screws strongly;
• When the screws are tightened, it is impossible to beat in visets;
• The workbench is attached to the place of its permanent location with the help of scuffers on screws or nails;
• The vertical board should not choke. Otherwise, strengthen all the places of its compound;
• Wipe the wooden screws with dry soap, paraffin or graphite, and metal - only with machine oil.

This joinery is a reliable frame, a solid working surface and a lot of compartments for convenient storage of tools and devices. The main design you will make it yourself in two days, and the various useful additions will add gradually.

Tools for work

To handle array of wood and sheet materials, a tool will be required:

1. Hacksaw.
2. Electrolake.
3. Circular saw.
4. Grinder machine.
5. Drill and drill.
6. Clamps.
7. Screwdriver.
8. Pencil.
9. Corolnic
10. Roulette.
11. Brush.

Carcass joinery workbench

Take smooth pine boards without large bitch cross section 50x150 mm. The raw lumber dries: the lower the humidity of the boards, the less likely the design of the design. The sawnure vestic in question is designed for comfortable work of the wizard in 170-180 cm. To change the height of the design, make the legs above or lower.

Table 1 - Frame Parts List

All elements of the base of the joinery workbench paired, so placing a 150 mm wide on the board at once the same details of the same length.

Wheel all the wooden blanks in length with the exception of spacers: short to cut into more times already planed, and the longs should be sprinkled later "at the place."

Measure the width of the board, take away the thickness of the disk of your circular saw and divide the result in half. Add the size on a measuring scale and make sure that the pilot disk is perpendicular. Displays the boards in the middle.

Ostrict the details and process their sandpaper medium grain.

Fall the lower spacers and pass the ends. Cleaning the surface from dust, apply glue to a small pier and at the end of the leg.

Squeeze the parts of the clamp, wipe out the squeezed glue and drill the holes with the drill with the zenkovka.

Screw the blanks with screws 6.0x70. Prepare the remaining feet of a carcass of a joinery.

Remove the chamfer on the lower ends to reduce the likelihood of wood split in the workbench.

Prepare for gluing nodes connecting legs with longitudinal pripers. While the details of the screws, setting a straight corner.

Screw all four legs into place.

Place half the frames and longitudinal kings on the floor semi, measure the length of the upper spacer.

Failure parts and secure on glue and screws.

Collect the top frame of the joiner's workbench on the smooth surface. Stretch the bars with joiner glue and 6.0x80 mm screws, drill guide holes under them.

Collect the bottom strapping of the workbench, I use for the convenience of clamp and auxiliary planks.

Put the top frame in place and align the entire design. Connect the parts of the frame of the frame with screws.

Cut from a sheet material with a thickness of 16 mm lower shelf and secure it on the bars

Workstand worktop for joinery

Use MDF sheets, chipboard or plywood with a thickness of 16-20 mm for the workbench. Spread the plates into two layers and get a tabletop with a thickness of 32-40 mm.

Drawing and device of the workbench cover: 1 - edge planks (birch, maple); 2 - work surface (solid fiberboard); 3 - carrier plate (chipboard, plywood or MDF).

For countertops, you can take sheets of chipboard remaining from unnecessary furniture. For example, the walls of the wardrobe are suitable. Take them as a basis and add small pieces so that the joinery cover is obtained with dimensions of 670x1940 mm.

Place the narrow plates closer to the rear wall and to the center of the workbench. Large sheets place in the top layer of the table top. Spread outline blanks.

Create sheets by self-drawing, blowing them into the splashed holes. Cut the edges with a manual circular saw at a distance of 20 mm from the edge.

Align the tabletop regarding the frame and secure screws.

Ostive rails for edge linings. Screws at 45 ° and cut the strips in length. Put a piece of Fiberboard on the workbench cover, add a smooth panel from above and secure all this by clamps.

It's easier to mount the lining. Align the ends along the edges of the table top and press the rail to the panel - the upper plane will be flush with the workbench lid. Holding the bar with one hand, drill the guide holes and fasten the parts of the screws.

Rearrange the device to the other side and install the rest of the lining. Process the slats of the grinding.

Drill a hole in the corner of the plate, which allows you to easily push out the DVP from the recess when it is replaced.

Clean the surfaces from dust and cover the wooden frames of the frame of the mourn. Place the DVP in the lid's deepening. If you use pieces of material, then secure them using bilateral tape. Install on the workbench joiner's vice.

Tool storage boxes in a joinery

Filling the space under the cover of the joinery, use the modular principle. Separate blocks are easier and more convenient to change it later when it takes place for a new tool. There will be a certain overflow of the material, it will increase the mass of the workbench and its stability is enough to work with the power tool.

Scheme Storage Places: 1 - Full Extension Box; 2 - a spacious box of plywood; 3 - container from chipboard; 4 - wide drawer; 5 - compartment for a portable toolbox; 6 - place for cases and blanks.

Use drawers from old furniture

Pick up the boxes suitable for dimensions from an unnecessary writing desk or chest.

Sign the wooden elements and disconnect them gently. Clean the spikes and eye glue.

Cut the strips in width, removing erased corners and cracking grooves. If the native bottom of the hip box, prepare a thicker faeer or fiberboard. Make new grooves on circular saw.

Collect the drawer "on dry", if necessary, pon the part. Clean the surface and glue the design. Use mounting corners to accurately assemble direct corners.

When the glue is dry, polish the corners and the sides of the box, consolidating it for the convenience of work.

Prepare guide strips and calculate the dimensions of the module.

Calculation of a block for three drawers

Failure lower, top and side panels. Screw the rail guides with screws.

Collect the panel in the module and try the stroke of the boxes. Place the block inside the workbench, putting the backups under it.

Remove the guide holes, sprinkle and tighten the screws. Crepe chipboard to the top bars and to the legs of the workbench.

Install the front overlays on the boxes. Having placed the location of the case, grab it with one screw. Insert the box in place and adjust the position of the panel. Gently remove the box and wrap the rest of the screws.

Secure the remaining lining - the module with wide drawers is ready.

Carpentry table compartment for portable box

The average module is manufactured in the entire height of an expanding to enhance the stiffness of the joinery. For the enclosure, take a 16 mm thick chipboard and cut two sidewalls, bottom and lid.

Middle Module Corps: 1 - framework scheme; 2 - side wall; 3 - bottom and top panels.

Attach the heading strips to the sidewalls, collect the framework on the screws and install the right-door block.

Prepare parts for drawer.

Drawings of the box elements: 1 - long wall; 2 - short wall; 3 - bottom; 4 - front pad; 5 - Rake.

Circular saw Select grooves in the walls, which can be made by a regular disc. Set the depth of 6 mm, and the width is 8 mm. Run all four details. Slide the longitudinal fiction of a saw by 2 mm and perform a trial propyl. Check the groove and adjust the stop, if necessary. Run the remaining blanks.

Collect the module and install the rail from the bottom, protecting the chipboard edges from the chipping and providing more "smooth" stroke.

Secure the front panel with screws and put the box in place.

How to make modules with convenient drawers

The device of the enclosures of these modules is identical to previous designs. The retractable container is placed on roller guides, taking into account the mounting gap, so its width will be less internal size of the body by 26 mm (for common 6 mm thick guides).

Device of the module and details of the box: 1 - assembly scheme; 2 - rear and front walls; 3 - front panel; 4 - bottom; 5 - side walls.

Before assembling the case, secure on the sidewalls restrictive wooden rails and metal guides.

Mounting circuit guide on the walls of the case.

Secure the finished module under the workbench cover.

To install the guides on the box, click the locksters and pull out small rails.

Secure the parts on the walls. The desired distance from the edge to the guide will determine independently based on the specific design and the gap of 10 mm between the wall of the box and the top panel of the frame.

Pull up the middle rails.

Insert both guides at the same time, holding the medium rails with your fingers. If the box "went" tight, remove it and try again.

Put the front overlay in place.

How to make a drawer of a joinery of plywood

Fall the blanks of the box of the box of 10-millimeter plywood, and for the bottom, take a sheet with a thickness of 5 mm.

Scheme of cutting parts for two plywood boxes: 1 - front panel; 2 - rear liner; 3 - side wall; 4 - front liner.

Treat the workpiece with a grinding machine.

Make the grooves under the plywood bottom in the side walls, the back and front liner. Clean the burrs with emery paper.

Spread and twist the details of the front and rear walls with screws.

Apply glue to the joints and in the groove.

Collect the design, using corners and clamps.

While the details of the screws, driving the guides.

Collect your own hands the second plywood box.

Install on the back wall of the joinery workbench panel intended for increasing the stiffness of the structure and for placing a manual tool.

Cover the boxes and cut-off ends of wood-chipboard.

Move the power to the manufacturer with your own hands and make the tools container filling.

About carpentry vestics

Device and purpose of workbench

The joiner's workbench is a desktop for manual and machining wooden products. The design and ergonomics of the classic joinery of the workbench make it possible to fix items in various spatial positions and with the maximum convenience to perform the main carpentry operations: to make wooden parts, produce assembling structures, cover them with finishing compositions. The traditional joinery table is designed to work with a lumber up to 3-3.5 m long. To process longer blanks, a carpenter's workbench is used.

The table for carpentry works consists of a vertical board (cover) and an expanded (carrier frame). The traditional workbench is equipped with front (front) and rear (end) vice with which the billets are fixed in the necessary spatial positions.

In the lid of the table and wooden sponges of vice there are holes. They are designed to install clamps and stops of various sections and heights.

Preparations of the stops in the desired configuration, between them there are parts and pressed the screw mechanism of the vice. Thus, the billet is securely fixed in a horizontal position. Based on the thickness of the wooden part, it is used to fit the corresponding height, which will not be over the edge of the workpiece and interfere with processing.

How to choose the optimal height of the workbench?

The height of the joinery vestipes varies within 85-95 cm. The optimal table height is selected focusing on the growth of the wizard. If, standing at the workbench, the palms are free to rest in his cover, then the Rostovka is chosen correctly. Behind such a workbench will be convenient to perform all the basic operations, without frequent bends and stretching, which lead to rapid fatigue.

What materials are better to produce the design?

The joiner's workbench should have sufficient strength and rigidity, because during operation it is subjected to large loads as static, generated under the weight of massive blanks and dynamic, drilling, drilling, and pr. Such strength characteristics are provided not only by the features of fasteners, But the type of materials used.

For the manufacture of the base, the wood of coniferous rocks is traditionally used. The cover of the table is made of durable wood: oak, beech, ash, maple, etc. Lumber used to create a vertical board must be dry (humidity of about 12%) without bitch and other vices.

About making a brandy cover

Experience shows that in the manufacture of a joiner's workbench, with their own hands, it is advisable to purchase an already ready glued shield, which will become a blank for the lid. Forces and times spent on cutting, seven edges, gluing the shield and its alignment when creating such a massive part will be incomparable with savings.

When performing works that increase the risk of damage to the cover: drilling, duck, etc., the work surface of the workbench is better to be closed with a thick plywood sheet or DVP cut out on the shape of the lid. Make this simple flooring appropriately at once with the workbench.

Production and assembly Side

The design of the sidewall consists of two legs (B), Tsarg and supports (a). The item is collected on a cross-cutting glued spike.

Figure cuts of the CARG and supports (part a) are cut on a ribbon saw with subsequent grinding edges.

In accordance with the dimensions specified in the scheme, the laying of the nests for the spikes of pride makes, after which they choose their chisel or milling.

On the outer side of the legs, a conical recess under the head of the tie bolt. The recess with a diameter of 35 mm and 11 mm depth is made by the forstner drill. The center is drilled through a hole with a diameter of 14 mm.

Drinking spikes and lylish

Spikes and eyelets are made on a saw or manually, guided by the basic principles for creating thickening connections. In such a responsible design, the first option is preferable because it allows you to minimize errors and inaccuracies, ensuring a flawless fit of the connection. Billets must have prepared smooth surfaces and correspond to the dimensions specified in the drawing.

Halves of parts A glued together, after placing the liner in the sinus, which will prevent offset.

Build the sidewall

Details A and B glue into a ready-made connection. After drying, the shearding excess glues neatly cleaned with the chisel. The collected sidewall is grinding.

In the center of the glued tsargi drill a hole 19x38 mm under the wanking (L) to fix the workbench cover.

Production of pride and exposure shelf

According to the dimensions specified in the drawing, the blanks for the prodrice (part C) are cut in the amount of 4 pieces. At the ends of each detail make spikes, sticking to the sizes indicated in the photo. As in the case of the sidewall, it is better to carry out this operation on a silent.

The connection of the pionerage with the sidewall is made detachable on the bolt screed with a transverse nut. To do this, on the inside of the prodes, the recess for the transverse nuts D25 mm and a depth of 32 mm is obtained. In the known ends, the hole is drilled 14x95 mm. At this stage, it is better to use a drilling conductor, because the holes must be made strictly at an angle of 90 °.

The reference strips (part D and E) are screwed by self-pressing with a retreat of 22 mm from the upper edges of the pride.

According to the "Total Detail" specified in the drawing, the volumes of the exposure shelf (part f) are fixed. At the ends of each plank, the holes are drilled and ripped. The planks are grinding and consistently mounted on the collected frame.

Installation of the brandy cover

On the back of the vertical board, the non-separation holes D19 mm and a depth of 32 mm under the sewage (L) are drilled.

Drill D19 mm on the lid make through holes for the vertical stops. Similar jacks with a depth of 45 mm are drilled on the cover of the lid. All holes are filmed. The stops should be easily included in the nests and not to peel.

Tip! When performing all drilling operations, use a drill with a conductor to ensure neat openings under an ideal direct angle. Make such a guide will not be labor itself, having a brusal trim.

Installation of verstatic vice

Deciding to make a workbench with their own hands, joiner's vice are more advisable to buy in the finished form. In this case, you will receive the most reliable and functional design, and that it is important to get rid of an extra headache when installing them.

Manufacturers of thickens are trying to adhere to standards in the manufacture of their products. Here we will look at the scheme of installation of typical structures. But it is quite possible. You will have to improvise, adapting the installation under the features of non-standard verstatic vice.

Sponges of vice - parts H, I and J (2 pcs.) - cut from solid rocks. After that, drill holes for guide rods, driving screws, nests for vertical stops and holes for fastening screws.

The rear sponges of the front and rear vice are mounted to the workbench lid as shown in the photo.

Wooden lining (part K) cut under the sizes of the vice. Through the kings drill through holes for guide rods and driving screws.

Tip! For accurate layout of the holes, use the guides themselves, pieces of painting scotch and a soft pencil.

Surely, every man in the younger in labor lessons has repeatedly had to make a certain object from the tree, standing for no one hour behind the same device.

So now, becoming an adult, and creating wonderful and practical work from the tree, you thought about the acquisition of your own carpentry workbench. My advice to you is not worth spending money, it is better to spend a little personal time, having received a qualitative "workplace" in return.

So, what is the "carpentry workbench"? This is a steady, good one (often made of wood), the purpose of which lies in the processing of all kinds of products using a manual and mechanized tool.

If you seriously think about the manufacture of the workbench, it is worth noting that there are several types of them:

Wood or metal?

First of all, before proceeding with the creation of your own workbench, you should think about what material it will be manufactured. The wooden base will be appropriate if the estimated working area will not take a lot of space.

An ideal option for countertops will be laminated chipboard or pressed plywood. For a stationary sample, a combination of sharp wooden boards and metal is suitable.

Council: An old unnecessary table is well suited for the base, or a high-quality door made of solid canvas.

It is undesirable to make a metal workbenchAn acceptable compromise will be a wooden lid and a frame with a metal trim.

It is best to use not one and two vice, but as much as possible. With the help of some long boards without much effort, while others are suitable for fixing small parts.

Dimensions and drawings

Before we proceed to the manufacture, you need to think through its design and sizes, purpose. For the manufacture of parts and assembled the table, you will need to make a drawing. On it, with an accuracy of a millimeter, specify all the data. Next, you often have to use the drawing in the process of manufacturing individual elements and when assembling the product.

Council: When drawing drawing, focus on the size of the countertops in 1600x800 and a height of 870 mm.

Instruments

What a set of tools will be needed to master:

Of course, the list may vary depending on which material you decide to choose a table of workbenchAnd what kind of design it will be.

reference: It is extremely important at the very beginning to decide on the height of the workbench. An experiencing master will be done to make a device with an adjustable height, the rest is recommended to focus on the distance from the extreme point bent into the elbow of the hand to the floor.

How to do?

Manufacture

This process occurs in several stages, the first of which is the assembly of the foundation. After the installation of the table top and install all the necessary equipment.

We prepare vertical supports and jumpers, drill through a hole in a horizontally located bar. After screw the nut with the washer to the bolt on the side of the groove. In the middle of the table, we install jumpers (boxes will be between them), rakes are attached to them. The wrist cover on the bolts will be fixed.

The base of the workbench is a wooden frame (it is recommended to use a soft tree for their manufacture: a lip or pine tree), which must meet all the requirements of stiffness and stability. That is why, between the legs of your desktop in a horizontal form, the jumper should be placed, and at the same time install the king. It is necessary to fasten them at a safe distance from the floor (50 cm). Such a reserve of the place can be useful in the future, and you can easily place a small shellf or retractable boxes at the bottom of the workshop.

Then go to step facilities countertops. This can be done with a few boards, but in this case they need to be carefully treated, clearing from garbage and sawdust. Its sizes must exceed the width and the length of the base. This solution is necessary for your convenience. So the working area can be easily cleaned. The countertop is fixed to the boards located on the opposite side of the created workbench. Installation of bars is simply impossible without several grooves (slots, junctions) located at the base.

We created working surface cover with vice. To do this, we build a plywood gasket from the wrong side, mark a pencil or handle, where there will be future holes. Drill them, attach vice with the help of nuts.

When you create stops, adjust them in height, place them at a fairly large distance from the vice. Such caution will ensure guaranteed reliability, and you will be sure that the blanks will remain on the surface without falling on the floor.

We also construct, they can be fixed on the support of the exposure space.

Getting to create guide boxeswho subsequently serve as a repository for all tools and large items. For them we assign the back of the workbench, we do deepening.

You feed up a couple of transverse bars to the base of the countertop, for them it is necessary to leave the grooves. To the jumpers horizontally attach rail, they will serve for the gliding process of boxes.

Countertop attach to base bolts. I spend the chisel to deepen, drill the specified places, after there they will be bolts. It is necessary that their heads do not cause injury, so they are securely hidden in the tabletop.

Assembly

The design will need to attach a certain amount of vice. For them, the openings are harvested in advance, which are subsequently fixed by a small size of the plywood gasket.

Be careful, visits place at one levelTo prevent the destruction of the workbench.

We place the attachment points, after which we can do the tool fixing. For this, hardware will fit perfectly.

Important: Visks in no case are not recommended to be placed close to the corners of your desk, otherwise there is a risk of a tool breakdown.

The support elements are easily made with your own hands. To do this, simply fix the finished stops, or drill small opening of a certain size.

Attention: It is not desirable to use the bolts as stops, they can damage the parts, and begged unreliable. Create rectangles, they will serve as perfect and reliable fasteners. Fasten the bar with the end of the workbench.

Consider the fact that there will be quite heavy and massive things that are subsequently located on the tabletop later, such as:

• wooden clamps;
• turning equipment;
• milling element;
• drill (stationary).

Therefore, it is so important to make sure that fastening reliability and think over all the convenience options so that it is not necessary to regret the location of certain devices.

Finish treatment

The finished product can be put in order with the help of grinders. Thereafter, cover the entire surface of the desktop Olifa as a protective and primer layer under the paint. So you will save yourself from getting a basis, reduce the risk of injury.

Ultimately, the base is screwed to the corner (bolts).

Set this design will be more correct in the zone of natural light, that is, the window. Take care of the additional lighting of the workplaceAlso, do not forget that next door to the workbench should be a socket, in such a situation you will be able to "save" the extension. The most comfortable pastime for the workbenk will be in case the table is not too high, and the light will fall on the left or from above.

Photo

Creation of furniture is an individual process. You may well get something beautiful and comfortable:

Useful video

Step-by-step manufacturing process is described in detail in the following video:

Conclusion

Appearing in the farm, he will become an indispensable assistant and over time, you yourself will be convinced. First, the workbench do it yourself - it is a significant savings. Secondly, you, as a specialist, acquire practical skills. Thirdly, you always "at hand" will be a comfortable table on which you can create interesting and useful objects.

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