How to dry the cellar from dampness with a fan. How to dry the cellar from excess moisture

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Why do you need a basement

• .

This includes:

• Interior decoration premises.
• Equipment installation.

• At

1. coating;
2. pasting;

• basement ventilation

1. thermal insulation;
2. clay or dry earth above.

1. at the top 0.4 meters.

How waterproofing is done

In this case, you can:

• Euro waterproofing.

• What are basement windows for - if you decide, do it
• When storing vegetables in the basement

Usually, during the construction of the basement, all communications are provided in it, which will save space in the living room. How to lay communications in a house without a basement can be seen in the video. The presence of a basement in a private house or a detached one makes the life of the inhabitants of the site more comfortable. => Basement Under House: How to Build Properly - Detailed Guide=> => publish => open => closed => => pod-domom-podval-153 => => => 2019-04-09 20:25:14 => 2019-04-09 16:25:14 => => 0 =>?p=1683 => 0 => post => => 8 => raw => index,follow)) => 1 => -1 => => WP_Post Object ( => 1683 = > 2 => 2015-07-30 16:50:23 => 2015-07-30 12:50:23 => Building a basement in a private house To build a house with or without a basement, each owner decides for himself. how much it is needed, and what its construction will result in in terms of money.Perhaps an ordinary pantry is enough, where you can store everything you need.The main problem that land owners face when building a basement is the depth ground water and its flooding during the period of melting snow and heavy rains. How to properly build a private basement in a house can be found in this article.

Why do you need a basement

The cellar is a room where the floor level is not less than half the height of the walls is lower than the ground level. Otherwise, at a shallower depth, it will be the basement. The following factors play a role in the possibility of building a basement:

• Hydrogeological situation in the area.
• Soil type. With rocky type, price land works will be big enough. In this case, to deepen into the ground to the desired height of the basement, you will need to attract special equipment.
• The level of groundwater placement. If it is higher than the depth of the foundation being laid, then you will have to arrange expensive waterproofing .

The advantages of building a cellar are as follows:

• The owner of the house receives additional usable area, where you can keep any things - from clothes, conservation to food.
• The room can be adapted for a garage, a locksmith's workshop, to carry out engineering communications in it, to equip a sauna or a swimming pool, gym, install pumping station, create a laundry and dryer, build a cellar for storing wine.
• With a small area near the house, for its more rational use, instead of building an additional house, such as a barn, you can get by with a basement.
• The construction of a house with a basement will provide the floor of the first floor with dryness and warmth.
• For all residents, a house with a basement creates additional comfort, they do not have to go out for groceries, for example, when it is snowing or raining outside, to a separate outbuilding: you can simply go down to the basement and bring everything you need from there.

The disadvantages of the device include its very high cost during construction, which is about 25% of the cost of the entire house. This includes:

• Performing land works that are difficult to do without the involvement of special equipment.
• Proper arrangement of waterproofing.
• Interior decoration of the premises.
• Equipment installation.

Features of the construction of basements

There are several types and options of premises where food can be stored. It can be:

• Underground, which has a shallow depth, located under the kitchen or veranda - the easiest option.
• Cellar under the kitchen, porch, outbuilding or detached. The height of the room usually ranges from 1.6 to 1.9 meters.
• Building a basement under the house is the most difficult option. It can be made cold or warm. In addition to the cellar, here you can place a furnace and pantry for storing fuel and inventory, equip a workshop and other premises with your own hands. The optimal height of the basement is from 1.9 to 2.2 meters.

Tip: It should be arranged under the kitchen, hallway, any utility rooms, as long as these are not living rooms.

• A basement or cellar should be arranged only if the level of groundwater placement is not high.
• It is not worth building cellars at or below the level of ground liquids. This requires very complex and expensive waterproofing, which cannot guarantee the premises from flooding with groundwater. In this case, the floor and walls of the basement may be covered with perspiration.
• When building a basement under the house, the foundations of buildings are usually combined. In this case, they are made tape and laid to a depth that depends on the height of the cellar.
• If the soils are non-flowing, the foundation foundation should be located at least half a meter below the floor mark of the room, on heaving soils - by 0.6 meters.
• A feature of the device of a deep foundation, in the presence of a basement, is the device of reinforced waterproofing.
• At the end of the laying of the foundation, the walls of the cellar, which is the foundation itself, are plastered with a mortar of cement and sand in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3, and the outer surface is carefully smeared with hot bitumen.

Tip: The walls of the basement should be plastered and glued with two layers of roofing material on bituminous mastic.

• The floor is installed on the ground on a layer of sand about 50 millimeters thick.
• A layer of gravel is laid on it, slightly moistened and compacted, after which concrete is poured with a thickness of 30 to 50 millimeters.
• If the project provides for a cold cement floor, then a week later a cement-sand screed is made over the concrete in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3. Ceramic tiles can be laid on top.
• In the manufacture of a wooden floor, the screed on concrete preparation is replaced with anti-septic lags in increments of 600 to 800 millimeters, and the floor is laid over them. The boards should be laid tightly, and the gaps between them up to five millimeters contribute to better ventilation.
• Floors can be arranged with adobe, stone.
• Above the cold basement, only a warm ceiling should be arranged, otherwise the rooms on the ground floor will be very cold.
• When constructing an insulated basement, brick cladding is laid out from efficient bricks together with pouring the foundation.
• The width of the sole of their walls should be 100 millimeters greater than that of a cold basement.
• The floor is also warm. Expanded clay or fine slag is taken as a heater. They are laid with a layer of 100 millimeters on concrete preparation on the ground.

Tip: Deep laying of walls requires good protection from groundwater and any precipitation, therefore, on the outside of the foundation, from the very base, it is arranged clay castle, from carefully mixed and compacted clay. In the same case, a blind area is also made.

• Basement walls may be thinner than at home. They are erected with a thickness of 200 to 300 millimeters from monolithic dense concrete with wire or bar reinforcement, regardless of whether it is a round house with a basement or an ordinary rectangular one.
• After the formwork has been removed, the walls are plastered with cement mortar.
• Depending on local conditions, the type of waterproofing is selected, which can be:

1. coating;
2. pasting;
3. with or without clay lock.

• Coating is carried out with hot bitumen in two layers.
• The top of the cellar walls, which also serves as the plinth of the outer structure, is waterproofed in two layers of roofing material.
• The cellar ceiling can be combined or separated from the floor.
• The ventilation of the room is constructed by means of a two-channel pipe, which provides air supply and exhaust. For the winter, the ventilation of the basement must be additionally covered with a padded jacket or a blanket.
• The vaulted structure of the stone cellar can be built from natural flagstone.

Vaulted stone cellar

• A cellar buried in the ground is made with an outer embankment of earth and sown with grass.
• The laying of the vault is carried out according to wooden formwork from two sides at once, its top is locked with a keystone, which looks like a wedge.
• With the help of a clay castle, it is possible to perform waterproofing of walls and foundations, with a thickness of 200 to 250 millimeters.
• Covering the vault from the outside is poured with a thick solution of lime, then stacked:

1. up to 100 mm thick layer of clay lubricant;
2. thermal insulation;
3. clay or dry earth above.

• On low and soils with high humidity, it is possible to build ground cellar made in the form of a hut. Its structure consists of a frame. About half a meter thin logs are dug into the ground, and their upper ends are tied with runs.
• To protect against rapid decay, wood in contact with the ground is smeared with bitumen, antiseptic or burned.
• Rafters and lathing are made of boards, slabs.
• Roofing material is laid on top of the crate in one or two layers.
• Outside, the cellar is sprinkled with earth:

1. at the base, the thickness of the soil is 0.6 meters;
2. at the top 0.4 meters.

• The embankment is covered with sod or sown with grass.

How waterproofing is done

There are several ways to waterproof your basement. In this case, you can:

• Use bitumen-polymer roll membranes.
• Euro waterproofing.
• Ruberoid in two layers, with welding of seams.
• Coating bitumen-polymer materials.

Tip: During installation and operation, the waterproofing layers must not be damaged.

• The use of membranes having a strong reinforced backing, especially for horizontal basement floor insulation, is a more reliable option.
• Resistance to mechanical damage is well resisted by waterproofing polymer-cement compositions.
• Bitumen-polymer mastics perform well.
• The most affordable method of processing vertical surfaces is to coat the walls in two layers with hot bitumen. In this case, the upper edge of the wall should be located half a meter above the groundwater level.

Coating walls with hot bitumen

How to ventilate a basement

When building a cellar, well-arranged ventilation plays an important role for its proper operation. The photo shows the ventilation holes for the system.
ventilation ducts The ventilation device manual offers:

• To carry it out with the help of ventilation ducts arranged in smoke exhaust units that are led outside, beyond the roof. Besides:

1. section exhaust duct placed in brick wall, should be no less than 140 x 140 millimeters;
2. channels for inflow and exhaust are located on opposite sides of the basement: the inflow is closer to the floor, the hood is near the ceiling;
3. channels are placed in the main wall during its laying;
4. walls and partitions between channels should be at least half a brick thick.

• The use of small windows in the basement wall with a cross section of approximately 150 x 150 millimeters. Elements are tightened with a mesh from rodents, and by winter they are covered with clay (see What basement windows are for - if you decide, do it). Insufficient ventilation contributes to the appearance of stale, stale air in the room, the appearance of a feeling of dampness, the formation of mold, and condensation forms on the walls and ceiling. The increase in air humidity can be eliminated using cross-ventilation. To do this, in the fall, all hatches, doors open on long time. To remove excess moisture, quicklime, coarse kitchen salt or charcoal are used - these are elements that absorb moisture well. They are poured into boxes and placed in different corners of the cellar.
• When vegetables are stored in the basement, humidity and temperature control is carried out by a psychrometer, a device that allows you to measure air temperature and at the same time determine relative humidity, which is necessary for high-quality storage of any product. The simplest psychrometer is two alcohol thermometers, which are fixed on the same base. The bottom of one element is placed in a humid environment, while the other element remains dry.

A thermometer immersed in water usually has a lower temperature. The temperature decreases due to the constant evaporation of moisture, heat is expended on it. Humidity in the basement is determined by the intersection of the lines of the wet thermometer and the difference in the readings of the two thermometers. For example, the indication of a dry thermometer is 13 ° C, and a wet one - 7 ° C, while the difference in their readings is 6 ° C. In this case, the humidity in the basement will be 35%.

How to insulate a basement

Scheme of thermal insulation in the basement Thermal insulation of the entire perimeter of the basement increases its resistance to moisture penetration, condensation, protects the walls from freezing. As a heater, it is better to use extruded polystyrene foam.

Tip: To protect the insulation from damage, when backfilling and compacting the soil, you should use asbestos-cement smooth slabs.

Usually, during the construction of the basement, all communications are provided in it, which will save space in the living room. How to lay communications in a house without a basement can be seen in the video. The presence of a basement in a private house or a detached one makes the life of the inhabitants of the site more comfortable. => Basement Under the House: How to Build the Right Way - Detailed Guide => => publish => open => closed => => pod-domom-podval-153 => => => 2019-04-09 20:25:14 => 2019-04-09 16:25:14 => => 0 =>?p=1683 => 0 => post => => 8 => raw => index,follow) => 0 => -1 => 385 => 385 => 0 => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => 1 => => => => => => => => => => => => => => Array ( => query_vars_hash => query_vars_changed) => Array ( => init_query_flags => parse_tax_query))

A common thing is the storage of various products and conservation in the cellar. An unpleasant fact is the presence of moisture, which can ruin all stocks. To cope with the situation that has arisen, you need to know how to dry the cellar. To do this, you can use not only specialized, but also improvised means. The article is devoted to the analysis of each of the methods of drainage, as well as the prevention of moisture.

Preparatory stage

The appearance of moisture in the cellar or basement does not pass without a trace. Usually it leads to the formation of mold and its spread throughout the basement. Therefore, before starting the drying of the basement, it is necessary to pass preparatory stage. The basement or cellar is carefully inspected and the general condition is assessed. After that, it is necessary to raise all the elements that are in the cellar. This applies not only to food stocks, but also to various shelves that are also present there. If the frame is made of metal, then it will need quality maintenance. It is better to do this during the transitional period - in the middle of summer. The air outside is warm, and the cellar is empty, because it is too early for new blanks. Wooden decking from the shelves needs to be exposed to the sun so that the ultraviolet rays do their job.

All mold in the cellar or basement will need to be brushed out. After that, the surface is treated with an antiseptic composition and, if desired, painted. Simultaneously with the emptying of the cellar, it is necessary to open its entrance and leave it in this position for several days. This is done for pre-ventilation. It is worth carrying out the procedure only if the weather is good warm outside. If the basement is equipped supply ventilation then the air will remove some of the moisture. It is advisable to inspect the ventilation ducts to make sure that nothing has clogged them.

Drying options with ventilation

Drying the basement or cellar after preliminary preparation can be done using hot air. It can be obtained using various combustible substances. At the same time, safety rules must be observed so as not to provoke a fire.

Bucket with coals

If the basement is equipped with a ventilation system, then drying will be much easier. Too warm weather can be a hindrance. The pressure difference is small, which prevents the outflow of air from the basement. To start the process, it is necessary to heat the air in the basement more. It will exit through the ventilation ducts, while collecting moisture. To carry out the process you will need:

• old metal utensils;
• charcoal.

A bucket or large pot can be used as a metal vessel. Even those with a lot of rust holes will do. The main requirement is that the bottom can support the weight of the coal. Using a drill, holes are additionally drilled for air flow. A steel cable is tied to the handle of the bucket or the handles of the pan, on which the container can be hung. The bucket is filled with coals, and they are kindled. To speed up the process, you can use a vacuum cleaner or a fan. After it was possible to achieve uniform combustion, the container can be lowered into the cellar. The cable is fixed from above and the hatch closes. The bucket should not reach the cellar floor.

During combustion, the mass fraction of oxygen will decrease. If it is not enough, the coal will go out. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to open the door every half hour for a fresh portion of air. This can also be done through the supply pipe, if available. A small fan is installed on it and injection is done. Going down to the basement while the process is in progress is prohibited. In a compact room, carbon monoxide and smoke quickly accumulate, which at the moment can make you lose consciousness. When it becomes clear that the coal has completely burned out, then you need to get the container and close the basement tightly for several days. The process will still continue.

Note! By-products that are released during combustion will contribute to the destruction of the fungus. Therefore, in this way you can kill two birds with one stone.

If charcoal is not available, then you can use peat or ordinary coal, which can be purchased at the base. In this case, it is possible to achieve a temperature that will exceed 80 °. This improves efficiency and speeds up the process. Charcoal can be prepared by yourself if the required types of wood are available.

Electrical devices

If there is no particular desire to mess with the brazier, constantly watching it, then you can dry the cellar using the available electrical appliances. Oil radiators can be used for heating in winter, infrared heaters or small duikas. Great solution there will be an industrial heat fan. The device is placed in the middle of the cellar. If the floor in the basement is earthen, then it is necessary to build a wooden shield or use another stand for the heater. An extension cord is lowered into the cellar. The cross section of its cable must correspond to the expected load so that a short circuit does not occur.

In time, this method of drying the basement will take much longer. In addition, it is worth monitoring the overheating sensors that may be in the device. The temperature in the basement may not reach 80 degrees, but it will exceed the maximum allowable for the heater. An excellent solution for drying a basement or cellar would be an electric industrial fan heater. By power, you can choose depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cellar. The performance of this option will be ideal for the cellar.

Advice! It is better to plug the heater into an outlet that is located directly next to the electric meter or has a minimum distance for it. They are usually the most powerful.

Dry alcohol and a candle

An interesting solution for drying the cellar and basement can be the use of an ordinary candle. Naturally, one candle will not be able to do anything if it is placed in the middle of the room. Maybe a hundred candles will give the result for the cellar, but it will be completely covered with ashes. Therefore, you need to place it somewhere else. The candle is placed in a non-flammable container and lit. After that, it is placed directly under the ventilation chimney. Additionally, it can be slightly lengthened to lower closer to the floor. The candle will heat up the air under the pipe and create the required draft. To increase the flow into the basement or cellar, you need to slightly open the hatch or door. Due to the rapid change of air masses in the cellar or basement, drying occurs. Periodically it is necessary to change the candle. Instead of a candle to dry the basement, you can use dry alcohol, which is placed in a special burner or on a metal base.

Note! In most cases, when using this method in the warm season, the opposite reaction occurs. The basement or cellar is again filled with moisture to an even greater extent. This is explained by cold air from the basement is replaced by warm, which subsequently condenses on the walls in the form of water droplets. If such an effect was noticed when drying the basement, it is necessary to stop the procedure and use the heating method or wait until the beginning of autumn.

forced injection

When the ventilation system is properly organized in the basement, then there may be no problems with drying it. There are several ways to organize this. overpressure inside a basement or cellar. The first of them involves the installation of a blower fan on the supply pipe. At the same time, its performance should be as high as possible. The higher the number, the faster the replacement of the masses inside the basement will occur. At the same time, all ventilation pipes must be cleaned of debris and protective grilles removed. The fan can also be placed on the chimney. In the case when there is only an exhaust pipe, and the air supply occurs through the hatch, then the fan can be mounted directly in the hatch opening. He will do his job well.

Drying without ventilation

Drying without ventilation of the cellar or basement will be more troublesome, but it can still be done using improvised or specialized tools.

Use of bedding

Not everyone during construction knew about the need for ventilation in the basement or cellar. Therefore, in some cases it is necessary to know how to dry the cellar without ventilation. In any case, it would be desirable to arrange ventilation for the basement or cellar, which is appropriate to do in the warm season. To help drain the basement, special substances can come that perfectly absorb a large amount of moisture. One of them is sawdust. They can be purchased or obtained free of charge at any carpentry workshop. You will need a lot of them. A layer of sawdust covers all accessible planes in the basement. They will not be able to ensure the complete dryness of the cellar, but they will lower the humidity to an acceptable level. In this case, it will be necessary to replace the flooring as it gets wet. It is not worth delaying with this, so that putrefactive processes do not begin, which will aggravate the situation.

Another available remedy is slaked lime. It also needs to be scattered around the entire perimeter of the basement or cellar. It will be able to absorb a certain amount of moisture. At the same time, it will also provide some disinfection. In almost every locality, calcium chloride is available. It is able to absorb moisture, which will be equal to half its weight. You will have to stock up on a fair amount of the substance if the humidity in the basement or cellar is significant. It can be used multiple times. To do this, you need to ignite it on a metal baking sheet to dry. Cardboard boxes will help collect condensation from the walls and ceiling in the basement or cellar. If there are a large number of them in the bins, then it is enough to place them in the basement for a day. After drying in the sun, they can be used again.

Note! Before descending into the basement or cellar, where slaked lime or calcium chloride has been decomposed, it is necessary to ventilate the room well.

Absorbers

An excellent tool that will tell you how to dry the basement is an absorber. They can be of two types:

• non-volatile;
• working from the network.

The first are small plastic container with a special substance that is fixed over it. It collects moisture in this container. Typically, such devices are small in size, so a cellar or basement will need several devices. Dehumidifiers that use freon are more efficient. Structurally, they resemble air conditioners or refrigerators. They condense moisture in the basement onto pipes, after which it is collected in a pan, which must be emptied periodically. A video of the drying of the cellar can be viewed below.

How to prevent moisture

To produce constant seasonal drying of the basement or cellar is not an option. In addition, over time, this will lead to the destruction of building materials, which will incur large expenses for the restoration of the basement or cellar. To prevent this from happening, it is important to take preventive measures.

Floor

Often it is a problem that there is high humidity in the basement or cellar. It is very easy to leave the earthen floor without making screeds on it. But the moisture that is contained in the ground will certainly rise to the cellar. One easy way to solve the problem would be to use a dense polyethylene film. It is laid on the floor with an overlap on the walls. Can be placed on top wooden shields or sheet material which will be easy to navigate. If, after applying this method, the humidity in the cellar or basement has decreased significantly, then the floor is the source. To consolidate the result, it is necessary to fill in the screed with a waterproofing gasket.

Waterproofing

If the situation has not changed after covering the floor with a film, then the problem may lie in the walls, more precisely, in their waterproofing. Concrete and brick have pores through which water will surely seep. At the construction stage, this moment could not be taken into account and the waterproofing of the cellar or basement could not be framed. It will take a lot of effort to resolve the issue. The first step is to dig a trench around the building. She should make the walls of the basement available for drying. They must be kept until completely dry. And only after that proceed to the finishing work.

One of simple solutions there will be a laying of roofing material on bituminous mastic. The surface of the walls is carefully examined. All cracks and potholes that may be present are sealed. After a long stay in a humid environment, the walls of the basement or cellar must be treated with an antiseptic composition. After drying, one or more layers of primer are applied to the basement walls. Next, a layer of bituminous mastic is applied. After drying, roofing material can be glued on the second. In this case, it is necessary to observe the overlap between the sheets in order to obtain a sealed structure. Along the way, you can carry out the insulation of the basement or cellar with foam.

Note! In an emergency, it is possible to carry out waterproofing from the inside of the basement or cellar. But it is worth remembering that this will not prevent moisture from climbing the walls, as well as destroy construction material outside.

Ventilation

Building ventilation for a basement or cellar is not a problem. If the basement is directly under the house, then the inflow can be made directly from the house so that warm air and not cold from the street, which could be a problem in winter. The outflow is done directly from the basement or cellar. In this case, the pipe rises above the roof of the building and a deflector is mounted on its end. Thus, it will be possible to achieve natural circulation of air currents.

Conclusion

As you can see, basement flooding or high humidity in cellars is not something out of the ordinary. Most often, it is enough to take simple measures to prevent such actions. Drying the basement is also not difficult if you have patience and make the required efforts.

Sometimes, despite the ventilation system arranged in the cellar, dampness still occurs there. It may appear as a result of insufficiently reliable waterproofing of the walls, or when placed on shelves and in chests, it is not completely dried vegetables. In addition, the ventilation itself can be the cause of high humidity, during the calculation and installation of which miscalculations were made.

How to dry the cellar on your own and extend its functionality, as well as prevent future accumulation of condensate on the walls, ceiling and floor? This question arises quite often among the owners of private houses, since the appearance of dampness in basements and cellars is by no means uncommon.

The process of drying the cellar or basement, of course, is carried out in summer time when the temperature outside is conducive to this event.

• First of all, while drying the room, it is necessary to dismantle and remove all accessories and structures intended for storing supplies - these are boxes, boxes, shelves and racks. It will be more convenient to take them out to the street for airing exactly in summer period, since at this moment there are almost no last year's stocks left in the cellar, and new ones have not yet been prepared, and the shelves are usually almost empty.
• Then, you need to open the door or hatch at the entrance to the cellar or basement and leave it in this position for two or three days, naturally, if the days are fine. Over this time Fresh air will begin the process of weathering moisture from the room. If normal ventilation is arranged in the cellar, then the pre-ventilation procedure will be much faster. At the same time, it will be possible to check how efficiently the ventilation system works - perhaps it needs preventive cleaning.
• It is possible that a certain thermostatic equilibrium has developed in the system - heavy and humid cold air is very “reluctantly” rising through the exhaust pipe. So, it is necessary to stimulate the initial natural cravings. This can be done by igniting a thick paper torch and bringing it to a short time to the outlet pipe. Hot smoke, leaving the hole, will pull the heavy one, and ventilation will improve.
• In case of strong humidity, with abundant condensation on the walls and on the ceiling, you can bring a box with a material that absorbs atmospheric moisture well into the cellar. It can be charcoal or even dry lime.
• While airing is in progress, you can come to grips with the wooden structures taken out of the cellar. A direct effect on their condition will be beneficial sunlight- this will contribute not only to drying, but also to the death of mold or fungus colonies that cannot withstand ultraviolet rays. Too raw parts can be burned in the flame of a blowtorch.

- All wooden parts must be washed with soapy water with the addition of soda. You can use a formalin solution that has good antiseptic properties. For greater effect, this solution can be “flavored” with the addition of copper sulfate.

- After washing and drying, chests, boxes, shelves and other parts taken out into the air can be covered with a layer of whitewash with the addition of a solution of copper sulfate (about 100 g per bucket of finished lime).

• It would be useful to fumigate the room with sulfur - it leads to the death of microorganisms, insects, and prevents the invasion of rodents. To do this, use special smoke bombs, which can be purchased at agricultural equipment stores. It is clear that when carrying out such fumigation, all precautions must be strictly observed, since the smoke from these checkers is very harmful to the human respiratory system.

• After the initial ventilation, it is necessary to clean the walls and floor of the cellar from plaque and debris. All surfaces should be treated with a "strong" solution of potassium permanganate. If there is an earthen floor in the cellar, then it makes sense to cut off the top layer of soil, as it is often affected by putrefactive bacteria or mold. Instead, you can make a backfill with clean, dry sand.

If the measures taken are not enough, and the humidity in the cellar remains high, then you can proceed to the final drying of the room, which can be carried out in several ways.

Methods for forced drying of the cellar

Using the brazier

For a long time, the method of drying the cellar using a brazier, which you can make yourself from an old metal bucket or other container, has been used.

Fire can be made right in it, having previously made several holes in its lower part to create traction. You can install a cast-iron or home-made, from a metal rod, a grate, and cut the bottom completely. Be sure to provide legs, approximately 100 ÷ 150 mm high. In addition, a hook with a cable or wire is being prepared, on which the brazier will be lowered into the cellar.

The location of the future installation of this brazier must be free of any flammable materials. If the floor in the cellar is wooden non-removable, then it is forbidden to use this method.

Charcoal or firewood can be loaded into the prepared brazier, fire is kindled with the help of splinters or liquid for fireplaces. Then, the brazier is lowered down on a cable. It remains to monitor the combustion and the need to add fuel. Due to the blowing from below, a strong draft will be created in the brazier. The fire must burn continuously, for 10 ÷ 12 hours.

Hot air will quickly fill the room, warming it up and weathering it. unpleasant odors mustiness, as well as disinfecting surfaces with smoke. In a well-dried and smoke-smelling room, colonies of microorganisms or harmful insects should not develop.

It is best to install the brazier, if possible, in the middle of the cellar, then the smoke will evenly cover the entire room and go into the ventilation pipe. For this drying method, it would be optimal to use dry birch or linden poles, since this wood has disinfectant properties and removes unpleasant odors well.

Going down into the cellar during such fumigation is strictly prohibited - it is deadly. All actions with the brazier are performed only on the street, after raising it to the surface on cable .

Drying the cellar with a candle

Another, quite popular way is to dry the cellar with an ordinary candle. It is installed in an iron can and placed near the exhaust ventilation pipe, and the front door or hatch is kept open for drying.

It is advisable to place the candle as close to the floor surface as possible. At the same time, the exhaust pipe is increased with an additional tin link.

It would seem that a very small candle flame creates intense traction, so the air circulation inside the room is accelerated. The faster the accumulated stale air in the cellar comes out, the faster fresh warm air from the street will get there. In this case, the drying of the entire room is not due to its heating, but precisely because of check quick air change, that is, intensive ventilation.

The candle, if desired, can be replaced with an alcohol burner.

A similar ventilation process can last several days, depending on the humidity of the cellar. A burnt-out candle is replaced as many times as necessary until all surfaces of the cellar are dry.

Use of dry alcohol

This method practically does not differ in its technology from the one described above - instead of a candle, dry sleep tablets are used. However, it also has its own advantage.

Use of electrical appliances

Drying the cellar with the help of various can be attributed to the fourth method. A heater can be used for this. closed type, such as oil, infrared, or convector. It is installed in the middle of the cellar with the expectation that thermal radiation will spread evenly over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

Naturally, if there is an earthen floor in the cellar, then a rigid base must be prepared for the heater.

If a decision is made to dry with an electric heater, you need to be patient, as this process can be delayed. You also need to remember that heaters, as a rule, always have a high power consumption, and this event will cost a lot. Therefore, if it is possible to use another method of drying, it is better to refuse such a method.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the heat generator (it is often called a heat gun), which is very often used to dry various rooms. And, it is used not only for drying rooms with high humidity, but also for rooms that were in flooded houses. Thanks to the power of thermal radiation and the fan built into such a gun, the drying of the cellar is quite fast. Although such a heater also consumes a lot of electricity, the drying process can be even cheaper, weeks using conventional heaters, due to the fact that the procedure takes much less time.

Application of forced ventilation

Some owners of private houses with cellars are not very puzzled over the question of how to dry their pantry. They open the front door leading to the basement several times during the summer period and install a fan in the middle of the opening or on the stairs, which will increase the movement of air. In this case, the drying of the surfaces will take place not under the influence of heat, but by weathering excess moisture.

This drying method is best suited for cellars where an exhaust vent is installed and the process will take from three to five days, depending on the volume of the room.

Folk craftsmen invent and own designs with large and small fans, for example, temporarily or even permanently embedding them in the exhaust ventilation pipe. An example of such a design can be found by watching the attached video:

Video: homemade duct fan for drying the cellar

Using a portable stove

Many are accustomed to drying their pantries with the help of small, wood-heated ones. The pipe from the furnace is brought to the exhaust hole and opens Entrance door or sunroof. To achieve the desired success, this event is carried out for 3-4 days. The generated draft promotes good air circulation. In addition, direct thermal radiation from the walls of the potbelly stove also plays a role.

This drying method is quite fire hazardous. In addition, it cannot be used if the exhaust ventilation duct it is made of a plastic pipe, which will simply begin to melt from the high temperature of the exhaust smoke. You can, of course, use a flexible fireproof hose or a team metal structure to organize a temporary chimney, but it looks too complicated and costly.

Processing the cellar after drying

After drying, before bringing in and installing all processed wooden structures, you should thoroughly check the condition of the floor and walls. Perhaps the reason for the increased humidity lies in the fact that they did not receive sufficient waterproofing, and ground moisture freely penetrates into the cellar. If so, then appropriate action should be taken.

If concrete surfaces were dried, then it is recommended to treat them with waterproofing compounds, which in the future will not allow excessive moisture to reappear in the cellar.

• Today, a lot of materials are produced for waterproofing, but for concrete surfaces, an impregnating option is perfect, which is able to penetrate deep into the structure of concrete.

Impregnation is applied in several layers, each of which must penetrate to a certain depth and dry well. The composition closes all microscopic pores of concrete and crystallizes inside. It creates a reliable barrier to moisture, and at the same time leaves the material to "breathe".

With impregnating waterproofing compositions, you need to work very carefully, wearing a protective suit, gloves and a mask that covers the respiratory organs, otherwise you can get skin and mucous membrane burns. After absorption and polymerization, such a composition poses absolutely no danger to human health or to the safety of products.

• Another option that is suitable for cellar waterproofing is the familiar roofing material. But this material can also be laid only on a concrete surface, which is pre-coated with mastic. Then the mastic is heated with a burner, roofing material is glued onto it and pressed well against the surface. Individual canvases are laid overlapping st on top of each other and form a solid surface, which also protects well from the appearance of moisture from the ground.

If it is not possible to use modern technologies for arranging a cellar, or preference is given exclusively natural materials, then you need to secure at least the floor of the room. To do this, you need a natural material - clay. This method of waterproofing the floor is called stuffing, and for it it is necessary to choose clay with the highest possible percentage of fat content. In addition, you will need stones or broken bricks, which will become a reinforcing link in creating a clay coating.

• The stones are poured over the entire surface of the floor, and a solution of rubbed clay is laid out on top of them and not a large number sand, 120 ÷ 150 mm thick. The consistency of the solution should be thick enough.
• The clay is spread over the surface and then compacted between the stones with a rammer, adding mortar until it completely covers the stone mound.
• After the floor becomes even and dense due to stones and tamping, coarse-grained sand is poured onto the still wet surface with a layer of 50 ÷ 70 cm. From the maximum possible it is compacted into a clay surface until it becomes dense. The remains of sand that could not be driven into clay are swept away from the surface. If you need a perfectly flat surface, then it is overwritten with a special wooden tool- grouts.

• This is followed by a long drying of the clay floor with an open hatch or door to the cellar. This process can take from 15 to 40 days, so it is best to start work on it in early or mid-summer so that the surface is fully ready for use by autumn.

Cellar walls can also be plastered with clay. But first it is necessary to make a wire mesh on the walls, which is fixed to earthen surfaces with the help of wire brackets.

Then, a thick solution of clay is poured onto the reinforced base and left to dry. It is not necessary to level this layer. Next, the following layer clay mortar, which the usually leveled by hand, in a circular motion, or in the same way as the floor - with a wooden grout.

In addition to these types of waterproofing, there are others, for example, or glass. You can choose any of them, which seems more affordable, but waterproofing is a must. It will help protect the room from the penetration of ground dampness, and hence from the occurrence of fungal colonies and mold spots, the presence of which negatively affects the safety of vegetables and fruits.

After the drying and waterproofing work is fully completed, you can bring in and install all the items of the “interior” of the cellar. After competently and fully implemented preventive measures, the degree of safety of products placed for the winter will be much higher.

Video: how to beat dampness in the cellar - theory and practice

The cellar in a private house serves as a year-round storage of vegetables and other household utensils. As a rule, there are no windows in the basement; at best, it has a ventilation duct. It is not surprising that dampness accumulates in the room.

What is the danger of cellar humidity

Increased humidity in the cellar and the lack of ventilation in it together lead to a number of unpleasant consequences:

• In the room, all surfaces are damp - walls, floor, ceiling (floor of the first floor). This phenomenon is especially dangerous for wooden structures, which leads to their decay;
• Raw air negatively affects the storage of vegetables - they deteriorate;
• Water serves as an excellent environment for the development of mold, fungi and other microflora, which causes rotting of fruits, damage to wood, an unpleasant smell in the basement;
• From the damp basement, the first floor also gets - the moisture on the walls is able to rise up, bringing mold with it to the walls of the living rooms.

The situation is aggravated when the basement is not ventilated at all. Then there is no air exchange, which only contributes to an increase in humidity. As a result - weakening of structures, deterioration of winter food stocks, health problems are not ruled out.

How to prevent dampness in the basement

To drain the cellar is not needed at all, it is necessary to exclude all forming factors at the construction stage:

• 1) Thoroughly waterproof the walls. This will prevent moisture from entering through the structures, and will also prevent water from seeping into the wall itself from inside the room;
• 2) Properly organize the waterproofing of the floor to prevent water from entering from the ground. To do this, the base is covered with roofing material or other polymeric material in 1-2 layers overlapping the wall, the seams are carefully soldered gas burner. Thus, a sealed "boiler" is obtained. Crushed stone is poured into it, a reinforcing mesh is laid and a concrete screed is poured. Such a floor cannot be flooded even with a sharp rise in the groundwater level.
• 3) Vapor barrier of the ceiling will help reduce the ingress of moisture from the room and block the road of dampness from the basement to the wooden floor.

Proper arrangement of the hood

The mistake of many builders and developers is the construction of a basement without an exhaust hood. This is the main reason for the accumulation of dampness in the cellar. Without an extractor hood, it is difficult to dry the cellar from dampness afterwards. Organizing ventilation is simple: opposite side from the manhole you need to install an exhaust pipe, one end of which is under the ceiling, and the other goes outside through the wall. It is not necessary to take a large diameter tube, 40-50 mm will be enough.

Wall processing

It is necessary to treat the walls and ceiling with a solution of lime, as well as wooden shelves before placing stocks of vegetables in the cellar. It is necessary to carry out preventive disinfection at least once a year.

How to dry the cellar from dampness

If the necessary measures were not taken during the construction of the house and before laying vegetables in the cellar, it is necessary to dry the air in the basement before removing them. After that, you can carry out preventive and repair work for structural insulation and surface treatment.

Some sources give a different algorithm of actions: first repair, then drying. This is fundamentally wrong: high humidity the whitewash layer will dry much longer, changing or installing waterproofing on a wet surface is completely meaningless, since water will remain between the structure and the roofing material, and it is uncomfortable to work in a wet room.

Preparing for dehumidification

The basic principle of air dehumidification is its heating in order to increase the water temperature and its natural removal through ventilation. The main task is to spin the air exchange flow. Therefore, before embarking on drying measures, it is necessary to remove from the premises all stocks and items that should not be heated - vegetables, cans with blanks, wooden crafts. Ideally, only the floor and walls should remain in the basement, if available, shelving, they also need to dry for further processing.

Method 1: install the brazier

The first method is suitable for drying the cellar in the garage. You will need a brazier, which is in many households. If there is none, you can use a metal bucket or an ordinary barbecue.

How to dry:

1. First of all, we open all the holes leading to the basement: manhole, ventilation, if any - windows.
2. We install the brazier in the basement. It is desirable to place it in the center of the room for uniform drying, but not right next to the wooden shelves.
3. We make a fire in a brazier / bucket / brazier. For breeding, we use chips, then we throw in large firewood and make a good bookmark.

The essence of the method: humidity and condensate evaporate naturally, heated air, according to the law of physics, rises up the exhaust pipe, air exchange is twisted, so oxygen for the furnace will flow through the manhole. The smoke from the wood impregnates all surfaces, drying them and preparing them for further processing.

This method is only suitable for non-residential premises, since drying is done with smoke. The brazier should work for 1-2 days, it is constantly necessary to put new firewood into it.

Method 2: air heaters

Air heaters will help to dry the cellar in winter according to the same principle of heating the air and twisting natural whirlwinds, but without smoke. These are compact heat guns that can be configured to desired temperature. For complete drying, the device is turned on at full power and left to work until complete removal dampness in the room. After that, the heater can be turned on periodically to dry the newly formed moisture.

The device is suitable for use in vegetable stores and other premises where it is necessary to heat or dry the air.

Method 3: candle

It is possible to dry the basement of a private house without strong air heating, but this will take more time. You will need the simplest candle, it is better to take a long burning so that it lasts longer.

• 1) First you need to organize a long exhaust pipe, if it is not. Without a pipe, it will not be possible to create a traction effect.
• 2) We install the candle in a metal or glass container and put it on a non-combustible tray directly under the base of the exhaust pipe. We light a candle.
• 3) To start the draft, take a small sheet of paper and set fire to it right at the base of the hood.

Principle of operation: the candle heats the air under draft, it rises into the pipe, natural air exchange is twisted and the room is dehumidified with dry supply air.

This method is useful for draining a small basement in the warm season, for example, before harvesting. Moisture is expelled by the supply air, which, in turn, must also be dry. The process lasts 3-4 days, it is necessary to constantly and timely change the candles.

sawdust and newspapers

To collect moisture in the room, hygroscopic materials can be used: sawdust, newspapers, boxes and waste paper. They are scattered around the entire perimeter or area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe basement for a while. Materials absorb excess moisture and are then removed. This method by itself will not dry the room, but will help maintain dry air after drying work.

Which way to choose: summary

So, to dry the basement of a private house, methods are suitable:

• Candle;
• Thermal heater.

The candle will be useful for a small basement in the summer before the harvest, heat gun will help get rid of large-scale dampness in a room with any area at any time of the year.

The method of kindling a cellar with firewood is not suitable for a basement in a private house, since carbon monoxide and smoke will enter the living quarters, which is unacceptable. Thus preparing for seasonal storage vegetable pits standing separately from the premises or in the garage. The only caveat is that the car will have to “live” on the street for several days.

In itself, drying the room is good, but for maintenance in the basement normal humidity competent ventilation and waterproofing of walls, ceilings and floors is necessary. All surfaces must be treated in a timely manner with an antiseptic, the best, most effective and cheapest is a simple whitewash.

Dampness in the cellar is a huge problem for most summer residents and suburban residents. As a rule, humidity rises due to poor-quality thermal or waterproofing, as well as due to the large amount of fruits and vegetables stored indoors. In some cases, condensate is formed due to the lack of ventilation system. Whatever the reason, a wet cellar is in no way suitable for storing food in it, which, with constant exposure to moisture, will quickly deteriorate. That is why moisture must be removed and completely eliminated from such a phenomenon as condensate. We will talk today about how to dry the cellar and properly prepare it for laying the crop.

Carrying out preparatory work

Humidity in the cellar, as a rule, is at a high enough level, so condensation forms on the walls and ceiling. Preparatory work include the complete emptying of the premises from vegetables stored there since last year (they are no longer suitable for consumption, so it is best to remove them from storage).

In addition, it is recommended to temporarily get rid of the wooden elements of the room (racks, pallets, various bins, boxes, shelves, etc.). All wooden structures must be taken outside, then washed with hot water and soapy water. They must be completely dry before further use.

Before dehumidifying the air in the storage, all supplies and products from there should be taken out.

A fairly common and effective method of disinfecting the wooden elements of the storage is to apply a layer of whitewash with the addition of ordinary copper sulphate. As a whitewash, as a rule, ordinary lime acts, which can be found on sale in any store. Humidity and condensation in this case will not affect the wood.

In addition, in order to protect wooden elements from mold and fungus, it is necessary to apply antiseptic impregnation on them. You can use any composition sold in the store.

The walls and ceiling of the vault can also be whitewashed and dried later. Otherwise, due to increased dampness in the room, it will not be possible to keep the crop in the proper form. In the fall, when it rains continuously, it will not be possible to dry the cellar efficiently, so all work should be carried out in the summer.

How is storage drying?

In order to get rid of excess moisture in the cellar, it is not enough just to open all the ventilation holes and the manhole cover. In the cellar, the air will systematically cool down, and the moisture from it will condense, so it will not work to dry the underground room with ordinary ventilation. Humidity and condensate, even after several days of keeping the storage with the hatch open, will not go anywhere. To dry the cellar before the seasonal laying of the crop, more radical methods should be used.

There are several of the most common ways in which the drying of the room is carried out. Humidity and condensation are a big problem, but with forced drying, they are easy to get rid of.

So, you can remove excess dampness, humidity and condensate in the following ways:

• Drying a cellar or vegetable store with an iron stove.
• Drying the basement using a brazier.
• The use of the most common candles, which will improve the natural draft of air.
• The use of special dehumidifiers.

It should be noted that heating the storage with an iron stove is extremely time-consuming and troublesome, so it is recommended to abandon this method immediately. And not everyone has the opportunity to install such a stove in storage. It is better to use the remaining three methods, since it is important to dry the cellar quickly and without unnecessary hassle.

Fast drying with a roaster

You can remove excess air humidity and condensate from the cellar using the simplest brazier. This device of small size (portable) is in almost any suburban economy. In any case, you can ask your neighbors.

The brazier quickly heats up the air in the room.

Before drying the cellar with a brazier, it is necessary to partially get rid of excess dampness by natural drying for several days. In this case, the brazier will only “finish off” the remaining dampness, humidity and condensate.

If you did not find a suitable device for drying or a brazier, then you can make it yourself from the simplest old bucket.

The drying process itself is as follows:

• Before drying, we open all the holes that go to the cellar (manhole, ventilation pipes).
• Next, we lower our brazier (bucket) to the bottom of the storage. You can do it yourself or with a rope and a hook.
• We kindle a fire in the brazier. It must be maintained for some time until the damp air completely leaves the room.
• According to the laws of physics, warm and dry air from the bottom of the cellar will gradually rise, displacing damp air into open holes. After some time, the cellar will dry out completely.

The principle of drying the basement using a brazier from an ordinary bucket.

Before drying the cellar in this way, it is necessary to provide for some nuances:

1. To ignite the brazier, it is recommended to use sawdust and chips. As soon as the fire breaks out, larger wood can be thrown into the brazier. It is important that the brazier is ignited before you lower it to the bottom of the cellar.
2. The heat from the fire will quickly warm up the room, bringing damp air out. In turn, dry air will quickly spread through the cellar. It is necessary that the whole room is saturated with smoke. This will get rid of any biological activity in the storage, which also negatively affects the storage of vegetables and fruits. The effect of heating the air in this case will persist for a long time.

However, the condensate in the cellar does not always disappear immediately after drying, so you need to wait a bit and, if necessary, repeat the event, as well as check the quality of the ventilation system.

Drying the cellar with a candle

If you don't feel like messing around with the brazier, there's an easier way to keep your cellar dry and damp. To do this, you need the most ordinary candle.

The candle must be placed under the exhaust pipe.

A lit candle, placed under the exhaust duct, will increase the air draft, and also allow you to get rid of dampness. It will take much longer to dry the cellar with a candle than with a brazier, but if you have nowhere to rush, then this method can be used without problems.

When using the candle drying method, it is required to increase the length of the ventilation pipe (inlet if two pipes are used). This must be done. Further, a lit candle is installed directly under the inlet of the exhaust pipe. The candle is best placed in a small container (for example, in a jar).

To give a certain impulse, which will become the beginning of air draft, it is necessary to set fire to a paper sheet in the exhaust pipe. Next, the thrust will be maintained by a candle flame.

It has already been noted above that this slow way drying and it can be used if you have enough time. All work on drying the cellar is best done a few days before harvesting, so that the room has time to warm up, dry out and get rid of all biological activity. With the help of a lit candle, you can dry the cellar in 3-4 days. During this time, you will have to change a few candles.

If the cellar is large, then getting rid of dampness and humidity with a candle will not work.

Air dryers

Since it is difficult to dry a large cellar with improvised means, for effective disposal from moisture, special dehumidifiers are used. These devices allow you to dry the room qualitatively, and then maintain the humidity indicator at a normal level. It is advisable to dry the air in the cellar periodically.

Appearance and scheme of operation of the dehumidifier.

Dehumidifiers are especially relevant for commercial operation. basements and vegetable stores. Modern dehumidifiers are sold in large hardware stores, as well as in specialized departments, so there will be no problems with their purchase. For information on how to dry a cellar with a dehumidifier, it is best to ask a sales assistant who will be able to advise a model suitable for your room.

The principle of drying stagnant and damp air in the basement is that moisture always condenses on cold surfaces. The air passing through a conventional dehumidifier is cooled, and the moisture settles in a special receiver, after which it drops into a drip tray. Dehumidifiers work on the principle of cooling the air, not heating it (unlike a brazier and a candle), so the appliance will cool the cellar to some extent. However, on sale you can find such devices that at the outlet will heat the air to its original temperature.

Modern dehumidifiers work on the basis of freon (like refrigerators and air conditioners). The air will enter the dehumidifier with the help of a fan. If your home also wet air, then a dehumidifier from the basement is quite suitable for use in other areas of the building.

Which method to choose?

You can make the cellar absolutely dry and suitable for storing fruits and vegetables using any of the proposed methods. You should choose one or another method based on the total area of ​​\u200b\u200byour cellar. For example, there is no need to buy an expensive dehumidifier if your cellar does not exceed 2 square meters. m. In this case, the problem of humidity is easily solved with the help of a brazier or a candle.

It will be possible to lower fruits and vegetables into the cellar immediately after all work on drying the premises is completed. It should be noted that it is not recommended to dry the cellar additionally during operation. This approach will negatively affect the quality of stored vegetables.

In order to avoid the need to often dry the cellar, it is necessary to foresee the presence of a high-quality ventilation system in advance. For small cellars, a design of two pipes (supply and exhaust) located on different height. They will provide continuous replacement of air. If the cellar has a large area, then a forced ventilation device is recommended. In addition, if it is the floor of a dwelling, it will be necessary to make high-quality thermal insulation of the floor. The cold air from the storage should not be allowed to affect the microclimate in the house.