How to quickly dry the cellar from dampness and fungus. Drying cellars with high humidity How to dry a vegetable pit without fire

When you make repairs, of course, you want it to be of high quality, good, durable. After all, who wants, for example, in a year again to hold repair work? I don't think anyone. Why am I asking this?

Crazy Builder.ru tell you how to dry the underground in the house. Why do I need this, you ask? And what's the difference how to dry this underground? After all, they put a floor on it, and everything will be fine. But here you are wrong. It's no secret that everything starts with the basics. Everyone knows that the earth that is under the floor is an eternal source of moisture. Which leads to dampness and an unpleasant rotten smell. That's why it's so important to know how to dry the underground in the house. After all, no one wants to be in a room where it is humid and damp, and besides, a terrible smell? Read now how to dry the basement in the house and this problem will bypass you. And your home will always be cozy, warm and comfortable. How does excess moisture enter our homes?

1. So, if you do not have a good quality excuse, then water will enter through cracks in the foundation. If so, be sure to learn how to dry the underground in the house and make a good excuse.

2. In spring and autumn, when the groundwater level is so high, water soaks under your floor. And finally, wet and warm air gets under the floor. And therefore, condensation occurs in our house, or rather, dew drops appear on the walls of the room.

Several ways to dry the basement (basement) in the house

The first mechanism is sealing

1. To dry the basement (underground) in the house, you need to install an exhaust pipe so that it reaches the bottom of the underground.

2. Enough effective method, dry the underground (basement) in the house, to speed up the process of drying the underground, you can put a lit candle under the bottom of the pipe.

3. You will need to conduct groundwater drainage. The first thing to do for this is to punch small grooves along the entire length of the underground foundation.

Tip: make them with a slope to one corner of the building. The second is to put down the pipe. It is done so that the water from the tubules comes out.

5. It is possible, according to the same principle as with grooves, to make drainage with pipes. But for this, pipes should be installed even before the construction of the underground.

6. And one more, in my opinion, the easiest way, how to dry the underground in the house. So, for this you will need to cover the underground with any material that isolates water, for example, a good option is roofing material, plastic wrap. But, what is very important, you need to do this before you put the subfloor. Waterproofing materials will not allow moisture to pass through, and the subfloor will remain dry. Press the roofing material or film in several places so that it does not move.

By the way, this option for dealing with underground moisture is simple, but effective. Of course, these are not all methods of how to dry the basement in the house. But still basic and not very expensive, which is also important. Know that the key to your quality, good repair lies in the details. No, technologies for drying the underground in a house are not trifles, but many do not think about it. And then there are all sorts of problems. Condensation on the walls, dampness, an unpleasant rotten smell. Control everything and make your home cozy and warm. Renovations need to be taken very seriously. Therefore, do not be lazy and find out how to dry the underground in the house. And trust me, many problems can be avoided. After all, it is important for your health. Who will benefit from moist, damp air or maybe condensation on the walls?

Most owners of cellars and basements are faced with the problem of excessive moisture in these areas.

Often these phenomena are exacerbated seasonally and have a quite understandable physical nature. And sometimes this is due to errors in the construction of these premises. But whatever the nature of the origin high humidity there are ways to deal with it.

Simple ways to dry the cellar

First of all, you need to determine the source of moisture. To do this, in the place of its greatest accumulation on the wall, you need to attach a not very large piece of plastic film, after drying the place under it, albeit with a household hair dryer. After a few days, drops of water will condense on it. If they are under the film, the wall is the source of moisture, which means: either it does not work, or the external waterproofing of your cellar has become unusable, or the groundwater level has risen, and we will talk about ways to deal with this situation in the next section. If drops form on the film, it most likely does not work well. supply and exhaust ventilation or the top floor of the cellar is not insulated.

It is easy to check ventilation - by the presence of draft, and if it is clogged, clean the channels. The structure of the cellar, incl. its insulation is described in.

These errors are relatively easy to fix. In addition, ventilation can always be made forced by installing suitable fans in its channels, which turn on at the command of a hygrometer - a device that measures the level of humidity. Of course, there are also expensive modern split systems, but not everyone can afford them.

If the mentioned adjustments have corrected the situation - well, if not - more drastic measures are needed. How, in such cases, to dry the cellar in the garage?

Sometimes, if you have condensation on the walls and ceiling of the cellar during the summer airing-drying of an empty cellar (moisture from warm outside air condenses on its cold walls and ceiling), it will be enough to apply one of the 3 quick drying methods, about which we will talk a little lower. And before that, you need to clean the cellar as much as possible from everything that was left in it from last year and work with wooden racks and shelves.

Remove all wood fittings from your cellar, remove any physical deposits (if any) from the surface of the wood, carefully scrape it off, and leave it to dry in a well-ventilated area. It is desirable that the wood does not get wet.

After the wood has dried, it will not be superfluous to process it aqueous solution copper sulfate or any antiseptic sold in hardware stores.

The walls and ceiling of the garage cellar can be whitened slaked lime, and if there are traces of mold, then before that also treat them with a solution of copper sulfate. The last, of the described procedures, must be carried out after the cellar has dried.

Drying the basement with candles, a brazier and a dehumidifier

Let's consider in order.

1. Drainage with candles.

The candle is placed in a jar and installed under the pipe exhaust ventilation. The flame of a candle, slightly warming the air, increases the draft, and hence the ventilation.

This is enough for small cellars and basements to become dry in them. This will take several days and several candles.

2. Dehumidification with a brazier or a metal stove.

We deprive an old bucket or similar metal container of the bottom and put it on any grate with legs - a half from an old barbecue net or similar to it is quite suitable. We kindle a fire in a bucket and support it until the room is completely dry. Such a design cannot be used wooden floors. If you have them in your basement, then put the brazier in a low box of sand.

With this method of drying, a certain disinfection with smoke is also carried out. It is more efficient than the previous one. A small cellar in the garage can be dried in a day.

3. Drying the cellar using a dehumidifier.

If your basement is not ventilated, you can only dry it out with a dehumidifier.

These devices, passing through themselves wet air, collect moisture from it in a special reservoir. From the scheme, the principle of their operation is clear, and they can be used, unlike the first two, not only with an empty cellar, but when the need arises. The same device gives an answer to the question: how to dry the cellar without ventilation, but it is better to do it if such a problem occurs periodically.

Also, humidity can rise sharply immediately after the mass laying of vegetables in the cellar, due to an excess of it in them themselves and due to the fact that they have a higher temperature than that established in the room. If the ventilation functions well and the cellar is insulated, this phenomenon will disappear after the vegetables have adapted to the temperature of the cellar.

If moisture enters the cellar through the wall

Moisture can also seep through the seams. wall material, places where walls adjoin the floor, ceiling, etc. There may be several reasons and we mentioned them above. But first of all, do not forget to analyze the possibility of leakage of water supply and drainage communications located near the basement or in it. In this case, you cannot do without eliminating the source of the flood in your basement, but we do not consider this situation in the article.

First of all, you need to find out: the level of groundwater has not risen for any reason. This can be signaled by:

• rising water levels in wells near the basement;
• changes in the behavior of plants, and even the inexplicable death of some of them.

If you have a suspicion about this, drill a 2-meter well with a hand drill with nozzles and see if water appears in it in a couple of days. If this happened, then it would be right to decide on a local decrease in groundwater in your area or at least in the area of ​​\u200b\u200byour cellar.

The diagram shows one of the options for local reduction underground water. The device of such a drainage system can solve the problem. A device on the site can also help, with the removal of excess water from the local zone into it, or the construction of a full-fledged drainage system for the entire site.

In this case, the correct decision will be related to the alteration of the cellar (or basement) floor and the installation of individual drainage in it.

Drainage pipes, densely perforated with holes of small diameter, lay in a "fur coat" of crushed stone of a larger fraction than these holes, and wrap it all with geotextile on the outside.

Although you can do more easy way ohm: a device in the lower corner of the catchment well room with an automatically activated drainage pump and water drainage away from the cellar.

And better - in the drainage well.

If the reason for the entry of moisture into the basement through the walls is associated with a violation of the external waterproofing, then it is best to restore it according to the traditional scheme.

But, in front of the device clay castle it is necessary to apply any effective waterproofing material to the walls: bituminous primer, penetrating waterproofing, etc.

If outside there is no way to re-waterproof your cellar, then you need to do it from the inside. For this:

1. Cut all structural joints between blocks or bricks, floor and wall, ceiling, removing the “weak” mortar as deep as possible.
2. Prime the recesses with a penetron-type waterproofing compound.
3. Seal large indentations with a special compound such as penecryl.
4. Moisten surfaces.
5. Cover with 2 layers of penetron.
6. Do the same work on the ceiling and floor.

It is necessary to apply waterproofing compositions on a well-moistened surface with a wide brush, first vertically, and the second layer horizontally (or vice versa, but in different directions of application), rubbing them well into the bases.

You can see the detailed order of work in the video:

And these and similar compounds work like this:

Basement in the garage - is it good?

Actually, it's not the most the best option- arrange a basement, and even more so a cellar, in a garage. In any case, for the safety of the car - for sure. In any case, the humidity in them will be higher than in the garage itself, which is guaranteed to reduce the life of the car body.

Therefore, the more effective measures you can take to reduce moisture in the basement and cellar under the garage, the better.

This includes ventilation, dehumidifiers, and maximum waterproofing of walls and floors, both outside and inside. And it will be most effective, in addition to deep penetration waterproofing compounds, to cover these rooms from the inside with a spraying composition such as liquid rubber.

It exists up to a dozen types: one and two-component, application is quite expensive, because special equipment is required, but better waterproofing does not exist today.

Dear readers, if you still have questions, ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)

Drying basements is a set of one-time or preventive measures aimed at normalizing the humidity of structures and air. The specific method is selected based on the volume and functional purpose: with an area within 2 m2, it is enough to improve air exchange with a candle; if necessary, dry large storage facilities, portable stoves and air dryers are used. These works are combined with antifungal surface treatment.

When is drying required?

The need for normalization of humidity arises:

1. In case of a one-time flooding of the cellar in the spring or when the GWL is raised due to excessive precipitation. After the decline of water without taking measures inside the underground, dampness remains for a long time, sufficient for normal conditions the system is failing.

2. If necessary, accelerate the removal of building moisture. Basements of a private house, pits under garages and utility rooms lay and isolate summer time or early autumn, but there are exceptions. It is not recommended to delay finishing; drying walls and floors helps to avoid technology violations.

3. In case of violation of the channels or insulating layers of the cellar. Clogging of holes, lack of draft in hot or rainy times, infiltration of ground moisture or other deviations in temperature and humidity conditions lead to excessive dampness and condensation, which is unacceptable.

4. When carrying out annual preventive measures. Most of the disinfectant solutions used dry naturally, but if you need to quickly get a dry basement before loading the crop or adverse weather conditions the intensity of air exchange is increased.

Overview of Popular Methods

To rid the cellar of a private house or a pit under a garage of dampness, one of the following methods is used:

• Absorption of excess moisture by absorbent materials.
• Increased air exchange with a lit candle or dry alcohol.
• Drying with a brazier or portable oven.
• The use of electric dehumidifiers: heat guns or specialized units operating on the principle of air cooling.
• Installation of forced fans.

Drying is started after eliminating the causes of the appearance excess moisture or for the purpose of prevention, to simplify work and remove dampness in hard-to-reach areas, all removable items and the products themselves are taken out. If there is free time, they first try to dry the basement in a natural way, namely, with enhanced ventilation for 3-5 days. If there are no results, one of the above forced methods is selected.

The preparatory stage is mandatory in any case: the surfaces are inspected for fungus and disinfected with deep penetration compounds, loose Decoration Materials, updated upper layer ground floor (if any), walls and shelving systems are treated with antifungal solutions or re-whitened. In basements, after flooding, which is of a systematic nature, the protection of the floor and walls is enhanced, drainage pipes are laid along the perimeter of such buildings. The draft in the air exchange system is checked last (by bringing a match to the holes), if necessary, additional supply and exhaust pipes are installed or the existing channels are cleaned.

1. Features of drying with hygroscopic materials.

With a slight but constant manifestation of dampness in the cellar and the impossibility of introducing additional ventilation pipes, absorbent substances are used inside to normalize the operating mode. Dry damp basement allow scattered on the floor and periodically changed sawdust, lowered boxes with charcoal, fluffy lime, calcium chloride laid out in the corners and pieces of cardboard. The advantages of the method include simplicity and the possibility of updating sorbents (some types of materials will come out quickly to dry under the sun and lower again), the disadvantages are the impracticality, if necessary, processing large areas. Cardboard and charcoal are used without restrictions, lumps of lime or calcium chloride are not placed next to the products.

2. Strengthening traction with a candle or dry fuel.

The easiest way to change the thermostatic equilibrium is to bring a lighted paper to the outlet of the hood. In rooms with standard two pipes, forced drying is organized by placing candles under them in a container protected from fire. In addition to the supply opening, the volume of incoming air is increased by opening the entrance hatch or door. A burning candle is placed on the floor, and the exhaust pipe itself is lengthened with a temporary nozzle.

This method is proven and safe, it allows you to dry the cellar relatively quickly (combustion is maintained until results are achieved, usually 2-3 days) of any volume: from pits in garages to individual storages. Burners or tablets of dry alcohol can be used (10-15 pcs are used for a basement of a standard volume, in addition to high-quality drying, its vapors kill fungal spores). Limitations to be considered include the need to support combustion and the risk of increasing condensate inside when humid, hot air is sucked in in summer, followed by cooling on the walls, control of the process is mandatory.

3. Pros and cons of using heat guns and electric dehumidifiers.

This method is valued for its safety: a heater or heat generator is placed in the center of the cellar or in any desired place, allowing you to quickly remove excess moisture from the structures. In rooms with a concrete screed, they are installed directly on the floor, with soil floors - on a specially prepared base. The power of the device is selected on the basis of volumes and humidity: an oil, infrared or converter heater is enough for drying; heat guns for 3-5 kW. In particular difficult cases forced fans are introduced into the circuit.

A separate group includes dehumidifiers operating on the principle of freon-based cooling. Driving a humid environment through themselves, they discharge condensate into special receiving containers and containers; to start the devices, it is enough to connect to the network and periodically pour out water. It is recommended to buy such dehumidifiers for the basement when servicing the underground with large area, including agricultural vegetable stores and industrial facilities. In addition to collecting condensate, they filter the circulating air and control its temperature; the most advanced models function both for cooling and heating. Their scope is not limited to the cellar, if necessary, they are transferred to any premises.

Heat guns work quickly and provide high-quality and deep drying of structures. They require installation on a stable and dry base, but it is not difficult to organize such conditions. The disadvantages include the need for electricity, in addition to significant consumption, this option is not suitable for remote storage facilities that are not connected to the network.

4. Heating with a brazier.

The bottom line is the location on the floor of a brazier, a potbelly stove, a kerosene burner or an ordinary tin bucket with sawdust or charcoal burning inside. The resulting heat enhances the circulation processes and expels moisture from the surfaces, the achieved effect lasts for a long time. Before starting, the room is ventilated naturally for 3-4 days, the brazier and its analogues are placed for a few more hours, in especially difficult cases, the fire is maintained for 1-2 days. This method allows you to dry and fumigate the structures with smoke, thereby increasing the protection against mold.

A brazier or stove requires caution when lowering down, they weigh a lot, ropes are required. Dry sawdust is used for kindling, for support long burning– coke or charcoal, but in general there are no loading restrictions ordinary firewood. You should be prepared for the formation of a large amount of smoke, this method is better suited for individual storage facilities, and not underground private houses. Self-ignition of a brazier or potbelly stove is prohibited, an insurer remains at the top.

5. Forced fans.

When carrying out annual prevention, it is easiest to dry the cellar by increasing the volume of circulating air. There are no restrictions, the desired effect is provided by both portable fans installed on the basement floor and compact deflectors built into exhaust pipes, the latter can be temporary or permanent. The advantages include simplicity, the disadvantages - dependence on electricity. Efficiency depends on the elimination of the causes of moisture penetration, in case of violation of the waterproofing layer or constant underfloor heating, the underground needs more serious protective measures, air exchange optimization is not enough.

Most of the happy owners of garages in the autumn-spring time are faced with such an unpleasant problem as the flooding of the cellar. But dampness in the basement appears as a result of mistakes made during the construction of the garage, because it is very difficult to calculate and foresee everything possible options its occurrence in the basement. After all, they may suddenly appear nearby ground water or neighbors equip any water drains. Consider some basic options for how to dry the cellar in the garage, and arranging effective waterproofing of the room.

It is best to use poured concrete for basement construction or concrete plates, which are good for both floors and walls, and you should not use porous materials such as foam block, expanded clay block or brick. They highly absorb moisture, which will lead to unnecessary problems in the future. Therefore, how to prevent the occurrence of dampness in the garage and in the basement, in particular, should be considered already at the design stage.

Choosing which design is better, prefabricated or monolithic, you need to build on your capabilities. A monolithic basement is more laborious, but its service life is much longer, working with concrete blocks moves much faster and this is also a good option. To prevent the appearance of groundwater in the pit, construction works best spent in summer season

Basement drying methods

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to foresee everything to the smallest detail when building a basement. It seems that the place was carefully chosen, and great attention was paid to waterproofing, the presence of groundwater was taken into account, and the basement is still wet. Let's take a closer look at all the basic ways to dry the cellar in the garage.

But first you need to prepare the room itself: free the basement from all the items in it, including cans, shelves, racks, boxes, and so on. We carefully sweep out all the garbage and leave it to air dry naturally for a couple of days, so it is advisable to do this in dry, hot weather.

Drying with a roaster. For this simple method, we need an old waste metal bucket. The bucket is firmly fixed in the center of the wet room. Fire bred in this bucket and maintained long time required to dry the basement, heats the air, which forms a forced additional circulation of hot air, and at the same time damp leaves the basement. A positive effect is also created due to the property of smoke to destroy not only mold and fungus on the walls and floor, but also helps to get rid of various harmful insects and rodents.

Drying with a candle. This method of drying the basement is also very simple, but no less effective. But for him it is necessary to build a ventilation pipe almost to the floor, securely fix it in some kind of metal container and place it under it. Then, right in the pipe, you need to light the paper so that the initial thrust appears. Further, this thrust will be kept by burning a candle under the ventilation. Continue this process for at least three days, and in fact, until the room is completely dry, it is only necessary to monitor the burning of the candle, replacing the burned-out one with a new one in time. It is also possible to replace the candle with dry fuel tablets, which will be no less effective.

Ways to waterproof a damp room

To enhance the defensive ability building material from moisture even at the construction stage, it is necessary to use waterproofing additives that enhance the moisture-proof properties of the building material. But what can be done if moisture has already appeared in the finished garage?

External drainage. The most efficient and cost-effective way to keep moisture out of your basement is to divert groundwater outside the garage or, even better, straight down the drain. But this can only be done in the case of a separate building. In the basement big house, in cooperative garages this method is unprofitable. Of course, it is necessary to provide for the presence of external drainage and it must be completed for another initial stage construction, but if you missed this moment, you can divert water in this way later.

External drainage technology:

• Mark and dig a trench around the outer perimeter of the basement, about 40-50 cm wide, and about half a meter below the level of the cellar floor;
• Every two meters, drainage plastic tubes are inserted into specially prepared wells drilled to the first layer of sand. These pipes, in order to avoid falling sand, are covered metal grating with small cells. When drilling wells, do not deepen them too deep into the sand in order to completely exclude sewage sewage from entering the system;
• All the bottom prepared trench, in order to avoid silting, is covered with a material such as geotextiles. It is necessary to cover not only the bottom, but also the walls of the trench;
• We fill the trench with rubble, you can also use gravel, to a height of forty centimeters, so that the gravel layer is just above the lower base of the basement wall;
• Having completely filled the trench, we carefully close it with geotextile, tightly wrapping the rubble and turning this structure into a drainage pipe located around the entire perimeter of the garage and preventing the ingress and accumulation of groundwater;
• We fill this pipe with the remaining soil, well tamping all the bulk layers.

internal drainage

To solve the problem of a large basement drying out quickly, you need to install an internal drainage system for your basement. How to do it?

Place pipes around the entire perimeter of the room to be dried, which are interconnected, to collect all the water flowing into the cellar. In modern specialized stores, the range of such drainage pipes is very wide: various diameters, various perforations and stiffness. Pipes with a diameter of 110mm are in the greatest demand.

throughout the length drainage pipe special holes are located at the same distance from each other. If you did not carry out internal drainage before completing the floor, then later, when conducting internal drainage, you will have to break the floor, replacing it with a new one.

Internal drainage technology:

• A trench is marked and dug around the entire perimeter of the wet room to a depth of 40-50 centimeters;
• The bottom of this trench is compacted very carefully and a special geoseptic moisture-absorbing material is spread around the entire perimeter;
• The trench is filled up by 15-20 centimeters with crushed stone or gravel;
• Drains are laid on top of the backfill layer, always observing a three-millimeter slope for each meter of the length of the drainage pipe;
• The drainage pipes are completely filled up. It is best to take gravel of medium size, no more than 15 millimeters, in order to avoid clogging the holes with small stones, it is again carefully covered with geotextiles from above;
• The trench is covered with soil or sand, each bulk layer is carefully compacted;
• The lowest point is selected in the basement and a well is arranged there to collect water, which can be made with your own hands from improvised material or, which is much easier, but more expensive, buy a ready-made industrial PVC well. These wells are lightweight and durable, up to three meters high, easy to install and easy to use. But many, due to cost savings, prefer to build such a well on their own from concrete, which increases their amount of work several times;
• In the well it is necessary to install a special drainage pump, which automatically turns on when the float floating in the well reaches a predetermined level. When pumping out water, the float drops to a certain position, and as soon as it reaches it, the pump automatically turns off again. The water pumped out by the pump must be discharged through a hose connected to it, in local sewerage or outside of your area. Some craftsmen, instead of a well, use a barrel of 200-300 liters. But in this case, we must not forget to regularly and constantly ventilate the room.

Injection protection

The most expensive but most effective this moment waterproofing method by injection. This is the latest innovative modern method, but, unfortunately, it requires special equipment and is performed only by professionals, due to which the cost of these works increases several times. Such waterproofing is very effective even when used in brick and foam block rooms.

Injection technology:

• Along the entire perimeter of the room, it is necessary to drill small holes with a diameter of approximately 1.5-4 mm, keeping the distance between them from 20 to 80 centimeters. This distance depends on the thickness bearing walls, composition and density of the soil and other frequently occurring factors;
• Install in drilled holes expanding packers, into which high pressure with the help of a special necessary pump, insulation substances or polymers are introduced.

Of course, such waterproofing can be carried out at any time of the year and day, without breaking the previously built elements of the room: floors, finished cladding, and so on.

Modern polymer waterproofing materials are the most environmentally friendly and durable materials among current building materials, which have the ability to densely and permanently fill all cracks in load-bearing structures.

Penetrating waterproofing

It is also one of the most effective modern ways basement waterproofing. The principle of operation of such waterproofing is the creation of new structural bonds of the compound, as a result of which pores and capillaries are blocked.

This material very quickly, and most importantly, the entire surface of the room is covered with high quality. Avoiding energy-intensive excavation internal walls, all work is instantly carried out indoors, by processing both concrete and brick walls.

Such a mixture is diluted with water and applied to prepared surfaces that must be moistened in advance. Reacting with water on the surface of the walls, this mixture turns into crystals that densely fill the capillaries of porous surfaces.

After full processing and drying basement you can again furnish it with the necessary items, which should first be treated with a special antiseptic acrylic solution or just a solution of copper sulfate, which is also very effective in combating mold and dampness.

Choose the method of getting rid of dampness in the cellar that is most convenient for you.

Increased humidity in the cellar appears on different reasons. First of all, it is necessary to find out why it has increased, take measures to eliminate it, and then bring it back to normal. At the last stage - if necessary, disinfect. In any case, without properly organized ventilation and waterproofing, the problem will appear again and again. Therefore, before drying the cellar, check if the ventilation pipes are clogged, if the waterproofing is damaged.

Prevent dampness

As usual, this “disease” is easier (and cheaper) to prevent than to treat. It is still being decided at the design stage:

Inspecting the floor

Very often in the cellar the floor is made of earth. Often it is the source of excess moisture. Through it, the moisture contained in the soil gets inside. To reduce the humidity in the cellar, you need to level the earthen floor, tamp it down and cover it with a thick plastic wrap. You can use roofing felt, but it breaks more often. Although it seems more durable, it breaks due to less elasticity.

It is not necessary to pour sand or earth on top of the film. Sometimes it's in the basement a large number of water (accidental flooding). Then you simply take out the film, the water goes partly into the ground, partly evaporates through ventilation. After the dampness is gone, you can lay the floor again. If there is earth or sand on top, you will need to poke around in this liquid, extracting a film.

If the floor in the cellar is earthen, it enters through it most of moisture

If, after laying the film, the level of humidity in the cellar has decreased, then you have found the cause. You can leave everything as it is, only periodically change the “flooring”, or you can make a concrete floor with full waterproofing. The choice is yours. To prevent the film from tearing when walked on, knock down wooden shields and throw them on the floor.

Improving waterproofing

The second reason why humidity rises in the basement is an insufficient degree of vapor barrier or waterproofing of the walls. This usually occurs if the cellar is lined with bricks, especially silicate. The material is very hygroscopic and passes water vapor well. They settle in drops on the ceiling and all objects.

The problem can be solved if you make a good external waterproofing: dig out the walls and apply bituminous mastic in two layers. Previously coated with resin, but mastic is more effective and easier to handle.

But excavation is far from always a joy, and it is not always possible to dig out the walls. In this case, you can make an internal waterproofing of the walls of the cellar. For this, there are cement-based impregnations: Pnetron, Kalmatron, Hydrotex, etc. They penetrate to a depth of up to half a meter into the thickness of the material (concrete, brick, etc.) and block the capillaries through which water seeps. Water permeability is greatly reduced. Their only downside is the price. But they are really effective.

All these measures will prevent the appearance of high humidity in the basement. But what to do if there is already moisture, how to dry the cellar? Next, consider ways to reduce humidity.

Preparatory work

All supplies are taken out of the basement, as well as all wooden structures, clean well. On the street, they inspect wood - shelves / boxes / boxes. If they are not affected, and there is no fungus or mold, they are simply laid out in the sun to dry. If there are signs of damage, the wood is impregnated with a solution of copper sulfate (concentration 5-10%, no more).

Whitewashing with lime gives good results - it will also “collect” moisture from the air. Therefore, before draining the basement, it makes sense to whitewash everything. They just don't do it the way they do it. It is necessary to apply a thick layer of lime on the walls. To do this, make a bucket of thick whitewash, add a little diluted copper sulphate. It is an excellent disinfectant, but the concentration should not be higher than 5%, maximum - 10. The resulting thick liquid is poured in half into two containers.

The first half is lowered into the basement, dressed in old clothes, put on glasses, and cover their hands. take paint brush for whitewashing (it looks more like a small broom) and corners are well smeared with it. Then you slurp the liquid with a brush, and spray it on the walls and ceiling. Just dip in thick whitewash and spray on the walls. They are covered with drops, tubercles of lime.

After everything is covered with lime, wait a day until it dries. Repeat everything with the second bucket. As a result, the walls and ceiling are porous and uneven. But condensation rarely hangs on them: lime retains moisture well inside. After the lime dries, you can begin to dry the cellar.

Basement dehumidification with ventilation

Sometimes it happens like this: it was dry in the cellar, and suddenly dampness appeared. One of the reasons - poor ventilation. First of all, check the cleanliness of the ventilation ducts. If necessary, clean. If everything is fine, but the dampness does not go away, then the exhaust pipe is not working properly. This happens when the air in the cellar is colder than outside. Heavy and cold, he himself will not climb the pipe. A paradoxical, at first glance, situation arises: it was cold and damp outside - it was dry in the cellar. It got warmer - drops of moisture hung on the ceiling, walls and objects, a musty smell appeared. In this case, in order to dry the cellar, it is necessary to activate the movement of air. There are several solutions.

Sometimes increased air movement leads to the fact that the humidity in the cellar does not decrease, but increases. This can often be seen in hot weather. The reason is this. Warm air carries with it a significant amount of moisture in the form of vapours. Getting into a cool cellar, the air cools down, and moisture condenses on the coldest surfaces: the ceiling, walls, sometimes on shelves and cans. If you have just such a case, then stop ventilation. Even close the supply pipe and close the lid well, limiting the flow of warm air.

How to dry the cellar in this case? Wait until autumn, and when there is no rain yet, but the temperature is already about + 10 ° C, start ventilation using one of the methods proposed above. Works. If your nights are cold in summer, you can turn on the fan at night and close the ventilation ducts during the day. So gradually you can reduce the humidity in the cellar in the summer.

We heat the cellar

If you need to remove dampness even during warm weather, and ventilation only worsens the situation, you need to heat the air in the basement so that it comes out on its own, taking moisture away (the higher the air temperature, the more vapor it can contain).

To do this, take an old bucket or other metal container of about the same volume. They make a lot of holes in it (you can use an ax) in the bottom and walls. Such a leaky bucket is tied to a cable (attach securely). Coals for barbecue are poured inside (you can burn it yourself), the bucket should be almost full. Coals are kindled and stable combustion is achieved (to accelerate combustion, you can adapt a vacuum cleaner by turning it on for blowing). A bucket of glowing coals is lowered on a cable into the cellar, fixed so that it hangs above the bottom, and the lid is closed.

Periodically, the cellar lid must be opened, letting in an additional portion of oxygen (every 20-30 minutes). You can put a fan on the supply pipe or periodically turn on the same vacuum cleaner. If the coals still go out, they are kindled again.

Attention! It is better not to climb inside, do everything from above. Firstly, the temperature there is high (in a room of about 2 * 3 meters, about 70 ° C), and secondly, smoke and, perhaps, carbon monoxide accumulate inside.

As the coals burned out, they took out the bucket, closed the lid. Do not look inside for three days: smoke and gases will kill the mold and, along with drying, you will disinfect your cellar. Usually one such "firebox" is enough to dry the basement in the house or on the street. Similarly, you can get rid of dampness in the basement under the garage.

Sometimes coke is used instead of charcoal or coal. It gives a higher temperature and “processing” takes longer, but it burns more difficult, requires more oxygen, often forced blowing (adapt the old vacuum cleaner and corrugated hose, but turn it on for blowing). But the temperature rises even higher and dries even more efficiently. But the price of coke is high, even if you don't go broke because of buying a bucket.

Instead of a bucket of burning coal, you can use other heaters:

• a propane burner (lower the burning one on the wire, make sure that it does not light anything and leave it hanging in the middle, as tired, close the valve, open the lid only every other day);
• decent power heat gun (3-5 kW);
• kirogaz;
• lower the potbelly stove into the basement and heat it.

All these methods can be used, but you have to go down into the cellar in order to ignite the kyrogaz or potbelly stove. And this is an unsafe undertaking and do not use this method alone. It is necessary that someone belay you upstairs. Regarding the heat gun: it is also better to lower it by tying it (tying it) with a cable, and not lowering it yourself.

How to dry the basement in the garage is described in the video.

How to dry a cellar without ventilation

If ventilation was not done during construction, it is advisable to arrange it now. At least some: it will be easier to get rid of dampness. Better, of course, two pipes - one for inflow, the second for outflow - as described at the beginning of the article. If the cellar is made separately on the street, it is easier to organize: they broke through the ground and the roof of the cellar, inserted pipes, filled everything with concrete mortar.

It’s more difficult with a garage, but no one here clings to aesthetics. But if the basement is without ventilation under the house, it’s more difficult to make it: it’s better not to break the foundation, and you can’t stretch many pipes through the floor into the room. But even in this case, make at least one pipe. Even if through the lid, bring it to the wall or ceiling, put the supply and exhaust fan. It can be switched on either for supply or exhaust, and in this way to somehow dry the cellar.

With at least such ventilation, you can use any of the methods described above. You can also try to collect more moisture. For this inside lay out hygroscopic materials:

If all these dances with tambourines do not inspire confidence in you (although they work), you can dry the cellar using modern technology. There are such Appliances —household dehumidifiers. They are often placed in pools to get rid of dampness in the room. You will need a medium power model. They cost about 20-30 thousand rubles, they work from a 220 V household network. In the process, they collect moisture from the air into a special container. You will need to periodically drain the water.

One way to dry out a damp basement is to install a household dehumidifier.

Disinfection and fight against fungi and mold

Increased humidity in the cellar leads to the fact that mold, fungi appear on the walls, ceiling shelves different types and flowers, and all this beauty is accompanied by "aromas". In this case, everything that can be taken out of the cellar is taken out and laid out to dry. wooden shelves, boxes, boards, racks, after drying, whiten with lime with the addition of a solution of copper sulphate. Better twice.

In the cellar, you clean off all the growths from the walls and ceiling, whiten with lime and blue vitriol twice (the technology is described at the beginning of the article). Before the main drying, special events can be carried out that will destroy the spores (or neutralize them for a while).

Vapors of lime

In the cellar, put a barrel filled with quicklime. Lime is taken at the rate of 3 kg per 1 cubic meter of volume. In a barrel of lime should be a maximum, a little more than half. Fill everything with water. Don't interfere. Get out quickly and tightly (hermetically) close the lid and that's it ventilation ducts. You can open in two days, ventilate well, then you can go down.

Repeat the treatment after 7-10 days. Vapors of lime should burn out mold and fungi, destroy insects and their larvae. They also cope with the smells of dampness and mustiness very effectively. True, for several days in the cellar it will smell like lime.

Sulfuric (smoke) bomb

Use sulfur flask. They are sold in stores selling seeds or household equipment. Each has instructions. But, in short, you need to act according to the following scheme:

• take out all metal things, if this is not possible, cover them with a layer of lubricant - grease or something similar.
• You set fire to the wick of the sulfur checker, it begins to smolder.
• Get out quickly, close the lid and ventilation ducts hermetically, leave for 5-6 hours.

If the basement is in the house, it is advisable to leave it for the time of processing: a couple of breaths with insufficient tightness and the lungs will need to be put in order for a long time.

Disinfection occurs due to the formation of sulfuric acid. It is obtained by the reaction of sulfuric anhydride and water. Therefore, the mold is more effectively killed with a sulfur checker in wet cellars.

After 5-6 hours (or after the time indicated on the package), open the ventilation ducts and the lid (in that order). Leave open for at least 12 hours. The remaining gases are vented during this time. You can come in.

From the experience of operating such checkers, we can say that they need to be ignited twice as much as the norm. Then everything will really be neutralized.

Mold remover

Sometimes white fluffy growth appears on wood or walls. This is one type of fungus. It can be dealt with by the methods described above, but if only it is present, it can be found on construction market hardness remover polyurethane foam(sold in the same place as the foam). Insert the tube into the mounting gun and apply to places with fungus. It immediately starts to roll over. And then on this place does not appear.

Sprinkling on the floor

If your floor is earthen, lay a thick layer on it. polyethylene film(for what - described above), knock down the wooden bars and throw them on the floor. Scatter pieces of slaked lime under them. And they will collect moisture and create “bad” conditions for fungi.

How to dry out a basement after a flood

If the flooding was accidental, you need to pump out water by any accessible way, and then proceed according to the standard scheme:

• Take out everything you can from their cellar.
• Leave all the lid and vents open for a while.
• When more or less dry, remove debris, fungi, mold from the walls and floor.
• Whitewash with lime.
• Dry one of the ways.

If the flooding is periodic - in the spring, for example, you will have to do a full-fledged drainage system, and this is a separate conversation.

All the methods described above on how to dry the cellar are mostly based on practical experience. They are used everywhere and very often. In one case, one method works, in the other, another. Your task is to find the most effective for your situation.