How to dry the cellar: get rid of dampness, condensation, mold. A fungus or mold in the cellar, similar to cotton wool: how to get rid of it forever and clean the room If the basement is damp, what to do

Cellar owners often complain about the humidity in it. Usually this problem is associated with violations made during construction. How to reduce the humidity in the cellar is a question that worries many Russians who store their vegetables in cellars and cellars.

In basements and cellars, excessive moisture often appears. If time does not begin to take measures to eliminate it, then a fungus will appear, and then mold.

For obvious reasons, moisture and dampness are unacceptable in cellars and cellars. In a room with moist air, mold and fungus appear. It is impossible to store vegetables in such a basement, and if a wet room is located in the basement, then this can adversely affect the integrity of the entire building.

One of the causes of humidity and dampness is moisture that enters the room through the walls and then accumulates on the floor. In the process of its evaporation, the humidity of the air increases many times over.

If the cellar or basement is located in a private house, the cause of dampness may be insufficient insulation of the building. At low temperatures, water penetrates through the joints in the walls of the house into the basement.

Groundwater may also be the cause. This is possible with poor waterproofing of the floor.

Moisture removal methods

You can reduce the humidity in the basement different ways. But first, check the condition of the basement waterproofing. If it does not cope with the task, then it must be redone. This is often not the cheapest option.

The most inexpensive way in which the moisture in the cellar can be removed is as follows:

• purchase polyethylene film, you can use the old one, the main thing is that it be whole. You will also need a shovel, trowel and clay. If the floor of your cellar is clay, then use it;
• remove a 5 cm layer of clay floor, level and tamp the resulting surface. On top of it, carefully lay two layers of polyethylene. Pour a clay layer on it and carefully tamp it down as well. This must be done carefully so that the film layer does not move. The clay will begin to dry out and the air in the cellar will become drier. Instead of a clay floor, you can make it out of concrete.

Back to index

Additional Causes of Humidity

1. Often moisture in the cellars appears during the snowmelt season and after precipitation. Pour a layer of sand at the bottom of the cellar, and 10 cm of fine gravel on top. The dampness should be gone. If this does not happen within a year, then make the gravel layer thicker by another 10 cm. The ground water will sink to a lower level, and from there it will no longer be able to rise to the level of the basement or cellar floor.
2. The humidity in the basement is significantly affected by the condensate that appears on the walls. You can fight it with the help of a special waterproofing plaster. Plaster the walls of the basement with it - and they will begin to breathe. Condensation will disappear along with dampness. Ready-made waterproofing mixture is sold in stores. You can cook it yourself. Add a waterproofing additive to dry plaster.
3. Remove fungus and mold from the walls with a special solution and apply plaster to the wall.
4. Moisture in the cellars appears where thin and cold floors are made in them. Make a double floor, in the middle of which lay a layer of roofing material. The humidity in the air will decrease.
5. You can fight moisture in the basement with the help of potassium chloride, which quickly absorbs excess moisture. Pour the powder of this substance into jars and place it in the corners of the cellar. This method works well if you have a small cellar.

Back to index

What to do if nothing helps

If all these simple ways cannot reduce the humidity in the cellar, then additional waterproofing must be created.

1. Start by waterproofing the floor. Cover it with several layers of bitumen. Heat it up with a building hair dryer and lay two layers of roofing material on top. Instead, you can lay waterproofing, it is not exposed to rot and is resistant to mold.
2. At the second stage of waterproofing, build additional walls in half a brick. Between them you mount a waterproofing layer. On top of the cellar, make a concrete screed of 10 cm.

Has moisture started to appear on the floor and walls in the basement? What should be done to make it dry and suitable for storing vegetables?

1. The first thing you need to do is ventilate the basement regularly by opening it every day. Check ventilation.
2. If moisture appears on the walls and floor in the basement in the spring, they must be repaired. On the floor, make a screed of waterproof cement. Carefully inspect the walls, if they have cracks, repair them, and then plaster the walls.
3. If possible, dig out the basement walls from the outside. Repair any cracks you find. cement mortar. Cover the walls with a layer of bitumen or roofing felt, this will enhance the waterproofing of the basement. Can be done around its perimeter clay castle. In the trench around the basement, lay the clay in layers of 20 cm, carefully tamping. Such a lock will completely block the flow of groundwater and rainwater to the basement walls.
4. You can additionally along the outer perimeter of the basement, in a trench dug to the depth of the foundation, lay drainage pipes through which water will be discharged into drain hole or septic.

Is groundwater flooding the basement floor? Dig a hole below the basement floor level. Make a gravel pillow in it, place a container on it with holes drilled in the side walls.

The container must be wrapped with a cloth that passes water well, it will prevent the holes in the container from silting up. Place a float pump in it. Water fills the tank, the float rises and turns on the pump. The water is pumped out, the float drops and the pump turns off. Such a device will allow you to effectively deal with water and humidity in the basement.

WP_Query Object ( => Array ( => 1 => rand) => Array ( => 1 => rand => [m] => [p] => 0 => => => => => 0 => => => => 0 => => => => 0 => 0 => 0 [w] => 0 => => => => => => => => => 0 => = > => [s] => => => => => => => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => Array() => => => 1 => 1 => 1 => 1 => => => 50 => =>) => WP_Tax_Query Object ( => Array () => AND => Array () => Array () => wp_posts => ID ) => WP_Meta_Query Object ( => Array () => => => => => => Array () => Array () =>) => => SELECT SQL_CALC_FOUND_ROWS wp_posts.ID FROM wp_posts WHERE 1=1 AND wp_posts.post_type = "post" AND (wp_posts.post_status = "publish") ORDER BY RAND() LIMIT 0, 1 => Array ( => WP_Post Object ( => 1140 => 2 => 2015-07-05 16:50:04 => 2015-07-05 12:50:04 =>

Incorrect arrangement of basements

• 1 - stagnation zone.
• 3 - cellar floors.

basement under house You can fill up the basement:

• Non-porous soil.
• River sand.
• Construction scrap.
• Clay.
• Expanded clay.
• Rubble.

If there is water in the basement Basement drainage: why and how is it done

1. sand is poured over it.

How to get rid of frogs in the cellar quickly and correctly
a sign of dampness in the cellar Disinfection of the cellar) This can be:

Basement insulation The disadvantages include: How to make an vent in the cellar for correct device ventilation can be seen in the video. It must always be remembered that only in a clean, dry and airtight cellar, the success of disinfection and other preventive measures increases several times. => Prevention in the Basement: Why + When Needed => => publish => open => closed => => profilaktika-v-podvale-176 => => => 2019-04-11 16:34:09 = > 2019-04-11 12:34:09 => => 0 =>?p=1140 => 0 => post => => 8 => raw => index,follow)) => 1 => -1 => => WP_Post Object ( => 1140 => 2 => 2015-07-05 16:50:04 => 2015-07-05 12:50:04 => Overwintering fuchsias in the basement Overwintering fuchsias in the basement, saving in it fresh vegetables and fruits, the cultivation of some plants and animals is great solution for owners of their plots. But many of them who have basements are thinking about how to free them from water before mold and bad smell appear there. Usually basements are often flooded with water during active snowmelt and heavy rains, and high humidity - optimal conditions for the development of mold and fungi, which quickly populate the ceiling and all walls of the room. How to care for and how to disinfect the cellar is invited to get acquainted from this article.

When is cellar backfill required?

Incorrect arrangement of basements creates many problems associated with their flooding. Scheme of the formation of stagnant water zones On the diagram:

• 1 - stagnation zone.
• 2 - soil for backfilling.
• 3 - cellar floors.

Tip: Do not build houses with basements where groundwater is located close to the surface.

Many owners of their homes deliberately do not take into account the recommendations of professionals, and then after a long struggle with the presence ground water they ask themselves the question of how to properly fill the basement, which gives them so much trouble. Filling a cellar in a house correctly is no less difficult than digging it out correctly, especially if the basement is located under the house. In this case, it is necessary to make drainage, choose the right soil composition, for further passing water through it, otherwise moisture will accumulate in the basement, and not go back into the soil. In addition, it is necessary to properly lay the soil composition so that in the future it does not sag and does not push water to the surface. You can fill up the basement:

• Non-porous soil.
• River sand.
• Construction scrap.
• Clay.
• Expanded clay.
• Rubble.

If there is water in the basement all year round, it is better to fill the cellar with layers of bulk materials with your own hands, but before that you need to make drainage (see Basement drainage: why and how it is done). In addition, sometimes the best option basement will be filled with concrete. This will make it possible to get from flooding at home reliable protection, but this method is not only the highest quality for solving the problem, but also its price is the highest. This is due to the rather large volume of the basement under the house, which requires a lot of mixture to work. Drainage, when using concrete, is not necessary.

How to choose the material for backfilling the cellar

To begin work on backfilling the basement, you need to determine how it is better to fill it up? This can be done in several ways:

• When filling the room with water in the spring, and backfilling is required to protect the building from destruction, its lower part can be covered with any soil, and the top with crushed stone.
• If every spring the basement is slightly heated, when the water fills it up to about 30 centimeters, it is better to take fine river sand. At the same time, filling the basement with material can be up to three years. This is due to the fact that it will not work to tamp the sand with high quality, without dismantling the floor, and when flooded, the sand will sag, which will lead to when it will have to be added for several seasons.

Tip: Sand is a great option if the basement doesn't have concrete stitching on the floor, but just a wooden floor.

Only up to the middle of the basement will the sand get wet, if it is properly backfilled, and the ceiling of such a room will always be dry.

• When flooding the cellar every spring to the very ceiling, it will not be possible to fill the basement with sand, in this case the sand will become completely wet. This can eventually lead to the destruction of the ceiling and floor in the house. In addition, most often, the basement will not dry well all year, which will make the owner of the house think about the question of how to get rid of wood lice in the cellar, which are very fond of damp places. To get rid of such flooding, you must:

1. use a mixture consisting of broken construction waste: broken brick, crushed stone, sand;
2. such materials are stacked in layers;
3. construction waste is laid on the first layer;
4. sand is poured over it.

Tip: Here it is very important to make sure that at the very ceiling of the cellar, there is again a layer of broken construction waste.

• When backfilling a basement in an area with a constant presence of stagnant groundwater, it is best to use alternate layers of clay and sand. First, a layer of clay is poured, and last layer must be sand. The most versatile material is considered to be a mixture of river sand and expanded clay, but such basement insulation is quite expensive. When used under the house, a base is created that will not let moisture through.
• The basement, where water accumulates every spring, can, if desired, fall asleep sandy soil, which is taken out during the construction of the foundation of a house at another construction site. But here it is important that the soil is not heaving. In addition, when using it, it is necessary to form drainage system, to drain water from the basement.
• If there is no desire in the future to pour constantly settling bulk material, you should first fill in and carefully compact a layer of sand, lay a layer of gravel on top so that it is as close as possible to the surface of the basement. The compaction of the layers, if possible, is best done using a vibrating plate. Concrete is poured through the pipe with the last layer. With this method of recycling the basement, you will need to make several passes in order to pour as much concrete as possible. After the concrete hardens, there will be no problems with backfilling the basement.

How to protect the basement from frogs and rodents

After completion of almost all work on suburban area at the end of September, summer residents face new challenges: how to protect the cellar from rodents and other unpleasant inhabitants, how to disinfect the room so that the grown crop can be preserved longer. This includes not only preventive treatment potatoes and other root crops with fungicides before storing them, but also questions about how to plaster the cellar, how to dry it properly. It is better to carry out such events in advance, starting as early as August, otherwise the harvested crop will overwinter with rodents and frogs. Frogs cannot create a threat to tuber and root crops, but few people will be happy when they meet them in the dark, in a confined space (read How to get rid of frogs in the cellar quickly and correctly).
Frogs in the cellar The presence of frogs is the first sign of dampness in the cellar, which indicates the need for thorough drying in the sun of all shelves, drawers and other containers. In addition, drying in the sun helps prevent the development of fungi and mold.

Tip: If the cellar is periodically flooded in the spring, it is worth starting the fight against frogs by cementing the floors and plastering the walls. The presence of cracks is the entrance for frogs. After removing dampness and cracks, the need for poisoning with pesticides will go away. In this case, it is enough to open the cellar for a day, and the frogs will get out on their own.

A little more serious is the fight against rodents, they spoil everything that is stored in the cellar. During the drying of the room, when all its contents are lifted up, disinfection should be carried out. (read more Cellar disinfection) It can be:

• Sulfur burning: 100 grams of checker is designed for 10 square meters cellars.
• Use more modern protectants.
• Unfolding poisoned bait, but you need to make sure that cats do not climb into the cellar.
• All dead rodents after processing the premises must be collected and removed.

How to insulate a basement with styrofoam

In order not to ask yourself why the cellar is sweating, why dampness accumulates in it, you need to properly insulate it. The simplest and enough effective way, which is easily embodied independently by all owners, is to insulate with foam. External insulation is considered to be of better quality and more reliable. The photo shows the external insulation of the basement under the house with foam. Basement insulation With this method, the material is fixed from the outside, which prevents the walls from freezing. At internal insulation Condensation will form at the joints of the insulation material and walls, which can ruin the entire coating. Therefore, it becomes necessary to make a more thorough waterproofing of the entire plane of the wall. In addition, the insulation material itself must be moisture resistant. For these purposes, an excellent option would be to use foam. The advantage of the material is:

• Light weight, which reduces the load on the foundation and walls.
• Low cost compared to other materials, which is especially important when insulating a basement that has large area, and, hence, the increased consumption of foam.
• Does not change its characteristics under the influence of moisture.
• A material thickness of ten centimeters can replace brick wall meter thick.

The disadvantages include:

• With external insulation, the foam plastic heats up and emits a specific unpleasant odor.
• It has a reduced fire resistance, ignites very quickly, and when burned, it emits substances that are not safe for human life.
• Not environmentally friendly.

Tip: Styrofoam can only be used in basements with high fire safety.

Instructions for insulation of the basement with polystyrene foam offers:

• For installation, it is better to take foam 25 density. For tight joining of sheets, it is desirable to have quarters along the edges of the sheets, even with their minimal fastening.
• The first layer must be a waterproofing applied to a previously prepared surface.
• The foam sheets are fixed with an adhesive.
• After lining the entire surface with foam, it is necessary to make a cement screed with a thickness of fifty millimeters from above.

Tip: To increase the strength of the screed, reinforcement is made with a metal mesh with cells of five millimeters, you can use a solution with cement grade M 100. To reduce soil pressure on the insulation, the cement screed must be supported on the walls.

• An additional layer of waterproofing is being made.
• The finished surface is tiled or wall panels, which depends on the purpose of the room.

How to make an vent in the cellar for the correct ventilation device can be seen in the video. It must always be remembered that only in a clean, dry and airtight cellar, the success of disinfection and other preventive measures increases several times. => Prevention in the Basement: Why + When Needed => => publish => open => closed => => profilaktika-v-podvale-176 => => => 2019-04-11 16:34:09 = > 2019-04-11 12:34:09 => => 0 =>?p=1140 => 0 => post => => 8 => raw => index,follow) => 0 => -1 = > 385 => 385 => 0 => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => 1 => => = > => => => => => => => => => => => Array ( => query_vars_hash => query_vars_changed) => Array ( => init_query_flags => parse_tax_query))

The basement under the house can be used both as a cellar for food and as a utility room. However, the humidity in the basement can nullify all plans. The appearance of moisture usually leads to dampness and mold in the room. And the appearance of puddles on the floor completely makes the basement unusable. In addition, mold and puddles are dangerous for the structures of the house itself.

Causes of moisture in the basement

Before you start an uncompromising fight against dampness, you must first find out why it appeared. There are usually two reasons:

1. Penetration of moisture into the basement from the ground.
2. its condensation from the air.

From the soil, moisture penetrates into the basement quite easily. Here, both a capillary penetration path, through microscopic pores in the material itself, and a direct ingress of water through cracks in the foundation are possible. It should be noted that microscopic pores have almost all Construction Materials- concrete, brick and wood.

Direct entry of moisture into the basement through cracks in the foundation is the scourge of many old houses. There is a whole range of problems that the owner of the house will have to solve.

When moisture condenses, water droplets appear on the ceiling and walls. The reason is the temperature difference between the air and the walls, floor and ceiling in the basement. Often, condensation is also complicated by capillary penetration of moisture through the walls. Therefore, it is desirable to approach the solution of the problem in a comprehensive manner.

There is one rule that helps to determine for what reason moisture appeared in the basement.

If water drips from the ceiling and collects on the top of the walls, then the problem is the condensation of water droplets from the vapors in the air.

And if water appears as drops along the bottom of the walls and stands in puddles on the floor, then the problem is in the penetration of groundwater. Methods for solving these problems are slightly different.

Back to index

Moisture condensation on cellar structures

How to remove humidity if it is caused by the temperature difference between the air and basement structures? First of all, you need to understand why the air in the basement suddenly starts to warm up.

Often you can find statements that the cause of condensate in the cellar is warm air, the source of which is the basement. However, the question arises - why does warm air descend into the cellar, because usually only cold air layers move down?

It should be remembered that the proximity to warm layers of air always leads to heating of the underlying cold layers. Thus, even through small gaps in the floor and the door, heat will flow down. The air warms up quickly. For example, to heat 1 m³ of air by 1˚ C, it takes 3000 times less energy than for heating the same amount of water by 1˚.

Heating the air leads to an increase in its specific humidity, since the heated air can contain more water vapor. water vapor in this case can come both from the ground, through the pores in the basement walls, and from above, from the house, through cracks in the cellar door or holes in the ceiling.

And here the solution to the problem depends on the purpose of the basement. The cellar for food is insulated from above, along the ceiling and the door, and the cellar for personal needs from below, along the walls and floor.

The reason is simple - in the cellar for storing food, a stable low temperature is needed, so the room must be protected from heat influx from above. As a result, the difference in air temperatures and basement structures is destroyed, which allows removing moisture from the cellars.

And for utility rooms it is better to create a comfortable temperature, so the best way out is to sheathe the walls with an insulator and insulate the floor. In this case, the basement temperature will rise, but the dew point, that is, the thickness of the partition on which condensation occurs, will be recessed inside the walls. This will help remove moisture from the basement, making it more comfortable for people along the way, bringing its temperature closer to the air temperature in the basement.

Back to index

Basement insulation for food storage

In the first case, you need to start with the thermal insulation of the door. It is best to cover it with sheet foam or polystyrene foam. The thickness of the heat insulator must be at least 5 cm. The blocks or sheets are fastened to the door using a special construction adhesive.

On top of the thermal insulation, the door can be upholstered with leatherette or covered with it waterproofing film, which are now many in hardware stores. In addition, the opening should be pasted rubber seal around the perimeter to avoid heat leakage. The place where the door jamb connects to the floor must be cleaned of chips and debris, and then filled mounting foam. Then, during the day, the door is not touched so that the foam can completely harden. The next day, the foam is trimmed with a knife and covered with plaster.

Ceiling insulation for concrete and wood basement floor carried out in various ways. When concrete floor the following work needs to be done:

1. Lubrication of all joints and floor seams cement mixture(possible addition to the mixture liquid glass).
2. Sheathing or pasting the ceiling with insulation boards (polystyrene, expanded polystyrene).
3. Insulation coating with special plaster.

For a wooden floor, the following work will have to be done:

1. The device on the beams and logs of the subfloor overlap (facing the cellar).
2. Side subfloor lining ground floor vapor barrier film.
3. Laying bulk insulation (expanded clay, slag, sand).

To arrange a draft floor, you have to open it. However, if there is no desire to perform such a large amount of work, you can simply fix the crate on the floor beams from the side of the cellar, put insulation sheets into it, and then cover everything with a vapor barrier film. To do this, you can use 2.5 cm nails, after placing a rubber square on each nail to seal.

Back to index

Basement insulation intended for utility room

Wall cladding in such a basement can be done both with the help of sheet insulation and with the help of sprayed insulation. However, the walls should first be coated with cement milk. This is necessary to close the capillary pores of the material itself. Adding liquid glass to cement will lead to better insulation. Then, sheets of insulation are glued on top or reinforced with crates. Finally, the walls are covered with plaster. For greater decorativeness, you can create false walls by upholstering them with gypsum-fiber sheets (GVL), laying them out with tiles.

Floor insulation is best combined with waterproofing. For that on the floor basement the following works are performed:

1. Laying waterproofing (roofing material with sizing bituminous mastic).
2. Filling a layer of insulation in 5-10 cm (expanded clay, slag, sand).
3. Laying a sand-cement screed 4-7 cm thick over the insulation.

These works can be carried out both on top of compacted soil and on top of an existing concrete pavement.

The importance of the cellar in the economy of each family is known to all. This is exactly the place where everything that is stored for the winter is stored - vegetables, various kinds of conservation. high humidity- this is enemy number 1, since vegetables in such conditions are stored poorly and not for long. The temperature should be constant - from +2 to +4°C.

The location of the cellar can be different: in the house, in the yard, in the garage. Given the close level of groundwater, it is not possible to have a cellar dug in the usual way. In this case, bulk vegetable stores are made.

In any case, water should not have access to the cellar. It often happens that in the spring, the owners suffer from floods. Many have time to remove all the contents of the cellar before they appear.

Dampness occurs when groundwater rises too high. To prevent water from penetrating into the cellar itself, clay should be used to cover the foundation with a layer of 40 cm.

In the basement, the walls are additionally lined with bricks (a gap of up to 8 cm is desirable between the wall and the new masonry). At the very top, you need to leave a hole that will connect the air in the basement with the air in the gap. Then it will serve as an element of ventilation.

The floor also needs to be covered with clay. Then a wooden one is already placed on it. An air gap should remain under the floor, which will subsequently connect with the same gap that was made between the foundation wall and the new masonry.

All these layers must have access to the hood. The chimney must be closed for the summer. This method ensures complete drying of the cellar.

It happens that there is no water as such in the cellar, but there are droplets of it on the ceiling, and dampness is felt. This can only mean that the ventilation is not arranged correctly.

Cellar ventilation

If we talk about the cellar, which is not located in the house, but on the street, then a slightly different ventilation system is required here. In opposite corners of this room, two steel pipe. One to enter Fresh air, and the second is needed to extract the fumes.

The pipe, which will serve for the flow of air, should be installed closer to the floor in the cellar at a distance of 20-50 cm from it. On the street, it should peek out of the ground a little. In order to prevent insects and pests from entering the cellar, the pipe opening must be closed with a net.

The exhaust pipe should be installed under the ceiling at a distance of 20-50 cm from it. But above the ground, the pipe should rise an average of 1.5 m. If the cellar is in the garage, then it must be brought out half a meter above the surface. The chimney must be covered with an umbrella. It will protect against the ingress of precipitation into the cellar.

Install dampers on both pipes. In especially cold weather, they will need to be covered so that the cellar does not cool down so quickly. Moreover, the exhaust damper must be closed more tightly.

The street part of the pipe does not hurt to insulate. This will reduce the formation of frost and frost. But in severe frosts, it is still worth additionally covering vegetables.

The pipe may become clogged with frost, it must be completely cleaned of it. Condensation may accumulate in it. A container placed under the pipe will protect from excess moisture on the floor. Don't forget to empty the water from the container.

cellar ventilation summer time

The main task in the summer is to dry the cellar. The air temperature outside is much higher than that in the cellar, so its penetration into the room is impossible. In this case, the method of forced ventilation operates. You can install a fan near the hood for a while. This method is quite effective, but expensive.

If condensate still collects, then you should think about raising the exhaust pipe higher. This will increase traction and ventilation respectively. If you are sure that ventilation has nothing to do with it, since it is done correctly, and moisture is still present, then you should think about waterproofing. Perhaps a mistake was made here, and moisture penetrates through the ceiling and walls.

The ceiling and walls are usually made of concrete, but sometimes they are laid out of brick. It may not be entirely clear how, but water seeps through the concrete into the cellar. Thanks to those people who came up with materials with which you can fix this.

The consumer is offered such a mixture. It is called the Pinetrate waterproofing system. The composition includes high quality cement with additives, which is diluted with water. It also prevents moisture from seeping in. The main thing is to apply it with a layer of no more than 1 mm. Can be applied to damp walls and ceilings.

As it turned out in practice, this mixture has a unique effect on concrete. It seems to merge with it, filling all the microcracks with nanocrystals and becoming one with it. This closes the access to moisture in the cellar.

After application, Pinerate is left for several days until the crystals completely fill the concrete. After that, the mixture layer can be removed. After a while, the walls will dry out. This method is not difficult, so you can use it yourself. The production of this drug is established in Belarus, so it is also affordable at a price.

Many homeowners have underground storage spaces various items and agricultural products, which quickly deteriorate in a humid environment. However, if there is a very damp basement below - what to do in this case?

First of all, the causes of this phenomenon must be determined, because next steps will depend on them.

First, I would like to consider simple recommendations that help get rid of this negative effect with low humidity. In other cases, it will be necessary to carry out a series complex work on the qualitative organization of the main systems.

• One of the simplest ways is to install containers filled with white moss powder.. This adsorbent will absorb moisture from the room air.
• If dampness has led to the appearance of mold in many places, then it is better to treat with hydrochloric acid, but this will require release inner space from products. In the process of work, a weak solution is used, with which the walls are washed.
• Also, damp walls in the basement can be drained using ceramic bricks heated to a high temperature. As it cools, the material will begin to absorb excess moisture.

Addition!
You can also get rid of dampness with the help of slaked lime by placing a wooden or metal container with a small amount of substance in the corner.
Gradually, the air will dry out.

Technological methods

These include the device systems, the creation of which requires certain knowledge and skills, but with the proper approach, the work can be done by hand. Knowing the basics installation work, you can correctly organize the above structures in the basement.

Waterproofing device

The formation of a barrier against moisture from the outside of the underground room is important point, since in the presence of closely spaced groundwater it will not be possible to eliminate dampness in other ways.

There are a lot of materials to create waterproofing, but in this case we will talk about bituminous mastic, which belongs to coating analogues.

1. Initially, special fillets are made at the intersections of the planes, due to which there will be no mating between the surfaces located at the corners.
2. With the use of fine-grained composition on cement base various cavities are overwritten, otherwise small bubbles may remain after applying the mastic.
3. Further, the remains of construction debris, dust and dirt are removed from the lower base. If the concrete is excessively wet, then it dries out, then it will be possible to avoid violations of the waterproofing layer.
4. For high-quality adhesion to the surface, the lower part is primed. The process uses specific grades of bitumen with solvents that can evaporate quickly (for example, with kerosene or gasoline).
5. After the preliminary layer of the primer has dried, the mastic is applied directly to the surface. Work is carried out using a brush, spatula or conventional roller.
6. In the areas of adjunctions to the walls, reinforcement is made with fiberglass materials, which are placed in the starting layer of processing. This is necessary to protect against cracks and other defects.

Note!
Application of bituminous mastic is carried out in 2-4 layers, but it all depends on the operating conditions of the basement and external factors(groundwater occurrence, atmospheric precipitation, and so on).

Creation of ventilation

So, if there is strong dampness in the basement - what else to do? Now you need to properly organize another system, without which even when humidity can be maintained, because air flows must move correctly.

Moreover, since the forced system needs additional energy resources and costs.

1. The diameter of the pipes is pre-selected after simple mathematical calculations. An opening of approximately 26 square centimeters is required per meter of area.
2. Then the exhaust pipe is mounted, top part which is displayed on the roof. Most often, it is located with a fireplace and stove smoke channel, since in this case the air draft improves.
3. The supply air duct is installed in the opposite corner of the room, while it must be at least 50 cm from the floor. It is also displayed on the roof, but rises to a lower height.
4. At the last stage, testing is carried out, for which an ordinary match is lit. In the case of normal air intake, it will burn evenly. If a trembling flame is observed, then you will have to shorten the supply channel and adjust the height of the hood.

Structure of forced air exchange for comparison.