Khasanzyanova Aisylu Gera Summary of the myth Gera Ludovisi. Sculpture, 5...
Many cottage owners often think about buying drainage for their site, but when they find out the price of such a system, they start looking for some more budget options. And this problem is quite relevant today, because it is not always reasonable to use expensive devices when there are undeservedly forgotten ancient methods of constructing a drainage system. For example, you can build drainage from tires with your own hands. But at the same time, it should be understood that in order to implement your plan, you will need more effort, you would have bought a ready-made system for weeks. However, it will take a minimum of money.
In addition, first of all, you also need to know that drainage made from used tires is only suitable in a situation where your site is a decent distance from neighboring properties and wells. Also, this system should be used exclusively for the so-called gray drains. In particular for rain water, drains from baths, showers, washing machines or dishwashers.
Scheme and stages of construction of drainage from auto tires
So, this process is quite simple and not expensive. To build such a drainage, you just need to prepare from 5 to 7 old tires of the same size. First you need to cut off all the rims of these tires in order to be able to clean the drainage in the future. And for outlet pipes, you can take the simplest sewer pipes more than 100 mm in diameter.
After preparing the material, it is important to determine the most suitable place for drainage. Then, at this place, we dig a square-shaped hole with a volume of more than two diameters of the selected tires. It is important to leave space on the sides for backfilling with sand. At the very bottom you need to lay out sand with a thickness of more than 500 mm. We lay out gravel on the sand with a layer of 300 mm.
And after all this, you can proceed to the installation of car tires. The free space that remains between the tires and the ground must be completely covered with sand along with gravel. A PVC pipe is run along the topmost rail. All this is covered with a hatch or a wooden shield.
It is also important to understand that the level of filtration will become weaker over time, therefore it is necessary to use special bacteria for such cases, which will restore this function.
Pros and cons of tire drainage
First of all, I would like to talk about the merits of such a system. In particular, they include:
- very small costs;
- the simplicity of the materials used;
- pretty good result and ease of construction;
- durability of the structure, subject to the correct execution of all stages of work.
But, of course, you can’t do without disadvantages either:
- during merry floods there may be a complete filling of the drainage;
- due to poor tightness, groundwater pollution may occur;
- you need to accurately select the location of such a system;
- after 20 years of use, the tire may decompose.
Thus, the construction of drainage with your own hands from a material such as used car tires is quite suitable for suburban areas with a small workload. To do this, you do not need to have any special skills and do not need to buy expensive materials. All work is done in just 2 days.
Are you going to conduct sewerage in a private house, but have a very limited budget? This is not a reason to deprive yourself of conveniences, is it? Or have you decided to build a septic tank from tires using improvised materials for this purpose? But you doubt yourself and don't know where to start?
We will help you understand this issue in detail - the article discusses the running options for a local treatment plant, for which you can use used car rubber. This material is easy to find in motor transport enterprises, where it is simply written off as unnecessary, or to look for ads from individuals.
The article also provides detailed instructions for the manufacture of a home-made septic tank, starting with calculations and ending with the laying of a sewer pipeline. All actions are accompanied by step-by-step photographs.
To help the novice master, video recommendations have been selected on the arrangement of this type of septic tank with useful tips on making tight connections between pipeline sections from the masters.
How much can you save on a septic tank if you use old tires? One medium-sized concrete ring costs 4,500 rubles. they need at least three. The cost of a worn tire does not exceed 2,000 rubles, and a minimum of three or four is required.
For a hermetic connection of the elements, there are special sealing rubber bands inserted into the inside of the sewer pipe. Information about is discussed in our other article.
For the assembly and construction of sewer pipelines of any degree of complexity, an extensive range of shaped parts is produced. Polymeric products are intended for the construction of lines from similar pipes
A suitable diameter of sewer pipes for laying to an autonomous septic tank is 110 mm. This is a full-fledged sewer that will last a long time.
It is better not to save on pipes and put them with the expectation of a possible increase in the load on the system, otherwise they may need to be replaced in the future. The approximate cost of materials can be found here.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
A video with practical experience in building a septic tank from tires:
.
Do you have a septic tank made from old tires on your property? Please tell us how difficult it was for you to build it and what nuances you had to face. Or did you notice an inconsistency in the instructions given in the article? Please write to us about it in the comments.
» article about well, drainage pit and septic tank from tires. In the article, we will tell and show how old car tires (found for free) easily and effectively replace expensive concrete rings.
A well, a drainage pit and a septic tank made of tires are combined into one article, since the principle of their manufacture is exactly the same. Only some technical details differ. Well, the location is desirable 🙂
The upper aquifers in large hilly areas are located at a depth of three to eight to nine meters.
Having calculated the required number of car tires (to the maximum), without fail having acquired them (only in this order), we begin to dig.
Tires are pre-treated with non-toxic bituminous varnish. This is done to increase the life of automotive rubber and completely prevent the ingress of harmful substances released during prolonged contact of technical rubber with water (especially hard, which often happens at shallow depths).
In the case of careful processing of tires with a very dense layer of bitumen, it is possible, by picking up, to link them together with a special rubber antiseptic and water-resistant glue, which will significantly increase the strength of the resulting structure.
When installing each tire on the sides, fill in crushed stone, broken brick - to improve the drainage of the well and prevent silting.
Having dug down to a very wet rock (we make a window twenty centimeters in diameter more, for subsequent backfilling and tamping of the clay “casing”), we quickly go deeper another thirty centimeters, and urgently fall asleep fifty centimeters, previously cleaned crushed granite of medium fraction, to the bottom, and strengthen two bottom tire rings. (It is better to glue them and dry them, if you still decide on this, still at the top).
We lay out the rest of the tires in the same way, each “wrapping” in clay. Above ground level, the well is usually raised seventy centimeters, a roof and doors are made, a mechanism for raising water or its automatic pumping out.
Cover the bottom of the well with rubble, pebbles and a layer of sand. This is a specific return water filter; so the water will be cleaner.
A blind area is made around the well. The simplest is tamping and watering gravel. More difficult - rammed clay (so that rainwater does not seep through). Even more complex is the usual cement blind area.
Scheme of a storage well from tires:
1 - guide stakes; 2 - pebbles, gravel, crushed stone; 3 - sand; 4 - water; 5 - tires; 6 - pump assembly; 7 - rubber band; 8 - twine; 9 - drainage holes of the sidewalls; 10 - bar for pump suspension; 11 - hose; 12- valve in the tire; 13- cover; 14 - electric cable.
To minimize the vibration of the pump, it can be hung on a rubber band.
Features of the absorption well made of tires:
The drain pipe can be inserted between the first and second tires or into a hole cut in the second tire from the top. If the pipe is carried between tires, it is advisable to cut a half-hole in each of them. Several pipes can be run into one well.
To make the well less clogged, it is necessary to have ordinary sedimentation tanks on the sinks, and on the drain hatches in the bath or shower room - a filter grate that protects the drain from debris and leaves. The well is easily dismantled, it is easy to transfer it to any place on the site, you can dig it under the bed and under the path.
Some people think that the soapy water that accumulates in the well is harmful to the garden. On the contrary, for acidic soils, a soapy (alkaline) medium is even useful. But this does not apply to water from under washing powders.
The absorbing well should be closed (so that there is less smell). If you have a drainage hole, or you do not want to look into the well for years, then here is the recipe:
On the top tire, cut pipes or bars of 12-15 millimeters are laid - a support for the cover. The lid is wooden or metal. If it is of sufficient thickness and will not sag under the load, you can put it directly on the tire. Having attached the lid, the well is covered with earth, preferably with a layer of at least 250-300 millimeters. Tires should be tightly pressed against each other.
If you want to look into the well, pump out the masses and so on, then it is worth spending money on a good cover.
Features of a two-chamber septic tank from tires:
The place should not be far from the house and the road. In the first case, we do not have to pull a long pipe from the house to the septic tank, which can simply freeze in the winter, in the second case, the possibility of a specialized machine driving up to the septic tank to remove accumulated sewage. We decided on the place.
Then let's start marking and digging two holes for the old tires. The dimensions of the pits depend on the diameter of the old tires that you have prepared in advance and on the intended depth of the pits. The first hole should be less deep. Here the main part of the silt will settle. In the second pit, from which the liquid will be sucked out, already settled liquid will accumulate.
From the house, under the foundation below the freezing level, we will lay a plastic pipe with a diameter of 100 mm (this diameter is quite enough for the normal operation of the septic tank) leading to the first well through a makeshift slot in the surface of the tire. At a distance of 2/3 from the bottom of the first pit, we will lay a connecting pipe with a second well through the slots in the tires. It is desirable to concrete the bottom of the wells, although a 20 cm clay plug is enough. It is also necessary to build covers for the septic tank wells for safety reasons.
So, a well and a septic tank from tires are made quite simply.
And, most importantly, cheaper than concrete.
With reliability, of course, you can argue. But there's a lot to argue about...
The desire to add urban comfort to country life encourages many to make autonomous sewers on their own from improvised materials. One of the popular makeshift structures is a tire drain pit used to collect and filter wastewater. The device and installation of the structure is very simple, but the efficiency and safety of the system operation is achieved only with strict observance of technological standards.
- Choosing a place for a cesspool
-
- Sewer pipe outlet
The device and principle of operation of the sump
A cesspool is the simplest option for arranging an autonomous sewer. With the advent of highly efficient septic tanks and local treatment systems, the use of drain collectors in private households and cottage villages has decreased. However, among summer residents this method of wastewater disposal remains in demand.
The most budgetary and easy-to-execute local sewage system is based on the use of old tires. In this case, the walls of the drain collector are reinforced with rubber tires, the bottom of the tank is missing.
There are two options for organizing a drain pit: 1 - an absorbing well without a bottom, designed for the processing and disposal of gray effluents and clarified water that has been treated in a septic tank, 2 - a sealed storage tank arranged for collecting mixed or brown waste masses. Both methods are simple and easy to implement.
The basis of the absorbing, or otherwise filtering option is a drainage layer of crushed stone and sand. The stability of the structure is achieved due to the weight of the tires themselves, the earth filling and the accumulated wastewater.
In the upper part of the "tower" of tires, a sewer pipeline is provided. The entire structure is covered with a lid, which prevents the spread of unpleasant odors and clogging of the pit.
The principle of operation of the absorbing pit:
To improve the quality of filtration and accelerate the drainage of effluents, a hollow perforated pipe is installed inside the tire tank.
Part of the wastewater is subjected to double cleaning - suspensions that have not settled to the bottom are filtered out by a drainage pipe and undergo post-treatment in a sand and gravel backfill
The feasibility of a drain collector from tires
When planning the construction of a cesspool from tires, it is necessary to compare the features of the arrangement, the efficiency of the drain collector with the expected operating conditions and "loads" on the sewer system.
The main arguments in favor of a well made of rubber products:
Rubber does not corrode, so the pit will last longer than a structure made of metal barrels. The average service life is 10-12 years.
For the construction of an absorbing well, any car tires with a diameter exceeding 1 meter are suitable. The whole process of building a drain pit from tires will take 1-2 days
"Handicraft" sewage has a number of negative factors that limit its use:
Loss of tightness is the most common cause of failure in the sewer system. Possible solutions to the problem: overhaul of the structure after cleaning or complete dismantling of the rubber well, followed by the construction of a trench from new tires.
The accumulated sludge interferes with the normal drainage of wastewater, so the collector must be cleaned regularly. The cleaning process is very time consuming due to the unevenness of the tank walls
It is advisable to build an absorbing well from tires under the following conditions:
- the volume of the waste liquid does not exceed 1 m3/day;
- the groundwater level on the site is at a depth of 2 m;
- it is preferable to equip a cesspool without a bottom on light, well-drained soils (sand, sandy loam), on heavy substrates (clay), the slope water stagnates.
The construction of a pit is advisable for a summer cottage, a sauna or a bath for seasonal use.
Choosing a place for a cesspool
When building a drain pit, one should be guided by the standards set forth in SanPiN 42-128-4690-88. The document clearly defines the permissible boundaries for the placement of the sewer system on the site.
The basic rule when choosing a place is: the distance from a residential building to a waste pit should be at least 15 m. Deviation from the standard is possible in agreement with the local SES
Additional, but no less significant, restrictions on the removal of the sewage tank:
The optimal location of the pit is at the bottom of the site in the direction of groundwater. To reduce the likelihood of an unpleasant odor entering the housing, a sewage container is built on the leeward side, away from the house.
When planning, it is necessary to ensure unhindered access of cleaning equipment to the cesspool.
The standard length of the sewer truck hose is 6 m, while 1.5-2 m will go into the depth of the trench. Modern special equipment is equipped with hoses from 10 m long, but its call and work will cost an order of magnitude more expensive
Tire cesspool construction technology
Below is a step-by-step instruction on how to create a drain pit with a drainage well. The material for the arrangement of the absorbing well is old tires.
Calculation of the volume of the drain tank
The primary task of constructing an autonomous tire cleaning system is to calculate the volume of the drain tank to determine the number and dimensions of the tires used. The volume of the chamber depends on the number of people living in the house.
According to normative data, one adult consumes about 170-200 liters of water per day (for bathing, washing, cooking, etc.). If we take as a condition that the family consists of three people, then the daily volume of effluents will be about 600 liters (0.6 cubic meters).
According to technological rules, sewers of this type must contain three times the daily volume of wastewater. The norm is due to the fact that the period of primary decomposition of organic matter, the splitting of sewage into suspensions of different fractions, is three days
This means that the resulting value (0.6 cubic meters) is multiplied by three. In total, the tank capacity should be 1.8 cubic meters. However, for the accuracy of the calculations, the type of soil should be taken into account. When arranging a cesspool on a porous substrate, the volume of the “rubber” tank can be reduced by 20%. In case of dense soil, increase by 10%.
To count the number of tires, it is necessary to determine the volume of one tire. This is easy to do, knowing the diameter and height of the tire.
The volume of a tire is calculated as the area of its base times its height. In this case, the area of \u200b\u200bthe base is the product of the square of the radius and a constant? (3.14)
Preparation of materials and tools
For the independent construction of an absorbing pit and the supply of communications to it, stock up on tools and materials. Earthworks are carried out using different types of shovels.
Owl shovel. Thanks to the design of the curved scoop, it is convenient to rake up and remove the earth from the ditch. If the metal sheet of the shovel bends, it can be reinforced with additional sides.
Bayonet shovel. It is used at the beginning of digging, so a tool with a standard length handle (1.5 m) is suitable.
"Digger". A shovel-ripper with a long holder, similar in design to a double fork. The tool is designed for loosening hard layers of soil.
For ease of use at depth, the shovel is equipped with a long handle (2.5-3 m). It is advisable to make a cruciform grip on the edge of the handle - it will facilitate the flip of the bayonet
Indicative list of materials:
For installation work you will need: a cutter or a jigsaw, a tape measure, a building level, a garden drill, a ladder, a bucket and a rope.
Sewer pipe outlet
The organization of a local treatment system begins with the arrangement of the outlet. Subsequently, the riser is assembled in the house, the tees and outlet pipes are connected. In the old building, the outlet of the sewer pipeline is carried out through the underground or cellar.
If the new house does not have an outlet channel in advance, then you will have to dismantle the floor and make a hole in the foundation.
Next, a trench is being prepared leading from the house to the cesspool. It is necessary to provide a sufficient slope for the drain - at least 1.5-2 cm per linear meter
The depth of the pipeline at the exit from the house should be at least 60 cm, optimally - 1 m. If in some areas the trench depth is less than 90 cm, then the pipeline must be insulated.
Earthworks - digging a pit
One of the tires is used as a template for marking the boundaries of the pit. The tire must be put in the chosen place and pegs should be set along the perimeter of the circle. In order for the tires to fit freely into the pit in the future, the diameter of the ring must be expanded by 20-40 cm.
At first, it is convenient to dig the earth with a bayonet shovel. A fertile soil layer (the first 50 cm) can be evenly distributed throughout the garden, deeper earthen layers can be used for backfilling.
It is easier to continue digging a deep pit with a shovel with a long handle - the compacted soil is loosened by a "digger", then it is collected with a shovel and loaded into buckets. To descend into the ditch and lift the filled containers to the surface, a ladder is lowered into the working. Working together, the digging process can be accelerated and a primitive lifting mechanism can be built - tie a rope to the buckets.
The pit is further deepened by the thickness of the drainage cushion (20-30 cm). The walls of the pit are freed from the roots of the trees so that as they grow, they do not damage or move the tires
For safety reasons, land work at depth should be carried out with a partner. One person is engaged in digging, and the second helps on the surface and insures against the collapse of the walls of the pit. This requirement is especially relevant when arranging a pit in unstable soils.
Procurement of car tires
Regarding the technology of preparing tires for a cesspool, the opinions of the performers were divided. The first group believes that it is not necessary to do any manipulations with the tires, since the complete or partial removal of the tread will adversely affect the stability of the segments and the tightness of the structure as a whole.
However, the preservation of tire bead impairs the operation of the absorbing pit - the useful volume of the tank is significantly reduced, and waste accumulates very quickly in the formed "pockets". At the same time, it is almost impossible to clean the sludge from the relief walls with high quality - the tank quickly overflows with sewage, and the sewage system fails.
The optimal solution is a partial cut of the rim. On wheels, side ends of 5-7 cm should be left for fixing with adjacent segments
In one tire, you need to cut a hole for connecting a sewer pipe.
Formation of a drainage well
At depth, very often the soil is heavy, clayey, poorly absorbent and permeable to moisture. To increase the suction area of the waste liquid and improve the efficiency of the absorbing trench, one or more drainage channels are installed.
Work progress:
After casing the drainage well, i.e. installation in a drilled shaft of a perforated pipe, a layer of crushed stone and gravel is poured onto the bottom of the pit - the thickness of the filter pad is about 20-30 cm.
A sewer plastic pipe with a diameter of 110 mm can be used as an outlet channel. A more affordable alternative - asbestos-cement pipe
Tire laying and wall sealing
The first tire is placed at the bottom of a kind of mine, passing a drainage pipe through it. Similarly, the second tire is lowered into the pit, and the sides of adjacent wheels are connected in a convenient way.
Having compared and aligned both tires, it is necessary to make through holes in the treads. Pass a metal wire or plastic tie through them, and twist tightly
During the construction of the tower, the external joints are sealed - the joints of the tires are treated with concrete mortar or bituminous mastic. After setting the mixture, you can start backfilling the pit.
Fixing and strengthening the walls of the tank from tires in the ground is carried out in different ways: backfilling with a sand-earth mixture, pouring concrete or filling the space with the remaining tires. Vertically laid tires will immobilize the structure
The end of the last tire should rise slightly above the ground. At the end of the laying of all tires, the walls of the tank are covered from the inside with a waterproofing material. The most affordable option for a hydrobarrier is a suitable sealant.
The final stage of arranging the cesspool
A small embankment is made along the perimeter of the sides of the finishing tire and tamped down - a kind of blind area is obtained that prevents the penetration of rainwater into the trench. The container is closed from above with an insulated hatch.
The ventilation pipe can be brought out through the plastic cover. The length of the outer part of the ventilation duct must be at least 60 cm to ensure normal draft.
The ventilation system of the cesspool solves several problems: the access of oxygen to activate aerobic bacteria and the removal of gaseous products of sewage processing
In order not to impair the thermal and waterproofing properties of the hatch, the sewer hood can be made in another way. It is necessary to cut a hole in the closing cover and install an “L”-shaped ventilation sleeve with an outlet to the outside. These works are carried out before backfilling the pit.
In order to prevent clogging of the ventilation duct, flooding or falling into the pit of small animals, a protective umbrella is installed on the pipe
Video about the tire sewer device
Manufacturing technology of a cesspool trench from tires with main and lateral drainage on the walls:
The device of a homemade drain pit for giving:
The "artisanal" version of the cesspool is simple and affordable in construction. However, when using it, there is a risk that part of the sewage will go into the ground without filtration, since the construction of tires does not guarantee complete tightness. The device of an absorbing trench made of tires is justified only in rare cases.
Given the rare seasonal attendance of the cottage (for example, only for beds or harvesting), there is no need to install expensive cleaning stations or. A sewer system operating without a maximum load will completely manage with a simple pit, the walls of which are assembled from old car tires.
In such a pit, you can dump both water from the shower and sinks, and the contents of home toilets. And construction work does not require any special skills from the owners. The cost of sewerage will be extremely low. After all, the main building material often comes free of charge from friends or neighbors who have replaced the old tires of their car with new ones.
At first glance, such a sewer pit has many advantages:
- she can get by the owners for free;
- the construction takes a maximum of one day;
- tires of any size can be used;
- you can build alone.
However, such a structure also has serious shortcomings, such as:
- short service life (on average up to 10 years);
- poor tightness of sections (in fact, its absence);
- the presence of an unpleasant odor;
- poor performance;
- inexpediency of repair or dismantling.
In addition, a structure of this type is absolutely not suitable for sites with.
The ingress of sewage waste into surface and ground waters is fraught with the spread of infections dangerous to human health.Principle of operation
The pit is actually a sump with the ability to filter the contents into the surrounding soil. Through the gaps in the walls, the liquid gradually goes into the soil, and large organic matter settles to the bottom. Rotting is a mandatory attribute of the pit. 
At the same time, you can not put an equal sign between a classic and a septic tank built from tires! The latter has a much rarer pumping with the involvement of sewage equipment.
If desired, a simple cleaning system can be built from tires. To do this, two pits (wells) are interconnected by overflow pipes. The primary sedimentation tank takes on most of the large organic impurities. In the second chamber there is only partially clarified water, which is quickly absorbed into the soil.
In this case, the decomposition processes will be accelerated and the presence of a sewer odor will partially decrease.How does it work?
A hole for tires is dug only in areas with deep groundwater! The minimum distance from the bottom of the structure to the upper water layer is 100 centimeters. 
The possible risk of contamination of drinking water should also be taken into account. Therefore, the pit is placed taking into account the characteristics of the soil and the distance to or. For sandstones, this is 30 meters, and for clay soils - 20 meters. The construction is separated from residential buildings by at least 5-6 meters.
It is desirable to place the structure on the natural slope of the site, that is, below the level of the water intake. Pipes and the sewer tank itself must be placed below the freezing point of the soil in a particular region! Some resourceful owners enclose both the pipes and the septic tank in a special wood box. This engineering feature prevents deformation in case of possible freezing of the soil.
What materials are suitable?
As mentioned above, any tires can be used. Naturally, these will be already used, rather worn-out products. But wear will not affect the safety of tires in the ground- rubber does not rot and does not react with aggressive environments.
To increase the volume of the structure, it is advisable to choose tires from large vehicles (if possible) - trucks, tractors, buses. Tires for domestic passenger cars have a metal frame that provides additional rigidity.
How to build?
For work, you will need the following tools and materials: 
shovel and bayonet shovel;
- knife for cutting rubber;
- electric jigsaw;
- sewer;
- wire for fastening structural parts;
- cover (hatch) of suitable diameter;
- sand for sprinkling, but you can use ordinary soil;
- tires in the amount of 5-7 pieces (so much will be needed to serve two or three people).
The step by step installation looks like this: 
- Marking is made for both sections of the septic system. To do this, the tire is placed on the ground and the perimeter is marked.
- A common hole is dug with a small margin to ensure free play when the tires are lowered. The bottom of the pit can be covered with sand, clay (additional tightness is provided) or poured with concrete (such a base prevents deformation during soil heaving).
- The details of the structure are being prepared - the upper part of each tire is removed with a jigsaw, which ensures the most even surface of the walls (there will be nothing for sewage to linger on).
- Tires alternately lowered into the pit and tied with wire. Additional tightness can be achieved by lubricating the joints with rubber glue.
- An overflow pipe is installed between the wells (about two-thirds from the bottom of the structure).
- Sewerage is connected to the first well. To do this, a hole is cut in the tire. For connection, a rubber coupling and sealant are used.
- The pit is filled with soil or sand. The backfill is carefully compacted around the perimeter of the structure.
- A cover is installed on top. It can be a polymer hatch, an iron or wooden cover.
- An access platform is being built around in case of a call for vacuum trucks. On this construction work is considered completed.
And to get rid of the unpleasant smell, you need to install a pipe. The closer the sewer drain is to residential buildings, the higher the pipe should be. Much also depends on the prevailing winds in a particular area. It is better to position the structure so that the wind blows the smell away from the house.
Errors made during installation are as follows:
- the slope of the main pipeline is not respected - the waste slowly drains, the pipe becomes clogged;
- the level between the inlet and outlet pipe is not observed - the overflow pipe must be
- below the incoming sewer, between the wells, it is also located at a slope of 20 centimeters;
- the structure is located above the freezing point of the soil - pipes suffer in winter;
- the structure is immersed in groundwater - working containers silt up, often float up, the infection enters the soil.
Construction cost
If the owners did not manage to get tires for free, you can purchase a used set of two pieces of these products at a price of 1,200 rubles. There are also cheaper options.
Construction work is carried out independently or with the involvement of a digger and plumber. The range of prices for earthworks ranges from 240-600 rubles per cubic meter of volume. Plumbing services will cost from 500 rubles (relevant for the Moscow region).
How to operate?
The use of such sewerage is subject to all the basic rules that apply to any sewer systems.
Properly installed sewerage means: 
