Loam drainage system. How to make drainage ⛲ in the area around the house on clay soils with your own hands

Not all owners of suburban allotments are “lucky” with ideal hydrogeological conditions. Often, only in the process of cultivating the land or building, they realize that underground waters lie high, that puddles stand for a long time during the flood period. Don't worry, drainage will solve this problem. Agree, it is much easier to build it than to look for a perfect site.

The drainage system will relieve excess moisture from the soil-vegetative layer, which will ensure the normal growth of cultivated green spaces. It will divert underground water from the foundation in case of contact, protect the basement and viewing hole garage from flooding.

Those who want to arrange drainage garden plot with our own hands or the efforts of a team of landscape workers, we will find detailed answers to all kinds of questions. Our material describes in detail the options for groundwater drainage systems and methods for their construction.

A drainage system that collects and drains excess groundwater is necessary in the following cases:

1. The plot is flat, i.e. there are no conditions for spontaneous movement of water downhill.
2. Groundwater is marked at a level close to the earth's surface.
3. The site is located in a lowland, river valley or in a swampy drained area.
4. The soil-vegetative layer develops on clay soils with low filtration properties.
5. The cottage is built on a slope, not far from its foot, which is why when precipitation falls on the site and around it, water accumulates and stagnates.

Installation of drainage is almost always necessary in areas with clay soils underlying the soil: sandy loam, loam. During the period of heavy rainfall, snowmelt, this type of rock passes water through its thickness too slowly or does not allow it to pass at all.

Water stagnation at the level of soil development is associated with its waterlogging. In a humid environment, the fungus actively multiplies, infections, pests (slugs, snails, etc.) appear, which leads to diseases vegetable crops, rotting roots of bushes, perennial flowers and trees.

Due to stagnant water, the soil-vegetative layer becomes waterlogged, as a result of which plants die in a water-saturated environment, and the appearance of the site deteriorates. The drainage system allows you to remove moisture instantly, preventing its long-term impact on the ground

If you do not solve the problem with waterlogging of the soil, then over time, erosion of the earth may occur. In frosty times, the soil layers containing water will swell, which may damage the foundation, paved paths and other site improvement facilities.

To check if drainage is necessary, you need to find out throughput soil layers in the area. To do this, dig a small hole 60 cm deep and pour water into it to the limit.

If the water is absorbed in a day, then the soil underlying the soil has acceptable filtration properties. In this case, there is no need for drainage. If after two days the water does not leave, it means that clayey rocks lie under the soil-vegetative layer, and there is a risk of waterlogging.

Due to the heaving of water-saturated rocks, the walls of residential structures can crack, as a result of which the building may become unsuitable for permanent residence.

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Owners land plots in a lowland or on a steep slope, they face a problem when water stagnates at the lowest point, when the receiving water can be located higher. In this case, in the lower part of the territory, it is necessary to build a storage well, into which it is necessary to introduce drainage pump. With its help, water is pumped up and discharged into a ditch, ravine or other water receiver.

If it is planned to build an absorption well on the site for the disposal of the collected water, then the work on its construction is carried out in the following sequence:

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Not always nature arranges everything the way we would like. Sometimes these can be significant problems, one of which is the flooding of the land on personal plot after the snow melts heavy rain or it could be geological feature terrain. There can be only one solution here - do-it-yourself drainage of the site, taking into account clay soils.

This is a time-consuming matter, but skillfully made calculations of such a system, taking into account all the features, will make it as efficient as possible and at minimal cost.

First you need to determine the type of soil on the site: if its penetration is high, then drainage may not be required. Everything is different with clay soil. It almost does not let moisture through, and therefore dries for a very long time. The discomfort is obvious - the site is like a swamp: it is impossible to walk, there is dirt everywhere, and there is nothing to think about gardening.

There are two types of drainage according to the device method: superficial and in-depth.

How to drain in a clay area

1. Surface drainage

In this case, it will be necessary to make shallow trenches, after which it will be necessary to install special trays in them and cover them with a net. At first glance, everything is simple. But here you need to know some design nuances. For a small area, you can do without serious calculations: it is enough to imagine a system in in general terms. However, for large areas, you will need a site plan on a scale, with the designation of all buildings and details.

We use a natural slope (possibly using a level) and begin to put on paper a plan for the future system:

The main drainage system is the main canal. Its direction is through the entire area from the highest mark down to the water collection point. On a flat area, this direction is chosen arbitrarily.

Then we design additional gutters and bring them all down to the main canal (the pattern resembles a Christmas tree). We make the distance between each drain about 10 m.

It is possible to make a combined system with the arrangement of fast intermediate catchment points at the ends of each "branch" and at the beginning of the main canal.

It will be more difficult to decide where the water will eventually go. As an example, this could be:

• a ditch on the side of the adjacent road;
• water intake underground well with a pump;
• artificial decorative swamp on the site;
• water tank for household needs.

The drainage device on the site will also come in handy in the future management of the dacha economy: it is very good to use settled water for watering plants during dry periods.

2. Deep drainage

Here you need to dig trenches with a depth of 1-1.3 m and a width of up to 0.4 m. For the arrangement, you will need the following materials:

• special pipes (drains) and trays;
• geotextile;
• crushed stone;
• connecting elements.

And the tool:

• shovels (bayonet, shovel);
• wheelbarrows for the removal of soil and crushed stone;
• level for determining the level;
• saw for cutting pipes.

The scheme of buried drainage is the same as that of the surface. The only difference is that the drainage channels are buried and the site is made even.

After the ditches are covered with rubble, the geofabric, trays and pipes are laid, there is no need to rush to cover the entire structure with earth. Drainage needs to be tested. You need to wait for a shower or do it artificially with a pump, hose and sufficient water pressure. If the flows go through the entire system from start to finish properly, then the test can be considered passed. If water stagnates in any places, then the system needs to be finalized with additional channels.

Additional ditches adjacent to the main canal should be made in parallel at a distance of 4-6 m from each other. The denser the soil, the shorter the interval. From the lower end of the main canal, a trench is dug perpendicularly to drain water to other additional points.

The slope in the in-depth system is made at least 1 cm deep per 1 m of length. Perhaps more, it will depend on the totality of additional stacks: the more there are, the greater the angle of inclination is needed for the lower channel in order for the drainage to be more intense. More precisely, the slope can be controlled using the building level.

Features of the clay area

Clay soils are heavy, dry out slowly, and are quite difficult to process. They don't have enough air. They are colder than other soils, plant growth is difficult on them. After precipitation, a crust forms. In soils that are too heavy, plant roots cannot penetrate deeply. But not everything is so sad, there is a positive side: such soils are much richer than sandy ones.

All features of drainage on such soils are interpreted, first of all, by the rational use of water. In order to successfully engage in crop production on a site located on loamy soils, some additions are needed.

Before arranging the drainage, the soil must be loosened and crushed stone, crushed brick, sand or fine gravel should be added to it. Lay the top layer with black soil. After sanding, the soil becomes suitable for processing. Now there will be no excess moisture at the level of plant roots. And the water that has reached deep into the impenetrable clay will go into the drainage channels.

Excess water for clay area happens not only in spring floods, but also becomes relevant in summer thunderstorms. Even with a little rain, puddles form on clay soil. Therefore, making drainage on suburban area, you need to prepare a storm sewer with volumetric wells and collectors in advance so that water does not accumulate, but passes freely even with a strong flow.

What type of drainage is best

Given the complexity of arranging in-depth drainage, it is cheaper to make surface drainage. However, hidden drains make the landscape of the site not only more plausible, but also more practical.

• If you have to travel around the site with any kind of transport, then collisions with open channels will lead to the fact that over time they will need to be reworked.
• Flat areas facilitate vegetable growing and gardening.
• Hidden drains will make it possible to build additional buildings in the future.

If such intentions are not expected in the future, then open drainage will not become a hindrance, and it can be issued in original style landscape design. The practical side is also obvious: such a system is easier to clean.

As you can see, both types of drainage are good in their own way. Preferences will depend on individual needs, aesthetic considerations and available funds.

The drainage system, if it is designed correctly and built with high quality, will regularly serve for many decades without any adjustments and repairs, will provide complete comfort of life in country house. For more information on how to make the drainage of the site with your own hands, we recommend watching the video.

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Features of clay soils

After buying a plot of land, it is recommended to determine the type of soil. If there are chernozem or sandy soils, then this greatly facilitates the task of avid gardeners and builders busy building a new house. Well, if the soil on the area is clay? In this case, the owner is waiting for a lot of problems. And they will begin with the discomfort that sticky dirt delivers, and end with serious economic damage. So, first of all, the lawn located near the house will suffer. Clay, when dried, will turn into a hard crust and will be difficult to loosen. This will lead to the fact that the grass planted on the lawn will begin to wither and will certainly dry out. Well, if there comes a period of prolonged downpours, then the lawn will turn into a kind of swamp. This will lead to decay of the root system of plants on it.

“> A similar problem is even more aggravated if groundwater passes near the surface of such soil. In this case, the clay retains its moisture almost constantly, drying out only on the hottest days of summer. Wet soil carries a danger in winter period. After all, it leads to freezing of the soil to a great depth, which contributes to the destruction of wet foundations and the destruction of berries and orchards. Anyone who wants to protect their site from such problems should do the drainage of the site with their own hands on clay soils.

Preparatory work

Why should you start the drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soils? First of all, it is necessary to carefully examine the territory. At the same time, it is important to pay attention Special attention For some important points:

• the quality and structure of the soil, that is, the presence and depth of clay layers;
• the presence of a source that increases the degree of moisture, which can be either groundwater or frequent precipitation;
• selection of a suitable type of drainage system for the existing conditions or the adoption of comprehensive measures;
• preparation of a drainage scheme or plan, which reflects the order of the necessary trenches and wells (the scheme should indicate such parameters as the dimensions of all elements of the system, the depth of soil drainage, as well as the relative slope of this structure).

How to determine the quality and structure of the soil? To do this, it is enough to use a permeability test. It is very simple, and its implementation will not cause any special difficulties. It will only be necessary to dig a hole, small in diameter, approximately 60 cm deep, and then fill it with water. The result of this test can be obtained only after a day. If during this time the water is completely absorbed into the soil, then there are no problems with its discharge on the site. You can safely work on it economic activity and build a house without arranging a drainage system. But if the water in the pit lingered at least partially, then in this case a system for removing moisture must be built without fail.

After the stage of preliminary work is completed, it is necessary to proceed with the specific actions that are necessary in order to do the drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soils. However, before you implement your plan, you should carefully study existing species similar systems. This will allow you to complete the project with maximum efficiency.

Types of water drainage systems

How to properly drain on a site with clay soil? To do this, you need to decide on its type. Such drainage systems are classified into surface, deep and reservoir. Sometimes an integrated method is used to improve the efficiency of water drainage from clay areas. It involves the simultaneous use of several drainage schemes at once. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Superficial drainage

Such a water drainage scheme involves the implementation of only small penetrations into the ground. Surface drainage of the site, as a rule, is used in areas with a slight natural slope. From an extensive network of such shallow channels, water is removed almost by gravity.

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How to make drainage on the site, if it is enough to perform a surface scheme? In such cases, trenches are laid along walking paths, around lawns, along the perimeter of the foundations of buildings, near recreational areas, and in other similar places.

The surface drainage scheme of a site on clay soils is, in some cases, an extensive network of drainage trays. At the same time, moisture is removed through plastic or concrete gutters and collected in special wells designed for this purpose. Further, water can either be used for economic purposes, or diverted to a disposal site.

Surface or open site drainage is the cheapest in the device.

deep systems

How to drain a site on clay soil if a large amount of water needs to be drained? In such cases, the construction of a deep system is necessary. This is a network of trenches located at a considerable distance from the soil surface, in which there are outlet pipes that direct moisture to sewage wells.

The deep drainage of the site consists of several main channels. They are dug to a depth of 1.2 m. The width of such channels is 0.5 m. They are directed towards the water collector. However, this is far from Full description schemes of deep drainage of the clay area. To the main canals, a whole network of drainage trays that are auxiliary in their purpose is needed. They can be replaced with small trenches. Such a scheme will allow collecting sludge water from the entire territory.

“> When arranging deep drainage, it is necessary to adhere to one important parameter. This is the allowable distance that is important to maintain between elements called drains. AT normal conditions such a parameter should not exceed eleven meters. But the exact value of the allowable distance is chosen depending on the depth of the trenches and the quality of the soil.

Compared to surface drainage, deep drainage is a more expensive structure. Indeed, to create it, you will need to use special pipes and geotextile fabrics.

Reservoir systems

A similar type of drainage is a type of deep drainage. All elements of the reservoir system are located at a considerable distance from the soil surface.

Such drainage is used if it is necessary to drain water that constantly accumulates around the foundation of the house or other structures located on the site.

How is reservoir drainage performed? For its construction, work is underway to equip an extensive network of ditches located below the level of the heel of the foundation along its base. A layer of rubble is laid out at the bottom of the ditches. It is through them that water is diverted into special perforated pipe channels located along the perimeter of the building. As you can see, such a scheme is quite complex. That is why its dimensions exceed the dimensions of the foundation itself.

Tools

What is needed in order to proceed with the direct implementation of the plan to remove moisture from the site?

To do this, you will need the following working tools:

• shovels for digging trenches;
• building level, which will be needed when forming the required angle of inclination;
• a manual device (wheelbarrow) on which materials will be delivered to the place of work and the earth will be taken out;
• drilling and cutting tool required for processing and cutting plastic pipes;
• twine for marking the system.

Construction material

To equip a drainage system in a clay area, you will need:

• textile fabric, which will be used to filter the water entering the drainage system;
• a certain amount of sand and gravel intended for the pillow device;
• concrete or plastic channels that will ensure the arrangement of surface drainage;
• a set of plastic perforated pipes, the diameter of which is in the range from 100 to 110 mm, necessary for deep drainage;
• elements of finished catchment wells or their components;
• a set that includes connecting elements for pipes.

Organization of the surface system

Open drainage is tray or backfill. But in both cases, such installation is carried out after marking the site for drainage and installation in its lowest part of the water intake well. Further along the perimeter of the working platform, trenches should be dug. Their slope should be approximately thirty degrees and be directed towards the water intake. The drainage depth on the site is 50 cm. The trenches are dug out with a width of 0.5 to 0.6 m and lead to a common ditch, which goes directly to the catchment area.

Folding drainage

At this type drainage after pre-done work, fine sand is used. It is laid out on the bottom of the trenches with a layer of 10 cm and carefully rammed. After that, the ditches are laid with geotextiles and filled with 2/3 large gravel and 1/3 fine. From above, the system is closed with sod.

Tray drainage

When it is arranged, fine gravel is laid out at the bottom of the dug trenches with a ten-centimeter layer. Next, this material is poured with cement and pre-prepared plastic or concrete trays, at the end of which sand traps are fixed.

Such a system is closed with decorative high-strength gratings.

Deep drainage system

If it is necessary to perform drainage of a site with a high level of groundwater, then the algorithm for its organization will consist of the following actions:

1. First of all, it is necessary to mark the site and choose the most suitable place for the water intake. And only after that, ditches are dug on the working site, the depth of which is from 100 to 120 cm, and the width is 0.5 m. Drainage is performed on a site with a slope of 30 degrees.
2. Fall asleep in trenches, and then compact a layer of sand, the thickness of which is 10 cm.
3. Lay pre-prepared geotextiles in ditches so that the material closes their walls and goes out onto the sides.
4. Pour a 15-cm layer of fine gravel on the geofabric.
5. Lay plastic pipes on top of the rubble. They should be perforated down. Further, the pipes are connected by fittings and couplings. Revision wells should be located at the turns of the received drainage mains. They are installed above the ground.
6. After that, the pipes are covered with crushed stone of a fine fraction and closed with the free edges of the geotextile.
7. Further, the trenches are closed with sand and soil.
8. Drainage pipes should be directed to the water intake. Its function can be performed by any Plastic container or a well dug with your own hands, fixed with reinforced concrete rings.

Optional equipment

For more efficient operation of the drainage system, special pumps, manholes and heating cables can be installed. What is their purpose?

So, the drainage of a site with a high level of groundwater will greatly facilitate a pump specially installed for this purpose. After all, if the water collection point is below the place of moisture accumulation, its removal will be complicated. Forced water movement will solve the problem.

The need manholes occurs when the drainage system is silted or clogged with foreign objects.

The use of heating cables will prevent freezing of the drainage system in winter.

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Features of the territory with a predominance of clay soil

Do-it-yourself drainage of a site on clay soils is usually necessary for the reason that such areas are characterized by excessive stagnant water. At the same time, the roots of plants are constantly under the influence of moisture, and the air does not enter there in the required volume. This sooner or later becomes the cause of oxygen starvation, while cultivated plants can no longer develop normally and eventually die. In particular, this phenomenon applies to lawns, which suffer not only from excess moisture, but also due to sufficiently dense turf, because it is not loosened even from time to time and is not subjected to plowing. This leads to the fact that a dense layer located on top prevents the plants from fully saturating with air.

Do-it-yourself site drainage on clay soils should be equipped before you plant a lawn or all kinds of crops. After that, it will be possible to use the site immediately after the winter season comes to an end, which is accompanied by the disappearance of the snow cover.

What parameters of the site must be taken into account when designing

Before the drainage system is equipped, as a rule, a calculation is made and a project of the future system is drawn up. However, if you have to work with a territory whose area is not too large, then it is not at all necessary to make a calculation when designing. At the same time, the main condition is the need to take into account the main parameters of the system for draining water from the territory. Among them, it is necessary to highlight all the data related to drainage, namely: slope, location depth, location according to the plan, step between rows, installation of manholes, as well as the wellhead. The territory of a suburban area is not in all cases flat, for this reason, if there is even a slight slope of the soil surface, then it should certainly be used.

Application of terrain features

Do-it-yourself drainage of the site on clay soils must be equipped taking into account the slope of the soil surface. If we compare an inclined and a flat area, then it should be noted that it will be somewhat easier to work with the first one. Moreover, in this case, when arranging the drainage system, labor costs will be many times reduced. At the same time, it is necessary to carry out work in such a way that indoor and outdoor drainage are successfully combined.

In the latter case, in the process of work, ditches are used that have an open top. Such a system is also called surface. It will be most effective for the outflow of excess water during the warm season, it is at this time that rain falls. a large number of rainfall, causing groundwater levels to rise. This type of drainage is indispensable in the winter. In a number of latitudes in winter, thaws are quite frequent, which are accompanied by frozen soil, which is not able to absorb water, and there is a need to remove liquid from the soil surface. In the cases described, it is absolutely necessary to equip the drainage of the site with your own hands, how to do this - you should certainly be interested.

Description of open and closed types of drainage

If you decide to mount an open type system, then you need to use a special tile, it has a slight slope, which will effectively remove excess moisture. Through such a system, liquid from the roofs of houses and paved areas will flow into a closed drainage system, which acts as a leader. Closed drainage will work as follows: the liquid that comes from the soil surface will flow through underground utilities that have a shape and appearance they look like pipes. Before starting work, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of clay soil, which has a significant weight and high density. This indicates the need for its loosening before starting work. During the installation of drains, you will need to bypass areas that are intended for vehicles.

Installation of a closed drainage system

If you decide to equip the drainage of the site with your own hands, you should definitely know how to do this. Before starting work, it is imperative to determine which type of water intake will be used in this system. In its role, for example, a natural reservoir can act, quite often an alternative solution is used, which involves the withdrawal of water into an artificially equipped ditch. It must be located close to the road. But it may also happen that there are none, while the task can be solved in several ways, each of them can be implemented independently. There are several options for arranging the outflow of fluid. You can equip the reservoir on your own, making it in the form of a pond. At the same time, you should not be afraid that it will eventually begin to resemble a small wetland. In addition, you can dig a ditch yourself. It must be made deep, and located outside the boundaries of its own site. If you decide to use the latter option, then you must first agree with your neighbors.

Alternative stock option

If you intend to do the drainage of the site with your own hands, you should definitely know how to make the system, otherwise it will not cope with its functions, the plants in the territory will die, and the work will have to be done again. The third option for organizing water flow involves digging oversized wells. Their walls must be made vertical, and after filling, the water must be pumped out using a pump. Such manipulations will have to be done from time to time. For units, the pumping mode can be made automatic.

earthworks

Before you make the drainage of the garden plot with your own hands, you first have to dig trenches. It is necessary to arrange them along the perimeter of the suburban area. At the same time, the trenches will have to be given such a depth and width that they should not be more than 1.2 and 0.4 m. After the ditches are prepared, it is necessary to lay pipes in them that are intended to collect water. These ditches, by the way, have the name of the main ditches. Pre-laid pipes must reach the water intake. In order to fill the main channels, it is preferable to use pipes with a diameter of 110 mm for this. The depth of the main pipelines, when compared with the collecting branches of the system, should be somewhat greater. Must be carried out according to the rules of work, when the drainage of the site is arranged with your own hands, advice and guidance must be read before starting work. This is the only way to achieve the desired result.

Laying pipelines

In the work, it is imperative to follow the rules that are prescribed in the regulatory and technical literature. They regulate the need to remove drainage pipelines from the fence. So, the step between the pipeline and the fence should be 0.5 m or more. It should be noted that the pipeline should also be removed from the blind area of ​​​​the main building, stepping back from it during installation of 1 m. The liquid will initially collect in drainage trenches, only then it will flow into the main channels. A whole network of trenches must be created on the territory, the depth and width of which, respectively, must be equal to 1.2 and 0.35 m.

The drainage of the site must necessarily have a certain slope, the master can easily produce a diagram and a device with his own hands. Thus, the trench network must be equipped with a slope that is 5 cm per meter. The channels should not have a large length. If you apply this rule, then the drainage system will work properly. A less impressive slope is not recommended, this is due to the fact that the fluid flow rate will not be as intense as necessary, this will eventually cause stagnation in a certain area. If you have to work on the territory of a clay area, then the drains should be located at a distance of 10 m from each other.

Checking the system for operability

The installation of a drainage system on clay soil after trenches have been dug and pipes have been laid in them does not imply instant closure of the elements. Before you have to check the drainage for performance and efficiency.

The trench network must remain open for some time. For testing, heavy rainfall is the most successful option. If such an opportunity does not appear for a long time, then it is simply necessary to let water from the irrigation hose into the trenches. In this case, you should observe how quickly the flow of water will pass through the system. The correct operation is indicated by the absence of stagnation in all areas, this is the only way to check the drainage of the site with your own hands, the technology and rules must be known to the master, only then everything will work without stagnation. If there is a need, then even at this stage it is necessary to adjust certain parameters that will increase the flow rate.

Solving system functionality problems

If, when checking the system, it was found that it does not work efficiently enough, then pipes of a larger diameter can be installed, in addition, the slope can be increased. In some cases, masters make a system that is equipped with a denser network. You can close the system if the drainage of the site is working properly, especially how to drain the soil - all this is important to know even before the start of work.

The final stage

You can close the system with geotextiles that can pass water. Instead, it is permissible to use volumetric filters that perform well in the drainage of clay soils. The most practical for drainage work are plastic pipes with a diameter of 63 mm, the surface of which must be corrugated. The connection of pipes must be carried out by means of tees.

The cost of arranging drainage

If you decide to do the drainage of the site with your own hands on clay soils, the price professional installation you should definitely be interested. This may help you decide whether to carry out the work yourself or entrust the matter to professionals. So, if you decide to turn to specialists, then the cost of a running meter of surface drainage will cost 1,300 rubles. Whereas the same amount of work, but over deep drainage, will cost 2400 rubles.

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Clay is a serious problem for the gardener

Excess moisture in the soil leads to oxygen starvation of plants. The roots do not receive the required amount of oxygen, which inevitably leads to the death of greenery. This problem affects trees, shrubs and lawn grass. Without effective drainage, not a single plant will survive in a clay area, water will destroy everything.

Land with excess moisture is an ideal incubator for all kinds of slugs and snails. And which gardener needs these pests that feed on garden plantings? Plus, waterlogged soil is a direct threat to the foundation of the house. No waterproofing layer will save the base of the building with constant exposure to water.

Clay itself does not allow moisture to pass through, and if the site is also in a lowland, then the drainage system will have to be done without fail. Otherwise, not only the future harvest, but also the owner of the house runs the risk of drowning in the mud.

How to determine clay soil or not

It is possible to accurately assess the characteristics of the soil only after appropriate surveys, which should be carried out by a professional hydrogeologist. A variant is possible when the clay does not protrude to the surface, but lies in a continuous layer at a shallow depth. The soil seems to be good from above, but literally after half a meter a clay layer begins, which does not want to drain moisture further inland.

Approximately it is possible to determine only the degree of permeability of the earth. To do this, it is enough to dig a hole half a meter deep and pour water into it. If after a couple of days the recess turns out to be dry, then the site can do without additional drainage. Otherwise, it will definitely have to do drainage.

Do-it-yourself drainage of a clay area

There are two main ways to make drainage in a clay area:

1. With the help of a surface drainage system from trays.
2. Through deep drainage with the installation of perforated drain pipes.

The first option will allow you to divert only melt and rainwater. Only a deep system can handle the moisture that is already in the soil.

Wells, trays and pipes can be made of concrete, asbestos cement or iron. But the most practical material is plastic. From cross-linked polyethylene, it is now possible to purchase the entire set of various elements of the storm sewer system, all that remains is to assemble them together.

Advice! Pipes, storm water inlets, wells and storm gutters are best bought from cross-linked polyethylene. It calmly tolerates frosts and does not crack during frosts.

The choice of type of drainage depends on:

• the owner's financial capabilities;
• area and topography of the land plot;
• estimated precipitation volumes;
• soil structures at different depths.

In any case, you first need to prepare a project plan for the drainage system with reference to the area and purchase all the necessary building materials.

What will be needed to build a drainage system

To make the drainage of a site with clay soil from the tools you will need:

1. Shovels for digging pits for wells and trenches for drains.
2. Garden cart.
3. Hacksaw or jigsaw for cutting pipes.
4. Twine-cord for marking.
5. Construction bubble level

And also stock up in advance:

• fine gravel with sand;
• pipes with a diameter of 110 mm with perforation (you can take ordinary sewer pipes and drill holes in them);
• geotextile material for wrapping perforated pipelines;
• pipe fittings;
• gutters, sand traps and storm water inlets (plastic or concrete);
• well structures of factory assembly.

Surface drainage installation

Open drainage on clay soil is easiest to do. If the groundwater is deep enough, then it will be enough to drain adjoining territory. In terms of labor costs and finances, this option is optimal.

The system of collecting and draining water trays for surface drainage is laid with a slope from the house to the lowest point of the site where the septic tank or infiltrator is equipped. From the septic tank, the clarified liquid is discharged into a roadside ditch, a nearby reservoir or a street storm sewer.

The main thing when planning a drainage system is to use the relief of the site with maximum benefit. If it has a slope, then this is just an ideal case. It will be enough to dig ditches along this slope and lay the trays in them at an angle to the lowest point.

Installation of surface drainage on a clay site is carried out in five stages:

1. Digging trenches according to the designed scheme up to half a meter deep.
2. Backfilling at the bottom of the ditches of a sand and gravel cushion with a thickness of 15–20 cm.
3. Laying trays at a slope of 2-5 degrees to the water intake.
4. Covering rain gutters from leaves and debris with metal bars.
5. Installation of an infiltrator with drainage into the soil below a layer of clay or a storage tank with a pump.

After completing all the work, it remains only to check the operability of the storm drain by letting water from the hose into it.

Deep drainage device

The buried drainage system is formed from the main pipeline and perforated pipes connected to it. The main can be made one - in the middle of the site, then the drains are connected to it with a herringbone. Or it is laid along the fence along the border of the estate, and all drainage pipes are connected to this perimeter.

For laying pipelines, trenches 35–40 cm wide and up to one and a half meters deep are needed (depending on the level of groundwater and the freezing point of the soil). At their bottom, a 15-centimeter pillow of sand with crushed stone is made and geotextiles are spread to protect the perforation from clogging.

Then another 10–20 cm of gravel is poured onto the geotextile substrate and drains are laid on it, which are then sprinkled with gravel and covered with geofabric on top. As a result, the perforated drainage pipe should be on all sides in gravel and wrapped around with geotextile.

Important! Perforated pipes without geotextile wrapping on clay lands will quickly clog. Needle-punching geofabric is an obligatory element of deep drainage in a clay area.

When arranging drainage in areas with clay buds, for wrapping pipes, in addition to the usual non-woven fabric, you can use bulk shells made of coconut fiber. Drains with them are sold already ready for installation.

Revision and storage wells can be made from:

• bricks;
• reinforced concrete;
• plastic.

If the pipes for the drainage system are plastic, then it is also better to use all wells and a septic tank from a similar material. It is easier to take care of them later and make repairs if necessary.

Video: drainage work in a difficult area

The combination of a deep and surface drainage system is guaranteed to drain even a wetland. Such drainage of clay soils has been proven over the years of practice. Its installation is simple, and as part of the maintenance, seasonal inspections and flushes are sufficient. But the design of the drainage system is best left to an experienced specialist. There are many nuances and without specialized knowledge it is difficult to correctly calculate the depth, slope, diameter of pipes.

Clay soil on the site is not a gift, especially in spring, when it is flooded with melt water. But even this area can be brought back to normal. In this article, we'll show you how to do it.

• Features of drainage in the area for clay soil;
• How to plan a drainage system;
• How to make a recessed drainage system;
• How to make a surface drainage system.

Why drain on clay soil

Clay soil is reason enough to equip the drainage system the first thing after buying a site. The drainage system project is made on the basis of geological and geodetic studies. FORUMHOUSE participants often carry out such work on their own. The composition of the soil can be studied visually, pulling out a pit with a depth of at least one and a half meters (this is how much average depth soil freezing).

At FORUMHOUSE you can also learn how to . The closer they come to the surface, the worse it is for the site and its owner: if the groundwater level is 0.5 meters lower than the base of the foundation, water must be drained by placing drainage pipes 25-30 cm below the groundwater level. With a high GWL without drainage, the site remains wet almost all year round.

Tamara Nikolaev Architect, member of FORUMHOUSE

First you need to determine the level of groundwater, if it is less than 2.5 m, drainage is necessary.

But in the case of clay soils, groundwater one more misfortune is added: surface waters that accumulate in the low places of the site. Such puddles are the first sign that there is a large layer of clay in the soil in your area, which does not pass water well.

Surface water is not perched. FORUMHOUSE has detailed analysis all live to the owner of the site.

So, a user of our portal with the nickname Brainy faced this problem: after rains and showers in the lower part of his section, puddles stand for weeks, and it seems that they do not soak into the soil, hard as cement, but evaporate.

To assess the scale of the problem will help a simple home test: on the site they dig a hole a little more than half a meter deep and pour 5-7 buckets of water into it. If the water does not go into the ground in a day, on the site, in addition to drainage, you will need storm system, which will lead away the top water.

Water, which is poorly absorbed into clay soil, harms plantings, lawns, and building foundations; in addition, constant dampness attracts mosquitoes. The problem can be exacerbated by the location of the site: if it is in a lowland, all the surrounding waters will flow into your territory.

Therefore, a house on a site with clay soil is protected not only by drainage and storm water, but also by layered clay soil.

Drainage plan

When planning the drainage system, it is necessary to take into account the nearby ditches, pits, etc. - after all, we are not going to build a house in an open field, most likely, there will be a place to drain water. It is also necessary to decide whether we will drain the entire site or divert water from the basement and foundation. Drainage of the entire site, especially a large one, is always a costly and troublesome undertaking, it may make sense to divide the task into several subtasks and first ensure a dry place around the house.

Local, wall drainage for draining the foundation is mounted 1.5-2.5 m from the house, laying the pipes of the building 100 mm below the basement waterproofing level.

The drainage system plan indicates where the trenches go, what their slope is, where they connect to the main line that goes to the water intake well, where they are made.

Drainage is designed from the top down and built from the bottom up.

When drawing up a plan, it should be remembered that with deep drainage it is not allowed to lay pipes where a car and other heavy equipment can drive: the soil in this place will inevitably sink and damage the car. In such places, only drainage by storm sewers is allowed.

Storm sewer consists of shallow ditches without pipes leading to a well that collects water. Plastic trays can be inserted into these shallow trenches and covered with special gratings.

With deep drainage make a system of deep trenches 30-50 cm wide, in which drain pipes are mounted with holes of 1.5-55 mm around the entire circumference. Drains with a diameter of 10 cm are considered the most convenient. Some of them are equipped with shells made of filter materials.

An in-depth drainage system is formed from the main main pipeline and perforated pipes that are connected to it.

The main pipe is made either in the center of the site, and the drains are connected to it with a herringbone, or laid along the perimeter of the site 25-30 cm below the groundwater level.

This is an expensive scheme that is used in most difficult cases when the site until mid-summer resembles a continuous swamp.

Evan

It is necessary to dig from a water intake - a storm drain, a ravine or a storage drainage chamber and up the slope. Drainage is placed in a dry trench.

How to make a deep drainage clay area

Here is one of the popular and proven drainage systems from Tamara Nikolaev.

1. We tamp the bottom of a deep (120 cm) trench.
2. We fall asleep a layer of coarse washed river sand - 10 cm. The layer is leveled in accordance with the slope angle, carefully tamping.
3. Laying drainage pipes. Between themselves, they are fastened with socket or socket connections.

According to building codes, the minimum slope of drainage pipes should be 2 cm per linear meter; in practice, for a good runoff, they make 5-10 cm per linear meter.

If the site has a sufficient natural slope, the depth of the trenches to the well itself remains the same. Pipes of different diameters require different slope depths: the larger the diameter, the smaller the slope. So, the minimum slope for sod with a diameter of 10 cm is 2 cm per linear meter.

Evan Member of FORUMHOUSE

Pipes in a geotextile filter are not laid in clay soil. A silted pipe can be washed out, but a layer of silt on the surface of the geotextile cannot be removed. Pipes in a geotextile filter are laid in sandy gravelly soils without the content of clay particles.

1. For good penetration of moisture into the pipe in the trench, we sprinkle it with permeable materials, such as washed crushed granite or gravel of fraction 20-40.
2. Lay a geotextile sheet. GT is needed to separate the layers, and it must be polypropylene, since polyester quickly decomposes in the ground.
3. We pour a layer of coarse sand.

The thickness of the layers of gravel and sand is from 10 to 30 cm. The denser and more waterproof the clay, the thicker the backfill layer.

1. Falling asleep this cake fertile soil from trenches.

Oss

I did this (soil-clay): we pour sand into the trench, then geotextiles, then 5-10 cm of crushed stone washed from sand of fraction 20-40, then a drainage pipe (we remove the GT from it, it is not needed on it), crushed stone again on top somewhere 20-30 cm, then we close the geotextile and the ground is on top. Everything, the drainage is ready.

To monitor the operation of the drainage and, if necessary, clean the pipes, manholes are made in the system.

evan

Wells at each turn (allowed through one with a high frequency of installation) - the norm of the Guidelines of the Moscow Committee for Architecture, Instruction 48 of November 20, 2000 and many earlier ones. We hide wells under lawn grates and other ways of decorating.

From the pipes, water must flow into a water intake well, which is made at the lowest point in the relief, and accumulate there to a certain level. For its device, they dig a hole 2-3 meters deep; concrete rings set from the bottom.

The water level in the intake well depends on the depth of the drainage pipes and on how the water will be discharged in the future: usually it is either taken for irrigation or dumped into a ditch outside the site.

How to make surface drainage of a clay area

Let's make a reservation: experts consider "surface drainage" an incorrect term, in building codes the term "storm sewer" is used.

The storm sewer system cannot remove water from clay soil, but it does not allow the formation of puddles on its surface - the water will not stagnate, but will immediately cross into the well.

For such a system, ditches are made with a depth of about 80 cm, just like in a buried system - under a slope. The bottom is covered with a layer of sand (10 cm), which is well compacted, and a layer of rubble (about 30 cm). You can go further by pouring layers of concrete and placing plastic trays.

Cause surface water- stagnation of melt and rain water in the uneven terrain and the accumulation of this water in top layer soil. That is, an additional measure should be the pouring of soil into all local depressions, so that the most uniform slope is formed throughout the area for water flow.

Properly executed slope is the best prevention of the appearance of surface water.

Member of FORUMHOUSE da4hik I bought a plot, opened the floor to replace it and saw a small pool there: the strip foundation was completely flooded with water. It had rained for almost ten hours the previous day.

The first thing our user did was dug a hole about 70 cm deep under the floor, which corresponded to the dimensions of the found case from small refrigerator. At the bottom he poured sand and a little rubble. Additional holes were made in the body for better filling. At the bottom of the case, I fixed a siphon from the sink, on which I put a thick rubber pipe with a diameter of about 60 cm, passed it under the foundation and made a trench towards the slope, where at the end of the site from the old owner there was a brick water intake well.

Now, after the rains, all the water leaves from under the foundation. And this drainage system not only removes water from under the house, but also works to partially drain the site. True, now the summer resident has to water more often, but this is a much lesser evil.

Flooding the site with melt or storm water is one of the most unpleasant seasonal phenomena for owners. Heavy and dense clay soils dry out especially badly. Plants planted in such soil lag behind in development due to lack of oxygen. And buildings erected on clay soil are regularly flooded in the spring and begin to collapse from high humidity.

To solve the problem with the removal of excess moisture will help competently arranged system drainage, consisting of special ditches and drains. If the site has a large area, it is necessary to produce preliminary calculations and locate drainage trenches. At the same time, the natural slopes of the landscape are necessarily taken into account, facilitating transportation. drainage water to a nearby body of water or special well.

clay soil

Experts advise, first of all, after acquiring a site, determine the type of soil. The presence of sandy or black earth soils greatly facilitates the task of the builders of a new house or avid gardeners. But clay, as mentioned above, is the biggest enemy of plants and foundations of residential buildings, as well as outbuildings.

Water on such soil lingers for a long time, thereby delivering a lot of problems to the owners of the site, ranging from discomfort (sticky mud accompanies them literally on every square meter) to serious economic damage. If there is a lawn near the house, it will suffer first of all - dried clay is covered with a hard crust that is difficult to loosen. Because of this, the grass begins to wither and dry. And during prolonged downpours rots root system- the lawn turns into a swamp.