Why do you need a pumping station in the house. How to choose a pumping station for home and garden: useful tips

One of the most important problems facing any homeowner is the supply of water for food, hygiene and household needs. It is always considered a great success to have an autonomous source that has the required productivity (debit) and is distinguished by the required water quality. It remains to organize the rise of the required volumes, if necessary, a certain water treatment (filtration and post-treatment), and then distribution to water consumption points with the provision of appropriate pressure for the correct operation of all plumbing fixtures and household appliances.

There are many approaches to solving this issue - for this you can choose the necessary set of modern pumping equipment, storage tanks, automatic control devices. But to independently think over the compatibility of the relevant devices, ensure their required interaction, consistency in work, calculate and assemble a single system that will meet all the requirements - a task of a very high level of complexity. That is why, if the specific characteristics of the source and location of the house allow, many owners prefer to purchase a ready-made solution right away - a pumping station.

In this publication, a number of issues will be considered, one way or another related to the main problem posed in the title - how to choose a pumping station. By the way, it will certainly be interesting to familiarize yourself with the content of the article and some apartment owners - those who, for a number of reasons, have insufficient pressure in the water pipes or are not stable - are able to come to the rescue in such circumstances, providing the required pressure in the system, necessary for the operation of household appliances - instantaneous water heaters, washing machines and dishwashers, showers, etc.

What is a pumping station

So, as mentioned above, the whole range of tasks includes ensuring the intake of water from the source in the required volumes, transporting it to places of water consumption with proper pressure. You can get acquainted in detail with the variety of pumping equipment for external sources, with its device, principles of operation, installation rules, laying lines, insulation, etc., on the pages of our portal, so it makes no sense to return to this topic.

How to provide your own house with water?

A lot of attention is paid to the problems of creating an autonomous water supply system for a country house on the pages of the portal. So, questions are covered in detail,. Special publications will help you decide on or.

There are several ways to solve the issue of water supply directly at the points of water intake:

• The pump turns on directly when it is necessary to supply water, that is, directly - from the source to the consumer. This scheme is one of the simplest in organization, but also the most imperfect. It completely depends on the parameters of the pumping equipment, and most importantly, on the availability of power at the time of water intake.

In addition, when automating such a system, that is, installing a flow sensor, the pump will start whenever any tap is opened - no matter if you need to take a shower, put the laundry on, rinse the plate, or even just take a glass of water. Agree that with such frequent switching on and off, any pumping equipment is unlikely to last a long time.

Such an approach can be fully justified for, for example, watering a garden or for providing water to a very small country house, where the owners come only from time to time.

• The pump pumps water into a storage tank located at the top of the house. Thus, there is always a certain margin that reduces the dependence of the owners on the stability of the electricity supply.

A quite possible, but not without drawbacks, solution is a capacious non-pressure tank

Such a system is easier to automate - you can install a float switch that will control the start and stop of the pump when the desired water level in the tank is reached and as it is consumed.

However, there are serious shortcomings here as well. Firstly, to install a storage tank, it is necessary to provide a lot of space in the upper part of the house. If this falls into the attic (and this happens most often), then you will also have to deal with high-quality thermal insulation of the container. Secondly, such a drive usually has a very impressive size.

And thirdly, the usual gravitational pressure of water from the tank may not be enough for the normal operation of household appliances. And this means that it will be necessary to install another pump - to increase the pressure, as shown in the diagram above. Agree that the installation of two pumps is not entirely and not always convenient, the overall complexity and vulnerability of the entire system increases.

• Finally, the third approach is a pump, surface or pumps water into a membrane-type accumulator (pos. 1).

The optimal solution is a hydrostorage membrane tank

Not only is the required supply of water created - it is also under the right pressure, in such a way as to ensure the functioning of all plumbing and household appliances available in the house. The system is controlled by a pressure switch (in this figure - item 2) - it is designed to ensure that the pump is turned off at the moment when the upper limit of operating pressure is reached in the storage tank. As water is consumed, the pressure decreases, and when it drops to the lower threshold (which is still slightly higher than the pressure required for the correct operation of household appliances), the pump will be turned on again to replenish the spent supply. Thus, the pressure in the membrane tank is constantly maintained in the required operating range.

It is obvious that this scheme is the most convenient to use, optimal in terms of energy efficiency and the life of the pumping equipment. Such a system can be assembled from separate components - a pump, a hydroaccumulator tank, an automation unit with a pressure switch. But very often it makes sense to give preference to a ready-made technological solution to the problem - a special installation in which all the necessary elements of the system are arranged. This type of equipment is called

An approximate diagram of a pumping station is shown in the figure below:

Structurally, the pumping station consists of the following elements:

Water intake from a well or well is provided by a surface pump (pos. 1) of one type or another - the varieties will be mentioned below. An intake sleeve (pipe) (pos. 2) is laid to the water source, at the end of which a strainer (pos. 3) must be installed, which prevents the ingress of solid suspensions of unacceptable size, and a check valve (pos. 4), which prevents water from flowing down when off position of the pump.

The water leaving the pump under pressure passes through another non-return valve (pos. 5) and a splitter (pos. 6). An accumulative membrane tank (pos. 7), a flexible connection (pos. 8) to the barometric switch (pos. 9) are connected to this "cross". The relay monitors the level of pressure in the system, ensuring timely operation to transfer power from the 220 V network (pos. 10) to the pumping unit. The pipe (pos. 11) supplies water with the required pressure to the points of consumption: faucets in the kitchen, in the bathroom, in the washbasin (“a” and “b”), the shower stall (“c”), the toilet flush tank (“g ”), washing machine and dishwasher (“d” and “e”), household tap - for watering, cleaning, car washing, etc. ("w").

Design features of pumping stations

The layout of individual elements may vary between manufacturers and depending on the specific model range. For example, a barometric switch (pressure switch) may not have a flexible connection, but simply be “planted” on a pipe or on a membrane tank. However, the principle scheme will not change significantly from this.

Quite significant differences are possible in the type of the pump itself.

• Very often conventional self-priming type are used. These are reliable and easy-to-install units that do not require complex installation operations. They have a fairly high level of performance, are able to create a good pressure, undemanding to the purity of the water and to airing. The disadvantage is the low height of the rise of water from the well - usually within 6 meters, combined with a fairly high noise level. So for them it is better to provide a separate room.

• Some self-priming pumps are equipped with a built-in ejector - a special device that allows you to significantly increase the depth of water intake from a well or well. up to 10 - 15 meters. True, you have to “pay” for this with even greater noise and a slight decrease in overall efficiency - part of the energy is spent on recirculating water in the ejector loop.
• If the depth of the water in the source is significant, then the only alternative is to use a pumping station with an external ejector.

The looped movement of water, which sharply increases the suction characteristics of the pump, is organized through the intake and additional hoses, lowered into the water and connected by an ejector nozzle.

Such a connection scheme allows you to raise water from considerable depths (up to 40 - 45 meters) and transfer it over considerable distances through pipes from a remote source. The external location of the ejector block reduces the noise of the pumping station. There is, of course, a drawback - such equipment is characterized by high energy consumption due to reduced efficiency.

• For shallow sources, up to 8 - 10 meters, pumping stations with a multistage type unit are perfect. The level of noise generated is very low, so they will not become a source of irritation even when installed in a residential part of the house or in the kitchen. At the same time, both the pressure and the performance of the pump reach very significant values. True, the complexity of the design predetermines a much higher price than conventional ones.

Multistage pumps can be immediately distinguished by the size of the working chamber - it has a pronounced elongated cylindrical shape, since several impellers are located in it.

• Another possible type of pumps installed on pumping stations is vortex. The special design of the working chamber and the shape of the wheel create a turbulent flow of water, which is characterized by a high pressure, however, due to a decrease in the performance of the device (compared to other types). The depth of the fence is small - usually within 6 ÷ 7 meters.

It is advisable to use such pumping stations for small houses with a shallow source - here they will show "in full glory" their efficiency and quiet operation. Another common area of ​​\u200b\u200btheir use is as pumps that increase the pressure in the domestic water supply system, if such a need arises (for example, a weak pressure from the central water supply line).

The illustration below shows a typical layout of a pumping station in a private house.

It is possible to place a pumping station both in the utility room of a residential building, and in a specially allocated room, for example, in the basement or basement floor. For a stationary installation, it is important to pay attention to laying the pipeline from the well to the house (shown by an orange arrow) at a depth below the freezing level of the soil and with its high-quality thermal insulation.

The subtleties of laying water pipes from the well to the house

It is not enough to install pumping equipment correctly - it is extremely important to competently lay water mains from a water source to a residential building. These questions are also reflected on the pages of our portal. A special article is devoted from the well to the building. For the same visitors who live in regions with a cold climate, information about.

Pay attention to a number of letters with arrows shown in the diagram. These are the values ​​\u200b\u200bthat we will need in the future to determine the required parameters of the pumping station - the depth of water intake, the height of the pressure it creates, and the performance of the system.

Choosing a pumping station

The reader has already familiarized himself with some parameters for choosing a pumping station above. In particular, they talked about the type of the pump itself and related factors - noise, efficiency. Now let's look at a few fundamental performance characteristics that must be taken into account when buying pumping equipment.

Maximum water intake depth

The selection of a pumping station for this parameter should be based on the actual characteristics of the water source and its distance from the installation site of the equipment.

The fundamental distance is the distance in height from the water surface in the well to the axis of the pump (shown in the diagram with red arrows and the letter G). It is customary to take the dynamic level of the well as a reference point, that is, the average level with a constant water intake for at least 24 ÷ 48 hours. The static level that water reaches if there was no selection from the well during the last one or two days can give a significant error in the calculations.

The values ​​of the dynamic and static source level must be known to each host. They are determined empirically, by conducting measurements over a sufficiently long period. By the way, the debit of the well (well) largely depends on these indicators, which will also become one of the determining criteria when choosing pumping equipment.

If the water source is located in close proximity, literally a few meters from the pumping station, then this value of G may be quite sufficient. Of course, in order for the pump not to work at the limit of its capabilities, about 10 - 15% of the reserve should be added, especially since the water will also have to overcome the resistance of the check valve. But if a significant horizontal section is also being laid (in the diagram - blue arrows and the letter L), then it should also be taken into account - there will also be losses due to the hydraulic resistance of the pipes.

In the case when a pipe with a diameter of 1 inch is being laid, then we can proceed from the ratio of 1 meter of vertical = 10 meters of horizontal pipe laying. Usually pumping household stations are equipped with a corresponding branch pipe of this diameter. But if a ¾ inch pipe is laid, then it would be more correct to take a ratio of 1: 7. It is unlikely that anyone will think of using pipes of a smaller diameter - this is completely unreasonable.

The material used to manufacture pipes is also important - in steel, the hydraulic resistance is significantly greater than in plastic ones.

To make it easier for the reader, below is a calculator that will help you quickly calculate the required value of the depth of water intake, taking into account the laid pipeline and the required margin.

Staying outside the city, in a country residence, has additional difficulties, since not everywhere there are centralized communications. Residents of the periphery improve the living conditions in a cottage or house so that it does not differ from comfortable urban housing. One of the points of a comfortable life concerns the constant availability of water in sufficient quantities. In this case, special equipment will help - a do-it-yourself pumping station. Due to self-installation, you can save the family budget.

The main number of wells in summer cottages has a depth of up to 20 m - optimal for the installation of automatic equipment. With these parameters, it is not necessary to purchase a deep pump, an automatic control system or an intermediate tank: water flows directly from the well (or well) to the points of analysis. To ensure the correct connection of the pumping station, you need to figure out what it consists of and how it works.

The main functional units of the station are the following equipment:

• , providing the rise of water and its transportation to the house.
• Hydraulic accumulator softening water hammer. It consists of two parts separated by a membrane.
• Electric motor connected to pressure switch and pump.
• Pressure switch that controls its level in the system. If the pressure drops below a certain parameter, it starts the motor, if there is an excess of pressure, it turns it off.
• A manometer is a device for measuring pressure. It is used to make adjustments.
• A water intake system equipped with a check valve (located in a well or well).
• The main line connecting the water intake and the pump.

Using this formula, you can determine the maximum suction depth: the diagram clearly shows what measurements need to be made for this

The most common version of the pumping station is a hydraulic accumulator with a surface pump fixed on top and an assembly including a pressure gauge, pressure switch and dry running protection

As can be seen from the table, the cost of pumping stations can be different. It depends on the power, maximum head, throughput, manufacturer

Before installing pumping equipment, it is necessary to purchase all functional parts according to the parameters of the well and the water supply system.

Self-assembly of a pumping station

At first glance, there are quite a few places for mounting equipment - this is any free corner in the house or outside it. In fact, everything turns out differently. However, only a well-thought-out installation of a pumping station guarantees its full operation, so some conditions must be observed.

Installation conditions:

• proximity to a well or well ensures stable water absorption;
• the room should be warm, dry and ventilated;
• the location should not be cramped, as preventive and repair work will be required;
• the room should hide the noise that pumping equipment makes.

One of the options for installing a pumping station is on a shelf specially attached to the wall. The installation room is a boiler room, boiler room or utility room

It is difficult to meet all the conditions, but it is desirable to adhere to at least some. So, let's look at a few suitable places for installation.

Option # 1 - a room inside the house

A well-insulated boiler room on the territory of the cottage is an ideal area for installation in case of permanent residence. The main disadvantage is good audibility with poor sound insulation of the room.

If the pumping station is located in a separate room of a country house, then it is best to arrange a well directly under the building

Material on how to make a borehole water supply system will also be useful:

Option #2 - basement

An underground or basement can be equipped for the installation of a pumping station, but this should be considered when designing. If there is no heating in the room, and the floors and walls are not insulated, you will have to spend a lot of effort to prepare it.

A well-equipped basement is great for installing a pumping station. During the laying of the pipeline in the foundation of the house, a hole should be made for communications

Option # 3 - a special well

A possible option that has a couple of pitfalls. The first is the difficulty in maintaining the desired level of pressure in the house, the second is the difficulty in performing repairs.

When the pumping station is located in a well, on a specially equipped site, the pressure level should be adjusted, which depends on the power of the equipment and the parameters of the pressure pipe

Option # 4 - caisson

A special platform near the exit of the well is also suitable for installation, the main thing is to correctly calculate the depth of its location. The required temperature will be created by the heat of the earth.

The pumping station, located in the caisson of the well, has two advantages: complete noise insulation and protection against freezing during frost

In the absence of specially designed places, the unit is installed in common areas (in the hallway, bathroom, corridor, kitchen), but this is an extreme option. The loud noise of the station and comfortable rest are incompatible concepts, therefore it is better to prepare a separate room for the installation of a pumping station in the country.

Pipeline laying

The well is usually located near the house. In order for the pumping station to work properly and without interruption, it is necessary to ensure an unhindered flow of water from the source to the equipment, which is located in a specially designated place. For this purpose, a pipeline is being laid.

Low winter temperatures can cause pipes to freeze, so they are buried in the ground, preferably to a depth that is below the freezing level of the soil. Otherwise, the line should be insulated. The work is as follows:

• digging a trench with a slight slope towards the well;
• device in the foundation of a hole for the pipe at the optimum height (if necessary);
• pipe laying;
• connection of the pipeline to the pumping equipment.

During the construction of the highway, one may encounter such a problem as the presence of high-standing surface waters. Pipes in this case are mounted above the critical level, and heat-insulating material or a heating cable is used to protect against cold.

The advantages of polyethylene pipes and fittings over metal counterparts: no corrosion, ease of installation and repair, low price (30-40 rubles / m)

This diagram of the installation of a pumping station shows the option of insulating pipes above the level of soil freezing

The best option for thermal insulation of external water pipes is a solid "shell" of expanded polystyrene (thickness - 8 cm), wrapped in foil

For thermal insulation of pipes that are laid above the freezing level of the soil, an inexpensive and environmentally friendly material is often used - basalt-based mineral wool.

outdoor work

On the outside of the polypropylene pipe, we fix a metal mesh, which will serve as a coarse filter. In addition, you will need a check valve to ensure stable filling of the pipe with water.

It is possible to purchase a ready-made hose with a check valve and a coarse filter, but a self-equipped one will cost much less.

Without this part, the pipe will remain empty, therefore, the pump will not be able to pump water. The non-return valve is fixed using a coupling with an external thread. The end of the pipe equipped in this way is placed in the well.

The coarse filter for the supply hose is a metal mesh with a fine mesh. Without it, the correct operation of the pumping station is impossible.

After completing these steps, you can start refining the head of the well.

Connecting equipment

So, how should you properly connect a home pumping station so that you do not encounter technical inconsistencies in the future? First of all, we install the unit on a specially prepared base. It can be brick, concrete or wood. To ensure stability, we screw the legs of the station with anchor bolts.

For the installation of the pumping station, special legs-stands are provided, however, to give additional stability, the equipment must be fixed with bolts

Placing a rubber mat under the equipment can dampen unwanted vibrations.

For more convenient maintenance, the pumping station is installed on a base as high as an ordinary table, made of durable material - concrete, brick

The next step is to connect the pipe coming from the well. Most often this is a polyethylene product with a diameter of 32 mm. For connection, you will need a coupling with an external thread (1 inch), a metal corner with an external thread (1 inch), a check valve with the same diameter, an American straight tap. We connect all the details: we fix the pipe with a coupling, we fix the “American” with a thread.

One of the check valves is located in the well, the second is mounted directly to the pumping station. Both valves serve to protect the system from water hammer and ensure the correct direction of water flow.

The second output is intended for communication with the water supply network. It is usually located at the top of the equipment. Connection pipes are also made of polyethylene, as it is an inexpensive, plastic, durable material. Fixing occurs in a similar way - using an "American" and a combined coupling (1 inch, 90 ° angle) with an external thread. First, we fasten the “American” to the outlet of the station, then we mount a propylene coupling into the tap, and finally we fix the water pipe in the coupling by soldering.

For complete sealing of joints, their sealing is necessary. Traditionally, linen winding is used, a special sealing paste is applied on top of it.

After you have connected the pumping station to the water intake and water supply system, you need to check the quality of its work.

Carrying out a trial run

Before starting the station, it must be filled with water. We let water through the filler hole so that it fills the accumulator, lines and pump. Open the valves and turn on the power. The engine starts and water begins to fill the pressure pipe until all air is removed. The pressure will increase until the set value is reached - 1.5-3 atm, then the equipment automatically turns off.

In some cases, it is necessary to adjust the pressure value. To do this, remove the cover from the relay and tighten the nut

As you can see, it’s not difficult to install a home pumping station with your own hands, the main thing is to follow the installation instructions.

An automatic pumping station for a summer residence is especially relevant. It allows you to provide water for irrigation and domestic needs, as well as wastewater disposal, even in the presence of a large number of people and a rather large area of ​​​​the site.

The intensive pace of development of new sites is accompanied by the construction of not only residential multi-storey buildings on them, but also cottage settlements, individual houses for permanent residence, and the creation of summer cottages with houses.

In many areas of such construction, especially in cottage and holiday villages, there are no mains of centralized heat and water supply. In this regard, an automatic pumping station becomes the main equipment, without which it is impossible to do without in such conditions.

Helpful information:

Station types

The automatic water supply station performs a key function, thanks to which the optimal water pressure is created, which can be used for various purposes.

There are various types of water supply stations. Devices can be classified according to the place of installation into underground, buried and ground. In addition, various types of pumping equipment can be used in SAW, which allows them to be divided into:

• vertical;
• Horizontal;
• centrifugal;
• Axial.

The main features of automatic water supply stations

The device includes a hydraulic accumulator, a pump and a control system. Automatic water supply stations are compact, so they need a minimum of space to install. With their help, you can create and maintain the desired water pressure in the system.

Their body can be made of cast iron or stainless steel, which makes the device suitable for use in the most adverse conditions. It works almost silently.

The device of pumping equipment

The presence of a centralized water supply system does not yet mean the possibility of regular water supply at any time and in sufficient volume. This is especially true for large holiday villages during the dry season or hours of maximum water consumption for irrigation.

Such a station is a type of hydraulic device that is designed to increase and maintain pressure in the existing water supply network or transport it in the absence of a centralized system.

There are a lot of models, they differ in some design features and configuration. However, the main components of the equipment and their arrangement do not have a fundamental difference.

Thus, an automatic water supply pumping station consists of the following main components:

1. Electric motor.
2. Pump for the intake and pumping of water, or water pump.
3. Automated control systems.
4. membrane tank.
5. Mounting fittings.

In order to manufacture components and parts, high-strength materials are used that are resistant to aggressive environmental influences. They are made of stainless steel, diffusers are made of reinforced polymers, O-rings and gaskets are made of ceramic materials and graphite.

The use of high-quality materials contributes to a significant increase in the operating life of the equipment. The use of automatic control systems makes it possible to ensure the operating cycle of the pump in accordance with the required volume of water flow. This allows you to create significant savings in electrical energy.

Many models of automatic pumping stations are equipped with an operation indication screen. It displays the necessary information about the malfunctions that have occurred or the reasons for stopping the pump. They may be a lack of water in the source of the intake, a valve closed by mistake, air leakage, and others.

If the protection mechanism is triggered, the pump also automatically restarts at certain repeated time intervals. The devices provide stop and soft start modes, which significantly reduces the reactive power of the motor.

Due to this, there is no possibility of a water hammer effect in the pipeline with damage to the system. Some models of pumping stations are equipped with pump protection devices against possible overheating.

With the help of an electronic relay, which is equipped with an on and off timer for time intervals, you can independently set the required operating mode. In other words, it is possible to limit the number of starts, so that the service life of the device is significantly increased.

The tank is divided into two sections by an elastic membrane. Air is pumped into one of them using a pump. As a result of this, a pressure is created in it that exceeds the planned water pressure in the system.

When the pump is running, water enters the second section under pressure and compresses the air in the first section. When the required pressure is reached in the system, the pump is turned off, the membrane is deformed in the opposite direction, as a result of which it decreases gradually. When the pressure drops to a critical level, the pump turns on again.

Water can be taken from a well, and for irrigation - from a nearby river, lake or pond. Sometimes it is more expedient to draw water from different sources for different needs.

For example, you can use water from a reservoir to irrigate a site, and use water from a well as drinking water. There is no need to purchase additional devices for complex filtration, cleaning and disinfection. Therefore, it is possible to install several automatic pumping stations of small capacity.

Main selection criteria

If you are planning to buy a water supply station, try to find out in advance the most important selection criteria. So, an important role is played by pressure or the height to which the device can raise water. When determining the desired indicator, make a small margin of power.

It is also important to consider the depth of suction. Under it is called the distance from the axis of the pump to the surface of the water. You should also be interested in the performance of the device - the volume of water that it can supply per unit of time. Be aware that system manufacturers state maximum capacity, which is calculated at zero suction depth.

Believe me, a private house can be equipped with such a high level of comfort that it will become much more convenient to live in it than in a city apartment. In any case, the water supply can be used with no less convenience. In the same way, to get water, you just need to open a tap, which is not yet very compatible with suburban infrastructure, do you agree?

But this is not a “rainbow” dream at all. To implement the idea, it is enough to include a pumping station in the water supply scheme. She will do a colossal amount of hard physical work for the owners. True, for its competent connection and operation, you need to know the equipment device well.

We offer you valuable information about the specifics of the use of this technique. Our article will help you understand the principle of operation of the pumping station and introduce you to the installation rules. The information presented by us is complemented by extremely clear diagrams, photo collections and video guides.

Individual water supply of a private house or cottage can be from two sources - or a well. To automate the supply of water to the house, as well as to create a stable pressure, it is necessary to install a pumping station. It consists of a pump, and a safety group (pressure gauge and drain valve). The advantage of this idea is that any household appliances can work with such a water supply scheme, another good news is that connecting is not a very difficult task, if you wish, you can install and connect a pumping station with your own hands.

Selecting an installation location

Pumping stations are installed near a water source - a well or a well - in a specially equipped pit - a caisson. The second option is in the utility room in the house. The third is on a shelf in the well (such a number will not work with a well), and the fourth is in the underground.

Installation of a pumping station in the subfield - the noise from its operation may be too loud

How to determine the depth of suction

When choosing a place, they are primarily guided by technical characteristics - the maximum suction depth of the pump (from where the pump can lift water). The thing is that the maximum lifting depth of pumping stations is 8-9 meters.

Suction depth - the distance from the water surface to the pump. The supply pipeline can be lowered to any depth, it will pump water from the level of the water mirror.

Wells often have a greater depth than 8-9 meters. In this case, you will have to use other equipment - a submersible pump or a pumping station with an ejector. In this case, water can be supplied from 20-30 meters, which is usually enough. The disadvantage of this solution is expensive equipment.

Suction depth - a characteristic that determines the installation method

If you are only a meter away from being able to install conventional equipment, you can put the station in a well or above a well. A shelf is attached to the wall in the well, in the case of a well, a pit is deepened.

When calculating, do not forget that the level of the water mirror "floats" - in the summer it usually goes down. If your suction depth is on the verge, there may simply be no water during this period. Later, when the level rises, the water supply will resume.

Security Considerations

Another point to consider is the safety of the equipment. If the installation of a pumping station is supposed to be near a house with permanent residence, there are fewer problems - you can choose any option, even in a small shed. Only one condition - it should not freeze through in winter.

If this is a dacha where they do not live permanently, the matter is more complicated - it is necessary to arrange a room that is not striking. The safest way to install a pumping station is in the house. Although they can carry it away in this case.

The second place where you can install a pumping station is a buried camouflaged caisson.

The third is on a shelf in the well. Only in this case, the traditional one is not worth doing. You need a steel lid, which is locked with a reliable lock (weld loops to the ring, make slots in the lid, on which to hang locks). Although, a good cover can also be hidden under the house. Only the design must be thought out so that it does not interfere.

Convenience and operating conditions

Installing a pumping station in the house is good for everyone, except that the equipment makes noise during operation. If there is a separate room with good sound insulation and it is possible according to the technical characteristics, there is no problem. Often they make a similar room in the basement or in the basement. If there is no basement, you can make a box in the underground. Access to it is through a hatch. This box, in addition to sound insulation, must also have good thermal insulation - the operating temperature range starts from + 5 ° C.

To reduce the noise level, the station can be placed on thick rubber to dampen vibration (created by a cooling fan). In this case, even installation in the house is possible, but the sound will certainly still be there.

If you stopped at the installation of a pumping station in a caisson, it must also be insulated and also waterproof. Usually, ready-made reinforced concrete containers are used for these purposes, but a caisson can be made of concrete rings (like a well). Install the ring with the bottom down, the ring with the lid on top. Another option is to lay it out of brick, pour concrete on the floor. But this method is suitable for dry areas - the groundwater level should be lower by a meter below the depth of the caisson.

The depth of the caisson is such that the equipment is installed below the freezing level. Expanded polystyrene insulation. Better extruded. Then you also get waterproofing at the same time.

For a caisson of concrete rings, it is convenient to use a shell (if you find a suitable diameter). But you can also slab polystyrene foam, cut into strips and glue it. For rectangular pits and structures, slabs are suitable that can be glued to walls using bituminous mastic. Lubricate the wall, apply insulation, you can additionally fix it with a pair of nails / dowels.

Connection of a pumping station

Choosing equipment and a place for installation is half the battle. You also need to correctly connect everything into a system - a water source, a station and consumers. The exact connection diagram of the pumping station depends on the chosen location. But anyway there is:

• Suction pipeline that descends into a well or well. He goes to the pumping station.
• The station itself.
• The pipeline going to consumers.

All this is true, only the strapping schemes will change depending on the circumstances. Let's consider the most common cases.

Water supply from a well for permanent residence

If the station is placed in a house or in a caisson somewhere on the way to the house, the connection scheme is the same. A filter (most often a regular mesh) is installed on the supply pipeline lowered into a well or well, a check valve is placed after it, then a pipe already goes. Why the filter - it is clear - to protect against mechanical impurities. A check valve is needed so that when the pump is turned off, water under its own weight does not flow back. Then the pump will turn on less often (it will last longer).

The pipe is brought out through the wall of the well at a depth just below the freezing level of the soil. Then it goes into the trench at the same depth. When laying a trench, it must be made straight - the fewer turns, the lower the pressure drop, which means that water can be pumped from a greater depth.

To be sure, you can insulate the pipeline (lay sheets of polystyrene foam on top, and then fill it with sand, and then with soil).

Passage option not through the foundation - heating and serious insulation are required

At the entrance to the house, the supply pipe passes through the foundation (the place of passage should also be insulated), in the house it can already rise to the installation site of the pumping station.

This method of installing a pumping station is good because if everything is done correctly, the system works without problems. The inconvenience is that it is necessary to dig trenches, as well as bring the pipeline out / in through the walls, and also in the fact that it is difficult to localize damage when a leak occurs. To minimize the chances of a leak, take proven quality pipes, lay a whole piece without joints. If there is a connection, it is desirable to make a manhole.

There is also a way to reduce the volume of earthworks: lay the pipeline higher, but it is good to insulate it and use it additionally. This may be the only way out if the site has a high level of groundwater.

There is another important point - the well cover must be insulated, as well as the rings on the outside to the freezing depth. It's just that the section of the pipeline from the water mirror to the outlet to the wall should not freeze. For this, insulation measures are required.

Connecting the pumping station to the water supply

Often a pumping station is installed with a centralized water supply. In this case, a water pipe is connected to the inlet of the station (also through a filter and a check valve), and the outlet goes to consumers.

It is advisable to put a shut-off valve (ball) at the inlet so that if necessary you can turn off your system (for repairs, for example). The second shut-off valve - in front of the pumping station - is needed to repair the pipeline or the equipment itself. Then it also makes sense to put a ball valve at the outlet - in order to cut off consumers if necessary and not drain water from the pipes.

Well connection

If the suction depth of the pumping station for the well is sufficient, the connection is no different. Unless the pipeline exits at the point where the casing pipe ends. A caisson pit is usually arranged here, and a pumping station can be installed right there.

Pumping station installation: well connection diagram

As in all previous schemes, a filter and a check valve are installed at the end of the pipe. At the entrance, you can put a filler tap through a tee. You will need it for the first start.

The main difference between this installation method is that the pipeline to the house actually runs along the surface or is buried to a shallow depth (not everyone has a pit below the freezing depth). If the pumping station is installed in the country, it's okay, the equipment is usually removed for the winter. But if the water supply is planned to be used in winter, it must be heated (with a heating cable) and insulated. Otherwise it won't work.

Starting the pumping station

In order to put the pumping station into operation, it is necessary to completely fill it and the supply pipeline with water. For this purpose, there is a special filler hole in the body. Pour water into it until it appears. We twist the plug into place, open the tap at the outlet to consumers and start the station. At first, water goes with air - air plugs come out, which formed during the filling of the pumping station. When the water flows in an even stream without air, your system has entered the operating mode, you can operate it.

If you filled in water, and the station still does not start - the water does not pump or comes in jerks - you need to figure it out. There are several possible reasons:

• there is no non-return valve on the suction pipeline lowered into the source, or it does not work;
• somewhere on the pipe there is a leaky connection through which air is leaking;
• the resistance of the pipeline is too high - you need a pipe of a larger diameter or with smoother walls (in the case of a metal pipe);
• water mirror is too low, not enough power.

To prevent damage to the equipment itself, you can start it by lowering the short supply pipeline into some kind of container (tank of water). If everything works, check the line, suction depth and check valve.