How to make the transition between tile and laminate. How to make a sill between tile and laminate

Modern living spaces are distinguished by their original design, which involves a rather unusual combination of flooring materials with different structures and textures. One of the favorite design tricks is to combine laminate and tile. This is perhaps the best option for zoning living space.

When installing a finishing floor covering, it is often necessary to join the laminate and tiles. But the joint, no matter how hard you try, in the open state is a gap with sharply delineated boundaries, which does not paint the new floor at all. To effectively hide it, special connecting elements were invented - the so-called sills for laminate and tile. Most often they are used when both floor materials are laid in the same plane or the height difference is minimal - no more than 1 cm.

Purpose of sills

At first glance, this element is only necessary to improve the aesthetic component of the coating. But in practice, it performs a number of other, no less important functions. Timely installation of sills is not a laborious process. Therefore, it is recommended to include them in the installation scheme and equipment in advance.

In practice, during the operation of the coating, a large amount of dust and dirt accumulates in the crevices formed by the two materials. Sufficient effort is required to remove it. By installing the connecting element, the labor intensity of the floor can be reduced. In addition to this factor, we note an improvement in the appearance of the coating.

Positive qualities of connecting elements:

• Durability of the coating. The most vulnerable spots of a decorative floor are the edges. Under constant mechanical stress, chips and cracks form at their edges. Laminate thresholds between rooms will have a protective function;
• Safety for residents while walking;
• The ability to hide small defects. Most often these are level differences between different floor coverings;
• A selection of various models that differ not only in appearance, but also in the material of manufacture, design and installation method.

It is important to choose the right sills for the hidden fixing laminate or a similar model with a different wiring diagram. To do this, you should familiarize yourself with their varieties.

The choice will be influenced not only by the operational, but also by the technical characteristics of this mounting component. In particular, it is necessary to calculate the width correctly in order to completely cover the transition from tile to wood flooring.

Installation of sills on laminate and other materials is carried out in various ways:

• the use of decorative sills;
• joint to joint;
• arrangement of podiums.

Types: multilevel, corner, final, straight

• Leveling bills are designed to reduce the height amplitude between different surfaces. With the help of such structural elements, it is possible to hide height differences in the range of 3–18 mm.
• Straight thresholds between rooms are used to equip floor joints of the same height. The maximum possible variation in heights is not more than one millimeter.
• Corner or staircase - have local application. With their help, the floor covering is fixed near the steps. As a rule, they are made of rubber, since there is always a risk of slipping off the steps.
• Finishing - they decorate the approaches to the balcony, the threshold of the hallway, or frame the edges on the podium floors. They are quite often used as a multi-level sill between tiles and laminate flooring.

By the method of connection, they are distinguished:

• Metal bar with through fixation. It is a special strip that covers the joint, pressing its edges to the floor. For fastening, as one of the possible options, self-tapping screws equipped with a countersunk head are used. The bar is also effective when there is a difference in surface heights or an inaccurate trim is made. Silicone sealant can be used to seal the edges of the strip.

• H-shaped profile. It looks like the letter H, which has been laid on its side. The lower shelf is wound under the installed panels, then the tiles are inserted into the opposite groove and laid on the glue. In this case, a gap remains, which is rubbed with a special compound for tiles, and from the side of the lamellas, it is filled with a sealant. For this, acrylic or silicone compounds are suitable.
• H-shaped collapsible. It has two T-shaped strips, which are connected by legs. The bar is installed in accordance with the boundaries of the joint and fixed. After completing the installation, the upper part, decorative, is inserted into the clamp located on the lower part and snapped into place.

In addition, an important point is the choice of material of manufacture. For a long period of maintenance-free service, it is necessary to carefully check the quality of the product even before purchasing it. The most popular are aluminum models, as they have all the necessary properties - mechanical strength, do not corrode, can be painted in any color.

But in addition to them, there is a choice of the following types of final delimiters:

• Plastic. A budget option that can only be applied if the surface will not be exposed to heavy loads. Also, a flexible sill between and the laminate is used when creating non-straight patterns.
• From fiberboard. The advantage of this material is its appearance and harmonious combination with lamellas. The disadvantages include the effect of low mechanical strength. To create a pattern, a special film is applied to the surface of the fiberboard, which is protected with a layer of a special transparent material.
• Rubber. In fact, rubber is used during the manufacture of flexible thresholds. Sometimes polymers and other inorganic additives are added to the composition to create sufficient elasticity.
• Cork. They are very rare, as they are characterized by high cost and insufficient mechanical strength. Scope - decorative closing of small-sized cracks.

In addition to these types, manufacturers offer corner thresholds. They are mounted on the edge of the steps to prevent slipping while walking.

In some cases, it is possible to use glass products. But at the same time, all safety requirements are necessarily fulfilled, since a unique appearance is not the main priority when choosing.

How to install a sill between tiles and laminate

For the manufacture of decorative thresholds, wood, plastic or aluminum are used. In texture, they can imitate wood, stone, or even a gem. All this is the best fit for the design of joints between lamellas and tiles. Aluminum accessories are more resistant to abrasion, that is, they last much longer.

Straight thresholds

The easiest way is to install straight sills. They tightly close the gaps, prevent dirt or moisture from entering the butt joint. This method is not without its drawbacks:

• such a transition cannot be called completely smooth, since it protrudes slightly;
• it is not always possible to choose an accessory to match the floor materials;
• the screws used for fastening are sometimes visible on the surface, although today on the market you can also find laminate sills with hidden fastening.

Nevertheless, they are very popular. This is the most practical way to join materials.

• dowels are driven into the floor along the line of joining of the laminate and ceramic tiles. It is very easy to do this, since all products that are presented on the construction market today have special markings and symmetrical holes for fasteners. It is very easy to mark the base through them;
• according to the markings made, holes are drilled on the base and the threshold is screwed in with the screws that are included in the kit.
• this does not apply to wooden bases - the profile is attached to them immediately using self-tapping screws.

For hidden fastening, special glue or liquid nails are used. This method is rather laborious, however, more aesthetically pleasing, since it allows you to hide the fasteners.

Make sure that the floor material does not rest against the groove in the nut. It is necessary to leave an expansion gap of at least 5 mm, which will prevent their linear deformation at temperature extremes.

How flexible sills are installed

For the design of joints of complex shape - curved or curved, a flexible sill is used between the tile and the laminate. You can buy today these strips, which are able to take the required shape, in almost any building materials store.

Flexible thresholds consist of two parts. The lower one, on which there is a groove clip, is installed during the installation of the floor covering. The decorative insert snaps onto it later, on the finished floor finish.

These moldings are normally characterized by a small bend radius. Therefore, before work, they must be softened. The plastic is either immersed in warm water for about 15 minutes or a blow dryer is used. The insert, ready for installation, is driven into the lower part of the profile with light blows. A mallet is most suitable, its rubber head will not cause any damage to the surface of the decorative strip.

See how beautiful these sills look - photo:

How to dock without a nut: connection methods

Today it is possible to finish the joint between tile and laminate without a sill. With the right degree of dexterity and experience, noticeable level differences between the two layers of material can be prevented. There are several options for joining tiles and laminate flooring without a sill. For each of them, you will need to change the standard coating installation scheme.

• The first step is to prepare the subfloor. Ideally, the same level of first and second coat is considered. Therefore, the thickness of the lamella backing and the tile adhesive should be calculated in advance. After that, the process of laying the latter begins.
• As soon as the border is formed, you can proceed with the installation of the wooden covering. This will create a tile / laminate joint without a clear boundary. Once again, it is necessary to focus on the same level. During the installation process, it is allowed to use various types of primer to form a single pattern. The only prerequisite is the safety of use for wooden lamellas.
• A more difficult task is to connect laminate and tile without a wave-shaped nut. In this case, a form layout is prepared. For this, any suitable material is used, for example, a strip of thin-walled metal. The template is installed at the junction of the coatings. Then pieces of tiles are cut according to the resulting contours and installed on the subfloor. The same procedure is carried out with the lamellas. It is important that the blanks fit snugly against the template. After the final installation, it is removed and the joint is filled with a primer. In this way, the decorative surface is laid using the available tools at hand.

We present to your attention the most effective styling technologies.

• Cork expansion joints. Although this is a new material, it is already popular, as the transition is neat and very beautiful. Installation is quick, however long preparation is required. In addition, the materials are cut very carefully to avoid any damage, even the slightest chips. This is due to the fact that the expansion joint is inserted into the butt joint between the coverings, and it must be even not only in width, but also in depth. To do this, when fitting these materials to each other, a small gap, approximately 2 mm, is left. They differ greatly in strength, and if the tile remains completely intact with their direct contact, then with the laminate everything is completely different - the lamellas can be deformed or damaged. The compensator is placed in the butt joint. It is pushed inward using a regular screwdriver. The cork expansion joint does not require any special maintenance or additional processing.

• Sealants (foam, mastic, paste). In this way, you can hide butt joints of any shape, width and depth. The most important point is the selection of the expansion material. It must have good adhesion to both surfaces, be strong and resilient. It should be borne in mind that after processing the seam is one-piece, that is, if repair is necessary, the entire floor is dismantled. Joints are processed in the following sequence:

• first lay out the tiles, and when the glue is completely seized, the lamellas are fitted under it;
• lamellas should cover the tile with a certain margin;
• mark the exact cut line;
• the unnecessary part of the tile is very carefully cut off with a grinder;
• a part of the substrate is cut off from the lamellas so that at the seam the height of the abutting surfaces is the same. Then the material is thoroughly rubbed with emery;
• the laminate with the part from which the substrate was cut is fixed to the screed with glue;
• after the materials are tightly joined, they begin to seal the seams.

Zoning of the space of the premises is often performed by the device of floor coverings with dissimilar materials. The surface of the kitchen area is covered with ceramic tiles, the floor in the dining room or living room adjacent to the kitchen is finished with laminate. The materials belong to completely different groups of facing products, but they perfectly coexist side by side. For the design of the connecting lines between them, there are sills for laminate and tiles, which can divide the space, while simultaneously making it solid. They frame stair steps, podiums, exits, transitions between rooms from laminate to tiles.

Since it is now not customary to equip door frames with a threshold, the joints of the floors of adjacent rooms are also joined with an additional profile, hiding the gaps. It doesn't matter if they are made only with laminate or in combination with ceramic tiles. Docking lines are straight, curved, complex. Floor surfaces can be in the same horizontal plane, with a slight difference in height. There are many planks, profiles that help hide all transitions and irregularities. They can be found on the shelves of almost any building materials store.

In addition to thresholds, there are other ways of joining heterogeneous elements. It is impossible to accurately determine their effectiveness, but getting to know each other is necessary. The transition from tile to laminate can be done with:

• sealants (foams, pastes, mastics) - they can be used to seal joints of any configuration. It is important to choose a sealant that will have good adhesion to tiles and laminates. The connection turns out to be practically eternal. This is both an advantage of the method and its disadvantage. If it is necessary to carry out repair work, all floors will have to be dismantled. Since sealants tightly grow together with laminated surfaces, tiles. They can only be used with absolutely the same height of both coatings;
• cork expansion joints are completely new products that are already popular. If the work is done exactly according to the technology, the transition is neat and beautiful. The installation process is quite simple, the compensator is laid with a regular screwdriver. Preparatory actions take a lot of time, require special care, since the seam should turn out along the entire length of the same depth and width. Any damage to the edges of the coatings is not allowed. This is especially true for laminate flooring.

Sealants
Cork expansion joints

Of all the methods, the most convenient option for joining materials of different quality is the sill between the tile and the laminate. A large number of proposals on the building structures market make it possible to give the floor surface a neat, finished look.

Types of sills for laminate and tiles

The classification of connecting elements for joining ceramic tiles and laminate can be performed, guided by several features: materials, purpose, methods of connection. The most commonly used raw materials are aluminum, plastic, wood, cork, a combination of metal plus rubber are also used. By design, a threshold (this is how even a completely flat element is called) happens:

• traditional, classic, if it is framed by steps, outer corners of the same quality or two different materials. It has the shape of an inner or outer corner. The threshold is usually made of metal, since wood or plastic is not strong enough, stairs need strong profiles. A rather large load from the movement of people and goods falls on the steps, therefore, increased requirements are imposed on the upper coatings;
• edging or leveling - with a small difference in levels for tiles and laminates, the sills are made of metal, equipped with an elastic rubber gasket. It is the rubber layer that compensates for height differences during installation. The result will make itself felt - a fairly flat surface is obtained. If there is a larger difference in height, it makes sense to choose a hard plastic nut that is suitable for the size of the section;
• decorative overlays with which the threshold is trimmed at the transitions between rooms. The material is used in the case of joining homogeneous and dissimilar parts. The linings are made from almost any material. If metal is taken, then it can be decorated with a finishing film for the main type of floor, plastic strips are made in any color, for any texture;
• curved sills - are used when the connection of dissimilar surfaces is to be done with an unusual design solution. The joint can turn out to be beautiful, even only when both floor surfaces are laid on the same level. Aluminum is not useful here, since it is not flexible enough, arbitrary bends cannot be made. Therefore, a durable plastic, cork, is used. It is not easy to set such a threshold, but it looks very nice;
• final - they are used when they frame the edges of the hallway covering, at the exit to the balcony, loggia, at the podium. A threshold of this type is very often used as a multilevel threshold when a laminate and ceramic products are connected.

Final
Decorative
Classical
Curvilinear
Docking

There remains one more option for dividing the sills into types - the connection method. In cross-section, the product can be a one-piece letter H, a flat bar, as well as a composite letter H, consisting of two T-shaped bars. A profile in the form of a solid H, laid on one side, is applied by laying the covering on both sides of the plank. Fastening to the floor with self-tapping screws. In the latter version, one of the planks is installed at the bottom of the seam, with the leg up. The second, with a decorative surface, is mounted on top, then connected with the lower clamp.

Which one is better to choose

It is impossible to unambiguously determine which nut, from which material to choose. For the simple reason that different connection conditions require their own products. According to the constructive solution, the thresholds must be purchased according to the purpose, as well as the intended method of installation. Sometimes you need flat pads, corners, sometimes you can't do without a special profile, sometimes only a cork product can help. If we are talking about the material that is used in the manufacture of thresholds, it is chosen based on the intensity of operation of the floor elements. It should be borne in mind that wooden products, soft plastic moldings are highly susceptible to abrasion, and will quickly cease to serve. Metal profiles are not suitable for making complex curved connections. Then you need to opt for plastic products, supplemented with rubber material, designed to warm up, bend, take the desired configuration.

Textured, color solutions will not cause problems, everything is much simpler. There are no restrictions here. Plastic sills are produced in such a wide range of colors that they can satisfy the needs of any design option for flooring, the general interior of the room. Metal products solve the issue in a slightly different way. Designers have come up with special film decorations that are highly durable. They can be matched to the color, texture of the used laminated, tiled surface.

Installation rules

There are two ways to mount connecting products: open and closed. The first option is used to install metal elements. They call it open because the caps of the fasteners remain in sight, which subsequently need to be painted with the color of the threshold. Fastening is carried out using ordinary plastic dowels equipped with self-tapping screws. The metal plane for this has holes made at the factory. With a hidden method of securing the thresholds, first install the lower part of the profile, screwing it to the ceiling with self-tapping screws or planting it on strong glue. On this part of the profile, there are special clips for the upper bar. The decorative part of the molding clicks securely into place, a very strong connection is obtained.

The floor covering must not completely fill the gap in the sill. It is necessary to create an expansion gap that will not allow linear changes in the coating with temperature drops. Installation steps

Features of mounting flexible sills

If framing straight thresholds with a corner practically does not cause problems, then the installation of curved connections has some features. They should be considered in more detail. Neither wood nor metal are suitable for these cases due to their inability to bend at any degree. There are two possibilities to connect laminate flooring and tiles: using cork inserts or a complex plastic profile. The plug is easy to install, but it requires thorough, thorough preparation for its arrangement. The balsa wood expansion joint cannot close the blemishes of uneven cut edges in laminate or tile. In order for the joint to be neat and beautiful, the gap between different coatings should be no more than two millimeters.

The abutting laminate and tile surfaces are located strictly in the same plane. Their edges are carefully leveled, sanded, and adjusted very precisely to one another.

If ceramic tiles do not cause problems, then laminated boards are difficult to process, they will require additional labor and time. The result is worth it - high-quality cork joints look very beautiful. Mounting options

For a curved connection, the plastic molding also needs a curved one. With ready-made radii, it is impossible to get such. Usually, products are sold that have a relatively slight bend. To obtain a rail of the required configuration, it must be softened before installation work. This can be done with a hot air gun or simply by immersion in hot water. After such actions, the material becomes pliable, easily bends according to the specified parameters. This profile consists of two parts.

The lower part is attached to the floor along the contour of the seam. It is installed parallel to the base coat. On the side of the laminated surface, it is necessary to provide a small gap to create an expansion joint. Since the boards can shrink and expand with changes in temperature. Let it be insignificant, but in order to avoid deformations, this must be done. The upper part is neatly connected to the fastening clips located on the lower element. In order not to damage the surface of the decorative profile and flooring, you should use not an ordinary hammer, but a wooden mallet. Plastic slats are convenient in that they can hide a fairly large height difference between the coatings. There are profiles that can close the vertical difference between laminate and tiles up to 18 mm.

Video of installing the sill between tiles and laminate

In the video you can see how to properly arrange the joint between the tile and the laminate.

To date, combining two floor coverings in one room at once will not be difficult. The article will focus on how to choose and install the sill between the tiles and the laminate with your own hands, while obtaining the original floor finish.

Closing the seam between tile and laminate

Modern fashion trends favor flooring with dividing the premises into functional zones. This is done through the use of several facing materials. The most interesting is the combination of ceramic tiles and laminate.

To harmoniously combine these two coatings, you will need to use a laminate and tile sill so that the joint between the two areas does not stand out. In the photo and when viewed, this cladding element will not stand out, but on the contrary will complement the originality of the coating.

The junction between two materials is a line and is not always perfectly straight. If you do not close it, then it will be quite difficult to make the seam invisible. A special decorative threshold will allow it to be hidden, as well as to compensate for possible height differences between adjacent areas of flooring.

Materials for the manufacture of sills

Today, there are three main types of sills, depending on the materials used in the manufacture:

• aluminum- high strength characteristics and resistance to wear, low degree of wiping during operation and good resistance to mechanical stress;
• plastic- are mounted together with a rubber backing, which ensures the most tight fit of the sill to the mating surfaces;
• wooden- are less flexible and tend to dry out, therefore they are less popular, but sometimes their design is ideal for combined coatings.

Classification according to the configuration of the sills

As for the parameters, the threshold between the tile and the laminate can be of two types: flexible or straight. If the first one is the simplest plate for eliminating the visible straight-line gap between two decks, then the curved one is a real accessory for people with design talent, which helps to bring to life the most non-standard ideas.

Existing flexible laminate and tile sills can change their installation path along a small radius.

To date, the thresholds are supplied for sale in a collapsible form. If earlier it was possible to purchase a nut and firstly insert it into the gap, cutting it off, now you will need to first use the substrate, and then fix the decorative strip itself on it.

It is worth remembering the low elasticity of wooden sills, therefore it is worthwhile to understand that the flexible threshold for laminate and tile can only be plastic or aluminum.

Types of connection types

The following options are worth highlighting:

1. A metal threshold with a through installation method - a strip laid on the joint and clamped using self-tapping screws screwed directly through the element and the coating. The advantage of such an element is ease of installation and reliability of fixing to any surface. Also, using such a strip, you can eliminate a significant difference in height between adjacent decks. Enhancing the effect of adhesion to the surface allows the sealant previously applied to the seam between the tile and the laminate.
2. A special cross-sectional docking bar represented by the shape of the letter "H". It is rather difficult to mount such an element (read also: "").

The H-shaped sill for the joint between the laminate and the tile is laid in the following sequence:

• The plank is turned over on its side and inserted under adjacent floorings so that laminate is inserted into one groove of the sill and ceramic tiles into the other. This creates a transition from the tiles to the laminate, which looks nice and neat.
• The seam formed on the side of the tile is sealed with grout, and a sealant is used under the laminate. Thus, it turns out that one side of the letter "H" is held by a hook from the lower part of the covering, and the upper one is laid over the flooring like a simple metal sill.

There is also a kind of split H-shaped sill, which was created to facilitate the installation process. The separation takes place at the level of the jumper. The lower part is laid under the adjacent decks in the same way as described above for a one-piece element, and the upper part is simply inserted into it.

The process of laying the sill between the tile and the laminate

As for laying the simplest metal sill, the owner can do the work on his own.

To do this, he will have to perform the following actions:

• measure the thickness of the seam at the junction of the tile and laminate;
• mark the strip to be laid taking into account the previously obtained dimensions;
• attach a nut and outline the intended places of fastening with self-tapping screws;
• drill holes for fasteners, taking into account the seal, which must be previously driven into them;
• screw the screws through the strip into the seals.

If it is not possible to use a hammer drill with a drill and a thickening to take into account the size of the seal, then you can process the joint threshold for laminate and tile using a larger drill.

As for the screwed-in self-tapping screws, they must be sunk below the surface of the strip so that they do not cause discomfort during operation. Mistakes during installation can lead to injury if occupants start bumping into a protruding fastener or an unsecured threshold.

It will be more aesthetic to use hidden fasteners to fix the bar. In this case, you can use liquid nails. Such an adhesive composition is applied under the sill for the laminate and tiles; a multilevel installation method will not be a problem. In the photo and during visual inspection, such a mount will not be noticeable, which makes the decorative element more original.

Outcome

It is possible to do without sills for combining different floor coverings, given that the price for such decorative strips is high, but not recommended, since without them the laying of the flooring itself becomes much more complicated (read: ""). A correctly selected nut will perfectly fit into the interior of the room and will complete the idea that the designer conceived.

Naturally, when working with construction companies, the owner can also order the service of laying the sill in conjunction with the equipment of the floors in the room. Experts will take responsibility for the choice of planks, their installation and even provide a guarantee for all services provided.

Laminate and ceramic tiles are two of the most popular floor coverings in recent years. How to arrange the joint between the laminate and the tile, so that it is correct and beautiful, and will be discussed. If the junction is in a doorway, the best way out is a sill. This type of product can be called "transition profile", "connecting profile" and so on in the same spirit. But not always the joint between the laminate and the tile is in the doorway. For other cases, there are other solutions that can also be applied between rooms.

Tile or porcelain stoneware and laminate are two completely different floor coverings with different properties and characteristics. But both materials change size when temperature and humidity change. The tile changes slightly, but the laminate can increase or decrease by 1-1.5 mm per meter of length. And if the length of the room is 5 meters, this is already from 5 mm to 7.5 mm.

Docking tiles and laminates without thresholds and with thresholds. Everyone chooses what he likes best

As you understand, if you do not take care that the materials have room to expand, they will rise, therefore, along the walls, they leave a technological expansion gap. It should be at the junction of the laminate and tiles too. Therefore, they are not laid close to each other, but leaving an empty distance between the two coatings. This distance is at least 10 mm. To cover this distance, use sills, profiles. Is it possible to do without sills at the junction between laminate and tile? Can. There are solutions, but it can only be placed side by side if the length of the laminate is short. Otherwise, the gap is simply filled with a suitable elastic material or insert.

Porozhek serves another purpose. It can be used to cover the connection of materials of different levels. It will not be possible to close a big difference, but a few millimeters is easy. When joining tiles and laminate without a sill, it is necessary to bring two coatings to the same level without the slightest deviation. One more thing: the tile and laminate trim must be perfect. After all, the seam turns out to be open.

Metal thresholds

The metal sills between the tile and the laminate are made of aluminum and brass. Can be found in stainless steel. The surface can be:

• glossy (polished) or matte;
• painted - powder painting, chrome plating, anodizing or galvanizing;
• laminated with the same film that is used in the manufacture of the laminate.

This is what the nut can be made of. There are also plastic and wooden ones. Plastic ones are too short-lived, although replacing them is not a problem. They cost a little, they are mounted simply and quickly. Wooden ones are usually used at the junction of parquet or plank floor with tiles. Next, let's talk about the forms and features of their installation.

Docking strip

The easiest and cheapest way to close the joint is to install a regular overhead sill. This is a slightly curved bar made of aluminum or brass. A notch can be applied to the "back" so that the foot does not slip. Installation - directly through the strip to the base using dowels or self-tapping screws. Holes for mounting hardware can be drilled at the factory. There are options when you need to do them yourself.

Simple overhead nut

Before installation, measure the width of the opening, cut off the bar of the required length. Then they put it in place. When installing on self-tapping screws, there are no problems - we immediately fasten it to the base (plywood, gypsum fiber board and other materials). If the base is cement or concrete, dowels are required. Then, using a pencil, a marker and a thin drill, the holes for the fasteners are transferred to the base. Drill holes for plastic plugs. The drill diameter is equal to the diameter of the fastener. Insert the plugs, put the nut in place and tighten the dowel-nails.

The second way to mount the flat nut is on silicone or elastic glue. It is not as reliable, although the silicone is also quite strong. There are also such overhead sills with an adhesive applied. When installing them, the surfaces must be well cleaned and degreased with white spirit. After drying, remove the protective film and put the sill back in place, smooth / press down well.

By the way, when installing on screws / dowels, it is also better to apply a strip of sealant or glue to the edges of the nut. Both formulations must remain flexible after drying. The elasticity will allow the coatings to move slightly - with changes in humidity and temperature. And the composition itself will not allow sand and other small debris to be under the bar. Otherwise, during operation, it cramps into the gap, and then begins to slowly lift it up.

Nut with cable duct

Low-current wiring - TV cables, Internet cables - can be a problem. It is not clear where to lay these wires and cables so that they are safe, accessible for inspection and at the same time do not spoil the appearance. One solution is to use floor skirting boards with cable ducts. But how do you get them through the doorway? There are two solutions. The first is around the doorway, the second is to be laid in the sill with a cable channel.

Nut with cable duct

They are of two types - convex, of different width / height, built-in. Recessed, these are those that are practically on the same level with the flooring. They are usually metal with a molded recess. But you can't hide a lot of wires there. They can be with or without rubber pads.

T-shaped saddle

The good thing about T-sills is that you don't have to use fasteners when installing them. These are the so-called hidden fastening sills for laminate flooring. If pipes or cables or other communications pass through the floor, it is dangerous to drill it. The T-shaped saddle consists of two parts: the actual protective strip in the form of the letter T and an auxiliary profile. This profile is usually U-shaped. Such profiles are available for single-level coatings (they are cheaper) and for multi-level coatings (more expensive).

The T-shaped threshold can be for single-level and multi-level coatings

Multilevel T-sills can be placed with some inclination. For this, both the "leg" of the overhead strip and the walls of the U-shaped profile are provided with notches. But the difference cannot be large - a few millimeters. Maximum - up to 3 millimeters. Although, there are more expensive systems in which the top bar consists of three movably connected parts. Here the difference may be greater.

More expensive options that "adjust" to the difference between laminate and tile

The installation of the T-piece is to glue / screw on the auxiliary U-profile. The T-piece is then inserted into it. These parts are sold separately. It is clear that the shape of the groove of the auxiliary profile and the protrusions on the T-shaped part must be compatible. This view is good in that the decorative strip is easy to replace. But if you took it out once, it won't hold on the second time. That is, you will need a different decorative strip. They don't cost too much.

Z-shaped

The main idea of ​​the nut is to leave freedom of movement for the coating as it grows in size. Tile and porcelain stoneware change less, laminate more. Therefore, they make Z-shaped sills with shelves of different widths. A narrow shelf of a few millimeters covers the tile cut, a wider one closes the gap to the laminate.

Z-shaped transition sills

This nut is good in that it does not need to be fixed: the lower bar is wound under the tile and is held due to the strength of the glue. The downside is that such a threshold between the tile and the laminate can only be installed when installing the tiles. Laminate flooring can be started later, but the sill should only be laid together with the tiles.

Joining tiles and laminates without thresholds

If the joint between the laminate and the tile does not pass under the door, the use of sills looks illogical and scratches the eye. In this case, you can put not sills, but various types of compensators. They do not go into the material, but they fill the gap. And once again we draw your attention to the fact that when joining a laminate and a tile in this version, the trimming must be jewelry and perfectly executed.

The docking bar is not always in the form of a nut

How to bring tiles and laminate flooring to the same level

As already mentioned, if you want to make the joint between the laminate and the tile without overhead sills, you need to bring the coverings one level. The match must be accurate. If it turns out that the laminate "comes out" a little lower, you will have to look for a substrate of suitable thickness. If the difference is too large, it may need to be smoothed with tile adhesive. The alignment is smooth. Remember that the permissible difference for the laminate is 2 mm by 2 meters in length. So all this will need to be thought out in advance.

If the laminate + substrate is thicker, level it out with a thicker layer of glue under the tile. With a difference of 1-2 mm, you can play due to a larger layer of glue, a spatula with a deeper tooth. If more than 2 mm, you will have to do preliminary alignment. The rise should be smooth - not less than a meter. For this, a bar is prepared with a length of a little more than a meter. At one end of it, a ledge is made, with which the bar will rest on the edge of the laminate. The step from the lower end of the plank to the ledge is equal to the thickness of the tile + the thickness of the adhesive.

We carry out the alignment with tile glue. It dries faster. We apply it to the area to be leveled. We support the bar with a ledge on the laminate, with the other end on the base of the floor. It is better to pre-stick masking tape on the laminate. Better - a few strips to protect against glue and scratches. We carry out this bar "towards ourselves", collecting excess glue. Then we post them on. The work is similar to that of concrete or mortar on beacons. Having achieved a relatively flat surface, we leave it to dry. There is no need to remove ideally - tile glue will hide small (a few millimeters) flaws. Then it's up to filling the seam.

Cork expansion joint

The transition between tile and parquet or tile and laminate can be filled with a cork expansion joint. This is a cork block covered with a protective / decorative layer of a certain color. It comes in different heights (from 8 mm to 16 mm) and widths (8 mm, 10 mm, 12 mm). So it is matched to the width of the opening.

Cork expansion joints

Attach the plug to the sealant. Can be acrylic. They can be tinted in some color, you can match them with filler. It is better if the sealant remains elastic after drying, then the joint between the laminate and the tile will look normal for a long time. The usual one will crack, dust will cram into the cracks, which will significantly reduce the attractiveness.

The method for installing a cork expansion joint between the laminate and the tile is as follows:

• We clean the gap between the tile and the laminate.
• Apply sealant in a zigzag pattern to the base.
• Install the expansion joint, press down, align flush with the coating.
• We bend the plug to one side, apply the sealant.
• Press tightly to this edge, apply on the other side.
• We expose exactly.
• We mix water with dish detergent, take a sponge and remove the squeezed out excess.

Cork expansion joint - one of the options

If the surface of the seams is normal, you can leave it as it is. If you need to touch up, take a small rubber spatula or rubber flap and form a concave edge. So the elasticity of the composition will remain longer and it will not burst. The spatula can be replaced with a gloved fingernail (you can use a plastic one, you can use a rubber one).

Fill with liquid stopper or sealant

If the sill between the tile and the laminate is not attractive in any way, you can fill the gap with a liquid plug or fill it with a sealant. The materials are different, but the filling method is the same. The liquid cork is sold in polyethylene tubes, the sealant is sold in different ways, but it is more convenient to work with tubes for a mounting gun. The sealant and liquid plug must be flexible. Moreover, the elasticity must be maintained after drying. Otherwise, there is no point in such insertions.

Seam filling with liquid cork or sealant

Installation is simple: we clean, fill, level the surface, wait until it dries. But there are moments. First. Before work, it makes sense to protect the coating with masking tape. They are glued exactly to the edge. After work, they are removed, there are no problems with washing off the sealant or liquid cork. Second. The sealant is usually squeezed out of the tube, but the liquid cork cannot be inserted there. You will need a small rubber spatula. We cut the edge of the tube, gradually squeeze out the composition, fill in the seam. This is where scotch tape comes in handy. Third. The rule for plug / sealant alignment is the same as described above. It is necessary to create not a flat surface, but either curved or concave. So the seam stretches and shrinks better, does not crack, does not lose its appearance.

It should be said about the parameters of the gap that can be filled with the composition. The sealant retains its elasticity only if the layer depth is not greater than the joint width. That is, if the gap is too narrow and wide, the lower part needs to be filled with something. Do not forget that this "something" must be elastic.

Profile between laminate and tile

Another way to arrange the junction of the laminate with the tile is to insert a profile or a metal compensating insert. This is a U-shaped insert with a strip attached to one side, which is wound under the tile. That is, this type of sill is mounted when laying tiles. There is no other way. That is, first a tile is laid, a profile is laid under it, and then a laminate is attached to it on the other side.

So that small debris does not penetrate into the cracks and dust does not clog, before laying the material, coat its edges with a sealant. It is also important here that the sealant does not crack, so we are looking for an elastic one too. Why is it possible to fix the laminate to the metal expansion joint? Because it is due to its elasticity and will perceive the load.

Smooth joint

Not always tiles or porcelain stoneware are connected to the laminate in a straight line. There are joints with smooth, rounded curves. How to proceed in this case? It is possible to fill the seam with a sealant or liquid cork as described above, but there are special flexible profiles and sills. The profiles are mostly metal. They are easily distinguished by the small thickness of the top shelf that covers the edge of the laminate (usually). The second distinguishing feature is a part cut into fragments, which is wound under the tile. This is what makes the profile flexible.

These are metal profiles for the design of a smooth joint line.

Shelf width - from 1-2 mm to 4-5 mm. The wider the shelf, the smaller the bending radius. Before installation, give the desired shape, wind up under the tile. On the other hand, the edge of the laminate is brought under the shelf. So the installation is simple.

There are also flexible T-shaped profiles made of rubber and flexible plastic. They, like ordinary T-shaped sills, consist of two parts - a U-shaped embedded profile and a lining. The only difference is that the pad is flexible. That's just the plastic and rubber are used tough enough - so that they do not wear off and do not scratch. That is, in the usual form, it will not be possible to bend strongly. If it is necessary to make a sharp bend, the sill between the tile and the laminate is kept in hot water (about 70 ° C) for about 15-20 minutes. The heated material bends without problems. It is shaped until it cools down.