How to assemble your own street basement on the ground. Do-it-yourself ground cellar: step by step instructions

Do-it-yourself cellar in the country is a good opportunity to ensure long-term and high-quality storage of products. And since, if the cellar is built correctly, it all year round the same temperature is stably maintained, it is simply indispensable for storing not only preserves and pickles, but also vegetables and fruits. A cellar in the country is an absolutely necessary thing for those who have a garden or orchard in their country house.

Cellar in the country: the main types

Despite the structural features of the construction, the cellars can be divided into three types (schemes for the construction of cellars, depending on the type, are shown in Fig. 1):

• ground - suit in the case of a very high (0.5 m) groundwater level. It can be just an insulated box made of wood, a wall cellar (adjacent to the main wall, in fact - another room, only with earth embankment, the diagram is shown in Fig. 2) or a brick storage with embankment (Fig. 3)

• semi-buried cellar- arrange in places where the groundwater level is located within 1.5-2 m from the surface of the earth. A diagram of a semi-buried cellar is shown in fig. four.

• For its construction, it will be necessary to dig a pit with a depth of 0.8-1m. The base is built of brick or concrete, raising the walls to a height of 2-2.2 m. The ceiling is made of wood, concrete or slate. From above, the entire structure is sprinkled with soil. The entrance to such a cellar is arranged at ground level, with a vestibule, stairs and a second, necessarily insulated, door. In principle, all construction operations, including waterproofing, ventilation and insulation, are similar to those carried out during the construction of a buried basement.

• buried cellar- the most common type, it can be either separate (having its own cellar, Fig. 5), or located under the house, summer kitchen or a garage. Therefore, how to build a cellar with your own hands in the country, we will consider in detail below.

For the construction of a semi-buried, and especially a buried cellar, it is very important to accurately determine the place of construction, or more precisely, to determine the level of groundwater. To do this, you can use the help of professionals (expensive, but reliable), or you can try the folk method, which gives a fairly accurate result. This will require a glass jar, a piece of wool and a fresh egg. In the place where you planned the construction of the cellar, put a piece of wool on the ground, on top of it - an egg and cover them with a glass cap on top. Leave this "design" for the night, and in the morning evaluate the results:

• wool and egg in dew- the level of occurrence of groundwater is insignificant, here you will have to limit yourself to a ground cellar

• there is dew on the wool, and the egg is dry- groundwater is deep enough for the construction of a semi-buried cellar
• dry egg and wool – perfect place for the construction of a buried cellar.

Advice! The construction of the cellar is best done in the summer, when the groundwater level is at its lowest.

If the construction of the cellar is planned in the house (more precisely, under the house), then it is better to place it under non-residential (unheated) premises, ideally - under the veranda (the temperature in it is lower than in the rest of the house, it is easier to arrange ventilation, and in winter the veranda will protect from frost). If the layout of the house allows you to equip the cellar only in the heated part of the building, additional thermal insulation of the floor will be required (for example, lay foam plastic 5 cm thick on the floor) and good ventilation, otherwise it is impossible to ensure optimal food storage.

After that, you can proceed to the practical part of the construction.

Digging a pit

Do-it-yourself construction of a cellar in a country house begins with marking the pit, while adding from 0.5 to 1 m to the planned dimensions - this will make it easier to waterproof the cellar. First remove the top fertile layer soil - it can be further used to create flower beds, terraces, alpine slides etc. After that, they dig the pit directly (Fig. 6).

Advice! So that the earth does not crumble down and the soil holds on stronger, the walls of the pit are made not vertical, but slightly sloped, while the steepness of the slope is selected depending on the type of soil (the harder it is, the smaller the slope).

To make sure that water does not seep through the walls somewhere, the pit is allowed to stand for a while. The places where water appeared are sealed with the so-called "clay swabs" - they dig a ditch (up to 50 cm deep) and trample it with crumpled greasy clay, while tamping it heavily.

cellar base

To obtain a base, the bottom of the pit is leveled and rammed, after that a sand and gravel cushion is made and the first layer of concrete 5-10 cm thick is poured. Roofing material is laid in 2-3 layers on top of the first layer or melted bitumen is poured (waterproofing layer, Fig. 7) , after which they are concreted again, pouring a layer 10-15 cm thick. If brick walls are erected (half-brick-brick thickness), then this base will be enough as a foundation. If the walls are laid out of concrete blocks or some walls of the cellar are continued as load-bearing walls of the house, then a separate foundation will be required.

Walling

For the construction of the walls of the cellar, you can use different materials. Most often, bricks, concrete blocks are used for this (Fig. 8, most often they are used to build load-bearing walls of the house on them), rubble, cinder block (Fig. 9). Another option is to pour monolithic concrete walls, in which case the walls can be integral with the base, for which purpose wall reinforcement is initially fixed in it (Fig. 10), then the formwork is installed and the solution is poured (Fig. 11).

Floor installation

The choice of material for overlapping is largely determined by what loads it will have to withstand during further operation. It can be made:

• wood - beams or logs, on which boards or beams are laid on top. Since there is always high humidity in the cellar, all wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic.

• metal beams on which concrete slabs can be laid. In this case, it is especially necessary to carefully process and seal the seams (joints of plates)
• monolithic concrete floor- poured in the same way as monolithic walls

Stairs

The simplest, but very inconvenient option is ladder, welded from pipes or knocked down from wood. It is advisable to include in the project stationary ladder made of iron, concrete or metal, it is both more convenient and safer to use it:

• the minimum width is 30-40 cm, but better is about 50-60 cm, it will be convenient to climb along it

• if it is planned to lower heavy ones into the cellar, oversized cargo that need to be carried by two, then the width of the stairs must be at least 80 cm

• maximum allowable slope- 75 degrees, but such a staircase will be within the power of young and energetic. To make the stairs comfortable, but at the same time not take up much space, a slope of 45 degrees would be optimal - it is quite easy to climb it (the span is not very long) even with a load in hand
• step height - 15 - 20 cm, width - 25-30 cm

Basement wall waterproofing

To ensure water resistance, concrete and brick walls are additionally plastered with cement mortar. After final drying of the layer plasters on the outside of the wall, bituminous mastic is applied, on which roofing material is glued (Fig. 11), after which the soil is backfilled.

Advice! To improve waterproofing, instead of backfilling with soil, you can do clay castle. To do this, clay is mixed with water and coarse sand until a plastic mass is formed, resembling plasticine. The resulting mass is placed in a pit between the walls and the ground, tamping very tightly.

Ventilation device

Properly organized natural ventilation will avoid excessive humidity and dampness, maintaining the optimal temperature and humidity conditions in the cellar. To do this, two pipes are installed in the cellar (metal, ceramic, asbestos-cement, plank, etc.):

• exhaust - installed at the top, almost under the ceiling, while it must be insulated

• supply - located at a height of 50-60 cm from the floor

To ensure maximum air exchange, pipes should be located as far apart as possible. The cross section of the pipe is selected in accordance with the dimensions of the cellar, for example, for normal ventilation of a cellar with an area of ​​8 m2 and a height of 2 m, a pipe with a cross section of 12X12 cm is required. The main signs of impaired ventilation are: condensation on the ceiling, dampness, signs of mold, musty, unpleasant air . Figure 12 shows a diagram of the organization of ventilation for a separate cellar

Figure 13 shows a diagram of the organization of ventilation for the cellar in the basement of the house.

It is worth paying attention that it is necessary to install a grate on the supply pipe, which will prevent rodents from entering the cellar.

Advice! If natural ventilation is not enough, to combat excessive moisture, you can install boxes with substances that actively absorb moisture (quicklime, salt).

After the end of the harvest, the residents of private houses and summer cottages face the problem of a place to store their supplies. In a house or garage, the harvested vegetables and fruits will not last long, so some decide to build a cellar with their own hands, where it will be possible to conveniently place the harvested crop, as well as jars of jam and pickles or other stocks prepared for the winter.

The best option would be to purchase a cottage with an already built cellar. But if it is not there, then it will be necessary to hire a team of workers or build it with your own hands. The work is not particularly difficult, and you can do it yourself. The main thing is to equip the cellar in advance, namely before the harvest begins. Otherwise, you can make many mistakes due to haste.

The cellar is a structure buried in the ground, which is intended for storing food all year round.

The cellar can be dug separately from other structures and buildings, or placed under outbuildings or a house. The choice of the type of cellar construction is associated with its location, and the size of the needs of the owners.

First you need to figure out what a good, proper and solid cellar is. It is also necessary to understand what is meant when it comes to the cellar, so as not to confuse it, for example, with a basement and other utility rooms and buildings. To do this, you need to understand the definitions of the following premises:

• a basement is a room that is lower than ground level. It can have many functions. In the basement, you can also place a sauna and a boiler room, an office or a garage. You can also arrange a cellar there.
• a cellar is a basement that is used for some purpose, such as storing food at a certain combination of temperature and humidity.
• technical underground - it is also a basement where communication systems are located: ventilation system wiring, electrical panels, heating boilers etc.

A good cellar requires the following:

• relative humidity within 85-95%;
• low temperature about + 2-5 degrees;
• fresh clean air;
• blackout.

Of course, no one needs to prove the need for a cellar, since even in private homes it is impossible to provide long-term storage of all products prepared for the winter. It is the cellar that will keep food fresh and subject to relative coolness. After all, no refrigerator can accommodate as much as it can fit even in a small cellar. Therefore, it is necessary to build a cellar, like any other building, with high quality, observing all the rules, so that it lasts for many years.

The first step is to determine the place and method of building the cellar. In the general accepted understanding, the cellar is a small hole that is dug in the ground and equipped accordingly. This means that it can be built in a private house, on the street, in a garage or on personal plot. You just need to find the right place for it. If the decision is made to build a cellar on open area, then you need to choose a place higher, since there will be constant dampness in the lowlands. In the place of the cellar, in any case, it is necessary to accurately determine the depth of groundwater, otherwise the cellar can simply be flooded. Based on this condition, and determine the depth. Usually it is not higher than 2 meters. It is also necessary to take into account what the floor will be in the cellar, since this factor largely depends on the composition of the soil.

The time recommended for the construction of the cellar is the summer season, when groundwater is at its lowest point, and also subject to favorable weather. This is important if you plan to build a cellar in an open area. With such construction, special attention is paid to the issue of waterproofing. Water must not penetrate the walls and floor of the structure under any circumstances. In addition, it is extremely uncomfortable to have a constantly wet cellar, since under such conditions the safety of the products located there is called into question.

Exists a large number of types of burials. They are all a bit similar, but differ in their functional tasks. So, there are cellars for storing food, vegetables - a vegetable pit, in the form of separate structures, as well as cellars located in houses - an underground.

Each of them is able to cope with its function well only if it is built, observing all the rules and requirements. The work of building this type of premises is not so easy, but it always pays for itself in the future.

A wide variety of types of cellars differ in the degree of deepening in the ground, in materials used in construction and in their location as follows:

• according to the building materials used, they are stone, brick, wood, earthen, metal and concrete;
• according to the degree of deepening, semi-buried, ground, buried, bulk, cellars on a slope are distinguished;
• according to the location they are freestanding, under the garage, summer kitchen, terrace, under the house and on the balcony.

When choosing the design of a vegetable store, one should take into account the level of groundwater at a given land plot, since the floor level in the cellar should be no less than half a meter higher than the groundwater level, in other words, the GWL. Thus it follows that:

• at the GWL, which is located lower than 2.5 meters from the surface of the earth, it is possible to deepen the walls by 2 meters;
• at GWL closer than 2.5 meters from the surface of the earth, only partial deepening is allowed (semi-underground or semi-buried cellars);
• with a groundwater level of half a meter, the deepening of the structure is impossible, and for such cases it is recommended to build a ground cellar;
• on a waterlogged lowland plot of land, it is required to arrange artificial sand and gravel bedding - artificial pillows, through which the cellar rises, thereby separating it from groundwater.

A cellar on a balcony in an apartment building is quite easy to equip with your own hands. Represents such a cellar wooden box required sizes with a tight cover, inside lined with a heat insulator ( mineral wool or foam). The temperature in the cellar is maintained by means of an incandescent bulb, switched on through a contact thermometer and a relay.

The easiest way is to equip a cellar with your own hands under a house or other building during their construction. This will be less time consuming and will allow you to do the job efficiently and quickly. In this case, the walls of the structure can serve as a foundation, and the roof can serve as the ceiling of the basement. This is often practiced when building garages.

The construction of all types of cellars is carried out according to the classical scheme for the construction of cellars.

This type of storage is convenient in that its construction can be done slowly. At the same time, all dirty job It is carried out on the street, and dirt and dust do not get into the house.

If, due to the close passage of soil, it is not possible to build a buried cellar, then a storehouse is being built, which can perfectly replace a cellar that has many advantages.

The storage shed is a ground structure that can be built on any site, including lowlands. Although, of course, it is desirable to build it in dry areas.

The storage shed does not require recess, although certain such structures are made slightly recessed. For such a cellar, it is necessary to process logs, for example, with bitumen.

It is important that the wood is protected from mold and moisture by a coating. If necessary, waterproofing can be carried out from below.

Labaza is performed in the following order:

1. First of all, they arrange the base of the storehouse.
2. Having completed the foundation, they build the structure itself. It shouldn't be very high. Visually, it looks more like a hut or tent.
3. Processing logs for storage.
4. A crate is installed to protect the cellar.
5. The issue of waterproofing from above is being solved. To do this, lay the roofing material on the roof crate. This material perfectly able to protect the products stored inside.
6. A bunding is made on top of the roof. Peat is used as the material, which is the best type of soil for such purposes.

It is interesting that in general the storehouse can merge with the area. It is enough to plant the soil of the embankment with seeds of grass or other plants, and it will overgrow.

For ventilation in the cellar of this type, there are special boxes in which ventilation can be regulated by means of a valve - a special mechanism. The dimensions for the shed are set individually by each owner. As a rule, on the sides they are no higher than 3.5 meters.

The advantage of semi-buried cellars is that they are less demanding on the ground compared to buried ones. To equip it, it will be enough to dig a pit, in which the depth will be approximately one meter, and in some cases even 70-80 centimeters.

Set it up like this:

1. The base is made of brick or concrete. Slag concrete is less commonly used for such purposes, since it is harmful and is used only after appropriate processing.
2. Particular attention should be paid to the waterproofing of the walls and bottom in the cellar. For this, roofing material, as well as clay and other coating materials, can be used.
3. For a semi-buried cellar, an overlap is required, which is usually made of slab.

Other types of cellars

There are many other types in addition to the three main ones. For example, you can make a standard ground cellar a little different if you make a bunding on top of it with peat. The same applies to buried structures.

In order to put the construction of the cellar under the garage house, it is imperative to conduct soil research so that there are no problems later. Although, given that they were already carried out during the construction of the garage, it will not take much time. Even if research has not been done, the garage owner is somehow relatively aware of how deep the groundwater is. Particular attention should be paid to ventilation in the building. It is usually done through special pipes that serve as channels. Fresh air enters the cellar through one of the pipes, and the exhaust is eliminated with the help of the other. Such a cellar can be made under the house and under any other structure. The main thing is that the foundation is not damaged.

The important thing is that since the cellar under the garage is an underground building, more serious walls and waterproofing are required here. For certain cases, such constructions are also made in wet soils. In this case, the walls are made of cement and covered with a thick layer of insulation material. We should not forget that the soil at the same time needs to be “drying” with sand. This allows you to separate the site at least to some extent from groundwater.

During construction, it is imperative to carry out drainage systems, since moisture will still be present on the site and can penetrate into the cellar structure in the form of precipitation. Therefore, it is necessary drainage system and ditch.

Start of construction of the cellar

Work begins with the fact that the level is determined groundwater, since taking into account this parameter is necessary for the construction of a cellar with your own hands. First of all, the lowest area is located and a well is drilled in it. Its standard depth is 2.5 meters. A pipe is buried in the well done, making sure that there is water in it. If water appears in the pipe, it means that groundwater passes above the optimum value. The most informative observations will be obtained in spring and autumn, since at these times of the year the waters reach their maximum levels.

An important value is the degree of heaving of the soil. This phenomenon occurs due to the fact that wet soil freezes, which thaws in spring, destroying the density of the soil. The soil becomes porous as a result. If the water rises by more than 2.5 meters, the problem is solved by installing a drainage, which is a pipe laid underground. The pipe diverts water into the drainage ditch.

Be sure to provide for a drainage slope, which is 5 centimeters for every 10 meters.

Material selection

When planning the construction of a cellar with your own hands, you should also think about the materials. For them correct selection several factors should be taken into account: the type of soil, which is determined by eye, and the level of groundwater, regarding which it is necessary to consult a garden partnership. Using wood in the construction of the cellar, it is necessary to process the material with the help of antiseptic compounds. Walls can be made from various materials: wood, red brick, concrete, rubble stone or asbestos-cement sheets. The thickness of the vertical partitions made of concrete is approximately 5 centimeters, and at the brick wall the thickness depends on the masonry technology and ranges from 12-25 centimeters. The thickness of the walls made of rubble stone reaches an average of 25 centimeters. If earth is chosen as the material for the construction of the cellar, then it is recommended to pre-sheathe the structure inside with wood. It is not recommended to build a metal cellar, as you may encounter the problem of maintaining the required temperature.

The construction of the cellar should begin by determining a place for it. The best option would be to choose a dry area located on a hill. Since this area is pre-protected from moisture, waterproofing is not required there. Rain and melt water will not accumulate near the walls of the storage, it will flow down the slope, leaving the cellar and the products contained in it dry. The depth of the structure can vary in accordance with the wishes of the owners, and the standard figure is 2.5-3 meters. It is necessary to locate the future structure higher than the level of the upper aquifer, which is recorded in autumn or spring, that is, during its maximum rise.

In addition, you should decide what kind of cellar you want to build: under the house or garage, or a separate building. The option of a cellar erected under any structure is much preferable to a separate building, since such a room does not occupy extra territory. The sloping cellar has a convenient entrance, and this is quite important in winter.

Study of the site for the construction of the cellar

Before self-construction of the cellar, it is necessary to determine at what depth the groundwater occurs. This is especially true when a semi-buried or buried cellar is being built. One method requires a fresh raw egg, a glass cap and a piece of wool. This technique is very old, but, one way or another, quite accurate. It is necessary on the site where it is planned to build a cellar, put a piece of wool, and on top - an egg, covering it all with a cap. The cap should be left overnight, and in the morning look at the result.

It is believed that if dew is contained in wool and an egg, then groundwater lies very close, which means that it is not worth building a buried cellar in such a place. If the egg is dry, and there is dew on the wool, then the waters pass quite far. If both the egg and the wool are dry, then this site is ideal for building a cellar, since there may not be water at all in such a place.

It should be noted that before self-construction of the cellar, it is required to determine what type the soil belongs to. This factor is very important.

There are several types of soil:

• quicksand;
• peat;
• clay;
• loam;
• sandy;
• sandy loam.

Peat is one of the best types of soil for bunding, as it protects food well from spoilage, especially when it comes to potatoes and other vegetables.

Quicksand is a very heaving soil that can cause a lot of inconvenience. It consists of fine-grained sand, loam and sandy loam. As a rule, during construction on such a site, such soil is replaced by adding sand.

Sandy soil is perfect for foundation. Such soil is often used to reduce moisture and heaving.

Stages of building a cellar

Below is step by step description cellar building process. According to the type of cellar construction, certain stages may differ or be completely absent.

As already mentioned, the best time to build a cellar is summer, when groundwater is at its lowest level. This should be done in favorable weather conditions without precipitation so that the pit is not flooded with water. You will have to dig a lot, since the pit for the cellar needs to be deep enough to allow walking into the vault without bending over. The pit should be made in an oblong shape, regardless of what form the cellar was conceived, since a certain place is required for the installation of gentle steps.

Traditional scheme for the cellar

The pit is dug 0.5 meters larger than the size of the structure itself, so that it is convenient to carry out work. It is advisable to dig a hole yourself so as not to damage the natural layer of soil. Overlapping is laid on top of the dug pit. To do this, you can use floor slabs, logs or thick boards. If logs or boards are used, they must be covered with clay putty and chopped straw. When the putty dries, it is necessary to cover it with a layer of earth, having made holes in it in advance and inserting a ventilation pipe.

The general rules for digging a pit are as follows:

• the foundation is deepened at least 0.3 meters from the ground surface;
• the depth of the pit depends on the design of the structure;
• the pit is made wider than the area of ​​​​the cellar under construction;
• to avoid shedding soil from the walls of the excavation pit, they are constructed with formwork or made at a slight slope;
• the top layer of earth will subsequently be needed to decorate the building and embankment, so the earth does not need to be taken out far.

It should be noted that the construction of the floor and foundation precedes the stage when the walls are erected. And therefore, if you build a cellar, putting walls first, and then, making a floor, then this will lead to the fact that the floor will not adhere tightly to the walls, and the storage will be heated from this.

The following options for the floor in the cellar differ - concrete and clay concrete. The latter are warmer and concrete base colder, although much stronger. When choosing a method for flooring, you should focus on the proximity of groundwater. If it runs close to the surface, then it is better to choose a concrete floor.

The sequence of the floor device is as follows:

1. garbage is removed from the pit;
2. the land surface at the bottom of the pit is leveled and compacted;
3. when constructing an adobe floor, the base is laid out with a layer of rubble, which is mixed with clay at least 10-12 centimeters thick. Clay with crushed stone is properly compacted. When the first layer of rubble dries, a second layer of the same thickness is laid, 6-8 centimeters thick. After the floor dries, the resulting cracks are sealed with a lime-clay mortar;
4. when installing a concrete floor, you must first prepare the base. Then the underlying layer is made of gravel or crushed stone. After the base is leveled and compacted. The floor is poured with cement mortar in proportions of 1:5. After 3-4 days, when the solution hardens, the final filling is performed with a more liquid solution to eliminate all flaws.

The walls in the cellar are monolithic of concrete or made of individual parts: brick, stone, wood, concrete, individual blocks of concrete, etc. In some cases, for example, in dense soil, no walls may be installed at all.

Walls of a monolithic type can better resist moisture, and if the walls are made of separate elements, then special attention should be paid to the tightness of the joints of the floor and walls.

You should pay attention to the following:

• if groundwater runs high, then in order to build a buried cellar, it is necessary to make a “concrete bath”. First of all, the floor is poured, then a monolithic wall is placed on it, connecting the floor to the walls with the help of reinforcement. However, due to the construction of such a concrete bath, the cost of construction will double.
• if during the digging of a pit a floater or a swamp is found, then this is negative factor. AT this case the required depth of the wall should be lower than such a "wet spot". It is necessary to support the wall on a solid foundation, otherwise the whole structure may crack at best, and at worst, move. It is better not to build a cellar in such soil at all, as this is quite risky.

The ladder should be wide enough to allow one person to go down to the cellar and go up from there. The minimum width is 35-40 centimeters, and, therefore, a ladder 60 centimeters wide will calmly allow you to do this without the risk of losing balance and without any discomfort. In addition, if it is planned to transfer bulky goods to and from the cellar, then it would be preferable to build a staircase, the width of which will be 80-90 centimeters, and this will make it possible to go down the stairs together.

The slope allowed for the stairs is 75 degrees, then such a staircase will be very steep, and it will not be possible to go down it alone with busy hands or together. For safe and comfortable carrying of household utensils and supplies, the slope of the stairs is limited to 45 degrees.

The height comfortable for the riser, that is, the vertical part of the step, is 15-25 centimeters, for the tread, that is, the horizontal surface -25-35 centimeters. But in the case of the cellar, too much comfort can lead to a reduction in usable storage space, which is already small. Therefore, it is possible that a more compact ladder structure will have to be dispensed with.

Concrete, wood, metal are used as materials for the stairs. Since the cellar is a room with a high degree of humidity, metal stairs should be protected with primer or enamel, and wooden stairs should be impregnated with an antiseptic at least twice.

It is necessary that the overlap correspond to the entire structure of the cellar. Overlapping can be made from the following materials:

• From wood, initially making beams, and then covering them with beams or boards. To prevent decay, all wooden elements are covered with an antiseptic. The ceiling is laid on top with heat-insulating material, for example, clay, and dry earth is poured on top. The thickness of the thermal insulation layer must reach at least 30 centimeters. Wooden floors often need to be replaced and repaired.
• From concrete slabs. With concrete or reinforced concrete floors, special attention is paid to sealing the joints.
• From slate, under which a solid base spreads. The overlapping seams when using slate are sealed with a cement mortar, and the bulk soil is properly compacted.

Cellar waterproofing

A dry cellar is the key to the safety of the crop. It is necessary to protect the vegetable store from seasonal melt and groundwater and precipitation.

Most often, roofing material or bitumen is used for waterproofing purposes. In this case, the standard waterproofing scheme is used. Thus, the outer wall of the underground building is covered with bitumen in two layers, and a layer of roofing material is laid on top. Outside, a drainage layer of gravel and sand is laid. A drainage pipe is laid under the drainage layer to drain water. But bitumen does not have a very long service life, and over time, after 2-3 years, it begins to crack. Therefore, it is recommended to use more modern materials for waterproofing. More modern waterproofing materials include:

• drainage material Enkadrain, produced in two types: drainage-insulating and simply drainage. The thickness of the material is 2 centimeters. It consists of strong and rigid polyester twisted threads, which are fastened at the intersection points. When using the option with drainage-insulating material, a layer of filtering geotextile is also added.
• Today, materials based on bentonite clay are also used as waterproofing. Such materials have a high degree of absorption, as well as a binding capacity. Concrete, when ground moisture gets on it, swells and then hardens, and betonite clay acquires water resistance.
• Polymeric geomembranes, which got its name from the word "geo", which means earth. They are mostly imported. Such material is used in the installation of pressure waterproofing. The material is able to withstand high hydrostatic water pressure on the entire internal volume of the basement or cellar: on the floor from the ground and from the sides to the walls. Geomembranes, unlike bitumen, have a much longer service life. Geomembranes are connected using technical hair dryers.
• Analogues of waterproofing are also presented on the construction market. domestic production, for example, "Hydroplast". You can also use other the latest formulations for waterproofing, such as "VodoStop" and "Gidroplomba" brand "Glims". The material "VodoStop" perfectly seals the floors and internal walls of the cellar, and "Gidrplomboy" seals leaks and cracks.

Thanks to natural ventilation in the cellar, it will be possible to maintain the necessary temperature and humidity conditions in it, saving it from excessive moisture and dampness. For the device in the cellar of natural ventilation, the following work is performed:

1. two ventilation pipes are installed: exhaust and supply;
2. for better air exchange, ventilation pipes are located at two levels, and, if possible, in different places, in order to avoid drawing in fresh air;
3. the exhaust ventilation pipe is located at the top, namely under the very ceiling in the cellar;
4. the supply ventilation pipe is located, on the contrary, at the bottom, namely at a height of 50-6 centimeters from the floor;

Do-it-yourself cellar construction means the protection of its upper part. You can build a gable roof made of boards over the building. It should be larger than the cellar in order to cover the pit on each side by 40-5 centimeters. This can protect the structure of the cellar from water flowing in during rain. It is necessary to insulate the cellar door without fail, for example, with several layers of foam rubber, and then upholster it with oilcloth or leatherette. It is important that the roof prevents the accumulation of precipitation, and the door protects from heat and frost.

Conducting electrical wiring in the cellar

It is customary to carry out insulated external wiring in the cellar. It is necessary to use wiring with copper conductors and double insulation. It is better in this case to seek the help of consultants to find out which wire is suitable for use.

Cellar electricity is an important aspect that ensures the comfort and safety of using the storage room. It is recommended to cover the bulbs with protective caps. Luminaires should be placed in a dry place, using only moisture-proof materials. It would be best if the light bulb is attached to the vestibule, as this is considered the safest. Switches should be placed at the entrance at a height of one and a half meters.

It is forbidden to install sockets in the cellar.

Cellar interior decoration

It is convenient to carry out the interior decoration of the walls to the flooring. Finishing can be different: whitewash, plaster or flat asbestos-cement slate on a wooden crate. The bottom on the concrete layer is covered with roofing material on hot bitumen in two layers with an overlap on the walls up to 30 centimeters. A screed is made along the roofing material and tiles are laid.

Like all food storage facilities, the cellar must be kept clean. A mandatory procedure in the summer season is airing and drying. The storage of flammable substances such as kerosene, gasoline and others is not allowed in the cellar. The reason is not only in fire safety rules, but also in the fact that the pungent odors of kerosene and gasoline are well absorbed by the products in the cellar, and this will render the products unusable.

In the cellar, which is well-equipped, there will be all optimal conditions to store homework. In the middle of summer, many gardeners begin preparations for laying the crop. For these purposes, cellars and other storage facilities are ventilated and dried. But it is not always enough to open a hatch in the cellar and ventilation pipes for thorough drying, since the air in the building is cold and heavy, and because of this, natural draft is not created. For drying, as a rule, a potbelly stove is installed and the walls are heated. There is an easier way to create the traction necessary for drying, namely with the help of an ordinary candle.

It is not difficult to independently build a solid storage on the site if you perform each stage efficiently and responsibly.

Your own cellar. And those who do not have it, probably, have already thought more than once about the construction of such a room. Storage of conservation in the cellar cellar has long been practiced by people. Therefore, in this article we will tell you about how to make a cellar with your own hands without the help of builders.

Cellar Requirements

In order for the cellar (glacier, underground) to function normally for a long time, the following requirements must be applied to it:

• Constantly lowered, stable air temperature. In a glacier, the temperature should be more or less constant throughout the year, whether it's summer outside or winter.
• Blackout. In the basement, frequent lightening is not allowed. Glaciers are not allowed to have windows, and electric lamps can only be turned on when you visit the underground. Some foods that are in your cellar need to be kept in the dark for long-term storage.
• Air humidity. It should be around 90%. This is a very important indicator, if it is very low, there is a risk that some products will be spoiled. A psychrometer is used to control air humidity. With a very low humidity, it must be increased. This is done by splashing water on the walls and scattering wet sawdust on the floor.
• Constantly clean and fresh air. To ensure the ventilation of the cellar, you need to properly design the supply and exhaust ventilation. This is a very important factor that will not allow air to stagnate in the room.

Did you know? « Auerbach cellar» - one of the best wine restaurants in the world, which is located in Germany, Leipzig. The restaurant is slightly lowered underground, has its own wine cellar.

With the proper organization of work during the construction of this room, all of the above requirements can be easily implemented into the cellar mechanism. And then, after construction, you will only need to control the humidity and lighting.

What are the designs

There are more than a dozen different types of cellar designs. Each owner does everything in his own way. But there are long-established types of structures, which we will tell you about:

• Ground storage ( storage shed). This type of construction is suitable for construction in those regions of our country where the soil has high humidity, and groundwater is very close to the surface. It is believed that such a design was invented by summer residents of St. Petersburg, whose conditions do not allow deepening very low. Ground storages go deep into no more than half a meter, and have a frame structure on top.
  
• . This is another type of glacier, which is buried no more than half a meter underground. The design of such a cellar is quite simple and does not take large areas Location on. Such storages are built by people who have a limited amount of finance and a small area. suburban area. In addition, such structures are built by all summer residents, whose site is located in regions with a high level of groundwater.
  
• . The design of such a storage facility is very similar to that of the glacier described above. The only difference is that this structure is constructed with subsequent boning with earth. This is done to maintain the required level of humidity in the room.
  
• Semi-deep cellar. This type of construction is the most common in our country. The depth of such an underground is about one meter, which allows it to be constructed even in moderately moist soils. The walls of such a storage facility are poured with concrete and sealed with waterproofing. The overlap is made of slab, protected by a layer of roofing material or roofing felt.
  
• . Such structures are very well suited for those who have a very modest plot in the country. Storage can be built directly under the summer kitchen, leaving a hatch for entry. Construction robots should be carried out only with experienced people, otherwise there is a risk of a collapse of the summer kitchen.
  
• . Repositories of such structures are extremely rare today. They have already gone down in history, although some can still be observed in individual villages and settlements. The designs of such cellars are very complex, requiring careful and accurate work. To date, there are very few craftsmen left who can build you such a glacier. And, by the way, it has a good temperature regime, constant humidity and excellent ventilation.
  
• This structure has two entrances. It is very convenient to build a blocked glacier for several families, for example, on the border of the sections. So you can build one storage for two: for you and your neighbors. This saves space and money.
  
• Previously, it was very common on the territory of the Yaroslavl province, and therefore received the name "Yaroslavl storage" among the people. The construction is carried out completely underground, and from above they are only covered with a bed or poles. Such a cellar is perfect for long-term storage, and.
  

Important! The cellar is best built in hot summers, when the groundwater level is as deep as possible.

And this is not all types of cellar designs. There are also: a cellar on a slope, a wall glacier, a Finnish glacier, a snowfield, a repository of reinforced concrete rings, a shoulder, a cellar bath, etc. But most of them are designed for the same purpose - storage of vegetables and pickles.

Where is the best place to build

Before starting construction work, it is necessary to clearly and correctly determine the location of the future glacier. You must take into account all the properties of the soil (its composition, etc.), the level of groundwater and the depth of freezing.
Many characteristics will depend on these parameters, including those that we described in the first paragraph. And also - the durability of the structure, which also directly depends not only on the quality of the building, but also on its location.

Try to choose a dry, elevated place or the side of a mountain (small hump). Such terrain will immediately alleviate the further problem of waterproofing. When building an underground storage facility, you need to clearly know at what depth groundwater occurs.

Then you need to build on these data: half of the cellar should be half a meter above the groundwater level. If the groundwater level lies at a depth of 2.5 meters, then the maximum depth of your structure should not exceed two meters.
You can check the water level different ways. The simplest of them: determining the level by the depth of water in a well nearby. If there is no well, then pits or exploratory drilling are very often used.

By the way, the exploratory drilling method immediately checks the composition of the soil. If there is a lot of sand or clay in it, then this indicates that when building a cellar, you will need to strengthen the walls more strongly. Sometimes, when examining the soil, floaters are found. The swimming pools are not amenable to draining; it is impossible to build a cellar in their place.

Did you know? One of the fans of the video game Elder Scrolls made himself a cellar-basement in the style of the above game. The construction cost him $50,000.

It is also very important to find out the type of soil before starting construction work. The selection of materials and the nature of the work performed will depend on this.

The most common soil types are sandy, sandy, loamy and clayey. For exact definition composition, you need to take 100 g of earth and give it to the agrochemical laboratory for examination. But there is a way to accurately determine the type of soil without the help of chemists.
To do this, you need to take some earth and try to roll it into a thread, and then roll it into a thin ring. If the soil does not want to roll into a thread, then you are dealing with a sandy type of soil.

If the soil rolled up into a thread, but the ring does not come out of it, then it is light loam. If the ring comes out, but in some places gives out cracks, this is heavy loam, and if the ring is perfect and without cracks, it is clay-type soil.

Information about the depth of soil freezing is also very important for the future cellar. You cannot remove this data yourself, but you can easily get it from the engineering department of the administration or from the district architect.

Some types of soils with severe freezing can expand by 5-10%, and this can adversely affect your structure and cause mechanical damage to it.
It should be taken into account the fact that at a depth of more than three meters, the soil remains at a constant temperature (4-10 ° C) throughout the year.

Therefore, completely underground types Cellars are best at maintaining a constant temperature. In addition, the depth of freezing is affected by the amount of precipitation in the form of snow: the more snow falls, the less the soil freezes.

We build a cellar with our own hands

In this section, we will tell you about how to build a cellar in the country with your own hands, the instructions will be as detailed and step-by-step as possible.

Necessary materials

As we have said, before starting construction, you must decide on the type and characteristics of the soil. The wetter the soil, the greater the thickness of the walls should be at the future cellar.
We will create walls from concrete and thick reinforcement (10-16 mm in diameter). Also, the walls can be built of red brick.

Important! In a highly damp type of soil, walls from foam or cinder blocks cannot be reduced. Such building materials are able to pass through a certain amount of moisture.

The floor and foundation are poured from concrete, and to create it we need: cement, crushed stone, sand, large stones (if desired, they are used to create stronger concrete), reinforcement and a concrete mixer. We will lower concrete or its components into the pit of the future cellar using a special trough with sides.

To adjust the solidification of an even layer of the foundation and floor, we will use a special level for measuring angles on a plane. We will also need improvised tools: buckets, trowel, gloves, etc.
In order to gradually and layer-by-layer pour concrete walls, we will need to make formwork from boards. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare the boards in advance, which must be pasted over with a film (so that the concrete does not stick to the tree).

As a waterproofing layer, we will use roofing material. We will fasten it to the walls using small rectangular boards (size 40 cm by 5 cm, depending on the width of the sheets of roofing material) and nails, as well as a gas lamp (heated roofing material is perfectly glued to each other).

We will also fill the roof of the cellar with concrete, but we will leave room for the hatch. The hatch can be bought in a specialized store. To fill the roof of the glacier, we need to make a frame and formwork.
For their manufacture you need: moisture-resistant plywood (at least 15 cm thick), strong beams for load-bearing structures(metal, wood or concrete), supporting posts, wooden bars, knitting wire and building fittings.

In addition to all of the above, in the process of work you may also need: a tape measure, a pencil, a hacksaw, a grinder, pliers, goggles, etc.

Step-by-step instruction

To build an underground cellar with your own hands, follow these step-by-step instructions:

1. Dig a pit. Its size will depend on the level of groundwater. If the waters are located below three meters, then the optimal dimensions of the pit will be 2.3 m deep, 2.5 m long and wide. If desired, the dimensions can be adjusted, but do not forget to add 0.5 m around the perimeter and 0.4-0.5 m in depth. This will be needed for concrete and waterproofing layers.
   
2. After you have dug the pit, the bottom needs to be well tamped. Next, lay a gravel cushion (you can also use crushed stone). The thickness of the pillow should be 0.2-0.3 m. The gravel layer must also be tamped and reinforcement laid on top. After that, the floor can be poured with concrete.
   
3. The thickness of the concrete layer of the floor must be at least 20 cm, otherwise there is a risk of mechanical damage due to the mobility of the soil masses (during severe frosts or small earthquakes). After the floor is filled, it must be protected with a waterproofing layer. For this, it is best to use roofing material. It must be laid on the hardened concrete. Usually, the width of the cellar is greater than the width of the roll of roofing material. Therefore, it must be overlapped and the ends glued using a gas lamp for heating. After the waterproofing layer, another layer of concrete 10-15 cm thick must be poured.
   
4. Further, all the walls along the perimeter are upholstered with boards and covered with roofing felt.. The ends of the roofing material plates are heated by a gas lamp, bent and attached to other plates. After the waterproofing layer is ready, you can start building concrete walls.
   
5. To start you need to make the primary formwork and lay out the reinforcing bars. The formwork should be made small, 15-20 cm in height (after the first layer has hardened, the formwork is transferred one step higher). Reinforcing bars must be tied in threes with a special knitting wire. Next, install them vertically along the entire height of the pit. The distance between groups of reinforcing bars should not exceed one meter. And ideally, the more reinforcement, the stronger the structure will come out. Usually, the process of erecting walls can take a week or more, because the pouring occurs gradually, with the constant movement of the formwork up. And the deeper your cellar, the longer you will build walls.
   
6. When the walls are fully erected, you need to proceed to the final stage - production of frame and formwork for the roof, and after - the formation of a concrete roof. But remember one important thing: the walls rise 15-20 cm above ground level.
   
7. Now on the walls you need to place load-bearing beams. Beams from metal or concrete are best suited.
8. Next you need form formwork from waterproof plywood sheets. Formwork is done around the perimeter of the room. The height of the formwork should be 20-30 cm.
   
9. After that you need form a frame of reinforcing wires, which will lie perpendicular to each other, and fastened with knitting wire. It is important that the rods that are laid from below go with their ends to the supporting beams. Also insert two pipes (special ones that are designed for ventilation in the cellar) on opposite edges of the frame.
   
10. Once the reinforcement is laid crosswise, the places of its intersection must be connected with a knitting wire. So the design will be stronger and more durable.
    
11. The next step is to pour the finished frame with concrete.. It is necessary to pour only in one direction, constantly compacting the concrete. When the entire frame is filled, let it harden and throughout next week Water the concrete every day. So it won't crack.
    

Cellar - a mandatory extension in the country or near a private house. In this room, the optimum temperature is maintained all year round for the preservation of vegetables, fruits, preservation and preparations. It is quite possible to build a cellar on your own. To do this, it is necessary to assess the condition of the soil, determine the optimal type of structure, select materials and adhere to the selected technology.

Requirements for the arrangement of the cellar

The best place for harvested conservation and grown crops is the cellar. This room supports natural conditions and temperature regime about +4°С. A favorable microclimate is necessary for the preservation presentation and taste characteristics of fruits and vegetables.

Some people confuse the concepts of cellar and basement. However, they are completely different structures. The basement is located in the basement of the building. The cellar is arranged separately - separately on the plot. The design becomes invisible, or vice versa, acts as a striking element of landscape design.

The practical use of a vegetable store is possible under certain conditions:

• the presence of low temperature - the cellar is built underground or settled in a basement in contact with outer wall at home;
• blackout - windows are excluded in the cellar design;
• constant filling with clean and fresh air due to natural and supply and exhaust ventilation;
• air humidity - about 80-90%.

Choosing the optimal design and materials

Depending on the depth of occurrence, the following types of cellars are distinguished.

Ground facility rises above the surface, the depth of the structure is no more than one meter. In fact, this is a small bin for vegetables. The storehouse can be erected anywhere, even in small lowlands.

Construction of a "garden" shed - optimal solution for waterlogged areas and low-lying areas. A distinctive feature of the ground cellar is the absence of overlap. As a rule, a gable roof is made of boards. Due to this, the terms and the final cost of building a vegetable store are reduced. An additional plus is the ease of building such a cellar with your own hands.

A more spacious ground cellar - outwardly, the building resembles a small house. Earth is poured on top of the floor, covering the floor with a thick layer. The front side with the door remains unprotected. Lawn grass is planted on top of the backfill, decorating the territory and keeping the soil from sprinkling with roots.

Semi-buried cellar- the most demanded type of construction. The design looks like a ground structure, but part of the room (about 1.5 m) is underground. Entrance door in the bins is located below the ground surface, so it is necessary to provide a system for the removal of melt / rainwater. door construction thoroughly insulated.

buried cellar well suited for compact areas. However, its construction is possible only with low groundwater or with the arrangement of thorough drainage and waterproofing. The entrance can be covered with a heat-insulating removable cover or made out with a special cellar - small house with a hatch in the ceiling. The cellar can be used as a utility room for placing gardening tools, various household items or vegetables.

The walls of the cellar are built from different materials: stone, brick, concrete or asbestos-cement sheets. It is not advisable to build a building from metal, since it is difficult to achieve a suitable temperature regime.

When using earth as the main material for walls, the bin is sheathed with wood from the inside. Wooden slats must be dried well, sanded, treated with an antiseptic and dried again.

We make a cellar with our own hands: a video on the selection of materials

How to make a cellar with your own hands: recessed design

Assessment of terrain and soil conditions

The best location of the cellar is a hill, hillock or hill. Groundwater in such cases passes far from the surface of the earth. When placed on a hill, the ingress of rainwater is reduced. In addition, it will turn out to save on waterproofing materials.

Many people prefer to build a cellar next to residential building to get to and take the necessary products faster in the cold season, in the rain, etc.

Before starting construction, it is necessary to find out the type of soil and the possibility of constructing a buried / semi-buried vegetable store. To do this, you need to conduct a small test:

1. Put a piece of natural wool at the place where the bin was erected, and a raw egg on top.
2. Cover the "design" with a jar and leave for one night.
3. Evaluate the result of the experiment:
   • if the wool has dew drops, then groundwater is located nearby;
   • if the egg and wool are dry, then the occurrence of water is deep and you can safely get to work.

Before you build a cellar with your own hands, it is advisable to evaluate the type of soil:

1. Peat is the optimal type for embankment. This soil minimizes food spoilage, which is especially important when storing root crops.
2. Quicksand is a heaving soil that is not suitable for the construction of an "internal" cellar. Such soil contains loam, sand and sandy loam. To be able to build a vegetable store, you will have to replace the soil and add sand.
3. Sandy soil is well suited for arranging the foundation. This natural material is often added to reduce frizziness and reduce moisture content.

Materials and tools

To equip the cellar in the country with your own hands you will need:

• crushed stone and gravel;
• lath sand;
• clay mortar;
• rolls of roofing material;
• brick;
• cement;
• boards for arranging the floor frame;
• concrete grade 100;
• molten bitumen;
• reinforcement grid.

From the tools you should prepare:

• concrete mixer;
• manual rammer;
• shovels;
• screws, screwdriver, nails, hammers;
• welding machine;
• grinder;
• primer;
• brush;
• hacksaw.

Pit preparation

The construction of a buried storage begins with digging a foundation pit. The work is performed in the following sequence:

1. Clear the site of stones, sticks and vegetation.
2. Mark out and dig a hole. The traditional dimensions of the cellar are: length / width - 2.5 m, depth - 2.3 m. For digging a pit, it is better to use the services of an excavator.
3. Level the walls of the pit with a shovel, scraping off excess earth and giving them a flat surface.
4. The depth of the pit depends on the type of equipped cellar. When determining this value, it must be taken into account that the space will be partially occupied by a hatch or entrance, shelving, stairs. In view of this, the pit must be dug with a certain margin.
5. Tamp the bottom of the pit, pour sand and gravel into the pit. The thickness of the sand cushion - 20 cm, gravel - 10 cm.

Arrangement of the base of the floor

Floor screed is best done with clay mortar. To prepare it, you need to combine clay and quartz sand in the proportion of 90%/10%. Dilute with water, bringing to a state of thick sour cream. Pour the gravel with the prepared solution to a thickness of 3-4 cm.

To improve the strength characteristics of the base and provide better insulation against groundwater penetration, it is recommended to additionally strengthen the bin with concrete. Procedure:

1. Prepare a mass of lath sand and concrete in a ratio of 5:1, respectively.
2. Pour the clay base after drying concrete mortar 5 cm thick.
3. Level the surface and leave to dry completely.

Construction and waterproofing of walls

Construction technology brick walls next:

1. To equip the foundation for masonry with a width of 1 brick, a height of about 15 cm.
2. Leave the foundation to dry.
3. Masonry is carried out from the corner of the wall where the doorway is provided.
4. Bricks are placed in a checkerboard pattern.
5. When laying a brick, it is necessary to tap on it with a trowel handle - this will help get rid of excess mortar and improve the adhesion of materials.
6. After the construction of each row, its evenness must be checked with a building level.
7. The working solution is prepared from sand and cement in a ratio of 4:1, respectively.
8. In parallel with the laying, the cracks and the space between the brick and the earthen wall are filled with clay mortar. This technology provides additional waterproofing of the vegetable store.
9. After the erection of all walls, leave the construction for 1 week until the mortar hardens.

Brick walls need waterproofing. For this purpose, hydrostekloizol, roll insulators or bituminous mastic are usually used. The sequence of performing insulation work:

1. Treat all surfaces with a water-repellent compound.
2. Attach sheets of roofing material to the walls - fixing the material is carried out by means of heated bituminous mastic. To ensure high-quality insulation, 2-3 layers are required.
3. Walls plastered with cement.

Floor construction

The arrangement of the floor is a responsible event. The supporting structures must withstand heavy loads. Often the overlap is made from a monolithic block made of concrete and a reinforcing cage. It is important that the roof of the cellar exceeds the size of the room in area, since the walls will act as load-bearing supports.

Work execution algorithm:

1. Install supports on which the wooden formwork will subsequently be based.
2. The formwork must be carefully sealed before pouring so that the solution does not flow out through the cracks.
3. After preparing the formwork, make a concrete slab frame from reinforcement. The spacing of the reinforcing bars is about 25 cm, the height of the frame is up to 30 cm.
4. At large area cellars, it is recommended to double-reinforce the slab.
5. The reinforcement mesh should protrude beyond the cellar wall by 5-10 cm from different sides.
6. The resulting frame is evenly poured with concrete mortar.

After pouring the slab, you need to wait 3-4 weeks. The overlay will completely harden and take its final form.

Ventilation system and electricity supply

Good air exchange important condition the safety of products in the cellar. The lack of normal ventilation will lead to rotting of vegetables, and too fast circulation of air currents will lead to drying out of root crops.

In the technical room, it is preferable to create natural ventilation - it is less expensive, and its proper organization will provide sufficient air exchange. For implementation, you will need to equip the supply and exhaust duct. The exhaust element is located at the top near the ceiling, and the inlet is located on opposite wall at a distance of half a meter from the floor.

The procedure for creating natural ventilation in the cellar with your own hands:

1. Choose an air duct based on 1 sq. m of bin area - 26 sq. see pipes.
2. The pipe is installed from the corner of the room, and its lower end should be located under the ceiling. The air duct passes through the entire room, the roof, towering over truss system half a metre.
3. So that condensate does not collect in the pipeline, it is necessary to carry out thermal insulation of the exhaust pipe according to the sandwich principle. One pipe is installed in another, and the space between them is filled with mineral wool.
4. The open end of the air pipe is located at a distance of 50 cm from the lower floor level. The exhaust duct runs through the ceiling, ending 80 cm above the base.
5. Cover the outer opening of the pipe with a mesh.
6. It is advisable to put valves on the pipes that regulate the air flow.

The cellar is electrified with a double or triple insulated copper cable.

Cellar interior design

At the end of the installation work, you can begin to improve the cellar. There are several design options:

• make the walls with shelving with spacious shelves;
• hang metal shelves;
• set up shelving.

Important! All wood structures must be coated with an insect repellent and protective impregnation against moisture.

Do-it-yourself ground cellar: step by step instructions

In the country, you can equip a simple cellar with your own hands with high level ground water. Inside the bin is able to maintain an air temperature of 2-3 ° C. Let's analyze an example of building a vegetable store by the type of storage shed, which has dimensions:

• height in the center of the structure - 2 m;
• width - 3.3 m, length - 3 m;
• passage width - 0.6 m.

Sequence of work:

1. Coat the logs resting on the soil with hot bituminous mastic.
2. The ceiling is made of boards, and the elements of the crate are made of hewn slab, obapol, clay straw, pine trimmings from the sawmill.
3. Roof overhangs should rest on the ground. Such an installation provides additional thermal insulation in the form of snowdrifts in the cold season. As a result, a structure is formed, like a tent.
4. On the one hand, the storage shed is sewn up with two rows of boards, between which a heater is laid. At the other end there is an insulated door.
5. Dig a drainage trench from the outer part of the lobaz along the entire perimeter, preventing the ingress of natural waters.
6. Make a hood near the ridge - wooden box with adjustment plate.

Do-it-yourself cellar construction: video

The cellar is small room underground on the territory of a private house, which is used to store various food products. Its main advantage is that it does not take usable space on the territory of the site and due to underground placement, a low temperature will be constantly observed in the cellar. Small problems can only arise due to high humidity, but it can also be controlled by providing an underground room with a simple ventilation system.

The cellar can be installed at the stage of construction of the house, and already in the finished building in one of the rooms. The technology for building a cellar in both cases will not differ much, but when digging a cellar in a separate room, you will have to tinker a bit with transporting the dug earth from the house to the street.

Yes, this is quite real, because the basement does not differ much from the cellar. Both rooms are most often used to store any items: a cellar for food, a cellar for tools and unnecessary items. this moment of things. The main differences between them are that the basement must have a sufficiently warm positive temperature and a minimum amount of humidity so that the tools do not start to corrode. In the cellar, on the contrary, it is necessary to maintain a cool temperature just above zero and high humidity.

The cellar can be made, as well as from the entire basement, or by allocating it for the cellar small plot. To remake the basement, it is necessary to turn off the heating system, equip the room with a ventilation system, and finish the walls with heat-insulating material to keep the temperature low. To convert a small part of the basement into a cellar, it is necessary to carry out all the operations described above on the territory of this site and separate it with a wooden partition from the main basement.

Preparing to build a cellar with your own hands

Before starting work, it is worth deciding whether it is even possible to dig a cellar on the site. When deciding to dig a cellar, it is worth deciding on two main things:

1. Soil type. If the site is in rocky terrain, then it will be almost impossible to dig a cellar, or the cost of it will cost a huge amount of money.
2. Location of groundwater. Without taking into account this feature, it is likely that even the cellar with the most the best system waterproofing over time will be flooded with water.

Of course, it is much more convenient to find out the level of groundwater with the help of a geodetic survey of the area even at the stage of building a house in order to determine the feasibility of digging a cellar. But if you have to install an underground room in an already finished house, then you need to determine the level of groundwater with your own hands.

• Find out the water level in nearby wells
• Make a well 2-2.5 meters deep, and after 2 days check if there is water in it

If, after checking, it turned out that the water level is only one meter below the water level, then the idea of ​​\u200b\u200bbuilding a cellar will have to be abandoned, since the cellar must be at least one and a half meters underground so that the temperature in it remains at a consistently low level. Optimum in terms of comfort and temperature (5 ° C), the cellar should be at least 2 meters in height.

The area of ​​​​the cellar should be at least 5 square meters, so that there is not only freedom of movement, but it is also possible to arrange racks for storing food and separate containers for storing vegetables. Also, do not forget that digging a pit should be half a meter in height and width more than the required dimensions, this space will be used for additional finishing of the floor and walls with heat and waterproofing.

Before starting work, it is important to consider correct location the cellar itself, since it should not be close to the walls of the house, which will lead to deformation of the foundation and subsequent destruction of the house. However, buildings built using pile foundation technology are deprived of such a drawback.

Choosing a material

When choosing a material for the construction of a cellar, special attention should be paid to its following properties:

• Strength and durability. It must have high bearing capacity so that for decades it can hold on itself not only the mass of the house, but also the possible pressure of underground soil
• Moisture protection. Since the cellar will always circulate wet air, then it is important that Construction Materials did not collapse under the influence of dampness. Also, the possible impact of groundwater increases necessary requirements to moisture resistance of materials

Most best materials for the construction of the cellar:

There are two most commonly used options: a vertical hatch and descending the steps through the door. The first option is much cheaper and does not require additional space for a stepped descent, but in terms of operation it is much less comfortable and safe.

Construction works

When the preparation and planning process has come to an end, then proceed to construction work, which are divided into several stages:

• Floor in the cellar
• Finishing

Most often, this is the least difficult stage, since specialized equipment can be used, but if the cellar is created in one of the rooms of the house, then there can be no question of any technique. We have to carry out all earthworks on our own, which will be further complicated by the forced transportation of the dug earth through the building of the house to the street.

When digging in depth, it will not be superfluous to strengthen the walls of the pit with selections so that the earth does not crumble from them during work.

Floor in the cellar

Today, the most popular coating is considered to be a concrete floor. Of course, you can save money and not equip the cover in the cellar at all and stop on the field from the ground, but it is not recommended to use it for a number of reasons:

• Through the soil in the cellar will be able to get great amount various pests, ranging from insects to large rodents
• The ground floor is not protected from groundwater
• Harmful anaerobic bacteria can grow underground

The first step is to level the floor of the pit and fill it with a sand cushion and crushed stone to a height of 20-30 cm. The main thing is that the cushion is securely compacted, solid and even without height differences, then it will ensure high reliability of the concrete floor without its possible deformations in the future. We lay a waterproofing material on top of the pillow, which will not only protect the concrete from the effects of underwater water, but also greater strength due to the fact that the concrete mixture will not go into the lower layers of the floor.

After waterproofing, a reinforcing mesh is laid out, which ensures the solidity of the concrete floor. It is important that the reinforcement is at least 5 mm in diameter, tightly connected to the wall and resting on small supports at a height of 3 cm from the waterproofing material. You can start pouring concrete on the floor, then leave it to dry for 7 days, and in order for the floor to grab as much as possible, you will have to wait at least 3 more weeks.

Most often, cellars prefer walls made of bricks, concrete blocks or monolithic concrete. Although with the help of red brick masonry the wall looks visually more attractive, but the most rational material in terms of price and performance properties is pouring with monolithic concrete.

The reinforced concrete structure is installed according to the following order:

1. In the beginning, it is necessary to install a reinforced mesh near the walls, the rods of which must be at least 1 cm in diameter. For greater strength of the wall, you can also put iron pipe cuttings or any other metal waste material into it.
2. We expose the formwork. The arrangement of the walls in the cellar does not require pouring it all at once, on the contrary, it is necessary to fill it layer by layer, tamping it down and letting it dry. That is why in order to build a formwork, a minimum of boards is required, because they can simply be rearranged higher and higher with a rise in the level of the formwork, and so on until the overlap
3. For pouring, it is recommended to use M200 concrete, and also add waterproofing additives to the solution. The walls are completely dry only after a few weeks.

The construction of the ceiling in the cellar is necessary for the most part to maintain a low temperature inside the room, which is provided using a layer thermal insulation material.

To install the ceiling, it is necessary to fasten a wooden shield to the supporting beams of the cellar, which should be densely filled with heat-insulating materials (this can be glass wool or foam plastic). To maintain a stable temperature of about 5 ° C in the cellar, the layer of heat-insulating material must be at least 10 cm, and waterproofing material is placed on top of it (it can even be the most ordinary polyethylene), which is nailed to the boards with a stapler.

Finishing

At this stage, all the necessary shelving, lighting, stairs and hatch are installed. All wooden elements inside the cellar must be treated with antiseptic agents so that they do not deteriorate under the influence of moisture. Also, do not forget that for greater ease of climbing, the stairs must be placed at an angle, and the steps should be made 20 cm wide.

A ventilation system is necessary in an underground room to keep the air fresh, as vegetables release water vapor during storage, and an excessive amount of dampness will destroy the cellar from the inside.

It is not difficult to create a working ventilation system in the cellar: you only need two pipes leading from the cellar to the street: one is located near the ceiling, the other is slightly above the floor level. It will not be superfluous to equip the ends of the pipe with protection against rodents.

conclusions

The construction of the cellar - it will be perfect solution for every owner of a private house, especially for those who have a summer house and their own personal plot with vegetables and fruits. With a cellar, you no longer need to worry about looking for a place to store food.